Travel 25th February 2025

The EUROPE EDITION

“Viking

is great for travellers who don’t just want to see the world, but want to understand it and know more about it. To learn something of other cultures and other histories.”

BERNARD O

MEDITERRANEAN’S ICONIC SHORES

Barcelona to Istanbul or vice versa

29 DAYS | 8 COUNTRIES | 23 GUIDED TOURS SET SAIL: AUG-DEC 2025; MAR-NOV 2026; FEB-MAY, JUL 2027

From AU$23,095pp in Veranda Stateroom

From AU$27,595pp in Penthouse Veranda

VIKING HOMELANDS

Stockholm to Bergen or vice versa

15 DAYS | 6 COUNTRIES | 11 GUIDED TOURS

SET SAIL: APR-MAY, SEP 2025; APR-AUG 2026; JUN-AUG 2027

From AU$13,195pp in Deluxe Veranda From AU$15,895pp in Penthouse Veranda

Bergen to London or vice versa

15 DAYS | 6 COUNTRIES | 12 GUIDED TOURS

SET SAIL: MAY-SEP 2025; MAR-SEP 2026; APR-SEP 2027

From AU$11,695pp in Veranda Stateroom

From AU$13,695pp in Penthouse Veranda

EXPL RER SALE

Sailing to all seven continents, the whole world awaits

Discovering another culture is a wondrous awakening Sail with us to extraordinary shores where you can immerse yourself in new destinations and unique experiences

Each day you will have the opportunity to truly experience the best of your destination, from castles steeped in history to outdoor markets brimming with local colour

We all travel to explore, to learn, to understand, and The Viking Way of exploration offers behind-the-scenes insights and opportunities that set us apart – taking you to both the expected and iconic as well as opening doors to ports less visited From ship to shore we design experiences for unparalleled access and cultural enrichment

GRAND

Our award-winning ships are just the right size to take you to where you want to go, with a signature Scandinavian design that draws inspiration from our Nordic heritage And our all-inclusive pricing ensures you will not have to incur an expense every time you want a cup of coffee, a glass of wine, or an excursion on shore

Whether by river or ocean, we have crafted unforgettable journeys across all seven continents so you can explore more of the world Enjoy free flight offers with selected river, ocean or expedition voyages, valued up to AU$2,400 per person. Plus AU$500 shipboard credit with any ocean and expedition booking Available for a limited time only, offers end 31 March 2025.

From

From

Stateroom

in Veranda Stateroom

FERRYSMART A

GREECEIS

THERAFFLES

JOUST

NIGHTMOVES

NORWEGIAN

SKETCHES OFSPAIN

CONTACTS

Lifestyleand TravelEditor

Premium: Stephanie Holmes

Lifestyleand TravelEditor

Audience: Jenni Mortimer

Magazines NewsEditor: Brenda Ward

Designer: Rob Cox

Magazines TeamLeader: Isobel Marriner

SubEditors: Jill Stanford Courtney Whitaker Sue Baxalle

Cover: Naxos, Greek Islands

Photo / 123rf

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HOT DEALS

Italy’s bestattractions

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HIGHLIGHTS

• 28 nights cruising Sydney to Auckland on Noordam

• Onboard South Pacific experts

• Main meals & entertainment onboard ITINERARY:

Sydney Moreton Island Brisbane Townsville Cairns, Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, Fiji, Tonga, Bay of Islands, Tauranga, Auckland

Departs: 4 January 2026

Europe: Ferrying »

Ferry

smart

If you are looking for a cheaper alternative to a European cruise, ferry rides take you from A to B, and do it in style, writes Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

Europe is a great continent to explore by cruise There are three seas, an ocean, and large rivers winding their way through historical cities But cruises can be expensive, lengthy, and don’t allow you time to spend along the way in places you might want to linger a little The good thing is so many waterways also means there are connections between main hubs by ferry, allowing you to hop on and off at your leisure and even take your car, if you are on a road trip

You get that cruise feeling for a while, with plenty of great sights along the way, and you save money while you are at it

Here are some of the most scenic ferry connections in Europe, from north to south

Around the Scottish Isles

Scotland is a rugged region and best explored either by car or by boat It’s even better if you can use both to get into the nooks and crannies, as they say up there With some 900 islands off the coast of Scotland, split into four main groups the Inner and Outer Hebrides, Shetland and Orkney Isles there are a lot of islands to choose from But, because people need to connect with

Stockholm to Helsinki to Tallinn

The overnight trip joining the Swedish capital of Stockholm with the Finnish capital of Helsinki can nearly count as a mini-cruise Viking Line and Tallink Silja Line take the route between Stockholm and Finland, with an extra leg to Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, if you so wish

The first leg is overnight and you can book a cabin with all the comforts, stop off in Helsinki for sightseeing, then head across to Tallinn, a mere two hour, 45 minutes hop, a few days later

The big ferries come with all the cruise comforts you may expect, such as restaurants and shops, but also with a sauna and more Leaving Stockholm, manoeuvring through the Swedish archipelago is the most scenic stretch of the journey and the views as you arrive in Helsinki are also impressive

For hardy travellers, taking the trip in winter is gorgeous Don some warm clothing because the Baltic quite often freezes over, not enough to stop the ferries but enough to make for a spectacular journey

the mainland, most islands are connected with each other or with the mainland by ferry, making a plan-it-yourself cruise by ferry one of the best adventures to be had in this northern European country

Not only do the ferries allow you to reach faraway isles in reasonable, if sometimes somewhat rough comfort, but also you get to see birds, seals and even whales along the way

Vienna to Bratislava or Budapest to Vienna River cruises on Europe’s large rivers are a popular holiday, especially along the Danube, which runs through several historic capital cities But the cruises take time and come at a price So, why not simply hop on a ferry from Vienna to Bratislava, the Slovakian capital? A mere one hour, 15 minutes down the river and you reach Bratislava Not that cheap, at around ¤150 ($276), but you can bring a car

There used to be a commuter ferry to Budapest but sadly the connection has stopped and been replaced with a tourist hydrofoil connecting

Budapest and Vienna, offering a day’s sightseeing, a night’s stay, and return trip

Venice to Burano

Short and sweet, this is a true local commuter trip, even if many tourists have by now cottoned on to the fact that this is also one of the most beautiful ways to connect some islands in the Venetian Lagoon

Take the Vaporetti 12 and 14, which leave from either San Zaccaria (near St Mark’s Basilica) or the Fondamente Nove, towards Burano, the picture-perfect island filled with colourful fishermen’s houses Along the way, the boat stops at the glassmaking island of Murano, and the islands of Mazzorbo and Torcello At Murano, most tourists get off and you’ll be surrounded by locals who have gone shopping in Venice and are returning home

The trip takes around 45 minutes, with the boats leaving every 20 minutes in either direction, and is admittedly short, but also the best way to enjoy Venice and some of its islands, other than using a touristy tour

Barcelona to Mallorca

Want to cruise across the Mediterranean Sea from Barcelona to Mallorca in the Balearics?

Then you have options There is a fast connection, taking you across in a mere 3 5 hours, or you can take it easy and go overnight, with crossings taking up to 8 5 hours, allowing you to have dinner on board and sleep in a cabin Depending on your schedule, using both options

for a return trip might make for a good mix of cruise and ferry, and both companies allow you to bring the car Once in Mallorca, you can connect, again by ferry, with the smaller Menorca or the party island of Ibiza

The Greek Islands

ferries, taking their sweet time, each having individual advantages and drawbacks, depending on your time frame and budget

Spain to the Canary Islands

Burano in

is filled with colourful fishermen’s houses; right, ferry rides let you hop between Greek islands, such as Naxos and coastal cities at your own

The ferries connecting the Greek mainland with its myriad islands are legendary, plentiful, and the views along the way are epic The only problem is choosing which islands you want to visit and trying to narrow down the options Santorini makes a good starting point, with the daily ferries from Piraeus, just outside of Athens, taking around seven hours to cross the turquoise Mediterranean Sea to the island with its photogenic white and blue villages Once on Santorini, there are countless choices of islands, and ferries, ranging from fast but enclosed catamarans and hydrofoils, to large bumbling car

Starting off in Cadiz in Andalucia, you can embark on a fabulous island cruise: after a roughly 36-hour ferry trip down to Gran Canaria, off the African coast, you can then spend days on each of the volcanic Canary Islands, connecting to each with a short ferry ride Hop from Gran Canaria to Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, Tenerife and onwards, with the individual islands a couple of hours from each other For ease, you can take the car from Spain, allowing you the freedom to road trip across the islands, exploring remote corners The ferries don’t necessarily have a daily schedule, requiring a little advance planning, but there is the possibility to make this into a ferry cruise around the Canary Islands, and back to the mainland

Spain to Morocco

Maybe too short to count as a cruise alternative, but certainly one of the most scenic hops mentioned here, is the connection between Algeciras in southern Spain in Europe and Tangier, Morocco in Africa The ferry takes you past the rock of Gibraltar, close enough to spot some monkeys, and then across the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea from the Atlantic Ocean connecting continents and seas along a historic and unique route

One way only takes 1 5 hours, making a day return utterly feasible, and you can turn this trip into a picture-perfect cruising day with lunch in Africa Not something you can do anywhere else

Competition »

SHORT STORY

COMPETITION

Congratulations to the winner of The Auckland Travel Show Powered by Allianz Short Travel Story Competition.

