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A Bustle & Sew Publication Copyright Š Bustle & Sew Limited 2017 The right of Helen Dickson to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser. Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.
First published 2017 by: Bustle & Sew The Cottage Oakhill Radstock BA3 5HT UK www.bustleandsew.com
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Welcome to the September Issue I hope you have a lovely month, and do look out for the October Magazine which will be published on Thursday 28 September Have a lovely month!
Helen xx
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Tips for Stitchers When choosing the right needle for your work, an easy rule of thumb is that the thickness of your needle should match the thickness of your thread. If you’re using stranded embroidery floss, then this can be split. The number of strands of floss you use will depend upon the fineness and detail of the stitching in your project. When you’re deciding how many strands of floss you need (if your pattern doesn’t tell you) then a simple rule is never to use a thread which is thinner than the thread of the material – it will look insignificant and puny against the background. My mum taught me this simple rule of thumb and it works in 99% of cases – the exception being if you’re working very fine detail in a small area of your work.
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60 Between this month’s covers … Tips for Stitchers
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Lovely Idea: Pumpkin Decoration
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September Almanac
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Christmas Bear
Page 36
Bloom & Grow Hoop
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Poetry Corner: September Song
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Michaelmas Daisies: Stars of the Season
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The Countryside in September
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Meet the Maker: Leigh Bowser
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Instagram Inspiration
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A (very) Little Guide to Fabric Types
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Flowers for Next Summer
Page 42
When Day Equals Night
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Some Things Never Change
Page 44
Festive Friends Advent Calendar
Page 16
Floral Whale Door Sign
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The Darker Side of Stitching
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A (very) Little Guide to Sewing Machine Needles
Lovely Idea: Pebble Succulents
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A Little Look at Smocks and Smocking
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Meet the Maker: Jane Carkill
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Country Diary
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Country Diary
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Four Painterly Feathers
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Pompom Book Marks
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Tastes of the Season: Blackberries
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Home Comforts
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Rosie’s Recipes: Harvest Home
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In the Kitchen: Conversion Tables
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Tastes of the Season: Marrows
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Templates
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Michaelmas Daisies: Stars of the Season Michaelmas Daisies are named for the Festival of St Michael the Archangel, or Michaelmas that falls on 29 September. These cheerful, star-shaped flowers with purple, white or pink petals and bronze-yellow centres provide valuable autumn colour in the garden from September right through until the beginning of the winter months. Gardeners know them as asters, from astrum, the Latin word for “star”. They arrived in Britain from their native North America in the 1600’s and today are firm favourites across the country. There are dozens of varieities, both single and double, ranging in height from 12” to 70” (over a metre) tall. They are great to pick and bring indoors too, lasting well in water to create a colourful seasonal display in your home.
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Meet Leigh Bowser, a talented embroiderer from the north of England Hi Leigh I really love your embroidery designs, the way you picture all those different animals is simply amazing and your text patches too, thanks so much for agreeing to chat to us! I’ve lots of questions for you, so let’s begin ‌.
Where in the world are you? I'm based in Leeds, UK. I'm from the North East but moved here after attending University in Huddersfield. Leeds is an amazingly creative city and I feel very fortunate to live somewhere that has both the buzz of a city, but is still has beautiful country surroundings. I live in a small flat with my partner Andy and cat Maple. I work from a desk in the corner of my living room - I don't have a dedicated studio but I have everything I need and Maple is a great co-worker (although she
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does hide my threads sometimes!)
Meet the Maker
texture is what makes me happiest.
How did you first start And how did your sewing? business come about? I started sewing as a kid when my mam taught me. I was always creative and making things with my twin sister - papier mache, plastercine, painting, making collages etc. Something about using a sewing machine just stuck. I really started learning how to use it as a tool for my art when I went to college and was introduced to free hand machine embroidery - I love the speed of the machine but the freedom of being able to draw in my own style. I often get asked what type of sewing machine I use - it's just a standard domestic Bernina. There are some amazing digital machines out there, but they're just not for me. I love to create everything by hand through my machine because the process of placing each stitch and creating
I always knew I wanted to somehow make a living from doing what I love - essentially painting with my sewing machine. I always thought I'd have to do this through becoming an illustrator and create artworks for other people, but one evening it just came to me that I should start selling embroidered brooches of the things I like to stitch - at that point it was mostly people and icons from TV/art/film. I used free social media to promote myself and slowly built up a customer base. One day I was asked if I could create a pet portrait and I thought I'd give it ago, not sure if I actually could. That's when I realised this was absolutely what I was meant to do!
A (very) Little Guide to Fabric Types Fabrics can be made from different types of fibres, both man made and natural which gives them their properties and determines how they will behave. Fabrics can be woven (the most common type think of quilting cottons, linens and more besides), non-woven - such as felt and knitted too - all of which will affect their weight, stretchiness and how they behave generally.
such as acrylic and polyester come from petroleum oil.
These are formed from two groups of threads at right angles to each other - the lengthwise warp and the widthwise weft.
can be easily divided into those of animal and plant origin. Animal derived fibres include wool, silk, alpaca and cashmere. These are wrinkle resistant and breathable too.
