AFAR WTG Winter Issue 2026 by Afar

CITIES ON THE RISE

WHERE TO GO IN 2026

CROWD-FREE ISLANDS

M U S T- V I S I T VILL AGES

Culinary Adventures in Spain

Temples replace lobbies. Jungle meets joyrides. Flamingos strut past, and jaws drop at Cirque du Soleil. This is VidantaWorld Nuevo Vallarta and VidantaWorld Riviera Maya, two coastal resorts pairing luxury amenities with spectacular immersive entertainment.

VidantaWorld Nuevo Vallarta Easy days drift between miles of pools and the beach, more than 40 restaurants and lounges, serene spas, and championship golf by Greg Norman—with Cirque du Soleil LUDÕ (now open) and the BON Luxury Theme Park (Fall 2026) adding even more wonder. VidantaWorld Riviera Maya Where jungle meets the Caribbean, the luxury water park, Jungala Aqua Experience, sets the tone for relaxed adventure, followed by nearly 20 restaurants and lounges, indulgent spas, Nicklaus-designed golf, and Cirque du Soleil’s JOYÀ by night. Across México Resorts where kids splash and soar while adults dine and unwind—the best of all possible worlds in one unforgettable stay.

L x E Y VidantaWorld.com

VidantaWorld resorts are your passport to a vacation with everything from nonstop thrills to relaxing beach days, all on expansive oceanfront properties in Nuevo Vallarta and the Riviera Maya.

ALBERTA

ARE

WINTERS

CALLING Castle Mountain Resort, Southern Rockies

Embrace your wild side in Canada’s Wild Side. Uncover hidden wonders and uncrowded landscapes—places that invite exploration without restraint. Castle Mountain Resort, Southern Rockies

While unknown to many, Castle Mountain is Alberta’s second-largest ski resort and offers ski-in, ski-out accommodations. New skiers can hone their skills on laid-back green runs, while advanced riders seek thrills on powdery bowls and back-country cat skiing zones. Iceﬁelds Parkway, Banff & Jasper

Métis Crossing, Smoky Lake

Spanning 232 km (144 mi) between Banff and Jasper National Parks, this legendary road trip route has been named one of the world’s top drives by Condé Nast Traveller. Don’t hesitate to pull over—those who wander a little further are rewarded with incredible viewpoints, hiking trails and waterfalls.

Dinosaur Provincial Park, Canadian Badlands

Step back in time at Dinosaur Provincial Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where towering hoodoos and winding trails reveal secrets from millions of years ago. Journey through rocky canyons, dig for dinosaur fossils, and unearth the wonder of Alberta’s prehistoric past. BASIN Glacial Waters, Banff National Park

Mother and daughter, Matricia and Mackenzie Brown, founded Warrior Women to pass on generations of Indigenous knowledge. Through craft workshops, ﬁreside

Dare to indulge at BASIN Glacial Waters. A new spa at Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, this stunning indoor-outdoor hydrotherapy destination invites wellness seekers to bask in varying-temperature pools, contemporary saunas and unforgettable Canadian Rocky Mountain views.

Warrior Women, Jasper National Park

BASIN Glacial Waters, Banff National Park

Métis Crossing, Smoky Lake

Indigenous guides share Métis customs through snowshoe and wildlife tours, traditional workshops and authentic cuisine. Guests can also spend a night under the stars in a modern Sky-Watching Dome. Keep an eye out for northern lights— winter is the perfect time to see them.

chats, drum circles and more, they offer curious travelers a deeper connection with cultures that have shaped Alberta.

Warrior Women, Jasper National Park

Waterton Lakes National Park, Southern Rockies

A Dark Sky Preserve and the world’s ﬁrst International Peace Park—shared with Glacier National Park in the U.S.—Waterton celebrates harmony between countries, adventurers and wilderness. Join a guided stargazing snowshoe tour and chase the northern lights with expert dark sky navigators.

Get inspired to get away from the everyday. Unforgettable winter adventures await in Alberta.

Discover luxury at its wildest. Mount Engadine Lodge, Kananaskis Country

travelalberta.com

Table of Contents

Where to Go in 2026 One of the quieter towns on the French Riviera, Menton is known for its colorful, pastel-hued buildings and its specialty lemons.

