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References

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Anthony Seklaoui – Photographer

1. Ikomi, A. (2024, June 27). Behind the Image: Anthony Seklaoui. MODELS.com. https://models com/oftheminute/?p=162857

2 “Anthony Seklaoui ” Art + Commerce Retrieved 2025 https://imagearchive.artandcommerce.com/artists/photographers/Anthony-Seklaoui/bi o

3 “Anthony Seklaoui – Photographer” Fashion Model Directory Retrieved 2025 https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/photographers/anthony-seklaoui/

4 Moss, J (2025, February 19) “Alaïa by Seklaoui”: behind the scenes at Alaïa Wallpaper*. https://wwwwallpapercom/fashion-beauty/alaia-book-pieter-mulier-anthony-seklaouiphotography

Robbie Spencer – Stylist / Creative Director

5 Spencer, R (2012, October 3) Best of Womenswear A/W12: Robbie Spencer Dazed Digital https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/13192/1/best-of-womenswear-a-w12-rob bie-spencer

6 Spencer, R (2019, October 10) Robbie Spencer announces new role as Executive Fashion Director of Dazed. Dazed. https://www.dazeddigital.com/robbie-spencer

7 “Spencer Robbie ” Purple Magazine, Issue 76 Purple Institute https://purple fr/magazine/purple-76-index-issue-29/spencer-robbie/

HUNGER Magazine

8 “Anthony Seklaoui for AnOther Magazine Autumn/Winter 2024 ” AnOther Magazine https://www.anothermag.com/user/AnthonySeklaoui

9 General coverage: various issues of HUNGER Magazine – via publication credits linked to photographers such as Anthony Seklaoui (See Art + Commerce artist listing.)

Models & Gender-fluid / Androgynous / Trans Representation

10.Milligan, L. (2014, July 29). Andreja Pejic’s Fashion Journey. British Vogue. https://wwwvogue co uk/gallery/andreja-pejic-interview-transition-name-change-mod

elling

11. “Andreja Pejic – Androgynous Model Comes Out As Transgender Woman.” Fashionista (2014) https://fashionista com/2014/07/andreja-pejic-comes-out-as-transgender

12 “Has the Fashion Industry Reached a Transgender Turning Point?” Vogue (2015) https://wwwvogue com/article/andreja-pejic-transgender-model

13.Hass, N. (2016, March 31). Andreja Pejic on changing the face of fashion as a transgender model Evening Standard https://wwwstandard co uk/lifestyle/fashion/andreja-pejic-on-changing-the-face-of-fas hion-as-a-transgender-model-and-why-one-day-she-would-like-to-be-just-another-girl -a3213386 html

14 Attitude Magazine (2016) Interview: Andreja Pejic talks trans youth, Bowie, and the gender tipping point. https://wwwattitude co uk/uncategorised/interview-supermodel-andreja-pejic-talks-tra ns-youth-bowie-and-the-gender-tipping-point-291238/

Madonna & Jean Paul Gaultier Collaboration & 1980s Style

16 Gaultier, J -P (n d ) House history and design impact see fashion-history reviews & retrospectives (Source: fashion-archive journals / books on 1980s and 1990s fashion.)

17 Coverage of Madonna’s 1980s style and its cultural significance refer to Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and music-fashion retrospective articles (Public archives / magazine back-issues; may need subscription.)

Tailoring & Designer House Focus: Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen

18 Fashion-history books and articles analysing the architectural tailoring of Mugler and McQueen e g Daphne Guinness: Dress Code, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, and retrospective critiques.

19 Gaultier’s influence on blending tailoring, theatricality, and gender fluidity see scholarly essays in fashion journals (e g Fashion Theory) and magazine retrospectives.

20 Archive runway reviews and critiques from shows by Mugler, Gaultier, and McQueen published in W, Vogue, i-D, and The New York Times Style Magazine

Film / Cultural Movements: Cinéma du look & The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie

21 De Semlyen, P (2016, August 8) Movie movements that defined cinema: Cinema du Look. Empire.

https://wwwempireonline com/movies/features/cinema-du-look-movie-era/

22 Articles discussing the aesthetic and cultural context of Cinema du Look (various film-history / cultural journals).

23 Ebert, R (n d ) Great Movie: The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie RogerEbert.com.

https://wwwrogerebert com/reviews/great-movie-the-discreet-charm-of-the-bourgeois ie-1972

Copenhagen Fashion Week, Scandinavian Fashion and Context

Business of Fashion. (2022, September 15). Copenhagen fashion week: Why the city matters Business of Fashion

Highsnobiety (2023, August 10) How Copenhagen became the blueprint for sustainable fashion weeks. Highsnobiety.

Dezeen. (2021, June 2). How Scandinavian design principles influence fashion and interiors. Dezeen

Vogue (2022) Inside the rise of Copenhagen as fashion’s new capital Vogue

The Guardian. (2021). Why Scandinavian style dominates global wardrobes. The Guardian. Highsnobiety (2020) The evolution of Scandinavian streetwear Highsnobiety

Business of Fashion (2021) Inside the Scandinavian fashion economy Business of Fashion

Acne Studios

Hypebeast. (2019, April 3). Acne Studios’ evolution into art-driven fashion. Hypebeast.

