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MAR/APR 2022

CANADIANPIZZAMAG.COM

BRIGHT LIGHTS,

BIG SLICE

Lamanna’s Bakery in Scarborough, Ont., draws fans with authentic Italian baking, big slices and word of mouth

P. 9 Advice for new operators P. 18 Lebanese-style: Randy’s Pizza in Halifax

P. 20 Photography tips and tricks

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March/April 2022 Vol. 28, No. 2

DEPARTMENTS 6

From the Editor Pizza innovation in Canada

Industry News Movers, shakers, legislation and news you can use

The Pizza Chef

Positioning your pizzeria

10 Tools of the Trade New products

20 Making Dough Food photography tips

ONLINE

PHOTOS: TOP: LAMANNA’S BAKERY, CENTRE: JEREMY HULL, BOTTOM: CANADIAN PIZZA

Cross-Canada Virtual Pizza Tour: Matador Pizza & Steakhouse, Calgary

CONTENTS COVER STORY

Join editor Colleen Cross as she chats with Jason Seitanidis of Matador Pizza & Steakhouse, a successful pizzeria, steakhouse and lounge owned and operated by Jason and managing partner Mark Downey since 2011. In this video you will learn about bestsellers on the menu, Calgary Greek pizza, current challenges and take a tour! Visit canadianpizzamag.com

11 Bright lights, Big Slice

CANADIAN PIZZA · March/April 2022

14 Pizza three ways Neapolitan, Sicilian and Roma pizza styles have timeless appeal By Andrew Hind

18 East Coast Lebanese pizza Randy’s Pizza keeps the Farid family tradition alive in the Halifax area By Jeremy Hull

ON THE COVER Lamanna’s Bakery original Big Slice is just over two feet long and about 18 inches wide and covered in pepperoni. Over the years the well-respected traditional Toronto bakery and pizzeria has created many variations on the theme. See page 11.

Lamanna’s Bakery in Scarborough, Ont., draws fans with authentic Italian baking, big slices and great word of mouth By Colleen Cross

22 Pizza Expo highlights That’s right, we’re back from Las Vegas with a fresh take on trends and takeaways to help your pizzeria grow and profit By Colleen Cross

CanadianPizzaMag.com

FROM THE EDITOR BY COLLEEN CROSS

March/April 2022, Vol. 28, No. 2

Pizza innovation in Canada

izza shows are back! After two years of uncertainty, stress and upheaval, operators seem to have an appetite for networking, learning and seeing products first hand. Vegas Expo delivered another stellar event aimed at inspiring operators and chefs and adding to your bottom line. After two years of pandemic uncertainty and challenges, organizers provided exciting pizza-industry-specific education sessions, competitions, demonstrations and products. Canadian Pizza attended Expo for the first time in three years in March. Always a jampacked learning experience, it was extra-special this year. Whether it was a sense of relief or of gratitude, advertising manager Stephanie Jewell and I noiced a renewed energy as pizzeria operators got back to the business of networking, discovering trends, methods and products, and most of all working on their businesses. Several Canadians stopped by our booth to tell us what they’d seen around the show – for example, keto chicken crusts (see page 10). We met up with Alimo’s Pizza of Slave Lake, Alta., Power Pizza and Cowabunga Pizza, both of Hamilton, Ont., and Calabria Market and Wine Store in Winnipeg. Yours truly had the honour of helping judge the Best of the Best (Blind Box) category featuring four former Pizza Makers of the Year. It was a learning experience among longtime judges, a thrill and exposure to some of the finest, most creative pizza I’ve ever eaten.

PHOTO: CANADIAN PIZZA

Two Canadian Pizza Summits! Innovation in Canada gets a big boost this year as the Canadian Pizza Summit and Chef of the Year Competitions head west! In addition to our Pizza Summit East in Toronto, Ont., on Oct. 24, at Faema Canada, we are proud to bring you Pizza Summit West in Burnaby, B.C., at Snow Cap Enterprises on June 6! We’ll now have a Summit West in June and Summit East in October, each offering

EDITOR Colleen Cross ccross@annexbusinessmedia.com 519-429-5227 SALES MANAGER Stephanie Jewell sjewell@annexbusinessmedia.com 705-826-2254

Salar Madadi, owner of Maipai pizza and tiki in Hamilton, Ont., was happy with how his Mala Honey Pie turned out in the Pan division.

a chance to win a trip to compete at the Las Vegas Pizza Expo in 2023! That means pizza chefs can compete in either British Columbia or Ontario. It also means there will be two Chefs of the Year and two opportunities to network with other operators and research trends! Pizza has never been more popular than it is today, but just how did this simple food become such a cultural phenomenon, capturing not just the hearts and stomachs of Italians, but also folks around the globe? Join the well-respected head chef and co-author of Modernist Pizza Francisco Migoya at Pizza Summit West for a talk – “Pizza: From Past to Present” – on how pizza became one of the world’s most popular foods, and learn some techniques developed while writing the books that you can use to improve and innovate your pizzas today! We at Canadian Pizza can’t wait to meet chefs, operators and their staff and to check in on their businesses and see what signature pizzas they will present at this one-of-a-kind Canadian industry event. Register now at canadianpizzamag.com/pizzashow! See details on pages 16 and 17. However you reconnect and recharge your pizzeria in 2022, we want to know all about it. Come to our Summits, call, text, email or connect on social media. Share your challenges, your wins and keep your pizza business up to date. | CP

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canadian_pizza_magazine March/April 2022 · CANADIAN PIZZA

INDUSTRY NEWS

EXPANSION

TOP LEFT PHOTO: BMPP

TOP RIGHT PHOTO: MODERNIST PIZZA

ILLUSTRATION BY BRIAN FRAY

Big Mama’s & Papa’s Pizzeria expands to Canada Big Mama’s & Papa’s Pizzeria, a U.S.-based restaurant chain operator and franchisor, has made a master franchise deal with Canadian company The Patel Group to open 52 franchise locations in Ontario, with at least two locations planned for 2022. The deal was brokered between Ray Perry, Big Mamas & Papas Franchising, LLC president and chief operating officer, and Sam Wadera, a restaurant veteran and managing partner of The Patel Group, who will also be leading BMPP’s development in Ontario. Big Mama’s & Papa’s Pizzeria is an a delivery, carryout and dine-in Italian food concept that features a variety of menu items including its signature creation: The Giant Sicilian, a 54” x 54” masterpiece that holds the Guinness World Record for the World’s Largest Deliverable Pizza and feeds 40-60 people, the company said in a news release. Its menu provides alternatives such as gluten-free and cauliflower pizza crusts, and options for vegan cheese and vegan toppings, Egg Gondola CANADIAN PIZZA · March/April 2022

Pizza, build-your-own pizza combinations, calzones, pastas, salads, buffalo wings, craft beers and wines. This year, Big Mama’s & Papa’s plans to launch a catering menu suited for families, businesses and organizations. BMPP also is known for its other franchise opportunities include area development programs, from three to 15 restaurants, and master franchise agreements providing exclusive city, country, and state territory development rights.