These are fray-resistant, won’t stretch and can easily be cut to any shape you require (which makes them great for children and beginner stitchers). They include fabrics such as felt and fleece which are created by working together woollen fibres.
There are three kinds of plant based fibres extracted from three different parts of the plant - its fruit, stems or leaves. Think of cotton and linen, coconut, jute, hemp and bamboo.
These fabrics are formed by threads that are looped around each other giving the fabric its stretch and elasticity. Double knit fabric is two of these layers combined in a single fabric giving it more thickness and strength but less elasticity. Knit fabrics are almost crease free and are very comfortable to wear.
fibres also fall into different categories. Some are “regenerated natural polymers� such as rayon and viscose are extracted from plant materials such as wood pulp. Synthetic polymers
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When Day equals Night …. September brings a moment of harmony - a time of perfect balance when day and night are of equal length - the time of the Autumnal Equinox. This moment marks the transition between summer and autumn, the time when the new season begins as we move inexorably towards the darker days and longer nights of the winter months ahead. This year the equinox falls on Friday 22 September, when the sun passes over the equator from north to south. In the summer the tilt of the earth’s axis brings the northern hemisphere closer to the sun, which makes the sun’s heat more intense and the days longer. Then as autumn progresses, the North Pole gradually begins to point away from the sun, which day on day rises ever lower in the sky. This makes the days shorter, temperatures begin to fall and autumn has arrived.
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The Darker Side of Stitching ….. It’s not Halloween till next month, but I thought we might need time to prepare ourselves as we consider - the darker side of stitching. And no, I don’t mean the back of your work haha! Sit down before you read the following sentence. Now … are you ready? OK take a deep breath and read ….
There will be times when you must accept you will have to unpick your work. Yes, this happens to all stitchers. It is not good. It is not fun. But sometimes it is necessary, particularly if the project you are working on is entirely your own design.
If you’ve planned it, drawn it out, chosen your own colour scheme and stitch patterns, then it would be a total miracle if everything went perfectly first time. But don’t be put off – if you believe in what you’re doing then it will all come right in the end. The important thing to remember is that it is not the end. It is not disaster and you can retrieve your project. In fact for me, that’s one of the wonderful things about working with fibre and fabric, any mistake is totally retrievable. The important thing when unpicking your work is to take your time! To unpick machine stitching a seam ripper is best (though do be very careful not to poke a hole in your fabric) and for hand stitching use very sharp scissors. Whatever you do don’t be tempted to pull on the thread (possibly in a bit of
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a temper - who me? Never!) As this can distort or even tear your fabric. Then, when even the tiniest, fluffiest bits of thread have been removed, if your fabric is suitable, press with a steam iron which will help close the holes. Just work through those times when nothing goes right, and you find yourself unpicking again and again, and you’ll be rewarded with the thrill of seeing your very own ideas work out according to plan, the delight of seeing your creation grow and its various come together as a harmonious whole. It’s so satisfying to make something completely unique to you – in this age of mass production, a handmade, one-off, piece is very precious both to you, the maker, and any lucky recipient.
strip of green felt on top and joined the two using three strands of golden yellow floss and simple running stitch.
● “Dress” bear in jumper. Turn the raw edges at neck, bottom edge and sleeves under and stitch in place using red thread.
● Tuck the ends of the antlers behind the headband and stitch everything in place.
● I cut a simple Christmas tree shape and appliqued it to the front of my bear’s jumper as a decorative extra as my fabric was quite plain.
● Now make his jumper. Cut two shapes (1 reversed) and join along sides and shoulders using a machine zigzag stitch, or a serger if you have one.
● FINISHED
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Autumn Leaves The falling leaves drift by my window The falling leaves of red and gold I see your lips the summer kisses The sunburned hands I used to hold Since you went away the days grow long And soon I'll hear old winter's song But I miss you most of all my darling When autumn leaves start to fall Since you went away the days grow long And soon I'll hear old winter's song But I miss you most of all my darling When autumn leaves start to fall I miss you most of all my darling When autumn leaves start to fall
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● Machine topstitch all the way around the bookmark as close as possible to the edge of the backing felt (3). Press.
● Find a good book, insert bookmark and enjoy! ● FINISHED!!
● Attach pompom to bottom point of bookmark. You can stitch in place or use your glue gun.
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Home Comforts Beeswax is the purest and most natural of all candle waxes (including vegetable waxes), with the least amount of processing and no additives. Beeswax candles burn cleanly and emit a delicious fragrance of warm honey. Homemade beeswax candles take just minutes to make and are a fun project to do with nimble fingered children. Purchase sheets of beeswax and a roll of appropriate wick from a candle maker’s suppliers (you’ll be spoiled for choice online) wicks are sold to match the finished diameter of the candle. To achieve the best results work in a warm room and/or gently warm the beeswax sheets with a hairdryer before you begin. Then place a length of wick at the edge of one of the sheets and simply roll it up tightly. Press the final edge firmly against the candle to prevent it from unrolling. Trim the wick to ½” before lighting.
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