L i ving Roll on 2021!
magazine
dec jan 2021
inside: Residency: what you need to know delicious Gift ideas Local News & views
Le Petit Prince
An aviator’s timeless tale
~ Passionate about life in south west France ~
20
4 | living contents
DECEMBER - JANUARY
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38 5
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Our experts answer questions on legal and money matters
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Practical Advice
32
Snippets News from around the region
16
Citizens’ Rights
Cross Roads Roger Moss discovers the history behind the ancient crosses found in and around many local villages and reveals a dazzling find unearthed near one
20
Understanding the Sénat The recent ‘Sénatoriales’ focused attention on the Sénat so we asked Jessica Knipe to explain the importance of this historic institution
24
Kathryn Dobson explains the latest information for British citizens here in France including how to apply for residency
36
Banish the New Year Blues Beach walks and visits to local sites keep the Hays family occupied long after the festivities are over
37
Puzzle Break Our unique crossword by Mike Morris
A Flight of Fantasy 120 years after his birth, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry is best remembered as author of ‘Le Petit Prince’ but he packed far more into his short life...
38
Nikki Legon’s Cuisine Delicious homemade gift ideas that are perfect for friends and family
For all editorial & subscription enquiries: editorial@livingmagazine.fr or phone + 33 (0)5 49 87 29 71
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42
South West Christmas Wines Our wine expert Caro Feely helps us to choose local wines to pair with your festive meals
44
Living Property Pages A profile of Montbron in Charente
50
Fruit of the Forest Winter wouldn’t be the same without chestnuts and in rural areas they have provided an essential resource over the centuries
65
Setting the Mood France has long been ‘big box-office’ with music often playing a starring role
66
Pardon! Emma-Jane Lee shows us how to play the perfect Grinch this Christmas and grumble our way into 2021!
54-63
Business Directory The best local services & suppliers
64 Places To Go around the region
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L i v in g L L i v in g Grieav in g Roll on 2021!
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: what residencyto know you need t ideas s deliciou Gif & views local news
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Suppor Bump ~Passionate about life t ou in south loca l compar west france~ Dreamy er issue de nies on ou stinations e tal & muchr doorstep ss ele Pa ’s tim ssionat much m ~ an aviator ore e abou west france h ut t so li in fe in so about life uth wes ~ Passionate t france
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16 | living architecture Agris (16)
Linazay (86)
Ligné (16)
With armorial crest
A former lanterne des morts
CrossRoads We celebrate some curious ancient monuments found in and around many local villages. Words & Photos: Roger Moss
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A
peaceful stroll around a rural village cemetery can turn out to be a fascinating experience, often revealing surprising insight into local history and the lives of those who influenced it. The monuments to departed loved ones are often striking, but an altogether more mysterious feature can often be seen standing nearby, in the form of a croix hosannière. While they occasionally pop up elsewhere France, the greatest concentration of these intriguing monumental stone crosses is here in the south west, particularly in the former PoitouCharentes region. At first glance they share some similarities with lanternes des morts (to which we’ll be turning our attention
living architecture | 17
Moëze (17)
“The greatest concentration of these intriguing monumental stone crosses is here in the south west” when Halloween comes around again) but their intended purpose was very different. The name is thought to derive from l’hosanne – a sacred crown braided from slender young stems of buis (box), although they could also be sourced instead from fragon (‘Butcher’s Broom’), laurier (laurel) or olivier (the ever-present olives of Provence). The lovingly prepared crowns would then be blessed outside the church by the village priest before the assembled villagers, who then formed a procession to the specially-constructed cross. There they witnessed the crown being placed upon it as a symbolic gesture, accompanied by the words: “Hosanna au
plus haut des cieux!” (Hosanna in excelsis/ the highest). For centuries these now long-forgotten annual rituals lay at the very heart of the annual religious celebrations of le Dimanche des Rameaux. More frequently referred to in southern France as le Dimanche des Palmes, it is, of course, what we know as Palm Sunday. The crosses themselves are found in a variety of styles, and throughout the centuries many have undergone repairs which have altered their appearance slightly – in some cases to address the wanton desecration of religious monuments which occurred throughout France during the Revolution. Generally, however, the classic form consists of a monumental
Courcôme (16) stone cross up to 10 metres high and erected on a circular, stepped base although you’ll also come across much more ornate examples constructed from (or sculpted to suggest) clusters of smaller columns. The sheer scale of many of the plainer columns often creates considerable visual impact, the end result suggesting a curious 12th century vision of a rocket on a launchpad. Surmounting columns of all sizes will be the all important plain or sculpted holy cross, many of which bear a striking similarity to what we commonly refer to as a ‘Maltese Cross’. Exactly why this should be remains something of a mystery, but
