Travel 26th August 2025

» FIJI'S CORAL COAST

Surfing, diving and watching rugby

» NEW HOTSPOTS

Unusual places that are trending now

» TRY TURKMENISTAN

The least visited country in the world

Beachfront blissin thePacific

Fly Economy return from Auckland to Rarotonga with Air NZ and enjoy a five-night escape at five-star Pacific Resort Aitutaki Stay in a Beachfront Ultimate Bungalow and enjoy daily breakfast plus an NZ$250 Food & Beverage Credit per room The package includes return private airport transfers and return domestic flights to Aitutaki from Rarotonga From $4839pp this deal is on sale until August 31

Selected travel dates are January 27 to February 15 and March 1 to 15 2026 A surcharge of $20 applies to travel from Thursday to Saturday Room rates are subject to availability and change Book viatravel-associates co nz/luxury-holidays/product/ 21495022or call0800 482776

available for an additional $120 for three nights bookable from August 26

Visitqthotels com tobook

Francein fullbloom

See the Gardens of France on a tour escorted by renowned New Zealand horticulturist Jack Hobbs from May 14 to June 3 2026 Explore 18 hand-picked French gardens and historical sites including the Gardens of Versailles and Monet s Garden Travel aboard an air-conditioned coach

and free guided tours and activities including dolphin safari outer reef snorkelling trips, basket-weaving lessons and more Valid for sale until September 1 unless sold out Travel from February 1 to 10 and February 26 to March 26 2026 Book athot.co.nz/fiji-lomaniisland orcall 0800 713715

Amonth inChina

Discover the best of China on this 27-day journey from Beijing to Shanghai Walk the Great Wall marvel at Xi an s Terracotta Warriors and enjoy a four-night cruise along the Yangtze River Visit Chengdu to see the giant pandas explore Stone Forest and drift past karst peaks on a Li River cruise before soaking up the charm of Yangshuo s countryside Finish your adventure in Shanghai, where modern marvels meet rich heritage Pricing starts from $9130pp with selected travel dates from September 2025 to October 2027 This all-inclusive package has return Economy flights accommodation meals as per the itinerary sightseeing entrance fees transfers English-speaking national escorts for

groups of 10 or more local guides travel guides and specialist advice from World Travellers consultants Sale ends September 30 Book atworldtravellers co nz/deals/findjoy-in-embracing-the-extraordinary/ wendy-wu/grand-tour-of-china

Pamper yourpup instyle

QT Hotels & Resorts is celebrating International Dog Day on August 26 with a revamp of Pup Yeah! its dog-friendly stay for pampered pooches QT Hotels in New Zealand and Australia welcome dogs of any size Rooms feature pet essentials from New Zealand s botanical grooming label smith&burton, hand-baked treats from St Argo and in-room dining dishes specially created for dogs Each room includes a Cub bed with orthopaedic memory foam Guests can explore using the Strut Your Pup digital map highlighting local walks pup-friendly parks cafes and photo opportunities This pup package is

through regions including Tours Saint-Emilion

Toulouse Montpellier Marseille and Cote d Azur to Nice and savour world-class wines at one of Saint-Emilion s historic vineyards This allinclusive tour includes return international flights and guided sightseeing Prices start from $17 519pp twin-share

To reserveyour place,visit pukekohetravel co nz/escorted-tours/alltours/gardens-of-france html orcall 0800 785386

Cruising »

Swap crammed for cruisy

Hop off the beaten track and board an expedition cruise, writes Tiana Templeman

If you like the idea of cruising but aren’t keen on over-touristed destinations or busy cities, expedition cruising gives you all the adventure, minus the crush and the crowds

On an expedition cruise, you’ll venture beyond typical experiences such as a “flop and drop” resort stay, swapping them for a front-row seat to the natural world and a team of expert guides Plus, you only need to unpack once and the wine at lunch and dinner is on the house

TRANSIT A GREAT CANAL

Swap the Panama Canal for the Corinth Canal

The Panama Canal is used by cruise ships carrying up to 4000 passengers and is a convenient way to get from one ocean to another using modern engineering But sailing through the Corinth Canal in Greece is like stepping back in time Emperor Nero began this canal’s construction, but it wasn’t completed until the late 1800s, such was the challenge of building one of the world’s narrowest and most dramatic canals On a nine-night Classic Greece: To Antiquity and Beyond cruise on board Aurora Expeditions’ brand-new ship, the Douglas Mawson, you’ll transit this historic canal bathed in Mediterranean sunshine, walk in the footsteps of Nero and Hercules, and stay in luxury worthy of a god aurora-expeditions com

SNORKEL THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Swap a Whitsundays resort stay for a Great Barrier Reef expedition cruise

A resort stay can look about as appealing as a rainy day when you compare it to a Great Barrier Reef expedition cruise Classy accommodation? Check Multiple bars? Check Great Barrier Reef snorkel trips? Included in your fare, with all your meals and quality Kiwi wine with lunch and dinner With a state-of-the-art

From top Corinth Canal in Greece is one of the world’s narrowest canals; swap a typical safari for a cruise safari; kayakers on Georgian Bay, the northeastern arm of Lake Huron in Ontario

glass-bottom boat and snorkelling and diving platform, there is a reef exploration activity to suit every passenger, even those who would rather stay dry Glass-bottom boat tours with the ship’s marine biologist are a highlight and Coral Expeditions has exclusive mooring rights on many of the reefs the ship visits The coral viewing is superb and there’s no overcrowding as Coral Discoverer carries a maximum of 72 passengers coralexpeditions com

SPOT THE ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA

Swap the South Africa safari camp for a 20-night luxury cruise with multiple safaris

Swap the Big Five for the Big Seven in South Africa and tick the great white shark and southern right whale off your list on a cruise from Cape Town to Mahe, Seychelles You’ll bed down in a plush room on Silversea’s Silver Cloud, which is nothing like a campsite Choose from the thrill of an opentop game drive, gliding past native birdlife on a canoe safari, cruising past the largest concentration of hippos in South Africa, a full-day photo safari with a gourmet bush breakfast to sustain your snapping, and more silversea com

SOAK IN NIAGARA FALLS

Swap a day trip from Toronto for a sailing trip around the Great Lakes with Viking Expeditions

Combine fresh air with fascinating stories as you explore all five of North America’s Great Lakes on a 14-night Viking Expeditions cruise between Toronto and Duluth in Minnesota (or vice versa) Along with spending a day at

Niagara Falls instead of just a few hours, the itinerary for this expedition cruise combines natural wonders such as the untamed beauty of Georgian Bay with visits to legendary cities like Detroit, where cars and Motown share the spotlight From kayaking over historic shipwrecks, hiking to waterfalls, and sampling local flavours on food and wine tours, this sailing offers something for everyone vikingcruises com au

EXPLORE SCOTLAND’S RUGGED BEAUTY

Swap a self-drive holiday for a trip around the Scottish Isles by sea

The weather in Scotland’s Hebrides islands can be unpredictable, but so is life, and you’ll get to enjoy it to the full, along with plenty of whisky and wildlife, on a 10-night round-trip expedition cruise from Glasgow with HX Expeditions The Hebrides is the perfect spot to see ancient standing stones, surround yourself with Gaelic culture and sip a peaty single malt You can also spot all of Scotland’s “Big Five” in the Hebrides (unlike Africa, many of these animals are cute and none of them will eat you) And, because the captain is doing the driving, you won’t be delayed by meandering Highland cows when you’re travelling from one destination to another travelhx com

RELAX IN TROPICAL BALI

Swap a seven-night island stay for a sevennight sailing around Komodo National Park and Indonesia

You’ll get a more exciting Bali holiday than a “flop and drop” resort stay when you’re spotting Komodo dragons, hiking through national parks, and swimming with whale sharks Departing from Bali (or the island of Flores), this cruise

brings adventure seekers, wildlife spotters, ecotravellers and luxury lovers together on a journey of discovery through the Gili Islands and Komodo National Park Aqua Blu, a classy expedition yacht catering to 30 passengers, has a strict “no shoes” policy and is more castaway chic than cocktail frock, making it perfect for a laid-back Bali break aquaexpeditions com

Lagoon-sideleisureatTheRarotongan

Seven nights on the stunning Aroa Beach, where every day ends in a spectacular South Pacific sunset.

Theres something about the Cook Islands that instantly slows your heartbeat Maybe it s the friendly warmth of the locals or the way the horizon stretches forever Whatever it is you ll find it in abundance at The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Lagoonarium – and with this adults-only My Holiday package you can enjoy it in blissful peace

The seven-night escape is made for those wanting to unplug completely while soaking up Vitamin D From the moment you land in Rarotonga your getaway runs on island time You ll be greeted at the airport and taken straight to your Beachside Room a private hideaway just steps from the sand The décor is relaxed and coastal the air scented with frangipani and your balcony is the perfect place for your first drink of the trip

Days at The Rarotongan are delightfully unstructured The jewel in the resort’s crown is its private marine reserve – a natural lagoon teeming with colourful reef fish curious parrotfish and majestic turtles and eagle rays cruising by Simply wade in with a snorkel or drift lazily and let the current guide you This package includes Captain Tamas glass-bottom boat cruise on Muri Lagoon perhaps the best way to view the underwater wonders with a few snorkel stops, a fresh BBQ lunch on a motu plus coconut-husking and pareu-tying demos

When in a more sedentary mood claim a lounger beneath a palm, book in hand, and let the ocean soundtrack do its work – cocktail optional but recommended But it s not all about staying put – you also have the freedom to explore at your own pace Wander into nearby villages for markets and crafts or hire a scooter to circle the island – nothing is more than half an hour away

Your My Holiday special includes daily breakfast with the likes of tropical fruit island pastries and eggs cooked to your liking It s the ideal fuel before a morning

on the water After brekkie, grab free snorkel kayak or stand-up paddleboard gear to explore the protected lagoon, where crystal-clear all-tide waters brim with vibrant marine life

When evening rolls in, sunsets over Aroa Beach make for a stunning nightly show Order a drink sink into a beachfront chair and watch the sky melt into pink and gold Dinner can be as laid-back or as celebratory as you wish – from casual bites with toes in the sand to fine dining with live island music

The adults-only escape includes an invitation to the Management Sunset Cocktail Party where you can sip and mingle as the horizon glows gold You ll enjoy a bonus Island Night Buffet & Show for two – a lively evening of Polynesian flavours drumming and dance – plus a complimentary pizza and drinks on the beach A bucket of ice-cold beer is also yours to share and a chilled bottle of sparkling wine will be waiting in your room on arrival

