AFTEX Issue 3 2014 Cover_cover.qxd 05/09/2014 10:05 Page 1
ISSUE THREE 2014 TROISIÈME EDITION 2014
Spotlight on South Africa Preview of Cinte Techtextil China 2014 Going back to the basics Pleins feux sur l’Afrique du sud Prévue de Cinte Textil China 2014 Se concentrer sur l'essentiel
Water-free dyeing techniques Techniques de teinture sans eau
Cinte Techtextil China 2014 is going to be a big opportunity for buyers and exhibitors
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CONTENTS Developments
4
News, updates and market reports
Développements
4
Revue des récents projets textiles, marchés, contrats
Spotlight on South Africa
6
Textile industry shows signs of resurgence
Pleins feux sur l’Afrique du Sud
6
L'industrie textile montre des signes de réapparition
Investment in Africa
7
Asian investment in the African textile market
Investissement en Afrique
7
L’investissement asiatique ans le marché textile africain
Water-free dyeing techniques
12
Superficial carbon dioxide gives colour to fabric
Techniques de teinture sans eau
12
Le dioxyde de carbone superficiel donne la couleur à l'étoffe
Cinte Techtextil China 2014
16
Shanghai gears up to host the biggest expo
Cime Techtextil China 2014
16
Shanghai se prépare à accueillir la plus grande expo
Basics of factory management
20
Principles of factory organisation
Notions de base de gestion d'usine
20
Principes d'organisation d’usine
Cover: Water-free dyes Inset: Cinte Techtextil China 2014
Cover: Teinture sans eau Inset: Cinte Techtextil China 2014
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TEXTILE NEWS Angolan textile mill to reopen after 14 years AFRICA TEXTIL LOCATED in Angola’s Benguela will resume operations after 14 years. Once fully operational, the mill will spin 11,000 tonnes of cotton per year, produce 12mn pieces of towels and 120,000 cotton blankets. The reopening of the mill is part of the government’s strategy to rehabilitate the Angolan textile industry. The Japanese Bank for International Cooperation (JBIC) has financed its reconstruction and modernisation.
TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER September 2014 24 - 26
SOUTH AFRICA’S TRADE and industry minister Rob Davies stated that the government will support investments in clothing and textile over the next year. According to the minister, the plan to support investments could become the ‘centrepiece of the department of trade and industry’s work’ by the end of the five-year Industrial Policy Action Plan in 2014. It is through the efforts of the DTI that the country has mitigated the decline of its clothing and textile sector, he added. The clothing and textiles sector absorbs labour and has been successfully stabilised through the introduction of a number of measures like improved monitoring of imports to ensure compliance with customs and excise regulations and to reduce unfair and illegal imports, designation of the sector under the Preferential Procurement Policy Framework Act (PPPFA), collaboration with key retailers to encourage local procurement and the introduction of the Clothing & Textile Competitiveness Programme (CTCP). Davies added that DTI would also ensure that the South African government procured 75 per cent of its goods and services from local companies.
Shanghai, China
October 2014 16 - 19
OTM 2014
Gaziantep, Turkey
www.otm2014.com
21 - 24
South Africa to support textile investments
Cinte Techtextil China www.techtextilchina.com
IGATEX Pakistan 2014
Lahore, Pakistan
www.igatex.pk
November 2014 3-4
International Textile Fair Dubai
Dubai, UAE
www.internationaltextilefair.com
4-6
Texworld Istanbul
Istanbul, Turkey
www.messefrankfurt.com
10 - 12
ORIGIN AFRICA
Nairobi, Kenya
www.originafrica.org
19 - 21
FESPA China 2014
Guangzhou, China
www.fespa.com
December 2014 1-2
IWTO Wool Round Table
Brussels, Belgium
www.iwto.org
January 2015 5-7
Beltwide Cotton Conference
Texas, USA
www.cotton.org
February 2015 4-6
ExpoProducción
Mexico City, Mexico
www.expoproduccion.com/
March 2015
East African countries seek foreign investment EAST AFRICAN NATIONS are pursuing foreign investors to revive the apparel industry. John Walugembe, executive director of the Uganda Small Scale Industries Association (USSIA), appreciated the government’s decision to engage with foreign investors by organising trade missions to encourage bilateral agreements. The landlocked country has a vast labour supply and a growing middle class. The US-East African Community Trade and Investment Framework Agreement (TIFA), Uganda is working to lower the cost of executing business in the country. In Kenya, the Ministry of Industrialisation and Enterprise Development has earmarked the textiles and apparel sub-sector as a potential driver of economic growth through its National Industrialisation Roadmap. The government has provided land in the Export Processing Zone in Athi River near Nairobi, to construct a textile manufacturing hub. It has also planned to upgrade Kenya’s ‘northern corridor’ transport links between Nairobi, port of Mombasa and the border port of Malaba.
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10 - 12
JEC Europe Composites Show & Conferences
Versailles, Paris
www.jeccomposites.com
April 2015 7 - 10
Tecnotêxtil Brasil 2015
Sao Paulo, Brazil
www.tecnotextilbrasil.com.br/inicio
May 2015 5-7
Techtextil 2015
Frankfurt, Germany
www.techtextil.messefrankfurt.com
June 2015 15 - 18
ShanghaiTex 2015
Shanghai, China
www.shanghaitexonline.com
November 2015 12 - 19
ITMA 2015
Milan, Italy
www.itma.com
Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy (Commercial Office) of the country in question. Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés de l’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE 2014
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TEXTILE NEWS US and African textile manufacturers keen to renew AGOA MEMBERS OF THE African textile industry have shown keenness to see how the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) gets renewed. The AGOA runs has been legally functional from 2000 and is due for renewal on 30 September 2015. The United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) joined six US and African fashion and retail trade organisations in a call for immediate renewal of the AGOA. The organisations also called for long-term renewal of the programme for at least 15 years – including the third-country fabric provision – and extension of the third-country fabric provision to all AGOA beneficiaries. Julia K Hughes, president of the USFIA, said, “AGOA not only allows US companies to produce quality, affordable apparel for their customers, but also provides muchneeded jobs and economic opportunities in subSaharan Africa.” However, these opportunities are at stake as the expiration date looms. In a recent benchmarking study done by the USFIA, fashion executives remarked that they want to continue sourcing from the AGOA region, and even place more orders. But without duty-free treatment, sourcing apparel from the region is cost-prohibitive for many fashion brands and retailers. ince they plan their sourcing six to twelve months in advance, many are already considering leaving the region altogether. At a trade show in South Africa, industry heads converged to understand how the renewal of AGOA would benefit Africa. Currently, exports from Africa to the US under AGOA have grown by 500 per cent from US$8.15bn in 2001 to US$53.8bn in 2011. Inputs from the African textile industry alone amounted to US$1bn. However, despite the growth, the African share of the US markets amounts to only one per cent – this means there is ample opportunity for African textile manufacturers to increase their share in the US market. There is concern among large sections of African textile majors regarding the manner of renewal. Steve Lamar, executive vice president of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), said, “The question is not whether it gets renewed, but more how it’s renewed,” said Lamar, adding that complications that became apparent during the outgoing first phase of the agreement must be ironed out.
South African designer wins accolades for native collection DESIGNER LADUMA NGXOKOLO, who belongs to the Xhosa ethnic group in South Africa, showcased his native collection at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Johannesburg. Ngxokolo created a colourful range of knitwear which highlighted the Xhosa culture. The designer conceptualised his collection based on a project titled The Colourful World of Xhosa Culture while studying textile design and technology at the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University in Port Elizabeth. In 2010, the the project won the South African Society of Dyers and Colourists’ design competition and the success of the project led to the creation of his label MaXhosa. “I decided to develop a Xhosa-inspired collection of knitwear using traditional Xhosa beadwork, colours and motifs. I wanted to call the name of my brand MaXhosa by Laduma because I wanted to showcase the astonishing beauty of
Designer Laduma Ngxokolo’s designs from the Xhosa collection, which won rave reviews in Johannesburg
the Xhosa people and translate it in a modern way that appeals to the current youth, who are influenced by international trends,” said the young designer in an interview with BBC.
Swaziland’s cotton farmers prepare harvest for collection SWAZILAND’S COTTON FARMERS have been paid US$846.344 for their harvest, as they continue to prepare their harvest for collection. Local reports in the southern African nation stated that the farmers received more money than they anticipated. They have been paid for over 600 metric tonnes of harvested cotton but are waiting for more yields. Daniel Khumalo, CEO of Swaziland Cotton Board stated that farmers preferred to keep their harvest and sell it to the board when they needed the money. As they need to transport the crop to the ginnery, farmers have provided contractual employment to industrialists, who own trucks, to collect the cotton from the farmers living in all the four regions of the country. Due to these arrangements with the truck owners, the country’s Cotton Board has disbursed about US$56.446 to the truck owners for collecting cotton directly from the farmers and transporting the same to the ginnery. Operating in this manner was easier on farmers as they would not have to bear the transportation costs as the board took the responsibility to collect the packaged cotton from them, and settled the full amount for their harvest. The country has faced a shortfall in the production of cotton due to Due to a shortfall in cotton production, drought, so the board is exploring the Swaziland Cotton Board is keen to the introduction of genetically try genetically modified cotton modified cotton in the country. The CEO said the environmental laws of the country do not allow them to use the available short season cotton variety since they were genetically modified. Khumalo said the board has applied to the Swaziland Environmental Authority (SEA).
Rwanda signs US$10mn deal with Chinese garments company THE GOVERNMENT OF Rwanda has signed a US$10mn deal with a Chinese garments manufacturing company C&H to set up a textile manufacturing unit at the Kigali Special Economic Zone. Through this unit, Rwanda can export textile garments to Europe and USA, and eventually boost the local
manufacturing sector. Authorities from the government stated that 1,000 Rwandanese will be employed, and this number is likely to rise to 30,000 in five years. The facility would be operational in one-and-a-half years and the government has agreed to cover 50 per cent of the training cost. Meanwhile, the investor will
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE 2014
supply equipment and additional expertise. The director of C&H Garments Company stated that the new textile unit is likely to open up more investments into the country. The industry is a high employment sector and is becoming increasingly more important in the East African region as economies develop.
