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GOING SOLO SPECIAL

AUGUST 11, 2026

Inside » SOLO AT SEA Safe and sociable cruises » THE ART OF UNPLUGGING El Salvador's hidden wellness haven » SALSA BY THE SEINE You'll never dance alone

TALES FROM

o c c o r o M The enduring charm of Marrakech

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2 | Tuesday, August 11, 2026

Flights on us

Economy airfares included up to AU$2,800 per person* Secure your preferred sailing & stateroom across Viking’s river, ocean and expedition voyages. Hurry, 2027 departures are selling fast.

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Tuesday, August 11, 2026 | 3

CONTENTS

8 11 16 20 22 27

NO SKIS? NO PROBLEM What to do in Ruapehu in winter SALSA BY THE SEINE Jo Kessel gives this Paris trend a twirl

Scan this QR code with your mobile phone to find more great travel tips, advice and inspiration from nzherald.co.nz/travel

OWN YOUR OWN SUNSET Surprising sanctuary in El Salvador THE WIFE SAID NO A solo road trip from Cleveland to Buffalo POETRY, MAGIC AND MUSIC Marrakech’s Jemaa el-Fna throbs with life

DRAM GOOD JOURNEY A whisky-lover’s guide to Scotland’s Isle of Islay

CONTACTS NZ Herald Print Editor: Sam Hurley Magazines Planning Editor: Sarah Pollok Magazines News Editor: Brenda Ward Premium Production Leader: Isobel Marriner Senior Journalist Print (Travel): Anna Sarjeant Designers/sub editors: Rob Cox, Jill Stanford, Isobel Marriner Cover: Marrakech Photo / Mauro Lima on Unsplash travel@nzherald.co.nz nzherald.co.nz/travel Facebook.com/nzhtravel Instagram.com/nzhtravel Listen to our podcast Trip Notes at iHeartRadio Advertising: advertise@nzme.co.nz

South Island Su m m e r Ra i l

22 27 ESC CORTED TOUR T WITH H YOU ALL THE WAY!

04 - 17 March 2027 INCLUDES: Northern Explorer train from Auckland to Wellington • Cook Strait ferry crossing • Coastal Paciﬁc train from Blenheim to Christchurch • TranzAlpine train traverse of the Southern Alps • Vineyard lunch in Marlborough • Visit Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre • West Coast highlights including Franz Josef Glacier • Walter Peak dinner experience in Queenstown • Milford Sound lunch cruise • The Catlins • Stewart Island day trip • Two nights in Christchurch, Queenstown, Te Anau and Invercargill • One way airfare from Dunedin to Auckland • Daily cooked breakfast • Hassle free and well-paced • Pukekohe Travel escort with you all the way! • Plus more!

Phone: 0800 785 386 | Email: mary@pukekohetravel.nz www.pukekohetravel.co.nz/summer

View Tour

PUKEKOHE TRAVEL Established in 1978

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4 | Tuesday, August 11, 2026

Hot deals

Classic Morocco Explore Morocco on this eight-day Intrepid Travel small-group tour from Casablanca to Marrakech. Wander the ancient medinas of Fes and Marrakech, visit the Roman ruins of Volubilis, ride a camel across the Sahara Desert and spend a night under the desert stars. Along the way, experience mountain villages, colourful markets, local cuisine and authentic cultural encounters. Priced from $2061pp twin-share, the tour includes hotel, riad and Sahara Desert camp accommodation, seven breakfasts, one lunch, three dinners, a complimentary arrival transfer, a camel ride and guided sightseeing throughout Morocco. Save 10% on selected departures between July 2026 and September 2027. Book by December 21, 2026. Visit worldtravellers.co.nz/deals/2026-wish-list-2/intrepid-journeys/classic-morocco

voco Queenstown opening offer Celebrate the opening of voco Queenstown with a two-night Rest & Restore Opening Special package. Stay in a Mountain View Room and enjoy a relaxing alpine escape in the heart of Queenstown, complete with a 90-minute Bathhouse session, daily breakfast at Mozzarella & Co, a bottle of prosecco, Sleep Glow pillow mist and pulse point essential oil amenities. The package is built around voco’s “Me Time” experience, designed to help guests slow down and unwind. The Opening Special starts from $494 per night, based on a minimum two-night stay at the hotel’s Best Flexible Rate. Book directly at ihg.com or through the IHG One Rewards app, where guests must be logged into their member account to access the offer.

personalised service from a dedicated cruise manager, two nights in Lucerne, two nights in Zurich and guided sightseeing throughout the Switzerland extension. The cruise departs on July 15, 2027. Book by August 23, 2026. Airfares and transfers are additional. Subject to change and availability. Visit travel-associates.co.nz/luxuryholidays/cruise/28197019 or call 0800 482 776.

Norwegian Spirit cruise Cruise from Auckland to Sydney aboard Norwegian Spirit on an 11-day voyage, visiting Tauranga, Lyttelton, Milford Sound, Burnie and Melbourne. Along the way, experience the highlights of New Zealand and Australia while enjoying award-winning on-board facilities, including 14 dining venues, nine bars and lounges, and an award-winning spa. Fares start from $339pp per day for departures on February 5 and 27, 2027. The fare includes 24-hour complimentary dining, live entertainment, stylish accommodation and gratuities. Upgrade to Free at Sea from $69pp per day to receive premium drinks, speciality dining, Wi-Fi and more. Visit ncl.com/au/en/vacations?sail-id=59287 to book or call 0800 440 222.

Rhine River and Switzerland cruise Drift through the heart of Europe on this sevennight AmaWaterways river cruise from Amsterdam to Basel aboard the elegant AmaSiena, complete with a post-cruise extension through Switzerland. Sail past medieval castles, terraced vineyards and charming Rhine villages, with immersive guided tours at every port of call. Priced from $9375pp, the package includes a Travel Associates US$300 ($510) on-board credit per stateroom, all-inclusive dining with regionally inspired cuisine, unlimited wine, beer and soft drinks with meals, a daily cocktail hour,

Avalon Australian International Airshow Spend a long weekend in Melbourne and visit the Avalon Australian International Airshow, one of the world’s biggest aviation events. Alongside entry to the airshow, you’ll have free time to explore Melbourne’s laneways, gardens and attractions before finishing the day with a Yarra River dinner cruise overlooking the city skyline. Priced from $3291pp twin-share, the all-inclusive tour includes return flights from Auckland, three nights’ accommodation with daily breakfast, Avalon Australian International Airshow entry, a Yarra River dinner cruise, all transfers and a Pukekohe Travel escort throughout the journey. The tour runs from February 26 to March 1, 2027. Visit pukekohetravel.co.nz/avalon or call 0800 785 386.

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Tuesday, August 11, 2026 | 5

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6 | Tuesday, August 11, 2026

Fiji »

Rooted in Fijian culture Fiji bound? If ever you’re tempted to ditch the tourists and follow the locals in pursuit of adventure, make sure it’s for unadulterated kava, writes Chris Stead

he sky was bursting into beautiful flames as the sun set over the Fijian palm trees, but my mind was elsewhere. I was on the hunt for kava. The boys back home had been talking it up well before I’d left for paradise, big Cheshire grins across their knowing faces. And tonight was the night. My luxury five-star resort was bringing some local culture to its guests in the form of a kava ceremony, and I had arrived early to get a good seat. Kava — or yaqona in the local tongue — is a drink made from the root of the Piper methysticum plant. It’s central to Fijian culture and a sacred cultural tradition. Within its earthy, not particularly pleasant taste is kavalactone, a compound that creates a calm, relaxed state without messing with your clarity. Sharing kava is said to create an invisible bond between participants, but there wasn’t much chance of that during this loud, tourist-centric affair. So, after the experience, I went up to the young, local host and asked, “Where can I get some good kava?” He held up a little plastic bag with some gaudy touristy art on it and said: “In the gift shop.” “Would you drink that?” I queried, and his laughter told me all I needed to know. “I want real kava mate, the kind you would drink in your village,” I pushed. He looked me over and smiled. “Meet me tomorrow at 10am, and I will take you to get kava.”

