Viva 20th August 2025

FASHION'S FUTURE

NZ Fashion Week: Kahuria

The looks, the designers, the shows

It’sonfire,baby!

Warm up at Auckland’s Viaduct Harbour as it continues its monthlong celebration, By the Fire There’s a precinct-wide light installation by light artist Angus Muir, invigorating outdoor rituals, flame-licked menus, spiced cocktails, and soul-warming spa and stay-cation escapes Market Square will feature a sculptural bonfire animated by ambient light, drifting smoke, and the soothing sounds of a crackling fire Take a seat on a log to soak up the vibes Restaurants and bars in the Viaduct are offering signature dishes and cocktails over the month And it’s not just at night that the Viaduct comes alive Every Saturday morning in August, SALA brings its signature energy outdoors with complimentary fitness classes Sessions start at 8am at Market Square Spaces must be booked via sala.studio/book, or go to viaduct co nz for more information If you need to relax and unwind, Sofitel Spa is offering a Hot Stone Winter Reset ($135) Bliss

Sale Koanga Festival

Te Pou Theatre is set to welcome Koanga Festival to its stage for two weekends this September, as the annual celebration for Maori performing arts takes the spotlight This year’s programme involves music, theatre, dance and many other forms of storytelling Headlining the festival is rock theatre show What Happened to MaryAnne? by writer-performer Brady Peeti Another highlight will be the Koanga Playwrights Programme which will see stories from the festival’s development programme shared for the first time This year the writers explore various forms of Maori futurism The festival runs from September 12 to 21 at Te Pou Theatre, Henderson See Koangafestival nz

IntoTheDesert

Mirage is the newest SS25 collection from local accessories label Saben, one which highlights the rugged beauty of a desert landscape and celebrates the joy of the journey Designed for modern explorers, the collection adds fresh silhouettes to the line-up, including Addie, Adler, Flo, Florence and Rocco, available in shades of earthy umber and muted eucalyptus, soft neutrals such as the pale sand of raffia or subdued pinks in desert rose Mirage features new textures including bubble leather, artisanal braiding and stitched weave work, available in a soft lamb leather Saben's selection of elevated accessories ensures there's something for everyone from structured shoulder bags or midsized totes to compact crossbody bags or top-handled mini bags Available from Saben flagship stores, at selected retailers or online at Saben.co.nz

Neat Cakes, the vegan and gluten-free friendly cake shop on Dominion Rd, is set to close in the next two weeks To mark the occasion, bakers around Tamaki Makaurau will gather at the shop this Sunday for a huge fundraising bake sale You can expect to see the faces behind Burnt Butter, Sunday The Bakery, Fundraiser, Mudita and Jaimes Cup Cakery at the event From 12pm, the burger slingers at Ralph’s Eatery will also host a pop-up with a special menu and more desserts supplied by Neat Cakes If you can’t make these events, The Midnight Baker has also opened preorders for their coveted buckwheat loaves and bread mixes (orders close August 26 and there are courier and pick up options for your chosen treats) All proceeds from the events will be donated to the Palestine Children’s Relief Fund Neat Cakes, 218 Dominion Rd, Mount Eden.

1. Pebble Gems necklace $185 (approx )

2. By Tonin earrings $190

3. Zoe McBride ring, $420, from Sully’s

4. Company of Strangers bracelet $310

5. Harris Tapper belt $143 (on sale)

6. Penny Sage scrunchie $60

7 Meadowlark necklace $475

8. Crushes hair clips $10

9 Caitlin Snell hairclip $65

Stockists: Harristapper.com; Crushes.co.nz; Pebblegems. co.au; Bytonin.com; Pennysage.com; Companyofstrangers. co.nz; Sullys.co.nz; Caitlinsnell.com; Meadowlark.co.nz

Stylist: Madeleine Crutchley

T n foryour g touches partypieces inishin 2 6 3 7 9 5 4 8 1

VIVA’S WINE AWARDS

Strutwiththebest

Kim Knight speaks to old hands on the dos and don’ts for Fashion Week first-timers

The sky was blue and the culottes were red Cherry? Lipstick? “Samoan flag red,” says stylist Sammy Salsa, because at this stage in the evolution of pants et al, everything is personal

Behind the scenes of a Viva cover shoot, I was picking expert brains

New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria is six days of bright lights, beautiful people and for the first-timer abject terror

What should I wear? Who will be in the front row? Should I put my arms inside my coat?

“Burn all the capes,” says an anonymous source with excellent hair that is all her own

“Just be yourself,” says Sammy “If you feel cool, if you feel hot, amazing The work is done ”

The stylist worked his first NZ Fashion Week as a waiter It was not an entirely good time

“Before cancel culture, before picture phones, people got away with a lot You could be a dick, and no one would know ”

Fortunately, as a waiter, you could also grab a goodie bag and score a ghd hair straightener

Are there still goodie bags? Are they actually good?

“There will be several thousand,” promises Murray Bevan “Getting a front row seat is almost bound to result in a goodie bag of some sort ”

Murray is, coincidentally, still the man to talk to about that seat The Fashion Week board member will be reprising his role as Front of House Fairy Godmother in a Good Coat

“No one’s actually going to get into the venue without an invite or a ticket You can’t blag your way past the door and flash a lanyard in someone’s face

“If you’re really wanting to try it on and you’ve only got $75, buy a Row G seat Then, if you’re dressed really well, and you look like you really want to be there, and there’s lots of free space, more often than not I’ll look at Row B and C and I’ll bring people forward to fill those gaps ”

In 2025, everybody is a Fashion Week first-timer The event cancelled last year amid an economic downturn and consumer malaise has had a radical overhaul

The venue is new and considerably less carpeted (Auckland’s Shed 10) Every runway show now includes publicly ticketed seats (historically, the first part of the week has been industry only) Once, designers previewed fashion you wouldn’t see in store until next season This year, expect to be able to immediately shop the look

“Gatekeeping is no longer Fashion Week’s responsibility or ownership,” says Murray “That’s been burned to the ground, and that has been done by customers who demand more, quicker ”

I remember my first time Dressed to the nines and blisters by day two My handbag didn’t work with a notepad; my shoes didn’t work with the slog between shows I spotted rival writers in the front row “We hate them, don’t we?” I said to my colleague who had been to a million of these things She looked genuinely

shocked It was the first time I realised insecurity breeds superiority “It’s just the unfamiliarity, right,” says photographer Guy Coombes “You look at these people and think they’re all super important But the longer you’re in it ”

I WANT TO BE SNAPPED BY STREET-STYLE PHOTOGRAPHERS WHAT SHOULD I WEAR?