The winner is Shane Ogg of Auckland, who wins an $8000 House of Travel Gift card

Judge Brenda Ward of Travel magazine says: “We were amazed at the quality of the writing and the rich and colourful experiences our readers wrote about Those that made it into our finalists’ list were all stories that were inspirational and fascinating ”

SECOND PLACE

Sands of time: An adventure of a lifetime

WINNER

Sorrento: A dream in lemon and gold

The scent of citrus drifted through the warm Sorrento air as I wandered through the sun-drenched lemon groves My host, Nonna Lucia, handed me a glass of freshly made limoncello, its golden hue catching the afternoon light Salute! she cheered, and I sipped, tasting the perfect balance of sweetness and zest

Mornings were spent exploring the rugged Amalfi coastline waves crashing against ancient cliffs Afternoons I wandered Capri’s winding streets where whitewashed villas clung to the hillsides But the moment that stayed with me most? Standing in the eerie ruins of Pompeii, imagining life before the ash fell This was more than a holiday; it was an immersion into Italy s soul As I watched the sunset paint the Bay of Naples in shades of orange and rose I knew: I wasn t just visiting I was living the dream Shane Ogg, Auckland

Sands of time: An adventure of a lifetime. Photo / Supplied

It was a hot, crisp, cloudless day in Egypt I walked on the ground where ancient pharaohs once stood The fi sand trickled beneath my feet as if the sands of time in an hourglass taking me back to ancient times It seem only yesterday that as a child I dreamed of exploring ancient Egyptian tombs That dream finally became a reality for me as I sifted through trinkets and knickknacks at bazaars and souks at the famous and histori Khan el-Khalili in Cairo The wonder and amazement I felt while wandering into a fully preserved pyramid we indescribable The ancient Egyptians had painted the stars and moon inside these lavish tombs that made lif feel fleeting and death bittersweet The colours on the walls and ceilings were still so very strikingly vivid, alm as if they had just been painted. This trip changed my lif forever, and for good Leah Case Auckl

IRD PLACE place I want to be day I will return to this beautiful city of my dreams The wonderful memories it holds of strolling hand in hand through the tree-lined main et Dappled sun filtering through the leaves Street stalls selling their es beautiful, bright bouquets of flowers and tacky touristy knick-knacks eetlights giving a sense of times gone by Meandering through the warren shaded side streets stumbling across the most amazing architecture, uries-old churches, Gothic buildings and balconied apartments that heir own story in history Perusing the many little shops and peering the menus of the many restaurants Delicious smells wafting through doorways Losing myself in the ambience of this amazing city The art history the culture So much more to see and the place I want to be celona!

McDonald, Auckland

OTHER FINALISTS

Connor Redding, Wellington: Amalfi Nightfall sijah Morehu, Auckland: Van and Two Islands

erena Kelly, Whangārei: What Dreams Are Made Of ean Mascarenhas, Auckland: ggling Gunshots Jennifer Moor, Auckland: At Last! Lala Cullen, Hamilton: Bydand

Jessica Hanff, Auckland: Get him to the Greek Christine Hannah, Auckland: Solo Marguerite Sakey, Auckland: Memories!

NEW FRONTIERS, NEW ADVENTURES

Broaden your horizons in 2025 with

to Africa, the Arctic and beyond.

Yminutes with Rachel Williams before you start getting itchy feet Her passion for travel, or more accurately, adventure, is infectious Rachel has dedicated her life to exploring the world beyond the usual tourist routes

From her backpacking days when she met her partner, Brendan, a driver on an overland tour in Africa to founding Viva Expeditions, she has always sought out the extraordinary Her company is devoted to taking people to places they’ve never been, in comfort and style

These are adventures for people who want to truly experience a new part of the world “There’s no looking through the window of an air-conditioned bus so you can say you’ve ‘ticked that one off’,” laughs Rachel “We focus on immersing ourselves in different cultures, meeting locals and being part of their daily life Our trips are designed for those looking for unique experiences but with the peace of mind that everything is expertly planned Our team and network of guides on the ground, understand the value of authentic travel It’s about creating life-changing, mind-expanding memories

Rachel and Brendan, brought together by their shared love of travel, spent years leading groups through West Africa “It was pretty wild,” she recalls “We crossed the Sahara, travelled up the Niger River to Timbuktu it was real adv travel ” They then headed for South America, leading

four-month expeditions through Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay and Brazil, where their trips culminated in Rio de Janeiro for Carnival Years of travel gave them invaluable experience building lo logistics and crafting pers experiences for travellers insights led to a big idea: their own travel company

“We saw a gap in the market,” says Rachel “Adventure travel wasn’t just for young backpackers There were seasoned travellers over 40 who had done Europe and wanted to explore further ”

So 16 years ago from Rachel’s mother’s garage in New Zealand, Viva Expeditions was born The couple moved to Ecuador, living in the spare parts room of a coach builder while designing an upscale overland vehicle It carried 16 people and included a toilet, kitchen and all the comforts needed for long-haul travel They never looked back

Today, Viva Expeditions is a leader in premium adventure travel More than ever, travellers are seeking hosted journeys into uncharted territories, where they can join small groups led b ides with deep wledge Bespoke aries are also a major t of their business “Clients tell us where they want to go, what their interests are,

and when they’re travelling Our team curates the perfect itinerary, ensuring they have top-tier accommodation and experiences,” Rachel explains “We focus on destinations like Latin America, Africa, parts of the Middle East, Antarctica and the Arctic We’re not really interested in the mainstream We love to do what people consider the ‘hard stuff’; doing the research so they have the very best experience ”

One area of focus is Antarctica Postpandemic, interest in the region has surged Rachel, who has organised and participated in multiple expeditions there, emphasises the importance of choosing the right expedition

“Some large cruise ships carry over 500 passengers, but they can’t disembark They just sail past see the ice, and leave We work with vessels carrying fewer than 200 people, which allows for twice-daily landings and a much better experience Our trips depart from the southern tip of South America, offering better access to

ntarctic Peninsula, where ected bays provide ideal nditions for wildlife viewing ”

Strict environmental regulations ensure minimal impact

“Fortunately there are rules to protect this pristine region,” Rachel adds One of the company ’ s most successful Antarctica trips was hosted by Rt Hon Sir John Key, an example of how Viva Expeditions continually novates to enhance the vel experience

HE ARCTIC Rachel will lead an nto the Arctic She spent st year, meticulously mapping out the best route, ship and expert-led experiences “The Arctic and Antarctica are entirely different,” she explains “Yes, they’re both frozen, but the Arctic has indigenous communities polar bears walrus and the south,” she laughs “And there are no penguins ”

eye-opening

“You don’t know what to expect until you arrive, and then it’s mind-blowing ”

This 10-day adventure begins in Helsinki, Finland, before a private

Longyearbyen There, they will board the luxurious Ultramarine, setting sail through the Svalbard archipelago home to one of the world’s highest concentrations of polar bears Guests disembark to visit remote villages, observe walrus colonies, and hike on

Zodiac boats take travellers across icy waters, offering up-close encounters with seals, glaciers and seabirds

“The sound and sight of the ship

carving through ice is unforgettable ” says Rachel Onboard, geologists and marine biologists provide insightful lectures, helping travellers understand the region’s ecology “This isn’t a cruise with cabaret shows,” she laughs

opportunity to learn about this fragile, fascinating par of the world ”

The camaraderie onboar is another highlight “Every shares a curiosity and sens wonder Plus, the food is in discussions about the day’s adventures ”

AFRICA BY RAIL

Not one to rest on her laurels, Rachel is launching another exciting expedition in 2025: a luxury rail journey through Africa The August tri ill b h d by television person “Hilary was thrilled t “seeing it as a chanc territory in comfort, like-minded adventu

This 10-day trip ab one of the world’s mo luxurious trains depa from Pretoria, South Africa and winds through Kruger

National Park Guests will visit Kapama Private Game Reserve and the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre before crossing into Zimbabwe and concluding at Victoria Falls

The train itself is a masterpiece, featuring plush wood-panelled sleeping cabins, elegant dining rooms serving gourmet meals

wines, a bar car, and observation decks Imagine sipping morning tea in bed as Africa’s stunning landscapes roll past your window Along the way guests disembark for safaris, cultural encounters in remote villages, and exclusive meet-and-greets with locals connected to Viva Expeditions The steady rhythm of train travel offers a uniquely immersive way to connect with Africa’s breathtaking beauty

Whether it’s dining in a hidden gem of a restaurant, forging connections with local communities, or witnessing nature’s wonders in the most remote corners of the planet, Viva Expeditions offers a gateway to a richer, more authentic way of seeing the world

“This planet is

incredible ” Rachel says “There’s so much to explore and so much to learn We want to help people discover it ” She cautions against choosing travel experiences based solely on cost “It’s tempting to book the cheapest tour

quality The people you meet the places you stay, and the experiences you have make all the difference You may not return to a destination, so you want to make sure you do it right

“Imagine watching whales surface in the crystal-clear waters of the Arctic or sipping coffee as a herd of elephants passes by your train window These are the once-in-a-lifetime moments we create,” says Rachel

Ultimately, Rachel’s passion lies in taking travellers off the beaten track “I love showing people a different side of the world beyond the queues at the Louvre or Sagrada Família Our trips attract mindful travellers looking for deeper, more meaningful experiences ”

GREECE IS THE WORD

Messenia is an undiscovered alternative on the Greek mainland, writes Jill Robbins

Messenia in the southwest Peloponnese is an easy, 2 5-hour scenic drive from Athens and delivers gorgeous coastal scenery without leaving the mainland The area has four luxury resorts tucked into a quiet community with four golf courses, three spas, a tennis centre, hiking trails, and beaches where visitors can swim and participate in water sports in the Ionian Sea

This region is a lesser-known holiday destination that tempts holidaymakers who seek a different experience than the Greek hotspots we see on everyone else’s social media feeds

trilogy, directed by Richard Linklater and starring Ethan Hawke, may find the setting extra meaningful, but seeing the movies before the trip is optional

Where to stay

Fun fact: The film Before Midnight was set in the Peloponnese, and many of the locations showcased in the movie are in Messenia Fans of the film may recognise the scenery from the town of Pylos The dramatic hotel room scene between characters Celine and Jesse was filmed at the Westin Costa Navarino Fans of the Before