Our 2026 picks champion a better way to travel the world: responsibly, creatively, and with eyes on places long overlooked.

Adelaide

Da Nang

Laikipia

Saba

Australia

Vietnam

Kenya

Kingdom of the Netherlands

Albuquerque

East Antarctica

Madhya Pradesh

New Mexico

India

Eleuthera Birmingham Alabama

The Bahamas

Sado Island Japan

Menton France

Southern Peru

Oulu

St. Louis

Finland

Missouri

Penang Island

Stockholm Archipelago

Malaysia

Sweden

Rabat

West Cork

Morocco

Ireland

Far East London Bucharest Romania

England

Buffalo New York

Texas

Harlem Columbia River Gorge Oregon and Washington 4

New York

NIGEL BURKITT

Fort Worth

SEVEN SEAS CRUISES

E X P E R I E N C E T H E U N R I VA L E D

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ON THE COVER Anciles, a village in northeast Spain’s Benasque Valley, has only 18 residents—and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Photograph by Benjamin McMahon

16 VOICE FROM AFAR

F E AT U R E S

Table of Contents

MOVEABLE FEASTS Chefs across Spain are trading jobs in big cities for the chance to run restaurants in small towns, helping to preserve the communities and traditions they know and love.

110

SHAPE SHIFT Wild horses, windswept sands, and seal pups: For those who make the journey, Canada’s remote Sable Island offers natural wonders rarely experienced elsewhere.

UNPACKED WHO, WHAT, WEAR How columnist Dr. Anu Taranath navigates clothing and identity when traveling abroad.

ILLU STR ATI ON : LEONIE BOS

128 JUST BACK FROM SINGAPORE When Afar Associate Art Director Elizabeth See returns to her childhood home, family festivities bring joy to the heart—and the taste buds.

120

A DESERT DREAM Photographer Nathalie Mohadjer captures the quiet beauty of Egypt’s far-flung Siwa Oasis, where history lingers in every dune and doorway.

PH OTOS , CLO CK WI S E FRO M TO P RI G HT: B ENJAMIN M CMAH O N ; NATHALIE M O HAD J ER ; FR AN CI S S EE

WHERE IT’S AT BOSTON Ahead of cohosting the 2026 World Cup—and celebrating America’s 250th birthday with an epic Fourth of July bash—Boston is in the spotlight for its generous green space, award-winning restaurants, burgeoning art scene, and diverse neighborhoods.

Sandals.com 1-800-Sandals or Call Your Travel Advisor

Sandals® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide representative of Sandals Resorts. 474/1025

MADE OF CARIBBEAN

We’re fluent in Caribbean. Hidden Piton trails in Saint Lucia? Follow us. A villa with the perfect sunset view? All yours. But the real magic? It lives in the people. We know the Caribbean best because it’s where we’re from — let us share it with you.

Need a real vacation n We know a place. Meet the Caribbean’s best-value all-inclusive vacation, where it’s island time all the time. Sandals® Resorts was born in Jamaica more than forty years ago and has been sharing the best of the Caribbean ever since. We pioneered the region’s all-inclusive experience in 1981 and continue to raise the bar throughout the decades. And through every stage of our growth, we’ve stayed true to our founder’s vision: do things the right way and look after each other, our guests, and the islands we call home. Here, all-inclusive means you can go all in on the best the Caribbean has to offer. That’s why we created frictionless vacationing over four decades ago — to share the simple, vibrant pleasure of island life with everyone. When it comes to dining, there’s a bite for every craving. One of our favorite spots is Buccan,

where meats and island ingredients are cooked slowly over open flames and served family style. But you can’t miss our famous Jerk Shack that brings the heat with authentic island spice. From Robert Mondavi Twin Oaks® wines and top-shelf spirits to freshly brewed Blum Coffee from Jamaica’s Blue Mountain, all meals and drinks are all included and always authentically Caribbean. Because we’re born and bred on the shores of Jamaica, our roots run deep, as does our expertise in everything Caribbean. The best scuba spots, rum bars, and sunset views? We know them by heart, and can’t wait to share them. From the pulse of reggae to the genuine warmth of our people, Sandals Resorts embodies the true spirit of the islands.