Sammy Salsa, stylist: “Have your own personality If your outfit looks lived in, I think you have more of a chance There’s more of a story behind it ”

Guy Coombes, photographer:

“Authenticity You can tell the people who are peacocking and the people who are authentic ”

would be Kate Moss Kind of undone ” WILL THE MODELS JUDGE ME?

Zara Sykes, model: “I’ve talked to so many girls after the show who’ve said, ‘Did you see this person in the front row?’ Me? No As soon as I step out there, it’s a blank and once I’m backstage I don’t even remember what I did for the past 10 seconds You’re just walking back and forth without falling and that’s your mission That’s your job You don’t have time to look at anyone ”

ARE SNEAKERS OKAY?

Ashleigh Cometti, Viva beauty editor: “Just wear what you feel good in I’ll likely be teetering around in heels at some point,

No rules on outfits or accessories for any shows at NZ Fashion Week, but it’s an excuse to have fun with your outfit and wear something you love.

Kathryn Wilson, footwear designer

often you get a chance to push it in the daytime What we’re seeing a lot of at the moment is ‘skin first’ Really nicely caredfor skin that holds the makeup beautifully Absolutely start now The key would be regular exfoliation and good moisturiser Your skin will just get better and better ”

WHY DOES IT ALL FEEL SO INTIMIDATING?

Murray Bevan: “All the little monsters are from the industry and that’s because their egos get in the way The fashion industry has been built on a foundation of ‘you can’t sit with us’ personalities NZFW 2025 will hopefully be the opposite to this ”

Natalie Hollier, NZFW board member: “Fashion Week is a mix of business and pleasure buyers and media, to guests of the designer, and fashion fans who have purchased a ticket It can be crowded and busy, with people rushing between shows and networking For veterans, there is a familiarity on the global circuit If it’s your first time, just soak it all in and enjoy the buzz and the people-watching ”

WAIT IS IT OVER ALREADY? HOW LONG ARE THE SHOWS?

Natalie Hollier: “About 12 minutes for a designer collection show, but a group show like our Into the Archives: Two Decades of NZ Style can be up to 20 minutes, with looks from a dozen or more designers ”

TIPS FOR SURVIVING THE FULL SIX DAYS?

Matilda and Aialaisa, designers for Ah Tua: “Fashion week can be overwhelming but a cup of coffee can go a long way ” Yelena Bebich, Aleph Beauty: “Comfortable shoes, snacks in your bag and always a drink bottle (I like to put electrolytes in it) Those are my backstage tips Front of house? Just wear something you feel fab in and enjoy it Fashion Week can feel quite mysterious and otherworldly to people who aren’t in the industry But those designers just want to get their work out there ”

Dan Ahwa, NZFW board member and creative director: “A fedora ”

Madeleine Crutchley, Viva journalist: “An ensemble you want to talk about Pick pieces that mean something to you Whether it’s a hand-me-down, thriftflipped, handcrafted or purchased from a maker you love, enthusiasm for clothing and the people who make it is what we want to capture ”

GIVE ME SOME GOOD HAIR ADVICE

Leisa Welch, hair and makeup artist:

“Stay true to who you are a polished version of you If you’re not quite sure, a sleek bun or pony always looks good If it’s raining, and you want to still look good in two hours’ time, think about something that’s not too far from your natural hair If you’ve got naturally curly hair, work with it If it’s windy, put it up I like to look like I haven’t tried too hard My muse

but it’s part of how I present myself I’m not a casual dresser ” Kathryn Wilson, footwear designer: “No rules on outfits or accessories for any shows at NZ Fashion Week, but it’s an excuse to have fun with your outfit and wear something you love Definitely no judgment from us on heels v flats I like to wear colour on my feet something that lifts my spirits and elevates my outfit I’ll be looking forward to showing off some fun pink patent heels in the front row ”

HOW SHOULD I DO MY FACE (AND IS IT TOO LATE TO GET IT FRONTROW READY?)

Emma Peters, Aleph Beauty founder: “Fashion Week is someone’s chance to feel like either the best version of themselves, or the best version of their fashion selves This is the time to push it and it’s not

SHOULD I WEAR SOMETHING BY THE DESIGNER WHOSE SHOW I’M ATTENDING?

Dan Ahwa: “Nice but not essential It’s fashion you do you ”

Ashleigh Cometti: “This year, I want to wear New Zealand designers Viva has always wanted to champion New Zealand voices and, for me, it’s really important to align with that ”

Sammy Salsa: “When you look at someone who’s from your industry and you see them wearing New Zealand brands, there’s a respect to that I also feel there is a respect in wearing something that is non-recognisable, that looks like it’s from your wardrobe as opposed to pulled from a showroom ”

Natalie Hollier: There’s no bigger compliment It’s also a great way to get asked to sit in a spare front row seat, as designers want the runway imagery to feature their looks

Fitforthe FUTURE

Buyers, bookers and brands tell Tyson Beckett why the value of New Zealand Fashion Week is greater than what gets rung through the tills

Venue scouting, seating plans, music choice, set dressing, lighting design, model casting, hair, makeup and guest lists

Before you even get to the clothes, Fashion Week is a highly orchestrated affair

This year, New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria has an additional hurdle to clear: delivering an event that celebrates fashion’s contribution to the country’s economy, culture and communities while also returning value to an industry facing economic challenges

It’s a gauntlet organisers have laid down themselves Back next week, after a twoyear hiatus, NZFW’s refreshed board says its priority is “responding to, empowering, and collaborating with the ever-changing and dynamic fashion landscape, working in collaboration with the industry to achieve great outcomes”

The mission was pre-empted in Mindful Fashion’s 2024 Threads of Tomorrow report, which highlights that while “Aotearoa’s fashion, clothing and textiles industry is a large employer and makes a significant contribution to our economy, it’s essential we look to the future and start to grow business value opportunities outside of the old industry model”

The lead-up to NZFW has been coloured by buoyant collectivism – fashion figures, emerging and established, have been banding together, publicly buying into the ideas behind the event and hoping the buying public play their role in return It’s a fully fledged show of strength that prompts the question: why is New Zealand Fashion Week so important?