ON THE WEB Pizzeria with nightly discotheque opens in Toronto; Premium Holdings acquires B.C.’s Rocky Mountain Flatbread; General Assembly Pizza announces retail expansion in Western Canada | FOR MORE PIZZA NEWS, check out our website, canadianpizzamag.com

We’ll now have a Summit West in June and Summit East in October, each offering a chance to win a trip to compete at the Vegas Pizza Expo in 2023! That means pizza chefs can compete in either British Columbia or Ontario. It also means there will be two Chefs of the Year and two opportunities to network with other operators and research trends! Pizza has never been more popular than it is today, but just how did this simple food become such a cultural phenomenon? Join head chef and co-author of Modernist Pizza Francisco Migoya for a lively talk – “Pizza: From Past to Present” – on how pizza became one of the world’s most popular foods, and learn some techniques developed

Chef Francisco Migoya.

while writing the books that you can use to improve and innovate your pizzas today! We at Canadian Pizza can’t wait to meet chefs, operators and their staff and to see what signature pizzas they will present at this one-of-a-kind Canadian industry event. Register now at canadianpizzamag.com/pizzashow!

CANADIAN PIZZA EVENT

Summit and chef competitions expand westward!

The Canadian Pizza Summit and Chef of the Year Competitions are heading west in 2022! In addition to our Pizza Summit East in Toronto, Ont., on Oct. 24, at Faema Canada, we are proud to bring you Pizza Summit West in Burnaby, B.C., at Snow Cap Enterprises on June 6! CanadianPizzaMag.com

PIZZA DOUGH RESEARCH

Scientists in Italy develop yeast-free pizza dough

FLOUR

Italian flour companies launch campaign to promote organic flours The Italian Association of Millers has launched an ambitious initiative to promote exports of organic soft wheat and durum wheat flour and semolina to Canada and the U.S. and to raise awareness of their high quality. “Pure Flour from Europe: Your Organic and Sustainable Choice!” is a campaign co-funded by the European Commission. The Pure Flour from Europe campaign will last three years and include consumer and trade events with product demonstrations led by chefs featuring pizza, pasta, pastries and breads. There will also be social media and advertising campaigns and participation in important trade shows targeting the grocery, food-service and food manufacturing sectors. The initiative will include an educational tour of millers of organic flours and semolina in Italy. “We see great opportunity in North America to grow exports of organic soft wheat flour and 8

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durum semolina from Italy. More than ever before, home cooks and chefs are looking for premium ingredients that are healthy, nutritious and grown without synthetic fertilizers. They also want to respect the environment,” said Emilio Ferrari, president of ITALMOPA, which was established in 1958 and has more than 80 flour companies from across Italy. The U.S. and Canada are some of the countries with the highest demand for organic products, according to ITALMOPA, but statistics on organic flour imports are hard to come by and are now viewed as relatively low. The goal is to increase exports by close to 300 per cent compared to 2020 for Canada and the U.S, and to boost knowledge and awareness of the products among consumers in the two countries by at least 20 per cent. The campaign will focus on Quebec, Ontario and British Columbia in Canada, and five large urban markets in the U.S.: Los Angeles, Seattle, Chicago, Dallas and New York. All have high organic food consumption and demographics to support the often-higher prices of organic flours compared with conventional flours, according to ITALMOPA.

Researchers from the University of Naples Federico II have developed a method to leaven pizza dough without yeast. In typical breads, yeast produces bubbles via a biochemical process, causing dough to rise and develop into light, airy, and tasty treats. Without that yeast, it is difficult to make morsels with the same characteristic taste and texture. The perfect, yeast-free pizza, as such a food, presents an important challenge for bakers and yeast-intolerant crust enthusiasts across the globe. In Physics of Fluids, by American Institute of Physics Publishing, researchers from the University of Naples Federico II have developed a method to leaven pizza dough without yeast. The team, which included its very own professional pizza maker/graduate student, prepared the dough by mixing water, flour, and salt and placing it in a hot autoclave, an industrial device designed to raise temperature and pressure. From there, the process is like the one used to produce carbonation in soda. Gas is dissolved into the dough at high pressure, and bubbles form in the dough as pressure is released during baking. In comparison to other scientific experiments, the pressures involved were mild. They can be obtained by a typical at-home coffee maker. However, the scientists-turned-bakers had to be cautious with the pressure release. Compared to soda, pizza dough does not respond as nicely to an abrupt change in pressure.

The authors evaluated their dough using rheology, which measures the flow and deformation of a material. Fine-tuning the pressure release through rheological analysis made it possible to gently inflate bubbles to the desired extent. After many unofficial taste tests, the researchers are purchasing a larger, food-grade autoclave that will make full-sized pizzas in future experiments. They hope to see their idea used in pizza shops. As a person with a yeast allergy, Di Maio is also excited about applications for other leavened products like bread, cakes and snacks. The article “Rheology-driven design of pizza gas foaming” can be accessed at https://aip.scitation.org/doi/ full/10.1063/5.0081038. NUTRITION WEBSITE

Whataboutwheat.ca new resource for Canadian wheat A new resource for up-to-date, science-based wheat nutrition information provides answers to questions about fibre, gut health and healthy grains. “What About Wheat?” is a campaign and website developed for dietitians and consumers by the Canadian Wheat Nutrition Initiative to showcase Canadian wheat as part of a healthy diet. The educational campaign is focused on answers to common questions about wheat nutrition and the role of wheat-based foods in healthy eating. WhatAboutWheat.ca will be continually updated with wheat nutrition research findings and resources such as handouts and videos. March/April 2022 · CANADIAN PIZZA

PHOTO: ITALMOPA

INDUSTRY NEWS

THE PIZZA CHEF BY DIANA CLINE

Diana Cline is an award-winning pizza chef, a partner with Diana’s Cucina & Lounge in Winnipeg. In addition to creating award-winning recipes, Diana is a consultant to other pizzeria owner/operators in menu development, creating operational systems and marketing to help operators grow their business strategically. Contact her at diana@dianascucinaandlounge.com.