From $2499 per person you ll get seven nights in a Beachside Room return flights with checked luggage return airport transfers and all of the above for a total bonus value up to $1200

Whether you re after romance reconnection or simply a break from the noise of life, The Rarotongans lagoon, laidback charm and My Holiday perks make this an ideal way to exhale

Scan the QR code to view the deal

Or call My Holiday on 0800 654 -180 to book your escape

A little help from a

A guide helps Sarah Pollok navigate Portugal to find a special cafe, a hole-in-the-wall restaurant, the best ice cream and the perfect lookouts

The portly man wildly swings his hands as if conducting a hidden choir, ruddy face scrunched into a frown as he shouts to the large crowd of bus passengers about what side to load their luggage Or, perhaps he is telling us where to sit, or maybe saying I can’t eat my tuna empanada on board In all honesty, he could be saying this bus is no longer heading to Porto, but Sweden, and I would have zero clue due to the fact he’s bellowing in Spanish and doesn’t look like the kind of chap who will give an English version, even if he could Standing in the bus station outside Santiago de Compostela, I experience, in real time, Europeans’ indifference towards queues as passengers shove and shout in response to the driver’s clearly important speech Looking around, I see a frazzled English woman yelling “Porto, Porto!” to the disinterested bus driver, clearly trying to discern whether the bus number on her ticket was the bus number she should take (it isn’t) However, I am the picture of tranquillity, not

because I know what’s going on, but because I don’t have to

Elbowing to the front, Fernanda Cardoso chats to the driver and learns our bus to Porto has changed (for no discernible reason), so we’re to hop on the one beside it and only store our luggage in the left compartment Clambering on (with the stressed Brit in tow), I savour the delight of tucking my brain into my backpack and mindlessly following our Intrepid tour leader It’s not the first time our small travel group have followed her blindly, and it won’t be the last

If you’re like many travellers, you crave immersion when travelling abroad You want to get right up close to the culture, the people, the way things are done, to revel in the novelty The challenge is that, while foreign-speaking countries tend to be rich in said difference, we’re always one click removed A handful of phrases, gestures and blank smiles can only get you so far It’s possible to make a point or glean information without the words but the mental load can be exhausting as you try to catch the right bus or order a meal Things can turn panicky too, if there’s a sense of urgency or severity; a departing train you should be on, etiquette rule you’re breaking or allergy that must be catered to It’s in these places that language becomes a glass door, ever so slightly muting the heart of a culture It’s also why, as I found, in the chaotic, vibrant country

of Portugal, a local guide proves invaluable

Logistics aren’t the only advantage of having Fernanda as our tour leader Two days later, while travelling from Porto to Arraiolos, I find myself in a dim tavern in Castelo Branco In this hole-in-the-wall town, we duck into a literal holein-the-wall restaurant I would never have discovered alone

Even if I did happen on it solo, the total lack of English, from the chalkboard menu to the busy tables, would’ve been intimidating No one wants to be the obnoxious visitor disrupting locals and vexing waitstaff Thankfully, Fernanda nabs us a table, translates the specials, orders us a feast of grilled cod and juicy olives, finishing with farofias (a cloud of sweet egg-white meringue with custard), all for just ¤12 She waves down the staff, asking for extra bread and checking a dish is vegetarian; things we would have fumbled through via Google Translate and gestures In Porto, we’re told we must try the famous dish francesinha

local

Created by a bodybuilder in 1953, the Portuguese take on a croque monsieur involves thick slices of white bread, Portuguese ham, sausage, and steak cloaked in a layer of melted cheese Instead of spending hours online searching for the best place to eat it (and always fearing you’ve fallen for a tourist trap), Fernanda announces she’s booked a table at one of the top spots The 7pm dinner booking is early for Porto but as a local she knows the decadent meal is best eaten a few hours before bedtime

Even if Brasao Coliseu wasn’t the best spot around, being saved from the tyranny of choice each meal makes every bite taste like the best The recommendations don’t stop with dinner Strolling the smooth cobblestone streets in the 9pm light, we take notes as Fernanda points out her favourite spots

“This cafe is the oldest in Porto, the coffee is more expensive than usual but it’s beautiful inside,” she says as we pass Cafe Majestic “Then go here for the best ice cream in town,” as she texts us the address for La Copa We’re pointed towards the best ginjinha, a cherry brandy liqueur, (go to A Ginjinha in Lisbon), and viewpoints (skip the overpriced Sao Jorge Castle and go to the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte instead) While she repeatedly asserts she’s not a tour guide but a tour leader (the priority is logistics rather than facts or history), she is undeniably a trove of intel

We don’t share every meal or afternoon, which, as a fiercely independent traveller, feels like the best of both worlds I don’t have to plan transport, book restaurants and hotels, or carry the mental load of planning “what to do next” but also have the autonomy to explore solo, go at my own pace or visit attractions and eateries that others aren’t fussed about

From Porto, we speed through the Douro Valley’s rolling vineyards then on to the rugged hills of Coa Valley, watching lush green hills gently transition to flat blonde grassland beneath massive powder blue skies It takes around four hours to reach Castelo Rodrigo by private van and at 4pm, dozens of cruise ship tourists fill the narrow streets One hour later, however, the medieval hilltop ruins are silent and it feels slightly naughty, as if our group has hidden in a historic attraction after closing time

The lock-in is above board, however, as we’re staying at Cisterna, a guesthouse on the hill that began as the owner Anna’s home but now hosts guests for an experience that feels plucked from a fairytale

Like a typical home, there’s a lounge stacked with books and trinkets, a big wooden dining table and bedrooms humbly furnished with vintage decor

Along with a deliciously cold pool, the property also includes Isobel, a quintessential “nonna” who is the head chef but also our temporary grandmother; warm, stern and determined to feed us as much as possible We gather on the outdoor patio for dinner as the sunset drenches the surrounding horizon

There isn’t a modern building or powerline in sight, and it’s silent save for birdsong and wind rustling through the trees

The table groans with chunks of roasted pork and fragrant grilled fish, sauteed broad beans and lashings of olive oil, finished with a traditional almond cake still steaming from the oven Isobel appears often, topping up our plates, and we’re in near constant laughter as Fernanda translates her witty remarks

Leaning back in my chair, belly full (and a little sore from all the laughing), I know that much like the hole-in-the-wall restaurant or perfect sunset spot, this perfect moment is one I may never have experienced without a little help from a local

Amsterdam to Bucharest or vice versa

23 DAYS | 8 COUNTRIES | 19 GUIDED TOURS

SET SAIL: APR-OCT 2026; MAY-OCT 2027

From AU$15,895pp in Standard Stateroom

From AU$20,895pp in Veranda Stateroom C APITALS OF E

Vienna to Bucharest or vice versa

17 DAYS | 7 COUNTRIES | 12 GUIDED TOURS SET SAIL: APR-OCT 2026; MAY-OCT 2027

From AU$11,395pp in Standard Stateroom

From AU$14,895pp in Veranda Stateroom

PA SS AGE TO E A STERN EUROPE

Bucharest to Budapest or vice versa

11 DAYS | 5 COUNTRIES | 8 GUIDED TOURS

SET SAIL: MAR-NOV 2026; 2027

From AU$8,395pp in Standard Stateroom

From AU$9,895pp in Veranda Stateroom

DIP A TOE IN

Kiwi travellers are looking for authentic experiences, and what better way than to dive into onsen, sacred ponds and deadly fish factories, writes Melissa Nightingale

Getting naked in front of strangers is not a must if you want to experience a traditional Japanese onsen, my fellow, shy travellers

Japan is the home of the onsen, natural hot spring baths where visitors bare all and soak up those minerals and good vibes in the presence of other, equally naked guests

When I found out I was heading to a small Japanese city that takes great pride in its onsen baths, I knew I was going to have to give it a try Some might scoff, but I wondered if I could find the courage to do it

As it turns out, there are many ways to enjoy onsen, even for the prudish among us

When our group arrives at our ryokan a traditional Japanese inn in Nagato for the night, we are told about the alkaline waters which will leave our skin feeling silky smooth At Hotel Yokikan there are several options, including a private onsen experience operating on a schedule, an open-air bath where hotel guests can visit freely, or some of the rooms have a private onsen attached, with a small wooden tub perched near a window overlooking the beautiful Yuya Bay

The access to onsen is one of this hotel’s major drawcards, but its traditional design is also enticing for travellers wanting an authentic Japanese experience

The rooms are furnished with tatami mat floors, shoji sliding doors, and the dining area has a low table and zaisu chairs, which I find surprisingly comfortable Some of the rooms have Western-style beds, while others have a traditional futon, a firm mattress that rests directly on the floor

The meals here, as in many places we eat around Nagato and the Yamaguchi Prefecture, are visually stunning, served in the kaiseki style where they are presented artistically and in many small portions Such meals in Nagato are often seafood-heavy, with much of the meal being sourced from the nearby Sea of Japan

Not many tourists opt for this experience in Nagato It is a small city of 32,000 and last year drew just the barest fraction of the country’s

nearly 37 million visitors about 13,000 Tourism operators describe it as a “hidden gem”, suggesting people wanting a break from the hotspots of Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto can come to Nagato for a more authentic experience

Booking com’s Travel and Sustainability Report 2025 found that most Kiwi travellers want to support local businesses and communities, and three-quarters wanted to seek experiences that represent local culture

Logistically, Nagato is not an easy place to visit The high-speed bullet train (Shinkansen) stops near Nagato, but doesn’t take travellers directly to the city, so those wanting to explore are best to hire a vehicle Hopping on a private bus at Shimonoseki Station, we wind through the misty hills, through dense green forest and past picturesque clusters of homes adorned with decorative curved eaves that are distinctively Japanese

a coin into a box attached to the top of the main torii gate If you land the coin, your wish will be granted Alas, my throwing arm remains weak and wishes remain ungranted

It is a gorgeous spot to appreciate the view of the sea and rugged coastline

It’s not the only place in Yamaguchi to enjoy the outlook the Tsunoshima Bridge, about half an hour’s drive from the shrine, is the perfect spot for a photo

There are regular ocean cruises around Omijima Island in a whimsical, whaleshaped boat that takes you to various sightseeing points and marine caves some of which the boat can enter on calm days