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SPOTLIGHT ON SOUTH AFRICA
Textile industry gaining traction By Robert Adams After years being retrenched, the South African clothing industry is now showing signs of resurgence. With encouraging export figures from 2013, experts are hopeful that the industry can eventually contribute to the country’s economy as well
M
ORE THAN A decade of stagnant wages, job cuts and factory closures has passed, but there’s no doubt now that the South African textile and clothing industry is looking up. However, formidable problems relating to further import substitution remain to be solved before the industry makes its traditionally major contribution to increase national prosperity. The good news is that the economy – considered one of the high-growth BRICS nations – is doing well and the international community finds South Africa an attractive place to invest in once again. Growth is accelerating as inflation and prime lending rates continue to fall. In addition, the weakening Rand has helped exporters regain their competitiveness over the past year, especially as manufacturing costs rise rapidly in China. Specifically in these industries, the turnaround owes greatly to the government’s long-running clothing and textile competitiveness and related programmes. But most of the consumption is still being enjoyed by the middle classes, who largely buy factory-fresh apparel. The level of long-term unemployment continues to be unacceptably high, which a South African publication has termed as ‘jobless economic growth’. However, “a silver lining is beginning to emerge” stated a government spokesperson to a local newspaper Cape Times in March 2014. Diminished maybe, but the textile and clothing sectors are making an important contribution to employment creation, especially amongst women. In August 2014, the WTO released figures for trade performance in 2013. The exports of textiles themselves nearly doubled year-on-year (YoY) to US$425mn, with foreign clothing business doing even better at US$503mn (more than three times). Both were the best performances in years, although imports continue to exceed exports by a wide margin, and non value-added raw materials like wool and cotton play a big part in trade flows. A key stimulant for all this has been the official support measures mentioned above, including the Manufacturing Investment Programme and the Production Incentive Scheme – both of which are running out of time. The Textile Federation acknowledges that its members have shifted from being one of South Africa’s largest sectoral employers to an also-ran and being reliant on cotton imports to keep their remaining under-performing mills in action. But in the strength of the local retail market, it sees plenty of silver linings round the corner, too. The National Clothing Retail Federation has commented recently on a growing yet highly competitive domestic market, which now sees its priority as managing the risks of fashion through import substitution. This is in addition to supporting local manufacturers as well. According to the retail body, the local industry has a key advantage over foreign competition. This is the very short (just a few days) lead-time for introducing “hot” items reported from Milan and Paris, which are in demand in the Rainbow Nation’s bustling malls. Nevertheless, “local suppliers are under increasing pressure from higher operating costs, expensive raw materials and lack of investment in technology to remain competitive with international counterparts,” said officials from the retail organisation.
6
A large part of South Africa’s middle class still buys factory-fresh apparel
As a result, “ensuring sustainability of the local supply base” is seen as one of its key objectives, it added. The federation represents the interests of 80,000 employees in the apparel trade, including manufacturers in the Eastern Cape. Credit risk is seen as a subsidiary but a specific problem right now. However, one thorny issue remains to be resolved – the uncertainty about South Africa’s continuing inclusion within the US Congress-approved African Growth & Opportunity Act (AGOA). This is the non-reciprocal preferential trade scheme, which supports garment exports to the world’s largest single apparel market. At the recent Africa-US Summit, relations with Washington could have been better, and there are widespread fears that South Africa could follow Swaziland out of the entire export-promoting scheme altogether – it is due for renewal in 2015 anyway. On the contrary, South Africa has some good friends in the US capital, such as the Corporate Council on Africa, and AGOA is less important to local clothing exporters than it is to other sub-Saharan states. How is it possible to see the products of South Africa’s textile and clothing industries under one roof in the upcoming fashion season? Not surprisingly, the trade shows relate to the design and retail ends of the business. The annual 100% Design SA Johannesburg show closed on 10 August 2014 – it is always a good place to see both fabrics and clothing, but only amongst all the other product ranges. From 13 to 15 November 2014, Garments & Textiles is being held in Johannesburg and this is essentially about sourcing apparel from China. A complementary Fashion Accessories show will be held nearby at the same time. The World Retail Congress Africa is being held in the city between 18 and 19 November 2014. And finally, the comprehensive SAITEX retail trade show is not due to be held again until June 2015. A South African publication said that the SA economy suffers from being like a double-decker bus, with the middle classes who support the retail apparel trade seated firmly on top. The trouble is, “The bus has no stairs”. ❑
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INVESTMENT IN AFRICA
Leaning on Africa’s abundance Asian countries are exceedingly keen to invest in Africa’s booming cotton textile industry, owing to a high demand in the Asian textile industry
A
MONG SEVERAL INDUSTRIES, textile and apparel is synonymous with Africa currently. Developing labour-intensive sectors like textile and apparel is considered a step ahead to catch up with advanced economies – Japan, China and the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) have all done the same – commonly called the flying geese pattern. Now, Africa is actively promoting industrialisation and countries are developing the manufacturing sector, in order to make the transition from an agrarian economy to a industrial one. In a research paper titled The Impact of Asian Investment on Africa’s Textile Industries, Tang Xiaoyang, resident scholar at the Carnegie-Tsinghua Center for Global Policy, has explained how investments have influenced the cotton industry in southeast Africa Africa is undergoing rapid industrialisation, and the textile industry is contributing to this growth in a notable manner. Xiaoyang, in his paper, has explained how Asian companies are playing a particularly intriguing role in Africa’s ongoing industrialisation process. He has focused on southeast Africa, often considered a “microcosm” to understand the impact Asia has had on the cotton-textile-apparel value chain in Africa. “The value chain from cotton farming to textile processing and to apparel making plays a significant role in the economic life of the countries in this region, notably Botswana, Lesotho, Malawi, Mozambique, South Africa, Swaziland, Tanzania, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. The development of the cotton-textile-apparel value chain in this region can comprehensively and significantly shape the socio-economic life in its rural and urban areas,” wrote Xiaoyang. Aside from trade, investment from Asian countries is also shaping the development of the whole cotton-textile-apparel value chain in southeast Africa. With production costs rising in China, economists believe that Africa should take over apparel manufacturing. Several researchers have analysed the growing importance of Asian players in Africa’s cotton-textile-apparel value chain. Curran and Taylor, focused on the movement of Asian investors before and after the Multi-Fiber Arrangement ended. Brooks and Lee studied labour relations in Chinese textile mills in Zambia and Tanzania, respectively. However, no one has undertaken a study with the aim of establishing a systematic understanding of the impact of Asian investment in different sectors of the southeast African economy, to try to analyse how such engagement will influence overall development of the region’s cotton-textile-apparel value chain and whether it will contribute to the economic growth of the region over the long term. The research paper has ascertained that the analysis of the African cotton sector is mainly limited to Zambia and Tanzania. Both countries liberalised their cotton sector in the mid 1990s, and the markets are open for domestic and foreign investors. Multinational companies have shown interest in entering the local market to purchase and export cotton. The earliest foreign investors in this region are multinationals from the United States, Europe, or neighbouring African countries. Among them are Cargill and Dunavant in Zambia, Alliance in Kenya and Biosustain in Tanzania. Asian investors began participating in the mid-2000s. Chinese-owned Chipata Cotton Company (CCC) started acquisition of cotton in the Chipata region of Zambia and quickly expanded to Zimbabwe, Malawi, and Mozambique. Several Chinese companies have since arrived in Zambia, Tanzania and Zimbabwe. Seeing their success, a number of ginners – people who operate cotton gins – arrived in the region from India around 2011 and 2012. Singapore-based Olam International has developed an extensive presence in Zambia, Tanzania, and Zimbabwe. The arrival of Asian buyers in the region is mainly driven by the rising demand of the Asian textile industry. China has become the world’s largest cotton consumer, and because the domestic cotton price in recent years has been much higher than the price in the international market, cotton export
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE 2014
Multinational companies from the US, Europe and Africa are keen to purchase and export cotton from the continent
to China has become highly profitable. The booming textile industries in Southeast Asia and South Asia also need a huge amount of cotton, though the amount of cotton going there is smaller and fluctuates greatly, while China has been steadily increasing its sourcing from Africa. However, the market situation in Tanzania looks different. Most international cotton companies in southern Africa stay away because of the unique, centralised structure of Tanzania’s cotton sector. Ginners are permitted to contract with growers, but are not permitted to provide their own seeds, inputs (pesticide, herbicide, fertiliser), and technical assistance directly to the Tanzanian farmers. Instead, they have to contribute funds to the Tanzania Development Trust, which in turn procures inputs, distributes seeds, and provides technical assistance to the farmers. Under this system, the ginners bear half of the input costs and the farmers bear the other half, but the farmers’ portion is collected by the ginners. The Tanzanian cotton authority argues that with the scale of this centralised system, chemical materials can be procured in bulk, reducing the cost. Yet, in practice, the ginners find that they cannot get the cotton as contracted. In part, this is because the technical input and assistance are not provided efficiently. Quality control and grading have become loose since the old regulation and monitoring system collapsed after liberalisation. Farmers add water to cotton and various grades are mixed. Some ginners have grabbed the farmers’ contribution for their own pockets. The farmers, meanwhile, complain about low prices and breach of contract by ginners. All of this leads to further mistrust between ginners and farmers. In this context, most international companies hesitate to enter the market. Not counting investors from neighbouring countries, only one multinational company, Olam, was active in the Tanzania cotton market. But even Olam is said to have downsized its activities since 2012 due to the difficult market conditions. As a result, most of the 42 ginneries in Tanzania are small and medium-sized local companies, many based on former cooperatives. Nevertheless, Dahong Textile decided in April 2013 to invest in Tanzania’s Shinyanga Province by setting up a ginnery and spinning mill. Tanzania’s low cotton price and cheap labour cost were particularly attractive to the Chinese textile company. It has plans to demonstrate and disseminate advanced cotton plantation skills to Tanzanian farmers to improve the quality and production of cotton. The Japanese firm Nitori took a different approach to investing in Tanzania. In May 2013, the company’s managing director asked President Jakaya Kikwete, who was visiting Japan, to allocate 20,000 ha where Nitori could grow cotton. Nitori also announced a plan to invest US$100mn in Tanzania to set up a ‘fully-fledged textile industry’ that will create thousands of jobs and improve the country’s exports. ❑ Source: carnegietsinghua.org
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PLEINS FEUX SUR L’IRAN
Augmentation de l'activité textile : une nécessité pour l'Iran par Robert Adams 'IRAN FAIT DE nouveau les gros titres avec l'espoir que les industries du textile et de l'habillement, dont l'histoire est longue mais mouvementée, feront partie du « programme d'activités international » destiné à faire sortir la République islamique de son carcan. Tout va dépendre de l'issue, plus tard cette année, de la « levée des sanctions », signée en Suisse en novembre dernier et que notamment l'Union européenne et de nombreux exportateurs de machines appellent de leurs vœux. Beaucoup s'accordent à dire que le « nouveau visage de l'Iran », à savoir le Président Rouhani qui a été élu en 2013, est le bienvenu en tant que nouvel interlocuteur. Marquant le début d'une nouvelle ère pour son pays, le nouveau leader de l'Iran est apparu pour la première fois devant le public international à l'occasion de l'édition de cette année du Forum économique mondial, ce qui a constitué un premier pas. Il s'est en effet déjà entretenu directement, bien que brièvement, avec le Président des États-Unis. La Révolution remonte à 1979 et les sanctions accablantes de la communauté internationale sont en place depuis 1996. Manquant de capitaux et d'équipements, les industries du textile et de l'habillement ont payé un lourd tribut. Ayant employé à leurs plus belles heures plus d'un demi-million de personnes, ces activités centenaires constituaient de loin le secteur de fabrication non pétrolier le plus important du 20e siècle. Après une forte baisse, les effectifs actuels sont inconnus, mais les secteurs du filage et du tissage emploient encore beaucoup de personnes travaillant en particulier avec l'une des plus vastes gammes de fibres naturelles
L
Malheureusement, ces chiffres1 ne donnent aucune indication concernant le commerce international officiel de l'habillement en Iran. Mais tout laisse à penser qu'il est infime. 8
Le tissage de tapis est sans doute une des manifestations les plus distinguées de culture et d'art persans et remonte à la Perse antique
locales au monde, notamment la soie. Beaucoup officient dans la fabrication domestique (c'est-à-dire à très petite échelle), en particulier dans la production de tapis de luxe. Les sanctions économiques ont augmenté la désirabilité et par conséquent la valeur marchande à l'échelle internationale de ces magnifiques articles d'ameublement, notamment dans les pays du Golfe. Toutefois, tous les segments des industries du textile souffrent de la médiocrité et de l'insuffisance des équipements mécaniques actuellement disponibles, de l'absence des indispensables investissements directs provenant de l'étranger et des nombreuses opportunités des zones frontalières poreuses et parfois troublées d'infiltration de tissus et vêtements de tous types. Parallèlement, la monnaie demeure faible, ce qui augmente le coût local des importations officielles. Les problèmes persistants rencontrés en Syrie, pays tout proche, ont sans doute contribué à rendre la situation encore plus confuse étant donné le prétendu engagement de l'Iran en Méditerranée
orientale ; les événements alarmants survenus cette année en Ukraine ont en fait donné naissance à un espoir inattendu étant donné qu'ils ont entraîné une augmentation de la demande internationale concernant le gaz iranien, qui butait depuis longtemps contre le refus d'une grande partie de la communauté internationale. L'an dernier, l'Iran aurait perdu plus de 25 milliards de $, uniquement à cause des sanctions d'embargo sur les exportations de pétrole. Il est urgent que le secteur du textile et de l'habillement retrouve des couleurs pour booster une économie de la fabrication mise à mal et diminuée depuis si longtemps. C'est indéniable : la demande nationale en produits de base est là, mais il manque encore les moyens de l'exploiter pleinement. Pour en savoir plus sur la situation actuelle du commerce du textile, nous devons nous référer à la publication de l'OMC « International Trade Statistics 2013 ». Malheureusement, ces chiffres1 ne donnent aucune indication concernant le commerce international officiel de l'habillement en Iran.
