The Leader • Saturday, January 19, 2019 • Page 1B
Fun with pho
Want beer to-go? Holler at your state lawmakers bonated adult beverages. But the former is not allowed to sell beer togo, while the By Adam latter can put its product in Zuvanich cans or growlers and push them to their patrons. Brent Fogt lived close to Holler Brewing Co. foundthree breweries when he lived in Chicago, and he er John Holler calls the two didn’t even have to visit them categories and their differevery time he wanted to en- ing parameters a “fly in the joy their beer. He could have ointment,� but it’s more like jugs filled up at each site and a mosquito in a pint. In other take them home, where he words, Texas’ beer laws are could keep them cold until drunk and need to come to their senses. he got thirsty. Holler said Texas is the Fogt, an artist who moved to Houston within the last only state in the United year, cannot do that at his fa- States that does not allow tovorite craft beer maker near go sales at all its microbrewhis new home. Holler Brew- eries, but that could soon ing Co. can pour glasses of change. Identical House suds in its taproom in Sawyer and Senate bills have been Heights, but it’s illegal for the proposed in the Texas Leg2-year-old business to sell its islature that would amend a product to customers who 2013 law that led to the proliferation of taprooms, and want to take it with them. “It’s a really great thing to thereby an explosion of craft do to be able to have fresh brewers, by allowing small beer on demand,� Fogt said “breweries� to sell their prodwhile sitting at the Holler uct for off-site consumption bar Sunday night. “I wish we as well as on their premises. “It definitely would be a had that in Texas. I think it game-changer for us,� said would be really, really good Holler, who would start for Texas.� canning his beer if the law Texas does have that in many cases. But in other cas- passed and went into effect es, such as the case for Holler Sept. 1. “I think there are Brewing Co. and some other other breweries in the same craft beer makers in the area, boat.� To be considered a “brewit does not. pub� and presently be alThe state makes a regulowed to sell to-go beer, latory distinction between “breweries� and “brewpubs,� brewers must produce fewer which in many instances are than 10,000 barrels per year hardly distinguishable among See Brew P. 4B common consumers of car-
Zuvie’s Brews
Photo by Zarah Parker Pho Ga with a large helping of bean sprouts, cilantro, and lime. The dish is one of many variations available on the popular noodle dish.
Popular noodle soup boasts rich history By Zarah Parker zarah@theleadernews.com Pho can be simply explained as Vietnamese noodle soup traditionally made with beef or chicken broth that is seasoned with spices and topped with herbs. However, what that definition doesn’t capture is the rich flavor pho can achieve. To understand why the Vietnamese are proficient in creating flavor-filled broth, we have to start at pho’s beginning. The history of pho can be traced back to North Vietnam in the Nam Dinh/Hanoi region where it made its first appearance in the late 19th century. Many believe the iconic Vietnamese dish was inspired by French and Chinese cooking.
The word pho is actually a term to describe the cooking process used to make the dish, namely the long hours that are required to cook the broth. It’s from the French that the Vietnamese were influenced to use marrow-rich, cartilaginous bones that simmer in the broth for three hours. When it first originated in northern Vietnam it was simply rice noodles, beef and hearty broth. “As it moved into more wealthy South Vietnam, they added more things like basil, bean sprouts, mint, sawtooth, etc.,� said Christopher Huang, who opened Flying Pho, 3434 Ella Blvd., which serves only North Vietnamese pho. “Sugar also became a standard ingredient in south-
ern-style pho.� The most noticeable differences between the two styles is that northern-style pho features wider noodles and beefier broth. “The general idea is that the broth is king and doesn’t need to be modified to taste good,� Huang said. “Southern-style is more about customizability to the customer’s preference.� Americans have mostly been exposed to southern-style pho, due to a majority of immigrants coming from Vietnam being from the south. According to Huang, there are only a handful of north Vietnamese restaurants in the United States.