Checklist YAMAGUCHI

PREFECTURE, JAPAN

GETTING THERE

The beauty of Nagato is that you’re never far from either the coast or the mountains, and can enjoy ryokan, onsen, and fantastic restaurants in both

In the mountains, we visit another ryokan, Gyokusenkaku, which overlooks the quaint hot spring town of Nagato Yumoto Onsen, which is the perfect place to escape to if you want to immerse yourself in onsen culture and try all the different baths Bonus points if you go when the cherry blossoms are out or the autumn leaves are turning Down on the coast, the sights include the Motonosumi Shrine, which has a sequence of torii gates leading up the cliffside to the shrine, at which guests are encouraged to try throwing

Fly from Auckland to Fukuoka with a stopover in Singapore Catch the Shinkansen train to Shimonoseki and hire a car to drive around the region

New Zealand Herald Travel was a guest of Booking com

But perhaps my favourite place in the prefecture is the Beppu Benten Pond Never have I wanted to swim in a probably-sacred water source as much as I did there I don’t think I’ve ever seen water so clear and blue Further downstream, the colour deepens to a rust-red, due to the algae coating the stones and pebbles on the stream bed

Locals visit the pond daily to fill jugs of water for free It’s said that drinking water from the spring will bring healing and longevity If I were to believe any claim about magical water, it would be the water from this pond

Yamaguchi is also considered the home of the fugu fish trade, that is, the puffer fish that can poison you if not prepared properly

Visitors curious about this deathly delicacy can head to one of the prefecture’s fugu factories to see how it’s managed before chancing a taste at a local eatery

The chef who served fugu to us must have known what he was doing, as nobody in our group dropped dead Or maybe it was the mystical pond water? I simply couldn’t say

South Pacific: Fiji »

Carving hard on Frigates Pass

Witnessing the sun kiss a big barrelling lefthander, somewhere in the South Pacific Ocean, is one of Mother Nature’s more beautiful sights

One of Fiji’s gnarliest waves, Frigates Pass is the Coral Coast’s answer to Cloudbreak, and while it’s no hidden gem (Matthew McConaughey returned from a stint at Frigates in the movie Surfer, Dude), it is under the radar compared to Fiji’s most iconic surfing destination

Tim Piper, the Auckland-raised surf operations manager at Waidroka Bay Resort on Fiji’s Coral Coast, has travelled the world to ride waves in more than 50 countries

After we return from a taxing five-hour session in about one-metre waves at Frigates, he explains why Fiji is an increasingly sought-after surfing location Unlike New Zealand, where the long sand shelf often weakens waves by the time they hit the shoreline, Fiji’s shallow surrounding volcanoes quickly generate heavy barrels over reef breaks

“Fiji is amazing,” Piper says “You need a boat, which is unusual Most places I’ve surfed, you just jump off the beach That’s why Waidroka is so special, because we’ve got five boats

“The waves come from a long distance, from the Tasman Sea, so you get long, groomed swell lines and that’s why places like Cloudbreak arguably one of the best waves in the world is so famous ”

Cloudbreak put Fiji on the surfing map, as it hosted a spot on the world tour for two decades Its accessibility from Nadi airport is another appeal, alongside the six breaks that include three rights and three lefts However, there’s more to Fiji’s surf scene than Cloudbreak

“Our zone is quite special because it is further afield,” Piper says, adding that it slips off the radar of most surf tourists Yet, those who visit can access eight surf breaks straight off the dock at Waidroka Resort

The Coral Coast, between Sigatoka and Suva, boasts four reefs, three villages and seven waves, including the Frigates, a reef break in the Mamanuca Islands, a 45-minute boat ride from shore

“It’s unreal,” Piper says of Frigates “They say it’s our version of Cloudbreak but it’s different The word is out: it’s Cloudbreak but with half the crowd ” On this particular day, after rising before the sun, we had Frigates to ourselves for one and a half hours before two other boats arrived to join the fun

“It’s a gnarly wave; a wave of consequence,” Piper says after one Sydney-based Australian surfer among our crew broke his board “On big days it can be a real problem Even the best surfers that I know who surf there when it’s big say it’s terrifying ”

Compared to other surfing destinations, Fiji is largely considered best suited for intermediate and above, with “Fiji tattoos” from close coral encounters common

“If you want to learn to surf, I wouldn’t recommend Fiji It’s not impossible, but it’s largely shallow coral It’s not safe for the students, or the teacher, at the reef passes ”

Diving around Waidroka Waidroka, one hour and 15 minutes from Suva, is different from your typical resort Situated in a coconut grove in the middle of a rain forest, surrounded by sounds of birds, and featuring stunning sunsets, it’s a secluded hideaway from any hustle and bustle

Instead of Michelin-star chefs, there are cooks who have learned how to turn local produce into some of the best food on the Coral Coast Don’t

Fiji’s on fire

From surfing legendary reef breaks to soaking up a passionate rugby culture, Fiji’s Coral Coast is a sports-lover’s dream, if you know where to look, writes Liam Napier

Preparing for an early morning surf from the dock at Waidroka Bay Resort, an ideal spot to launch boats to surf and dive spots; right, the resort is a welcoming hideaway

Photos / Liam Napier supplied

Checklist

GETTING THERE

Fly from Auckland to Nadi with Fiji Airways

DETAILS

Waidroka Bay Resort

waidroka com

New Zealand Herald travelled courtesy of Tourism Fiji and Fiji Airways

miss the yaloka ni viti breakfast wrap or, so I’m told, “Fijian burrito” With 90% of the resort staff from the local village and everyone, from managers to guests, sharing the three-course evening meal, the resort encompasses a welcoming, homely, family atmosphere

With 12 classic bungalows, all with hammocks on the deck, and a capacity of 24-36 people, the resort is never crowded While there’s no beach, the pool takes pride of place in the courtyard, and the dock is ideal for launching boats to surf and dive the latter another major tourist

PALM LAKE

R E: S O R T

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Pacific Islands: Fiji »

From p12

appeal alongside other offerings that include yoga and river tubing

South African instructor Jamie Ayliffe, who describes Fiji as the world’s soft coral capital, leads dive groups, with a maximum of 26 people

From Beqa Lagoon to the surrounding barrier reef and the striking coral colours, gorgonian sea fans, spotted eagle rays, Spanish mackerel and shark dives, Ayliffe says Fiji is a must-visit dive destination

“This one compares to no other you see elsewhere,” Ayliffe enthuses about the local shark dive “It’s mostly bull and tawny nose sharks and, if you’re lucky, a tiger will come through We can see up to six to eight species of sharks on one dive It’s insane I’ve seen over 40 bull sharks in one dive It’s jam-packed ”

Waidroka offers a range of open water dive courses for all abilities, as well as a speciality nitrox-enriched air dive that provides more oxygen to allow longer and shorter intervals between dives This is the only resort that goes to Cakau Leka Leka a deep-water atoll one and a half hours out to sea The submerged volcano drops down 1000m on all sides

“Because it’s so far out, the visibility is always perfect and the coral is pristine It’s amazing,” Ayliffe says “No other dive operator goes there It’s the best diving I’ve seen in Fiji ”

Rugby mad in Namatakula Beyond Waidroka, Fiji’s diversity extends to rugby, the island nation’s national sport and, by extension, religion Consider this for an insight into Fiji’s rugby

obsession When the men’s sevens team captured Fiji’s first Olympic medal at the 2016 Rio Games, the country celebrated with a national holiday, and the team’s English coach, Ben Ryan, replaced the Queen on the sevendollar note and 10-cent coin The usual three-hour journey from Nadi to Suva swelled to nine as the team bus stopped in every village to share their success Rugby’s

Savour in Style

deep-seated connection extends throughout Fiji Ratu Filise Memorial School and the Namatakula village of around 420 people, which has produced the likes of NRL championshipwinning outside back Noa Nadruku, Wallabies centre Tevita Kuridrani, dual Australian international Lote Tuqiri and powerful rugby wing Nemani Nadolo, is one example of where rugby inspires youth and gives back to the community, with those who crack the professional ranks paying for humble housing renovations

Four years ago, the Fijian Drua’s introduction into Super Rugby Pacific captured the hearts of a nation by giving the country a long-desired elite team and coveted pathway to support

In Namatakula (and, indeed, most villages), locals gather in the communal hall to passionately support every Drua game

Attending a Drua match in Suva or Lautoka is a bucket-list sporting experience Buoyant locals arrive two hours before kickoff with umbrellas in tow to shelter from the sweltering heat and humidity, creating a colourful, vibrant atmosphere replicated in other aspects of Fijian life such as their open-air buses filled with music and song

Witnessing Fijian rugby live is to experience a joyous cultural celebration With infectious “toso Drua toso, toso Drua toso” chants, flags and energy among a comparatively small but highly animated 10,000 crowd, the result is almost secondary

There is whooping and hollering, flags waved and people shouting, explains Drua chief executive Mark Evans

“I’ve never seen a crowd so joyful It’s an unusually pure experience,” he said

“It’s the national sport that helps Everybody young, old, boys, girls, iTaukei, Indo-Fijian comes together for it ”

From surfing to diving, rugby to culture, Fiji offers a melting pot of experiences to savour

Hire your car, skip the queue and drive away

Avis’ Straight to Car concept revolutionises the Kiwi rental vehicle experience

Chances are, youve been here It s Friday night at the airport raining the bags take an eternity to show up on the carousel the kids are getting scratchy and all you want to do is get the family into the rental car and head off to the Airbnb for the long weekend

That s when you see the queue of similarly frazzled parents at the hire car counter frantically hunting for their licences and credit cards

Or it’s Monday morning the red-eye flight s been delayed, and you still have to sign for the rental car pick up the keys find the vehicle in a crowded parking lot and fight the rush-hour traffic into the city for that 10am meeting

Chances are you haven t been here instead you walk into the terminal open the Avis app on your phone click Unlock

My Car jump into the vehicle and youre on the motorway

This is a new concept introduced by Avis New Zealand called Straight to Car

It s one of those brainwaves that seems so simple and so practical you wonder why no one thought of it before

That s because of the technology integration required to make the experience possible it s taken time to bring everything together Now it s available domestic and international leisure and business travellers can enjoy fast and easy car pick-ups with the Avis App and an Avis Preferred membership

Here’s how it works You don t have to be a previous or regular Avis customer; simply download the companys Avis Car Rental app to your phone from Google Play or the App Store