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PLEINS FEUX SUR L’IRAN Mais tout laisse à penser qu'il est infime. Les exportations de textile ont quasiment doublé depuis 1990 pour atteindre 1 097 millions de $ en 2012. Ces chiffres sont largement inférieurs au taux de croissance de l'activité mondiale dans son ensemble, même si l'augmentation annuelle de 17 % en 2012 est très encourageante. Les importations de textile se sont maintenues à un niveau relativement stable, largement inférieur ces trois dernières années. Mais la tragédie réside dans l'incapacité de l'Iran à tirer parti de la forte croissance des ventes internationales de l'habillement depuis l'abandon des contingents AMF. À l'échelle mondiale, les chiffres ont plus que doublé depuis le début du millénaire et le secteur s'avère beaucoup plus lucratif que celui des textiles semi-finis. En Iran, il n'est pas facile de trouver des informations à jour concernant les secteurs industriels. La source la plus fiable semble être l'organisme officiel pour la promotion du commerce2 dont l'un des départements s'occupe des affaires conclues avec les pays africains et arabophones. (tél. : +9821 2266-4010 ou fax : -2566). Le site de cet organisme fournit des informations concernant les différents exportateurs et des répertoires d'entreprises, notamment une
section utile consacrée aux petites entreprises. Il dresse également un inventaire complet des salons (voir ci-dessous). L'Association des industries textiles d'Iran3 représente quelque 400 entreprises individuelles, mais, en dehors de leurs coordonnées, peu d'informations à propos des activités du secteur sont disponibles directement dans la section en anglais du site Web indiqué ci-dessous. Cette année, le salon à ne pas manquer est sans nul doute Irantex 2014 qui couvre l'ensemble des produits, y compris les machines destinées au cuir et au textile (du 17 au 20 novembre). L'an prochain, l'événement incontournable sera la 3e édition
TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 3EME EDITION/2014
du salon spécialisé dans les vêtements iraniens (du 21 au 24 février 2015). Le secteur florissant des tapis semble organiser à part ses principales expositions. Le principal salon consacré au tissage manuel se déroule du 23 au 29 août, tandis que son équivalent pour le tissage machine a lieu du 6 au 9 septembre. Il existe également diverses expositions de tapis régionales. Le site Web de l'association des exportateurs de textile vaut également le détour4. ❑
www.wto.org/statistics www.tpo.ir http://aiti.org.ir www.itema.ir
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TEXTILE NEWS Xerium Technologies to build new facility in Turkey
Global yarn production rises in Q1 2014, states ITMF
US-BASED XERIUM TECHNOLOGIES is setting up a new rolls and mechanical services facility in Corlu, Turkey which will be operational in Q1 2015. In a statement, Xerium Technologies said the facility is under construction. Through the new facility, the company will provide a full suite of patented performance-enhancing roll solutions to customers in the MENA region, and will perform grinding, roll recovering and mechanical services on site. In order to facilitate the processes in machine clothing, roll services and machine automation Xerium Technologies is also increasing sales and service staff for the region, through its SMART Roll sensor solutions. Harold Bevis, CEO of Xerium, said, “We are honoured to be the first major global competitor to build a plant in the region and proud of our relationship with Eren Holding and Modern Karton. We look forward to delivering superior mechanical services, roll covering capabilities, and machine automation services to the region.” Products and services will be delivered through a local workforce familiar with local customs and the plant will be co-located on the grounds of Modern Karton – one of the largest and most integrated producers in the region. He added, “This area of Europe is healthy and growing in the industries we serve. We believe this commitment will bring value to the area for all three of Xerium’s product categories which are roll coverings, mechanical services and machine clothing.” The company uses a broad portfolio of patented and proprietary technologies to provide customers with tailored solutions and products integral to production, which are designed to optimise performance and reduce operational costs.
THE INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) in its latest results says that global yarn production increased in Q1 2014 compared to Q4 2013, due to a high output in Asia, North America and Europe Annually, yarn production increased as well even though output levels were lower in South and North America. Worldwide yarn stocks decreased slightly in comparison to the previous quarter as a result of lower inventories in South America and Europe. Year-on-year (YoY) global stocks jumped with higher stock levels in Asia and Europe and despite lower ones in South America. Yarn orders in Europe and Brazil were up in Q1 2014. However, the report stated that global fabric production was down in Q1 2014 as a consequence of lower fabric production in Asia with South America and Europe recording higher output levels. Year-on-year (YoY) world fabric production decreased slightly with Asia’s output having shrunk, and Europe’s and South America’s having grown. Worldwide fabric stocks were lower in Q1 2014 with South and North America recording lower stock levels, despite higher ones in Asia and Europe. Fabric stocks fell as well as a result of decreasing stocks in South America and despite higher stocks in Asia, North America and Europe. Fabric orders rose in Q1 2014 both in Europe and Brazil. In comparison to Q1 2013, fabric orders were up in Europe and Brazil. Estimates for yarn production for Q2 2014 are positive in Asia and North America, unchanged in South America but negative in Europe. Estimates for fabric production for Q2 2014 are positive in Asia and Europe and unchanged in South America. The outlook for yarn production for Q3 2014 is positive in Asia and unchanged in Europe. The outlook for fabric production for Q3 2014 is positive in Asia and Europe.
Saurer Schlafhorst’s new and only ‘tried and tested’ drumless yarn displacement system PreciFX GERMAN MANUFACTURER perfected package formats with SAURER Schlafhorst has said PreciFX that lead to huge leaps in that its digital displacement efficiency in downstream technology PreciFX is now the processing. The efficiency only tried and tested drumless advantage extends to the yarn displacement system for elimination of entire process steps, bobbin processing. such as the edging of dye Officials from the company said packages, for example. The that 15,000 winding units have innovative yarn displacement been installed. Working with system can coordinate inner selected customers, Schlafhorst structures of a machine and the developed a large number of new, outer shape of the dye package more efficient package formats in optimally to the requirements of the the years following that are only dye shop, allowing for customised possible with PreciFX. Several dyeing patterns. A unique features make PreciFX stand out characteristic of the PreciFX is its from its contemporaies – by the filling function, which ‘tops up’ the use of pattern-free random In liaison with a select set of customers, Saurer Schlafhorst has developed a new drumless outer area of tapered packages winding, precision winding or yarn displacement system, which is cutting edge and innovative with an additional quantity of yarn stepped precision winding, the while guaranteeing superb system enables individual package designs to between the spinning mill, dye shop, warping unwinding properties. The package contents be produced without any compromise being department, doubling mill and weaving mill. are thereby augmented by around 10 per cent. required. Completely new package formats The package build directly affects the By optimising the package design, PreciFX are possible, such as biconical hard packages productivity and efficiency of downstream increases the weight of packages by 10 to 20 or dye packages with round flanks – process stages. PreciFX permits optimisation per cent while retaining the same diametre. This perfection at the touch of a button, flexibility in every direction. Sales spinning mills can makes it an effective cost brake for sales without limits and significantly reduced cover a much wider spectrum of orders on spinning mills with a high outlay on logistics. hardware handling with one system. competitive terms. Vertically integrated For the first time, warping, weaving, knitting Klaus Kamphausen, technology manager companies can make their processes more and doubling mills can define what the ideal at Schlafhorst, said, “The package is the efficient and optimise them.” With their package for their purposes look like, and can decisive interface in the textile process customers, the company has developed and even reinvent these packages.