Review: Nam Eatery, home of pho and phonetic comedy By Zarah Parker zarah@theleadernews.com Keep Calm and Pho On. This is the message I was greeted with when I walked into Nam Eatery on 20th St. It was printed across the entrance rug, and I couldn’t help but agree with it. I was ready to relax and slurp up hot pho on a winter night in Houston, which means it was just kind of cold outside. Along with the rug’s play on a pop culture reference, the restaurant was decorated to be aesthetically pleasing to the modern eye. Black-and-white murals along the walls depict Vietnamese life, while sections feature chalkboard panels created for the customer who only eats out so they can Instagram it. And because I especially love puns, I enjoyed the chalkboard panel covered in colorful #PhoPuns, like So Phonny, Phoeva and Phonomenal (I’d say they were quite Phobulous). On the other side of the restaurant, a chalkboard panel featured the real reason I was at Nam Eatery: “Pho is cheaper than therapy.� The menu featured the classic Vietnamese options like banh mi, vermicelli bowls and, of course, pho, but the categories were given a modern flare that made me laugh. Some of the menu divisions were
Photo by Zarah Parker A young pho eater enjoys “phonny� puns emblazoned on the chalk panel inside the restaurant at Nam Eatery in the Heights.
Fingerlicious (appetizers), Slurpers (pho), Be Vulnerable (alcohol) with the caption underneath reading, “We won’t judge you ‌,â€? and Temptations (dessert) with the caption, “Confessions available at your nearest church.â€? I ordered the Pho Ga (chicken) at the counter and was promptly told by the cashier that it would come with a side of ginger sauce and that it was for dipping my chicken, not for pouring into my soup. It wasn’t long until my pho came out of the kitchen with a light
steam coming from the bowl. When the server once again explained that I should not pour the ginger into my soup, I had a sneaking suspicion that many customers had made the mistake before. Good news is that the chicken dipped in ginger was quite good. Now, normally I’ll try a sauce but rarely continue to use it. Yet, I was hooked by the ginger and quickly went from dipping to dunking my chicken. See Nam P. 4B
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Page 2B • Saturday, January 19, 2019 • The Leader
Art Valet: Palacios mixes humor with serious paintings Mitch Cohen Art Columnist
You walk into a comedy club, enjoy an evening of hilarity, drinks and light bites, and leave with a large painting that looks like it was made of mosaic tile rather than paint. Is this a joke? No, this is what’s happening at Lenora Palacios’ studio once a month at Winter Street Studios. Palacios creates large paintings that are colorful, have an iconic feel and almost all look like they are made of mosaic tile. I always look twice when I see a new painting by Palacios. She’s that good. Palacios didn’t just decide to host comedy shows in her studio space. “I know God plainly puts things in my face I can’t ignore,� Palacios said. The idea for comedy came by way of Chinese food delivery. No, I’m not joking. She struck up a conversation with her delivery man and found out he was a comedian. “I knew inside I was supposed to connect with this guy and do something,� Palacios said. “So I asked him if he’d perform at my studio and he said, ‘Sure.’ He brought a bunch of comics and, boom, we got a comedy club. I’ve had fun, met people, sold art and it’s been great.� Let’s backtrack a little. Palacios hails from New Jersey originally. After a rough childhood, followed by an even rockier marriage, Palacios found herself a teen mother married to an unstable soldier in Fort Hood. She reluctantly gave her baby up for adoption and divorced. She left Texas but later moved back to find her son and let him know he was loved. That first week back she had one date, fell in love, married again and now has four more children. It was in finding her son that eventually inspired Palacios to paint. “I found my son in 2011. He had been in Beaumont federal prison for 10 years (and) before that state prison,� Palacios said. “I wrote to him and told him everything and after about six months I went to meet him. My purpose was not to be his mother, just let him know he was wasn’t thrown away. I thought if he were anything
Contributed photo Shown here is “JUNE,� which is a painting of Lenora Palacios’ sister before the two met over the holidays.
