A one-off in South Tyrol: Even camels graze on the Malga Tuff pastures in summer. They are Tuff Sepp’s pride and joy.
Tuff Sepp Josef Haselrieder, tenant of the Malga Tuff mountain hut high above Fiè allo Sciliar, puts his all into taking care of his guests. As a practically minded man, he makes his way towards his goals with a clear mind and unerring accuracy.
W When the door to “Paul’s Café” swings open and Tuff Sepp comes in, booming out a hearty “Good morning!” the much-frequented venue in Fiè springs to life. You can neither miss nor ignore Tuff Sepp, and most of the time, along with a fiery temperament, he is the bringer of cheer and all the latest news. Josef Haselrieder, to give him his official name, is the living antithesis to the somewhat reserved people of Fiè. His story is the tale of a man who knows how to seize the day, and in the course of his life - despite the occasional setback – he has built up a small empire through hard work and cheerful optimism. “Success doesn’t just come of its own accord,” he says. “I’ve had luck and a supportive family on my side too.” And that brings us to the tale of a digger-driver turned innkeeper and farmer: “Tuff Sepp.”
Josef Haselrieder, born in 1967 in Val di Vizze in the Wipptal Valley, was four years old when he moved to Fiè allo Scilliar with his mother Vroni. Even in primary school Josef and his cousin Peter were seen as somewhat “exotic,” as their dialect was a little different from that of their classmates. Sepp is proud of his heritage, and if anything ever winds him up – well, he can always put it down to not understanding the local ways. Text: Elisabeth Augustin Photo: Helmuth Rier
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In the 1970s, Sepp was already hard at work in the Rifugio Bolzano mountain hut. The mountain hut,
famed far beyond the borders and located at an altitude of 2,457 metres on the high plateau of the Sciliar, was run for many years by Sepp’s Aunt Hilde and her husband Rudl. He loved spending time on the mountain, and even as a young lad, busied himself in the kitchen and dining room. This period of his life was followed by a number of magical summers spent at the lower-lying Malga Tuff mountain hut, which Sepp’s parents leased. In the summer months, it was also home to a shepherd who looked after the cows and calves of the Fiè farmers. From July to mid-August, Sepp and his siblings Oswald, Heidi and Manfred spent their summer holidays free from care amongst the grazing animals and the guests who had made their way to the Tuffalm. “My mother served the hungry hikers Kaiserschmarrn (Emperor’s Mess) or speck and cheese,” recalls Sepp. “And on Sundays there was always goulash,” he adds with shining eyes. “When I was a boy, it was my job to get the fresh bread from the village and bring it back to the mountain hut. It sometimes took a while, and the guests were already eating by the time I got back,” he says. But who could possibly have been angry with the roguish young lad? At the age of 14, Josef Haselrieder was taken on as a pipelayer’s apprentice with a company in Fiè. Given that business was not exactly booming in the mid-1980s, after his military service Sepp »
Summer | ALPE 21
Welcoming hosts: Josef and Rosalinde Haselrieder at their beloved Malga Tuff.
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changed career and began work with an excavation company in Siusi. “I liked working with the big machines far more than laying pipes,” he says. For ten years, digger driving was his great passion in life. At that time, Sepp married Rosalinde, a vivacious young woman from Fiè who worked for the local municipality. “We went to primary school in Fiè together, and I had my eye on her then,” rhapsodises Sepp. The wedding bells rang out in 1993 and just one year later their son Hannes was born, followed by their daughter Elisa in 1997 and late-arrival Peter, who came along ten years later.
Sciliar is a stronghold of sledging, and is home to a number of famed lugers of recent decades. One of these is Sepp’s brother Oswald, who, together with his partner Gerhard Plankensteiner, won the bronze medal in the doubles event at the 2006 Turin Winter Olympics. The demands of a professional luge track, however, were incompatible with the principles of the Sciliar-Catinaccio nature reserve, where the Rifugio Bolzano mountain hut, the Malga Tuff and Laghetto di Fiè Lake are located: Certain constraints are imposed here which are, likewise, not always in synch with Josef Haselrieder’s plans.
