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A Bustle & Sew Publication Copyright Š Bustle & Sew Limited 2017 The right of Helen Dickson to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser. Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.
First published 2017 by: Bustle & Sew The Cottage Oakhill Radstock BA3 5HT UK www.bustleandsew.com
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Hello, and welcome to the latest collection of Bustle & Sew patterns - a collection of fresh and uncluttered designs that use both hand embroidery and applique techniques. There are projects to suit all ability levels and I’ve also included chapters on machine applique and embroidering fur that I hope you’ll enjoy as well. I have been sewing all my life, whilst Bustle & Sew is now nearly nine years old, and over that time whilst fashions and trends have come and gone my love of stitching has remained constant throughout though the patterns I create have definitely changed over the years. I love the fresh, clean look of modern design trends, and I do hope you’ll enjoy making the projects from this book as much as I have enjoyed collecting them all together Happy stitching!
Helen x
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Contents Applique Made Easy
Page 6
Adorable Alpaca Hoop
Page 29
Trio of Cactus Cushions
Page 11
Two Mugs with Succulents
Page 32
Chic Pompom Cushions
Page 14
Bear in a Hat
Page 35
Wilderness Bear
Page 17
Rosie’s Houseplants
Page 40
Cactus Pin Board
Page 21
Stay Home Pennant
Page 45
Applique Leaf Cushion
Page 25
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Applique made Easy!
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Each month in the Bustle & Sew Magazine I try to include projects using a variety of techniques - including different kinds of applique - most usually freestyle machine and also hand finished (though not turned edge - sadly I don’t really have the patience for this, enjoying the quick results that other techniques can give me). Freestyle machine applique in particular gives great results in a remarkably short period of time - perfect if you’re working to a deadline or if you’re making lots of handmade items for gifts this Christmas. I know many people are a bit nervous of trying this technique, I was most definitely among them, but now I love working in this way and view my sewing machine in a whole new light as means of creative expression, not simply a method of joining pieces of fabric together. Over past issues of the magazine we’ve featured some very talented makers in our “Meet the Maker” who take this technique to amazing heights but you don’t have to be an expert to achieve really nice results. And even nicer, you don’t need any expensive equipment for this technique as you’ll almost certainly have everything you need already. You’ll need your sewing machine of course, but it doesn’t need to be an expensive complicated model. Indeed, this is one instance where simpler is better as you’ll only need to use the basic straight stitch option. You will
however need an embroidery or darning foot for your machine. This holds the fabric in place for each stitch whilst allowing you to move your work in all directions so you can “draw” with your sewing machine needle. I’ll come back to machine applique later on, but for now I thought it would be good to begin with some more general hints and tips that apply to both machine and hand embroidery. Before beginning your project it’s important to take time to look at the design carefully and work out how the pieces fit together, where they overlap, and where it would be best to begin building up your design. Where pieces overlap you will need to cut extra on the bottom piece to avoid any gaps appearing in your finished work. Once you’re clear in your mind about the process of building your design then it’s time to choose your fabrics and then begin tracing your shapes. If you become really enthusiastic about applique you’ll find yourself hoarding even the smallest scraps of fabric in case they come in useful for one of your creations. Almost all sorts of fabrics work well, including scraps from previous projects, old clothes or treasures from thrift or charity shops. I prefer working with natural fibres as you can be sure they won’t melt when you fuse your shapes to the background if you’re using Bondaweb. (Be sure to test first if you’re in any doubt).
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Fabrics with a small print are great for more detailed elements, whilst you can choose parts of large swirly designs to add visual interest to large shapes that might otherwise be a bit boring. Do avoid very heavy or thick fabrics though as they may be difficult to stitch and will also add unwanted bulk to your design if you have a number of layers. You should also avoid stretchy fabrics as well as those with a very loose weave as they will fray and distort - remember you’re not finishing the edges in either of these techniques. Quilting weight cotton is a great choice, and felt works extremely well too. Have a rummage around the bargain bins at your fabric shop for nice remnants as many designs will use only very small amount of each print. Choose a medium weight fabric for the background as it’s going to need to support a lot of stitching. It should be either plain or discreetly patterned - if the pattern is too bold then your applique will simply “disappear” into the background. It must be non-stretchy and natural fibres are nicest to work with. Consider furnishing fabrics, cotton twills and ducks. If your project is going to need washing, then be sure to wash everything before you begin to avoid spoiling your work through unexpected shrinkage. Iron all your fabrics before beginning to work.