like his dad, he would need answers. “I started visiting him every other Friday for five hours each time and we became very close,� Palacios continued. “The reason the mosaic came about was because of my son. He told me he felt like he was turning to stone in prison, so I painted him like that and all the tick marks and details was just so comfortable, the brokenness of it all was like a soliloquy to a sentimentalist like me. The more I added, the better I liked it, so I developed it and it became my signature style. “I’ve found also that after meeting Russell, my son, it was like I was a brand-new per-
son. All the pain and darkness from the memories were gone. That’s the reason I started painting my memories. Each one has a story and has served a cleansing purpose. It works for me.� Over the holidays, Palacios met a half-sister for the first time. Her father had been stationed in Japan and married and had a daughter, but lost contact when reassigned. Her sister never knew she had other family in the United States, but a DNA test through ancetry.com brought them together. “The crazy thing is she’s been in the U.S. since she was 3 (years old) and went to UCLA. She now resides in Los An-
geles,� Palacios said. “I have a place to stay and show art in L.A., which is something I knew I would eventually do. “She’s exactly like my dad. It was bizarre, and I’m so glad to have a sister that I don’t share decades of bad memories with. It’s wonderful. I look forward to that. “As luck (or God) would have it, I’ll be in a gallery in Laguna Beach (California) around the first of February. Nothing in my life is by accident.� Coming up, Palacios has plans to write a book, a sitcom and will be hosting receptions in her space, such as Brilliant Women in Film Day on March 8 as declared by Mayor Sylvester Turner. Palacios partners with Ku Egenti in organizing the comedy shows. The events are invitation-only. Visit her studio on the second Saturday of each month to get on the list or email her at lenora.palacios@ gmail.com to get an invite. An RSVP is required. This Saturday in the studio are comedians Mike Rao, Jeff Joe and Corlis DeLauren. For more, visit lenorapalacios.com or stop by Winter Street Studios at 2101 Winter St. Cohen is an artist and founder of First Saturday Arts Market and the Market at Sawyer Yards. Find him at ArtValet.com.
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The Leader • Saturday, January 19, 2019 • Page 3B
Food Briefs
AIKIDO & AIKIJUTSU
Flying Fish debuts in Heights do the cooking on an outdoor grill or work with a food truck. But most of all, Sharma wants the bar to keep its lowkey vibe. Find Vara’s at 2727 North Fwy.
By Zarah Parker zarah@theleadernews.com Flying Fish, a fast-casual seafood concept, recently opened in the Heights. Along with catfish, you can find shrimp, oysters, grilled fish, shrimp cocktails, crab legs, burgers, chicken and crawfish (when in season) on the menu. There’s a specialty selection of grilled salmon, trout and tilapia that will be offered each day as well. For an adult beverage, you can grab an ice-cold beer on tap, bottled beer, wine or a homemade margarita. Customers also have a chance to add to the “Liar’s Wall,” which features a photo of the customer with their “big” catch. Or, you might have a Big Mouth Billy Bass, a mounted talking fish, that you want to give up. You can add it to the restaurant’s “Billy Bass Adoption Wall” and receive a free basket of catfish. Flying Fish is open every day from 11 a.m.–10 p.m. at 1815 N. Durham Dr.
Opening soon
Contributed photo Fried catfish from the newly opened Flying Fish at 1815 N. Durham Dr.
Shaun Sharma, co-owner of downtown’s Dirt Bar, loves dive bars so much that when he heard that Vara’s Sports Bar was up for sale he decided to rescue it from being turned into another place with overpriced drinks. According to CultureMap, Sharma and his brother bought the establishment and other than upgrading to a full mixed beverage license, there isn’t much else they’ll change. They’re playing with the idea of having a steak night or wing night, but will either have to
Dive bar rescue
Tiff’s Treats is opening its newest outpost at 1051 Heights Blvd on Jan. 19, marking the concept’s ninth Houston-area location. The cookies are baked when ordered, making the cookies still warm from being fresh out of the oven when customers have them delivered. Hopdoddy Burger Bar will be opening its Heights location Jan. 21 at 449 W. 19th St. This will be the sixth Houston-area location. Fans of the burger joint can expect the same mainstay burgers, handcut Kennebec fries, handspun shakes, specialty cocktails and local craft beer.
Closed for good
Hickory Hollow closed its Washington Avenue location Jan. 13. It was known for its menu of comfort food for the last 31 years.
The Obituaries.