Main: Pylos harbour at sunset; above, the Peloponnese region including Messenia is known as the cradle of Greek mythology and history Photos / Getty Images; 123rf

For travellers wanting a taste of the luxe life, there are four resorts under the Costa Navarino brand: Mandarin Oriental Costa Navarino, W Costa Navarino, the Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort, and the Westin, mentioned above

The Mandarin Oriental is a top-tier luxury property with rooms and villas, many with private pool decks, built into a hillside overlooking the bay The W Costa Navarino is an upscale property with a sleek, playful vibe for adults and children over 12 The Romanos and the Westin are co-located and share a common Agora, a gathering space with shops, restaurants, and bars where you’ll find everything from fine dining to gelato The Westin and the Romanos offer comfortable, laid-back luxury and have separate lobbies and different architectural details, although the aesthetic and landscaping of both properties blend seamlessly Out of all four resorts, the Westin is the most kid-friendly, with its onsite waterpark pool and organised youth activities

It’s easy to hop between Costa Navarino’s four Messenian resorts if you want to check out different restaurants and shops If you’ve rented a car, it’s a short, easy drive, and if you’re sans wheels, there’s a free shuttle that makes regularly scheduled runs between the W and the Westin/Romanos

Pylos has smaller boutique hotels in the downtown area for travellers seeking a more budget-friendly experience and comfortable with fewer resort-style amenities Kalamata also has moderately priced hotels on or near the water, and the area is full of holiday rentals for anyone wanting a bit more privacy or a more homelike atmosphere for an extended stay

What to do

Messenia’s proximity to the Ionian Sea makes it a perfect spot for every type of water sport

Water activities range from private yacht charters to snorkelling and diving, including Padi certification and everything in between There’s water skiing, kite surfing, or windsurfing for high adventure seekers or anyone who wants more of a walk on the wild side You can also book a bike excursion from the Westin to Voidokilia Beach, which has

Greece »

Continued from p14

crystal clear, shallow water and soft sand This Omega-shaped beach is an excellent, familyfriendly swimming spot There are few services on the beach, although there is a cafe just a short jaunt up the road

Messenia is also a terrific spot for anyone wanting a sports and wellness-focused trip There are four 18-hole golf courses with all the bells and whistles, such as pro shops and instruction, not to mention jaw-dropping scenery For racquet sport enthusiasts or anyone who’d like to learn, the Moratoglou Tennis Centre has 12 courts, including grass and clay courts, pickleball, and padel courts You can book a court, a lesson, or a session with a pro to hone your skills

There are castle ruins above Voidokilia Beach You can hike the 6km loop trail to the ruins for a stunning view of the beach from above This trail is moderately challenging and has a soft dirt and gravel path, and the trailhead entrance is well-marked Nestor’s Cave, halfway up the trail, makes a cool photo backdrop The large cavernous opening can be seen from the beach below Spring, autumn, or very early in the morning during the summer offer the best weather for those who wish to tackle this hike Summer days are hot, and the trail offers no shade There are opportunities for more rugged hikes in the area that are best attempted with a guide familiar with the trails Navarino Outdoors and Aegean Outdoors both offer a variety of guided adventure tours

If you love food, there’s plenty of opportunity in Messenia to go beyond just sampling delicious Mediterranean cuisine Don’t miss feasting on delicious Kalamata olives in the spot where they’re grown and harvested

On my most recent visit, I took part in an olive oil tasting, which operated similarly to a wine tasting I learned the nuances and undertones of different olive oils, how olives are grown and

Checklist

MESSENIA, GREECE

harvested in the region, and how olive oil stacks up against other types of oils used for cooking

I also took a Messenian cooking class in a private home, which was the greatest highlight of all three of my trips to Greece Under the guidance of my teachers, Anna and Lulu, I learned to make hilopetes (HEE-lo-pee-tez), traditional noodles usually served for Sunday dinner, similar to egg noodles

When to go

Although Messenia is a year-round destination with a mild climate average temperatures are 25C those who want the resort vibes will get the most mileage from a summer stay The high season in July and August will treat visitors to hot, sunny weather, perfect for getting in the water and enjoying abundant water sports Shoulder season travellers March to May

and September to October will find pleasant weather conditions for outdoor sports and activities The summer season is popular with families with kids on school holidays; spring and autumn attract more adult-only groups and sport-focused vacationers Even during the shoulder season, the weather is usually mild enough to enjoy a good pool day, although the sea may be too chilly for comfortable swimming, and many of the water sports outfitters are closed

Note: Costa Navarino resorts generally close in November and reopen in February to align with golf course schedules If you seek a more secluded experience, you’ll find hotels in Pylos and Kalamata that stay open throughout winter Winter visitors can escape the crowds, but the tradeoff is fewer activity choices

UK »

THE RAFFLES TICKET

Katie Riley finds out what it’s like to stay in London’s multibillion-dollar Raffles at The OWO Hotel where Winston Churchill won the war

At The Guards Bar in the Raffles London at The OWO, I gaze out of the window across the street to the Queen’s guards, standing sentry at the official entrance to Buckingham Palace

Inside the aptly named bar, I sip on a martini (shaken, not stirred) It’s only appropriate, given that the building in which I’m currently staying inspired Ian Fleming to write the Bond novels

That story is one of the many historical connections to London’s most prestigious and luxurious hotel I was quickly discovering that a stay at the Raffles OWO was no ordinary experience

Since opening in September 2023, the Raffles London at The OWO (Old War Office) has garnered an astonishing list of accolades Conde Nast called it “the most dazzling hotel to open in London this century” and Time magazine recently added the hotel to its “World’s Greatest Places” list

I checked in for two nights to see if the acclaimed hotel was worth the hype

Located in Whitehall, opposite the Buckingham Palace Horse Guards, the Raffles at The OWO occupies a Grade II listed Edwardian Baroque style building a stone’s throw from Parliament, Westminster Abbey and Downing

St Constructed in 1906, the current building housed the former offices of the British Naval Intelligence and the RAF; it played a significant role in both world wars and is where Chief of the Imperial General Staff Alan Brooke helped Sir Winston Churchill plan the Allied victory over Hitler

As if that pedigree is not impressive enough, the formation of MI5 and MI6, Britain’s Secret Intelligence Service, took place in the building’s basement in 1907, and the novelist Ian Fleming was inspired to write the James Bond books while serving as a Naval Intelligence Officer there The transformation from a former government building to an ultra-luxe hotel began in 2016, when it was acquired by London’s Hinduja Group, who brokered a 250-year lease with the Ministry of Defence After embarking on an eight-year, nearly NZ$3 billion restoration, the hotel opened its doors in September 2023

Entering the reception, I encountered a grand staircase spanning several floors, lit by a doubleheight Murano glass chandelier, and miles of marble balustrades, including a balcony I would later learn was the location of some of Churchill’s famous speeches It was hard not to audibly gasp at the sheer grandeur of the place; it would be the first in a series of jaw-dropping moments during my stay

After an offer of a hot towel and a glass of Laurent-Perrier champagne, I was escorted to my room, marvelling at the details of the hotel along the way the 3 5m-wide hallways with original mosaic tiles, the velvet draperies decorated with buttons identical to the Queen’s horse guards, and the historically accurate lighting fixtures The hotel’s 120 rooms, including 39 suites, were designed by the late Thierry Despont, who worked on the restoration of the Statue of Liberty, and hotel projects like the Plaza in New York and the Ritz in Paris

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UK »

My room, the Westminster Suite, had a bird’seye view of the Horse Guards, and was cloaked in soft colours and silk furnishings A powder room has one of two marble-clad bathrooms, with the second ensuite bathroom furnished with a soaking tub, rain shower, and heated toilet

Despite the dedication to historic details, it was one of the most tech-forward rooms I have encountered Drapes, lighting and room temp are controlled via iPad, as is communications with guest services, dining, and the renowned Raffles butler service

The Raffles at The OWO has a staggering nine restaurants Three are in partnership with Mauro Colagreco, the master chef behind France’s three Michelin-starred Mirazur restaurant

The signature restaurant, Mauro by Mauro Colagreco, is a tasting menu experience showcasing the best of England’s produce, while Mauro’s Table offers private dining with a chef’s kitchen; Saison, is the elegant casual restaurant with a Mediterranean-inspired menu

I enjoyed dinner at Saison, the menu consisting of classic dishes like duck breast and sole meuniere, as well as a rotisserie menu of hand-carved chicken and steak; my Hereford T-bone was butter soft and perfectly seasoned The only element rivalling the decadent cuisine

was the magnificent surroundings With a glass dome, double-height ceilings and a specular hand-painted mural, the restaurant’s environs feel like dining in an enchanted garden

In addition to Chef Colagreco’s restaurants, there is the Parisian Cafe Laperouse, The Drawing Room, Paper Moon, and the forthcoming Langosteria Kioku by Endo is a Japanese-inspired restaurant by Michelinstarred chef Endo Kazutoshi Located on the roof of the hotel with panoramic views of Whitehall, it has the largest collection of sake outside Japan

For Bond fans, it doesn’t get any better than The Spy Bar, the hotel’s subterranean speakeasy bar and lounge Located two floors below the main level, it is accessed by an unassuming door simply marked “007” Behind closed doors, one encounters a vintage desk, tape recording equipment, a telephone and typewriter After gaining your “spy credentials”, or perhaps just a confirmed reservation, another door leads into a dimly lit speakeasy that evokes all the glamour and mystery one would expect from a bar in the place MI6 was established The Spy Bar is so exclusive there is no photography allowed, but anyone hoping to get a glimpse of an actual Aston Martin won’t be disappointed

The next day I took a historical tour, complimentary for guests The tour goes behind the scenes, giving detailed information on the building’s distinctive history, restoration

process, and often includes a peek at the Heritage suites Stepping into the Churchill Suite, a soaring wood-panelled space that had once been the office of Sir Winston Churchill, I’m reminded yet again that this is no ordinary hotel

Though London’s best attractions are mere steps from the hotel’s doors, it wasn’t enough to tempt me to leave And that is the great dilemma of a stay at the Raffles OWO With scores of dining options, a full menu of fitness and wellness offerings, and bespoke experiences, one is happy to remain ensconced for days

The 20m swimming pool beckoned, complete with double-height ceilings, fireplaces and relaxation spaces After a swim, I headed upstairs to the Guerlain Spa Spanning 19,000sq m across four floors, the spa houses nine treatment rooms, all ensuite My therapist Cassie gave me a sublime massage that left me sleepy and relaxed, so I retreated to my suite to reflect on what had been a most indulgent stay

The Raffles London at The OWO is not simply an exceptional hotel with a serious pedigree After a few hours spent there you gain the sense that it’s an honour to lay your head in such an historic and illustrious place And you leave not only with the rejuvenation of a restful break, but the knowledge you’ve been uniquely immersed in history

JOUST IN TIME

Italy is famous for its fabulous food, Roman ruins and dreamy landscapes, but there’s another thing it’s renowned for if you’re a resident, discovers Tiana Templeman

It’s aperitivo hour in the Piazza Grande in the medieval town of Arezzo in Tuscany. Dappled sunlight turns the stone buildings to gold as we sip our wine and take in the classic Italian scenery.