With resorts across eight destinations, there’s a Sandals to fit every travel style. Each location has been hand-selected based on the best beaches, from Jamaica’s lush north coast to Saint Lucia’s soaring Pitons, Antigua’s tranquil coves, Curaçao’s vibrant reefs, and the unspoiled shores of Saint Vincent and The Grenadines. You get to spend your vacation days any way you like, we’ll give you the best of everything to choose from. Play pickleball at sunrise, glide across the sea on a Hobie Cat, or earn your PADI® scuba diving certification before unwinding with a cocktail at sunset. Or simply do nothing at all. Stay in a Vincy Two-Story Overwater Villa if you’re chasing the good life, or in a Tufa Terrace Skypool Suite at Sandals Dunn’s River, where a private infinity-edge pool invites a late-night swim. Across every destination, Rondoval Suites, walk-in pools, and soaking tubs for two redefine what “all-inclusive luxury” really means. Most of all, our difference lies in our people — the 18,000 Caribbean Insiders who welcome you with warmth, anticipate your needs, and make every stay feel like family. Their charming spirit has defined who we are and why guests return year after year. Because when everything’s included, you’re free to sink into island time — completely. Plan your escape at Sandals.com and discover the best all-inclusive value in the Caribbean.

Sandals.com 1-800-Sandals or Call Your Travel Advisor Sandals® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide representative of Sandals Resorts. 552/1125

Table of Contents

Features SHAPE SHIFT p.110

B RENDAN G EO RG E KO

What intrigues me most is the romanticism of isolation, of these creatures and this place.

You are always welcome here. History loves company.

In Charleston, South Carolina, America’s fight for independence lives on—not only in museums but in the area’s streets, gardens, and fortifications. Once a focal point of the Revolutionary War, Charleston saw British occupation, colonial resistance, and the 1780 siege firsthand. Start your journey at The Charleston Museum, the nation’s first, to trace Lowcountry history. Walk The Battery, where cannons once guarded the harbor. Visit The Powder Magazine, South Carolina’s oldest public building, and tour the Heyward-Washington House, home to a Declaration signer and host to President George Washington. At the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon, see where patriots were held and the Constitution ratified. View the Miles Brewton House, seized as British headquarters under General Clinton. Stand at Fort Moultrie, where palmetto logs turned back a British fleet. Explore Marion Square once a fortified outpost, and wander the Historic District, rich with Georgian architecture and cobbled alleys. Beyond downtown, visit the Charles Pinckney National Historic Site, honoring a framer of the U.S. Constitution, and travel the Ashley River to Drayton Hall and Middleton Place, two of America’s oldest plantations tied to the Revolution. Plan your journey where America’s founding story endures at every turn RevWarCHS.com.

EXPLORECHARLESTON.COM | @EXPLORECHARLESTON

SCAN TO LEARN MORE

Contact your travel advisor, call 1.888.928.0237 or visit amawaterways.com today.

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Voice From Afar

R E C E N T LY, A F R I E N D V I S I T E D New York City from the San Francisco Bay Area. The trip marked her first time staying in Harlem, the uptown neighborhood where I’ve lived for more than a decade. Together, we took in the sidewalk vendors and music of 125th Street at night; in the mornings, we walked my dog in the 30-acre Morningside Park, which was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted in 1895. She was delighted, she said, to experience a new-to-her slice of New York. I am equally delighted to share my neighborhood with all of you: Harlem, with its long-awaited reopening of the Studio Museum, is featured in our Where to Go list (page 39), which we publish every year. For 2026, we’re celebrating 24 under-touristed places around the globe, with an emphasis on the lesser-known and the local— destinations such as Oulu, Finland (a 2026 European Capital of Culture), and Madhya Pradesh, which is home to more tigers than anywhere else in India, the country that counts 75 percent of the world’s tiger population. Elsewhere in the issue, as part of our continued 16