Positioning your pizzeria: Advice for new operators

PHOTO: © PBOMBAERT / ADOBE STOCK

here do you fit into the marketplace? This topic requires careful thought because it’s as important as the name you choose for your pizzeria. With any given product or service there are levels of quality and price: low, middle and top. Think of four car manufacturers and you will also immediately understand what I mean by this. Now think of four pizza places and you’ll likely see that this is especially pronounced in the pizza industry, with a proliferation of low-end “2 for 1” and $5 pizzas. Ideally, this is something you need to consider before you open your doors. Are you going to compete in the lowend market, or the middle or the top? Many new operators get into the business thinking they can make a better pizza than the chains and offer it at a lower price. Filling the first criteria isn’t that difficult, but doing it for less is impossible. You cannot sell premium-quality ingredients at a low price; the math simply doesn’t support this model. New operators rarely understand food costs, recipe mapping and the high costs of labour this industry demands. And they don’t understand this until they run out of money and have to close their doors. I can’t begin to count the number of independents who have made this mistake and ended up losing their shirts. There are even veteran independents who don’t know their numbers: a few years ago I worked with one client whose yearly sales exceeded $1.8 million but who didn’t make a dime in profit. His costs were out of control, mainly because he’d never figured out what they were or implemented systems to keep on top of them. These things are very important in order to be profitable from the start. But I digress. Positioning your pizzeria to the CANADIAN PIZZA · March/April 2022

The big question is still “Why are you selling what you’re selling and why do you want to sell to the market you’ve chosen?”

right market will help separate you from the “me too” clones and attract those ideal clients to you. Many operators overlook this aspect to the business of pizza. I always ask a new consulting client who their ideal customer is, and/or to describe a few commonalities of their current best customers. The most common answer to the first question is “everyone.” This is a misconception. Assuming that everyone likes pizza and, therefore, everyone is your customer is a common mistake. The drunk guy who calls at 2:22 a.m. to order a pizza is a very different customer than the executive family man who orders for pickup at 5:45 p.m. on his way home from work. They have different tastes, different expectations. Clearly everyone is not your customer. Which one you position your pizzeria to cater to will determine everything from your price point to your level of quality of pizza to your hours of operation. Along those same lines, some operators decide they’d like to go after a target market of a lunch crowd. Some decide they want to capture a younger crowd: 18- to 24-year-olds. With every consult, I always ask why: why

do you want to go after that particular market? The answer is usually quite telling. Sometimes it’s because they are looking at increasing sales during slower times. Every pizzeria has its peak periods, and very few look to increase sales at those times. Rather, they look for efficiencies to improve their make and bake times and to reduce wait times. Some operators look to both grow sales during less busy periods and cater to a younger market in order to refresh and reinvigorate a brand. Others want to cross into another territory, for example, when a big chain known for burgers decides to add pizzas or subs. They’re interested in gaining a share of a market that is dominated by another large food brand. Whichever is the case, when it comes down to it, the big question is still “Why are you selling what you’re selling and why do you want to sell to the market you’ve chosen?” This requires some research of the target market, and the more details you can gather, the more accurately oriented a meal you can create. Maybe you have an idea to launch a hot sandwich for lunch. You have an amazing chef create a delicious recipe with a bonus of using many existing ingredients already in stock and you have a full breakdown of the menu item’s food cost. Next, you get some marketing pieces done up with a campaign created to promote your new menu item, and then it’s off to the races. But it’s only after you run a fullon launch of the new menu item that you discover it’s not a hot seller. So, after the fact, you learn that your target market – no matter how delicious said menu item is – just doesn’t want to eat THAT at that time of the day. Those kinds of details are important and conducting that type of research ahead of creating is extremely important. This is where a seasoned veteran pizza chef can help guide you, but only if you’re willing to seek one out and learn from them. | CP CanadianPizzaMag.com

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

PANS

Innovative pan born out of operator feedback LloydPans has developed an innovative deep-dish pan based on what the company was seeing in the pizza market. Operators were creating DIY pans by removing twothirds of the pan side in order to let the outside edge of their pizza crust bake. The pans do not require seasoning. Just hand wash and buff with oil or another release agent. lloydpans.com

PORTIONING

NSF-approved tools help portion pizza with precision Nuova Vita Corporation has developed the Portion PadL, Portion PeeL and several tools to help pizza chefs portion with precision. The patented and patent pending Portion PadL is a cutting board and portioning guide used for cutting pizzas into equal slices. Ideal for pizza by-the-slice applications, it is custom made to your pizza size and slice applications. 10

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Both rocker and roller knives can be used to cut pizzas using the Portion PadL, which is made from is an NSF-approved composition material. According to the company, this equal-slice pizza cutting board reduces food waste, increases profits and improves kitchen efficiencies. Simple to use and easy to clean, it is designed to allow new employee to cut pizzas into equal slices their very first time. The company also has developed a Portion PeeL featuring laser-etched measuring circles that are approved by health departments. portionpadl.com

ALTERNATIVE CRUSTS

Chicken crusts high in protein and gluten-free Zero Carb Lyfe got operators’ attention with its ready-made crust made with chicken, olive oil, salt, spices using the company’s proprietary manufacturing process. Each crust has 200 calories and 37 grams of protein. The crust is keto-friendly, diabetic-friendly, and gluten free. It can be used to as a flatbread, wrap, quesadilla, panini or as garlic chips for serving dips. They sell in packs of six frozen crusts, eight inches in diameter. They require six to eight minutes of baking at 450 F.

