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Vendée Globe Time Travel Ski Safe & much more
~Passionate about life in south west France~
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4 | living contents
october - nov e m ber
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Time Travel As the confinement eased, Jessica Knipe took her band of adventurers on a journey back in time
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Snippets News from around the region
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16
Practical Advice
Spanning the Centuries Getting around this great country of ours is something we now take for granted, we have pioneering engineers to thank for making that possible
22
Going Global The Vendée Globe, a round-the-world sailing adventure which eclipses all others, sets sail from our shores
24
Our experts answer questions on legal and money matters
34
Citizens’ Rights Kathryn Dobson explains the latest information for British citizens here in France
36
Pumpkins & Pagans The Hays family looks forward to trick or treating in Charente-Maritime
Ski Safe Is ‘social distancing’ getting you down? A winter getaway to higher altitudes can actually make it a lot more fun, so we consider where and when to go
37
Puzzle Break Our unique crossword by Mike Morris
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Nikki Legon’s Cuisine Tasty autumnal recipes that will delight all the family
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Meet the Grapes Our wine expert Caro Feely outlines five red and five white wine grapes grown here
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Living Property Pages A profile of Availles-Limouzine
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Homemade brews We look at natural (and free) alternatives to chemical fertilisers for your garden
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Hardy Soul We celebrate singer/songwriter Françoise Hardy
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Pardon! The world of slang explored by linguist Emma-Jane Lee
54-63
Business Directory The best local services & suppliers
64 Places To Go around the region
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Spanning
16 | living places to visit
the Cent uries
Vers-Pont-du-Gard The spectacular Roman Pont du Gard aqueduct has spanned the Gardon valley for 2,000 years
Getting around this great country of ours is something we now take for granted, but in the past things were much less straightforward. Words: Roger Moss
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living living places LANDMARKS to visit | 17
T
he diverse landscapes of France include some formidable natural barriers, from fast-flowing rivers to broad valleys and deep, craggy gorges. Drive through areas like the Ardèche or Cévènnes and you’ll see just how slow progress becomes when road networks twist and turn repeatedly to cope with features like these. It’s little wonder
that they’re sparsely-populated, remote communities owing their survival to colporteurs, or peddlers, who for centuries travelled far from their homes to trade local produce, following ancient mule paths which used simply constructed bridges to cross rivers and streams. Elsewhere great cities like Bordeaux, Limoges, Lyon or Toulouse all developed beside major rivers, at locations where it was possible to ford
them during dry periods. Once the problem of getting across when the rivers were in flood was overcome, commerce flourished and prosperity followed. For that we have to thank the early bridge builders whose efforts were often financed by a toll levied on goods crossing. Some timber constructions survived for many years, until they were either destroyed by storms, or could simply no longer cope
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22 | living EVENTS The start of the Vendée Globe, off Les Sables d’Olonne on 6 November 2016
Going Global The Atlantic Coast port of Les Sables d’Olonne has become world famous, thanks to the Vendée Globe, a roundthe-world sailing adventure which eclipses all others
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tricolore will be one Franco-German skipper and a Franco-Australian. Exactly who will be at the helm when the first vessel returns to cross the finishing line after an epic voyage is anyone’s guess. Past events have underlined the fact that despite our best efforts at monitoring global weather conditions, at sea anything can happen, and when it does competitors have to deal with the results with no outside help. That takes not only steely determination and resourcefulness but also solid, down-to-earth practical skills. Then there’s the technology, which has advanced a great deal since the first mono-hull vessels designed around ‘foils’ – wing-like extensions which generate
lift, allowing the hulls to virtually fly above the waves – made their Vendée Globe debut in 2016. These advanced 60-foot vessels are administered by the International Monohull Open Class Association (IMOCA) and this year’s examples are capable of averaging around 30 knots, hour after hour. Doing so comes at a cost, however, since the hulls now have to incorporate extra strengthening elements to cope with the greatly increased physical loads imposed on them in heavy sea conditions. The resulting repeated ‘take-offs’ and ‘landings’ can create extremely violent movements, and it’s not only the 9-tonne boats which must handle the stresses and strains of this kind of progress but the mariners
LEFT: © Vincent Curutchet/DPPI/Vendée Globe; MIDDLE: Jean-Marie Liot /DPPI/Vendée Globe
C
an four years really have passed since the previous edition of the Vendée Globe? Indeed they have, as our feature on the event in the Oct/Nov 2016 issue of LIVING will confirm. While the world feels like a very different place now, the spirit of escapism and heroic determination will be as strong as ever among this year’s competitors when they set sail from Les Sables d’Olonne on 8 November. Contesting the 9th Edition will be 34 solo mariners from eight nations – France will have 22 entrants, Britain four, while Italy, Germany, Japan, Spain and Switzerland will have one each. Contributing a final flourish of the
living EVENTS | 23 Alex Thomson (GBR) aboard Hugo Boss, off Kerguelen Islands
Arrival home of Armel Le Cleac’h (FRA), skipper of Banque Populaire VIII, winner of the 2016 Vendée Globe
Romain Attanasion (FRA), skipper of Family Mary
TOP: © Marine Nationale/Nefertiti/Vendée Globe; BOTTOM: © Jean Marie Liot/DPPI/Vendée Globe
themselves, both physically and mentally. Despite which, the reference time established back then by Armel Le Cléac’h (74 days, 3hrs, 35’ 46”) is likely to be comprehensively beaten by this year’s leaders. Fuelling that expectation are the results of the Vendée-Arctique-Les Sables d’Olonne, a preparatory race which earlier this year replaced two transatlantic events cancelled in response to the Covid-19 pandemic. The triangular course around the North Atlantic and penetrating the Arctic Circle was designed to test both the sailors and the boats in demanding and varied sailing conditions. Their days and nights at sea provided a wealth of valuable data, and was not without incident – three of
the twenty competitors being forced to retire with structural damage caused by the harsh conditions they encountered. The new vessels proved themselves, however, taking the top three places on the podium and finishing over 6hrs ahead of the previous generation boats. Tackling the voyage was clearly a tough challenge but is as nothing compared to what those competing will face in the far longer Vendée Globe. During their 40,000km or so circumnavigation of the planet the mariners will encounter all the extremes of climate that four seasons can throw at them. And they’ll be sailing alone throughout the whole epic adventure. Follow them: www.vendeeglobe.org.