Good kava starts with good roots. Photo / Getty Images

The mission begins So it was that I found myself standing outside the resort the next morning with no idea what I had gotten myself into. At 10am, my new friend turned up in a small 4x4 with the top popped. As soon as I heard Bob Marley playing out of his speakers, I knew every little thing was gonna be all right. As we drove, we spoke about music, the resort, and island life. Good kava started with good roots, I was told, and as far as he was concerned, that meant

heading several villages over, to a local market. A sensory overload of smells, sights and sounds, he led me on a winding path between hawkers, deep under the large, makeshift roof. At the very back was our man; piles of uglylooking root balls lined along his tables. They were covered in dirt and appeared as if they had not so much been harvested as forcefully heaved from the turf by some colossus. At my host’s command, I purchased some roots, small bowls and a cloth bag, used for straining. Back in the 4x4, we took off across the island, past farms and palms, laughing as the wind whipped at our hair. Our next stop was his home village for phase two. My gift to the village was going to be one of the kava roots, and in exchange, they would help me prepare my stash. A great deal. The good kava His home village was a world away from the resort and his sharp staff attire. A handful of bure scattered haphazardly in the space behind the ocean-lining palms. Dogs and kids scurried about the sandy patches between. The homes had no doors and some, no walls — external or internal. This was real Fijian village life, and it was so much simpler and rustic than I could have imagined. In the centre of the village was a tuki bowl

— a vase-like, metallic cylinder — and a tuki, a long metal pole. The pounding bowl and pounding stick. We jammed the roots into the bowl until it was overflowing, then we stood opposite each other and took it in turns to lift the stick up and then pound it down into the bowl. Clang! Clang! Clang! It’s very heavy and you could only do about 10 pounds before you’d pass it to the next man to catch a breather. Shortly, the telltale sound attracted attention and two men joined us. The four of us stood shoulder to shoulder, beading sweat. My weak hits were the source of much merriment, but I couldn’t stop; I knew that. Not till it was done. After all, I had found myself not just at the centre of traditional Fijian culture, but part of it. Slowly, the roots pushed down beyond sight. Then, countless “clangs” later, they were but a coarse powder. The good kava. I gave most of it to the village, then packed two paper bags to take back home. What an experience. Get together and feel all right When I jumped on the plane to head home, I felt fantastic. I was coming home with a story — a memory I’d never forget. I’d had a great adventure and seen a side of Fiji few others do.

Western Australia

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Explore northern Europe’s cities and Norway’s majestic fjords. Highlights rural and mountain scenery of Scandinavia.

Call us on 0800 500 518 | View more of our 2026 & 2027 tours online at www.mahertours.co.nz

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*Terms & Conditions apply: Valid for sales to 14 August 2026. Valid for travel commenced and completed within the period 19 Aug 26 & completed 31 Mar 27 (unless otherwise specified, please check with your travel agent). Closeout and blackout periods apply over school holidays and peak holiday periods and availability of seats and rooms is likely to be very limited over this time. Prices are ex Auckland as specified flying Economy Class with Qantas. Stopovers permitted, conditions apply, please check with your travel agent. Taxes correct as at 30 Jul 26 but may be subject to change without notice. Additional day of week surcharges may apply, please check with your travel agent. All components are strictly subject to availability. A Travel Professional service fee may apply. All savings and free nights (if applicable) are included in the advertised cost and no further discount applies. Travel requiring an overnight stay in New Zealand will be at passenger’s own expense. Prices shown are based on per person costs in New Zealand dollars, for payment by cash, cheque or eftpos only. Credit card sales are not permitted unless Travel Agent acts as a merchant. Strict cancellation fees apply. For finance terms and conditions visit helloworld.co.nz. For full terms and conditions and cancellation fees please see www.helloworld.co.nz.

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8 | Tuesday, August 11, 2026

New Zealand »

skis?

No problem

What to do in Ruapehu in winter? As it turns out, a lot more than just skiing, writes Tim Roxborogh

n the forested slopes of Mt Ruapehu, where I’ve spent the past 30 minutes walking through moss-draped beech and kaikawaka trees in golden-hour sun, the tree line suddenly stops. This happens on a multi-angled volcano like this, where nature’s whims create abrupt shifts in climate and landscape. Winds change, rain and snowfall alter course and sporadically, ash spouts and lahars flow. And what presents as the most enchanted alpine forest ends like a line has been drawn on a map. Think of it like Alice in Wonderland and the discovery of new and magical surroundings the further Alice explores, and so it is true for Mt Ruapehu and the 796sq km Tongariro National Park. The soft soil of the track is now a sweeping boardwalk across a tussock wetland. And right there, revealing herself now the forest has paused, is the North Island’s tallest peak, the 2797m Mt Ruapehu, fully visible with the cobalt blue of the sky popping against the white of the fresh mid-winter snow. And all of it echoed by a reflecting pond. This is the Waitonga Falls Track, a 4km return trail starting 11km from Ohakune towards Turoa Ski Area. The 39m falls are meant to be the main attraction, but this scene of wetland, forest, snow, sky and reflecting waters has me forgetting anything that’s still to come. There’s even a halo above the trees from the lowering sun and the realisation my 1200m altitude is only just above a blanket of clouds, ready to recapture the mountain. I’ve got one bar of reception so I video call my wife, Aimee, and the kids (Riley, 7, and Austin, almost 3), who are back down the mountain where we’re staying at Ohakune’s Rocky Mountain Chalets. They’re playing Monopoly while I’m having my Damascus moment, having spent the better part of the day sledging and taking ski lessons at Turoa. Knee surgery limits me to bush walking and cycling, but witnessing our children in snow for the first time this past week at both Whakapapa and Turoa has been exhilarating. At Whakapapa we experienced the new Snowland area, with its multiple sledging and tubing lanes, magic carpet and expanded snow school. Then there’s the Sky Waka Gondola that transports skiers, snowboarders and sightseers 1.8km to an altitude above 2000m for New Zealand’s highest restaurant at Knoll Ridge

Ruapehu echoed by a reflecting pond on the Waitonga Falls Track; above, Oranleigh Lodge is perched in the hills just out of Taumarunui. Photos / Tim Roxborogh

Chalet (you won’t regret the buffet’s bao buns nor the Thai green curry). Above the clouds, everything from the views to the structure itself is surreal in the best possible way. Whakapapa (New Zealand’s largest ski field at 550ha) and Turoa (the highest descent in Australasia at 722m) complement each other. It may well be that Whakapapa is the goer for families and non-skiers, and that Turoa gets the nod for more capable skiers and snowboarders. But this nonskier loved both, including Turoa’s ski-lift up above 1900m to see everything from frozen waterfalls, heart-stopping gradients that people actually ski down and, off in the distance, piercing the clouds, Mt Taranaki. We’d first spotted Mt Taranaki — as well as Mt Ruapehu, Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe — at the beginning of our holiday while staying at Oranleigh Lodge. Perched in the hills just out of Taumarunui, Oranleigh is a newly built two-storey, four-bedroom luxury home. And if you’re there on a clear, still winter’s day, you’ll know never to underestimate how captivating the countryside around Taumarunui is. The low winter sun creates drama in the shadows of all the peaks and valleys Oranleigh overlooks, and it’s not just the North Island’s famous quartet of highest mountains, but also farmland, forest and the meanderings of the country’s third-longest river, the 290km Whanganui. The kids may’ve been more focused on the giant buckets of Lego and which of the multitude of beds to sleep in, but my wife and I knew the instant we saw Oranleigh’s living area and floor-to-ceiling windows that we’d be eating in for our first night, taking in as much as possible of those views, and driving a few golf balls from the lodge’s own tee.

