Bustle & Sew Magazine November 2025 Sampler

Page 1


A Bustle & Sew Publication

Copyright © Bustle & Sew Limited 2025

The right of Helen Grimes to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.

Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.

First published 2025 by: Bustle & Sew Station House West Cranmore Shepton Mallet BA4 4QP

www.bustleandsew.com

WelcometotheNovemberMagazine

Novemberis,forme,amonthofpromiseandanticipation. ThoughHalloweenisbehindusnow, hereinEnglandwehaveBonfireNightahead,whilstacrosstheAtlanticitwillsoonbetimeto celebrateThanksgiving.Then,ofcourse,comesChristmas! Inthismonth’sissueweask“Are youChristmasReady?”andofferafewtipstohelpprepareforthefestivitiestocome. Thereare fivefestivepatternstostitch-Ican’tdecidewhichone’smyfavourite,thoughIdolikethelittle toadstooldecorations-agreatexampleofusingyourstitchingskillstocreatesomethingpretty outof(almost)nothing!

WealsolookatthelifeofMaryJNewill,whoseembroideries,thoughshelivedacenturyago, arestrikinglymoderninappearance. ThenIattempttodemystifysewingmachineneedles, indulgeintoffeemakingforBonfireNightandmuchmorebesides.

Idohopeyou’llenjoythisissueandtheDecembereditionwillbepublishedonThursday27 November,infourweekstime. Untilthen…

Verybestwishes

Helen xx

As the earth continues its orbit the northern hemisphere tips further away from the sun, our nights lengthen and turn colder and frosts become increasingly likely. So, whilst many November nights can be foggy, others are crystal clear, the stars shine brightly and the air is crisp with the first taste of frost.

Mornings can be magical as the frost and fog combine to cast a spell across the valleys as all colour seems to have drained from the land. Then, later in the day the sun, low in the sky now, will burn off the remnants of the night and return the richness of the remaining autumn foliage to the lanes and hedgerows.

The pre-Christian Celtic year began on the first of this month with the festival of Samhain, one of the four major celebrations marking the passing of the seasons for the

November

Celts. (The others were Imbolc, Beltane and Lughnasadh.) Samhain was regarded as the beginning of winter and was the time that animals were brought in from the pastures to their winter quarters. This was considered to be a time when the spirits of the dead could return to the earth as the veil between the worlds was especially thin.

The early Christians in ancient Rome were persecuted and often killed, but there was no organised campaign against them until Decius, emperor of Rome (249151) issued a decree requiring Christians to carry out a public act of sacrifice to prove their loyalty to the Roman Empire. Refusal was punished by imprisonment, torture and execution. So many refused, and were martyred that it became impossible to remember them all. The Christian church therefore

adopted a common day for all; the Feast of All Saints or All Saints’ Day. This originally fell on 13 May but was later moved to 1 November by Pope Gregory III in the eighth century. It then coincided, deliberately perhaps, with the Celtic celebration of Samhain, the earlier celebration of the dead, of lost relatives and friends.

Much more recently established is Remembrance Sunday which is observed on the closest Sunday to the eleventh - the anniversary of the signing of the Armistice at the end of the First World War. Originally intended to commemorate those who died during the two World Wars, it’s now the day when we remember all those who have died serving their countries in times of conflict.

ItwasNovember…themonthofcrimsonsunsets,partingbirds, deep,sadsongsofthesea,andpassionatewind-songsinthepines. Anneroamedthroughthepinelandvalleysintheparkand,asshe said,letthatgreatsweepingwindblowthefogsoutofhersoul.

TheLastDaysofAutumn

FromNovemberuntilearlyMarchthevalleyisa fairygardenoffloweringmosses. Uponthebanksof theboggystream,creepinguptheslopesandabout thetreeroots,thesoftspreadingcushionsofgreen arepowderedwithfawnandrustandyellow. The prevailingshadeisasoftrustyred,andfromthisI havenamedit“RedMossValley.”

Inthesmallpoolsinthebog,whereencircling rusheshaveheldthesphagnumatbay,sudden splashesandbubblingstellofshydenizensofthe place,disappearingbeforethesoundofahuman footstep. Nowandagainawater ratmaybeseen,oranewt, slippingdownintothewater,its orangeunder-surfaceupmost.