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TEXTILE NEWS Uster Technologies testers provide accurate data on yarn USTER TECHNOLOGIES’ TESTER 5 and Classimat 5 provide accurate and reliable data on yarn, and are considered among the best yarn testing apparatus. Evenness, imperfections (neps, thin and thick places), hairiness, defects and foreign fibres can be detected by the two devices. These laboratory testing equipment can detect the quality of yarn and even predict what the final fabric will look like. It is widely believed that evenness (CVm) testing could also provide accurate results for the same purpose, but Gabriela Peters, product manager for yarn testing at Uster Technologies has stated that CVm isn’t enough to test other parameters that ascertain the quality of yarn. Comprehensive testing at the Uster Technologies laboratory in Switzerland has shown that yarns with comparable CVm values can produce fabrics with obvious differences in appearance. In the tests, Ne24 cotton yarns from 10 different suppliers had insignificant differences in their CVm values, which could lead to the incorrect conclusion that the fabrics would look the same. Further test data from the Uster Tester 5 showed results for neps which were close in 8 of the 10 cases, in which the yarns had a nep value below the 25 Uster’s User Statistics Percentile (USPTM). “The effort of knitting or weaving a fabric can be reduced to the minimum or eliminated if you have a yarn test report containing reliable information relating to fabric appearance. The Classimat 5 identifies the number of disturbing thick and thin places, helping to assess fabric defects.” The parameters collectively measured by Uster’s Tester 5 and the Classimat 5 can help assess fabric appearance issues and downstream performance. A major breakthrough is the visual display of the ‘yarn body’ and outliers which could otherwise cause quality claims and rejections. Outliers for periodic faults, evenness, imperfections and hairiness are pinpointed, as well as the standard analysis of thick and thin places which is already essential in yarn trading. The device has a new powerful sensor with multi-coloured light source detection, which can differentiate coloured foreign fibres, vegetable matter and, for the first time, polypropylene content.
German technology increases energy efficiency INCREASING PRICES, SPORADIC shortage of energy sources and strict environmental legislations have put Asian textiles producers under pressure to increase productivity. Member companies of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association demonstrated at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014 that latest German technology increases profits by higher energy efficiency. VDMA experts examined the energy saving effects over the entire production chain of three textile products. VDMA’s approach of the analysis is to cover the complete value chains from the raw material to the finished product, like a a functional T-shirt. To manufacture this type of product, the process starts with spinning and texturising of polyester yarn followed by the warp preparation. To produce the textile fabrics, warp-knitting technology is used like an automatic warp knitting machine. In the following process step of textile finishing, this material is washed, dyed black and finished (functionalised by applying special properties such as dirt repellent, waterproof and water vapour permeable layers), dried and finally completed by setting. For all these steps, from filament production to finishing not only the electrical energy consumed – including compressed air and air-conditioning – but also the thermal energies like gas, oil, or steam have been taken into account.
Saving energy in textile processes is an important step ahead for the industry
The all-new myGroBeckhert app on iOS and Android GROZ-BECKHERT, THE LEADER in provision of textile apparatus, relaunched its application myGrozBeckhert at the ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 held in Shanghai in June. The app offers information about the textile value chain, industrial tools and appliances relevant to the textile industry. The maiden version of the app was launched at ITMA Barcelona in 2011. The new version has been upgraded with the latest design and is also more user-friendly. Among the most relevant changes include the textile motives, already known from the Groz-Beckert website. Moreover, the app is more conducive to customer benefits. Not only does the newer version provide user-friendly navigation structure, but
also simplified intuitive user guidance. The use of pictograms eases the operation and orientation significantly, so that the user reaches quickly the desired information and tools faster. In addition, each user can set the app individually according to his interests. Furthermore myGrozBeckert has been extended with new functions and content. For instance, there is a full text indexed search in all areas of the app. In addition, there is a new information portal on the app as well, which summarises updates and news from the textile industry. An overview of the Groz-Beckert product portfolio and the current trade fair appearances have also been added. MyGrozBeckert is available in German, English and Chinese. The improved version is available on smartphones and tablets with the operating systems iOS and Android.
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Frosted Matt’s colourful palette GERMANY’S EMBROIDERY THREAD manufacturer Madeira Garnfabrik has launched a new range of colours called Frosted Matt. The Frosted Matt series is commonly used for logos, embroidered text, design, sports, fashion, clothes and textiles. While combined with threads like classic shiny viscose, polyneon polyester and various other metallic threads from the supertwist range, the Matt series creates striking highlights in embroidery. Frosted Matt 40 is the enlarged selection, with 189 colours, including neon shades as well. These threads are particularly attractive when used for decorative stitching. Highlight enhancement is a key feature of this thread and its structure creates extremely sharp contours. Because it is polyester, Frosted Matt’s chlorine resistance naturally lends itself to many fields of application.
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ECO-FRIENDLY COLOURATION
Water-free dyeing using supercritical carbon dioxide Ian Holme
W
ATER IS A scarce resource in the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) region. It has been estimated that due to population growth, per capita water availability could fall by nearly 50 per cent by 2050. Further, if climate change continues as predicted, it would alter the weather and precipitation patterns. As a result, the MENA region is likely to experience frequent and severe droughts and floods. In 2002, the MENA region had 6.3 per cent of the world's population but only 1.4 per cent of the world's renewable fresh water. Population growth rates in the MENA region are currently around two per cent compared with a world average of 1.1 per cent. The United Nations has predicted that by 2025, 30 countries will face water scarcity, among which 18 countries will be located in the MENA region. Many countries are currently using excess water than what is available. For example, Bahrain used around 220 per cent, Saudi Arabia 943 per cent and Kuwait a staggering 2465 per cent of their available renewable water resources in 2011. Researchers at Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) in Boston have estimated that around five billion (52 per cent) of the world's projected 9.7bn people in 2050 will live in waterstressed areas where demand exceeds surface water supply. A large portion of these regions already face water scarcity, especially India, North Africa and the Middle East. The MENA region's water resources include rivers, wetlands and aquifers. The use of transboundary rivers and aquifers can either lead to competitors and conflict or to cooperation. Some 67 per cent of the Arab world's population is dependent upon water supplies that originate in non-Arab states. Many global climate models have predicted a difficult outlook for the MENA region forecasting hotter, drier weather leading to major precipitation reduction, increase in evaporation and subsequent reductions in both run-off and soil moisture. In the MENA region, some countries or territories like the Gaza strip, Kuwait, Oman, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, the UAE and Yemen have low levels of renewable water resources like rivers. They rely on groundwater and desalination for most of their water supply. Other countries such as Egypt, Iraq, Jordan, Lebanon, the West Bank, and Syria obtain much of their water from river systems that are shared with other countries. The demand for water is considered to be increasing dramatically in all the major use sectors, namely agriculture, energy production, industrial
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DyeCoo machinery being used in a factory in Taiwan
uses and human consumption. Agriculture currently accounts for 70 per cent of all water withdrawn by the combined agriculture, municipal and industrial (including energy) sectors. The global demand for food is estimated to increase by 70 per cent by 2050 and global energy consumption by 50 per cent by 2035 due to population growth and increasing economic activity. Processes like bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing in the textile industry utilise a lot of water and generates pollution that necessitate efficient water treatment and disposal. While strenuous efforts have been made by machinery manufacturers to decrease water usage in textile wet processing, especially in fibre, yarn, fabric and garment dyeing machinery, water is still the main medium of choice for textile wet processing. However other media have been considered for textile dyeing using waterless process machinery. One method that is now emerging as a contender to rival water in the dyeing of synthetic fibres like polyester using disperse dyes is supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2). While supercritical carbon dioxide has been investigated over the last three decades, it is only now that a satisfactory commercial dyeing machine for polyester fabrics has been developed by DyeCOO Textile Systems BV, which is based in The Netherlands.
scCO2 Dyeing It has been estimated that in conventional waterbased dyeing of textiles, some 28bn kg of textiles are dyed each year requiring some 100-150 litres of water per kg. At ITMA 1991 in Hanover, Germany, the company Jasper GmbH & Co (Velen, Germany) exhibited a small semi-technical-scale dyeing
machine for dyeing polyester fabric in supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2). However, many technical problems were encountered and the technology was discontinued by Jasper. Another pilot plant with a 30-litre capacity was exhibited at ITMA 1995 by UHDE Hockdrucktechnik GmbH (Hagen, Germany) in collaboration with the Deutsches Textilforschungszentrum Nord-West eV (Krefeld, Germany). This machine included an extraction cycle for removal and separation of excess dyes and spinning oils during the dyeing process, as well as for cleaning the plant at colour changes and for recycling of carbon dioxide (CO2). A separate dye storage vessel and a pump with a much higher flow rate were also integrated into the dyeing machine. This innovative approach to water-free dyeing is based upon the properties of supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2). Above 31ºC and a pressure of 74 bar, carbon dioxide becomes supercritical – a state of matter that can be viewed as an expanded liquid or alternatively as a heavily compressed gas. Above the critical point, carbon dioxide exhibits the properties of both a liquid and a gas. scCO2 has liquid-like densities that is advantageous for dissolving hydrophobic dyes as well as gas-like low viscosities and diffusion properties, which can result in lower dyeing cycle times compared with aqueous-based dyeing. Thus, the dyeing of polyester using modified disperse dyes can be carried out and the removal of excess dye accomplished in the one machine. A further advantage is that drying of the dyed textile is not required because at the end of the process, the CO2 is released in the gaseous state and this can be recycled (up to 95 per cent) after precipitation of any extracted matter in a separator.
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ECO-FRIENDLY COLOURATION The launch in 2010 by DyeCOO Textile Systems BV (Weesp, The Netherlands) of the first commercial scCO2 textile dyeing machine was based upon development that spanned 11 years, initially at DyeCOO’s parent company, FeyeCon Development & Implementation BV. Technical and engineering expertise has been provided by partners Stork Prints and the University of Delft. Specially developed disperse dyes were supplied by Chemische Fabriek Triade BV and process control systems by Setex Schermuly Textile Computer GmbH (Germany). The first DyeCOO machine was installed at Thailand's Tong Siang Co Ltd, part of the YEH Group, which has branded the process as DryDye. DyeCOO's dyeing system consists of maximally three dyeing vessels connected to a CO2 recovery and supply unit. These three dyeing vessels are able to dye simultaneously, but when sequentially pressurised or de-pressurised.