That is until a stallion carrying a man wielding a long wooden lance explodes out of the side street beside us and gallops past our table, so close we can see the sweat glistening on the horse’s flanks and the rider’s concentration as he focuses his laser-sharp gaze on the enemy at the far end of the square.

We’re mesmerised, but the residents barely give them a second glance. The Giostra del Saracino, a biannual jousting tournament that began as a training exercise for knights of old, has been taking place in Arezzo’s town square since the Middle Ages, so this is nothing new. However, that doesn’t mean it’s not important

People jostle for the best tickets when they go on sale and Italians travel from around the country to attend.

Yet it feels like we’re the only international tourists in town.

We’ve arrived a few weeks early to enjoy the joust’s lead-up events, but quickly discover that while we may have uncovered the ultimate non-tourist activity in Italy, this also means there isn’t much information about the joust available in English

TIPS

priest during the week.

We also have Fabrizio to thank for our perfect aperitivo spot and the tip-off to watch the knights practise.

As the week goes on, we experience the preparations as grandstands are erected, a dirt track stretching from one end of the square to the other is laid and groomed, and knights from each district who have been training all year make the most of their afternoon on the course.

On the day, they’ll be aiming for the Buratto, a wooden figure that symbolises the Saracens and spins around when it’s hit, thanks to a powerful spring. In one hand, the Buratto holds a shield divided into 10 blocks with various numbers of points and scores The other hand wields a cato-three-tails whip, each strand tipped with a rubber ball dipped in black powder. If these hit the rider, they will lose points. Each district is passionate about winning the Lancia d’Oro (Lance of Gold).

Even after watching YouTube clips, we didn’t realise the scale of the event, which involves almost 1000 residents, from the hundreds who dress up in ornate costumes passed down through generations for the grand parade to the Musicians of the Saracen Joust who practise their traditional songs in the square at night after they finish work or school.

Stay in Arezzo the week before the tournament to watch events leading up to the joust Grandstand tickets go on sale at the museum the week before and are priced from NZ$9 for the rehearsal and $55 for the Giostra del Saracino. It’s worth going to both. Arezzo is filled with impressive museums and historic attractions, including world-famous frescoes at the Basilica of San Francis. The Musei Arezzo Pass is a bargain at NZ$36.

To fill in the gaps, we book a walking tour with local guide Fabrizio Formica, and includes a stop at the jousting museum to learn more about the event and how we can participate in the festivities.

It turns out his grandfather won the joust in 1938 and Fabrizio points out the ornate helmets and explains that before the knights had costumes, these were used to differentiate the competing teams.

As we walk around town, it feels like we’ve stumbled into a quidditch scene in a Harry Potter movie The town is divided into four houses with flags flying from the buildings in each district’s team colours, and most of the residents wear supporter’s shirts, ribbons or scarves. We joke with Fabrizio about entering “enemy territory” as we walk from our team’s district to another

Our Airbnb is in the heart of the Porta Crucifera district, the one as Fabrizio’s family belong to, and we follow his suggestion to buy badges in our team’s colours to wear in the week leading up to the event. They’re a great conversation starter, even with our limited Italian, and we make friends with everyone from a checkout operator to the local

The sound of the brass band drifts up to our Airbnb as we go to sleep listening to the amateur players’ signature tune slowly change from a discordant warble to the rousing anthem that will lead the jousters into the main square.

On the big day, a cannon salute announcing the joust booms from the Medici Fortress just up the road from our Airbnb at 7am, shaking the walls and practically launching us out of bed.

We head out after breakfast to get a prime position to watch the parade where rich velvet robes trimmed with gold braid glow in the sun, knights sit proudly on their horses, and the musicians play as they march, with residents wearing elaborate costumes filling the streets behind them.

It’s a festive atmosphere, but the riders and their teams all have their “race face” on. This isn’t an event that’s simply held for fun or to entertain the masses it’s a matter of honour and everyone is there to win.

We’re as excited as the residents, dressed in our race finery and waiting impatiently for the joust to begin. We’ve managed to get tickets in one of the grandstands and arrive early to take in the atmosphere (and the cigarette smoke there’s a lot of anxious puffing as the tension mounts).

When the cannon booms again to announce the

start of the joust, the sound ricochets around the ancient stone walls in the square, the crowd roars and band members blowing long, shiny heralds’ trumpets march into the square. They’re followed by the joust’s musicians and flag throwers who toss their brightly coloured flags stamped with the crests of Arezzo’s noble families into the air, tumbling and dancing across the cobblestones before they catch them without missing a beat.

After a bit more pomp and ceremony, the tournament begins and we’re transformed into aspiring jousting experts thanks to the Italians sitting beside us who speak enough English to help us make sense of the complicated scoring system. We cheer as loud as the residents when the horse and rider from Porta Crucifera thunder down the track.

There is heartbreak for one knight who isn’t happy with his performance and tries in vain to hide his frustrated tears, but not for us. After the last run of the day, the crowd jumps to its feet cheering and we add up the scores our team has won.

Little did we know, there was one final Giostra del Saracino experience in store for us learning the words to the Porta Crucifera victory song.

As the raucous and enthusiastic celebrations continued long into the night, we discovered our team’s headquarters were almost right next to our Airbnb.

AREZZO, ITALY

GETTING THERE

Flights to Rome are available from New Zealand, with the drive or train trip from Rome to Arezzo taking less than three hours. If you’re already in Italy, Arezzo is an hour from Florence by train.

GETTING AROUND

Arezzo is a walkable city, so there is no need for a hire car, although this can be handy for touring the surrounding area, which is filled with castles, historic villages, vineyards and cellar doors.

DETAILS discoverarezzo.com / visittuscany.com

UK: England and Scotland »

Tamara Hinson explores London and Edinburgh and finds out how the Caledonian Sleeper train service makes it easier than ever to combine the two cities into one trip

Don’t get me wrong On a cold winter’s day, nothing beats pounding the streets of London’s city centre, whether it’s along Oxford St or Covent Garden, with its buskers and bars

But England’s colder months are also great opportunities for subterranean explorations, and one of the newest options is the London Transport Museum’s tours of Euston Station’s disused underground tunnels, abandoned as the world’s first underground network expanded, but perfectly preserved

The London underground dates back to 1863, and these tunnels were once part of the Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Railway, built in 1891 The tours are organised by the London Transport Museum, and as we’re led into the tunnel depths via a door in Euston underground station which I’ve passed countless times, our guide points out scarlet tiles (a shade known as oxblood, beloved by Leslie Green, who designed dozens of underground stations in the 1900s), old ticket booths and faded movie posters, including one for Alfred Hitchcock’s Psycho, released in 1960

Not that there aren’t plenty of reasons to head above ground, too Covent Garden might be a tourist magnet but it’s also got some of London’s best independent restaurants, which is why I’d suggest bypassing the buskers and making a beeline for Plume The blue plaque near this wine bar’s entrance hints at its rich history in the 1800s it was Charles Dickens’ office

It’s both cosy and quirky my armchair-like seat has a cushion bearing a Renaissance-style portrait of George Clooney and the menu’s packed with comfort food I opt for the delicious NYC hot dog, served with gherkins and crispy onions, washed down with a Dickens Punch, made with spiced rum and orange (though his tipple of choice was a pint of champagne)

Another great spot is the nearby Ham Yard Bar and Restaurant, famous for its Long Lunch picture a Sunday lunch but bigger, better and boozier You’ll get three courses (for the main, I recommend the beef rump, Yorkshire pudding and horseradish) and a glass of champagne for $115

Combining London with Edinburgh became even easier in 2019 when the new fleet of Caledonian Sleeper trains rolled out In my twin bunk room, a mattress made by Glencraft (the brand beloved by the British royals, no less), a complimentary eye mask and a cloud-like duvet mean I’m heading for the land of nod moments after my train slides out of Euston Station at 11 45pm The downside? The painful arrival time I arrive in Edinburgh at 7 30am Thankfully, I’ve chosen my accommodation wisely Not only is the historic Scotsman Hotel metres from the station, but after I stagger into the lobby, blinking and bleary-eyed, the sympathetic staff offer me an early check-in The hotel is perfectly located, perched on the North Bridge between the old and new towns It’s also close to the city’s newest attraction, Edinburgh Gin’s distillery and visitor centre, which opened in December last year

There aren’t many occasions when I find myself sipping gin pre-midday, although the plentiful samples are just one of many reasons to join the daily tours The other is the insight into Edinburgh’s connections with gin I discover that Edinburgh doctor George Cleghorn wrote numerous papers about quinine more specifically its ability to protect against malaria in the 18th century Royal Navy sailors were subsequently given quinine (used in tonic water) as part of their rations, and they mixed it with gin to reduce the quinine’s bitterness Later, another Edinburgh doctor, James Lind,