Vicki Taylor of fashion brand taylor and store The Shelter considers it a chance for the industry to project a positive energy, one “that celebrates going out, dressing up and having fun again It’s not often we get to enjoy so many one-off experiences that show the uniqueness and diversity of our local fashion scene ”

Even as a retailer, Superette buyer Josie Wiley recognises NZFW’s value is greater than what’s rung through the till “It’s about connection, storytelling and bringing that emotion back to our stores and customers ”

She says a local event – and more importantly, a good one – is vital in a world where we can see and buy almost anything from anywhere

“Our customers are incredibly informed, style-savvy, and demand the best We’re seeing more and more local designers delivering collections with international polish and a truly global lens ”

Vicki agrees and believes the event is an opportunity to amplify and endorse local talent thriving in noisy international

markets She believes there’s no reason New Zealand can’t seize the opportunity and become a Southern Hemisphere design destination akin to Denmark in the Northern Hemisphere “We have the talent, we just need the platforms ”

Copenhagen Fashion Week is an apt model for comparison Held in a city of 1 4 million people, it’s respected for its commitment to sustainability, innovation and accessibility, all values NZFW has identified as priorities for its work

Vicki views the bijou nature of our fashion community as a strength, not a constraint – it brings nimbleness

“Our creative talents are not so hindered by the formalities of bigger countries ”

Once an exclusive affair for industry

insiders, NZFW collections and shows are no longer designed solely for the eye of editors Instead, an era of encouraged experimentation means they broadcast to the fashion audience at large

Designers are increasingly engaging with the idea of shows giving back to their community, while also existing as an exercise in enticement In 2023, Zambesi held a highly visible golden hour runway show outdoors on the steps of the tidal pool in Wynyard Quarter, with front-row invitees sitting on street furniture

“We embraced the way anyone walking by could stand and watch our show,” founder Liz Findlay recalls “We love that accessibility ”

Though they could be viewed as occasions of optics, NZFW owner Feroz Ali champions such strategic democratisation, suggesting a “more inclusive and elastic format”

The explosion of digital content also delivers greater and democratised access: from runways themselves, designer interviews, street style and behind-thescenes footage Meanwhile, the public can buy tickets to most 2025 NZFW shows, meaning more opportunities for Aotearoa’s premier fashion festival to be experienced in person

On August 29, Kowtow will hold a designer clothes swap, reinforcing the circular practices at the heart of the brand’s ethos It also provides the public with an opportunity to engage with the event in a way that costs nothing

This mirrors international recalibrations Generally, fashion weeks no longer aim to serve just the trade arm of the industry, hoping their message will trickle down to customers Instead they are now reaching out to those retail consumers directly

This year, NZFW features sales-focused

trunk shows by Rebe and The Diamond Shop on the schedule alongside direct-toconsumer presentations such as The Best Shoppable Looks of NZFW 2025 show presented by Viva

Kahuria’s location matters when we think about its impact, too Held at a new downtown hub in Shed 10 on Auckland’s waterfront, local hoteliers, retailers and restaurateurs all stand to benefit from NZFW

Jeremy Hansen, director of communications and community for the nearby Britomart precinct, says there will be a direct connection between what’s being shown in Shed 10 and what’s in the shops across the road in Britomart and at Commercial Bay

“NZFW brings with it a fizzy sort of enthusiasm that encourages people to go out and eat and drink, as well as shop, before or afterwards All of it lends more energy to the central city as a whole, amplifying the pleasures of being here in the heart of all the action,” he says Commercial growth is a focus of NZFW and its ability to deliver future festivals

Giltrap Group has signed as the official naming rights sponsor of the event in a three-year partnership, while the recently opened Hotel Indigo is the event’s official accommodation partner

Earlier this year, the hotel commissioned Viva Next Gen designer Nicole Hadfield of Oosterom to create a bespoke collection of fashion accessories to complement its staff uniforms, and during Fashion Week the hotel will host The Apartment by Rebe, described as “a fully styled, immersive space; part showroom, part salon, part private residence, designed to express a distinct point of view on contemporary New Zealand luxury”

The hotel’s general manager Mathew

Simister says such alignments are savvy because they “build meaningful connections with new audiences and demonstrate our support for the artistry and vision that drives both fashion and our vibrant Auckland neighbourhood”

There is precedent for these landmark cultural events to diffuse economic benefits

The World of Wearable Art Show, held annually in Wellington since 2005, contributed almost $32 million to the region in 2024 In a year marred by retail closures, no one would deny the shopping

ongoing relevance of so many wellestablished fashion brands to see that they’re playing a long-term game ”

Karen Walker is one such brand In July, Karen told Viva that success as a NZ fashion brand in the current environment hinges on “understanding and serving your community and being able to do that well”

On August 28, she will return to the NZFW schedule after a 15-year hiatus, cohosting Life With Obstacles, a customerfacing runway show in collaboration with adidas

NZFW brings with it a fizzy sort of enthusiasm that encourages people to go out and eat and drink, as well as shop, before or afterwards. All of it lends more energy to the central city as a whole, amplifying the pleasures of being here in the heart of all the action.