Eventhecommonnewt,tobe foundineverypool,ismost uncommonlyinteresting. Shapedsomethinglikethelizard, hiscolouringisfarmore attractive. Hisbackandsidesare agreyishbrown,hisunderside orange,splashedwithbrown.

Likethelargerandmoreshowy greatwaternewt,themalegrows acrestinspring,andacrested newtinaclumpofkingcupsisas wonderfulinasmallerwayasa tigerinatropicalforest.

Thenewtassprungstraightfrom thesoil,orratherfromthepeaty water. Hetakescaretobeseen seldom,but,whenseen,his presenceraisesnowonder.

ThriftyStitching

Sewing is a very flexible kind of hobby in terms of cost I have always thought - you can go mad and purchase the most expensive brand-new fabric and threads, or you can take a creative look at items you may already have in your home and be a clever shopper too…..

One of the easiest ways to sew on a budget is to take a look at the scraps remaining from previous projects. If you’re anything like me then you’re sure to have lots of scraps, as I personally find it really hard to discard even the smallest pieces of pretty fabric. So why not consider making something from them? I have an ambition to one day make a postage stamp quilt, or they’re great for applique, or to incorporate into smaller items such as bookmarks, pin cushions etc.

It’s also possible to make lovely new items from old pieces you may have stashed in your linen cupboard, attic or elsewhere in the home. Old woollen blankets are great for stitching cuddly softies- or if youhave enough of them, cut away any worn pieces and use the remnants to make a warm and comforting patchwork throw. Curtains can also be cut up and reused - Flora below was made

from curtain fabric, whilst old woollen knitwear can be washed at a hot temperature so that it felts, and again is great to use for all kinds of projects.

And, thinking of old clothes, if they’re simply too threadbare to repurpose or reuse in new projects, then before you throw them away, take a good look at them first. Remove buttons and zippers, as these can be used both in new projects and also to mend existing clothing.

If you do need to shop for new fabrics, then it’s always worth having a good rummage through the remnant bin (most shops have them) or if you’re used to shopping online, then check out any scrap bundles or similar - they will often have a discount or clearance section and some great bargains can be found.

I’ve always found village fetes and other fundraising events to be a great

source of both fabrics and notions. I have found vintage buttons - often still on their cards, flosses, and sewing items such as darning mushrooms, thimbles, needle books and much more besides. I think my favourite discoveries at such events have been embroidered table linens, the kind that were so popular in the mid-20th century - crinoline ladies, cute animals and all kinds of floral garlands, swags and bouquets.

It always seems a little sad to find these items on sale for often just a few pennies, as somebody has spent a lot of time and trouble creating them. The standard of stitching can be variable, but even the less expertly done are good for cutting and working into new projects - bunting, cushions and quilts are just some examples.

A(very)LittleGuide toScissors

It’s a good principle to always purchase the best tools you can afford, and this is particularly true of scissors. You’ll use scissors in absolutely every project you ever make, so it’s worth spending a little time, trouble (and money too!) on choosing a good pair - and then looking after them properly.

There is a bewildering variety of scissors available, so your first decision is what you’re going to use yours for. Shears are perfect for cutting fabric - and if you prefer to lay your fabric flat and cut, then you might consider a pair with a bent handle. Serrated blades are good to keep lightweight and/or slippery fabrics under control as the serrated edges will grip the fabric giving you a more accurate cut. General purpose and small scissors are great for snipping threadsand can also be used to cut non-woven fabrics such as felt.

Be sure to try before you buy as scissors vary enormously and you need a pair that feels right in your hand and that you are able to control properly. If you’re left-handed then it’s worth looking for a specialist pair.

Scissors with tempered blades are good quality and strong too, whilst stainless steel blades are lighter in weight, but very sharp and rust proof too. Make sure the pair you’re considering give a smooth cut right from the back to the point of the blade.

Specialist scissors are also available: applique scissors are specially designed for close trimming of fabric edges, the flattened blade allows them to pass easily between layers of fabric. Machine embroidery scissors have handles that are curved to one side so you can accurately trim loose threads and buttonhole scissors have a special adjustable screw to secure them partially open for an exact cutting length.

There are three things you should watch out for to keep your fabric scissors in tip top condition. Firstly dust (or lint from fabric) can be abrasive and may blunt the blades, so it’s good practice

to wipe your scissors over with a dry cloth after each use. Don’t allow moisture to come into contact with them and never put them in the dishwasher(!) You can purchase blade sharpeners that I’ve used quite successfully at home, or get them professionally sharpened should they become dull.