coverage in the lead-up to the 250th Harlem has a number of anniversary of the United States, we notable landshine a light on Boston (page 25), which marks, and has award-winning restaurants, a rich streets such as Frederick arts scene replete with small galleries, Douglass and LGBTQ-history and music tours. Boulevard In June and July it will cohost the 2026 (pictured) honor its stoWorld Cup along with 15 other citried history. ies in North America. In the feature well, contributing writer Lisa Abend takes a culinaryfocused six-day road trip around Spain to meet the chefs helping to revitalize small villages (page 96); writer Jennifer Hope Choi travels to Canada’s remote Sable Island, an “ecological marvel” (page 110); and photographer Nathalie Mohadjer shares her experience in Siwa Oasis, Egypt, which draws travelers with its ruins (page 120). Though each piece of the issue is remarkably distinct, taken together, they serve to inspire you to think differently about where to travel—a mission we’ll continue to expand on in 2026 with new types of storytelling in the magazine, which you’ll notice in our spring issue. We’re thrilled you’re along for the ride. In good travel, K ATHERI NE LAG R AV E

Executive Editor

Some Exciting News Afar is now B Corp Certified, joining global businesses that meet high standards of social and environmental performance, transparency, and accountability. We are pleased to add our B Corp commitments to our longstanding mission to make travel a force for good in the world.

JASO N JACKSO N

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Adventure at every turn. Fun year-round. NC’s uncrowded coast is always teeming with things to do and epic adventures to enjoy. Visit crystalcoastnc.com/afar.

Unpacked

Notes on Ethical Travel

Who, What, Wear Columnist Dr. Anu Taranath explores the ways travelers can balance personal freedom and respect for local customs.

by A N U T A R A N A T H I l l u s t r a ti o n s by L E O N I E B O S

I ’ M STA N D I N G W I T H a group of U.S. travelers outside the Hassan II Mosque in

Casablanca, Morocco, when our local guide clears his throat. “Dear women in the group,” he begins, “kindly cover your heads with a scarf. I have extra if you need one. This gesture shows respect to the worshippers in the mosque and broader compound area.” A few people startle at his request. “I’m not one of them,” a woman says, the word them hard and pointed. “Why do I have to dress like them?” She eventually drapes a borrowed scarf over her head, but only barely. The next day, another woman appears at the medina in shorts, despite having been asked by guides to cover her knees on our tour of the country. “I’m hot,” she says, justifying her choice. I watch local Moroccans observe these moments and I feel frustrated and ashamed that the behavior of a small number of us can define our broader group. Though most of us are not insensitive and entitled, that is likely the impression we give. 19

Unpacked Notes on Ethical Travel

I’ve learned that when I blend in now and then, my strong principles and views don’t crumble; they remain rooted and flexible.

As a Seattle-based educator who specializes in diversity and social justice, I’ve led tours in more than a dozen countries over the last 20 years. I’ve seen the ways that many Western travelers could use more support when it comes to navigating race, culture, and gender, especially regarding clothing and self-expression. Be it the burka or bikini, bandanna or ball gown, fashion and attire signify complex ideas about cultural pride, gender norms, societal attitudes, group belonging, and the construction of respectability. Should anyone be judged solely by the clothes they wear, either at home or when traveling abroad? No, of course not. And yet many people, especially women, are often assessed, appreciated, shamed, and sometimes even disciplined based on what they wear. It shouldn’t be this way, but our bodies and how they are draped remain both a personal and a societal issue. Some of us think of conforming as giving something up. When we travel, though, doing so can enable more safety and more meaningful engagement and connections with local people. After all, if I’m dressed so differently from women residents my age, I stand out even more than I already do as a foreigner. While we move around the world as engaged travelers, there is a delicate balance between showing respect for another culture and not compromising too many of our core beliefs. Certainly, clothing can reflect our hard-won rights for personal and social recognition. When we travel to a destination that is culturally distinct from our own—especially one where clothing norms differ from those we are used to—we can temporarily refashion our appearance to fit better in our new environment while still remaining steadfastly ourselves. The key to better understanding is remaining open to what this balance looks like at various moments. Before I travel, I spend time learning about the destination I’m visiting. I look through articles online about culture, dress, and history and peruse guidebooks. I also read fiction that takes place in and is written by authors from the location I’m traveling to: Ultimately, novels invite us into the worlds of characters who navigate their culture and family dynamics in ways that help an outsider like me better comprehend what might be taking place below the surface. Through these means, I discern the local norms around gender and clothing, and I pack appropriately. On the ground, I hire a local guide and ask questions about different roles in society, individual self-expression, and group conformity. I’ve learned that when I blend in now and then, my strong principles and views don’t crumble; they remain rooted and flexible. Even if we dress or act a bit differently abroad than we do at home, who we are belongs to us. When we are guests in another land, mindful travel invites us to shape-shift in playful ways. Perhaps I highlight certain aspects of my personality or downplay others. I may wear a headscarf while visiting Morocco and dress in longer tunics in India, all with ease and equanimity. Even when I look a bit different, at the core I am still me.