THE DYEING CYCLE • Atmospheric: the dyeing vessel is not under pressure • Pressurisation: the dyeing vessel is filled with CO2 • Dyeing and levelling: the textile is dyed • Rinsing: the dyeing vessel and the textile is rinsed • De-pressurisation: the dyeing vessel is depressurised
The operator has to choose which dyeing vessel should start with pressurisation (Step 1) and select the dyeing time. The control system then takes over and automatically executes the remaining steps for the activated dyeing vessels. The polyester fabric is wound onto a beam to be dyed and inserted into the dyeing vessel which is constructed of pickled and passivated stainless steel (ANSI 316). The working temperature is 120 deg C and working pressure up to 260 bar. The maximum load per dyeing vessel is 150-180 kg with fabric widths up to 80 inches. The average dyeing time is nearly three hours. The supercritical fluid CO2 causes the fibre structure to swell, permitting the disperse dye to easily diffuse into the fibre, penetrating the pore and capillary structure of the fibre. The dye solution viscosity is lower, facilitating easier and less energy-intensive circulation. DyeCOO’s first scCO2 dyeing machines dye scoured polyester fabric, but claim that their Type 2 dyeing machines will be able to avoid the aqueous pre-treatment step. With their partner Triade Chemicals, they now have a complete range of scCO2 dyes for their dyeing machines. The advantages of scCO2 dyeing compared with aqueous-based dyeing are: • elimination of water consumption • elimination of wastewater discharges • wastewater treatment process eliminated
• • • • • • • • •
elimination of drying and dryer effluent reduction in energy consumption reduction in air emissions reduction in dyeing time surfactants and auxiliary chemicals in dyes eliminated dye utilisation is very high with very little residual dye. Unused dye can be recaptured approximately 95 per cent of used CO2 will be recycled. fewer re-dyes are required colour correction is easier compared to aqueous dyeing
The Yeh Group have found that the physical properties of scCO2-dyed yarns are equivalent to those dyed by conventional aqueous dyeing. The scCO2 process involves the use of less energy than in conventional dyeing, resulting in a potential of up to 50 per cent lower operating costs. In February 2012, Nike Inc took a strategic stake in DyeCOO Textile Systems BV, and their Taiwanese contract manufacturer Far Eastern New Century Corp has installed DyeCOO machinery. Nike Inc has named this sustainable innovation ColorDry to highlight the environmental benefits and unprecedented colouring achieved with the technology. Industry analysts estimate that more than 39mn tonnes of polyester will be dyed annually by 2015 so the potential for scCO2 technology is considerable. The ColorDry process has reduced dyeing times by 40 per cent, energy use by around 60 per cent and the required factory footprint by a quarter. As part of Adidas’ Better Place sustainability initiative, the company produced 50,000 DryDye polyester T-shirts using scCO2 dyeing compared with aqueous dyeing, which requires an average around 25 litres of water to colour one T-shirt. This saved the use of 1,250,000 litres
of water by using scCO2 dyeing technology. Since introducing DryDye in 2012 Adidas has produced one million yards of DryDye fabric for its Prime Tshirt range. This is claimed to have saved over 25 million litres of water, equivalent to 10 Olympicsized swimming pools in just one year. The DryDye process technology has used 50 per cent less energy and 50 per cent fewer chemicals than traditional dyeing methods. IKEA GreenTech, an IKEA Group venture capital company has invested in DyeCOO Textile Systems – an investment that will support the delivery of the IKEA Group Sustainability Strategy, People & Planet Positive, which includes challenging commitments for IKEA to make its products, operations and supply chain more sustainable. Huntsman Textile Effects and DyeCOO Textile Systems joined forces in October 2012 to develop and grow scCO2 textile processing technology. The company is working with DyeCOO Textile Systems to develop and deliver innovative dye and chemical products to support the water-free dyeing process and to obtain the high levels of colour fastness and performance that consumers demand. Some of the products include Uvitex SC-PN, Uvitex SC-PB and Uvitex SC-PR, which deliver brighter white shades and render colours that are more vibrant. As the scCO2 process gives a dryer handle than water-based processing, Huntsman Textile Effects has produced Ultraphil SC-MC to improve the moisture management of the fabrics required by the major brands. scCO2 technology is a major innovation in dyeing technology which, if it can be extended to other fibres such as cotton, could prove to be the most sustainable development in textile dyeing so far. ❑
Water-free dyeing is based on the properties of supercritical carbon dioxide
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COLORANTS
Nouveaux colorants et auxiliaires pour le textile par Ian Holme Série généraliste D'après un rapport élaboré par Transparency Market Research (États-Unis) à propos du marché mondial des produits chimiques pour le textile, le marché mondial devrait passer de 19,6 milliards de $ en 2013 à 23,4 milliards de $ d'ici à 2018. En 2011, le secteur des colorants et des auxiliaires représentait 26,9 % du marché. Nul doute qu'il devrait croître sous l'effet de l'augmentation de la consommation mondiale de fibres. La région Asie-Pacifique domine le marché des produits chimiques pour le textile, s'octroyant une part de marché de 52,3 per cent en 2011. Les fabricants européens de colorants renforcent leur présence dans la région et la société DyStar s'est dotée d'une deuxième chaîne de production pour fabriquer sa solution de cuve haut de gamme à 40 % DyStar Indigo. Cette deuxième chaîne de production a été mise en service le 1er avril 2013 au sein du centre de fabrication de DyStar à Nanjing (Chine). Celle-ci atteindra sa capacité visée de 12 000 tonnes métriques par an. En 2013, l'entreprise d'investissements privée SK Capital a conclu le rachat auprès de Clariant de Textile Chemicals, entreprise de papiers spécialisés et d'émulsions. Elle a en outre regroupé les trois divisions au sein d'une société intégrée, axée sur le marché et hautement collaborative du nom d'Archroma. Archroma devrait réaliser environ 1,3 milliards de $ de recettes grâce à ses produits fabriqués dans 25 sites de fabrication à travers le monde. Elle emploie quelque 3 000 collaborateurs. Le site social d'Archroma se situera en Suisse et la division Textile Chemicals sera gérée depuis Singapour. La réglementation stricte adoptée en Europe a contraint les fabricants européens de colorants à délocaliser leurs sites de fabrication en Asie, ce qui permet à l'activité de fabrication de colorants de se rapprocher géographiquement des principales sources de production de fibres textiles et de tissu et réduit ainsi les coûts de distribution des produits. Les investissements massifs consentis à la fois dans les capacités de fabrication de colorants et de pigments en Chine, par exemple, ont permis de réaliser des économies d'échelle considérables. Les coûts de production des colorants ont diminué. Parallèlement, sous l'effet de la concurrence mondiale plus acharnée et de la réduction des coûts de main d'œuvre, le prix d'achat au kilo des colorants et pigments a chuté, en particulier en ce qui concerne les colorants et pigments de consommation courante fabriqués à très grande échelle. À présent, en 2014, le marché des colorants et pigments entre dans une nouvelle phase au cours de laquelle le marché a atteint son niveau plancher et qui devrait voir l'augmentation des prix. Ce changement de cap en matière de prix à l'échelle mondiale devrait être dû en grande partie aux approches toujours plus strictes adoptées par les autorités de réglementation chinoises et indiennes dans le but de réduire la pollution environnementale et en particulier la pollution galopante des eaux usées qui accompagne la fabrication de colorants. Autre facteur essentiel : la fermeture de certains sites de production de produits chimiques qui constituent d'importantes sources de pollution. Cette fermeture a conduit à une chute de la production mondiale de certains produits chimiques intermédiaires, parmi lesquels l'acide H essentiel à la production de nombreux colorants pour le textile. Résultat : des goulets d'étranglement dans la production de certains colorants, des problèmes de continuité
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En 2011, le secteur des colorants et des auxiliaires représentait 26,9 per cent du marché. Nul doute qu'il devrait croître sous l'effet de l'augmentation de la consommation mondiale de fibres
d'approvisionnement et une hausse des prix, tant des produits intermédiaires que des colorants, sont à prévoir. Dans certains cas, cette augmentation des prix des produits chimiques intermédiaires conduira les fabricants de colorants à se tourner davantage vers les colorants plus haut de gamme leur garantissant des marges de profit plus importantes. Alors que les fabricants de colorants optent pour des méthodes de fabrication de colorants plus propres et plus écologiques, cela ne peut se faire qu'au prix d'investissements en capitaux consentis au détriment des services de recherche et développement, alors soumis à une forte pression des coûts. Il ne peut en résulter qu'une diminution du nombre de nouveaux colorants mis sur le marché à l'échelle mondiale. Il est fort à parier que cette situation constituera un frein à l'innovation qui pourrait déboucher sur une stagnation de l'évolution technologique dans les domaines de la teinture et de l'impression sur textile.