It’s also good practice to occasionally oil the pivot screw with a tiny drop of sewing machine oil, then wipe the blades with a soft cloth and make a few cuts through scrap fabric to remove any surplus.

And the third thing to keep your scissors as good as newNEVER use them to cut paper!!

Stir-upSunday

ThisyearStir-upSundayfallsonthetwenty-third,andthisisthedayweshouldallmix upourChristmaspuddingsiftheyaretobesufficientlymaturedandbrandy-soakedby ChristmasDay. ThisisthelastSundaybeforeAdvent,anditsnamecomesfromthe beginningoftheAnglicanChurch’sprayerfortheday“Stirup,webeseechthee,oh Lord,thewillsofthyfaithfulpeople.” Thisofcoursehasnothingatalltodowith makingChristmaspuddings,butthistaskandaconvenientlytimedBiblereadinghave becomeinextricablylinkedovertheyears.

Bytradition,yourChristmaspuddingshouldcontainexactlythirteeningredientsto representJesusandthedisciples. Itshouldbestirredfromeasttowesttorepresentthe journeyoftheThreeWiseMen. Eachmemberofthefamilyshouldtakeaturnstirring andmakeawishastheydoso. Inwhatisthoughtmaypossiblybeleftoverfromfar oldercharmtraditionsassociatedwithEpiphany,silvercharmsusedtobeincludedat thisstage,andeachrepresentedadifferentkindofluckfortheyearahead. Therewasa silversixpenceforwealth,aringforloveandmarriageandathimbleforalessspecific kindofgoodfortune.

A(very)LittleHistoryoftheChristmasPudding

Adorned with a sprig of holly, with blue flames licking round it, a plum (or Christmas) pudding is an integral part of the British Christmas dinner - but why should this be?

We can trace our Christmas pudding back for nearly 600 years, to two sources dating to at least 1430 or even earlier . At that time it was common for the wealthy to serve standing 'pyes' or 'cof fyns' of tough flour paste, containing meat or fish, fat and dried fruit from Spain or the Levant. These were popular as meat, poultry and fish which went off quickly could be preserved for some time in a sealed case which contained plenty of sugary dried fruit and was filled with butter. Back then, in medieval times, animals, poultry and fish were slaughtered and preserved in quantity in autumn as, except for breeding stock, it wasn't possible to stockpile enough fodder to keep your animals (or even the pike in stew ponds) fed throughout the long winter months and so the succulent tasty "minced" pies were prepared weeks ahead of the great 12-day Christmas feast ready to feed one and all during the festivities.

With the agricultural revolution in the 18th century came improved stock management and cheaper sugar, which made preserving and spicing much less necessary. So

the pies changed, becoming both completely savoury meat pies, together with sweeter "minced" pies with very little meat. Both kinds lost their butter filling and were served with a separate butter, sugar and wine sauce, and were regarded as traditional Christmas foods.

The second source of our Christmas pudding was Christmas pottage. Pottages were thick meat or vegetable soups or stews which required a long simmering time. They'd become particularly popular with the British as our wooded countryside supplied plentiful fuel for cooking. Pottages were particularly suitable for this, being simmered long and slowly over the flames. They were often as thick as muesli; and for rich tables, they included elaborately spiced meat and fish stews containing dried fruits and sugar. For special occasions, some pottages were served with a wine sauce reinforced with brandy which was set alight - rather as we set light to the brandy on our Christmas puddings today. Some of these special pottages were *standing' (ie thick and stiff enough to stand your spoon up in) pottages, thickened with breadcrumbs and egg yolks, coloured red or bright yellow and flavoured with sugar and dried fruits, spices, ground almonds, breadcrumbs and sugar.

ANovemberMorning

Frost,andsunshineafterhadreddenedthehawthornsprays,andalreadytheycouldseethrough theupperbranches-redwithhaws-forthegroundwasstrewnwiththeleesfromtheexposed topsofthebushes. Ontheorangemaplestherewerebunchesofrosy-wingedkeys. Therewasa glossonthehollyleaf,andcatkinsatthetipsoftheleaflessbirch. Astheleavesfellfromthe horsechestnutboughsthevarnishedsheathsofthebudsfornextyearappeared;sotherewere greenbudsonthewillows,blacktipstotheashsaplings,greenbudsonthesycamores.