Lose yourself in the views. Find yourself on the water. Just east of Atlanta, and one flight from just about anywhere, Reynolds Lake Oconee has welcomed Members from around the country for nearly four decades. Whether a weekend cottage or a home for the generations, Reynolds has a special magic all its own. For those interested in Real Estate and Membership, preferred ® rates in our cottages or The Ritz-Carlton are available. reynoldslakeoconee.com/afar | 855.487.0938

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11 RES TAUR A NT S

WELLNESS PURSUITS

Rates and availability are subject to change and excludes holidays. Club credit for promotional purposes only. Real estate and other amenities are owned by Oconee Land Development Company LLC and/or other subsidiaries and affiliates of MetLife, Inc. (collectively, "OLDC") and by unrelated third parties. OLDC is not involved in the marketing or sale of properties owned by third-parties. This is not intended to be an offer to sell nor a solicitation of offers to buy OLDC-owned real estate in Reynolds Lake Oconee by residents of HI, ID, NY, OR, or any other jurisdiction where prohibited by law. Access and rights to recreational amenities may be subject to fees, membership dues, or other limitations. For OLDC properties, obtain the Property Report required by Federal law and read it before signing anything. No Federal agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of this property. Void where prohibited by law. WARNING: THE CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF REAL ESTATE HAS NOT INSPECTED, EXAMINED, OR DISQUALIFIED THIS OFFERING. An offering statement has been filed with the Iowa Real Estate Commission and a copy of such statement is available from OLDC upon request. OLDC properties have been registered with the Massachusetts Board of Registration of Real Estate Brokers and Salesmen in Boston, MA.

EXPLORE ASHEVILLE LIKE AN INSIDER Your ExpertDesigned Itinerary

Day 1: A Legendary Comedy Tour

Day 2: Asheville’s Finest

Day 3: Mountain Magic

With its famously mellow vibe in the Blue Ridge Mountains, Asheville, North Carolina, is the type of place where you can find any experience you’re after, whether it’s cultural immersion, an active getaway, or a laid-back retreat. To help you design your ideal trip, we tapped the general manager of the Foundry Hotel, Larry Crosby, for his expert recommendations. He brings nearly two decades in hospitality to this flawlessly planned itinerary.

Your first stop will be the Foundry Hotel in the historic neighborhood that’s a former Black business hub known as The Block. The hotel’s industrial-chic feel pays homage to the site’s roots and nods to the area’s evolution as the former foundry that forged the steel for Biltmore. Drop your bags and get your bearings before joining LaZoom Tours for a comedic, scenic, and informative look at downtown Asheville. Following your last laugh, settle in for American farm-to-table cuisine at the Market Place and for a nightcap at Archetype Brewing. Brewing

There are a few things Asheville does exceptionally well—and you’ll discover them all on your second day. Kick things off with a signature beverage from Double D’s Coffee & Desserts before tubing or kayaking down the French Broad River, the thirdoldest river in the world. Back on dry land, visit the Wedge Brewery, explore the River Arts District, and embrace a moment of meditative stillness at Sauna House. Taste chef Katie Button’s Spanish-inspired small plates with dinner reservations at Cúrate.