NIGHT MOVES

discovered that citrus particularly limes helped sailors recover from scurvy Lime joined gin and quinine on the sailors’ list of rations, and the modern-day gin and tonic was born Sort of

DETAILS

The Caledonian Sleeper train departs London s Euston Station The Lowland Sleeper takes roughly 7 5 hours to reach Glasgow and Edinburgh It departs at 11 45pm (11 30pm on Sundays) and arrives around 7 20am sleeper.scot visitbritain.com/en

There are more tributes to Edinburgh at the Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa, famous for its new Storytellers of Edinburgh Afternoon Tea, served at the Hotel’s One Square Bar and Brasserie, and created as a homage to the finest local suppliers I justify the calories by telling myself I’m lining my stomach in preparation for my visit to another Edinburgh attraction, Princes St’s Johnnie Walker Scotch Whisky Experience Edinburgh and its Journey of Flavour, a 90-minute tour which provides an insight into the whisky brand founded in 1820 while busting various whiskyrelated myths

(a pre-tour taste test and hidden microchipped glasses are key to this particularly whisky wizardry)

I’ll avoid any spoilers, but it’s incredibly hitech there are theatrical performances, stunning light projections and plenty of interactive experiences, including the chance to pour your own bespoke cocktail from a machine that dispenses your perfect whisky-based drink

Afterwards, I realise I’ve got just enough time for one more foray underground this time Mercat Tours’ guided explorations of the Edinburgh Vaults, a network of subterranean chambers dating back to the 1700s, which were used as taverns, beer cellars and illegal gambling dens before local authorities evicted the (mostly illegal) tenants in the late 1800s They were only rediscovered in the 1980s, and on tours of this dark, damp labyrinth, my guide shows me various artefacts found here, including animal bones and leather shoes made by 18th century cobblers

It’s almost time to hop on the Caledonian Sleeper for the overnight journey back to London, so I opt for a nightcap at one of the many bars putting Edinburgh’s cocktail scene firmly on the map The W Edinburgh hotel’s Joao’s Place is a speakeasy-style bar in the swanky St James

•

•

• Hike around Mt Vesuvius

• Sip local limoncello in Sorrento

• Sampleworld-classwinesinPiedmonte

• 7 breakfasts, 2 lunches, 4 dinners

• SpendtwonightsonaTuscanvineyard

• Visit the home of a Roman nobleman

• Sip world-class wine in San Gimignano

The

Scottish, but you’ll find numerous ingredients that make the cocktails ideal winter warmers for chilly nights in Scotland’s capital, whether it’s the Welcome to Liberdade, a whisky-based concoction with a honeycomb hit, or the Tropicalismo, with citrus gin, passionfruit and lime

I board the Caledonian Sleeper minutes before it departs and, perhaps unsurprisingly, fall into a deep slumber the moment my head hits the pillow And, I suspect, considering my weekend’s gin consumption, with lifetime immunity from scurvy and malaria That’s what I call a win

Europe: The Netherlands »

In the year Amsterdam turns 750, Tamara Hinson explores the places responsible for shaping the Netherlands’ tulip and cheese-scented capital

One of the reasons I love Amsterdam? It’s a place where reminders of its past are never far away, whether it’s in places such as Amsterdam Noord, a neighbourhood with a former dockyard at its heart and a shape-shifting skyline of lovingly refurbished warehouses, factories and shipping containers now stuffed with everything from Michelin-starred restaurants to museums, or its canal-streaked centre

Yes, space is in short supply in the latter, but that’s part of the charm of Amsterdam’s historic centre And if a single canal house doesn’t quite cut it? Consider 12, instead, and then work your way up to 25 That’s exactly what happened with the Pulitzer Hotel, a luxurious retreat founded by the late Peter Pulitzer (grandson of Pulitzer Prize founder Joseph Pulitzer) in the 1970s He bought 12 dilapidated canal houses wedged between the Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht canals and turned them into a luxurious hotel, then continued to snap up neighbouring houses, as and when they became available Today, this labyrinthine hotel occupies 25 historic former homes In the hotel’s centre, a glass-walled corridor connects them, weaving through the original townhouses’ gardens, now expanded and transformed into a single, leafy urban idyll Homages to both Amsterdam and the hotel’s previous residents are everywhere Beautiful Delft tiles cover the reception desk and in the lobby, there’s a book-filled nook stuffed with tomes written by Pulitzer Prize winners And then there are the bedrooms I bag a suite in a townhouse once owned by local merchant Volkert Jansz and built in the 1600s (every room has an information panel relaying information about former residents) Jansz, it turned out, owned several of the houses that Peter eventually purchased I find nods to the former brass craftsman throughout the hotel, including in Jansz, the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, where I find art-like displays of gleaming metal pans

I can easily understand why the city’s most prosperous traders wanted to base themselves here, close to the canals and to revered places of worship, such as the Westerkerk church, built in the 1600s and referenced by Anne Frank, who wrote about hearing its bells from her Amsterdam hiding place

Going

Dutch

Amsterdam celebrates its 750th anniversary this year; below, one of Amsterdam’s beautiful streets with Westerkerk church in the background Photos / Getty Images

Checklist

AMSTERDAM

The hotel is also just a short walk from the legendary Rijksmuseum, where I’m blown away by the diversity of its collection my favourite exhibits include a stunning, acid-yellow dinner set produced by the Netherlands’ Leerdam glass factory in 1924 (the brand was one of the first to use certain glass-pressing techniques), Van Gogh’s gorgeous but lesser-known Wheatfield painting, depicting rolling fields in the same sunflower-yellow hue as his most famous masterpiece, and the Man and Machine statue, created by Marinus Johannes Hack in 1913, and once placed outside the Amsterdam office of a company that sold machinery to Indonesia The stone figure, intended to represent a young Javan man, sits cross-legged with an engine in his lap, and was designed to symbolise the trade connections between the two countries

The museum doesn’t shy away from the darker periods that shaped it, and one of the more sombre items is a wooden chessboard topped with impossibly intricate earthenware chess pieces When I look closer, I realise that the chess figures are tanks, grenades and crouching soldiers, and the information panel reveals it was made by Georg Fuhg, a German artist and soldier who was stationed in the Netherlands, and who wanted to glorify Germany’s urge to conquer

GETTING THERE

Fly from Auckland to Amsterdam with one stopover with Qatar Airways Singapore Airlines China Southern and China Eastern

DETAILS holland com

Amsterdam is certainly a city shaped by the horrors of World War II, and while the Anne Frank House where the young writer hid before capture, and where you can gaze behind the bookcase that concealed the entrance to her hiding place should be on all visitors’ radars, there have never been more ways to gain a fantastic insight into the people and events that left their imprint on the city

One is a canal boat tour with Rederij Lampedusa, on one of two vessels pulled from the Mediterranean a few years ago after being used to carry migrants to Europe Rederij Lampedusa’s guides include migrants from Syria, Somalia, Eritrea and Egypt, and they offer wonderful, alternative insights into the city they now call home, as well as the events that led them here

Foodies, meanwhile, should consider a tour with Eating Amsterdam Mine focuses on Jordaan, a historic neighbourhood famous for its traditional canal-side bruin (brown) cafes and pubs cosy hangouts so-called because of the sparse wooden panelling you’ll often find inside, and more often than not filled with friendly locals belting out the city’s unofficial anthem, Geef mij maar Amsterdam (Amsterdam is the Place for Me)

During my tour I feast on stacks of poffertjes (tiny pancakes drenched in advocaat, a Dutch liquor) and sample Surinamese delicacies at the Swieti Sranang deli while learning why Amsterdam does Surinamese and Indonesian cuisine so well Hundreds of thousands of Indonesian workers once worked in Surinam, a former Dutch colony, and when the Dutch returned they brought with them a passion for both cuisines One of my favourite stops is the JWO Lekkernijen deli, a cheese-scented paradise where owners Jan-Willem and Ongkie (one of the first gay couples to marry in the Netherlands) flit between enormous wheels of Edam and slabs of pate produced by farmers

During the tour I also learn about spots I’d otherwise miss, including its hofjes tiny, greenery-filled courtyards also known as widows’ courtyards and scattered across the city, tucked behind its busiest streets Many date back to the the 16th century, and most were built by wealthy tradesmen who’d amassed huge fortunes and wanted to do their bit for society by building affordable housing, with tree-filled courtyards at their heart, for widows, unmarried women and their children Visit Karthuizerhof, a hofje that hides behind Karthuizersstraat and is one of the prettiest, and you’ll see a plaque listing the donors responsible for its construction in the 1600s

New metro connections have made onceoverlooked Amsterdam Noord more accessible, although this hip, historic neighbourhood was always hiding in plain sight Head to the rear of the city’s Centraal Station and you can hop on small passenger ferries squeezing alongside bicycles and tiny two-person Canta cars beloved by the Dutch which whisk passengers across the River Amstel to Amsterdam Noord in 12 minutes (the free ferries run every 15 minutes) Amsterdam Noord’s piece de resistance is the NDSM Wharf, a former dockyard which is a million miles from the lopsided canal houses in Amsterdam’s centre but no less historic A brilliant example of the city’s passion for repurposing is Faralda, a three-suite hotel at the top of a 50-metre crane once used to heave shipping containers on to boats One of NDSM Wharf’s biggest draws is the twice-monthly IJ Hallen flea market (one of the largest in the world) which fills two enormous warehouses (when I visit, items on display including everything from a fibreglass UFO to priceless antiques), although the former industrial area is also where you’ll find some of the city’s best street art Many of these murals adorn the exterior of STRAAT, a gallery inside a former warehouse, and one of the most striking pieces is of a smiling Anne Frank, painted by Brazilian street artist Eduardo Kobra