Jeremy Hansen, Britomart precinct

to work overall and model fees have reduced over time, instead of increased with inflation, is adding to the pinch

“New Zealand was once considered quite a strong development market for international models We had a lot of magazines, editorial and testing You could come here, get great imagery for your book and head off to a larger market ” And for local models with international aspirations, fashion week remains a prized opportunity to gain runway experience “Without it, there aren’t many opportunities at all to get that here,”

Katherine says

Last year, Auckland student Izzy Cowdell walked exclusively for Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Before moving to Europe, Izzy appeared in a collaboration with Viva and Juliette Hogan to mark the designer’s 20th anniversary this year and walked for the designer’s runway show at New Zealand Fashion Week 2023

Katherine says NZFW also offers models exposure

sector a jump start in the run-up to Christmas, given consumer spending in the retail industries decreased by $144m for the June 2025 quarter

Jeremy hopes retailers see a lift in trade during NZFW but says it’s important to temper expectations because these are economically constrained times for many people

“One of the most important things NZFW does, I think, is strengthen connections between brands and their customers or potential customers And those bonds can be really strong and longlasting when they’re thoughtfully attended to You only need to look at the

Walker has said the brand has a “very clear” objective: “We’re using Fashion Week as one opportunity this year to connect with our audience ”

Things are evolving backstage, too Katherine Lowe, director of model and talent company Super Mgmt, says that in the 15 years she’s been involved with NZFW, the modelling industry has changed massively Increased accessibility means that although “it’s easier for a wider variety of people to become models, it’s also harder to make a living doing it because it’s so competitive”

The fact there are fewer opportunities

“International scouts will sometimes plan trips around smaller markets’ fashion weeks to see up-and-coming models and (fingers crossed) sign them overseas ”

By leveraging direct customer contact, the influence of social media, commercial opportunities and prestige media coverage, there’s potential for NZFW to have a bigger impact even when the industry is in a period of contraction And many involved believe it can be a Fashion Week for New Zealand, by New Zealand, held up for all to appreciate

In the Zambesi workroom, Liz says she hopes NZFW’s re-emergence “reminds our wider community that we have a great fashion industry here that should be celebrated and protected Support local ”

Fashion

In the first of a two-part series by Madeleine Crutchley, stalwarts of the fashion industry in Aotearoa nominate the names they’re most excited about right now

Categorisation is difficult in the tight-knit fashion industry of Aotearoa

Could you call Rory William Docherty, who is set to show at London Fashion Week in September, an emerging designer?

What about John Tanuvasa, the designer who showcased a solo show at Te Wiki Ahua O Aotearoa this year, will debut at New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria and recently won an award for his contribution to Pacific fashion?

Or Rhys Muru-King, who makes up one half of NVVR World, lectures at Whitecliffe School of Fashion and Design and is also showcasing jewellery and clothing on the official fashion week schedule?

They are all names highlighted by those in the industry as emerging, as ones to watch, as names to remember

According to designer and New Zealand Fashion Museum director Doris de Pont, there is a powerful energy in local fashion right now

“I am particularly impressed with the many young people making fashion at the moment, not just for what and how they are making but most especially how they are working together to showcase each other’s talents ”

She points to Te Wiki Ahua O Aotearoa, the enduring spirit of fashion on Karangahape Rd and ongoing pop-ups where designers share retail space

“I see that there is a societal move away from a ‘fashion industry’ to a model where value is attributed to the materials and the creative hands of fashion making ”

With this spirit in mind, established names in the local industry spotlight designers, creatives and collaborators they are most excited about right now

DES RUSK

Nominated by Chris Cherry of Workshop and designer Juliette Hogan

Fanfare surrounded the launch of Longform earlier this year The Tamaki Makaurau label, founded by Des Rusk, features a line of sturdy, simple merino garments What is so captivating about a merino wool label in this country, the land of the many white sheep?

For Chris Cherry, the founder of Workshop, Des’ focus on high-quality fabric and mindful merino sourcing sets his approach apart He says the line is “well considered, beautifully crafted” with “great functional design [and] immaculate attention to detail”

“[Helen and I] first met Des in the 90s when he was a fashion design graduate and part-time model We got to know him well when he went to work for Roger Wall at Wall Fabrics around 2012 Helen, in particular, worked closely with him, sourcing fabrics for the Helen

WHOTO WATCH

Cherry collection

“Des has always had a great eye for design and a strong aesthetic, he is extremely personable and this comes across in his collection, which is incredibly appealing in a very simple, relaxed and not trying too hard way ”

Juliette Hogan also champions Des’ work, recalling their early collaborations for her namesake label – Des was one of the key fabric suppliers for Juliette Hogan

“What excites me about Longform is its emphasis on enduring style and environmental responsibility The use of ZQ-certified merino wool, traceable to farms in New Zealand, ensures not only superior quality but also ethical sourcing practices

“Moreover, the natural properties of merino mean these garments require less frequent washing, thereby reducing

energy consumption over their life cycle

“My husband has become a devoted fan of the label, and I, too, am eager to see how Longform evolves in future collections It’s heartening to see such a thoughtful approach to fashion, where quality, sustainability and design converge seamlessly ”

FINN MORA-HILL

Nominated by Vicki Taylor, of Taylor and The Shelter, and stylist Sarah Stuart

Designer Finn Mora-Hill (Ngai Tahu) creates grungy and transformational garments for Fringes The designer, who is a Massey fashion graduate and Ahua producer, has caught the eye of many industry figures

Vicki Taylor spied Finn’s work on Ahua and iD Dunedin Fashion Week runways

and the two later met backstage

“Finn has a unique approach, based on his studies of workwear and functionality that means he merges his edgy style into practical garments

“It’s one thing to have an idea and create a garment, but another to learn how they fit the body, and make something that people want and love to wear For a young designer, Finn’s patterning and shapes work incredibly well on actual figures ”

Vicki applauds Finn’s quiet confidence and believes it is owed to a comprehensive understanding of pattern making and construction This was made evident when Vicki invited the designer to showcase his work to the team at The Shelter (where Fringes is now stocked)

“It can be incredibly daunting coming into a space with a group of knowledgeable, black-clad fashion lovers and he did a great presentation, quickly

winning the respect of my wider team ”

Stylist Sarah Stuart also noted Fringes as a standout among local and global designs at iD Dunedin After this first encounter, Finn’s work came to mind when she looked to style Jesse Mulligan for the 2025 Aotearoa Music Awards