Thinthreadsofgossamergleamed,thelightranalongtheirloopsastheywereliftedbythe breeze,andtheskywasblueoverthebuffoaks. Jaysscreechedintheoakslookingforacorns,and therecamethemuffledtinkleofasheepbell.

Richard Jefferies (1848-87) from Bevis, 1882

This beautifully embroidered bed cover was made by Mary Newill in 1902. It features a centre circle divided into eight sections with the sun in the middle. In the panels you can see an owl, sparrow, chaffinch, tit, butterflies, moths, the moon and stars. Alternative panels feature a design of dog roses. There are also rainbows and dog roses at each corner.

The words written around the bed cover are taken from the 2nd verse of Ode: Intimations of Immortality from Recollections of Early Childhood by William Wordsworth.

The bed cover is on display in the Victorian Radicals exhibition at Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery

AtWinter’s Approach…

November often seems to somehow catch us slightly by surprise. We know it’s coming after all, but are lulled into a false sense that the warmth and sunshine are here to stay - October after all can be pleasantly bright and mild. But after the excitement of Halloween, the clocks go back and it’s dark at five o’clock. Such a contrast with the weeks before!

November is the last month of autumn and, as we are saying farewell to the very last of the warm days, we can start to look forward to the frosts and snows of winter.

Although by the end of the month the last leaves will have fallen from the trees and the countryside will be bare of colour, nonetheless he fruit and vegetables in season this month means that our food at least remains colourful. This month brings the last of the harvest, providing us with with an abundance of vegetables, as the final pickings of salad leaves and peppers overlap with the first parsnips, kale and Brussels sprouts. Vibrant carrots, sweet potatoes and deep red cabbage make bright side dishes, whilst

pomegranates add a pretty finishing touch to a wide variety of recipes. Pack a punch with peppery turnip and horseradish, grated into crisp rostis or creamy sauces. For something sweet, juicy satsumas and tangerines are perfect for healthy snacks.

November is one of the best months for root vegetables, parsnips and celeriac in particular make great additions to your shopping list. And although not quite as much can be found now as in October, it’s still worth foraging along the hedgerows as this month brings the final fling of the forager, of mushrooms, rose hips, haws and sloes.

At the beginning of the month we enjoy the abundance of pumpkins and squashes, though the large pumpkins sold especially for Halloween carving lack the flavour of other varieties. Still, my chickens love them, and there are plenty of other squashes to enjoy. Towards November’s end we begin to plan for the festivities to come - mince pie anyone?

Method

BakedGnocchiwith SquashandSpinach

Ingredients

● 600g butternut squash

● peeled, deseeded and cut into small chunks (450g prepared weight)

● 1 tbsp olive oil

● 2 garlic cloves. crushed

● 160g baby leaf spinach

● 250g mascarpone

● grating of nutmeg

● 30g parmesan cheese, grated

● 500g gnocchi

● 3 tbsp fresh or dried breadcrumbs

● Put the squash in a heatproof bowl with a splash of water and pinch of seasoning, then cover and microwave on high for 5 mins. Or, toss the squash in a drizzle of oil and some seasoning, and cook for 12 mins at 200C in an air fryer until soft and caramelised. It can also be roasted in the oven for 25 mins.

● Meanwhile, heat 2 tsp of the oil in a large ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat and fry the garlic for 30 seconds until sizzling but not coloured. Add the spinach, season and cook until wilted.

● When the squash is tender, roughly mash half of it using a fork. Stir the mashed squash and the mascarpone into the spinach, then add 150ml water and stir until you have a smooth, creamy sauce. Grate in a generous amount of nutmeg and add half the parmesan. Gently stir in the gnocchi and squash chunks to coat in the sauce. Simmer for 1-2 mins until everything is heated through, adding a splash of water if the sauce is very thick. Scatter over the breadcrumbs and remaining parmesan.

● Heat the grill to medium-high, then slide the gnocchi under for a few minutes until golden and bubbling at the edges.

Onions

Come,followmebythesmell, Herearedelicateonionstosell; Ipromisetouseyouwell. Theymakethebloodwarmer, You’llfeedlikeafarmer; Forthisiseverycook’sopinion, Nosavourydishwithoutanonion; But,lestyourkissingshouldbespoiled Youronionsmustbethoroughlyboiled: Orelseyoumayspare Yourmistressashare, Thesecretwillneverbeknown: Shecannotdiscover Thebreathofherlover, Butthinkitassweetasherown.