Spectacularly trippy so much so that signs at the entrance warn visitors not to enter when under the influence of mind-altering substances is nearby Nxt, an Amsterdam Noord art museum with a supersized helping of tech and huge installations that combine art, technology, light and sound I won’t spoil the surprise but it’s immersive, engaging and often confronting the installations, which are regularly switched up, don’t shy away from tackling hot topics, ranging from the war in Ukraine and climate change to the growing use of surveillance, and rely on technology to show how such issues have a direct impact on our own lives

I decide to end my visit to Amsterdam with a visit to an NDSM Wharf restaurant and bar called Pllek which, I’m assured, is one of the city’s coolest I’m somewhat confused to find myself standing outside a rusting shipping container But it turns out it’s merely the entrance I emerge from the other end into a sun-drenched, cathedral-like space made from dozens of rainbow-hued repurposed shipping containers, stacked on top of each other to create multiple levels of terraces surrounding a central area with beer hall-style tables and firepits, and an urban beach beyond floor-to-ceiling glass doors Cheers, Amsterdam here’s to another 750 years

Piraeus

Nieuw

Europe: Norway »

Far from the well-trodden tourist paths, Skirvedalen offers a snow-covered escape, writes Kellie Floyd

If Narnia were a real place, it would surely be here Snow blankets everything, dense fog rises from the grounds and swirling flurries create a magical glow in the sky

I half expect Mr Tumnus, with his red scarf trailing behind him, to step out from behind one of the fir trees and shyly invite my family for tea and tales of distant realms

Skirvedalen, a nature preserve, 2 5 hours’ drive west of Norway’s capital, Oslo, is far from the country’s main tourist hotspots It’s a region dotted with private cabins, used for hunting in summer and cross-country skiing in winter But arriving a month after the winter season ends, there’s no smoke curling from the cabin chimneys In fact, we see no other soul for our week-long stay

My suspicion this area is hidden from the world is confirmed over the course of our month in Norway Every Norwegian we meet asks, “Where is this?” when I mention it

Nearby destinations like Vemork in Rjukan, site of the famous heavy-water sabotage during World War II, sometimes ring a bell Others know Gaustatoppen, often referred to as Norway’s most beautiful mountain But Skirvedalen seems to be tucked away in quiet seclusion and offers my family the unexpected magic of disconnecting and slowing down

NORWEGIAN WOOD NORWEGIAN

We drive along a tiny mountain road, flanked by towering evergreens dusted in white and it feels like we’re driving through a portal into another world or perhaps into a realm beyond

the wardrobe The landmarks mentioned in the cabin owner’s directions are hidden beneath a thick layer of snow so it takes all four of us to spot the faintly visible turnoff that leads to our home in the snow

We don’t find Mr Tumnus, but we do eventually find our cabin in the woods Its painted dark a beautiful contrast to the white all around Its pitched roof is heavy with snow, as is the large wooden deck that wraps around its exterior and houses an outdoor spa Inside, a fireplace keeps us warm and cosy, while large windows and French doors fill the space with light and frame sweeping views of the snowy landscape outside

Soon, we’re all in the spa, sitting mostly in silence Not because we agreed to, but because it feels as though nature itself is asking us to be still This stillness is uncommon in our family travels, but here, it feels right necessary, even

I find myself listening for the sound of snow At first, there’s almost nothing but then it emerges: the patter of snowflakes landing on the branches above, the muffled thud of clumps slipping off and landing on the ground The wind carries a sound, too it brushes the trees and stirs the snowflakes

Together, the snow, the wind, and the birds create a symphony so subtle it feels like a secret, or perhaps a whisper of Narnia’s magic

This silence is occasionally broken by our kids’ screams as they jump in and out of the spa and into the deep snow, their own version of a cold plunge Moose and reindeer are our elusive neighbours The only evidence of their presence is fresh tracks through the snow each morning On walks we search half-heartedly more out

Checklist

SKIRVEDALEN, NORWAY

GETTING THERE

Fly from Auckland to Oslo with Qatar Airways and Emirates with one stopover Skirvedalen is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Oslo Norway’s capital

DETAILS

visitnorway com

of curiosity than determination The joy lies in simply being present The kids giggle as they test the strength of iced-over ponds with rocks, a satisfying thunk breaking the quiet There’s beauty in this unhurried rhythm and this accidental solitude feels wonderfully indulgent

Our days are mostly spent outside We build snowmen and snow forts, with the kids choosing to eat a salad sandwich lunch in their snowy playground Bundled in colourful winter jackets, they sit cosily in the fort they previously defended during fierce snowball battles with their dad and me, their cheeks flushed from the cold

With no restaurants nearby, no museums to visit, and no landmarks to tick off a list, our days and nights are unrushed The kids spend hours sledding directly from the back deck the snow piled so high it forms a seamless slope straight to a tall pine tree with a tyre swing They purposely tumble off just in time to scramble on to the swing before starting the hard trek back up the hill, pulling their sled behind them I feel compelled to visit the outdoor spa several times a day

It’s a magical place to sit and watch the snow fall My husband enjoys borrowing the cabin owner’s snowshoes for a bit of quiet exploration through the snowy terrain Evenings are spent in front of the open fire, sprawled across couches draped with blankets, animal furs and cushions Here, a game of chess can take as long as we want

This is a week without crowds, itineraries, or distractions Without us knowing at the time, it’s also a week that allows us to abandon the ordinary rules of travel and embrace the extraordinary just as Narnia does in the pages of C S Lewis’ world

Doubtful Sound guarantees an unforgettable Fiordland experience

Take the path less travelled on a spectacular cruise with RealNZ through Aotearoa’s deepest fiord: vast, wild, beautiful and unforgettable.

Explore the other-worldly beauty of Doubtful Sound s magical wilderness on a day cruise with RealNZ and you ll experience the Sound of Silence ritual The boat s engine is shut off nobody speaks, all phones and cameras are put aside and everyone stands still, soaking up the glory of being surrounded by nature and being in the moment

Except silent it isn t In this remote and untouched southwest corner of the South Island, the noise of nature is everywhere Silent humans hear the sounds of nearby bird song and the soothing splosh and splash of waves and waterfalls And as their journey continues through the 40km fiord they hear the splashes of resident dolphin pods or maybe it was the splash of fur seals diving in to the water from the rocks Then there are squawks from little black and white smudges which are in fact rare tawaki penguins

It’s just some of the many joys of this day trip into one of our least-visited but most rewarding parts of Fiordland

It’s a special day out travelling with RealNZ which recently won the Air New Zealand Supreme Tourism Award and accolades for tourism excellence and environmental efforts at the 2024 New Zealand Tourism Awards

The Doubtful Sound Wilderness Cruise begins at Lake Manapouri which is just a half-hour drive from Te Anau in the opposite direction from cars and coaches heading to Milford Sound It takes 45 minutes to sail across this wild and lovely lake to West Arm and the start of the country s most expensive road, built at enormous effort

Its high point in both senses is Wilmot Pass where the view is so breathtakingly spectacular that not even the chatty coach driver takes it for granted Steep peaks clad in lush rainforest drop down to narrow, winding Deep

Cove, the glittering reward awaiting at the end of the mountain pass and the start of Doubtful Sound Nature rules here big and bold and it feels a real privilege to be dwarfed by it

Then things get even better The Pātea Explorer is an elegant custom-built catamaran with two viewing levels inside and out Its friendly crew are not only professional knowledgeable and experienced but eager to share their delight in this beautiful and very special place where it is rare to encounter another boat

Over the next three hours the cruise delivers an introduction to Doubtful Sound s three main arms Weather permitting, the boat sails all the way out into the Tasman Sea, to ride the swell for a view back at a rugged stretch of wave-swept coastline that few get to see Along the way there is interesting history geology and geography to hear and fascinating information about the local wildlife

Besides wildlife mentioned earlier albatrosses petrels and shearwaters can be seen here too feeding in the deep and fish-rich waters while the birdsong echoing out of the bush is evidence of a healthy onshore population

This is best appreciated during the Silence Doubtful Sound was named by Captain Cook who suspected that if he sailed the Endeavour in he wouldn t be able to get out again; but its original Māori name of Pātea means unencumbered and free from burdens Gliding up into Hall Arm the engine is cut and nature rules Everyone stands quietly soaking up this very special experience Nearby Browne Falls cascade 619 metres down a rocky cliff face, birds sing invisibly in the bush, waves lap against the hull Peace and serenity infuse everything and everybody

And then the engine fires up again people start to chatter, and everyday life returns but all on board feel

enriched because experiencing real wilderness and beauty in today s busy-ness is hard to come by

Getting to Manapouri: Drive 2 hours 45 minutes from Queenstown or 30 minutes from Te Anau Drive yourself or catch a RealNZ coach

Eating: Pre-order a picnic lunch full of locally sourced artisanal treats or enjoy delicious cabinet food and a range of beverages onboard

The Experience: Approximately seven hours long beginning at Manapouri at 10 30am The Day Cruise costs from $349 per adult, and $175 for children aged 5-15

Must not miss along the way: Lake Manapouri Dam the coach trip over Wilmot Pass wildlife no crowds being one-on-one with nature, the weather with its mist, stillness and snow the Sound of Silence and your nature guide

More information: Go to realnz com

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Visitors to this year’s show will have the chance to win a brand new Jayco 19.61-2 Starcraft Bushpack Caravan valued at $84,490

Enter at nzherald.co.nz/win. Entries close 5pm, Monday March 3. Winners will be notified by email, terms and conditions apply.