Sign up to Avis Preferred membership for free (no catches like minimum spend involved)

Another bonus: Avis will include an additional driver for free when you rent in New Zealand or Australia

When you sign up, you ll be asked to set a password and provide basic information required to rent a vehicle like credit card and driver licence details

You can then book with Avis online, by phone or via the Avis app You can also book via third party websites – however not all these websites capture your Avis Preferred number which must be included on the booking to enable Straight to Car pick-ups

In the days before you pick up your car you’ll be asked to electronically verify your ID and driver licence which you must do 24 hours before picking up the car

When you get off the plane or head for the Avis depot log into the app and - 20 minutes before pickup time – it will tell you exactly where you ll find your vehicle in the Avis carpark Head straight to the spot, click Unlock My Car and you ll find the keys and can drive off No paperwork, no queues no fuss

Plans changed, or you like the look of another vehicle? No problem The Avis Preferred programme gives customers the option of changing the assigned vehicle for another one that s in the Avis car park available and ready to go Again simple: the app will show what s available and you can make the change in real time so it won t slow you down

When it s time to return the car head

back to the Avis depot park and lock the vehicle using the key and either put the keys in the drop box in the Avis carpark or return them to the Avis counter

Does Straight to Car do what it says on the tin? We road-tested the experience under the most difficult combination of circumstances we could think of –Auckland Airport (one of the busiest Avis sites in the South Pacific), at lunchtime, during the school holidays and in the middle of the one of the citys most torrential mindwinter downpours

We opened the app hit Unlock My Car learned the silver Hyundai SUV (number plate provided) was in Bay 110 walked

– undercover thankfully – to the spot opened the drivers door and found the keys All in less than five minutes while the Avis staff were efficiently dealing with the queue of customers signing their paperwork at the counter

• Moreinfo:avis co nz/preferred

*Available at select locations Conditions apply for Avis Preferred membership and benefits

India »

MORE GOLD to be found

Want to enjoy India’s cuisine, culture and history without the tourist crowds? Swap these top destinations for lesser-known alternatives, writes Poonam Binayak.

India’s headline destinations Delhi, Agra, Mumbai, Goa, Jaipur are popular for good reason, but they are not the whole story Beyond the usual tourist trail, other places offer similar richness in architecture, food, and culture, with less intensity and more room to explore From palace towns to coastal escapes, here are alternatives that deserve equal attention

Swap Delhi for Lucknow

If you’re drawn to Mughal architecture and street food but want a less sprawling, more navigable city, Lucknow is a compelling alternative to Delhi The capital of Uttar Pradesh, it was once the former seat of the Nawabs of Awadh regional rulers known for their refined taste and patronage of the arts Their legacy lives on in landmarks such as the Bara Imambara, an 18thcentury ceremonial hall with a vaulted chamber; the Chota Imambara, decorated with chintz chandeliers and Islamic calligraphy; and the towering Rumi Darwaza, inspired by the Ottoman gateways For a hint of Raj-era urban planning, head to Hazratganj, where straight boulevards and colonnaded walkways recall early 20th-century British influence For food and craft, head to Chowk home to Tunday Kababi’s famous kebabs and stalls selling handembroidered chikankari

Swap Agra for Orchha

Agra’s Taj Mahal is iconic, but visiting can be overwhelming long queues, dense crowds, and pushy touts For a calmer introduction to North India’s architectural legacy, head to Orchha in the central India state of Madhya Pradesh Once a Bundela Rajput capital, this riverside town is home to remarkably well-preserved 16th- and 17th-century palaces, cenotaphs, and temples Highlights include the mural-filled Raja Mahal, the Indo-Islamic Jahangir Mahal, the Ram Raja Temple where Lord Rama is worshipped as a king and a series of chhatris (royal tombs) lining the Betwa River

Swap Mumbai for Pune

Mumbai may be India’s financial powerhouse,

15 days, 18 April 2026

but its relentless pace can be exhausting Just three hours away, Pune offers a softer landing often dubbed Mumbai’s quieter sister Once the seat of the Maratha Empire, whose rulers shaped the region’s political might, its royal past lingers in the crumbling ramparts of the 18thcentury Shaniwar Wada (fortress) Not far off, the grand Aga Khan Palace where Mahatma Gandhi was held under house arrest stands as a poignant marker of the country’s freedom struggle Culture thrives at the quirky Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum, packed with everyday objects from across the country But Pune is not

all nostalgia The leafy lanes of its hip neighbourhoods Koregaon Park and Kalyani Nagar buzz with European-style cafes, modern Asian restaurants, and microbreweries, adding to the city’s easy-going, cosmopolitan charm

Swap Jaipur for Shekhawati

While Jaipur stuns with its royal palaces and forts, Shekhawati a semi-arid region in northeast Rajasthan tells a quieter, more intimate story Once home to wealthy Marwari merchants who dominated trade and finance across India, Shekhawati saw a flourish of prosperity in the 18th and 19th centuries These merchants returned to build lavish havelis (mansions), each more elaborately frescoed than the last, as a display of wealth and pride Today, the towns of Mandawa, Ramgarh, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur, and Dundlod serve as open-air galleries, with murals depicting everything from mythological tales to steam engines and gramophones With fewer tourists and a gentler pace, Shekhawati offers heritage without the crowds and a rare window into India’s oncethriving mercantile heartland

Swap Goa for Karwar

Goa is India’s party capital, but just across the border in Karnataka, Karwar offers a slower, quieter coastal escape Its main stretch, Rabindranath Tagore Beach, is clean and

WOMEN-ONLY TOURS

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• Fully escorted from NZ

• Small group - max. 10

• Designed by women, for women

walkable, with a small warship museum and seafacing promenade For something more adventurous, head to Devbagh Island for water sports and beachfront stays, or catch the sunset at the dramatic black-sand Tilmati Beach The town also has a fresh seafood scene that is worth seeking out do not miss the fish thali (a platter

fried fish, and sides including pickles and sol kadi, a digestive drink made with kokum) at Hotel Amrut and Swetha Lunch Home

Swap South Kerala’s backwaters for backwaters of North Kerala

Drifting through Kerala’s backwaters aboard a kettuvallam a traditional rice barge turned houseboat is a signature experience While the southern stretch around Alappuzha (Alleppey) draws the biggest crowds, the Valiyaparamba backwaters in Kasaragod Kerala’s northernmost district offer an equally scenic route with far fewer tourists Here, narrow canals, lagoons, and riverways weave past coconut groves and quiet villages, largely untouched by tourism Base yourself at Neeleshwar Hermitage, a serene retreat with its own luxury houseboat and Ayurvedic focus For

a more affordable option, the state-backed Bekal Resorts Development Corporation runs day cruises from Ayitti and Edayilakkad, giving travellers access to this lesser-known corner of Kerala

Swap Ranthambore National Park for Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve

While Ranthambore National Park in Rajasthan remains India’s poster child for tiger tourism, Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve in the western state of Maharashtra offers a more under-theradar and rewarding alternative With one of the country’s highest tiger densities around 115 tigers roaming its teak-and-bamboo forests, sightings are more likely here than in many other parks The terrain is relatively open, visibility is good, and the park is divided into 20 zones, easing vehicle congestion Tadoba also stands out for its well-trained naturalists, eco-friendly lodges, and rich biodiversity, including leopards, wild dogs, sloth bears, and deer It is also one of the few reserves in India to offer night safaris, where visitors might spot flying squirrels, civets, jungle cats, and nightjars

Swap Ladakh for Spiti Valley

Ladakh’s stark beauty has earned it global fame, but rising tourism has brought in crowds and infrastructure stress Spiti Valley, in Himachal Pradesh, offers similar Himalayan drama, with equally high altitudes (over 4000m) and lower footfall Its craggy peaks, glaciers, and ice-fed waterfalls are perfect for serious trekkers Winter brings a rare chance to spot the elusive snow leopard near the villages of Kibber and Chicham Key and Tabo Buddhist monasteries among the oldest in the region add spiritual depth to the remote terrain, while Komic, one of the world’s highest villages, offer ideal conditions for stargazing Foreign nationals need an Inner Line Permit, available online at hplahaulspiti nic in

What Kiwis want »

Growing appetite for lesser-known gems There’s no question Kiwis love to travel However, where we want to go and why may be shifting.

“We’re seeing rising interest in lesser-travelled parts of the world,” says Sean Martin, managing director for Australia, New Zealand and Asia at G Adventures.

According to Martin, places such as Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Bolivia and Montenegro are all gaining momentum, thanks to their “raw beauty, cultural depth and that sense of discovery Kiwis love”.

It’s a sentiment felt across the industry. At Flight Centre, air and product manager Jen Staples says Kiwis always love Asia but are searching for destinations that feel properly unfamiliar and less crowded.

Instead of Bali and Thailand, those seeking beach holidays are discovering the beauty of Philippines, while South Korea is proving a hit with those willing to look past classic favourites such as Japan.

Western Australia is also catching the attention of adventurous Kiwis.

“WA has never shouted for attention, but it’s getting it now,” says David Coombes, House of Travel’s chief executive. Yet, people aren’t just heading to Perth, Margaret River and the Kimberley, but starting to explore Ningaloo Reef, Monkey Mia, Shark Bay, the Pilbara region and the Golden Outback. Even our beloved Europe, which Kiwis flock to en masse every winter, is being explored more widely.

“Albania is the new hotspot,” says Coombes, describing it as the ‘new Croatia’ but cheaper. Staples agrees, noting a growing Kiwi interest in Portugal for its culture and value, while discerning travellers are skipping Santorini and Mykonos for islands such as Paros and Naxos for “laid-back, authentic experiences”.

Then there’s Central Asia. Both Coombes and Paul Ryan, CEO and co-founder of Inspiring Vacations, see growing fascination with the Five Stans Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan “It’s a region where ancient Silk Road cities meet Soviet relics, dramatic mountain ranges and warm, proud cultures,” Ryan says. “For those who’ve ‘done’ Europe or Southeast Asia, it offers something truly different.”

Another destination quietly gaining momentum is Taiwan, something Coombes credits to its scenery, culture and food.

Active, immersive and meaningful travel takes priority

Our taste in destinations isn’t the only thing changing; how and why we travel has also shifted.

“Travellers are searching for deeper meaning in their adventures,” says Martin.

“There’s a strong desire for connection with local communities, nature, and themselves.”