It’s practically required that you lace up your hiking boots before leaving Asheville. After a sunrise hike at Craggy Pinnacle on the Blue Ridge Parkway, reward the effort with brunch at Corner Kitchen. Swing by Lexington Glassworks for a souvenir, or park yourself at Highland Brewing for local beers, live music, and food trucks. Jettie Rae’s Oyster House is the final stop of the grand Asheville food tour, but there’s always the option to visit South Slope—where you’ll find Burial, Hi-Wire, and Ben’s Tune-Up—to toast to your trip.

Personalize your trip using our AI-powered trip planner at Afar.com/Asheville

FIND YOURSELF IN ANCIENT MOUNTAINS WITH A MAGNETIC PULL, CALLING TO THE BOLD AND THE CURIOUS.

A PLACE WHERE TRADITION AND INNOVATION MOVE IN RHYTHM.

FEEL THE PULSE OF OUR CITY STREETS. SLOW DOWN TO A MOUNTAIN PACE AND LET THIS PLACE REMIND YOU WHAT IT MEANS TO BE FULLY ALIVE.

ExploreAsheville.com @VisitAsheville

THE WORLD ISN’T HERE TO BE SEEN. It’s here to be felt.

The Signature Collection is designed for you to experience the true soul of a place and its people. Your journey is led by our expert Signature Guides, enriched by characterful Signature Stays, and deepened through meaningful Signature Experiences and Signature Days, all leaving a lasting impact through Signature Legacy.

D I S C OV E R T H E C O L L E C T I O N AT E XO D U ST R AV E L S . C O M / S I G N AT U R E

South Station Tower

W H E R E I T ’ S AT

Boston

Comfort Kitchen

We’ll say it: In its nearly 400-year history, there’s never been a better time to visit Boston for its incredible public spaces and exciting new restaurants. Massachusetts’ capital will also host seven FIFA World Cup matches in June and July, including a quarterfinal. And in a deep nod to its place in Revolutionary War history, July brings a citywide birthday bash to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the country’s independence—including the firework-filled Boston Harborfest (July 2–4) and a visiting fleet of enormous tall ships (July 11–16). Consider this your guide. by Negin Farsad and Kori Perten Photographs by Malakhai Pearson

Mai

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum

W H E R E I T ’ S AT

Go Green The Rose Kennedy Greenway opened in 2008 after planners decided to push Boston traffic underground, an idea that became known as the Big Dig—an ambitious project and for years, a national joke. The effort paid off: With the space, the city created a 17-acre park that connects the neighborhoods of Chinatown, the Financial District, the Wharf District, and North End. Chris Cook, Rose Kennedy Greenway Conservancy’s executive director, says that the project nods to one of Boston’s 19th-century plans: landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted’s idea of an “Emerald Necklace” connecting Boston’s parks and waterways, and ultimately, the city’s people. For a food- and arts-focused walk, spend a few hours on the Greenway; start in Chinatown and end downtown. In 2025, the Greenway Food Truck Program had 22 vendors, with 16 identifying as female-, BIPOC-, or LGBTQ-owned businesses. For art of epic proportions, don’t miss Jeffrey Gibson’s mural, your spirit whispering in my ear, which towers near Dewey Square and is the first painting created on the Greenway by an Indigenous artist. (Gibson’s mural is on display until April.)

Rose Kennedy Greenway

3 Other Spots to Touch Grass 26

B O S TO N C O M M O N

P U B L I C GA R D E N

K E L L E H E R R O S E GA R D E N

The oldest park in the United States, it was created in 1634. Experience it as part of the 2.5-mile Freedom Trail, which connects 16 historic sites across the city.

Adjacent to the Common, this park opened in 1837 as the first public botanical garden in the country. It brims with plants, fountains, and statues, and is home to a scenic lagoon.

A picturesque space in the Back Bay Fens parkland, the English-style garden contains more than 1,500 roses behind tall green hedges.