Aurora Macias Carreon, 97, born Jan. 11, 1922 in Waelder, Texas, died Dec. 30. She is survived by her daughter Eva Walker, son Juan Carreon, sister Mollie, and two grandchildren. Susan Kay Cernosek, 61, born Feb. 11, 1957, died Jan. 11. Cernosek was born at Heights Hospital. Sidney Allen Cox, 81, born Oct. 10, 1937, died Dec. 26. Vennie Jorene Haltom, 80, born Feb. 10, 1938 in Grapeland, Texas, died Jan. 6. She was a longtime member of Woodland Baptist Church. She is survived by her sons John Leblanc, Robert Roberts, daughters Phyllis Brocato, Juanita Elle Gray, and nine grandchildren. Rosemary Ann Jones, 79, born Jan. 29, 1939, died Dec. 28. She is survived by her daughter, Jennifer Osowski,
stepson Jesse Jones Jr., and two grandchildren. Bertha A. Manning, 105, born Dec. 26, 1913 in Stafford, Texas, died Jan. 12.. Arthur Robert Pintsch, 97, born March 5, 1921, died Jan. 7. Pauline Lanelle Terry, 67, born Aug. 9, 1951, died Jan. 6. Terry was a graduate of John H. Reagan High SchoolShe is survived by her sisters, Elizabeth and Dorothy. Fern Wass, 81, born Oct. 9, 1937 in Smithville, Mo., died Jan. 6. She is survived by her children, Diana Gonzalez, Bonnie Jones, Anita Gutierrez, son Neil Wass, sisters Joyce Shanks, Dickie Shafer, and brother Richard Reinosky, 11 grandchildren, and 19 greatgrandchildren.
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Page 4B • Saturday, January 19, 2019 • The Leader
Family-oriented yoga studio moves in By Betsy Denson betsy@theleadernews.com Carissa Barcus and Mynette Murtagh Randall wanted to make family wellness a priority at their yoga studio at 1355 Judiway St., Suite A2, where a prominent former tenant did much the same. The owners of Move Yoga, which opens Saturday, did some online research and discovered the studio they leased was at one time Patsy Swayze’s dance studio. Barcus said they found pictures of Swayze dancing on their floors with her most famous student – her son, Patrick, who grew up in Oak Forest and went on to become a successful actor, dancer and singer. “(Patsy) was a mom running a business where she could be with her kids,” Barcus said. “And that’s exactly what we were trying to do.” Barcus and Randall will offer a range of classes for kids and adults. The types of yoga being offered are Power Flow, which is a heated class suitable for all Contributed photo levels; Align & Flow, a non-heated class Carissa Barcus, left, and Mynette Murtagh Randall open their new studio, Move Yoga, this suitable for all levels; Yin Yoga, which is a weekend at 1355 Judiway St., Suite A2. non-heated meditative practice designed Barcus was doing Power Vinyasa Flow took Barcus and Randall a year to locate a for all levels; and Kids Yoga in which chilYoga, which is taught in a heated stu- spot for their studio. dren will practice asana, or body posture, “Everything is expensive in (Oak Forthrough fun games and also learn about dio, five or six days a week and after the birth of her second child decided to take est) and sought after,” Barcus said. stillness and what it means to be connectteacher training. She has been teaching She said they kept the original floors ed to your feelings. The kids’ yoga age ranges are potty yoga full-time for five years at several big and buffed them out - “It’s beautiful intrained through pre-kindergarten for tod- yoga studios, including BIG Power Yoga, side.” Prices range from a new student adult dler yoga and children in kindergarten Revolution and Joy Yoga, before setting a five-year goal to open her own studio. It’s special at $30 for the month – available through fifth grade for kids’ yoga. Howat mindbodyonline.com through Sunday – ever, younger or older siblings can go up happening in year two. Her partner in the endeavor is Randall, and $30 per month of kids’ classes to a or down to be with their brother or sister. “We don’t allow drop-offs (for kids) be- who Barcus met doing long-distance run- monthly unlimited rate for adults at $119. cause we really want parents to practice, ning and marathon training. Randall re- There are also single-class drop-in prices cently taught for the City of Houston and and class bundles you can purchase. If also,” Barcus said. Barcus knows the benefits that yoga now volunteer teaches each week at The people want to try Move Yoga this weekCenter Houston to adults with disabilities end, Barcus said it is mandatory to precan have. “When I was a teen I was a dancer and The HUB Houston, a high school for