“Finn is wildly talented, creative, efficient and technically brilliant He nailed the brief and over-delivered But what really set him apart was how calm, kind and collaborative he was throughout the process He is one of those people you instantly want to work with again ”

Beyond their collaborative relationship, Sarah has also been impressed by Finn’s eager disposition, pointing to his showing at nine shows across the country, production work with Kate Sylvester and role at Ahua

“His work feels like storytelling For

Jesse’s suit, he screen printed his own fabric using photographs of Auckland’s urban landscape Every detail is considered – his work has depth, intention and originality ”

JING HE ´

Nominated by designer Kristine Crabb

Based in Tamaki Makaurau, independent designer Jing He creates garments inspired by their upbringing, contemporary Asian art and pop culture, and a sense of rebelliousness

After studying at Massey University –interrogating ideals of femininity and marriage – Jing He launched a namesake, direct-to-consumer label of ready-to-wear and made-to-order clothing In the time since, the designer has been in workrooms for Kate Sylvester, Stolen Girlfriends Club and Michael Parekowhai

Kristine Crabb came across Jing He´’s work during a showing at The Keep

“I really admire their work and style I bought a perfect white leather studded belt which reminded me of Dolly Parton and now I’m obsessed

“They are so strong and fresh and very meticulous in construction, visual style, [and] style of business You can feel the love and tenacity in what they are doing

The pieces are surprising and eclectic and so sophisticated and elevated

“I actually can’t put my finger on [what makes it so distinct ] It has a sense of mystique, which I find is rare these days It has a confidence too, which is so nice to see and feel ”

Pieces by Jing He ´ were also featured in several Viva fashion shoots, including a particularly notable one with Lorde at Te Uru gallery

● Part two of Who to Watch will be published in Viva on August 27

REBOOT

New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria powers up for 2025 as local heritage designers continue their storied legacies and up-and-comers prepare for their runway debut.

3 3 2

St Auckland With special thanks to Murray Bevan, Cathy Chambers and the team at Auckland Live 4 4 5

Photographer / Guy Coombes

Styling / Sammy Salsa

Beauty editor / Ash Cometti

Makeup / Emma Peters for Aleph

Makeup assistant / Yelena Bebich

Hair / Leisa Welch

Model / Zara Sykes from 62 Models

Shot on location at Shed 10 89 Quay

Beauty RUNWAYREADY

Emma Peters talks to Ashleigh Cometti about what New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria means to her Aleph makeup brand

The year is 2023, and Aleph founder/CEO Emma Peters is working fastidiously to create a poppy makeup look backstage at Kate Sylvester

Not only was it the first New Zealand Fashion Week show Emma had designed and executed using the New Zealandmade, natural makeup line she developed, but it also marked the launch of the Gloria Cheek/Lip & Tint, a shade developed in collaboration with Kate to capture the essence of the brand

Two years later, Emma and the Aleph team are preparing for their busiest New Zealand Fashion Week yet, creating the looks for five shows

This includes runway shows for Claudia Li, the Breast Cancer Cure Designer Showcase and Untouched World, alongside a private showing of Taylor’s SS25 collection at The Shelter and a penthouse presentation by REBE

With less than a week until showtime, Emma’s excitement is palpable

“ In the old days, I worked behind the scenes with these global brands I never dreamed I could pull together my own

brand to support these shows,” she says

“We’ve got a pop-up shop happening at the same time It’s going to be a bit of a juggling week but it’s going to be phenomenal ”

Emma says she’s called on a handful of artists from makeup collective The Peach Club to work alongside her internal team to make it work

Emma says show attendees can expect to see looks underpinned by Aleph’s core philosophy, one where “skin always takes the lead, appearing balanced, radiant and rooted in natural beauty”

Emma says the new Aleph Smoothing

Skin Tint plays a major role in skin prep this year, thanks to what she calls its “juicy skin plumping and blurring effects”

Texture looks set to reign, with skilful application ensuring each designer’s vision is brought to life

“For designers like Taylor, the vision includes edgier moments with diffused, smoked-out eyes that seamlessly blend into radiant skin,” says Emma

At Untouched World, the beauty brief is “a soft, ochre-toned smokey eye effortlessly fades into the skin, enhancing

a natural, lit-from-within complexion for an ethereal quality”

The secret to creating these otherworldly beauty looks? Aleph’s new professional-grade brushes

In keeping with the hybrid nature of Aleph’s makeup line, the four new brushes are multi-use including one that helps diffuse creams and powders into skin

Fans of the brand will be delighted to learn there’s also a new lip brush that comes with a metal cap to store on the go

Beauty lovers tempted to try a runway look in real life can visit Aleph’s pop-up at 8 Brown St, Ponsonby, for two weeks from August 18-31

Shoppers can receive makeup

consultations with Aleph’s artistry team, attend hosted events with New Zealand Fashion Week designers or purchase products to add to their makeup arsenal

Emma says the pop-up is the perfect chance to try Aleph’s multi-functional makeup, glean application techniques from the pros, or bring in a favourite product to colour match

Next month, Emma and her team are bound for New York for BITE, a trade show to connect top beauty and wellness players from across the globe

Her trip to the Big Apple will be followed by a stint in Los Angeles in October for “a retreat/sustainability summit/trade show” where destination spas and hotels come together with other sustainablyminded businesses Aleph is currently the only makeup brand in attendance

Emma and her team will meet with her US-based retailers to introduce them to a behind-the-scenes training portal that connects them to the New Zealand-based Aleph team and provides training modules to ensure retail assistants are confident to share the brand with customers

“I think this gives us a real point of difference; it’s what’s going to help us connect with smaller retailers,” Emma says Connection and consciousness are the secret sauce that ensures Aleph remains a step ahead in the makeup game

Triumphantreturn

After a three-year break, New York Fashion Week

stalwart Claudia Li is set to make a return this time on home soil at New Zealand Fashion Week, writes Carolyn Enting

There’s one name on the upcoming New Zealand Fashion Week schedule that people in the know are extremely excited about Claudia Li

Her clothes have been worn by Lady Gaga, Bella Hadid, Julia Stiles, Venus Williams and Michelle Obama, and her past collections shown at New York Fashion Week up until 2021 feature on Vogue Runway It’s an impressive oneline resume for the Chinese New Zealander designer who’s spent most of her fashion career abroad