Nouveaux colorants Huntsman Textile Effects a élargi sa gamme phare de colorants polyréactifs Avitera SE de teinture par épuisement des fibres cellulosiques. Associés au système Gentle Power Bleach, les colorants Avitera SE permettent de blanchir, teindre et laver le coton à des températures ne dépassant pas 60 °C. Cela permet de réduire jusqu'à 50 % la consommation d'eau et d'énergie, ainsi que les émissions de carbone. Les colorants Avitera SE sont polyréactifs, ce qui garantit une faible quantité de 5 % max. du colorant non fixé après teinture contre 15 à 30 % pour de nombreux systèmes de teinture réactifs. Cela diminue fortement le nombre de bains de rinçage nécessaires pour éliminer les colorants non fixés/hydrolysés et ainsi obtenir une résistance optimale des couleurs. Huntsman Textile Effects a mis sur le marché une nouvelle gamme Light Red de colorants polyréactifs qui confère une nuance rouge bleutée et peut être utilisée dans un vaste spectre de nuances claires afin d'obtenir des couleurs très résistantes à la lumière. Pour les nuances claires, Huntsman Textile Effects propose les produits Avitera Yellow SE, Avitera Cardinal SE, Avitera Light Red SE et Avitera Light
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COLORANTS Blue SE. Pour les nuances intermédiaires, les produits Avitera Yellow SE, Avitera Cardinal SE sont complétés par Avitera Red SE et Avitera Blue SE. Pour les couleurs foncées, les éléments jaunes et bleus sont remplacés respectivement par de l'Avitera Orange SE et de l'Avitera Deep Blue SE. Pour les nuances très foncées, Huntsman Textile Effects propose les produits Avitera Orange SE, Avitera Cardinal SE et Avitera Navy SE. La solubilité aqueuse élevée des colorants Avitera SE leur permet d'être appliqués dans des rapports de bain ultra-courts. La gamme Avitera SE est robuste et se caractérise par une excellente compatibilité, d'où une parfaite reproductibilité des essais en laboratoire à la production de série et d'un lot à l'autre. DyStar a ajouté à sa gamme de colorants réactifs Remazol Deep Black deux colorants offrant de meilleures caractéristiques d'intensité de couleur et de dépôt. Les deux colorants réactifs récemment brevetés sont Remazol Onyx RGB et Remazol Midnight Black RGB. Ces colorants démontrent une excellente résistance au lavage, peu de dégorgement sur les fibres polyamides dans les mélanges fibres (par exemple, coton/polyamide), ainsi que de bonnes performances en matière de lavage et de déchargeabilité du blanc. Ces deux nouveaux colorants noirs sont applicables par les procédés d’épuisement, de foulardage-stockage à froid ou de teinture à la continu. Remazol Onyx RGB est un colorant noir neutre tandis que Remazol Midnight Black RGB est un noir verdâtre. Ces deux colorants sont parfaitement conformes à la norme Oeko-Tex 100 et sont garantis sans AOX (organohalogénures résorbables) et sans métaux. Approuvés par bluesign, ces deux colorants ont été conçus afin de répondre aux exigences en matière de résistance des couleurs des détaillants dans le domaine essentiel des nuances de noir. Ils viennent ainsi compléter la célèbre gamme Remazol RGB de colorants réactifs. Archroma (anciennement Clariant) a mis sur le marché une gamme de colorants qui peuvent être appliqués à l'aide de sa technologie Advanced Denim afin d'étendre le spectre de couleurs en dehors du bleu. La technologie Advanced Denim d'Archroma s'appuie sur celle des colorants Diresul RDT. Toutefois, une nouvelle gamme de six colorants Optisul C a été lancée à Paris à l'occasion du salon Première Vision. Ces colorants permettent d'obtenir des couleurs denim délicates à l'aide d'une méthode de teinture continue. La gamme Optisul C est réputée sans affinité ni sulfure, ce qui lui permet d'être conforme aux critères GOTS et bluesign 1. Combinables à faible concentration, ils permettent de teindre le denim dans une vaste gamme chromatique aux couleurs délicates facilement reproductibles. Avocet Dye & Chemical Company Ltd, UK a doté sa gamme de colorants sans métaux Cetalan AV d'un nouveau colorant bleu marine. Cetalan Navy AV RLD complète ainsi une gamme qui compte désormais 12 colorants couvrant une vaste chromatique. Cetalan Navy AV RLD et l'autre nouveauté Cetalan Dark Red AV D sont conçus à destination de l'industrie des tapis en laine ou laine/nylon, mais peuvent également servir à teindre les tissus en laine. Cetalan Navy AV RLD permet aux teinturiers du textile d'obtenir des couleurs sombres et profondes tout en bénéficiant d'une bonne résistance des couleurs à la lumière et au lavage. Économique, la gamme Cetalan propose des colorants permettant aux teinturiers d'obtenir des couleurs profondes tout en respectant les normes environnementales et écologiques strictes. DyStar a mis sur le marché deux nouveaux colorants réactifs : Levafix Amber CA-N et Levafix Red CA-N. Le premier est un colorant jaune non photochromique que DyStar recommande pour les nuances ternaires claires à intermédiaires. Conçu en vue de remplacer Levafix Amber CA, ce nouveau colorant garantit aux fibres de polyamide un dégorgement largement moindre. Levafix Amber CA-N propose une résistance des couleurs élevée au peroxyde et au chlore. Levafix Red CA-N est un colorant rouge bleuté qui permet d'obtenir des nuances moyennes à sombres, ce qui en fait le partenaire parfait des combinaisons trichromatiques et une alternative au Levafix Red CA. Ces deux colorants réactifs Levafix Amber CA-N et Levafix Red
TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 3EME EDITION/2014
CA-N sont applicables par des procédés d'épuisement ou de teinture continue. Ils sont garantis sans AOX, sans métaux et sont parfaitement compatibles avec la norme Oeko-Tex 100 et toutes les listes de substances autorisées. En outre, le colorant Levafix Amber CA-N est applicable par le procédé de foulardage-stockage à froid en raison de son comportement de migration équilibré garantissant à la teinture de très bonnes caractéristiques de reproductibilité et d'uniformité. DyStar propose un nouveau colorant de cuve vert, Indanthren Green CLF Coll, qui présente une taille de particules optimisée et garantit ainsi des propriétés de migration optimales. Ce colorant de cuve propose une excellente reproductibilité, ainsi qu'une nuance uniforme et unique sur les tissus en polyamide/coton. Indanthren Green CLF Coll fournit une nouvelle base aux nuances de vert à résistance élevée, pour lesquelles la majeure partie de la couleur verte n'est pas assurée par les teintures bleue et jaune. Pour la teinture continue, DyStar recommande de recourir à Sera Gal M-IP, à Sera Sperse C-SN pour la teinture par épuisement et à Sera Print MCAM pour l'impression à deux phases. Indanthren Green CLF Coll présente notamment l'avantage de posséder des caractéristiques infrarouges similaires à la chlorophylle, ce qui en fait le choix idéal des imprimés de camouflage. Ce nouveau colorant de cuve présente d'excellentes caractéristiques de dépôt, ainsi qu'une résistance optimale au chlore, une résistance élevée à la lumière, au frottement et aux intempéries, ainsi qu'une résistance optimale au peroxyde de benzoyle.
Auxiliaires de teinture La technologie de teinture réactive Remazol RGB et Remazol Ultra RGB de DyStar est désormais complétée par un auxiliaire de neutralisation du bain innovant, utilisé dans le procédé Sera Eco Wash développé par DyStar. SeraFast GRD présente des effets accélérés de neutralisation du bain. Cet auxiliaire a en effet été formulé spécifiquement pour accélérer l'élimination des colorants réactifs hydrolysés/non fixés. Le procédé Sera Eco Wash raccourcit le procédé de neutralisation du bain à 60 °C, ce qui permet d'économiser sur l'eau, l'énergie et le temps de traitement. Il est ainsi possible d'améliorer la productivité des machines et la durabilité des procédés. Un nouvel accélérateur de diffusion améliorant la teinture par dispersion aqueuse des fibres de polyester a été mis sur le marché par Rudolf Chemie. Adapté à la teinture du polyester et des mélanges de polyester, Rucogal ERL est un produit non ionique à base d'éthoxylate alcool gras et d'ester d'acide gras. Peu moussant, Rucogal ERL est un produit liquide auto-émulsionnable qui peut être ajouté directement au bain de colorant. Rucogal ERL assure d'excellents effets d'égalisation et convient ainsi à la correction des irrégularités de teinture. Cet auxiliaire de teinture résiste à la dureté de l'eau et aux acides dans les conditions normales d'un atelier de teinture et confère de bons effets d'intensification des couleurs même appliqué à ébullition. Il peut être appliqué dans tous les types de machines de teinture. Bozzetto Group a mis sur le marché un nouvel adjuvant, Cindye DNK, destiné à la teinture des fibres d'aramide dans des nuances très foncées, extrêmement difficiles à obtenir normalement en raison de la structure de fibre cristalline très compacte. Les fibres d'aramide peuvent ainsi être teintes avec des colorants de base, un pH très acide et Cindye DNK qui assure la diffusion accélérée des colorants au cœur des fibres d'aramide et augmente considérablement la résistance au frottement et au lavage. Remarque importante : le recours à Cindye DNK ne nuit pas aux propriétés mécaniques et à la résistance à l'abrasion du matériau en aramide. Cette avancée majeure en matière de teinture des fibres d'aramide permet d'obtenir un rendu des couleurs supérieur et l'auxiliaire exerce un impact plus négligeable sur l'environnement de par sa bonne biodégradabilité. Cindye DNK est réputé être également efficace dans le cas d'autres fibres difficiles à teindre, telles que le polybenzimidazole (PBI) et le sulfure de polyphénylène (PPS). ❑
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CINTE TECHTEXTIL CHINA
Shanghai Techtextile fair set be biggest ever The upcoming event promises to be a lucrative affair for exhibitors and buyers especially outside China
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EARLY 500 EXHIBITORS from 19 countries will be present at the Cinte Techtextil China, scheduled to take place from 24 to 26 September 2014 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre The three-day event has expanded this year, and is being reckoned as the largest Cinte Techtextil to be organised – there will be three halls and 35,000 sq m of exhibition space, which is 45 per cent larger than the previous edition that was held in 2012. There would be a wide range of technical textiles and non-wovens that could be applied to 12 application areas.
Regional pavilions Highlights within the International Hall (hall E7) include country and regional pavilions from Belgium, Germany, Italy and Taiwan, as well as the European Pavilion. Pavilions from China HiTech Group Corp, Shangtex Holding Co Ltd and Zhejiang Tiantai will be present at the domestic halls (E5 – E6)
German pavilion This year, the German pavilion will showcase 30 exhibitors representing textile technology, technical textiles, nonwovens and coated textiles. This will be organised by the Federal Ministry of Economics and Technology, the Confederation of the German Textile and Fashion Industry and Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH. A. Monforts Textilmaschinen, founded in 1884, is a supplier of textile machinery for dyeing and finishing of classical textiles (woven and knitted), and for coating and finishing of technical textiles and nonwovens. They have a special range of products for finishing airbag fabrics, pre-preg fibres and technical felts. A number of other machinery suppliers feature in the Germany Pavilion. This includes AUTEFA Solutions who produce individual machines, as well as turnkey airlay, carding and thermobonding lines for the non-wovens industry. Oerlikon Neumag supply plants for the production of BCF carpet yarns and synthetic staple fibres, as well as various nonwoven, spunmelt and airlaid technologies for a wide range of applications. Lindauer DORNIER GmbH, who has been producing weaving machines since 1950, will feature their rapier and air-jet weaving machines in this pavilion. Sandler develops and produces non-wovens for a range of fields including automotive,
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The exhibition will be spread across 35,000 sq m of space – 45 per cent larger than the previous edition of Cinte Techtextil China that was held in 2012
construction, engineering, filtration, hygiene and wipes. This will be their fourth time participating at the fair, and the company has had partnerships in China since 2004. “Technical textiles are used in many industrial areas in China and the demand is continuing to grow in the wake of the fast expansion of production in the building sector, the automotive industry as well as in the medical and consumer goods industry,” Dr Ulrich Hornfeck, Member of the Management Board explained. “Non-wovens for the automotive industry and filter media are of particular interest in this market, particularly high-quality nonwovens for complex products.” Sandler will be present at the Germany Pavilion by fellow nonwovens exhibitor Truetzschler which specialises in the hydroentangling field. And Italian company RamischGuarrneri Nipco Technology is represented through their German office, and will feature a range of finishing calenders.