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20 | living Insight
The Sénat, at the Palais de Luxembourg, in Paris
rance recently voted to elect many of its Sénateurs, otherwise known as the nation’s parliamentary safeguards. These 348 men and women, local delegates representing people from every corner of the country, exist to keep the government in check, but they also stand for the rights and needs of the small towns and villages which they help run. Although the Députés of the Assemblée Nationale are voted in directly by the general public, Sénateurs are voted into their seats by the officials in power in the local area which they represent, for a period of six years. Half the Sénat ’s seats are up for election every three years, with many of our local départements participating in the recent Sénatoriales in September. “We are also known as the Chambre des Territoires,” explains Corinne Imbert, who has just been reelected as a Sénatrice for the département of Charente-Maritime (17). “The number of Sénateurs by département depends on the number of residents they represent, but all of us are here to defend our territory and
“The consequences of Brexit seem so difficult that I can’t just accept them blindly. I can’t help but feel concern for the British residents in my département, and I can only hope that the French administration will be considerate of those who have been here for so many years.” Corinne Imbert, sénatrice - Charente-Maritime (17)
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PHOTOS BOTTOM LEFT & RIGHT, OPPOSITE PAGE LEFT: © SÉNAT
Understanding F
living Insight | 21
If you are wondering about the significance of the ‘Sénatoriales’, here is a quick overview on who does what, and why the Sénat is an institution which plays an integral part in the protection of our rights WORDS: JESSICA KNIPE
the
Sénat
“I am keenly aware of how attached British residents are to our territory. Many of them have an active role in the economic or associative life of our towns and villages. There are still many grey areas around Brexit and its consequences, but I would like to reassure the British people in the Périgord of my vigilance around this in the coming weeks.”
sdasdasdasd sadasadsad
Serge Mérillou, sénateur - Dordogne (24)
those who live there, even if they didn’t vote for us directly.” So, what exactly is the Sénat? Well, it’s an assembly of representatives, from every political family, who constitute the second Chambre of French Parliament. The Chambre Basse is what France calls the Assemblée Nationale (National Assembly) and the Chambre Haute, or Haute Assemblée is the Sénat (Senate) – which is why the word ‘bicamérisme’ is used in French politics to describe a Parliament having two legislative bodies. “I am very attached
to bicamérisme,” says Serge Mérillou, Sénateur of the Dordogne. “Often mocked and described as ‘useless’, the Sénat has shown in recent years its huge utility as a counter-power.” Which is not to say that the Sénat is anti-power – it is simply a mechanism that allows the State to question the decisions of the government in power at any given time. “Our Republic stands on two feet,” says Corinne Imbert, “and both are important to preserve the stability of our institutions. If our Présidents chose their own government once elected,
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24 | living in profile
With fellow Aéropostale pilot Henri Guillaumet in Argentina
Flight We celebrate the 120th anniversary of the birth of a pioneering French aviator who became one of the world’s best-selling authors Words: Roger Moss
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living in profile | 25
At work in New York
T
he author’s preface to Le Petit Prince is in the form of a brief dedication to a friend, and includes the observation: “Toutes les grandes personnes ont d’abord été des enfants (mais peu d’entre elles s’en souviennent).” The notion that few grown-ups remember that they were once children underpins what amounts to a thought-provoking parable to help us reconnect with the things which matter most in our lives. Published with the author’s watercolour illustrations in war-torn 1943, Le Petit Prince clearly struck a chord, having so far clocked up worldwide sales in excess of 140 million copies. Over the years the remarkable life of the man behind this and a string of other big-selling titles has continued to captivate his readers. Antoine Marie Jean-Baptiste Roger de Saint-Exupéry’s family originated in
With navigator/ flight engineer André Prévot
or near the village of Saint-Exupéryles-Roches (19), and their descendants eventually settled in Bordeaux, where success in the wine trade enabled them to purchase the Château Malescot in Margaux. When the phylloxera epidemic decimated the vineyards financial ruin forced Fernand, Comte de Saint-Exupéry to go into the insurance business in Le Mans. The eldest of his seven children was Antoine’s father Jean, who married Marie de Fonscolombe from Provence. The couple had five children by the time Jean suffered a
fatal stroke at the age of 41. Antoine’s own story begins in Lyon on 29 June 1900. Described as ‘turbulent and disorderly’, he invents family games, directs short plays and displays a natural talent for acting. ‘Tonio’ also writes verse, and shares his siblings’ love for animals, vowing never to go hunting. He also develops a fascination for machinery, particularly early ‘flying machines’. At the age of 12 he has his first flight (against strict instructions from his mother) at the aerodrome
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38 | living nikki legon’s cuisine
As we face a socially-distanced Christmas, Nikki shares recipes that make delicious presents for friends and neighbours (and the four-legged variety). You might find they are simply too tasty to give away!