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Europe: Andorra »

Andorra has enough charm adventure and culture for an unforgettable stay; below a mountainous road in Andorra; the village of Ordino Photos / 123RF Getty Images

A little secret

Andorra is a true hidden gem in a world where that term is vastly overused, writes Sydney Baker

France and Spain were named the top two destinations for travellers according to an end-of-2024 report That’s understandable as the allure of hiking or skiing the French Alps or soaking up Barcelona’s lively atmosphere is certainly enticing However, I’m here to let you in on a little secret: Andorra, the tiny country in between the two tourism heavyhitters, is the place to go for an authentic, crowdfree holiday in Europe

After living in and traversing much of France over the past few years, I sought something different So last October, I hopped on the direct high-speed train from Paris to Barcelona to meet a friend who also favours lesser-visited corners of the world We hired a rental car and headed to a new country

Nestled between Spanish Catalonia and the southwest of France, Andorra is just a day trip for most people That was our initial plan, with an eye on prioritising the Costa Brava, three hours to Andorra’s east

However, after a few short hours, we both fell head over heels for the principality and scrapped our coastal plans in favour of this wonderful destination

Towns and best places to base yourself

The capital, Andorra La Vella, did not impress on first glance, but we grew fond of our base over the course of our three-day trip I’d recommend it to most travellers for a few reasons

First, if you’re arriving via bus (trains will still drop you on the wrong side of the border and necessitate a local bus into Andorra) from Toulouse or Barcelona, it’ll probably drop you in La Vella Additionally, the country is only 468sq km, so you can easily visit every corner from the central location

Finally, the town provides the most accommodation and food options, which are even more limited during the shoulder and offseasons

Arriving in Andorra La Vella after scenic drives and hikes in the Pyrenees can, initially, be a bit of a letdown As you descend into the valley (hence the name, La Vella) it looks like a big, modern sprawl But, once you get into the main drag along the river and explore the Old Town, the charm becomes more apparent Old cobblestone streets parallel modern highways and colourful building blocks are set against the surrounding mountain peaks The weekend of our visit, a small artisan festival had set up numerous stalls along the river where passers-

Checklist ANDORRA

GETTING THERE

Fly from Auckland to either Barcelona or Toulouse and rent a car

Andorra is roughly 2 5 hours from Barcelona and 2 hours 40 minutes from Toulouse If arriving from mainland Europe take the train to either city

DETAILS visitandorra.com/en

by could sample and purchase Andorran treats and souvenirs

Another decent option is Ordino (my pick for Andorra’s cutest town), especially in winter as it’s near one of the main ski stations, although, it’s much smaller with fewer restaurants and other services

Hikes and activities

Before making the spontaneous decision to spend our entire trip in Andorra and forgoing the coast, we beelined to Engolasters Lake

I’d read online that the lake loop made for an easy trek near the capital and figured it wouldn’t be too busy during late October

The lake was cute, but the hues of orange and yellow dotting the mountainside made us gasp

To our delight, we had stumbled upon the ultimate “autumn in Europe” destination

At the park’s chalet restaurant, we had our first introduction to what would become a

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From p34

standard interaction in Andorra I went to the toilet while my friend ordered coffee in Spanish When I came out, the barista asked me a followup question I couldn’t quite respond to so I asked “Parlez-vous Francais?” to which he replied “Oui ”

Catalan is the country’s official language, but most people speak Spanish and at least some French Many cross-border workers also come in from France and Spain and like much of the world, English is increasingly common

Eager to see more, we chose a beautiful drive through Ordino, El Serrat, and the Ordino ski station Normally, you can take a gondola ride up from the lower parking lot but due to technical difficulties, it wasn’t running the day of our visit

Luckily, the road was open all the way to the ski summit We were much too early in the season to hit the slopes, but the upper lot is the starting point for two of Andorra’s main hikes The newly opened (as of 2021) Mirador Solar de Tristaina is a giant sundial on the border between Andorra and France You can either hike 5km with 450m of elevation gain or take a second chairlift up and enjoy a short 20-minute walk if trekking isn’t your thing In winter, guides will take you on snowshoes or skis (the latter requires experience)

The weather wasn’t the best for the sundial, so we opted for the Estanys de Tristaina, three alpine lakes you can hike to from the same parking lot It’s a 4 4km loop with 200m elevation

On our second day, we continued to the Zona de Picnic Coma de Ransol area and hiked up to the Refugi de Cabana Coms de Jan hut, where valley views stretched forever Another mustvisit is the Madriu-Perafita-Claror Valley Unesco valley There are numerous trail options

As we drove and hiked throughout the country, the one constant was the herds of horses They graze in contained pastures as well as on the side of the road and even right at the start of hikes At one point, we took on the role of traffic controllers when a foal ventured into the road near a parking lot entrance This is due to Andorra’s horse-shepherd culture We even witnessed a modern-day wrangling session when a horse got loose and a rancher had to block the road with a Range Rover: truly a sight to witness

Food and drink

Food in Andorra is hit-or-miss We never had a bad meal, but don’t expect anything mindblowing The prices are usually much higher, sometimes double of those in France and Spain

Our first dinner was at a highly recommended fondue spot The truffle fondue we split was decent but quite expensive, ¤80 ($147) for a tiny amount (at least compared to what you usually get in France and Switzerland)

If there’s one restaurant I insist travellers visit it’s UDON Andorra, an amazing Asian noodle place (difficult to find in Europe outside major cities) Again, the price might shock you, but the money is well spent, especially if, like me and my friend, you were desperately craving spicy noodles

For our daily caffeine fix, Andorra did not disappoint The Catalan-founded Santagloria Coffee Bakery chain is a solid option However, if you’re a coffee snob like my Seattle-raised self, the place to go in La Vella is Kofi It’s the only speciality coffee shop in the country and they even roast their beans, which can be purchased on site

Andorra is also an up-and-coming wine destination but you’ll need to reserve tastings in advance Four of the country’s wineries, Borda Sabate1944, Casa Auvinya, Casa Beal, and Celler Mas Berenguer are all on Ctra de la Rabassa Rd Casus Belli is the one exception, located in

Engolasters Lake the ultimate “autumn in Europe” destination; above La Vella welcomes you to Andorra Photos / 123RF

base)

Wellness

Like many mountainous areas, Andorra shines as a wellness destination Not only is there fresh mountain air everywhere, but the spa scene is fantastic And this is where it’s worth not staying in La Vella, as the best spa and wellness centres are outside the capital Check out the Sport Wellness Spa in Canillo and Grau Roig Andorra Boutique Hotel and Spa

If you’re looking for a different way to relax, Andorra is the ideal place to indulge in retail therapy Like so many microstates, the country has had to creatively grow its economy Enter tax-free shopping The main savings can be found in luxury clothing, makeup and skincare Many people day-trip to La Vella solely to shop and save in a picturesque setting

When to visit

Most visitors head to Andorra in either summer for hiking the Pyrenees, or in winter, to ski However, my autumn visit was a wonderful surprise, full of changing colours and crisp days Snow in the mountains typically occurs in late October/November I would aim for earlier in October to avoid the fog and ice Spring is also a great shoulder season to visit, but remember the snow can still be present in June

SKETCHES OF SPAIN

Seville is one of the country’s most seductive cities, writes Demi Perera

“Sometimes, I can’t believe that I can do this,” says Fernando Aguado as we finish watching a YouTube video on a freestanding screen

We are in his crammed, three-room studio in Seville I’m seated on the edge of a sofa covered in a white canvas throw Aguado stands opposite me across a small glass table, staring at the screen, remote in hand If not for his humble demeanour, I might have confused his words for arrogance Dressed in a blue check shirt and black trousers, his dark hair parted sideways, he speaks in a hushed tone

The 13-minute video showed Aguado, Seville’s most respected artist and image-maker, chiselling and painting an enormous stump of cedar wood into Christ, moments after death No detail was spared: Christ’s head weighed back, his bleeding body limp with agony, knees bruised, nails chipped and face, conversely, blissfully at peace with his fate The sculpture now sits at an altar in Cordoba Sevillian by birth, Aguado carved his first statue in 2003 and set up the studio in 2014 where he continues to be inspired by Seville, which he considers to be the epicentre of Spanish religious art

In a sensory city such as Seville, where the tap of Flamenco can be heard at every corner, the wind carries the scent of orange trees and tapas and wine keeps you out late into the night, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed as you walk around Aguado recommends adding these 10 places to your itinerary to feel the magic of Seville

Seville Cathedral

The Real Alcazar

The Real Alcazar, a royal palace, has been utilised by successive rulers and their families since the late 11th century While its famous courtyards and tiled plinths have sparked many a debate, The Real Alcazar is perhaps best known for holding the Archives of the Indies

During the 15th and 16th centuries the building was chosen as the central location for holding documents relating to Spain’s overseas possessions; an invaluable archive of 800 million pages recording the daily workings of the Spanish empire which includes the journal of Christopher Columbus

Santa Cruz Quarter

Santa Cruz is a maze of narrow streets, plazas and squares, dating back to 1248, where the second largest Jewish population in the Iberian Peninsula once lived The labyrinth of cobbled lanes and tightly packed, white-washed homes were designed to provide shelter during hot Sevillian summers The Jewish community was forced out of Spain during the 14th century but Santa Cruz has remained one of the most beautiful places in Seville

Seville’s city centre is the legacy of its most powerful rulers: Roman, Arabic, Andalusian, Renaissance, Baroque, Latin American and Marian Seville Cathedral, with its courtyard of orange trees, La Giralda minaret and La Giralda weathervane at the top, is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and home to works of Spanish painters Esteban Murillo, Francisco de Goya and Alonso Cano among others

Aguado highlights that the cathedral, the Alcazar and Santa Cruz together form an important cross-section of Sevillian history where Jewish, Arab and Christian culture intersected

Iglesia del Salvador (Church of the Divine Saviour)

“This church holds an outstanding collection of art and Sevillian altarpieces,” says Aguado

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Plaza de Espana s sweeping tiled pavilions reflect each of Spain’s provinces; below, Seville Cathedral, the largest Gothic cathedral in the world; Paseo de Colon was the departure point for Christopher Columbus on his way to the Americas Photos / 123rf; Unsplash