W H E R E I T ’ S AT

Mai

Where to Eat Some of the City’s Most Memorable Meals Founded in 2023 by Ghanaian American Nyacko Pearl Perry and Nepal-born Biplaw Rai, Dorchester’s Comfort Kitchen is a celebration of African and Asian diaspora cuisine and their connection to the Americas. Okra, a vegetable introduced to the Americas via the slave trade, is here seared in brown butter and paired with a generous swipe 28

of masala-spiced yogurt and crunchy plantain bits. The menu spans centuries and regions, and, if you read it closely, different types of Americas. At Mooncusser in the Back Bay, Top Chef alum Carl Dooley dials up the elegance of a New England fish house with a $125 tasting menu that celebrates local seafood: Think swordfish confit

with Sungold tomato and lobster soup with tamarind. If it’s Italian you want, Marian Klausner, owner of North End gift shop Shake the Tree, describes Parziale’s Bakery in the same neighborhood as the “best-kept secret” for amazing pizza. Opened in September 2025 in Boston’s Seaport district by owner Kevin Liu, the French-Japanese

spot Mai exudes an unfussy cool: wagyu beef comes with a side of frites, caviar tops chicken tempura, and foie gras fills a duck confit handroll. All of it is served in a beautifully designed space with wood beams, green and gold wallpaper, lavender lighting, and a glassed-in kitchen. Mai does not take reservations, so go early—or be prepared to wait.

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In the Back Bay neighborhood, tried and true Newbury Street is a mile-long road lined with brownstone buildings, high-end retailers, and independent boutiques like Milk Money. (OK, more like eight great blocks.) Be sure to check out Trident Booksellers & Café for giant, cheddar cheese–stuffed tater tots, and stop in Pucker Gallery and Sitka Home Art Gallery, run by Türkiye-born artist Sitka Gulergun.

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Milk Money

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Pucker Gallery

Where to Stay Raffles Boston opened in 2023 as the Raffles hotel brand’s first U.S. outpost. It offers a luxurious stay in the heart of tony Back Bay, with 147 butlerserviced rooms and suites and a Guerlain Spa that includes a 20-meter indoor pool and a sauna. In the Financial District, the elegant Langham, Boston is housed in a centuryold building that spent its first 55 years as the Federal Reserve Bank of Boston; it still has the original brass Federal Reserve seal embedded in its terrazzo floor. Its 312 guest rooms, renovated in 2021, are meant to evoke the shores of New England, and its 1920s-style bar, the Fed, has a vault of rare spirits from around the world. The 65-room Whitney Hotel started out in 1908 as housing for nurses who worked at the Massachusetts Eye and Ear Infirmary in the Beacon Hill neighborhood. Each stay includes a key for discounts at several nearby shops, bars, and restaurants. Borrow one of the hotel’s complimentary bicycles to visit the Massachusetts State House and Museum of African American History, just a halfmile away.

Raffles Boston

Additional reporting by Laura Dannen Redman and Bailey Berg

A NEW ERA OF CULTURAL DISCOVERY Welcome to a world of romance and discovery—where ocean travel aboard Explora Journeys’ elegantly designed ships invites you to faraway horizons, unhurried days, and moments filled with wonder. Rooted in European refinement and crafted to spark curiosity, connection, and a renewed sense of awe, Explora Journeys takes travelers deeper into the essence of each destination. New journeys across Alaska, Asia, Iceland, and Greenland immerse guests in culture, cuisine, and natural beauty. The upcoming addition to the fleet, EXPLORA III, introduces new ways to experience these regions through thoughtfully curated itineraries. Sail aboard EXPLORA III to explore Alaska’s blue-ice glaciers, verdant forests, and pristine waters from 2027 on, with enriching pre- and post-journey options that bring The Last Frontier’s wilderness and culinary scene to life. Inaugural voyages to Iceland and Greenland will showcase natural beauty, ice-carved fjords, volcanic mountains, and geothermal hot springs. Later that year, EXPLORA III will journey into Asia’s heart, where sacred temples, tranquil gardens, and futuristic skylines coexist peacefully. With 28 culturally rich itineraries, the ship will visit destinations across Japan, South Korea, Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, Malaysia, Indonesia, and Singapore. Guests aboard EXPLORA V, launching winter 2027, can savor the quieter beauty of the Mediterranean season— complete with Naples’ legendary New Year’s Eve fireworks seen from the sea. The ship will debut with elegantly redesigned spaces that further enhance comfort and connection to the ocean. Each Explora Journeys voyage is an invitation to experience the Ocean State of Mind, through oceanfront suites, refined dining, and oceaninspired wellness, designed to offer enriching moments of discovery, relaxation, and connection. Discover more at ExploraJourneys.com