Oranleigh is an ideal base for everything from Bradley’s Garden (a 5-star Garden Of National Significance), the acclaimed Forgotten World Adventures rail carts, and even the country’s biggest alpaca farm, Nevalea. Or if you’re here primarily for the snow, Whakapapa is only an hour away, but it was somewhere barely 20 minutes south of the tiny town of whango that has us already plotting our return. Adjoining the 257sq km Tongariro Forest (which itself lies next to Tongariro National Park) is the 148ha slice of prehistoric rainforest, Ohinetonga Scenic Reserve. It’s easy to assume that if not within the boundaries of a national park, then perhaps it’s not quite as worth visiting. I’ll be blunt: Ohinetonga blew me away to the extent it would rank among the most stunning bush walks I’ve done in New Zealand. Usually, when native forest is this spectacular — with towering centuries-old rimu, totara and miro trees — it’s more remote. But at Ohinetonga you’re just off the highway, it’s an easily accessible 90-minute loop, and you’re close to a terrific cafe (Blue Hill, I recommend the nachos and the lasagne). We’ll definitely be back. That’s also our plan for the Singapore-sized Pureora Forest (760sq km), roughly an hour’s drive to Taumarunui’s northeast. It was 2013 when the 85km Timber Trail through Pureora opened, and 2017 when the lodge at the Piropiro halfway point welcomed its first guests. Since then the Timber Trail has become so entrenched as a North Island cycling mustdo (20,000 riders per year) that it’s hard to believe the whole concept is barely a dozen years old. The Timber Trail is also suitable on foot, or you can do a bit of both. After walking through some of the country’s largest, gnarliest rata trees on the 60-minute Rata Loop behind the lodge, I biked 6km to the most-photographed landmark on the trail, the 141m Maramataha Bridge. A swing bridge, it’s not just the trail’s longest, but at 58m, Maramataha is the highest too. Beneath is a lush ravine, offering clues to Pureora’s vital saving from the logging that continued until protests in the late 1970s swayed both public and government opinion. There’s an unpretentious spirit at the Timber Trail Lodge, where fireside chats, board games and delicious communal meals with fellow travellers have you swapping tales and thinking about where to head next. And for the people who adore Pureora, chances are that will also involve the new Mountains To Sea network of trails back further towards Ruapehu. With our next base at The Park Hotel, Waimarino (30 minutes south of Taumarunui,

travel

Tuesday, August 11, 2026 | 9

From left, Dinosaur House, 10 minutes west of Ohakune, has been converted from a 1922 heritage council building into an internationally significant collection of all things dinosaur; Riley cycling Mountains To Sea’s 9km Te Hangāruru section. Photos / Tim Roxborogh

dine by the hotel’s roaring fire and go for the chicken korma with naan), we rode Mountains To Sea’s nearby 9km Te Hangāruru section. Austin grinned away while sitting shotgun with me, while Riley stretched herself on her own bike. And as a sampler of the wonders of cycling between the two great North Island national parks of Tongariro and Whanganui alongside the

tributaries that lead from the Central Plateau all the way to the oceanside city of Whanganui, Mountains To Sea is a much-admired community initiative. Community is a word that keeps coming up the longer we’re here. It manifests in the support given to the excellent, evolving National Army Museum in Waiouru (20 minutes east of Ohakune; kids will especially enjoy the activity trail and the hands-on Kids HQ), as well as wonderfully bonkers places like Horopito Motors where we finished our Mountains To Sea ride. Part museum, part colossal junkyard, Horopito feels like the national archives of every historical automobile component you could ever conceive. Reportedly the largest vintage car wreckers in the Southern Hemisphere, Horopito is for movie buffs too, having starred in Kiwi classics like Smash Palace, Goodbye Pork Pie and Hunt for the Wilderpeople. Film fans should also beeline to Raetihi’s Dinosaur House, and it too falls under the description of “wonderfully bonkers”. Ten minutes west of Ohakune, husband-and-wife Ian and Sarah Moore have converted a 1922 heritage council building into an internationally significant collection of all things dinosaur. As in, a giant wall-bursting T-Rex, an exact replica animatronic brachiosaurus from the first Jurassic Park film (yes, it munches), and even the late Sam Neill’s Jurassic Park III costume. Riley and Austin raved about the Dinosaur House, just as they spent each day in Ohakune asking when we were going back to Carrotland. Everybody knows about Ohakune’s 7.5m tall carrot, widely hailed as the world’s largest carrot statue. But if that claim to fame doesn’t move you, check out the still expanding Carrotland right behind the statue. This most glorious of playgrounds takes Ohakune’s vegetable-growing reputation and runs with it to such an extent that Carrotland — complete with carrot-themed race car and rocket ship, not to mention non-carroty

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Tuesday, August 11, 2026 | 11

Solo travel: Paris »

It takes a city to salsa Paris has become a surprising hub for free, open-air salsa by the Seine. But how to join in as a solo traveller? All-round good sport Jo Kessel gives it a go.

’ve been on the dance floor all of two minutes when someone approaches, holds out his hand and pulls me into some Latin American moves. What follows is a riot of spins, shimmies and crisscrossing arms — he’s clearly a pro — and somehow we untangle this way and that, finishing with a dramatic dip. The dance is the salsa, his name is Freddie, and what’s surprising is that this isn’t Puerto Rico or Cuba, but Paris. Nobody’s sure how or why it started, but over the past two decades the French capital has adopted this dance and earned a reputation for being a city of salsa. I became aware of it during a cruise down the Seine several months ago. It was a balmy spring night, music was turned up and my ship sailed past hundreds who had gathered to dance on the river’s left bank. And now I’ve hopped on a train from London to Paris to try it myself. Although, this being Europe, the weather can be unpredictable and salsa by the Seine is cancelled in rain. So instead I’ve come to the Canal St-Martin, which is close to my hotel as well as to Le Comptoir General, a Parisian club well known for its free, Tuesday salsa nights. It’s popular, heaving and, as a solo traveller, you’ve a good chance of being asked to dance. Over the evening I’m whisked (and occasionally lifted) around the floor by several partners. There’s limited conversation; the language is salsa. I’m staying at the Generator Paris, trendy new accommodation which is part hotel part hostel. You can book a bed in a dorm from NZ$50 a night (some are women only) but there are private rooms with en suite bathrooms too. Mine has a superb view of the Sacre Coeur church in Montmartre (a 30-minute walk away) as does the hotel’s bar on the ninth-floor roof terrace. The Generator also holds salsa nights, offering weekly Tuesday $10 classes, which would have been a useful introduction for an amateur like me. Salsa by the Seine is free and unofficial. Gatherings take place on the Quai Saint-Bernard (near the Institut du Monde Arabe) and while there are Facebook groups and websites offering information about what’s on, where and when, the only way to be sure is to go. Not too early, mind — crowds don’t rock up until around 9pm — and weekends are best. That said, while tucking into an Aperitif Platter at Hotel Castille’s hidden courtyard Terrazza restaurant ($115 buys two cocktails and Turn to p12