When it comes to new ingredients, equipment and services, Canadian Pizza keeps you in the know. For more on new products for the pizza industry, check out our website, canadianpizzamag.com

menu to upsell your guests. The products are free of dairy, soy and gluten. They come in New York style, key lime, strawberry and chocolate. daiyafoods.com

SUSTAINABLE PACKAGINGS

Sustainable packaging from Ultra Green Ultra Green had a selection of their many sustainable trays, pizza pans, boxes and other packaging products at Pizza Expo. One such product is the Take ‘N’ Bake bamboo pizza pan. It is available in five sizes: eight, 10, 12, 14 and 16 inches. Its round shape takes up less space and it is oven-safe up to 425 F. It is compostable, recyclable and microwaveable. The company, which offers tamper-proof packaging, sells products in Canada through On Green Go. ultragreenpackaging.com ongreengo.com

ONLINE PAYMENT

zerocarblyfe.com

DESSERTS

Ready-made Cheezecakes line offers healthier upsell Daiya has plant-based Cheezecakes you can add to your in-house

Lightspeed Restaurant integrated payments available in Canada Lightspeed’s hospitality commerce and POS platform,

Lightspeed Restaurant, is now available to Canadian pizzeria and restaurant operators with an integrated payments and order management features. The platform allows restaurateurs to operate across in-person dining, curbside pickups, deliveries, multiple ordering services, selling meals and merchandise through a single commerce platform. Lightspeed Commerce recently reported that U.S.-based hospitality customers outperformed their peers, with samestore gross transaction volume increasing 52 per cent year over year in 2021 versus the industry average sales growth of 31 per cent for the same period. lightspeedhq.com

DELIVERY

Temperaturecontrolled DeliBox Dometic has developed a temperature-controlled delivery box to help meet customer demand for food delivered at the right temperature. DeliBox is designed to provide restaurants, third-party platforms and ghost kitchens with a reliable product that preserves the quality and temperature of food throughout the delivery process. It has separate compartments, two dedicated temperature zones, capacity for multiple orders and an air purification system to ensure an interior atmosphere devoid of lingering odours. dometic.com/delibox March/April 2022 · CANADIAN PIZZA

COVER STORY

BRIGHT LIGHTS, BIG SLICES Lamanna’s Bakery in Scarborough, Ont., draws fans with authentic Italian baking, big slices and consistently great word of mouth. BY COLLEEN CROSS

PHOTO: LAMANNA’S BAKERY

t Lamanna’s Bakery the Big Slice is a Big Deal. The original Big Slice is just over two feet long and about 18 inches wide and covered in pepperoni. Over the years the bakery has created many variations on the theme by loading their Big Slice with sweet toppings that are delicious in their own right, including pink-iced (Simpsons) doughnuts, churros, custard tarts, gelato and torrone (almond nougat), pumpkin pie slices, birthday cake slices (complete with lit candles). These and about 1,500 other eye-catching, drool-inducing, overthe-top images are getting noticed by lovers of pizza and baked goods from Toronto and well beyond. Lamanna’s Bakery may be known for its photogenic Big Slices, but it is a well-respected authentic Italian family bakery with a tight connection to

CANADIAN PIZZA · March/April 2022

Social media, especially Instagram and more recently TikTok, helped Lamanna’s Bakery reach a wider audience. .

its Scarborough community of Rouge Hill and deep roots in Italy. After separate, decades-long careers in baking starting in Italy and ending in Toronto, husband-and-wife team Peter and Rosa Lamanna opened their own bakery in 2004. Among other positions and projects, Peter worked at Canada Bread and Rosa had run a popular wedding cakes business for many years. Petercame from Monteleone di Puglia in and Rosa from Ragusa, Sicily, to make their home in Toronto in the 1950s. The original idea was to open a small boutique bakery to showcase favourite family recipes, says David Lamanna, the youngest of three sons who work in the business with their parents. “My grandparents had a vineyard in Sicily,” Lamanna says. “Generations of recipes accumulated. My brothers and I would go to the vine-

yard, and we were inspired to see how they ran the business. My grandfather ran the business very personally and, when we put our name on the door of our bakery, we didn’t know it at the time but that’s what we were doing. Everything we do is an extension of us. We took that personally.” “They had a wood-fired oven and a stone oven, and my grandmother would make amazing pizzas, drying her own tomatoes. A lot of planning and effort went into every meal. It was a joyous experience. We wanted to carry that on.” David’s oldest brother Joe opened the bakery with his parents, then Lorenzo joined, and finally, because it got so busy, David came on board. The three brothers brought different strengths to their roles. “We brought a lot of that business side to the bakery. I worked in sales and a lot of the things I learned I could apply to the bakery. We all apprenticed with my parents. Joe’s focus is on scratch-made gelato and the coffee side of the business. Lorenzo focuses on the baking. He has a natural talent for this,” Lamanna says. Of working together: “My brothCanadianPizzaMag.com

COVER STORY

Lamanna’s Bakery is famous for its striking photos of savoury and sweet treats, such as cannoli.

The Big Slice Lorenzo is the one behind the dessert-topped slices and the Big Slice. “He thought it was a fun idea. The buttercream base was fantastic and we tried it with different toppings – doughnuts, churros. Chocolate bases are good – Nutella is a natural fit). At first it was just a fun distraction, a private joke. Social media, especially Instagram and more recently TikTok, helped it to reach a wider audience. “We first promoted the idea by posting a photo of Joe taking a bite of the Big Slice pepperoni pizza. That’s when we exposed ourselves to the public. People didn’t know if we were joking. It’s really fun – you can’t take it too seriously. People come in as a group and order a Big Slice and have

We’ve always explored the idea of sweet and savoury with desserts. 12

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this challenge to see if they can finish it.” They had to custom-design a specific box size to fit the large size. “I thought, ‘How do we package this?’ Lamanna says. “In the beginning we found the biggest pizza boxes we could. That wasn’t working, so then we had specific bigslice boxes made. They are a little over two feet long and about 18 inches wide.