He says interest is booming in G Adventures’ “Active” category, which includes hiking, trekking and cycling experiences. “Travellers want to switch off and connect with the world on a more physical level,” he says

House of Travel’s David Coombes agrees, saying walking holidays have become more popular, such as Spain’s Camino de Santiago.

In Europe, Staples said they’ve started to notice a preference for immersive, purpose-led experiences that linger longer and travel regionally within a place.

Ryan seconds this, saying many Kiwis don’t just want a change of scenery but perspective. “They’re looking beyond the big-name cities and seeking destinations that are harder to access independently.” This doesn’t mean they skip bucket-list spots, Coombes adds, saying they’ll often combine iconic sights or destinations with lesser-known experiences.

Even the classic Fiji resort stay is being reimagined by some travellers. “In Fiji, we’ve seen

THE NEW FRONTIE

RONTIE

RONTIER

NTIE

Forget the typical holiday haunts Kiwis are craving new cultures, deeper connections and off-the-grid experiences. Sarah Pollok asks four industry insiders where we’re heading next and why.

Experts’ suggestions

SeanMartin recommends G Adventures’ Hiking in Albania, Kosovo & Montenegro: “It’s a remote nine-day trek through the Accursed Mountains with glacial lakes, border-crossing trails and local guesthouses.” gadventures.com

Main, interest is booming in G Adventures Active category which includes hiking trekking and cycling in destinations such as Namibia; above left, the Philippines has flown under the radar for Kiwi travellers but is growing in popularity; right South Korea is also trending with curious travellers Photos / G Adventures Unsplash

JenStaples highlights a bespoke 17-day journey through Bali and Komodo, saying it “showcases the unique Bali that most travellers don’t get to experience”. tours.flightcentre.co.nz

David Coombes offers two House of Travel picks: a magical Christmas in Lapland complete with huskies and Northern Lights, and a Cape York sightseeing tour by 4WD, travelling from Cairns to the remote northern tip of Australia houseoftravel.co.nz

interest spike for destinations such as the Yasawa Islands,” Staples says, adding how it offers a “different experience from the traditional Denarau or Coral Coast options”.

Solo, guided and expert-led adventures are on the rise

The further we stray from the beaten track the more helpful support can be. So, it’s little surprise all experts have seen stubbornly independent Kiwis embrace guided or expert-led travel, especially when solo.

However, this doesn’t have to look like handholding or overly scheduled trips, Ryan explains, saying: “Guided travel removes the guesswork while still delivering the sense of adventure travellers crave.”

Paul Ryan nominates Insight Vacations’ 26-day Five Stans Unveiled with Mary Extension tour: “It’s a rare chance to explore the Silk Road, stay in yurts under the stars and visit the Unesco-listed city of Mary in Turkmenistan.” inspiringvacations.com

Meanwhile, Martin said solo travel was a “fastgrowing” trend as the fear of solo trips dissipates, especially amongst older travellers.

Group travel is also becoming more purposeful. Staples says small-group touring and small-ship cruises are allowing travellers to connect with likeminded people while getting the benefits of a guide.

“Having a local presence with you really helps you understand the culture and destination,” she says.

But creating guided tours in truly remote spots such as Tajikistan or Turkmenistan involves serious groundwork, Ryan explains.

“We listen closely to what curious travellers are asking about and work with experienced, onground operators to assess each location for quality, safety, logistics, and cultural depth,” he says.

“If we know the roads are navigable, the local guides are exceptional, and the stories compelling, we’ll build an itinerary.”

It’s not just about the thrill of discovery, he adds, it’s about delivering quality experiences even in hard-to-reach places. “If we can create a seamless, enriching itinerary that maintains our standards even somewhere far from the tourist trail we’ll bring it to life.”

It’s these experiences that are often what make travel worthwhile, Staples adds.

“Straying from the beaten track allows the opportunity to become truly involved in a destination, its culture and its people,” she says, adding that it enables us to craft life-long connections, memories, and experiences. “In my opinion, that is what travelling is all about.”

England: The Salt Path »

At 1014km, England’s longest National Trail, the South West Coast Path, isn’t for the faint of heart, but even a few weeks of walking is worthwhile, writes

Joanne Mitchell

Not all who wander are lost, but on the last day of the South West Coast Path, somehow we were After 21 days and 418km of hardwon experience, we still managed to miss a waymarker Now we were cornered in a matrix of fields with obstacles between us and the path winding up the cliff in the distance Gorse hedges, barbed wire fences and bracken hiding sleeping adders were impassable An inelegant clamber over a dry stone wall cost us our pride but eventually put us back on track

This is the Salt Path experience The longest continuous path and National Trail in England, which follows the coast of Somerset, Devon, Cornwall and Dorset Established in the 19th century, the path was initially created to allow coastguards to patrol the 1014km from Minehead to Poole In early June, with only a month’s leave from work, I tackled almost half of it, from Minehead to Land’s End

Despite the innocent name, this “path” is an unrelenting trek with long days, steep climbs and sheer descents in the full range of British weather However, the body adapts and the reward is a stunning and stimulating hike, with each day bringing varied landscapes

The film The Salt Path, based on a 2018 novel*, came out just before we left New Zealand, but the walk had been nine months in the planning The SWCP website is helpful with suggested daily start and end points, but finding available accommodation in small villages is what dictates your final itinerary

Early days began with dappled woodland paths meandering over small streams and stone bridges before rising up cliffs On the seventh day, rain set in, making for a treacherous stretch around fallen trees and down muddy paths It was a relief to descend late in the day to Clovelly, one of the UK’s prettiest villages Carless due to the narrow, extremely steep lanes, locals pull wooden sleds over the cobbles with their loads, greasing the runners with lard to make them run smoothly

Fishing villages seemingly tumble down the coastline’s deep coves Rounding a headland on day 10, Boscastle Harbour emerged from the sea mist like a movie set with centuries-old whitewashed houses, slate roofs, and pubs

The following night was spent at the Slipway Inn in higgledy piggledy Port Isaac, where the TV series Doc Martin was filmed Up and over a cliff path lies Port Quin, the village that died In the 1800s, as the story goes, the fishing fleet was caught in a storm and all the men perished, forcing the women and children to abandon their homes to survive elsewhere

This is a path marked by tragedy, and walking along the cliffs with the Atlantic always on your right is invigorating but surprisingly poignant Memorials lie for bombers flying back from World War II missions that missed their landing and flew into the cliffs; a hospital ship torpedoed in 1918; and a plaque with the first words of For The Fallen “They shall not grow old as we that are left grow old ” was written overlooking this area

A surprise, never having been to Cornwall, was the vast golden sandy beaches and clear turquoise seas I didn’t associate England with beaches that reminded me of Aotearoa’s Far North As tempting as they looked for a dip, we ploughed on, mindful of the kilometres still ahead Cornwall’s St Tropez is the beach town of Rock, a stone’s throw from Padstow At high tide, a ferry takes you across the River Camel in minutes

The nature of the Coast Path means that ferries must sometimes be used to cross estuaries The same respite from walking also helped in

A journey through time

Newquay with a boat across the Gannel River, and the ferry across the River Torridge from Instow to Appledore, saving another 10km walking around and crossing the bridge at Bideford I had the best Devon ice cream in Instow while waiting for the tide to slowly rise

The world’s oldest funicular water-powered train took us up a vertical climb in Lynton that saved 25 minutes on foot Small and appreciated mercies

The National Trust undertakes enormous environmental work on the coast to preserve the area’s wide open spaces Their wildflower meadow project in North Devon, among Britain’s most threatened habitats, attracts birds and pollinators, increasing nearby wheat crop production, as well as being visually stunning

The demand created by tourism along this coast is clear in several towns with new upmarket holiday homes, and less upmarket holiday chalet developments, sprawling at the edges The same global economic changes are clear here, with absentee, rich second-home owners putting pressure on affordability for locals The UK Government is clamping down by increasing taxes for these homes, and St Ives has banned newly built houses from being sold as second homes Padstow (aka Padstein because of the influence of celebrity chef Rick Stein, who owns several restaurants and businesses here) was the first place we saw tourists thronging the narrow

Where Luxury Meets Adventure

Looking for an incredible escape right here in Aotearoa?

The Hollyford Wilderness Experience is an all-inclusive, three-day guided adventure through the remote and spectacular Fiordland National Park It’s just been named a TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Award winner for 2025, placing it among the top 10% of experiences worldwide, and it’s easy to see why

This is adventuring in comfort at its finest Over three days you’ll explore the dramatic and diverse landscapes of the Hollyford Valley by foot, jet boat and helicopter Along the way, you’ll be treated to fully appointed private lodges, chef-prepared meals, and warm, seamless hospitality

Everything is taken care of, from Queenstown transfers and hearty kai to expertly guided walks and breathtaking scenic experiences It’s a rare combination of remote wilderness and refined service, delivering luxury without the price tag

Unlike more crowded Great Walks, the Hollyford Track offers a low-altitude, one-way journey through a variety of terrain, from alpine peaks and ancient podocarp forest to coastal wildlife habitats Thanks to the jet boat and helicopter legs, there’s no need to retrace your steps, making it an efficient and immersive experience

The Hollyford Wilderness Experience caters to small groups (maximum 16

people), allowing for more personalised attention, rich storytelling, and a deeper connection to the land and local history

With no heavy packs to carry and expert guides taking care of every detail, it’s the kind of effortless escape discerning travellers seek

Each evening, you’ll enjoy comfort and calm in private lodges with hot showers, wine by the fire, and the chance to soak in a wood-fired outdoor hot tub beneath the stars In the morning you’ll wake to the sounds of nature and a fresh breakfast, before setting off on another day of seamless, fully hosted adventure It’s this level of care and consideration that sets the experience apart

“There’s really nothing else like it,” says General Manager Adam Dooney “People come for the scenery and adventure, and leave talking about the people, the comfort, and how well cared for they felt It’s truly special ”

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

Whether you’re celebrating a milestone, reconnecting with nature, or simply craving a unique and enriching escape, the Hollyford Wilderness Experience delivers a world-class journey, right in your own backyard

This unforgettable adventure runs from 25 October 2025 to 20 April 2026, with limited spaces available Prices start from $4195 per person in off-peak

For full details and to book, visit hollyfordtrack com

England: The Salt Pat

From p20

streets, which is jarring after days of seeing few people St Ives is similar, and despite the picture postcard shops and the flower basket explosion through town, I enjoyed these towns less