The Covid pandemic brought her home to New Zealand in 2020 and like many others over this period she used it as a time for reflection Li was feeling burnout from the never-ending cycle of producing fashion collections and questioning the

mass production of the fashion industry on a global scale

“I was doing four collections a year, and at some point I had to stop and ask why? Why are we making this much? Creatively, it didn’t make sense anymore It wasn’t sustainable not for the planet, not for my mental health, not for anyone involved I just couldn’t keep going at that pace ”

So, Li took a three-year break and over that time she has been working on what she describes as a very intentional collection that she will be releasing on the runway in Auckland’s Shed 10 at New Zealand Fashion Week on Wednesday, August 27

“I’ve always followed my instincts and stayed open to where things take me I don’t like to force anything This time

was no different I’d been slowly building this collection during my break, and when the opportunity came up, it just felt right

The timing made sense, and I was ready,” she explains Li is a big believer that if you are open about things, good things will come your way and taking this approach throughouther career has led to some fortuitous stepping stones for the hardworking talented designer

While she was studying fashion design at Central Saint Martins, her patterncutting tutor and mentor, Patrick Lee Yow, told her about a new master’s programme at Parsons, New York and recommended she apply

Her 2012 graduation collection, released in 2013 at Parsons, caught the attention of Lady Gaga’s studio, which

reached out wanting to borrow one of the looks for Gaga to wear As a student, Li couldn’t afford to send such a huge garment by courier, so she delivered it herself, travelling by foot and subway As she waited in reception, she overhead that Haus of Gaga was looking for assistants Li thought, “why not”, applied and got the job and worked at Haus of Gaga for two years

“It was my first job out of school, and it wasn’t exactly a traditional fashion design job, but it was wildly creative I learned so much It was chaotic but in the best way, definitely one of the most fun jobs I’ve ever had,” says Li

While she was working at Haus of Gaga she received an email from British designer Jonathan Anderson (recently appointed creative director of Christian Dior women’s, men’s and haute couture) LVMH had just invested in his company, they were expanding and looking for a womenswear designer Initially, Anderson asked Li to do some design projects, which led to a job offer So, Li packed her bags and moved back to London where she worked as a womenswear designer at JW Anderson

During this period she was in a difficult place mentally and returned to New York

“A lot of people didn’t understand why I would walk away from such a promising job they thought I was being young or reckless But I actually left because I was going through serious depression Unless you’ve experienced something like that yourself, it’s hard to truly get it,” she says Back in New York she took a year off to take care of her mental health before feeling ready to launch her own label in 2015 Li and her small team worked from her apartment, and it took two years (four collections) at New York Fashion Week before she got her first article in US Vogue Her collections from Fall 2018 to Spring 2021 ready-to-wear feature on Vogue Runway and she’s happy with them all bar one “I named a skirt after it “Just

Another Pleated Skirt”, because it’s not, it’s knitted ”

Not only did Lady Gaga wear her ginormous graduation outfit but she’s worn Claudia Li many times since, including the time Gaga met His Holiness the Dalai Lama “It was wild because I was reading a book by the Dalai Lama at the time, and then my publicist texted me saying, ‘OMG, look at this!’ That was a really cool moment ”

Bella Hadid’s stylist pulled half of Li’s 2017 collection after New York Fashion Week and Hadid wore five or six different Claudia Li looks at Paris and London Fashion Weeks during that month, which was great publicity for the label

The jacket she made for Michelle Obama was a custom piece and the atelier

was to become her future career

Li’s design aesthetic is angular and sculptural, and she’s known for her innovative use of textiles and silhouettes

“When I painted, it was always about shapes, bold colours, and texture I was really into mixed media I love David Hockney and Matisse I’m not sure if that shows in my work, but those were my references In fashion school, my favourite thing was draping For my graduation [from Parsons], I needed a lot of space because I was working with these giant felt pieces There was a lot of craft involved too I stitched tens of thousands of yarns into the felt and hand-painted them The pieces were massive, and the garments were humongous

“A lot of people have described my work

I feel that supporting smaller businesses most of the time family-run is more sustainable. That’s how things used to be, but a lot of people have forgotten that.

Claudia Li

‘Can we move back to New Zealand?’ Already a global citizen, Li thought why not She was raised in Singapore and New Zealand before moving from Tamaki Makaurau to study fashion in London age 17, then New York, moving back to London, then back to New York This is a beautiful second New Zealand chapter and she doesn’t have plans to leave anytime soon

It’s also her opportunity to present a different fashion story One that she calls a “slow fashion movement”, that’s steeped in sustainability, craft and one collection “It’s more intentional and at a much slower pace,” says Li

She’s spent time looking for materials and going through her archive of patterns to see what she’s done so far and getting to the essence of the brand

Meanwhile, Li and her team in New York have continued to produce staple Claudia Li pieces like her infamous 3D knit “Just Another Pleated Skirt”, and if you visit The Shelter in Auckland, you might get lucky finding an archive piece for sale, if Li can let it go

was provided a mannequin with Obama’s exact measurements It’s now one of Li’s permanent styles and called the Michelle Pintuck jacket However, seeing people in her clothes, not just celebrities, is what makes Li most happy

Li was an avid painter before deciding to train in fashion On her mother’s side everyone painted or played a musical instrument while her father is an art dealer She grew up going to gallery openings and observing her mother saving up to buy quality garments and the ritual of dressing up Her grandmother was an extremely good sewer and used to make clothes that Li designed for her Barbie, which Li muses was probably the first hint that fashion

as architectural, which I take as a compliment,” says Li “But to me, it’s more about shapes and volume I don’t really think of it as architectural That said, I do love architecture and I did marry an architect, so maybe it’s rubbed off a little ”

Ten years ago, she unexpectedly met her husband, Jae, through friends which was the last thing she expected and proved it is possible to meet a good man in New York Pre-Covid, they attended a friend’s wedding in New Zealand and Jae, who loves the outdoors, hiking and nature, said ‘I’d like to live here one day’ That moment came in 2020 Life in New York during the pandemic was grim and one day when Li came home from her studio Jae said,