Marketing and branding The bakery is located in the east end of Toronto in Rouge Hill near the border of Pickering and Scarborough. “Our customer base is real diverse,” he says. “The same is true of our employees. I would say the main group is families – it’s a suburban neighbourhood.” “Most of our marketing is social media. However, word of mouth number 1 focus. In-store sampling is a good way to introduce new products. Recently, when they decided to rebrand, they shot for the moon and reached out to a New York City designer they admired, Jon Contino. “We like him because he’s edgy. We reached out. He was so taken aback by what we do. He said, ‘I have to be part of this.’ We’ve explored other designers and ideas, but nothing worked until Jon came along. The look is edgy but true to ourselves.” He describes the look: “Colours were important to us – red, gold, chocolate. The main brand was the mountain lion – a tribute to Monteleone (which literally means lion on a mountain). It’s our nod to where our brand came from: family. We didn’t want something too cutesy. That’s not for us.” Their pizza boxes, featuring a stylized lion’s face, are a great example of the new branding. David Lamanna does most of the photography, but he seeks out help from staff. “Usually if I find that one of the employees has a natural ability, I’ll kind of take them under my wing. I use an iPhone sometimes, but I’ve got a good camMarch/April 2022 · CANADIAN PIZZA

PHOTO: LAMANNA’S BAKERY

ers are both really creative. Joe has a really strong sense of retail. Lorenzo’s outrageous with his creative thinking. I have a serious business side. When we brainstorm come up with ideas it’s fun to see the reaction before we get to a new product.” They found themselves working together and ended up being closer. “I feel blessed we could do that,” David says. In the beginning just the five of them. Then the bakery took off – this was even before the Big Slice and Food Network, Lamanna says. Says Lamanna, “It’s interesting that we had our hands on every single piece of product. Now we have a staff of about 30 people [slightly lower than their pre-COVID numbers]. Now a lot of what we do is manage what other people do. You think you’ll always be hands-on but things change.” Peter and Rosa are retired but still very involved in the business, he says. They are the first to come and the last to leave. “My dad does the doughs and bases every night from scratch,” Lamanna says. “Their presence really brings the bakery together. It’s kind of been a real joy working with them. Most people don’t get to do that.” Joe, Lorenzo and David have all completed courses in baking, but David believes “there is nothing like learning from someone who has that much experience on a daily basis.” Lamanna’s bakery and pizza business have grown in tandem. Their staples have been baked goods, pizza, gelato, hot foods, coffee and the deli. “Bakery and pizza I think were always the biggest,” he says. “We had to let go of deli in order to expand the pizza business. We’ve always explored the idea of sweet and savoury with desserts. For example, blueberry on focaccia just seemed normal to us.”

COVER STORY

era and equipment. Lighting is most important thing for photography. We’re lucky we have a great space for that.” The store has been renovated three times – the latest an expansion next door to grow the pizza side of the business. The last reno was by Commute, a Toronto company that designs nightclubs and other business but had not designed a bakery. As with Jon Contino, the connection with principal designer Hamid Samad was instant. “He said that was the first time anyone’s ever brought their parents to a meeting,” Lamanna says with a chuckle. “Everyone appreciates the family dynamics.” Samad transformed the bakery creating a restaurant-style, open-market vibe. “I think that is another part of branding who we are and bringing the bakery up to date.” Lamanna believes developing your branding should be given proper time and attention: “It’s important to invest in it, and not just make it an afterthought. Put some effort into presenting your best self so people can appreciate your brand. You want to stand out – it’s easy just to blend in. “Having a call to action is pretty huge on social media. Branding comes from consistency that’s where you start to evolve into a brand. Listening to customers, modifying along the way – not being so egotistical that you won’t change. Have fun with it – and others will have fun with it. “Don’t underestimate the power of branding – even down to that coffee cup on the subway. I don’t think people really think about that, they just think about baking a pie. Branding is expensive, so you really have to tailor your branding to one product that is special. And look for natural collaborations. “At the end of the day, it goes back to the customer and offering something you really believe in. I want people to continue to tell their friends about us.”

has 984 followers and their Instagram has a whopping 151,000 followers after 1,539 posts. A post from June 2021 asking for customer feedback on a chocolate-treat-covered Big Slice is a good example of how to interact with followers: “CONTEST! Help us name this new pizza concept right out of Sunday’s test kitchen! If your name is chosen first you can win this pizza! Also let us know if we should add this to the menu! #lamannas #lamannabakery” When John Catucci came to film an episode of his Food Network TV show Big Food Bucket List! they served him poutine-topped Big Slice and a Great Canadian loaded with bacon, pancakes, maple syrup and butter pats. Clearly delighted, Catucci chats with customers as they share a Big Slice and describe what they like about Lamanna’s pizza. That video has been viewed more than 13,000 times. The Lamannas have had fun with their Big Slice, appearing on Good Morning America and Toronto’s Cityline TV shows and collaborating memorably with Warner Brothers by branding a box for them with their Godzilla Vs. Kong logo. “We’ve always been a traditional Italian bakery with traditional recipes,” Lamanna says. “We don’t take ourselves too seriously and we like doing outrageous things. As long as we’re committed to quality, I think it’s OK.” | CP

CUP AND CHAR T HE Y CAN’ T R E S I S T

Bestsellers Bakery bestsellers are traditional pastries such as lobster tails, sfoglia, cannoli and napoleons. On the savoury side, it’s their lasagna and pizzas. There are many pizza options – margherita, quattro stagioni, caprese, grilled cheese and Hawaiian) among them – but the most popular are pepperoni, cacio e pepe. Lamanna describes their crust as a thicker, Sicilian style of pizza. They use two old recipes. The first is from a pizzeria operator in Toronto who consulted with them in the 1970s and which they modified to suit their pizza sizes. The second is their grandmother’s recipe, which they modified to make a big batch recipe. “We’re actually experimenting with other styles and once we expand the pizza side we’ll see which ones work best for clients,” Lamanna adds.

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PIZZA STYLES

Andrew Hind is a freelance writer from Bradford, Ont., specializing in food, history and travel. He is the author of 25 books and the proud father of one.

PIZZA THREE WAYS Neapolitan, Sicilian and Roma pizza styles have timeless appeal BY ANDREW HIND

here was a time when pizza was predictable – Italian red sauce, cheese, pepperoni, and perhaps a few other toppings like mushrooms and peppers. Times have changed. Over the last few decades, the varieties of pizza have expanded greatly – new offerings created by talented, forward-thinking chefs, sure, but also, perhaps more importantly, traditional regional styles gaining greater exposure on the world stage. Many chefs would argue Italian traditional is best. After all, there is a reason why pizza is considered a timeless favourite.