On day 19, we lunched at The Tinners Arms in Zennor next to St Senara’s, an austere-looking 1400-year-old church Inside, it is one of the most atmospheric churches I’ve seen The legend here is that one of the choir boys was such a beautiful singer that a mermaid at sea came ashore to hear him She lured him back to sea, and he was never seen again

From here, the path follows the ghostly stone towers and tin mine remains of Poldark fame Arsenic gas was a byproduct of the refining process, and numerous signs and barriers around collapsed mine shafts illustrate how the odds were stacked against these miners It was a little emotional arriving at Land’s End on day 21 The last kilometre each day always felt the longest, but despite a relatively gentle path at this point we slowed down to enjoy our final one The arrival did pull us out of the peacefulness of the path with quite a reality check A queue of tourists waited to take a photograph (£11, thank you) at the iconic signpost while a man knelt down and proposed there (awkward) Next to me sat a life-sized model of Paddington Bear outside one of the many gift shops and tacky amusement parlours at this otherwise wild Atlantic spot However, this made me appreciate even more the absorbing quiet and serenity we had enjoyed in the previous three weeks, and was a reminder that this challenge was not about the destination, but the journey

*An investigation by British newspaper The Observer has raised questions about details and alleged omissions in Raynor Winn’s memoir The Salt Path Winn has denied these claims

EUROPEAN HOLIDAY DREAMS

BUDAPEST, VIENNA & MORE

7

DEPARTS: 22 Aug 26

Flights additional

Ask us about other

YOUR CRUISE HIGHLIGHTS:

• 7 night cruise onboard Trafalgar Reverie

• 7 breakfasts, 6 lunches, 7 dinners

• Visit Heroes’ Square in Budapest

• Step ashore in Bratislava and explore its old town on a walking tour

• A Be My Guest experience at Weingut Nikolaihof, Austria’s oldest winery

• Cross into Bavaria and arrive in Passau, the ‘City of Three Rivers’

+ so much more!

BASEL & MORE

DEPARTS: 02 Aug 26

Flights additional

Ask us about other travel dates

YOUR CRUISE HIGHLIGHTS:

• 2 night stay in Amsterdam

• 7 night cruise onboard Trafalgar Verity

• 9 breakfasts, 6 lunches, 8 dinners

• See the UNESCO-listed Cologne Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece over 600 years in the making

• A Be My Guest experience with lunch on a family farm in Bohrerhof

+ so much more!

Africa: Malawi »

One-on-one with

THE ANIMALS

When planning a safari, you may consider South Africa, Kenya and Tanzania Few think of Malawi, but given its unspoilt wilderness, affordable luxury and lack of tourist crowds, Ben West suggests you should

I’m enjoying a cool beer in the al fresco lounge area of luxurious Kuthengo Camp, deep in Liwonde National Park

Suddenly two magnificent elephants cruise up in front of me, grazing on the lush greenery below their feet

The laid-back atmosphere quickly turns serious as a staff member, in hushed tones, orders us to stay seated, remain completely still, and keep our voices down

I gulp down another mouthful of Kuche Kuche, the omnipresent beer of the country and deeply refreshing on a hot day like this I’m in awe but also rather nervous of the wondrous sight about 25m in front of me For there is absolutely no barrier between us and these elephants, and if they were to charge there’d be no protection at all “Elephants can’t see too clearly and if they get confused by movement they can charge,” says our barman “White clothing, especially, attracts their attention, and they can see white as a threat ”

Of course, I’m the one who decided to be decked out completely in white this day More photographs are taken by the handful of people around me in the following 20 minutes than would be at an entire Instagram influencer convention, and the elephants, one about 35 years old, the other a bit older that’s missing a tusk, gradually move on

They’ve attracted a host of birds, including fish eagles, which cheekily hitch a lift on the elephants’ backs However, the elephants are so fixated on the plant-based feast in front of them that they don’t seem to notice

Malawi has long been overlooked as a tourist destination, and it is curious why so many travellers visit the same old countries in subSaharan Africa In 2024, South Africa had 8 92 million tourists, Kenya welcomed 2 39 million and Tanzania had more than two million

Only around 1 1 million tourists visited Malawi last year, according to Southern and East African Tourism Update In short, it’s one of Africa’s many countries that, thanks to being off

the beaten track, is less crowded and expensive yet well worth visiting

Malawi is on a mission to build its tourism In 2024, it waived visa requirements for 79 countries (including New Zealand) and launched a tourism university to raise hospitality standards in the country It also has a growing number of luxury lodges and hotels

Kuthengo Camp certainly provides plenty of luxury Nestled among fever trees and baobabs, with an inviting swimming pool tucked in the corner, it is situated by the Shire River, upon a large open plain The boat ride to the camp illustrates just how undeveloped and unspoilt Malawi is: long stretches of the riverbank have no buildings or other man-made interference to be seen

There are just five tents, spacious and modern, each en suite with a bathtub and outdoor shower

They even have Wi-Fi Walking safaris, game drives and boat trips are all offered It is magical to fall asleep to the exotic sounds

of the impressive wildlife there are more than 400 bird species in the park alone and I regularly hear hippos a few metres from my tent squelching in the mud and occasionally squealing like excited toddlers

You often feel you have the whole of Liwonde National Park to yourself, and seldom run into other vehicles

“Yesterday we had a wonderful sighting, a cheetah chasing an impala, right in front of us,” says our guide, Henry, when we embark on a drive in the park At that moment five impala appear in the distance and one stands up like a human and walks on its two hind legs It’s a peculiar sight, and one Henry says he’s never seen in his 20 years of guiding We also see wild dogs, baboons, warthogs, kudus, duikers, various birds, and a lioness watching waterbuck grazing We’re just 10m away and she ignores us completely A huge male wanders nearby, and we track him down to where he is lounging by

From p25

a tree We go on a night drive too, and find a jackal, a civet, porcupine, baby hippo and whitetailed mongoose

The rates vary from US$405 to $590 (NZ$667 to NZ$973) per person per night at Kuthengo, which feel expensive, but one of my travelling companions, Robert Courtney, whose company Briggate Travel specialises in African tours, assures me the prices are particularly low compared to many other African countries

It is common to pay around US$1000 per night at luxury tented camps in Kenya, and US$2000 or even $3000 is possible

Bird enthusiasts will appreciate Blue Zebra Island Lodge, located on Nankoma Island in the Marelli Archipelago on Lake Malawi More than 300 bird species can be found on these islands, including Livingstone’s flycatcher, the African paradise flycatcher, pied kingfisher, southernbrown throated weaver, African palm swift, bronze mannikin, African fish eagle, spotted eagle owl, grey heron, little egret, square-tailed whitejar, African grey hornbill and Cape turtle dove

I spot a couple of hammerkop nests and these are spectacularly huge: if this was the city, the birds, which live in pairs, would have to apply for building consent It’s a delight taking the 2 4km walk around the island, with just the sound of waves lapping and the birdsong, with lizards and chameleons scuttling past and colourful birds doing an official fly past every now and then As there’s only capacity for around 30 guests, you’re likely to have this walk to yourself Getting to Blue Zebra is an adventure in itself After driving along good roads past colourful villages you take a 10-minute motorboat trip from the mainland, passing fishermen in their little wooden boats

Malawi is keen that more people visit and experience its many delights However, I hope this doesn’t happen too rapidly It is lovely to arrive at cute little Lilongwe Airport, and within three minutes of driving be surrounded by lush greenery, cattle grazing and people selling coconuts by the roadside

• SixnightsinaStandardRoomGardenViewwithaprivatebalcony

• DailybuffetbreakfastatBluBar&Grill

• Twoset-menulunchesperadultatBluBar&Grill

• Onetwo-courseset-menudinnerperadultatBluBar&Grill

• Onechild(12andunder)staysfree,withselectdiningfromthekids’menu

USA: Arizona »

LISTEN TO THE WIND

Part spiritual waypoint, part natural wonder; Arizona’s vortexes are a sight to behold, writes Ivy Carruth

There’s wind, and then there’s Arizona vortex wind

It’s not gale-force or gusty It doesn’t rouge your cheeks or send your hat skittering down the rocks It’s soft and strangely directional; a whisper with intent

Arizona’s vortexes or vortices for the pedantic, are renowned around the world, even among those who’ve never set foot in America’s 48th state For decades, the town of Sedona, in particular, has been a magnet for energy seekers, spiritualists, those who worship the woo, and the quietly curious The town’s peculiar beauty is enough to pull you in with its sunburnt spires and high desert hush The quality of light here makes a mockery of the comparatively analogue filter Instagram might use to compete with it

I’m on a plateau above Sedona; near the airport, actually Barefoot on rock, I’m new to this seeking, and I only know to take my shoes off because everyone else has I’m here for curiosity’s sake; when something’s this talked about, you have to see for yourself

It’s the summer solstice, a fortuitous accident in my planning, and around me, strangers sit quietly with legs crossed and heads either bowed or facing toward the setting sun This isn’t something to book tickets for It’s simply where people gather to connect to themselves Everyone is tuning into something, if not divine, then certainly not ordinary My hair whips lightly around my face, and I start to wonder if, maybe, there’s something to this

But it’s the energy, invisible and, to some, entirely imaginary, that people come for Vortexes refer to sites where the Earth’s energy is said to spiral more intensely You’ll hear words like “electromagnetic resonance fields” and “geologic uplifts” tossed around and wonder why you didn’t pay more attention in your geology class There’s no peer-reviewed science to back it, but that matters not one iota to those who feel it

Each vortex is believed to radiate a distinct energy and by simply being there, you can absorb it Forget ritual; all you need is an open mind instead Science can’t explain everything, and here, what moves the seekers can’t be measured

“I always tell people not to come looking for proof,” says Pete Sanders, Jr , a vortex expert, Sedona resident, and honours graduate of the

Massachusetts Institute of Technology, one of the most respected science and innovation universities in the world Instead, he encourages folks to “come looking for perception

These places help you get quiet enough to hear yourself ” Sanders has spent decades studying and writing about Sedona’s energy sites, teaching people how to connect with them intuitively rather than mystically

“You don’t have to believe in crystals or chakras,” he adds “You just have to be willing to stop and listen ”