Nikki Legon's
cuisine Christmas Chutney
Christmas Chutney 750g Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and chopped into small pieces 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped into small pieces 500g fresh or frozen cranberries (canneberges) - if frozen, defrost 250g finely chopped dried apricots 1 red pepper and 1 green pepper, deseeded and chopped into small pieces
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Brandied Cranberry Sauce
Chicken Liver Parfait
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 clementines 400g caster sugar ½ tsp ground cloves 1 tsp ground ginger 1½ tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp cayenne pepper 500ml white wine vinegar 2 tsp salt METHOD Place the apples, onion, cranberries, apricots, peppers and garlic into a
large saucepan. Zest the clementines over the top, then squeeze in the juice and scrape in the pulp. Add the sugar, ground cloves, ginger, cinnamon and cayenne pepper. Pour over the vinegar and sprinkle in the salt. Leave over a low heat and stir occasionally letting it bubble away uncovered for about 1 hour until it is thick and pulpy. Spoon into hot, sterilised jars. Seal and decorate. Once cool, keep in a dark cool place to mature for 2 weeks and keep in the fridge once opened.
living nikki legon’s cuisine | 39
Brandied Cranberry Sauce 250g cranberries 300ml water 4 tbsp light brown sugar 2 tbsp cognac 3 slices of orange peel METHOD Add all of the ingredients to a small pan and cook over a low heat, stirring, for 5 minutes until the cranberries burst. Store in a jar in the fridge.
Chicken Liver Parfait A beautiful, smooth, rich pâté 225g unsalted butter 225g chicken livers, membranes removed 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs of thyme salt and pepper 1 shallot, peeled and finely diced 1 garlic clove, finely diced 2 tbsp pineau 2 tbsp cognac 1 tbsp crème fraîche freshly grated nutmeg METHOD Melt 25g butter in a large frying
Hot Chilli Chutney 10 chopped red chillies, seeds in or out depending on your preference 2 large onions, peeled and chopped finely 300ml cider vinegar 100ml water ½ tsp garam masala 4 tbsp light brown sugar 2 cooking apples, peeled cored and chopped finely 1 courgette, chopped finely
pan over a medium heat, add the shallot and cook for 2 minutes. Add the chicken livers and all of the herbs, season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Fry for 3 minutes, turning the livers halfway through. Add the pineau and cognac flambé and cook for a further 2 minutes. Add the mix to a blender, removing bay leaf and thyme. Add the crème fraîche and purée until very smooth. Leave to cool for 10 minutes in the blender. Add the rest of the soft butter and blend again until really smooth and creamy. Add a grinding of nutmeg, adjust the seasoning and spoon into your jars. Seal with melted butter, decorate with a bay leaf and pink peppercorns and store in the fridge.
1 carrot, peeled and chopped finely 2 bay leaves 1 clove of garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 tbsp crushed coriander seeds METHOD Add all the chopped ingredients to a large pan with the bay leaves and water. Bring to the boil, lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 1½ hours stirring occasionally, till soft and thick. Remove the bay leaves and spoon the mixture into clean sterilised jars.