Neapolitan pizza Neapolitan Pizza is the oldest and most traditional style of pizza. Flatbreads have existed in Italy since the days of the Roman Empire, but pizza as we know it today (dough topped with tomatoes and cheese) was invented in the 1700s. Naples, at the time, was exceedingly poor. The impoverished masses needed an inexpensive food that could be eaten quickly. Pizza – flatbread with toppings – fit the bill. There are two types of Neapolitan pizza: Marinara and Margherita. Tomatoes were brought to Europe in the 16th century by explorers returning from South America. A cen14

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tury later, poor peasants began to top their flatbread with them in the late 18th century. This was Marinara pizza, which received its name because it was traditionally prepared by “la marinara” (a seaman’s wife) for her husband when he returned from fishing trips in the Bay of Naples. But as it isn’t topped with cheese, Marinara is not truly considered a modern pizza. That honour falls to Pizza Margherita. Baker Raffaele Esposito is generally credited with creating Margherita pizza. In 1889, King Umberto I and Queen Margherita visited Naples. Esposito baked them a pizza whose colours mirrored those of the Italian flag: red (tomatoes), white (mozzarella), and green (basil leaves). He named it in honour of his queen. This is what is now known as the classic Neapolitan pizza. “The true Neapolitan Pizza must be soft, fragrant, easily foldable like a booklet. The cornice should be 1-2 cm thick, well-baked but not burned, with a total diameter not exceeding 35 cm,” explains Antonio Pace, president of Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN), an organization founded in 1984 to certify pizzerias that use the proper artisan traditions of authentic Neapolitan pizza. Neapolitan Pizza is prepared with simple and fresh ingredients: raw tomatoes, fresh mozzarella cheese,

FEATURES OF NEAPOLITAN PIZZA: Cornice 1-2 cm thick, well-baked but not burned Total diameter not to exceed 35 cm Simple and fresh ingredients: raw tomatoes, fresh mozzarella cheese, fresh basil and olive oil Typically has more sauce than cheese

fresh basil and olive oil. No fancy toppings. Typically, there is more sauce than cheese. Neapolitan pizzas are also cooked at very high temperatures (800 F to 900 F) for no more than 90 seconds. Maintaining the heritage and standards of Neapolitan Pizza is the purview of AVPN. “We promote and protect, in Italy and around the world, the true Neapolitan pizza, produced and processed according to the ancient Neapolitan traditions and customs. For over thirty years we’ve been at the forefront in the defense of pizzerias, pizza makers and products in the supply chain linked to this great excellence of Italy’s gastronomic traditions.” To receive AVPN certification, restaurants must officially apply and meet numerous requirements regarding ingredients and preparation, from leavening to seasoning to cooking. Currently, there are 920 AVPN-certified pizzerias in 50 nations. “Neapolitan pizza remains popular because of its simplicity,” Pace says. “The Neapolitan Pizza was born as a poor product and the simplicity of flavours, scents and colours is considered the secret of its success worldwide. In 2017, UNESCO recognized the art of Neapolitan Pizzaiuolo as an intangible heritage of humanity.”

Sicilian pizza Ultra-thick, square, topped with sauce and cheese – Sicilian pizza is as distinctive as it is flavourful. Sicilian pizza has two variations: the kind that originated in Sicily and the version that evolved in New York in the 20th century. The original, traditional version hails from Palermo and is called sfincione, which translates as “thick sponge.” Sicilian pizza has a fluffy, spongy dough consisting of a mixture of flour, water, yeast and olive oil. The crust is topped with a meatless sauce made from tomatoes, onions March/April 2022 · CANADIAN PIZZA

The colours of Margherita pizza mirror those of the Italian flag: red (tomatoes), white (mozzarella), and green (basil leaves).

PHOTO: © PAOLO / ADOBE STOCK

sauteed in olive oil, chopped anchovies, oregano and crushed red pepper. It’s then covered with breadcrumbs and a grating of hard caciocavallo cheese. The pizza is then baked in a square tray where the spongy dough soaks up the olive oil at the bottom of the pan and creates a crispy, charred bottom, while the middle remains spongy and soft. Traditional sfincione does not use mozzarella because cows were a rarity in Sicily; most of the milk instead came from goats. Evolving from focaccia, sfincione was traditionally served on holidays (Dec. 7, the eve of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, Christmas Eve, New Year’s Eve, and Good Friday), but by the mid-19th century had become a year-round food item. Sicilian-style pizza was brought to the United States by Sicilian immigrants, where it evolved once again. Most notably, mozzarella became a popular addition thanks to the availability of cow milk ¬– New York-style Pizza.

The original version of Sicilian pizza hails from Palermo and is called sfincione, which translates as ‘thick sponge.’ CANADIAN PIZZA · March/April 2022

Roma pizza The youngest of Italy’s regional pizza varieties, Roma pizza is less than half a century old, emerging in Rome in the 1960s. It eventually spread beyond Rome so that today it is the most popular style of pizza in Italy. And, as Rome is among the most visited tourist destinations in Italy, the popularity of Roma pizza quickly spread to North America as well. Also known as pizza al taglio – which in Italian means “pizza by the slice” – Roma pizza is distinctive because of its signature crust. “This isn’t a fast-food pizza. You take your time to make something special, great tasting and great for you, yet also simple,” explains Michele Casale, owner of Redi Pizza in Montreal, specializing in Roma pizza. “The dough is left to rest in the refrigerator for at least 72 hours to allow it to mature. Sitting longer burns sugar and proteins.” By day 3, the dough will develop large air bubbles, which are the secret to the distinctive light and airy Roma-style pizza crust. It’s then laid out into distinctive square pans for preparation and baking. Roma pizza can be topped with any garnish. “Because the dough is so delicious, an amazing foundation, you can top it with anything and it will still taste great,” Casale says. “The dough is also easy to digest and, because it can absorb a lot of water, you can warm it up the next day and it’s still soft and flavourful.” The square pizza has traditionally been sold by the slice at streetside counters throughout Rome. But the distinctive soft, airy crust is not easy to cut using chef’s knives or traditional pizza cutters. Special pizza scizzas – unique scissors with a curved blade – are used instead. These scizzas slice the pizza from above which prevents the dough from compressing while also keeping toppings in place. | CP CanadianPizzaMag.com

PROFILE

Jeremy Hull is a freelance writer from Halifax, N.S., who has worked extensively at independent pizzerias in Toronto and in the food and beverage industry.