Jo Kessel spins, shimmies and dips with a dance pro at Salsa by the Seine . Photo / Jo Kessel

travel

12 | Tuesday, August 11, 2026

Solo travel: Paris »

From p11

a delicious Italian smorgasbord of burrata, crudites, prosciutto and breadsticks), I pluck up the courage to check out the salsa on a Thursday. Expectations are low because of earlier precipitation, but there is a small gathering in one of the quays’ sunken amphitheatres. Music blares through a portable speaker and while others do dance, I don’t. No matter, there’s still tomorrow. Of course, nobody comes to Paris just to salsa. You come to explore, for French food and culture. And I’m determined to pack it all in the next day. The hop-on-hop-off electric TootBus is a great way to see the main sights: the Eiffel Tower, the Opera, the Louvre and so on. Then a wander down the world’s most iconic avenue, the Champs Elysees, leads me to the new Cira restaurant, a perfect lunch spot in an al fresco courtyard away from the buzz. Cuisine’s Mediterranean and cooked to perfection: grilled watermelon with feta, fire-grilled sea bream, olive oil mashed potatoes, parmesan-wrapped asparagus, with a signature homemade lemon-infused salt. Obviously, those calories will need to be worked off. Come 9pm, I’m raring to go and head to the Quai Saint-Bernard with nervous anticipation. Will the salsa be on, will people show up, will I be asked to dance? The weather is fair, it’s the start of the weekend and the river’s left bank is buzzing with Parisians drinking and picnicking, sitting on the quay’s edge, legs dangling over the Seine. I hear it first, then see it — sexy, sultry, salsa beats and a couple of hundred dancers whirling and twirling, some in pairs, some solo. It’s electric and infectious and I hasten to reach the centre of the swaying throng. At first, I’m self-conscious. Most dancers seem to know what they’re doing. But it’s easy to get caught up in it and lose inhibitions. Eventually, I’m swept off my feet by students, professionals, Parisians, foreigners, some shy, some extroverted, all smiling. There’s an apparent protocol — dance a number, high five, then move on. Nobody is bothered by my amateur moves. This tangle of strangers who’ve gathered to enjoy the innocent pleasure of dancing outdoors is a joy to behold and be part of. If the beating heart of Paris is the River Seine, then the city’s thrumming, swirling soul is the salsa. If you’re here in spring or summer, don’t miss it.

From top, when the weather is fair, the left bank is buzzing with Parisians drinking and picnicking, sitting on the quay’s edge, legs dangling over the Seine; the roof-terrace bar at Generator Paris, a trendy new accommodation that is part hotel part hostel; the tangle of strangers who gather to enjoy the innocent pleasure of dancing outdoors is a joy to behold and be part of, says Jo Kessel. Photos / Unsplash, Jo Kessel, supplied

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Tuesday, August 11, 2026 | 13

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14 | Tuesday, August 11, 2026

Review » Melissa Nightingale checks into Wellington’s DoubleTree by Hilton and receives a warm welcome - literally.

he DoubleTree by Hilton is the first hotel that’s squeezed a surprised giggle out of me at the check-in desk. That’s because, along with my room key, they’ve just handed me a small paper bag with a cookie inside, which feels as if it just came out of the oven 10 minutes before. This quite literal warm welcome is a staple of Hilton check-ins that I hadn’t been expecting, as unbeknownst to me, the staff keep a warmer at the front desk so they can greet each guest with this homely touch. For me, it sets the scene for an equally warm hotel experience, despite the fact I’m visiting in the middle of cold, rainy Wellington winter. Location: This is a premium spot for anyone wanting to be in the centre of Wellington. It’s in a heritage building on the corner of Lambton Quay and Grey St, right in the hustle and bustle of the capital. The nearly 100-year-old building is on the doorstep of almost anything you could want to do in the CBD. Perfect for: Tourists wanting a touch of luxury, or business travellers who want to be close to everything they need for their trip. Anybody who appreciates heritage, food and shopping will enjoy a stay in this location, which has a bit of everything. There’s also something for the art lovers: DoubleTree by Hilton provides guided tours through the building to peruse and discuss the artworks on each level, which are swapped out every six months to help promote New Zealand-based artists. First impressions: The lobby is true to its heritage past and gives you a feeling of stepping back into 1920s Wellington. Meanwhile, the staff are quick, friendly and professional. It is only a minute or so before I’m heading to my room, warm cookie in hand. The Room: I stayed in the junior suite, a spacious room with a separate sitting area and workspace. I’m struck by the high ceilings, which add a grand feeling to the room. It’s likely constrained a bit by heritage limitations when it comes to the windows, but the room does not get a great deal of natural light, so at times can feel quite dark. There’s a small hot drinks station and a complimentary selection of snacks — assorted nuts, banana chips and a couple of Whittaker’s bars — and bottled water, both still and lightly sparkling. One thing I particularly appreciate is that the alarm clock can be completely dimmed for those who need a dark room at night. Bathroom: My favourite part of this room is the generously sized bath, which is tall enough to sit upright in and still be almost fully submerged. There’s also a separate rain shower, which has plenty of room, and reusable bottles of Crabtree & Evelyn toiletries. Other basic toiletries include a shower cap, cotton buds and puffs, and a sanitary bag. Facilities: There’s a fitness centre, meeting rooms for business travellers, and free Wi-Fi for guests. The restaurant is also a welcome addition. Food and Drink: A friend and I went to the on-site Grazie Italiano for dinner, and loved every bite. The highlights for me were the incredibly fresh and crunchy buttered broccolini, and the mushroom arancini, both of which I declared were the best I’d ever had. I returned to Grazie the next morning for the buffet breakfast, which had some of the fluffiest, softest pastries I’ve eaten at a buffet before. I liked the fridge full of cucumber detox water and “immune shots” — tiny bottles of turmeric and beetroot juices. In the neighbourhood: You’re walking distance from pretty much anything you want to do in Wellington’s city centre. Pop out the front door and stroll down Lambton Quay for some shopping, or walk a few minutes the other way to reach the waterfront. There’s also the Beehive, central train station, and entertainment district nearby, as well as Hnry Stadium, the TSB Arena, Te Papa Museum and the Tākina convention centre. The walk to all of these locations is flat.

ROOM CHECK

DoubleTree by Hilton Wellington is right in the middle of the action on the corner of Grey St and Lambton Quay; below, the junior suite is generously sized and includes a separate seating and work area; a highlight was the bath, which was tall enough to sit upright in and still be submerged; the mushroom arancini at Grazie Italiano. Photos / Melissa Nightingale, supplied

The best bit: The 12pm check-out means there’s no rush in the morning, leaving me ample time for a sleepin, leisurely breakfast and a wander around the nearby shops. Room for improvement: The bathroom taps are set to be scald-proof, but this did mean the bath needed regular topping up to keep it warm enough. Sustainability: Hilton works on special projects every six months focused on saving energy, waste and water consumption. They are regularly working on sourcing better amenity options, and most of the amenities in the rooms are biodegradable. The company also spends time twice a year helping to clean local parks. Accessibility: The hotel prioritises a range of accessibility features, including bedroom doors with at least 32-inch clearance for wheelchairs, roll-in showers, and lowered beds, shelves, light switches and more. A full list of the accessible features can be found on the website. Price: Rooms range from about $235 to $734, but these prices can fluctuate depending on when they are booked. Rates for the junior suite start from about $376. Contact: Visit the Hilton website, call 04 499 3496 or email reservations.wellington@hilton.com

travel

Tuesday, August 11, 2026 | 15

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16 | Tuesday, August 11, 2026