Sedona is home to four major vortex sites: Bell Rock, Cathedral Rock, Boynton Canyon, and Airport Mesa Each, according to vortex guides and seasoned regulars, has its essence Bell Rock is said to emit upward, masculine energy, which is restorative and clarifying Cathedral Rock, in contrast, offers a more grounding feminine energy that’s labelled nurturing and introspective Boynton Canyon is considered balanced, and Airport Mesa (where I am) offers panoramic views and what’s called a “charged” environment Plug me in, I say

a proliferation of sundresses and mineral pendants resting against collarbones, but also plenty of Lululemon for balance A woman near me braids a long rope by hand for her pregnant friend, and says she’ll finish it after sunset so it will hold the day’s energy “All the sacred flow,” she breathes, tucking a strand into place, “gets sealed inside”

Phones are present, of course, ubiquitous as they are for selfies, but they’re not the main event One fellow, model handsome and barefoot like the rest of us, muses as though in benediction, “I’ve never seen this many people up here, it’s good man It’s good ” There are no robed facilitators, and no one is hawking crystals from the back of a van It’s a simple gathering of people just sitting Standing Watching Being There’s nothing performative about it, no curation

It’s not “a show”

I can’t describe how the energy feels exactly, but I know how I feel grounded and steadied I don’t perceive healing or change, but I experience this humanity, quiet and fully present, in this unique space

Places beyond Sedona also draw vortex seekers, including Machu Picchu, Glastonbury, Uluru, and the Great Pyramids of Giza, locations where natural power and ancient human reverence meet Sedona’s vortexes, though, are unique in their accessibility You don’t need a helicopter or a three-day trek You just need a car, a bottle of water and an hour or two of unobstructed time

I’m not here for a spiritual awakening, and I’m not here to scoff I’m leaning into the mystical, and I’m here because peculiar things fascinate me Sedona, particularly on this lucky-accident solstice day, feels like a rare overlap, a place where the deeply earnest and the energy-curious sceptics can sit cross-legged on the same patch of rock in harmony

The people? They’re kind of wonderful There’s

That’s the thing about vortexes, they resist definition We can fall down rabbit holes of geomagnetic theory, debate sedimentary layering and fault lines or simply chalk it all up to the placebo effect of wishful thinking and beautiful places All of that might be true, or none of it We can carry our doubts and still find ourselves moved No one’s trying to convince anyone of anything

Approaching these weird and wonderful places with a sliver of openness and taken on the faith of our feelings may allow something within us to shift Maybe not our spirit Perhaps not our chakras But our pace and posture? Our willingness to be still? A sense of knowing and trust doesn’t shrink us; it expands the space around us A feeling that the Earth still has secrets she’s not ready to share

Maybe we need to be quiet and ready to hear them? Sometimes, the wind carries more truth than words

Central Asia: Turkmenistan » The land

Want to travel off the beaten track to a destination full of quirks and world records? Put Turkmenistan at the top of your list, writes Joanne Karcz

that tourists forgot “N

o one fails the test,” says our guide as we tackle the border crossing from Uzbekistan into Turkmenistan All visitors to Turkmenistan must be tested for Covid One by one, we file into a room labelled “Sanitary Doctor” A man in a white coat briefly shoves a stick with a cotton bud up my one nostril and then the other He drops the stick in the round metal bin at his feet and signals the person behind me to come forward I passed the test, such as it was

Turkmenistan is different Few people visit and those who do usually join a group tour or engage a private guide Unless you speak Turkmen, it would be almost impossible to manage the border crossing without a guide

Our guide completes an immigration form He then passes us each a blank form, written in Turkmen with instructions to copy the completed form We comply and sign our forms, not knowing what we’ve agreed to

A stamp in my passport, dated October 2024, identifies me as visitor number 4022

After a long, unexplained wait at the border, we drag our suitcases across the dusty, cracked bitumen to the bus

The only diners, we lunch in a large white hotel, seemingly in the middle of nowhere Opposite the hotel, five gold carpet designs, each representing a region of Turkmenistan, decorate a gleaming yurt-like building It’s a wedding palace, where couples register their marriage and hold the wedding reception

After lunch, we exchange the bus for 4x4 vehicles Attempting to miss the many potholes, our driver frequently swerves, often crossing on to the wrong side of the road Unlike me, he’s unconcerned by the oncoming traffic As I bounce and sway from side to side in the back seat, the grey-green scrub dotting the sandy Karakum Desert flashes past my dusty window

A train of chocolate brown camels appears unexpectedly, walking majestically across the desolate landscape We stop and roll down our windows The camels smell Their fur is mangy, the wool falling off in clumps

At a teahouse, a man sits cross-legged on a carpeted daybed, his slip-on shoes placed neatly on the floor beside him He deftly slices a strip off a melon and offers it to me Biting into the fruit, the cool, sweet juice drips through my fingers A warm welcome to Turkmenistan

Our accommodation for the night is a yurt near the Darvaza Crater Also known as the Door to Hell, the crater is a 30m-deep pit about 76m across in a natural gas field It has been burning since the 1970s

As the sun sets, the walls glow orange, the heat from the fire warms Plumes of orange-tinted dust blow with the wind above the craggy rim

Leaving the crater behind, our dusty journey through the desert continues On the outskirts of Ashgabat, the capital, our 4x4 vehicle, covered in grime and dust, stops at the side of the road

We must change vehicles

Why? Because it’s illegal to drive a dirty car in Ashgabat And there’s another thing Not only must all cars be clean They must be white or, at the very least, silver

In our clean, white vehicle, we drive into the city along wide multi-laned roads Every car in the midday traffic is white Buses are white

Small delivery vans and trucks are white

So are the buildings, each one clad in white marble With more than 500 white marble buildings spread over 4 5 million square metres, Ashgabat holds the Guinness World Record for having the highest concentration of white marble buildings in the world

A 133m high flagpole, which we view from the

entrance to the National Museum of History, held the Guinness record as the world’s highest flagpole for two short years Tajikistan erected a taller one in 2010

Turkmenistan, not to be outdone, has plans to build the world’s biggest teahouse (in reality, a meeting place for visiting dignitaries), a title currently held by a teahouse in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan

The country holds another Guinness World Record The white Olympic Stadium, opened in 2017 to host the Asian Olympic Council’s Asian Indoor and Martial Arts Games, holds the record for having the world’s largest horse head sculpture White, of course, it gazes into the stadium from the curved rooftop and represents Turkmenistan’s national emblem, the AkhalTeke horse

Turkmenistan celebrates the National Day of the Horse with races and beauty contests for horses It is the only country that has a Ministry of Horses

There’s also a Ministry of Carpets

Driving through the city, I notice colourful murals, several storeys high, depicting various carpet designs decorating the ends of a row of apartment buildings Our guide tells us that only people who work for the Ministry of Carpets can buy an apartment there

Carpets are so important in Turkmenistan that master carpet weavers are honoured on the last Sunday in May, Carpet Day Five carpet designs

appear on the national flag, they decorate our hotel reception area, are integrated into stair railings, and adorn the entrance to a large shopping centre

We stop to photograph the Ruhnama Monument, a giant, pink-edged book with the author’s gold profile on the green face Ruhnama (The Book of the Soul), written by Saparmurat Niyazov, the first President of Turkmenistan, was required reading in schools and universities for the time of his rule, which ended with his death in 2006

People sitting for their driver’s licence were even tested on Ruhnama

Paging through an English version of the book at the Russian Bazaar, I read snippets of what seems like a memoir describing his early life Ruhnama is the only thing of interest in the rather sterile market where stallholders wear uniforms, produce is neatly stacked, and few customers wander the aisles Not at all what I expected from a Central Asian bazaar

Back in the bus, I notice a woman wiping the glass of the traffic lights clean Ashgabat is spotless Teams of women sweep paved areas with brush brooms Others polish sentry boxes as the soldiers stand unmoving inside, staring into the distance

At intervals along the route to our hotel are

Rakiura Stewart Island offers new experiences

One of the many reasons to holiday in Southland is the ease of access to Rakiura Stewart Island With its unique sense of “islandness” an island visit is the perfect opportunity to unlock new experiences:

GETTINGTHEREispartofthe ADVENTURE

DepartingfromInvercargillAirport theStewartIslandFlightsteamcanfly youtoyourdestinationin20minutes Flyingingivesyouadramaticviewof thecinematicisland,with1200kmsof coastlinewrappingaroundbaysand inlets

Fromthehilltopairstripyouwillbe transportedintotownbyminivan Or,foranalternativeadventurethe RealNZferryserviceoperates daily sailingsdepartingfromBluffona seasonalschedule Thetripacross FoveauxStraittakesaboutanhour

KIWISoutnumber PEOPLE

Theislandhasapermanent populationof400plusresidentsliving inoraroundObanthesoletownship Somearedirectdescendantsofthe earliestinhabitantswhilemanylater arrivalswerecaptivatedbytheisland wayoflifeandsimplyneverleft Thereare20,000RakiuraTokoeka (southernbrownkiwi)onthe islandoutnumberingtheirhuman

neighbours50:1Unliketheir mainlandrelatives thesebirdsarelarge standingaround 40cmwhenfully grownandcan beseenoutand aboutduring daylighthours

BUSH dominatesthe ISLAND

Eighty-fiveper centoftheisland’s landareaiscovered byRakiuraNationalPark Createdin2002andspanning157,000 ha,itisanexampleofprimevalforest Set asideasastateforestin1886, bytheearly1900sthemajorityof theisland’slandhadreservestatus andduetoweather,topography andresourcestherehasbeenlittle developmentinland Thebushisold, majesticandunforgettable

TAKEyourHIKINGBOOTS

Walkersofallabilitieswillenjoy

Stewart Island Backpackers: Your base to undiscovered adventure

At the bottom of the world, where the Tasman Sea meets the Southern Ocean, lies New Zealand’s best-kept secret Stewart Island

TuckedintotheheartofHalfmoon Bay,thefamily-runStewartIsland Backpackersservesasyourperfect basecampforexploringthisuntamed wildernessparadise,withalllocal facilitiesjuststepsfrom yourdoor Justfiveminutesfromtheferryterminal, thiswelcominghosteleliminatesarrival stresswhileconnectingyoutothe island’swildsoul Whatmakesthisplace specialishowtheknowledgeablestaff becomeyourwildernessconcierge, sharinginsidertipsonkiwispotting locations,weatherwindowsforthe famousRakiuraTrack,andhiddengems mostvisitorsneverdiscover Thehostel’sfullkitchenfacilitiesand spaciouscommunalareasfoster authentictravellerconnections in thespaciouskitchen,you’llswaptrail storieswithhikersfreshoffmulti-day adventures,whilethecomfortable loungebecomesaneveninghubfor planningdawnexpeditionsorsharing photosofrareyellow-eyedpenguins Withnewlyrenovatedaccommodation rangingfrombudgetdormbedsto privatetwinanddoublerooms,plus campingoptions,StewartIsland