EAST COAST LEBANESE PIZZA Randy’s Pizza keeps the Farid family tradition alive in the Halifax area BY JEREMY HULL

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Mimo and Walid Farid represent two generations of Lebanese influenced pizza in the Halifax area. Mimo, Ziad and Randy Farid run multiple locations of the pizza shop started by their parents Walid and Safria Farid in 1987.

night became the early morning. “I think, why did I come to Canada?” He laughs. When war came to Lebanon, he and Safria didn’t have a choice. They weren’t entrepreneurs or restaurateurs. Walid was a teacher in Lebanon. They made a lot of mistakes. Their first business was a small grocery store. “It’s an easy business to run in spite of language,” says Walid, an adept storyteller who understands English well, but retains a thick accent after 40 years.

Small stores like his first business began to struggle when big grocery chains extended their hours and opened seven days a week. The Farids were survivors, but their business was buckling. “I would leave my wife in the store, and the kids sleeping under the counter, while I went out working so I could pay the bills,” Farid says. He found an answer when someone from his community opened a pizzeria. It was apparent that the margins were better in the March/April 2022 · CANADIAN PIZZA

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here is no great secret to Walid Farid’s success, even if his story is miraculous. “You have to work hard with any business,” says the owner of Randy’s Pizza in Halifax. “You go from nine o’clock in the morning to 12 o’clock at night, seven days a week.” Farid follows only one rule: “You have to look after your customers.” He wears a big smile when he tells stories. It’s the kind of smile you earn. “The customer is always right, even when they are wrong.” Walid and his wife Safria had nothing when they immigrated to Canada. They made a lot of mistakes turning Randy’s Pizza into the thriving business it is today. “After a while it was worth it, but it was very hard,” he says. Walid arrived in Nova Scotia during a wave of immigration after the onset of the Lebanese Civil War in 1982. Randy’s Pizza opened its doors in 1987. Walid Farid and his contemporaries were the pioneers whose cultural influence on food and business would spread through every sector of the Maritimes. It all started from the humblest of beginnings. When he landed in Halifax, Walid washed dishes until the late

Randy’s Donair is served on warm pita bread with sauce, the meat is cut thin and served hot with tomatoes and onions.

pizza business than they were in the grocery business. He borrowed money wherever he could to open Randy’s. The gamble paid off. The Farid family has been selling pizza in Halifax for 35 years. Randy’s is still family owned and operated. Son Mimo says that makes all the difference. “It’s the effort.” Mimo and his brothers, Ziad and Randy, are proud of their parents’ tradition and sacrifice. They use the same recipe their father and mother used in 1987. Despite their influence over a generation of Maritime palates, Walid doesn’t believe there is such a thing as Lebanese-style pizza. “We’re working on it,” he says with a laugh. “We do a better job than the people who were here. We’re doing good.” Despite their success, Walid isn’t sure he’d get into the pizza business today. “There were only four or five pizza restaurants in the city in 1987.” It’s more competitive today. Cheaper, corporate pizza chains have flooded the market. There are also more traditional Italian options available. The Farid brothers maintain customer loyalty by making a pie like the one their parents made when the Lebanese East Coast Pizza revolution began. By the late 1990s, a lot of small towns in Nova Scotia had a Lebanese-owned pizzeria and a convenience store. The grocery model that failed in the city worked in rural communities that weren’t large enough to support a Sobeys or a Superstore. The pizza model worked everywhere. A culture of soft crust, big slice, Lebanese pizza spread throughout Nova Scotia. Walid didn’t have flyers. He did his marketing the old-fashioned way. “I gave out a few slices. Word of mouth is more important than anything.” Randy’s Pizza is packed with high school students at lunchtime, proving that, at least in the neighbourhood, the appetite for Lebanese-style pizza is still alive. Walid’s sons run Randy’s multiple locations today. Given the booming real estate market in Nova Scotia, their father thinks it could be a good time to sell a proven pizzeria in the north end of the city, but the Farid brothers are keeping the business in the family. They are expanding to capitalize on the province’s growth by investing in a pair of immigrant-owned Filipino restaurants. Mimo is proud that they are paying their family’s good fortune forward. “They came with nothing, just like us.” With Filipino cuisine poised to be a breakout culinary trend, it’s a humanitarian effort and a savvy business strategy from a family with a proven track record. A few things have changed since the late ’80s, but the recipe for CANADIAN PIZZA · March/April 2022

success remains the same. Hard work, family values, and a belief in a better future have paved the way for the success of Walid and Safria’s family. So long as they are serving the Halifax Regional Municipality, customers can expect a high-quality pizza that has earned its reputation. You will discover Lebanese contributions in every sector of Nova Scotia’s economy today. Lebanese is now an established staple of the local culinary culture, but in 1987, customers were buying the pizza. The rest of the miracle needed time to rise. | CP

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MAKING DOUGH WITH DIANE BY DIANE CHIASSON

Diane Chiasson, FCSI, president of Chiasson Consultants Inc., has been helping foodservice, hospitality and retail operators increase sales for over 35 years by providing innovative and revenue-increasing food service and retail merchandising programs, interior design, branding, menu engineering, marketing and promotional campaigns. Contact her at 416-926-1338, or chiasson@chiassonconsultlants.com, or visit www.chiassonconsultants.com

Six DIY food photography tips and tricks for your pizza operation

our food photography plays a crucial role in your pizzeria’s overall brand image. In addition, food photography provides excellent online marketing opportunities because photos are there to stay for many years. Good photos will help your pizzeria’s brand online presence and increase your online orders. However, bad photos that look unprofessional will have exactly the opposite effect. You could hire a professional photographer, but there are many food photography tips you can use to create professional-quality photos. Using a good-quality camera is crucial to taking beautiful photos, but smartphones now include powerful cameras that can produce great pizza photography.

1. Find inspiration Study a few of your favourite food photographers. Examine each element of your favourite food photos such as styling, composition, colour, lighting, cropping, editing and placement. Browse other pizzeria and restaurant profiles on the Internet. Instagram is probably one of the most prominent places for new food photographers to connect and find inspiration. Instagram is huge among food photographers. Check food blogs to learn more about their photography tricks. Look for inspiration in printed media. Check some food and lifestyle magazines and cookbooks and peruse recipe pamphlets. All of these will expand your understanding of light, composition, colour and editing.