Financial Times (2020, February 12) Acne Studios: From denim to global fashion house

Financial Times

Business of Fashion (2019) Acne Studios brand profile Business of Fashion

Interview Magazine. (2018). Jonny Johansson and the Acne Studios identity. Interview Magazine Ganni

Business of Fashion (2019, November 21) How Ganni became the brand for the modern woman. Business of Fashion.

Vogue Business. (2021, October 5). Ganni’s new approach to modern femininity. Vogue Business

ELLE (2020) Inside the world of Ganni Girls ELLE Harper’s Bazaar. (2022). The Ganni effect: Colour, ease, confidence. Harper’s Bazaar.

Rolf Ekroth

Another Magazine. (2023, August). Rolf Ekroth: Heritage and contemporary tailoring. Another Magazine

Dazed (2023, February) Rolf Ekroth’s nostalgic reinventions Dazed Vogue Scandinavia. (2022). Rolf Ekroth and the revival of Nordic craft techniques. Vogue

Scandinavia

Rave Review (Rave RVW)

i-D (2020, December) The new wave of upcycling: Rave Review i-D FashionUnited (2021, March) Rave Review: Sustainable statements from Stockholm FashionUnited.

CR Fashion Book (2022) Inside the maximalist world of Rave Review CR Fashion Book

Stine Goya

The Cut (2018, May) Stine Goya’s colourful revolution The Cut Vogue Business (2019, March) How Stine Goya uses print to build identity Vogue Business.

Fashionista. (2020). Why Stine Goya’s colour-driven fashion matters. Fashionista.

Holzweiler

Business of Fashion (2022, November) Holzweiler: From scarves to a global brand Business of Fashion

The Guardian (2021, July) Holzweiler’s sustainable Scandinavian approach The Guardian Vogue Scandinavia. (2021). Inside Holzweiler’s rise. Vogue Scandinavia.

Caro Editions

Dazed (2022, September) Emerging Danish labels to watch: Caro Editions Dazed Copenhagen Fashion Week (2023) Caro Editions runway notes Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Vogue Scandinavia (2023) Caro Editions and modern Danish cut Vogue Scandinavia

Helsa Studio / Elsa Hosk

Business Insider (2022, October) Elsa Hosk’s move from modelling to brand building Business Insider

WWD. (2022, September). Helsa Studio launch coverage. WWD. Harper’s Bazaar (2022, October) Elsa Hosk on style and entrepreneurship Harper’s Bazaar

The New York Times. (2023, February). Models turned entrepreneurs: Elsa Hosk’s shift into design The New York Times

Models, Influencers and Style Figures

i-D (2020, May) Babette van Luijk: Street style influence i-D Highsnobiety (2019) Francesca Perks interview and style breakdown Highsnobiety

The Face. (2019). Lynn Yaeger: Style icon profile. The Face. Another Magazine. (2018). Simone Henneberg: Model profile. Another Magazine.

Vogue Scandinavia (2022) 10 Scandinavian influencers shaping modern style Vogue Scandinavia

Refinery29. (2021). Scandi style influencers you need to know. Refinery29.

The Cut (2020) The rise of the Scandinavian It girl The Cut

Scandi Streetwear and Trend Analysis

Highsnobiety (2021) Understanding Scandinavian minimalism Highsnobiety

Business of Fashion. (2023, July). Scandi minimalism evolves into maximal minimalism. Business of Fashion

GQ (2022) Nordic menswear and the future of clean silhouettes GQ

The Atlantic. (2021). Why Scandinavian design continues to influence global fashion. The Atlantic

Vogue (2021) Inside the Copenhagen street style shift Vogue

Sustainability, Upcycling and Nordic Craft

Fashion Revolution (2021) The Nordic approach to sustainable fashion Fashion Revolution.

Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2020). Circular economy and textiles in Scandinavia. Ellen MacArthur Foundation

Financial Times (2021) Scandi brands leading sustainable innovation Financial Times

The Guardian. (2020). Why Nordic countries lead in fashion sustainability. The Guardian.

Traditional Scandinavian and Danish Dress

Nordic Museum. (n.d.). Scandinavian folk costumes and bunad traditions. Nordic Museum. Museum of Decorative Arts and Design (n d ) Traditional Nordic textile craft Museum of Decorative Arts and Design

The National Museum of Denmark. (2020). History of Danish folk costume. National Museum of Denmark

Smithsonian Magazine (2019) The evolution of Nordic dress tradition Smithsonian Magazine

Journal of Dress History. (2020). Scandinavian dress history and modern reinterpretation. Journal of Dress History

Photography, Image Direction, References

British Journal of Photography (2019) Paolo Roversi’s portrait techniques and influence

British Journal of Photography

Another Magazine. (2021). Soft lighting in Scandinavian photography. Another Magazine. i-D (2019) Nordic fashion photography’s new wave i-D

Retail, Industry and Market Context

Net-a-Porter (2020) Brand focus: Acne Studios, Ganni, Stine Goya

Net-a-Porter / Porter

Forbes (2023) Nordic brands and global expansion Forbes FashionUnited. (2022). Market analysis of Scandinavian fashion exports. FashionUnited.

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