Asia to display its diversity The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA), a long-term participant at Messe Frankfurt textile fairs in the region, serves the textile industry in Hong Kong and Mainland China. They focus on developing new materials and textiles, advanced production technology and design & evaluation technology, and will present their intelligent impact protectors based on 3D auxetic spacer fabrics at the fair. These unique
fabrics become rigid with impact and flexible again after impact, and are designed to protect wearers from impacts and falls. The Korea Textile Trade Association (KTTA) is one exhibitor with a wide range of products on display at the fair for the Mobiltech, Protech and Sportech sectors. Just some of the items they will showcase on behalf of their association members include heat protecting fabrics, non-slip carbon fabrics, carbon fibre and aramid composite fabrics, nonwoven textiles for automobile interiors and ultra lightweight fabrics for tents and tarps. In addition, the Korea Textile Machinery Research Institute (KOTMI) is a leading textile machinery research institute. Their research areas for textile machinery include structural and mechanism analysis, process development, vibration and acoustic analysis and automatic control systems. Latest information and trends in the industry would also be made available to attendees. The China International Non-Woven Congress will take place on 25 September, while a number of informative seminars and product presentations are also scheduled throughout the fair. In addition, the Innovative Showcase Display Area features the latest industry technology. Cinte Techtextil China is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT, and the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA). ❑
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EVENT NEWS
ITMA Asia+CITME 2014 sparks interest for next edition With a seven per cent increase in turnout, this year’s ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 was a success and exhibitors are looking forward to the next show scheduled to be held at Shanghai in 2016
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HE FIVE-DAY ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014 concluded successfully at the Shanghai New International Exhibition Centre in June. Attracting 100,000 visitors from 102 countries, the event saw an increase of seven per cent over the attendance recorded at the 2012 show. Around 80 per cent of the visitors were from China and over twenty per cent of the visitors were from overseas, the top economies being India, Japan, Chinese Taiwan, South Korea, Indonesia and Turkey. The combined show is owned by CEMATEX, together with its Chinese partners — the subcouncil of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and China International Exhibition Centre Group Corporation (CIEC). It was organised by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co Ltd and co-organised by MP Expositions Pte Ltd. Charles Beauduin, president of CEMATEX, said, “Most of our exhibitors were delighted with the high-quality trade visitors. The success of the show reinforces the reputation of ITMA ASIA + CITME as the most effective business platform in China and indeed the whole of Asia.” The total gross exhibition area at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014 exceeded 150,000 square metres and spanned 13 halls, making it the largest combined show to date, according to organisers. There were almost 1,600 exhibitors from 28 economies taking part in the five-day show.
The products on display at ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 included those that boost automation and have energy-saving features. China topped the list, due to an increase in the its textile machinery manufacturing capacity
Wang Shutian, president of CTMA, added that the 2014 exhibition showcased a comprehensive range of technologies from around the world. “ITMA ASIA + CITME has now emerged as the must-visit event for Asian buyers sourcing a wide range of solutions to help them be more competitive. Hence, the products on display included those that boost automation and energy-saving features.” In terms of exhibit space, Chinese exhibitors topped the list, boosted by rapid increase in
Chinese textile machinery manufacturing capacity and development. They were followed by participants from Germany, Japan, Italy and Switzerland. The biggest exhibit sector was spinning, followed by washing, dyeing, bleaching, printing, finishing, knitting and weaving. Interest is now high for the next show, CEMATEX said. The 2016 exhibition will be held at the new National Convention and Exhibition Centre in the Hongqiao business district of Shanghai from 24-28 October 2016. ❑
FESPA makes debut in Africa at Johannesburg FESPA MADE ITS foray into Africa with its first event that was held from 2-4 July 2014 at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand, South Africa. FESPA Africa is a joint venture of FESPA and the South African event organiser Practical Publishing, whose Sign Africa and Visual Communications Africa shows will now come together under the FESPA event, to cover all aspects of signage, wide format digital printing, garment decoration and screen printing. Spread across 13,500 sq m and catering to over 150 exhibitors, the combined event attracted over 6,000 visitors from sub-Saharan Africa and Europe. Major brands exhibiting at the expo included Roland, Avery Dennison, Epson, HP, Mimaki, Durst, Kodak, OKI, Kornit Digital, Fujifilm, Agfa, swissQprint, Esko, Seiko, Aristo,
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Optimus, Pantone, Evonik, Sharp, Monti Antonio and MS Italy, to name a few Neil Felton, managing director of FESPA said “Africa is a vital and exciting growth region, and in Practical Publishing, an experienced partnered helped us establish the FESPA brand here with the right local insights and contacts. By combining
these two established events, the aim was to bring together the whole wide format print supply chain – the printers themselves and the specifiers of visual communications – behind the FESPA Africa brand.” Dyelan Copeland, Director at Practical Publishing stated that while Sign Africa and Visual Communications Africa are successful, well-attended events, partnering with FESPA, helped take the events to another level. “FESPA Africa set out to deliver a new experience for African business audiences, at a time when they needed global expertise and insight to help them embrace the opportunities of wide format print. Johannesburg was the perfect location for FESPA Africa, with an excellent infrastructure and connections to other major cities in sub-Saharan Africa.”
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EVENT NEWS Dubai to host maiden edition of International Textile Fair in November 2014 DUBAI IS ALL set to host its first textile trade show called the International Textile Fair between 3 and 4 November 2014 at the Dubai International Exhibition and Conference Centre. This event is touted to be the UAE’s premier platform for fashion fabrics and clothing accessories. There are going to be over 200 exhibitors, with a focus on textile mill accessories, trim suppliers and print designers. Exhibitors from Europe, India, China, UK, Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, Turkey and other GCC nations are expected to attend the show. Dilip Nihalani, organiser of ITF told local media that such shows are held regularly in cities like Paris, Milan and New York and it is high time Dubai staged such an event. “Dubai has emerged as a leading retail fashion hub and what was missing was a top-class international fabric show. This fair will fill the gap.”
Technology-aided design is making strides in the world of fashion and apparel
According to industry figures, the textile industry in the UAE was valued at US$13.2bn and is growing at 9.9 per cent annually. Housing over 150 apparel manufacturing companies and accounting for 5.5 per cent of global textile sales, the UAE has become the fourth largest
trading centre in the world for fashion and apparel. The show will provide manufacturers the opportunity to showcase their products to buyers and designers in and around the UAE, and is being projected as a 'trade only' event. Majority of the
Growth of China on global textile industry to be discussed at TCL 2014 TCL 2014, THE international conference of textile coating and laminating, is scheduled to take place between 4 and 5 November 2014 at Cannes in France. The event is organised by International Newsletters Ltd (UK) and sponsored by Industrial Textiles Associates (USA) and Technical Textiles International magazine. Executives from this sector will deliver presentations on subjects like the impact of China on the global coatings industry, sustainability, chemical protection, digital coating technologies, cross-laminated nonwovens for coating and laminating, integration of nanomaterials into textiles, vacuum deposition plasma systems, production methods for coating osmosis and gas filtration membranes and more. The keynote speaker will be Nicholas Smith, global
head of textile coatings at Bayer Material Science in China, who will focus on the heavy and growing influence of China on the global industry. Managing directors, CEOs, presidents, senior managers of companies engaged with the textile coating and laminating industry, suppliers, technical directors and managers concerned in fibres, fabrics, films, polymers, coating and laminating techniques are encouraged to attend TCL 2014. In addition, marketing directors, managers and industry analysts who are updated with the latest trends in the global markets would also find the event beneficial. TCL 2014 is taking place at the Hotel Novotel Cannes Montfleury in Cannes. The hotel is situated 10 minutes away from central Cannes, and 25 km from Nice Airport.
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manufacturers specialise in textiles and accessories for high-street clothing, designer, industrial and home furnishing. In addition, fabric importers, distributors, wholesalers, garment exporters, manufacturers, buying agents, local and international retail chains are expected to participate in the twoday event. Some of the fabrics that would be exhibited include bast, silk, cotton, artificial leather, fur, shuttlewoven chemical fabric, wool, knitted and coated fabric, compounded and antistatic fabric, oil-proof and waterproof, flame-retardant and rayproof, mercerised, reflective and elastic fabric. Accessories include embroidery, lace, lining, trimming, crochet and crystallisations. Natural, synthetic and plant fibres would be on display. ITF will also showcase design and production systems like computer-aided design and production systems, textile and clothes colour cards and samples.
Two new judges join panel of ITMA awards THE WORLD TEXTILE Information Network has announced that Dr Kate Goldsworthy and Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman will judge the inaugural ITMA Future Materials Awards, scheduled to be held on 26 November 2014 at Dresden, Germany. Dr Goldsworthy is a senior research fellow in Textiles Environment Design at Chelsea College of Arts and a lead researcher with the University’s Textiles Futures Research Centre. Pailes-Friedman is the founder of RPF Design Studio and a researcher of design methodology, smart materials and variables. She has worked as design director for brands like Fila, Champion and Nike. The two judges will join senior executives from Nike, the US Army, the Textile Institute, the Hohenstein Institute, the Austrian Man-Made Fibers Institute, Schoeller and Oerlikon among others.