2. Tempt your customers by using your bestlooking products Food photography appearance is everything, and when it comes to the art of food photography, the devil is in the de20

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BACKDROP IDEAS Parchment paper, baking trays, sheet pans, chopping boards, rattan baskets, slate cheese boards, newspapers, carpet or rug, tiles, black chalkboards, unique dinnerware and flatware, tea towels, napkins and patterned tablecloths

Wear a white t-shirt when you start taking some photos; your t-shirt will act as a reflector.

tails. Professional food photographers spend a lot of time searching through dozens or hundreds of perfect-looking pizza products. They also have an arsenal of tricks up their sleeves to make food look delicious on camera. So search for your most vividly coloured pizzas with the perfect golden crust.

3. Understand natural light Make sure to be mindful of light and colour in your final images. The best tip for great food photography lighting is to use plenty of natural light. Try to photograph your food next to a sundrenched window, giving your photos a more natural appearance. Food looks best when the natural, indirect light comes from behind or from the side, usually creating the best images. Also, you want to avoid any glare or strange bright spots that direct light can cause. Finally, never, never use the flash. The flash on your smartphone is often too harsh to produce good photos. Flash photos of food create flat and harsh reflections and glare, resulting in unappetizing images. Avoid fluorescent and other indoor lighting, which will tend to change colours and tones.

4. Modify the light Don’t spend a lot of money on lighting equipment. Instead, use these inexpensive solutions, which will work just fine. Use a white foam board that will reflect the light to eliminate shadows and brighten certain areas of your food plating. Tinfoil and white printer paper are just a few other inexpensive yet incredibly effective reflecting tools you could use to bounce light back over your food.

5. Play with good props and backgrounds Presentation and good composition

are essential and think about your photos telling a story. Your food photography setup should not be overwhelming but rather complement your food. When it comes to food photography, plating techniques and food presentation matter the most. Use different props and backgrounds to see what you like best. Try to use a neutral background to highlight the vivid colours of your food. If you choose to use a cluttered and highly coloured background, remember that it will steal the focus from your food and will make it seem bland and tasteless.

6. Use your branded pizzeria products, brochures and packaging The main focus of each photo should be the food itself. However, adding some subtly branded items in the background will strongly reinforce your brand. Don’t choose a busy background as it will distract from what you really want people to look at: the food. Just select some unique overall brand products such as pizza boxes, bags or brochures. These small touches in your images will be a great opportunity to convey your brand image and remind your customers of your unique atmosphere and products. It’s very important to maintain a cohesive look that is indicative of your brand on your website and other social media platforms. Experiment with angles, placement and backdrops, and try shooting your food close up or away from the camera. Try to show as few elements as possible in a particular image. Adhering to your brand for all photos will help create consistency and authenticity. You now know how to photograph your food like a pro. You are ready to start capturing some of your stunning pizzeria menu items of your own! | CP March/April 2022 · CANADIAN PIZZA

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PIZZA EXPO HIGHLIGHTS

PIZZA DEMO: TAVERN-STYLE Laura Meyer’s tavern-style pizza demo a highlight at Vegas Expo BY COLLEEN CROSS

Method 1: Parbaked Chicago cornmeal-style (Ritz-cracker texture) is an example of a parbaked tavern-style crust. She uses about five per cent cornmeal, it has low fat content. She uses an all-purpose flour base, her preference being an extremely low-protein base (about 11 per cent). With no space for a sheeter in the pizzeria, Meyer makes crusts in advance by hand and they sit on a shelf until ready to use for that day’s ser22

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er-moisture cheeses seem to work better and the second bake can be shorter. Raw items need a longer bake. Pizzas may need to be moved around in a wood-fired oven, which is not what she typically teaches. “These are often split-second decisions.”

Method 2: Cooked from raw vice. She uses a 13-ounce dough ball stretched to 16 inches and coated in medium-grind cornmeal. It’s a highly efficient handmade assembly line. A docker helps de-gas or reduce bubbles in the dough. Meyer warned chefs not to perforate the dough. She suggested aiming for slight coloration on the first bake, being careful not to let the dough dry out. The bottom of the oven is set at seven per cent to “crisp the dough.” The dough bubbles a bit, then deflates. The parbaked crusts are then nested inside a box where they grow up instead of out. Doughs should be stretched a little larger than the screen. The second bake is two minutes long. Doughs then sit stacked for up for eight to nine hours of service. This helps them retain moisture. The award-winning pizza chef and veteran instructor had a few cautions: These crusts do not hold a chunky sauce. Instead, she recommends a thicker purée, which she said is a good way to sweeten the pizza without adding sugar. For a cheese pizza, low-

CHEF LAURA MEYER defines tavern-style as “cracker-thin” pizza that can vary widely by region.

Meyer also made a St. Louis-style pizza, which she calls “a very humbling pie.” Tricky to make, it ideally features no more than five ingredients. “We do say no sometimes,” Meyer said with a smile referring to customer requests for extra toppings. She uses a nine-ounce dough ball stretch to 16 inches and docks the dough. There is not a lot of moisture – it dries out quickly. This regional style is distinctive and not for every taste, she said. It often features a white processed cheese called Provel, which is a combination of cheddar, Swiss and provolone. For this pie, it’s best to use a low-moisture cheese with a low melting point and a high flow rate, and a very sweet sauce. She parbakes longer the first time and there are little things she does to accommodate toppings. “You need to cook the crust a little longer to get the browning because there is no sugar,” she said. It’s basically a six-minute pie, said Meyer, who likes to pitch tavern-style as an app for a group of guests to increase your sales ticket. | CP March/April 2022 · CANADIAN PIZZA

PHOTO: CANADIAN PIZZA

he International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas, true to form, delivered a high standard of exciting education sessions, competitions, demonstrations and products to pizzeria operators. One highlight was a popular demo by Laura Meyer: How to Make Tavern-Style Pizza. The talented and busy Laura Meyer of Tony Gemignani’s International School of Pizza demonstrated her method for making tavern-style pizza. Meyer defines the style as “cracker-thin” pizza that can vary widely by region. Tavern-style calls for unleavened doughs and not a lot of aeration. Ideally it should be served immediately after baking to retain the crispness and heat. Meyer demonstrated two methods: parbaked for maximum crispiness and cooked from raw with sauce and cheese. She made two regional styles: Chicago cornmeal-style (saltine cracker texture) and St. Louise style (so crispy it shatters).

possibilities for gluten-free crusts

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