Built on the site of a mosque, between 1674 and 1712, there can be no finer example of Seville’s Baroque religious art than Iglesias del Salvador on Plaza del Salvador The pink brick exterior hides an interior of intricately sculpted golden altarpieces glistening under the flood of light falling from the soaring dome of the roof

Basilica de la Macarena and Basilica del Gran Poder

“Seville cannot be understood without visiting the Basilica of La Macarena and the Basilica of Jesus del Gran Poder They’re more than religious icons They are part of daily life and important non-religious pillars of the city,” says Aguado

La Macarena houses one of the city’s most beloved figures, the Virgin of Esperanza Macarena El Gran Poder is home to the Lord of Seville, a figure that transcends religious faith and forms part of the city’s soul

Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Art)

“This is one of the most important galleries for Seville because it shows the significance of the city’s prominent painter, Murillo, and Spanish painter Zurbaran,” Aguado says The former convent building holds a collection spanning from the 15th to the 20th centuries At the head of the church hangs La Inmaculada Concepcion by Murillo

Paseo de Colon

“The riverbank along Paseo de Colon is important to experience because it shows Seville’s role as a port for the Indies,” says Aguado

The Spanish crown bestowed the nickname Port of the Indies on Seville when Christopher Columbus first set off to the Americas from here Between the 15th and 16th centuries, Seville became the gateway to the Indies, monopolising trade with the Americas

Paseo de Colon, an avenue along the Guadalquivir river, is dotted with connections to this maritime past The Torre del Oro (Tower

of Gold) is the unmissable 36m tower that controlled the shipping route; preventing enemy ships from entering but permitting ships arriving from the Latin American colonies to unload their cargo of gold at the tower

Checklist

SEVILLE, SPAIN

GETTING THERE

Fly from Auckland to Seville Airport with two stopovers with Emirates Qatar Airways and Singapore Airlines on a Star Alliance Codeshare basis

DETAILS spain info/en

Maria Luisa Park and Plaza de Espana

Aguado considers Maria Luisa Park a testament to the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 a world fair held in Seville between 1929 and 1930 The southern end of the city was beautified with parks, gardens and boulevards in preparation for the exhibition with Maria Luisa Park at the centre

“Maria Luisa Park and the famous Plaza de Espana represent Sevillian regionalist architecture at its best The gardens and fountains are perfect for relaxing after a day of exploration,” he adds The park stretches along the Guadalquivir Horse-drawn carriages carry visitors on nostalgic trips around waving palm trees, glistening ponds and tall pines Plaza de Espana is a curved 800m of tiled pavilions, ponds and fountains with four bridges over a moat Thousands of visitors walk the curved path and paddle boats around it

Plaza de la Campana and Calle Sierpes

“To feel the buzz of Seville, go to Plaza de la Campana and Calle Sierpes where locals and tourists mingle between shops, cafes, and bars,” Aguado says

These historic streets are considered the arteries of Seville where a mix of traditional and modern shops sell everything from tobacco to Flamenco dresses The blue and yellow facade of La Campana confectionery store is the oldest shop which has stood in its corner since 1885

Triana

Finally, Aguado recommends that we cross Puente de Isabel II bridge over Guadalquivir to Triana This traditionally working-class neighbourhood is the heart and soul of Flamenco and has produced some of Seville’s best Flamenco dancers and bullfighters At the end of the bridge, steps on the right lead down to 200-year-old Triana Market which buzzes like a hive Fishmongers, butchers, and greengrocers conduct daily business as Sevillians fill their bags with fresh produce Cafes serve coffee and hot pastries, and people gather around tables to socialise and exchange news before heading home

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Europe: Greece » SETTING SAIL

Janet McMeekin and Phil stopped off for lunch and a swim near the Alkyonides Islands; below Ageras moored at the harbour in the bustling town of Galaxidi Photos / Seafarer Sailing Holidays Janet McMeekin

Nothing says ‘freedom’ more than a DIY flotilla holiday in Greece. Janet McMeekin ditches her children, commandeers a small boat and sets off on a whirlwind adventure with her husband

Just as I was starting to question whether or not our first flotilla sailing holiday as a couple was a good idea, out of the blue a large pod of dolphins magically appeared on the horizon

My fears were instantly allayed as the exhilaration of witnessing the carefree, aweinspiring antics of these sociable creatures suppressed my novice sailor concerns

A couple of years ago, my experienced sailor husband, Phil, and I (an absolute beginner), embarked on our first-ever flotilla, accompanied by our grown-up children

That family break was a total success and (unexpectedly for me) one of the most memorable weeks of my life

As both young adults were busy with various commitments last summer, Phil and I decided to go it alone and booked a week’s flotilla with Seafarer Sailing Holidays in the Gulf of Corinth

I had initially been excited about the prospect of another Greek adventure with qualified skipper Phil, who reassured me that, if needs be, he could sail an Elan Impression 384 singlehandedly

However, as our departure date drew closer, niggling doubts crept in Last time I had, admittedly, been “the weakest link” when it came to the hands-on sailing

Despite a pre-holiday crash course in knottying, I wondered whether, this time, I might have bitten off more than I could chew

Our briefing was held at the Seafarer base in Kiato a bustling town, nestled between the Peloponnese and mainland Greece After

meeting the lead crew, Alex and Nathan, plus the rest of the friendly flotilla gang, we all set off as a fleet for our first port of call, Antikyra

Within minutes, a WhatsApp message revealed that dozens of dolphins were heading our way

As these creatures ducked and dived playfully under Ageras, I was spellbound and so grateful just to be there in the moment humbled by the opportunity to see dolphins in this natural, beautiful and tranquil environment

As they swam into the distance, I was left wondering whether a) the week could actually get any better b) if we’d peaked too soon and c) if there might be a chance to spot more dolphins From that moment, I began easing into my new crew role Rather than shying away from the task

With the wind in our sails, we headed through the Gulf of Corinth, to a tiny bay where local fishermen were enjoying a lowkey barbecue lunch

of dropping the anchor (as I’d done during our previous flotilla break), I knew that this year I had to step up

Making sure my hands and feet were nowhere near this rather vicious-looking piece of equipment, I managed We anchored in a beautiful, secluded bay for a tasty picnic lunch

By the time we arrived for welcome drinks beside the lighthouse at Antikyra, I was enthusiastically swapping stories about our first day at sea with our fellow sailors

The following day, after sailing in light winds to Galaxidi a photogenic town, boasting a striking church, pastel-coloured houses with painted shutters and vibrant bougainvillea Phil and I hit our first challenge

Having successfully dropped anchor just outside Galaxidi , I got cold feet and suggested it might be better to moor overnight alongside the quay instead

As Phil and Nathan radioed each other about the side-to-mooring manoeuvre, with adrenaline pumping, I found myself taking the helm and trying to recall my knot practice to help with fender duty

It was a relief when we finally stepped ashore to explore this picturesque town, jam-packed with fabulous independent shops, including several bakeries, and an Isle de Re vibe

That evening, almost everyone in the flotilla signed up for Alex’s highly recommended suggestion of visiting the Unesco World Heritage Site of Delphi, well worth the early start Leaving this photogenic town the following

morning, as “Captain Phil” unfurled the sails, we made our way peacefully towards the popular marina at Trizonia the only inhabited island in the Corinthian Gulf

Arriving in brisk winds, Nathan and Alex lent a helpful hand as we rafted up beside their yacht Hopping across Zynobia, Phil and I ambled through the meandering lanes to explore what this pretty island had to offer

During our stroll off the beaten track, we happened upon the Trizonia Bay Hotel

Discovering that non-residents were welcome, we spent a couple of hours enjoying a refreshing dip in the hotel’s pool, swimming in the azure waters off the

Checklist

CORINTH, GREECE

GETTING THERE

Fly from Auckland to Athens with one stopover with Qatar Airways and Emirates The drive time to Kiato Corinth is about one hour 10 minutes

DETAILS

The base for the Seafarer flotilla trip is at Kiato on the Gulf of Corinth

To reach the town travellers can drive there or catch a train from Athens Airport to Kiato Station and jump in a taxi to the quay where your yacht awaits visitgreece gr seafarersailing co uk

Right, from top, hopping off the yachts to explore the impressive archaeological site of Delphi; sailing towards the pretty harbour at Galaxidi; Seafarer yachts anchored peacefully in the Corinth Gulf; below, one of the Seafarer yachts leaves Agios Isidoros early in the morning Photos / Janet McMeekin Seafarer Sailing

nearby jetty, and sipping iced coffees under raffia parasols

That evening during another group meal, while watching the full moon rising, we discussed our plans for the next day’s

“free sailing” as Alex explained the lead boat would be leaving us Teaming up with two other families, we agreed Agios Isidoros looked like a terrific spot for our fifth day of sailing

The next day, while sailing relatively close to Argo and Thunderbird 1, my day-one wish came true as more friendly dolphins (Greece’s official national animal) put on another breathtaking show

On our last day, Phil suggested it would

be a great opportunity to completely go it alone

With the wind in our sails, we headed through the Gulf of Corinth, to a tiny bay where local fishermen were enjoying a low-key barbecue lunch

After an invigorating swim, I perched on the bow, drinking in the view of lush hills, dotted with eye-catching white homes topped with terracotta roofs Pondering our week’s adventures, I wondered why I’d ever doubted our holiday would be a success

When I boarded the plane back to Gatwick the next day, the lady sitting beside me mentioned she had just spent a week with her husband and teenage children sailing around the Corinth Gulf

When she revealed that her 80-year-old mother had flown over from New Zealand to join them on their bareboat adventure, it made me think

As our flight touched down, I vowed to take a leaf out of the sprightly octogenarian’s book, learn a few more knots, and look forward to our next adventure on the high seas

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HIGHLIGHTS: TRANZALPINE TRAIN,

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