register so they can plan for the right amount of participants. and yoga was required, so I begrudgingly children with neurological differences. “We were doing yoga together,” Barcus For more information and to sign up, went,” Barcus said. “But I learned to love said. “She came to one of my first classes visit https://www.moveyogahouston. what it did for me. I got away from yoga com/. as a young adult but got back to it in my and eventually got certified, too.” The biggest hurdle was finding space. It 30s.” Brew from P. 1B and self-distribute fewer than Engle, whose company 1,000 barrels per year. If they temporarily suspended beer ship out more than 1,000 barproduction in early December rels per year, they can keep but plans to resume within their “brewpub” permit by the next two months, said the signing with a distributor. ability to sell beer to-go would Some of Houston’s larger help market the Town in City craft brewers that have “brewbrand. It also would figure to ery” permits, and therefore help his bottom line, because cannot sell to-go beer, are Bufhe said December cider sales falo Bayou Brewing Co., Karfor off-site consumption were bach Brewing Co. and Saint 30 percent higher than sales Arnold Brewing Company. for on-site consumption. Area craft brewers in the Engle and Holler, along “brewpub” category, which with many Texas brewers like are treated like bars in a legal them, hope Senate Bill 312 sense, include Brash Brewand House Bill 672 pass. So ing, Eureka Heights Brew Co., do beer consumers like Fogt, Photo by Adam Zuvanich Great Heights Brewing Com- Holler Brewing Co. customer Travis Acord, center, who can find more informaenjoys a beer pany and Platypus Brewing. Sunday as employee Crystal Phillips, left, points to the menu. tion about the issue, and how Holler Brewing Co. meets the to support it, by visiting craftproduction and distribution is categorized as a “brewery.” can sell six-packs of his cider pac.org. parameters of a “brewpub” According to founder Justin but not his beer. Another regular Holler “Manufacturing breweries Brewing Co. customer, Port but cannot obtain that license Engle, his business cannot be because of a Houston law that a “brewpub” because it also should be able to do to-go Lavaca resident Travis Acord, prohibits bars or brewpubs maintains a wine-manufactur- sales, because manufacturing wondered why he couldn’t alfrom operating within 1,000 ing permit for its other brand, wineries and manufacturing ready take its beer home. Houston Cider Co. distilleries have always been feet of a school. “If it was legal, put it this Here’s another head- able to do to-go,” Engle said. way: I’d buy a growler,” Acord Town in City Brewing Company also fits the parameters scratcher: The wine permit al- “There’s no equal protection said. “I’d be leaving with some of a “brewpub” but like Holler lows for to-go sales, so Engle with the laws.” beer if it was possible.”
Nam from P. 1B While pho is a relatively basic dish and its strength or weakness is associated with how well the broth is made, for me I need good broth coupled with a good amount of cilantro and lime (this is a rule for 90 percent of food I eat). Apart from ordering at the counter, the rest of Nam Eatery’s experience is self-service. There’s free lime water available for customers and a walk-up veggie station. Some may not realize what a big deal that is, but anyone who loves pho can admit that a majority of places are stingy with their bean sprouts, cilantro and limes. It was almost a relief to walk up to the veggie area and pile on as much as I wanted. So, while the pho broth at Nam Eatery was on the simple side, I was able to get it to my liking with my extra load of veggies. Nam Eatery Address: 502 E. 20th St. Unit B Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday–Saturday Entrée prices: $6-$15 Kid-friendly: Yes Senior discount: No Health options: Pho Tofu Star of the show: Chicken dipped in ginger sauce
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HISD gathering public feedback for new superintendent search For The Leader The Houston Independent School District Board of Education is conducting a nationwide search for a permanent superintendent, and trustees are seeking input from the community about the qualities and traits they would like to see in their next district leader. HISD Board of Education trustees have scheduled several meetings to gather feedback from the community that will be used to develop a superintendent candidate profile. Illinois-based firm Hazard, Young, Attea & Associates will help trustees host the series of community meetings – including the district-wide meeting on Saturday, Jan. 19 – to gather input from parents and students, school-based staff, district employees, and business and community members. The board will then use that feedback to finalize its su-