Backpackerscatersperfectlytosolo adventurers,couples,families,andlarge groupsalike Forseriousadventurers tacklingoneofNewZealand’sGreat Walks,thesecureluggagestorage anddryingroomsproveinvaluable Thetowel-includedpricingremoves hasslefromwhatcouldbeyourmost challenging andrewarding New Zealandhikingexperience

Whetherconqueringthefull 32-kilometerRakiuraTrackorsampling daywalksthroughancientpodocarp forests,you’llreturntogenuinecomfort TheBBQareasturnintoimpromptu celebrationswheretramperstoast successfultrackcompletions,creating atemporarycommunityofexplorers thatwillmakeyourjourneymore memorable

AtStewartIslandBackpackers, competitivepricingmeetsgenuine hospitality Withdormbedsfrom$53 andprivateroomsat$115,andthoughtful amenities,thissmartaccommodation letsyouinvestmoreinislandadventures andlessinoverpricedlodging

stewartislandbackpackersconz

exploringthe islandonfoot Fromshortwalks aroundtowntothe morechallenging RakiuraTrack, Northernand SouthernCircuits hereissomethingfor eryone–theisland morethan280kmsof walkingtracks(comparedto32 kmsofroad)

THEREISarangeof ACCOMMODATIONonoffer Rangingfromatraditionalhotel experiencetomotels,B&B’s, boutiqueestablishmentsandselfcateringhousestoawell-appointed backpackersthereissomethingfor everyone

Visitourwebsiteforaccommodation options

TASTEthedeliciousnessof RAKIURA’SSEAFOOD

StewartIslandisrenownedforthe qualityofitskaimoana Itsfarmed salmon,bluecod,pauaandgreen lippedmusselsareconsideredthe bestinAotearoaduetothecool watertemperatures Foratrulylocal experiencetastetesttiti(mutton bird)whichisharvestedseasonally fromRakiura’soffshoremuttonbird islands

WANTalongerSTAY?

Thereareseasonalemployment opportunitiesoverthesummer monthsintourismrelatedservices Askaroundorperusethenotice boardoutsidethelocal4-Squarefor information

VISITstewartisland.co.nzfor INFORMATIONontours,activities, accommodationanditineraries

Central Asia: Turkmenistan »

From p30

space-age-looking structures These bus stops are air-conditioned in summer and heated in winter They each have a television installed to entertain commuters while they wait With CCTV everywhere, there’s no likelihood of the televisions being stolen

We pass an ornate cube-shaped building Each side is a huge eight-pointed star enclosing an enormous silver ball It’s the Ashgabat Wedding Palace, otherwise known as the Palace of Happiness

I can see the Wedding Palace from my hotel window Behind it is a sea of white buildings

A bright green fairway from the golf course abuts the main road leading away from the hotel On the other side, newly planted trees struggle to survive in the bare desert sand

At night the scene changes Colourful neon lights decorate the buildings The Wedding Palace changes colour from pale blue to gold, then red and purple

The next morning, our guide receives a call We’re being bumped from our hotel Vladimir Putin is in town and needs our rooms for his entourage “Just more quirk,” I think as I climb into our clean white car for the drive through the white marble city to our new hotel

International flights to Istanbul, returning from Vienna

BONUS 2 Night hotel stay to explore Istanbul

One way flight from Istanbul to Bucharest

BONUS Select transfers included throughout your journey

BONUS 1 Night hotel stay to explore Bucharest

12 Day river cruise from Bucharest to Vienna onboard Avalon Waterways in a Panorama Suite

Enjoy an overnight stay onboard in Budapest to enjoy Avalons newly launched After Dark program

Cruise along the historic Danube River and witness the Iron Gates

Seasonal and locally sourced a la carte menus across flexible dining venues

Regional wine and beer served with lunch and dinner, plus daily happy hour Specialty onboard entertainment

BONUS Wifi onboard and prepaid gratuities

BONUS Daily onshore excursions with expert guides

BONUS 1 Night hotel stay to explore Vienna

BONUS My Cruises package savings

FULLY ESCORTED GROUP TOURS

Join one of our escorted tours as we travel to an exciting range of fantastic overseas destinations. Travel in comfort and confidence on our overseas tours designed for seniors Enjoy a relaxed pace, quality experiences, and the company of like minded travellers with an expert tour leader

MELBOURNE FLOWER SHOW

23-28 March 2026, 6 days from $5,250

Join us for a delightful getaway to the Melbourne International Flower and Garden Show

Explore stunning floral displays and enjoy guided visits to top gardens including Melbourne Botanic Gardens, Coombe Melba Estate, Cloudehill, Geelong, and Werribee Park Mansion

Tour highlights include:

• Admission to Melbourne International Flower & Garden Show

• Guided tour of the Melbourne Botanic Gardens

• Guided tour of Coombe Melba Estate Gardens

• Visit Cloudehill Gardens & Nursery

• Portarlington Ferry trip across Port Phillip Bay

BEST OF ENGLAND & SCOTLAND PLUS THE CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW

4-24 May 2026, 21 days from $21,950 pp

Discover the rich heritage and natural beauty of England and Scotland Visit stately castles, vibrant gardens, and picturesque villages Journey through the majestic Scottish Highlands and spend a full day exploring the dazzling displays at the iconic Chelsea Flower Show Tour highlights include:

• Discover London and Edinburgh with sightseeing tours

• Visit historic sites including Beaulieu, Blenheim Palace, and Shakespeare’s birthplace

• Enjoy garden experiences at Wisley, Sudeley Castle, and the Chelsea Flower Show

• Cruise Lake Windermere and ride a heritage steam train

• Explore the Isle of Sky

WILD WONDERS OF SOUTHERN AFRICA

17 Jul – 6 Aug 2026, 21 days from $19,990 pp

Embark on a fully escorted Southern Africa tour, beginning with two nights in Singapore before journeying through South Africa, Eswatini, and Zimbabwe This unforgettable experience blends stunning landscapes, wildlife, and cultural heritage across some of Southern Africa’s most iconic regions

Tour highlights include:

• Sunset cruise on the Zambezi River

• Discover the unique culture of Eswatini

• Game drives in Southern Africa’s top national parks

• Exploring Victoria Falls - one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World

• Visits to historic sites and museums

Visit our website to see the full touring programme or contact us for a copy of our travel brochure

Extreme travel »

Step off the beaten path and into the downright bizarre with some of the world’s most extreme travel experiences, writes

Naomi Chadderton

Volcano boarding in Nicaragua

If you’ve perfected snowboarding and are looking for your next big adrenaline fix then it might be time to head to Nicaragua here you can strap on a board and fly down the country’s youngest volcano, Cerro Negro, which, due to its active status, is completely covered in loose volcanic ash Most tours begin bright and early in Leon, where operators pick up adventurers for the journey to Cerro Negro, where you’ll begin the exhilarating ascent to the 726m summit Just keep in mind you’ll be carrying your board all the way to the top, so come prepared for a bit of a workout before the real thrill begins Visit from November to April for peak conditions

Swimming with jellyfish in Palau

Did your mother always tell you to keep away from jellyfish? As much as you should usually stand by her advice, you can take no notice in Palau in the South Pacific, where you can safely swim with millions of them as they migrate across Jellyfish Lake The species of jellyfish in this 6ha saltwater lake has evolved without their stingers so while no scuba diving is allowed to protect the animals, you can snorkel with them to your heart’s content as they make their way through the depths of the lake, acquiring necessary nitrogen and other nutrients Be sure to bring an underwater camera

Abseiling down Table Mountain

While climbing Table Mountain in South Africa is up there on many travellers’ bucket-list experiences, you’ll most likely find them taking the cable car down If you’re feeling adventurous, however, why not experience a completely different descent by abseiling down a 112m section of rockface? Done under expert safety and instruction, not only will you be able to enjoy the mountain’s jaw-dropping views of Cape Town from a completely different angle, you will also feel like you have the place completely to yourself, turning a popular tourist trek into your own private adventure

dolls, collecting them obsessively, even trading food for them Today locals believe each doll holds a piece of the girl’s spirit, and you can take a tour around the island if you dare

Exploring the Ghost Town of Namibia

Visiting the Island of the Dolls

A must for fans of horror movies, the Island of the Dolls, or “La Isla de la Munecas” in Spanish, is perhaps one of the creepiest tourist attractions in the world, located in Xochimilco near Mexico City Legend has it that a man called Don Julian Santana moved to this island after leaving his wife, but when a young girl drowned nearby, her spirit began haunting the place To appease her, Don Julian hung a doll in a tree (some say it was one that washed ashore where she died), but the activity only intensified, so he kept adding more

While Namibia may be known for its otherworldly landscapes and exotic wildlife, it is also home to one of the most unique towns in the world Once a rich diamond mining town, Kolmanskop has been abandoned since the 1950s, and has been slowly reclaimed by the desert over the years, with its 32 buildings almost entirely covered in sand You must obtain a permit to enter, with a standard ticket allowing access during normal operating hours, and a photography permit allowing you access out of hours

Skydiving in Belize’s Blue Hole

If the idea of jumping out of a plane and straight into turquoise waters sounds like your kind of thrill, Belize has you sorted So much more than a regular skydive, you’ll freefall from 3000m

above the Blue Hole an enormous marine sinkhole surrounded by a vibrant reef and land in the water before hopping aboard a boat, gearing up and diving beneath the surface to explore this Unesco-listed wonder You can book this once-in-a-lifetime experience through Skydive Belize, and while it doesn’t come cheap, the memories are priceless

Catch a tornado on a storm-chasing tour in the US

If you’ve always dreamed of getting up close and personal with nature’s most powerful forces after watching Twister as a kid, a storm-chasing tour across America’s Tornado Alley is the ultimate thrill Join expert meteorologists in Oklahoma, Kansas and Texas to track and follow severe supercell storms, with the hope of witnessing a tornado These multi-day tours involve long drives, real-time forecasting and unpredictable weather all part of the excitement and while safety is paramount, nothing quite compares to the heart-pounding moment a twister forms on the horizon This is extreme tourism at its finest

ZEALAND GOLD RAIL ODYSSEY