She continues to work with her New York-based pattern maker and sewers and sourcing fabrics from small family-run fabric mills in Italy, France and Spain, as well as deadstock Japanese fabrics Production runs of her garments remain small and are produced in New York and Italy and she’s just started working with manufacturers in Wellington and Auckland

“I feel that supporting smaller businesses most of the time family-run is more sustainable That’s how things used to be, but a lot of people have forgotten that

“For me, relationships and partnerships are everything because it’s about helping each other grow and thrive ” Li hopes that independent labels like hers will play a role in helping shift the industry towards a more sustainable future and just “make less”

When Adrian Williams pulls a protective sheet off a couture dress he has brought in for a Viva fashion shoot, there is a collective gasp from the model, the stylist, the makeup artist, the photographer and me

Once model Hope Phillips slips into the black and gold-beaded full-length gown it’s obvious we’re looking at something extraordinary It fits and falls beautifully, with slight padding on each hip and on the shoulder straps adding to the intrigue It’s very comfortable to wear, Hope tells us

Adrian looks both pleased and relieved

This dress has a backstory He found the fabric during a trip to South Africa in May, paying for overweight luggage on his return trip to New Zealand The seams of the dress needed to be hammered flat so Adrian spent countless hours handsewing extra beads down the seams

Now 37, Adrian talks about his days as a student in Cape Town when he had to sneak into Cape Peninsula University of Technology with the help of friends who had swipe cards

Longwalk tohisown collection

He had turned up one day armed with a ring binder of sketches drawn on lined paper torn out of exercise books A lecturer told him to come back the next day to lectures, even though applications had long closed and Adrian had no money to pay fees

“Most of my friends smuggled me into the buildings The lecturers knew I wasn’t in the system but they still let me sit in the class ”

Eventually the university’s administration caught up with him and he was evicted Desperate to keep studying, he approached every company he could think of until eventually one offered him a three-year scholarship that covered his fees and art supplies

It’s been a slow road to reach where he is now, producing his own brand Adrion Atelier and showing at New Zealand Fashion Week (NZFW) later this month for the first time

Adrian doesn’t begrudge the years he spent working for other brands, learning skills and tricks of the trade that even university couldn’t teach him

After gaining his degree in fashion, he worked for Kluk CGDT, a Cape Town

South African/Kiwi designer Adrian Williams was once too poor to afford uni fees. Now he’s showing his fashion brand for the first time at New Zealand Fashion Week, reports Jane Phare.

luxury design studio run by Malcolm Kluk and Christiaan Gabriel du Toit, learning design, pattern making, and the tricks and tweaks that make a garment fit, and enhance a body shape

It was a 2015 trip to visit family in New Zealand that made him reconsider his future

He settled in Dunedin and answered an ad to make dust-cover bags for Jessie Wong, founder of luxury leather goods label Yu Mei That job didn’t last long Shortly after Adrian joined Jessie’s business in Wellington she realised his talent was wasted making dust bags

He stayed with Yu Mei for the next seven years, eventually becoming head of design for the company

Adrian also develops design samples for Kiwi-founded Entire Studios, a luxury fashion brand based in Los Angeles, including one of three “Bride of Frankenstein” garments worn by Kylie Jenner for Halloween in 2022

He’s always dreamed of creating his own brand and in 2023 took the plunge, launching his brand Adrion Atelier By that time he had moved to live on a farm near Hahei Beach in the Coromandel with his partner, Mark, a dairy farmer

As for the name of his brand, his mother wanted to call her son Adrion (pronounced

Ar-dree-on) but decided once he was born it would be too confusing and named him Adrian instead He decided to reclaim the name when he launched his brand

Right now Adrian is busy finishing the range he will show at NZFW on August 27, and for private viewings from August 25 to August 30 at SO/Auckland Hotel

His show will be a mix of deconstructed

I feel like the status game is shifting, brands can only mean so much now. It’s definitely an era of finding the new

Adrian Williams, Adrion Atelier

garments, cropped blazers, oversized coats plus a collection of couture evening dresses

Adrian is wearing his own designedand-made clothes the day of the Viva shoot

a loose black cotton T-shirt topped with a tan-coloured cropped jacket and flared black pants made from a wool cashmere

blend “I love luxury fabrics especially how they feel on your skin ”

Adrian also wants his clothes to feel comfortable, whether it’s a couture dress, a boned bridal gown or the black Adrion Atelier pants he’s wearing

He points to a small amount of elastic in the back of his flared pants, added for comfort

Adrian wants to be known for unique pieces and limited runs And he hopes to encourage self-expression through his clothes

He’s aware Kiwi designers are up against high-end international brands attached to apparent status But he senses there’s a shift away from the big luxury brands, that mass production has undermined their exclusivity

“I feel like the status game is shifting, brands can only mean so much now ”

People want to find clothes that are more unique, more “intimate” and express their personalities, he says

“It’s definitely an era of finding the new ”

Adrian has been diplomatic so far about the big designer brands, but in the end he can’t help himself With a laugh he says, “At the end of the day it’s high-end fast fashion in my eyes, it’s Glassons for the rich ”

Soi Chicken, Mieng , Hormok Mapraw

Ieat a lot of Northeastern Thai food

because Isaan Thai on Hobson St is my emergency lunch stop I presume everybody has a place like this near their office you forget to bring a sandwich from home, you don’t have time to hike to the salad shop, and so you pick up your mobile phone and the takeaway menu and proceed to disgrace yourself Not that there’s anything inherently unhealthy about Thai food, it’s just that one dish never seems quite enough but eating two makes you feel like taking a shame-nap afterwards

So when I heard about Sa-On doing this style of cooking in Henderson, I thought I was in for more of the same: a larb here, a green papaya salad there the difference would be that I was enjoying it in a restaurant rather than al desko

In fact, Sa-On’s menu is something different, and quite exciting They have those Isaan standards, of course, but they also have some signature dishes which make it really worth visiting in person