Jonathan Swift definitely had a sense of humour - and obviously knew a little about cooking as well! I have often thought that, should I ever write a cookery book (which I almost certainly won’t!) it should be entitled “First Chop an Onion” as this is the beginning of 99% of my cooking!

Preparingforthe holidays…..

“Christmas is coming, The geese are getting fat.

Please to put a penny In the old man’s hat!”

And there are lots of other things you can put in hand now to make December just that little bit easier and less stressed.

Saw this and was wondering if there was a similar term for the same activity - but for fabric not books!

TheGardenerinNovember-Composting

Novemberis,formeanyway,oneofthebestmonthsintheyear. Thelong,unequal struggletocopewiththeworkinalargegardenisatanend;thetempoisslower,and jobsdonenowlastsformonths,insteadofdays. IntopgeareversinceApril,itisgoodto havethepressurereduced.

Ofcoursethereisstillplentytobedoneandthefirstsharpfrostturnsthepageforme,so tospeak. FromthathappymorningwhichIsalute,thebigtidyupbegins. Thefirst thingtobedoneistomarkthesiteandthedimensionsofthenewcompostheap,which willriserapidlywithallthematerialnowavailable. Whenthebigcleanupisfinished, andthenewlyandcarefullybuiltcompostheapisgentlysteaming,IstickmylonghandledforkintoIlastyear’slottoseewhatkindofasampleitis. Thenitgoesbackto whereitbelongs.

Now,youwillhaveheardmuchandreadmuchaboutmakingcompost,sothere’sno needformetoairmyviewsaboutit;butthereisoneaspectofcompostingthathasnot beenmentioned,sofarasIknow. Itisthefinestmethodeverdevised,forrecoveringthe toolsyoulostlastyear. Secateurs,trowels,dibbers,whet-stones,handforksandevena trugbasketaresomeoftheitemsthatI’vehadrestoredtome. Itbeatsmehowtheycame tobeinthere. Oneofmybestpipesspentayearinaheapanditsmokesassweetasanut.

Albert Butler; Book of the Countryside 1963

DIGGING

TodayIthink

Onlywithscents,-scentsdeadleavesyield, Andbracken,andwildcarrot’sseed, Adthesquaremustardfield;

Odoursthatrise

Whenthespadewoundstherootoftree, Rose,currant,raspberry,orgoutweed, Rhubarborcelery;

Thesmoke’ssmell,too

Flowingfromwhereabonfireburns Thedead,thewaste,thedangerous, Andalltosweetnessturns.

Itisenough

Tosmell,tocrumblethedarkearth, Whiletherobinsingsoveragain SadsongsofAutumnmirth.

Edward Thomas (1878-1917)

TheRoyalSchoolofNeedleworkwasfoundedin1872witha missiontopreservetheartofhandembroidery.

Tomarkits150thanniversarytheRSNlaunchedtheRSN StitchBanktocontinuethismission.

TheRSNStitchBankaimstodigitallyconserveandshowcase thewidevarietyoftheworld’sembroiderystitchesandthe waysinwhichtheyhavebeenusedindifferentculturesand times.

TheRSNStitchBankisanongoingprojectandnewstitches areaddedregularly.TheRSNwillbeworkingwithpartners aroundtheworldtoincludestitchesfromdifferenttraditions.

Everyyearwelosehistorictextilesthroughwear,age,andthemoreaggressiveroutesofwar,neglectand destruction.

Weknowthatstitchesfromhistoryhavebeenlostbecausetheyfalloutofuse.Then,whenanolder embroideredpieceisdiscovered,curatorsandmuseumstaffcannotrecognisethestitches.Textilesandthe knowledgeofstitchesthroughouttheworldcontinuetobethreatenedbywarsandotherdisturbances,aswell aschangesinmanufacturingprocesses.

StitcherscanusetheRSNStitchBanktofindanewstitchtouseinaprojectandlearnhowtomakeitusing videos,writteninstructions,illustrationsandphotographsforeachstitch.Researchers,curators,historians andstudentscanusethesitetolearnabouttheuse,structureandhistoryofeachstitchinarangeof embroiderytechniquesandtoidentifyastitchonatextile.

Youcanbrowsethestitchwallhere

Youcanalsocreateyourownfolderandsavethestitchesyouaremostinterestedin. Itisallcompletelyfree andanamazingresourceforstitchers!

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