Be there for the start on 8 Nov – or a longer stay...
As we went to press full details had yet to be announced of what visitors to the Vendée Globe Village can expect this year in response to the continuing Covid-19 situation. The 6,000m2 site at Port Olona is scheduled to open 10am – 8pm from 17 Oct – 8 Nov. Free admission. From mid-January a giant screen will be showing the arrival of the competitors, for crowds to to greet them in style. Details: www.vendee-tourisme.com
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The kids took part in Ancient Greece’s first | living Olympic Games, in 776BC
30
travel
The gallo-roman amphitheatre in Saintes took our breath away
erewrerew erwerwerew
The Château Fort in Saint-Jean-d’Angle is set up to immerse visitors in the Middle Ages
Even the bread got dressed up with an ankh during our trip to Ancient Egypt
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ABOVE: Ancient Egyptian queen Hatchepsout and her brothers THIS PHOTO: A house renovation is a good backdrop for cave paintings
living family fun | 29
As confinement eased over the summer, Jessica Knipe followed up her travels around the world from her sofa with a socially-distanced step back in time…
W
hile we were all stuck at home during the lockdown the only way to travel was in our minds – and boy, did we explore every corner! In April my family and I went on a round-the-world trip (which you might have read about in the summer 2020 edition of LIVING Magazine) and visited Spain and Japan, Morocco and the US without ever leaving the house. When we were eventually allowed back out again we still wanted to stay as socially distanced as we could, and with a summer calendar full of cancelled events we started longing for a different period in our lives. Oh, to be transported back to previous summertimes, when the living was easy and the world was our oyster. One afternoon, as we watched Back to the Future, we realised that just as we had made our own fun during lockdown, so could we explore the world through a different lens. We could even build our own DeLorean from cardboard, and it became less
travel a question of ‘where’, and more of ‘when’ did we want to go that day. Of course, we didn’t HAVE to build a time machine to embark on the journey, but I recommend you try; it’s a lot of fun. Summer flew by, and time-travel proved to be not only a fun activity for the whole family, but also a good way of fitting in a little history revision before school began in September. And let’s face it: at the same time it gave me a little history revision. But you already knew the three ages of the Mesozoic, right? Sure you did. Anyway, that’s where we started, setting the DeLorean’s time circuits back to the dawn of time. As it turns out, the Aquitaine Basin is the second-largest Mesozoic sedimentary basin in France, after the Paris Basin. In fact, as you will have seen in previous issues of LIVING, Angeac-Charente, between Cognac and Angoulême, is one of the world’s largest paleontological sites. Mammoth tusks, crocodiles and pterosaurs have all been found, but the site made
One afternoon, as we “ watched Back to the Future,
we realised that we could explore the world through a different lens. We could even build our own DeLorean from cardboard
”
A caveman takes on a fierce sabretooth tiger
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38 | living nikki legon’s cuisine
Do you end up repeating the same dishes week after week? Find inspiration in these delicious autumnal recipes packed with seasonal ingredients…
Nikki Legon's
Creamy Mushroom Vol-AuVents
cuisine
Autumn Salad serves 2
If you can find pomegranate molasses this is delicious, but otherwise you can substitute with the dressing of your choice 220g salad leaves of your choice
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6 large figs, quartered 200g cheese: feta, goat’s or Roquefort 2 tbsp walnuts 1 pomegranate DRESSING 4 tbsp pomegranate molasses 4 tbsp balsamic vinegar 2 tbsp brown sugar 2 tbsp light olive oil
METHOD In a small pan combine the dressing ingredients and cook over a low heat for 5 minutes until the sugar has melted and the liquid coats the back of a spoon. Place the salad onto a large plate arrange the figs and cheese, drizzle over the dressing, sprinkle with walnuts and the fruit from the pomegranate.