A place of happy childhood days. In 1996, the local council of Fiè allo Sciliar was looking for a new tenant for the Malga Tuff mountain hut. Anton Mahlknecht, better known as “Sieberer Toni,” saw in Josef Haselrieder the perfect successor to farm the Malga Tuff, and encouraged him to put his name forward. “It wasn’t an easy decision,” says Sepp. “Aunt Hilde and my dad thought I should go for it, but my mother and my wife weren’t so keen.” However, the allure of returning to this special spot where Sepp had spent such a happy childhood was too much to resist: It couldn’t fail to be the right decision. So off he went to the spartan alpine hut, with his parents providing invaluable help in the kitchen and serving guests. With his warm hospitality the dedicated landlord was a great hit, and it wasn’t long before the number of guests began to rise steadily. On receiving a heartfelt welcome and a shot of grappa to go along with it, guests felt at home instantly. In time, Sepp’s wife Rosalinde joined the business, and the once-modest alpine hut became a favoured destination with locals and holidaymakers alike. Today, the Haselrieders can depend on countless loyal guests, including many South Tyroleans and hikers from the neighbouring Trentino at the weekends. The wide forest path leading from the Laghetto di Fiè Lake towards the Sciliar is a relatively easy one to tackle. The walk up to the Malga Tuff at 1,270 metres takes around 30 minutes and, in winter, the downhill return is great fun on a sledge. Running alongside the forest road the former luge track, which had to be closed down for safety reasons many years ago, can still be seen today. Fiè allo
Repeatedly throughout his working life, Sepp has had cause to recall that the balance between economy and ecology is a sensitive topic, but one which he has never been afraid to broach with nature reserve managers. “In the end, however, we’ve always managed to find a compromise,” he admits. Guests come to listen to music and dance on Thursdays, or to the Tuff Festival in September every year. “We try not to be too loud,” says the hard-working host. The local council is the owner of the alpine hut, and Sepp the leaseholder. He has been the Tuff landlord for almost 25 years now, and it’s time significant investments were made, he says. The roof is in need of repair, and they need a garage for the machinery. Change, however, is not necessarily in the interest of the Department for Nature Parks. Sepp’s son Hannes has taken command of the Malga Tuff kitchen. The talented young chef serves up traditional dishes with his own special twist, and his repertoire covers everything from speck dumplings and Schlutzkrapfen spinach-stuffed ravioli, to crispy pork ribs with grilled vegetables, to homemade buckwheat cake and the ever-popular apple strudel. Quality is of the essence for the landlord at the Malga Tuff, and locally-sourced products are used whenever possible. “Food should also be reasonably priced,” says Sepp. “And it has to be fast. People don’t have the patience to wait nowadays.” The importance of being friendly. Josef Haselrieder demands immense dedication from his employees, along with good manners and the appropriate appearance. On Thursdays and Sundays serv- »
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“Sepp the Farmer.” The Haselrieder family built a mountain tavern and apartments at the “Pitschlmann” farm. Rosalinde has taken over the business and now leads the second important and growing source of the family’s income. For a long time, the Tuff “empire” has also managed the council-owned swimming hut at Laghetto di Fiè Lake. Run by Sepp’s daughter Elisa, the popular hut offers a variety of refreshments and delicacies at the small swimming lake in Fiè allo Sciliar. The family has also managed the Laghetto di Fiè Lake car park for a number of years. “My mother Vroni particularly likes that. She likes to be in company, and is also fairly inquisitive,” smiles Sepp. Sepp is very close to his mother, who many take for his sister (which, needless to say, fills her with pride). Sepp Haselrieder loves people, and he loves his job as host. Wherever Tuff Sepp is, you’ll find the action.
ing staff wear a dirndl or lederhosen and, naturally, a friendly smile. “I’m a stickler for details too,” says Sepp. He always sees if a glass is not quite right or the flower arrangement is not perfect. Nevertheless, to the employees he is “Sepp” and not “the boss.” His authority is natural and comes partly from his clear ideas and partly from his forthright nature. “I am like a father to some of them. That, amongst other things, makes us all one big family.” Tuff Sepp always takes the time to talk to his guests, and enjoys a chat. His friendliness is an enormous asset, and he always has a ready joke and a quick answer. “The guests are a challenge,” he says. “If you are not quick off the mark as a host, you’re lost.” He is well-known in the local area, as he also likes to spend his free time in South Tyrol. “I’m very lucky in that I remember faces well,” he says, adding with a wink: “But it’s always easier to remember women.” When asked about his weaknesses, he admits that he can be “a bit obnoxious” when he’s had a drink too many, and regrets it the next day. He’s not a grudge-holder though, and prefers to clear up any misunderstandings as and when they happen. When it comes to opportunities, Josef Haselrieder hasn’t let one slip by him: the Curia sold a fouracre property next to his home in Fiè a few years ago, where he built a farm and, with it, became
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The large family counts several animals. Sepp loves animals, “especially unusual ones,” he says. When he brought a white pony back from a trip to visit his daughter Elisa in Germany 20 years ago, he created quite a stir in the mountain village of Fiè. People were no less astonished, including Sepp himself, when employees, family and friends gave him two camels for his 50th birthday two years ago, thus fulfilling a long-nurtured dream for the pet owner. At the moment, Josef Haselrieder is the only South Tyrolean to keep camels; he has already been the source of a flurry of media interest and taken on bookings for the World Cup race in nearby Val Gardena. Sepp waxes lyrical about how easy it is to care for these magnificent animals that graze on the Tuff pastures in summer. He also has a petting zoo with three donkeys, rabbits, a pony, sheep and hens and owns four alpacas, three Noriker and two Haflinger horses, a dog and two cats. His little zoo gives the innkeeper and farmer great joy and, if he has his way, it will get bigger still. Whatever the case, the numerous animals at the Malga Tuff are absolute stars and immensely popular photo opportunities with guests from city and countryside alike. Nothing ever seems to be too much for Tuff Sepp. He is brimming over with strength and ingenuity. Not even envious people put Sepp off his stride: “People often don’t see what’s behind it,” says Sepp. Success doesn’t just come from hard work and assertiveness. “It was good luck too,” he says. “A lot of people would say, ‘If you’re successful, you’re not going to be popular everywhere,’ but I can live with that,” he laughs. «