Hot Chilli Chutney This chutney improves over time, store in a dark cool place to mature for 2 weeks before serving with cold meats and cheese, or turkey sandwiches. Once opened, it will last for 6 to 8 weeks if kept in the fridge.
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50 | living OUTDOOrs
Sweet Chestnuts flowering in the Ardèche
OUTDOORS
Fruit of theForest Winter wouldn’t be the same
without them, and in remoter areas of France chestnuts were for centuries an essential food resource
C
Could there be any more uplifting sensation during the otherwise bleak midwinter than the aroma of chestnuts slowly roasting on a log fire? Probably not, so we felt that it was high time we got into the spirit of the season with a timely celebration of chestnuts in France – as you’ll see, it’s a remarkable story, starting with the trees which bear the fruit. The Sweet Chestnut is unquestionably one of the most handsome of all the trees in the forest, and once established, and given the right location, they can be surprisingly productive. The fruits, known as marrons, are borne on un châtaignier, while un marronier produces inedible ‘conkers’ – and if you think that’s confusing, see our factfile panel for
www.livingmagazine.fr
living OUTDOOrs | 51
more about the linguistic complexity surrounding our old friends, the chestnuts. France is Europe’s fourth largest producer of whole chestnuts, with almost 6,000 tonnes annually, to say nothing of what is processed into flour, biscuits, desserts, liquor, purée (crème de marrons) and other confections. Around 18% of French production originates from our own region, particularly the great forests of Limousin and Périgord. Ideally the trees prefer to grow at between 300 and 800m altitude, on a neutral or slightly acid soil but are obviously perfectly happy to develop their extensive root systems in our slightly alkaline soils. To prove the point, 18th century records tell us that chestnut forests covered around 40% of the Limousin and Dordogne landscapes,
and the chestnut remains the former’s regional emblem. Further south, le Périgord Noir has steadily increased the territory devoted to chestnut production, the new territories taking the form of more regimented orchard-style plantations which are much easier to manage. That includes the method of gathering the fruits – now larger producers can be spared the traditional back-breaking work of gathering them by hand from the forest floor. Instead they’re either collected by something resembling a mechanical road-sweeper, or fall from the trees onto long nets laid on the ground to catch the fruits, to be drawn like a conveyor-belt and dropped neatly into a trailer. They’re then transported for de-husking, cleaning, quality control (to remove any which show signs of insect attack) and packing.
HOMME VERT Garden design, hard landscape construction and planting service based in Montmoreau (16). Kew trained, RHS show garden contractor & designer, 30+ years’ experience. Full references available. Richard 07 88 29 54 37 richard@boisbourdeau.fr www.boisbourdeau.fr Siret: RCS Angoulême 851 973 198 00019
To see more traditional chestnut forests at their most magnificent, however, it’s worth planning an autumnal trip further afield to southern France, where the transition from green to fiery reds and golds will take your breath away. The sheer scale of the vast, mature forests which fill the mountainous landscapes in and around the Cévennes and the Ardèche makes it hard to believe that much of what we’re seeing is in fact the result of man’s handiwork. While they were well known to travellers following the pilgrimage routes which passed through them, these remote areas weren’t viable for settlement. During the 10th century, however, the climate became less harsh, encouraging the establishment of village communities, whose food sources included fruit, vegetables,
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HOME SWEET (COLOURFUL?) HOME It would be fair to say that most of us have spent much more time this year at home than normal....and for many of us the enforced lockdown gave us the opportunity to give our homes a little TLC. We ourselves did plenty of painting & decorating, especially during the early weeks, and decided to use strong, bold colours - not our normal style but perhaps it was a reaction to the situation we were in....an unconscious decision to lift the spirits! We are slowly seeing some more colour coming back into carpets too....not everything has to be grey or beige! Look at these 2 of our suppliers – Adam Carpets & Westex Carpets – literally hundreds of colours across their ranges, all available anywhere in France. If you want to see samples of these, or any other examples, give us a call and we’ll make a free, no obligation visit. Makes yours a HOME SWEET (COLOURFUL?) HOME this year!
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