living nikki legon’s cuisine | 39
Spaghetti with Chanterelles serves 6
Spaghetti with Chanterelles Autumn Salad
600g chanterelles 3 tbsp salted butter 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 chilli pepper, diced finely 2 tbsp cognac 400g spaghetti or pasta of your choice 80g vegetarian Parmesan cheese, grated 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Crispy Aubergine & Prawn Fingers
METHOD Brush any dirt from the mushrooms and tear in half. Heat the butter in a large frying pan and add the mushrooms. Fry on a high heat, tossing a couple of times. Add the garlic and chilli pepper. Season with salt and pepper. Add the cognac and carefully set alight. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water until al dente, drain and add to the mushrooms. Add the cheese, toss gently, season to taste and sprinkle with the parsley.
Crispy Aubergine & Prawn Fingers
serves 2
1 medium aubergine 6 large peeled prawns ½ tsp chilli powder 3 tbsp of plain flour 2 eggs 2 tbsp of milk Panko breadcrumbs METHOD Cut the aubergine into 6 long fingers. Clean the prawns making sure the black intestine is removed. In separate bowls, mix the flour with the chilli and beat the eggs into the milk. Dip the prawns and aubergine into the flour then into the egg, then into the breadcrumbs. Deep fry in hot oil and drain. Serve with chilli sauce or garlic mayonnaise.
Creamy Mushroom Vol-Au-Vents serves 4
3 tbsp light olive oil 2 leeks, white part only, chopped 3 cloves of garlic, minced 500g mixed mushrooms (use a soft brush to clean any dirt away; do not wash in water) salt and pepper 4 large vol-au-vents cases
50g butter 50g plain flour 500ml milk ½ onion studded with 1 bay leaf and 2 cloves
studded onion. Turn off the heat and leave to infuse for 20 minutes. Melt the butter in another small saucepan, then add the plain flour, stirring continuously until a roux is formed. Continue cooking for two minutes. METHOD Remove the onion from the milk and Add oil to a large frying pan on a add the infused milk to the roux medium heat and fry the leeks and gradually stirring as you go until you garlic for 2 minutes to soften. Add the mushrooms and salt and pepper to taste. get a creamy lump-free sauce. Combine the cooked leeks and Cover with a lid and cook around mushrooms into the sauce. 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Heat the vol-au-vents and fill them with Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, gently the mixture. Serve with a green salad. bring the milk to the boil with the
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50 | living in the garden
Finally: a use for coffee grounds
in the garden
Borage is a welcome sight
Homemade brews Organic gardening makes sense, so we look at natural (and free) alternatives to chemical fertilisers WORDS: ROGER MOSS
Stinging nettle brew
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Compost needs turning
Tomatoes respond to regular feeding
living in the garden | 51 Eggshells add nutrients and deter slugs
G
ardeners, it seems, can be hard to please. We spend so much time and expend so much energy anticipating a bountiful summer of beautiful blooms and productive potagers that we place quite a weight on the shoulders of Mother Nature. Or perhaps that’s just a fanciful invention on our part, to avoid the uncomfortable realisation that weather patterns are largely out of our hands and we just have to live with whatever comes our way, good or bad. This year’s long, hot summer might have been just what our morale needed but it was a tough time for our gardens, and if we hadn’t been so diligent with watering then there would have been a few casualties. That said, could it be that the dry conditions might actually have had a positive effect on one particularly worrying threat to our gardens? For the past few years gardens and hedgerows
around the region (and much of Europe) have been under attack by Cydalima perspectalis – the caterpillars of the box moth. Left unchecked their voracious appetites can strip every leaf from their defenceless victims, so a constant vigil has been needed to detect the pests’ appearance in time to spray and halt an infestation. Previously the alarm would sound perhaps three times each summer, but for some reason this year produced just one attack, so the plants continue to recover from previous near decimation. Hopefully that pattern will continue in 2021 and beyond, but we gardeners know from experience that it doesn’t pay to be complacent. The treatments deployed against the caterpillars aren’t in this case toxic (they merely make the plants distasteful to the caterpillars, which then starve) but that’s not the case for some other concoctions
HOMME VERT Garden design, hard landscape construction and planting service based in Montmoreau (16). Kew trained, RHS show garden contractor & designer, 30+ years’ experience. Full references available. Richard 07 88 29 54 37 richard@boisbourdeau.fr www.boisbourdeau.fr Siret: RCS Angoulême 851 973 198 00019
which are probably lurking on the shelves of our sheds and greenhouses. As we’ve learnt to our cost, if we put down pellets to kill slugs we could also end up poisoning the hedgehogs and other wildlife who see such gardening threats as a ready source of food. Then there’s the broader debate surrounding pest control treatments and non-organic farming (and gardening) practices, not least their possible effects on declining bee populations. Whatever their public image, fertiliser companies can be surprisingly generous when it comes to the mineral content of their products, something which creates problems when excess chemicals (plants can only take up so much in the way of nutrients) find their way through the soil, or via run-off, into water courses where they become pollutants. With that in mind, this could be
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