perintendent profile and begin searching for candidates. Among the meetings will be gatherings at two local schools, and the Hattie May White ESC. Along with the district-wide meeting set for Jan. 19 at the ESC, board President Rhonda Skillern-Jones will preside over the Jan. 23 meeting at Frank Black Middle School. District I trustee Elizabeth Santos will attend the Jan. 23 meeting at Heights High School. Input on the search for HISD’s permanent superintendent can also be provided via an online survey at HoustonISD.org. The remaining community meeting schedule is as follows: Barbara Jordan Career Center, 5800 Eastex Fwy., 77026 Thursday, Jan. 17, 2019, 6:30 p.m. (Trustee Anne Sung,
District VII) Wisdom High School, 6529 Beverly Hill St., 77057 Saturday, Jan. 19, 2019, 9 a.m. (HISD Board of Education – District-wide meeting) Hattie Mae White Educational Support Center, 4400 W. 18th St., 77092 Tuesday, Jan. 22, 2019, 9 a.m. (Trustee Sergio Lira, District III, Trustee Diana Davila, District VIII – Students Only) The Vara Center, 1102 Telephone Road, 77023 Tuesday, Jan. 22, 2019, 11 a.m. (Trustee Elizabeth Santos, District I, Trustee Sergio Lira, District III, Trustee Diana Davila, District VIII) The Vara Center, 1102 Telephone Road, 77023 Tuesday, Jan. 22, 2019, 6 p.m. (Trustee Sergio Lira, District III, Trustee Diana Davila, District VIII) Chavez High School, 8501 Howard Dr., 77017
Wednesday, Jan. 23, 2019, 1 p.m. (Trustee Rhonda Skillern-Jones, District II) Black Middle School, 1575 Chantilly Lane, 77018 Wednesday, Jan. 23, 2019, 9 a.m. (Trustee Elizabeth Santos, District I) Northside High School, 1101 Quitman, 77009 Wednesday, Jan. 23, 2019, 11 a.m. (Trustee Elizabeth Santos, District I – Students Only) Northside High School, 1101 Quitman, 77009 Wednesday, Jan. 23, 2019, 6 p.m. (Trustee Elizabeth Santos, District I) Heights High School, 413 E 13th St., 77008 Thursday, Jan. 24, 2019, 6:30 p.m. (Trustee Wanda Adams, District IX) Madison High School, 13719 White Heather Dr., 77045
chili peppers, lime wedges, bean sprouts and cilantro. Other additions can be made with different sauces. “They use a lot of Sriracha and hoisin sauce in the south, and those were never added in the north,” Huang said. “In modern day, there are some pho shops in North Vietnam that have started to carry Sriracha, but it’s not the norm.” When making pho at home, particularly with beef, it’s important to pay special attention to three specific ingredients. First, the bones used with
the broth matter. The most popular to use are beef knuckles because they are rich in connective tissue and they give the broth a rich thickness. If knuckle bones are hard to find, the second best to use is beef shank. Sometimes at Asian markets they sell packages of a combination of knuckles and shank, which also work well. Next to pay attention to is the type of fish sauce to buy. A lot of the fish sauces that can be bought at grocery stores are full of additives and preservatives, which can change
the taste of the broth. Look for a brand that has only two or three ingredients. Lastly, make sure you get the right noodles. The rice noodles are flat, sometimes packaged as rice sticks and, depending on which store, are sold fresh or dried. Rice noodles with medium thickness will work best, because if they’re too thin they’ll dissolve and if they’re too thick they’ll be too chewy. The internet is brimming with recipes. You just have to choose what type of broth you want.
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Pho from P. 1B While all the spices are the same for both styles, southern pho recipes call for more serving sizes. Among the seasonings used are cinnamon, anise, ginger, onion, black cardamom, coriander seed, fennel seed and clove. Often the spices are wrapped in a soaking bag to prevent them from floating around the pot while the broth simmers. It’s with the garnishes that southern-style pho becomes truly customizable. Typically, the Vietnamese dish is served with green onions, white onions, Thai basil,
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