Solo travel: El Salvador

sunset A OWN YOUR OWN

Solo traveller Lucy Pearson disco surf-and-wellness sanctuary in E place that challenges everything she knew about the country week before I flew to El Salvador, I texted my friend Ben to tell him I was going away. I framed the trip as a chance to improve my Spanish and finally learn how to surf, though the truth is I’ve never needed much justification to book a flight. If a destination sparks my curiosity, that’s usually reason enough, as he well knows. He replied almost immediately. “On a serious note, that is one of the sketchiest countries I’ve ever been to by a long shot,” he wrote. “If you’re drinking or out late at night, can you be smart over there? I don’t want to scare you, but that place is pretty hectic. Keep your wits about you.” Not exactly the reassuring send-off I’d been hoping for, and not one I particularly wanted to relay to my family when I casually mentioned, a few days before my flight, where I was heading. My parents have long accepted that spontaneous trips are as much a part of who I am as my love of books, but seeing Ben’s message, I did wonder whether my optimism and appetite for adventure occasionally outran my common sense. As I read and reread his text, I found myself questioning whether my somewhat relaxed attitude to personal safety might finally be due a rethink. I was travelling alone, after all, and preparation has never been something I’ve paid much heed to. My pre-trip routine typically involves forgetting to tell my phone provider I’m leaving the country, packing the wrong adapter, and neglecting to add an emergency contact to my itinerary. Geography has never been my strong suit either, which means the descriptions I send friends about where I’m staying tend to run along the lines of “a beach town a couple of hours from the capital” or “somewhere near the water” — as though that constitutes a location. If something were to happen to me, I’m not entirely convinced anyone would have a clue where to start looking. Solo female travel has become increasingly mainstream, yet El Salvador remains conspicuously absent from most lists of recommended destinations. For years, the country has carried a reputation shaped by headlines about gang violence, extortion and political instability. Even people who’d never been there seemed remarkably wary about my decision to go. Yet eight days later, after a rather grim 26-hour journey from Sydney — one of the less glamorous aspects of living in Australia — my first impressions of El Salvador could not have been more different. After a five-hour flight from LA, during which I clocked precisely zero shut-eye, my search for an iced coffee got off to a rather poor start. Because, while I like to think of myself as an adventurous traveller, eager to immerse myself in local culture wherever possible, I am shamefully dependent on iced coffee, and after 26 hours in transit, well — look, I’m not going to blame my subpar Spanish entirely on said iced coffee’s absence, but I will say I think it had something to do with it. By the time I reached immigration, suffice is to say I sounded considerably better in my head than I did when actually speaking. A few months earlier I’d spent a week in

vel

Tuesday, August 11, 2026 | 17

overs a hidden El Salvador — a g she thought Spend peaceful days at Mizata Beach, where the waves form perfectly for surfing; below, solo female travel has become increasingly mainstream, but friends were concerned when Lucy Pearson told them she was travelling alone to El Salvador; Pearson and fellow guests celebrate together at Mizata. Photos / Lucy Pearson, supplied

Below, Mizata attracts visitors in search of somewhere still largely unspoiled by tourism; a surf instructor at Mizata flashes a shaka while holding a board. Photos / Lucy Pearson, supplied

Mexico City learning Spanish, but standing at the customs desk in San Salvador, sleepdeprived and severely undercaffeinated, I struggled to remember half of it. I managed to explain that it was my first time in El Salvador and that I’d recently been in Mexico City studying the language. The woman listened patiently as I butchered several verb conjugations before waving me through with a smile. A few hours later, I was attempting to swim in the Pacific despite warnings from two American girls that the current was rather wild. Post-swim, black sand in every bodily crevice imaginable, I found myself wondering whether Ben and I had been talking about the same country. My base was Mizata by Antiresort, a surf and wellness resort tucked away on a remote stretch of coastline about 90 minutes from San Salvador. It attracts the sort of traveller who’s outgrown Costa Rica, Bali and Tulum, in search of somewhere still largely unspoiled by tourism. But what struck me the most wasn’t what was there, but what wasn’t. There were surfers,

who made navigating the onslaught of waves from three different directions look easy, yogis and a handful of digital nomads, but Spanish remained the dominant language — my own attempts lying somewhere between optimistic and embarrassing. There were smoothies served in coconut shells, an innovative longevity clinic offering everything from IV drips to stem cell therapy, and the familiar architecture of a wellness retreat. But for every recognisable marker of the genre, there was something less rehearsed: a foundation funding local initiatives, established by owner Joshua Host, weekly beach clean-ups organised by his brother Shon Miller, and visits to a local school with the director of the foundation, Amalie Ambrosius. In a strange way, I began to wonder whether El Salvador’s reputation had done it an unexpected favour. The same headlines that have made travellers hesitant have also kept the crowds away. While other surf destinations have spent years being discovered, uploaded to Instagram and repackaged to fit the Western ideal, parts of El Salvador still feel like they’re waiting to be found. That isn’t to suggest El Salvador has no complications. It would be naive to ignore its recent history, or the ongoing debates around the Government’s crackdown on gangs. But what struck me most was the distance between the version of the country people believed to be true and the one standing right in front of me. The days themselves featured early mornings

watching the waves, lots of bad Spanish (humbling), learning to surf (even more so), reading by the pool, and an early night with a book — the rooms at Mizata are deliberately screen-free. Outside of it, life carried on at an unhurried pace. Families gathered on the beach at sunset, children played football in the sand, surfers stayed out until the light faded. Nothing about it felt staged or arranged for visitors. Perhaps because of that, El Salvador still sits in an unusual position. Visitors want to tell everyone about this undiscovered gem — this stretch of coastline that’s beautiful precisely because it’s so unspoilt — but in doing so, risk turning the place into a victim of its own success. I’m aware of the irony, then, in writing this at all. I spent eight heavenly, at times otherworldly, days in El Salvador, and I never once felt unsafe. So much so that, while I’d been remarkably wellbehaved for most of the trip, I saved a near allnighter for my final one — a last hurrah before the long journey home. Stumbling back home in the early hours, one too many margaritas deep, I felt safer than I probably would have done walking home in London or LA — two cities I’ve actually lived in, and know far better than I know El Salvador. Which, in my admittedly unscientific way of judging a place, is about as good as it gets. The writer was partly hosted by Mizata for some of her stay.