Take the Sa-On noodles, which are twominute style, fried in a sweet soy-based sauce and heaped back into their plastic Insta-pot, the noodles spilling out over the

top Balancing on the noodles is a beef short rib bone, the meat itself having been braised to gelatinous perfection then sliced and tossed through the noodles If that all sounds indulgent but a little nutritionally bereft I counted eight different varieties of vegetable that had been tossed into the wok as well, plus the absolute best thing you can find in a Thai dish: fresh green peppercorns, like a tiny bunch of grapes, tucked into the noodles as a spicy surprise gift

The restaurant itself is nice enough to spend a couple of hours in, though you wouldn’t want to live there It’s a long, comfortable room with a bar at the back and a door through to a bathroom area that feels more like something you’d offer a hostage than a customer I don’t think you need flash (i e painted) bathrooms to make a restaurant great, but it does unfortunately affect the Viva scoring system, which I’ve pushed to its limits given the service is minimal and the only wine on offer is “House”

Back to the food, then, which is good enough for you to put aside all of the above

There were only two of us, but I think a table of four to six would be perfect there are so many incredible-looking dishes, and they make it even harder by putting a Five-Star Recommendation next to about a dozen Even if you order perfectly, you will go home feeling like you’ve missed out I went for spring rolls, snack wraps, those noodles, a soup, a curry and rice That in itself was a feast, but missed some key genres grilled meat and salad among them We took half of the food home with us and I concluded that we’d done as well as we could have on your behalf I don’t think you should miss the grilled prawns, served room temperature on a betel leaf with toasted coconut and a little sweet ginger-peanut sauce that makes them incredibly moreish

I love a spicy-sour Tom Yum soup and this is the best I’ve come across Served in a metal “hot pot”, it’s comes with your choice of protein (we had pork) and rather than the uniform coconut-milky texture you may be used to in cheaper places, this one is splotched with spicy chilli oil, with plenty of lime juice in the mix

Sa-On

Cuisine: Thai

Address: 401 Great North Rd, Henderson

Drinks: Fully licensed

Reservations: Accepted

From the menu: Spring rolls $12 99, Roasted prawn $16 99, Sa-On noodles $32 99, Tom Yum (pork) $23 99, Seafood curry $30 99

Rating: 15/20

Score: 0-7 Steer clear 8-12

Disappointing, give it a miss 13-15 Good, give it a go 16-18

Great, plan a visit 19-20 Outstanding, don’t delay

One of my favourite dishes was the seafood curry Unlike any curry I’d come across before, it features mussels in their shell, squid rings and prawns in a thick pink sauce, which I couldn’t quite get my head around

It wasn’t a gravy, more like a sort of custard was it silken tofu? No, egg Emulsified with coconut milk, I think, with perhaps a little red curry paste for flavour

There isn’t much for dessert, but you may find a non-alcoholic cocktail or tea does the trick, arriving in a sundae-style glass, with plenty of milk and sugar in the mix I didn’t have the nerve to order the “Pink Nipple Milk” but we settled on the “Thai Milk Tea”, which was indulgent enough that we couldn’t finish it

A sign on the wall reads “Men: no shirt, no service/ Women: no shirt, free drinks!” I’m not sure that quite captures the vibe of the Sa-On experience, but it does say something about the quirky nature of the restaurant

And, quirky or not, you’ll struggle to find better Thai food in New Zealand

Meat three ways

Don’t go past these chicken, pork and lamb dishes packed full of flavour, writes Angela Casley

CHICKEN WITH PRESERVED LEMON

Enhancing

Serves 4

2 Tbsp

4

2

1

3

2

1

2

1

1

1

3

4.

PORK SHOULDER CROQUETTES

There is a bit of fluffing involved in making these, but they are then ready to be cooked in no time at all Or, if you prefer, enjoy them for dinner and freeze some for the following week

2 tsp sesame oil

2 Tbsp flour

1 cup of chicken stock 1 cup grated parmesan

2 Tbsp sweet chilli

1⁄2-1 cup oil to fry

Makes 16

About 700g of pork shoulder

1 onion, chopped finely

3 cloves garlic, crushed 20g butter

LAMB TAGINE WITH PUMPKIN AND PRUNES

To serve, chutney or jelly

Coating

1⁄2 cup flour to dust

1 egg mixed with 2 Tbsp water 1-2 cups breadcrumbs

Using an ovenproof dish suitable for your element eliminates the need for extra dishes That’s fantastic; after the initial preparation, the tagine is left to develop wonderful flavours in the oven Then, just enjoy

Serves 4

3 Tbsp oil

800g diced lamb

2 cloves garlic, crushed

A few strands of saffron soaked in 2 Tbsp water

2 tsp each paprika, cumin, coriander

1 cinnamon quill

2 cups vegetable stock

1 tsp salt and pepper

300g pumpkin, peeled

100g prunes

1 cup chopped coriander

To serve couscous

Method

1 Preheat the oven to 150C

2 Heat the oil in a large pan Add the lamb in two batches, browning it all over Place everything back in the pan

3 Add the garlic, saffron, spices, cinnamon quill, vegetable stock, salt and pepper Cover and place into the oven for 2 hours

4 Then add the pumpkin and prunes for a further 1 hour

5 Remove, check the seasoning, fold through the coriander and serve hot with couscous

Method

1 Preheat the oven to 150C Place the pork in an ovenproof dish with 1 cup of chicken stock Season it, add the onion and garlic, cover tightly, and place it in the oven for twoand-a-half hours Check; if it is falling off the bone, it is ready Remove and shred with two forks

2 To make the base of the croquettes, warm the butter and sesame oil in a frying pan Add the flour, stirring to combine Pour in the stock from the pork juices or another source, stirring until it thickens Remove from the heat

3 Combine the shredded pork with the base, parmesan, and chilli, ensuring they mix well Roll the mixture into croquettes 4-5cm long

4 Dust the croquettes in flour, dip them in the egg mixture, then roll them in breadcrumbs Refrigerate until ready to cook

5 To cook, heat 2cm of oil in a frying pan

Cook in batches, rolling to ensure even colour coverage

6 Serve warm with pickle or chutney I used my home-made guava jelly