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Cactus Pin Board This is a really simple hack of a cheap cork pinboard, easily available from shops and online - I purchased mine from UK supermarket Tesco. It was a boring brown square when I brought it home, but a lick of white chalk paint and some cheerful applique have transformed it from a bit of an eyesore into an attractive board that I’ll love having on my kitchen wall to keep all those cards, telephone numbers and other useful pits and pieces that have a tendency to wander if not securely pinned down! Board measures 40 cm (16” square) ● White chalk paint or emulsion
Materials
● Embroidery foot for your sewing machine
● 40 cm (16”) square cork pin board (another size would be fine as long as there is room for your applique!)
● Bondaweb
● 14” x 12” white felt (this will be the base for your applique cactuses)
● Temporary fabric marker pen
● PVA glue
● Glue gun - for attaching hanging loop if desired.
● Variety of green fabrics and felts for the cactuses ● Small scraps of pale pink felt for the flowers ● Black stranded cotton embroidery floss ● 10” twine (for hanging loop - this is optional)
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Adorable Alpaca Hoop A long time ago now I was lucky enough to be able to visit the beautiful Andes Mountains in Peru and, as well as Machu Picchu (of course!) saw lots of small mountain villages - and herds of alpacas too! The memory of this experience will remain with me forever, and so I particularly enjoyed creating this little alpaca hoop. The applique is very simple, and the embroidery isn’t particularly difficult either. I completed my alpaca in just one evening. Shown mounted in 8” hoop.
● Bondaweb
Materials ● 10” square background fabric (I used a dusty pink linen blend) ● 7” x 6” cream or white felt ● Small scraps pale brown felt ● 2 ½” x 2” printed cotton fabric ● Stranded cotton floss in cream, pale brown, black and a selection of colours that work well with your printed cotton fabric.
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● Temporary fabric marker pen ● 8” embroidery hoop
● I have randomly scattered black stars around the mugs - their positioning is up to you they are simply 5 stitches radiating from a centre point.
Stitching Notes: ● Use two strands of floss throughout except where otherwise stated..
● The “soil” in which the succulents are growing is French knots. The stripy mug is all brown, but the heart mug has a mixture of colours. Work knots with different numbers of twists so they look more random.
● Work the leaves of both succulents in a selection of green flosses - choose a good mixture of shades and alter the angle of stitching on each leaf so they reflect the light differently.
● You may find a long needle useful for the basket weave stitch. Work the diamonds on the stripy mug picture before outlining them with pink chain stitch. The chain stitch is worked in a SINGLE strand of floss.
● The main body of each mug is ecru satin stitch. The stitches will be longer than perhaps you might use normally, but this is OK as the pictures are for display only. If you plan to work this design on an item for use then you might wish to consider another type of fill stitch.
● When you’ve finished stitching press well and mount on the blocks. Turn the fabric to the back and secure with your staple gun pulling it tight but not taut and being careful not to distort the design. Work from the middle of each side outwards and mitre the corners, trimming away the excess fabric.
● The mugs and the top of the fabric are outlined in black back stitch. Work this at the end of the project.
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How to Embroider Fur: Bear in a Hat Hand Embroidery Project 35
Basket Weave Stitch ● With two strands of floss begin on one of the end squares and first work your vertical stitches. They should not be placed too closely together as this will make it (a) difficult to weave your needle in and out and (b) won’t leave much space for your horizontal stitches to show and you’ll lose the nice chequered effect of working with two colours.
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Stay Home Pennant March, as the saying goes, often comes in like a lion and goes out like a lamb or should that be the other way round? Anyway, whatever the weather, if you’re a bit of a home bird like me, or know somebody who is, then you’re sure to love this embroidered pennant that makes a great alternative to displaying your work in a hoop. Finished pennant is 7 ½” wide x 12” long (approx) and features a fairly simply floral design as well as the motto boldly worked in black floss.
● 14” white cord for hanging
Materials
● Temporary fabric marker pen
● 14” x 8” main fabric. I used a nice medium weight linen as I love the slightly open texture. ● 12” x 8” backing fabric or felt - I used a wool blend felt as I thought it made my pennant a little more substantial - simply because the linen I chose has quite an open weave. ● 9” length of ½” wooden dowling
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● DMC stranded cotton floss in colours 310, 552, 743, 747, 792, 967, 988, 3041, 3340, 3705, 3712, 3816, 3862
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