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18 | Tuesday, August 11, 2026

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Tuesday, August 11, 2026 | 19

Solo travel: Cruising »

Safe and sociable at sea Rebecca Barnes hops aboard a 600-guest cruise ship, alone. A voyage of discovery, confidence and companionship ensues.

y first experience of travelling solo was as a broken-hearted 20-something – I booked an allinclusive package deal to Greece to escape a messy relationship split. Despite being a fairly independent only child, I was nervous but ended up having a great time, processing my thoughts, making friends with other guests and even taking my first scubadiving lesson, albeit in the hotel pool. I even went on an impromptu date with the diving instructor. Since then, I’ve discovered cruising to be the perfect environment for reluctant solo trippers; cruises can also help increase your friendship circle, as you’ll be travelling with like-minded people in a safe and sociable space. I was, and still am, not a big fan of dining alone, but sailing solo has built my confidence so I am now able to speak to strangers and feel more at ease asking for a “table for one”. Seeing more of Asia has been on my bucket list for some time, so I finally make it happen on a cruise in Southeast Asia, ticking off Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia. Landing in Hong Kong during the Lunar New Year, I’m keen to see some of this energetic city before boarding the luxury small ship, Seabourn Encore, the following day. I jump in an Uber and head to Temple Street Night Market, an assault of colour and chaos, with fake designer garb and all manner of food from lobster balls to Chinese dumplings, everywhere you look. Tourists and locals crowd around the street food stalls, swaying lanterns jostle with festive decorations, and the scent of sticky sweet Peking duck permeates the air. It’s certainly the wakeup call I need as I battle through my jet-lagged fug. On board the 600-guest ship, I make friends, including other solo travellers and a sporty newto-cruise couple, Ben and Sarah, from the UK. One afternoon I discover that an Instagram story I posted has been spotted by a fellow solo traveller also on board – turns out that Pam is also the affable British captain’s wife. Then there’s Marilyn, a vivacious lady who has completed 1000 cruise nights, many sailing solo. She strikes up a conversation shortly after I take a seat in the intimate Sushi restaurant one evening. We get on like a house on fire, and a few nights later we’re meeting at the bar of Solis restaurant – Marilyn is clutching a bottle of Moet, despite the fact that the drinks are free-flowing on the ship. “Miss Marilyn” is known by every crew member who arrives at our table, and over a spread of regional Mediterranean dishes including Croatian shrimp, sea bass baked in a sea-salt crust, and panzanella prepared at the table, I hear how she considers Seabourn to be her second home, and that many of the crew are close friends. She goes on to reveal some of her fascinating cruise stories, including when the ship she was sailing on rescued the occupants of a small boat that had run into trouble, and the time the captain threw a surprise birthday drinks reception for her now deceased mother. If you don’t make friends organically, you’ll almost certainly bond with other guests at Seabourn’s “Caviar in the Surf” event in idyllic Ko Kood – a decadent tropical island takeover where the drinks are constant, and the food is plentiful. It’s the polar opposite to my first and last beach experience in Thailand, which

involved imbibing unknown beverages out of a bucket at a full moon party. A Zodiac raft speeds towards the waist-deep crowd in the ocean, who whoop loudly when the executive chef jumps into the water brandishing the prized caviar, which the fully uniformed crew place on blinis before distributing to the eager onlookers – there’s no better accompaniment to the champagne we’re sipping in the midday sun. But this is just the amuse-bouche, if you will, as everyone then heads back to the sand to sip fresh coconut from the shell, bliss out with a massage or kick back to live chill-out music, before indulging in an incredible barbecue lunch. In Hoi An, Ben, Sarah and I sign up for a 7km cycle ride, pedalling past paddy fields and water buffalo, and navigating the traffic on chaotic roundabouts. In southern Cambodia’s coastal port city Sihanoukville, we hike and boat tour through Ream National Park, shaded by the mangrove forests and monsoon trees which are said to protect themselves from fire. It’s a hot and sticky day, but the reward is sweet when we reach a deserted beach with bleached white sand and swaying palm trees.

From top, cruising is the perfect environment for reluctant solo trippers; the 600-guest cruise ship Seabourn Encore at sea; making friends is easy once you're on board. Photos / Michel Verdureright, Unsplash, supplied

Far too quickly the time comes to disembark, and it becomes clear why more and more independent travellers such as Marilyn are choosing to cruise. I’m sad to leave such a sociable ship, but happy to have met people who have unknowingly contributed to one of the most memorable voyages I’ve ever taken. The writer travelled courtesy of Seabourn Cruise Line.

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20 | Tuesday, August 11, 2026

Solo travel: USA »

Cleveland, the starting point of Ash Jurberg’s road trip from Cleveland to Buffalo; below, the route east crosses small Amish towns. Photos / Getty Images, Ash Jurberg

Wife said no TO BUFFALO Ash Jurberg takes himself on a solo road trip from Cleveland to Buffalo, embracing everything from kazoo factories to haunted hotels

“C

an I pray for you?” I am standing in a small shop in Madison, Ohio, at seven in the morning, and I do not know how to answer. Behind the counter, the woman who has just made my coffee is waiting. Three customers who were sitting alone have drifted over. When I walked in and asked for a coffee, the whole room turned like I was a visiting dignitary. Someone asks what brings me to their town, and then they all want to know why here and why alone. For 10 minutes I am the most interesting man in Madison, Ohio. Then she asks her question and we are holding hands in a circle. We close our eyes and she prays for my journey and my family back home. A barista has never prayed over me. I am part way into a solo road trip from

Cleveland to Buffalo. My wife, Cece, is American and always drives when we are in the United States. This time she looked at my itinerary and declined. So here I am, stressed and driving on the wrong side of the road through small-town Ohio, hoping to reach New York state intact. The nerves begin in Cleveland, before I even start driving. On my first night, rather than sit alone in my hotel room, I find a listing for the Cleveland Public Theatre. Once a month local writers bring 10 minutes of a screenplay and audience members read the parts aloud on stage. I did some acting at university, realised I was no good and stopped. At home I would never do this. But nobody in Cleveland knows me, and so I can’t be

embarrassed. Can I? They hand me a part in the first reading of the night. Before we read a line, the writer explains that the scene was written for someone considerably younger than me. I drop my script on the floor and walk off in fake disgust. The room erupts. Thirty years too late, a star is born. There is free wine and beer, which helps. By the end of the night, I have spoken to nearly everyone in the room. Cleveland, someone mentions, has the second largest theatre district in the country. Good thing I did not know that walking in, or I would have stayed in my hotel room. I leave Cleveland in the dark, before a single coffee shop has opened, and drive an hour through rain. Every intersection is a test of nerves. I know which side of the road I belong on, and my hands keep proposing the other one. By the time Madison appears, warm and lit and full of people who want to pray for me, I am ready to be adopted. The route east crosses into Pennsylvania and then small Amish towns, where the road signs carry little silhouettes of men in hats driving buggies. I pull over to photograph one. It is the first traffic sign I have ever wanted to keep. Next, I stop in Eden at the only kazoo factory

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Tuesday, August 11, 2026 | 21

From top, in Buffalo, Ash Jurberg is included in a women’s roller derby team photo after watching the match frontrow from a couch; he stops for coffee and a prayer in Madison, Ohio; making a kazoo in Eden at the only kazoo factory in North America. Photos / Ash Jurberg

in North America and make a kazoo (a small musical instrument that adds a buzzing quality to the player’s humming). I finish it with no skill but plenty of confidence. It produces a sound my family will come to resent. In Buffalo, I’m staying at the Richardson, a grand building that spent its first century as an asylum. That night the Sabres are playing Montreal in the playoffs, Buffalo’s first postseason in 14 years. I head to a women’s roller derby match instead. My accent works its magic again. Staff hear me speak and set aside a couch in the front row, just for me, in full view of the crowd. It’s like the Friends couch but I have no friends. I try to recruit strangers to join me. Nobody does. The game is fast and loud and I cheer when the people around me do. The announcer welcomes me over the microphone. Afterwards, the players wave me in for the team photo, then ask where I am staying. I tell them the Richardson. “Oh,” one says, “the haunted place.” Despite the look on my face, they begin telling me the stories they’ve heard from past guests.

I do not believe in ghosts. I also do not sleep. Every creak of that old building is a former patient coming to say hello, and I lie there rigid until the sun comes up. I make it home to Cece in one piece, full of stories she pretends not to regret missing. I would like to think the roller derby players were wrong about

the ghosts. Then again, maybe a woman in Madison held my hand at seven in the morning and prayed the former residents of the Richardson out of my room. Either way, next time Cece is invited again. Even if she says no, I will go. I know I can do it. The writer travelled at their own expense.