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APPAREL Africa and the Middle East
At Hirdaramani, the Switchtrack handling system and the 5S principles help maximise production
Going back to the basics Niki Tait A look at how management of factory processes can greatly influence productivity and profits
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T IS AMAZING to find that companies in several countries worldover give little thought to basic factory management, organization and methods. Layouts are almost 95 per cent predictable. Production flows through conventional progressive bundle lines with about 30 people-aline to one supervisor, a quality controller and maybe, a technician or trainer; almost regardless of the product or style quantities being made. The machines may include automatic pocket sewers, electronic backtack and needle positioners but how
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many have engineered work stations? How many have handling methods designed to maximise productivity? Bundles tend to be tied with scrap from the cutting room, machines and work benches remain basically the same as delivered from the supplier, and the method to handle materials is usually down to the supervisor or service girl moving bundles between operators. It really does not matter what country we are in; tying and untying bundles takes time, effort, minimises productivity, costs money and usually
creases the garments being produced resulting in the need for additional pressing. Whether you are paying operators US$60 per month or US$600, the process is time consuming and costs a lot. Admittedly, the layout can look clean and tidy, everything is laid out neatly in straight lines, but let us take a cold hard look and go back to basics. Conventional production management utilises the neat progressive bundle system with individuals on piece work, where management is looking for the highest level of performance, utilisation and efficiency in each individual based on the standard minute rate for the operation. It uses work-in-progress stocks to smooth out imbalances. Additionally, in-line and final quality inspection is done to ensure inferior quality goods are corrected before garments are dispatched. This progressive bundle system looks at the short-term profitability of production and tends to clamp down on immediately visible costs, simultaneously tolerating high levels of waste. This may be a bold statement, but it ignores the total costs of production – handling times, correction times, cost savings, which can be made if the best method was used rather than the prescribed ‘We have always done it this way’ method. A progressive company, however, takes a step back to the basics and looks at what it is trying to achieve and why – not just in terms of maximising productivity but customer service as well. This includes the ability to produce short run flexible production costs effectively with reliable quality and delivery with a short turnaround. It takes a holistic approach to manufacturing and understands its present position amongst its global competition. A two-week throughput is not sufficient, when another company can turn the order around in one week. It needs to analyse its customers’ requirements, like design and pre-production aspects, production processes that help dispatch logistics and delivery methods, and finally decide how best to address these needs. It needs to take an integrated manufacturing approach using all the appropriate tools available. An inability to move to full garment production from CMT may limit a company’s order opportunities. A company, whether its a manufacturing unit or not, requires a detailed plan of where it wishes to be in five years’ time and longer having analysed where it is now. What are its shortfalls? What are its strengths? What are its weaknesses? What are its opportunities? What information does it really need
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MANAGEMENT to run its business? What are the wider reaching effects of the business upon which they have little control? What are the more localised effects? The aims, objectives and future strategy of each company will be different, but are likely to include, to a greater or lesser degree, the requirements for faster market response with shorter throughput and lead times, lower overheads and less administration, increased productivity, reduced raw material, reduced finished stock, reduced work in progress, increased flexibility, reduced costs and improved quality. For any change, one must have objectives that can be monitored, are specific, measurable, achievable, realistic and timely. This will inevitably necessitate improved sales forecasting, production planning and scheduling, improved communication, the removal of nonvalue added activities throughout the whole supply chain, building of close working partnerships with customers and suppliers, and appropriate and effective information systems. Methods, systems and technology should be developed to optimise all resources available to the company. These resources can be categorised as money, labour, material, time, space and machinery. The control of each of these resources is interrelated with the control of others; none can be looked at in isolation. Critical examination is an extremely useful tool when one analyses the purpose of each aspect, and whether it really needs to be done at all. In addition, the location, sequence within the overall operation, who does it, and how they do it are also closely surveyed. To each of these questions, a series of supplementary questions have to be asked, such as what is done, why is it done, what else could be done and what should be done.
HOW TO CLOSE SIDE SEAMS: ●
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Pick up the first part, pick up the second part, position the two parts together at beginning of seam and place to needle Sew seam in three bursts (three bursts are required, enabling one to reposition as he sews along the seam) Reposition two pieces together for the second seam, place to needle Sew seam in three bursts (three bursts to allow for repositioning as one sews) Fold and aside Book work
One of the points always to remember is that the total work content of a job equals the basic work content plus the excess work content. The excess work content includes work added by defects in design or specification of the product. Bad design prevents the use of the most economic processes or the optimal use of materials. Lack of standardisation prevents use of mass production processes and even in a highly flexible manufacturing environment, there are aspects that can still be standardised. The method of waistband
Methods, systems and technology must be developed to optimise all resources made available to the company
attachment is one such example. Incorrect or misunderstood quality standards cause unnecessary work. Excess work content can be added by use of inefficient methods of manufacturing or operation – the wrong machine or tools being used, processes not operated correctly or in bad condition, bad layouts causing wasted movement, use of bad or unsafe working methods, lack of adequate training or poor method specification. In addition to excess work content, one must consider where time is lost. Lost time within the control of the operator includes absence, lateness and idleness, careless workmanship causing scrap or rework or careless accidents that cause stoppages and absence. However, a far greater potential of lost time is due to the shortcomings of management. Excessive product variety and lack of standardisation adds idle time at the changeover of styles as can poorly organised design changes. Bad planning of work and orders can lead to under-utilisation of operators and machines, as can machinery and equipment breakdowns. Plants that are in a bad condition can lead to quality issues, scrap and rework. Poor working conditions result in workers finding the need to rest more frequently and can lead to accidents. In terms of moving materials around the factory, and indeed under the needle, a tremendous amount can be saved with the removal of ineffective time, and, therefore, cost and throughput time of orders through production. There is a well-known theory which states that in most sewing factories, 80 per cent of the time spent in the production is in the process of handling, only 20 per cent is spent actually sewing, pressing or finishing. Therefore, in any thirty minute garment only six minutes of the work is actually productive, value added and effective. The other twenty four minutes is unproductive, usually
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spent moving and manipulating material so the productive work can be carried out. A very simple operation, but the only productive part is the actual sewing. By better management, methods, layouts and controls, often a reduction in work in progress, standard minute content, indirect labour and throughput time can be achieved without considerable reinvestment. Handling adds nothing to the value of the product, but does add to the cost of manufacturing. The manual movement of work from one work station to another is completely unproductive, whether carried out by a service girl or supervisor. Tying and untying bundles, folding and unfolding work and booking work are all nonproductive. The storage of work between operations ties up money, adds no value to a garment, takes space and slows throughput. If there is no bundling, no moving around by the operator to collect or dispose of work, and a garment is ergonomically delivered to the needle point ready for sewing, such as with a Unit Production System such as Eton or INA, or Switchtrack or Schoenberger style system, for example, the 80:20 handling ratio can be changed to 60:40 or better, thus maximising productivity by replacing non-productive time with productive time. The best solution, however, is to avoid handling wherever possible. Where short runs and highly flexible production is required team working may be a consideration. Teamwork can be defined as ‘a flexible, quick response production system consisting of selforganised, self-motivated, multi-skilled versatile operators who work collectively in teams, making joint decisions and sharing responsibility for the team’s output in terms of both quality and quantity’. The emphasis is on utilising a small multi-skilled group of operators to their highest potential rather than individuals. Group bonuses replace individual incentives and teams assume
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MANAGEMENT responsibility for their own quality with the emphasis on avoidance of mistakes rather than identification and correction. Management takes over from line ‘policing’ and team members account for their own supervision, quality and collective output. In terms of improving the cost effectiveness of production, it is not just industrial engineering and using different production methods such as using unit production systems or team working that can help but there are also many management techniques which can be of benefit including Just In Time, total quality management, Kaizen, and the 5S principles. As with teamwork, Kaizen is also a collective rather than individual function. It is a method of developing continuous improvement throughout a company in the areas of quality, technology, processes, productivity, safety, company culture and leadership, and should involve every employee from the upper management to the cleaning crew. Everyone is encouraged to come up with small improvement suggestions regularly in a managed manner. The philosophy is “Do it better, make it better, improve it even if it is not broken, because if we don’t, we can’t compete with those who do.” This is opposed to many companies’ thinking that “If it is not broken, don’t fix it.” The Kaizen philosophy is that everything can be improved – quality circles, automation, suggestion systems, Just In Time delivery, Kanban and 5S are all included within the Kaizen system of running a business. It involves setting standards and then continually improving those standards. To support the higher standards, Kaizen also involves providing training, materials and supervision that is required for employees to achieve higher standards and maintain their ability to meet those standards on an ongoing basis. Part of Kaizen is the 5S programme, which is a basic, fundamental, systematic approach for productivity, quality and safety improvement in all types of business. It focuses on visual order, organisation, cleanliness and standardisation and aims to improve profitability, efficiency, service and safety. The principles underlying a 5S programme, at first, appear to be simple, obvious common sense and indeed they are. They may be bundled under a fancy name, but unless they are highlighted and emphasised, several businesses ignore these basic principles. They are as fundamental to good production as the organised steps of method study and work measurement, the main constituents of industrial engineering.
Eton System’s automatic sorting system – part of the UPS system can be used to sort and minimise the number of colour changes during production
Highlights of 5S programme: ●
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AD INDEX Brother Internationale ..................................9 Industrie Machinen GmbH Loepfe Brothers Ltd. ..................................24 MP International Pte. Ltd. (ITMA 2015) ..........2 Rieter Machine Works Ltd ..........................17 ●
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Sorting - Sorting means to sort through everything in each work area. Keep only what is necessary. Materials, tools, equipment and supplies that are not frequently used should be moved to a separate, common storage area. Items that are not used should be discarded. Don’t keep things around just because they might be used, someday. Sorting is the first step in making a work area tidy. It makes it easier to find the things you need and gives way to additional space. Broken equipment and tools are either mended or thrown away. Obsolete fixtures, moulds, jigs, scrap material, waste and other unused items and materials are discarded. Systematic organisation - There should be a place for everything and everything in its place, with everything properly identified and labelled. Organise, arrange and identify everything in a work area. Commonly used tools should be readily available. Storage areas, cabinets and shelves should be properly labelled. Clean and paint floors to make it easier to spot dirt, waste materials and dropped parts and tools. Outline areas on the floor to identify work areas, movement lanes, storage areas, finished product areas, etc. Put shadows or outlines on tool boards, making it easy to quickly see where each tool belongs. In an office, provide bookshelves for frequently used manuals, books and catalogues. Label the shelves and books so that they are easy to identify and return to their proper place. Systematic organisation not only refers to individual work areas. The overall facility should also be systematically organised, including the proper placement of easy-tounderstand labels and signs. Piping, valves, control panels, major equipment, doorways, minor equipment, instruments, storage areas, offices and files should all be clearly identified. Sweep and keep clean. - Once everything is
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sorted, cleaned up and organised, it needs to be kept that way. Regular, usually daily, cleaning is needed or everything will return to the way it was. While cleaning, it’s easy to inspect the machines, tools, equipment and supplies being used as well. Regular cleaning and inspection makes it easy to spot oil leaks, equipment misalignment, damage, missing tools and low levels of supplies. Problems can be identified and fixed when they are small. If these minor problems are not addressed, they could lead to much bigger equipment failure, unplanned shortages or long unproductive waits while new supplies are delivered. When done on a regular and frequent basis cleaning and inspecting generally will not take much time, and in the long run will save time. Standardise and simplify - The good practices developed in the earlier steps should be standardised and made easy to accomplish. Develop a work structure that will support the new practices and turn them into habits. As things develop, update and modify the standards to make the process simpler and easier. One of the hardest steps is avoiding slipping back into old work habits as its what everyone is familiar with and feels comfortable. Self Discipline - The final step is to continue training and maintaining the standards. Have a formal system for monitoring the results. Don’t expect that you can clean up, get things organised and labelled, and ask people to clean and inspect their areas every day, and then expect this to continue to happen without any followup. Continue to educate people about maintaining standards. When there are changes such as new equipment, products and work rules that will affect your 5S programme, adjust the programme to accommodate those changes, make necessary changes in the existing standards and provide training that addresses those changes. Sustain the benefits you are getting. ❑
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