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22 | Tuesday, August 11, 2026

Morocco: Marrakech »

Poetry, magic, and music

Ruins of grand Badia Palace, one of Marrakech’s two accessible palaces; Jemaa el-Fna is so colourful, so busy, and so noisy, remember to look for the finer details Photos / Getty Images, Ronan O’Connell

Welcome to Marrakech, where labyrinthine streets and hypnotic public squares are abuzz with street performers and storytellers writes, Ronan O’Connell

long, bulbous snake sways back and forth in front of me, as if hypnotised. Its eerie movements match the slow rhythm of the traditional rhaita music in Marrakech’s main plaza. Staring calmly into the dead eyes of this intimidating cobra is a Moroccan man who appears unacquainted with fear. To me, this scenario is a nightmare, yet to him, it’s a daily reality. For centuries, visitors to Morocco have been transfixed by such snake charmers, hundreds of whom still operate across this North African nation, despite — in more recent times — strong opposition. Although it’s also called the Assembly of the Dead, Jemaa el-Fna throbs with life: traditional musicians, whirling dancers, street poets, fortune tellers and endless food vendors. Jemaa el-Fna has been the heart of Marrakech for more than 800 years and is so revered it is protected by Unesco. Morocco now rivals Egypt as the tourist hub of Africa. It received a record 19.8 million international visitors last year, a whopping increase on each of the previous five years. A significant part of Morocco’s appeal stems from being arguably Africa’s most accessible country. Not only does Morocco provide visa-free entry to dozens of nationalities, it’s also conveniently close to Europe, with as little as 13km of sea separating it from Southern Spain. Deepening Morocco’s allure is a long, diverse list of destinations. Many countries have only two, perhaps three cities of genuine interest to tourists, whereas Morocco has at least nine. Short ferry rides from Spain end near Tangier, a port city so attractive that the Moroccan royal family chose it for their summer palace. Further south is the blue-hued mountain city Chefchaouen, former capital Meknes, current capital Rabat,

ancient citadel Fes, Morocco’s biggest city, Casablanca, oceanfront Essaouira, and beach resort Agadir. None of which lures more tourists than Marrakech. Home to about one million people, this metropolis is rich with attractions. Marrakech is also uncommonly photogenic, especially in its labyrinthine medina that encircles Jemaa el-Fna. A rare density and vibrancy of sights unfurls amid this maze of alleys, originally hemmed by walls. This was where Marrakech was birthed in the 11th century by the Almoravid, an Islamic dynasty that made this its capital. Alongside Jemaa el-Fna is a trove of

architectural wonders. Rising above them all is the 77m-tall minaret of the 12th-century Koutoubia Mosque. Nearby Ben Youssef Madrasa is a former Islamic college with delightful Moorish architectural flourishes, which visitors can inspect throughout its dozens of rooms. Such grandeur is matched within Marrakech’s two accessible palaces: Badia and Bahia. Royal splendour also extends to the medina’s Saadian Tombs, where members of the former Saadian Dynasty lie at rest in gilded, marble mausoleums. Standing in stark contrast is the charmingly chaotic Jemaa el-Fna. Gradually, this historic plaza has morphed into something of a tourist trap. Yet amid its madness are fine examples of ancient Moroccan culture. Such that Unesco placed Jemaa el-Fna on its list of intangible cultural heritage. That global heritage protection Turn to p25

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Tuesday, August 11, 2026 | 23

From riads to the remarkable

Explore Morocco on a small group tour

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24 | Tuesday, August 11, 2026

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Tuesday, August 11, 2026 | 25

From p22

Jemaa el-Fna, which has been the heart of Marrakech for more than 800 years, throbs with life: traditional musicians, whirling dancers, street poets, fortune tellers and food vendors; below, Morocco's tourism is booming, with 19.8 million international visitors last year, drawn by its accessibility and diverse attractions. Photos / Getty Images, Ronan O’Connell

Morocco: Marrakech »

body praised this square’s “unique concentration of popular Moroccan cultural traditions performed through musical, religious and artistic expressions”. So colourful, so busy, and so noisy is this plaza, that a tourist could miss its finer details. They may not hear the emotive poetry recited by a traditional bard. Nor the rousing tales woven by a Hikayat storyteller, or the fortunes being told by a mystic. They probably won’t notice the traditional medicine being traded, or understand the Islamic preaching of holy men. What will be more obvious are the deep tones of a sintir lute plucked by a seated musician, the swirling dance of a Gnawa performance, and the brave acts of snake charmers. To foreign eyes, this latter trade could appear to be a spectacle merely for the sake of spectacle — like tightrope walking, sword swallowing, or knife throwing. However, snake charming is an art form rooted deep in the Moroccan land. Those bold men, blowing tunes on a pungi flute, are continuing a centuries-old tradition, originally entwined with Islamic worship. Visitors to this square can still watch as the sweet notes of a rhaita flute supposedly entrance the bulky cobras laid out before the musicians. Charmers use tools or hand gestures to rile the snakes, so that they assume a tall, menacing posture. Snake charming, albeit deeply ingrained in the culture, is now heavily debated in Morocco, which could result in a complete ban. Should that occur, Jemaa el-Fna has so much more to captivate its visitors. With its band of poets, musicians, storytellers and artists, Marrakech’s iconic plaza has an appeal that extends far beyond swaying snakes. The writer travelled at their own expense.

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26 | Tuesday, August 11, 2026

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Tuesday, August 11, 2026 | 27

Scotland »

A dram good journey Laphroaig Distillery sits waterside, first stop on the whisky pilgrimage; below, a distiller tends the copper stills at Ardbeg on Islay's whisky trail; a cosy guest room at The Lochside Hotel in Bowmore. Ardnahoe's twin copper stills frame sweeping sea views. Photos / Visit Scotland, Ardbeg Distillery, The Lochside Hotel

From hallowed distilleries to a memorable whisky pilgrimage, Kathryn Streeter compiles the complete whisky-lover’s guide to Scotland’s most drinkable island

he first time I visited the Isle of Islay, off Scotland’s west coast, I had kids by my side — and I didn’t even drink whisky. Last summer, though, my husband and I returned as empty-nesters, and somewhere along the way I’d become a devout fan of the island’s iconic tipple. At this new stage in life, the trip to the Inner Hebridean island couldn’t have been more different. Soulful drams, windswept distilleries, wild beaches, basking seals and crumbling ruins — I was helplessly entranced by all of it. Slower and more mindful, our getaway dropped us in a narrative of sea, peat and wind. The roads — narrow, few and sometimes overrun by sheep — insisted that we slow down and savour the whole of Islay. We still covered more revered whisky ground than one typically can in a lifetime and came away appreciating that Islay’s charms extend beyond the whisky. Out on the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry’s open deck, my husband and I toasted Islay with wind thrashing our faces. We arrived at Port Askaig two hours later, driving our rental car ashore. Our late-day arrival didn’t matter because Scotland’s summer sunsets stretch to 10pm. Packed with major whisky brands, the size of the island — roughly 40km by 24km — is ideal for whisky lovers. Our cosy bungalow in The Rhinns — Islay’s western peninsula — oozed with coorie vibes. Given Islay’s characteristically moody skies, it was a nightly haven for snuggling with Hebridean woolly blankets and a book. On a remote working farm with cattle and sheep — with adorable lambs frisking about — we could stroll to the deserted Saligo Bay for glorious sunsets. The family-run Kilchoman Distillery was a short distance from our cottage, the first new distillery built on Islay in more than 124 years. Unlike any other Islay maker, it’s a full-scale farm overseeing the entire barley-to-bottle process. Nearby, we wandered through Kilchoman’s parish church ruins with the sea winking in the distance. The village of Portnahaven, at the southernmost tip of the western peninsula, was a magical side-jaunt, with whitewashed homes sitting pretty on shimmering water. Tip: take your pint from An Tigh Seinnse outside to watch seals sunbathing. Clustered along the Sound of Islay, a narrow strait dramatically overlooking the Isle of Jura, we visited three distilleries: the newer Ardnahoe (2019), its giant neighbour, the Johnnie Walker

distillery Caol Ila — perched high on the bluff with views of Jura’s “paps” (hills), and our first stop, the friendly Bunnahabhain which gave us our inaugural experience being handed free welcome drams — plus a couple of “driver drams” to take home. I was stunned to learn that long before Islay became synonymous with whisky, it was the royal centre of government for the islands. Near Port Askaig, you can walk the ruins of Finlaggan, the ancient home and seat of political power of Clan MacDonald, Lord of the Isles. At Port Charlotte on Loch Indaal, we grabbed lunch at the town’s hotel restaurant before heading along the water to Bruichladdich Distillery. Take the scenic 4km pedestrian path to the distillery — also the maker of The Botanist Gin. Their classic, unpeated whisky is famously bedecked with electric turquoise branding, while their peated whisky labels lean dark and brooding, with tartan merch courtesy of Islay Woollen Mill. Across the loch on the eastern side in Bowmore, the administrative town of Islay, we were hugely disappointed to discover Bowmore Distillery — the island’s oldest — was closed on Sundays. Instead, we slipped into a back pew of Scotland’s only round church, built to ensure there weren’t corners where the devil could hide. Unsurprisingly, we did eventually find whisky — in fact, 200-plus bottles to choose from, at Islay’s most impressive whisky bar at The Lochside. The small hotel also has a superb restaurant and gave off great vibes — making me flag it for a future stay. My husband and I love a good walk in Scotland, so we were psyched to take the Three Distilleries Path starting in Port Ellen, which connects a trio of global whisky giants on the southeastern coast — Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. Clearly an effort to enhance distillery tourism and wisely keep visitors off the small, busy road, it’s about a mile (1.6km) to each distillery (9.5km round trip). It offered a memorable whisky pilgrimage, a real highlight of our visit. After parking in Port Ellen, near Islay’s second ferry terminal, we snagged some takeaway at Little Charlottes Cafe. On the town’s waterfront, there’s a large map near the trailhead describing the walk. The paved footpath runs parallel to the road, with a stone wall bordering it, although the two converge in a few instances. The first distillery on the path is Laphroaig, with a welcoming tree-filled front lawn. We were Turn to p28

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greeted by the distillery’s friendly border collie carrying a stick and ready to play catch — which we did — before finding a place in the tasting room. Back outdoors, the gently winding path — which sometimes offers sea views — led us to the doorstep of Lagavulin, my favourite. The welcome wood-panelled room was intimate, like stepping into a home, while the tasting room had a fireplace, tartan furnishings, and leather couches. Ardbeg’s speciality batches reflect sci-fi themes — echoed in the tasting room’s otherworldly decor. The property has an expansive presence, but it’s creatively shaped with guests in mind. That footprint includes Ardbeg House, their brand-new boutique hotel, named Hotel of the Year 2026 by the Times and Sunday Times and with 12 uniquely designed rooms. On the return walk to Port Ellen and our car, we hopped off the path near Lagavulin to see the crumbling Dunyvaig Castle ruin on the water — as we had with our kids long ago. Switching gears, we set our sights further up the coastal road, past the distilleries, to see the medieval 1300-year-old Kildalton Cross and the Kildalton Old Parish Church. The well-preserved Celtic ringed stone cross, carved in the late 700s, stands where it always has, exposed to the elements. On the drive to Port Ellen to catch a 7am ferry back to the mainland, we ran into the biggest traffic jam we had yet experienced on the island. The issue was sheep — dozens of sheep had wandered on to the single-track road and seemed unwilling to let us pass. Clearly, they didn’t want us to leave. I didn’t either. The writer travelled at their own expense.

Portnahaven's cottages glow at dusk below Rhinns lighthouse; left, whitewashed cottages line the shore at Port Charlotte on Loch Indaal, Isle of Islay. Photos / Visit Scotland

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Hot takes

Take Africa by the horns Tamara Hinson believes backpackers and solo travellers are missing out if they leave Africa off their itineraries.

’ve hung out on Bali’s most Instagrammed rice paddy terraces, ridden tuk-tuks around Delhi, traipsed around Angkor Wat and dodged selfie sticks at Machu Picchu. But highlights of my solo travels also include several in African countries — hiking up Egypt’s Mt Sinai, donkey-dodging explorations of Fez’s souks or bike rides through Tanzania’s Arusha National Park. And I can’t figure out why more solo travellers don’t head to Africa, or why its countries simply don’t feature on the backpacker trail – especially at a time when over-tourism is such a hot topic. Love trekking? I recommend swapping the Inca trail for Morocco’s Atlas Mountains, where I once spent a week hiking through the valleys outside of Agadir, exploring the dusty trails during the day, before squeezing in some beach time at Taghazout, a former fishing villageturned-surf spot. Togo, in West Africa, has archaeological sites (including its Unesco-listed takienta (mud tower-houses) that make Angkor Wat look somewhat plain.

Wildlife fans are spoiled for choice, and I’m not just talking about luxury safari breaks. Several years ago, my sister opted for a self-drive exploration of Zambia, which included visits to several national parks, where she signed up for a budget safari, simply erecting her tent at various designated campsites. She recalls hearing lions growling throughout the night but being able to sleep soundly because of a campfire and a local armed ranger. For stunning backdrops, consider Rwanda’s Kigali, famous for its thriving coffee shop scene. It’s also ridiculously cheap. I opted for a four-hour journey to Lake Kivu, travelling on a local bus, squeezed alongside locals who happily shared their food (at one point I ended up with a baby on my lap) and ensured I got off at the right stop. In Africa as a solo traveller I’ve enjoyed interactions which simply wouldn’t happen if I was part of a group. In Rwanda, at a former cricket pitch which had been the setting of an infamous massacre during the genocide, I got talking to a man who’d been a young child when the atrocity happened. He took the time to talk about his memories before showing me around the local cricket ground, built to replace the one

The key to exploring African countries is getting off the beaten track, which is much easier and safer to do than many people realise. Photo / Tamara Hinson

where so much blood had spilled. Some of my favourites local markets have been in the Gambia. I shunned the big-brand beach resorts lining the beach and opted for a tiny homestay staffed entirely by locals. The key to exploring African countries is getting off the beaten track, which is much easier and safer to do than many people realise. My love affair with the continent stems partly from anecdotes from my mum, who, aged 18, boarded a ferry for the multi-week journey to South Africa before working her way to Tanzania, and her new workplace – a tiny school near the base of Kilimanjaro. At one point she had to have her appendix removed at a tiny local hospital. But whenever she talks about her memories of travelling around Africa, I can’t help but wonder why its countries don’t feature on more travellers’ itineraries. I’m not suggesting that having your appendix removed at a tiny local hospital in Tanzania should feature on anyone’s bucket list, but bike rides through the country’s Arusha National Park, chilled-out beach days on the sandy shores of Rwanda’s Lake Kivu or sunrise treks up Egypt’s Mt Sinai? Sign me up.

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