W H E R E I T ’ S AT

Old State House

Pay Your Respects

A Day at the Museum Inside the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, visitors will find the predictable Rembrandts and Manets. But Gardner, a Gilded Age heiress who opened the museum in 1903, also collected works by contemporaries such as John Singer Sargent and Rosa Bonheur, plus Islamic art and marble Greek sculpture. This mix portended a new America that was already underway: a diversity of ideas and aesthetics, and, eventually, people. In 1990, two thieves stole several well-known works, including three Rembrandts and a Vermeer, and the museum is still searching for the missing paintings (look for the empty frames on the walls). The Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA) was originally founded in the 1930s and moved to its current Seaport location in 2006. In addition to wandering amid rotating exhibits from established and emerging contemporary artists, enjoy the view of the harbor through the building’s huge windows. In the summer, visitors can catch a boat to the ICA Watershed in East Boston, where past exhibits have displayed work from artists including Hew Locke and Guadalupe Maravilla, whose transdisciplinary practice centers Indigenous traditions.

Granary Burying Ground, established in 1660, is where some of the city’s most famous have been laid to rest: John Hancock and Samuel Adams, both signers of the Declaration of Independence, and Paul Revere, best known for his midnight ride (memorialized by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow) on April 18, 1775, to warn colonists that the British were coming.

Consider the past a little differently with… E V E RYO N E 2 5 0 , a

collection of more than 100 organizations and people highlighting the diverse perspectives that have shaped Boston over time. everyone250.org Q U E E R H I S TO RY B O S TO N , a nonprofit

that dates to 1980 and hosts a popular LGBTQ history walking tour of the Boston Common and Public Gardens. queer historyboston.org R E VO L U T I O N 2 5 0 ,

which promotes heritage tourism and commemorates landmark events. revolution250.org 32

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum

HISTORY IN

EVERY HUE.

Follow trails through time. Touch copper stone, shaped by turquoise waters. Revel in a magenta sunset before you witness the stars that once guided those before us–only in Vibrant Arizona. AZHistoryLovers.com

W H E R E I T ’ S AT

Auntie Kay & Uncle Frank Chin Park

In the Neighborhood(s) Near Chinatown Gate

Boston has 23 distinct neighborhoods. Dorchester, one of the farthest south, is its largest at more than six square miles. Visit SoWa (South of Washington) in the South End for artist open studios at 450 Harrison Avenue; Seaport for a strollable waterfront; Beacon Hill for historic homes and antique stores; and Chinatown (pictured) for bakeries and boba tea shops. It is the only historically Chinese neighborhood in New England.

LOGAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

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Beacon Hill Chinatown Seaport

South End DORCHESTER BAY

Dorchester

Beach Street

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W H E R E I T ’ S AT

Listen Up At the lively Grace by Nia, Boston’s first Black woman–owned supper club, live music accompanies dishes such as fried chicken and biscuits or oxtail and grits. Built in 1900, Symphony Hall is a National Historic Landmark where audiences can enjoy performances by two orchestras—the Boston Symphony Orchestra and the Boston Pops—along with other concerts and events. Legendary venue Wally’s Café Jazz Club has been around since 1947, and in the years since, has hosted performances by the likes of Billie Holiday, Charlie Parker, and Dizzy Gillespie. P L U S : Musician Matt

Bowker’s 90-minute Soundscape walking tour of the Back Bay and Fenway neighborhoods includes stops at record stores, jazz clubs, and dive bars. sound scape-tours.com

Grace by Nia

Cathedral of the Holy Cross KENDALL SQUARE CAMBRIDGE

DOWNTOWN BOSTON

Innovation Trail CHARLES RIVER

Follow Another Famous Trail In the past four centuries, Greater Boston has birthed its fair share of discoveries in science, technology, and medicine, highlighted on the 21-stop Innovation Trail. Use its map to take a self-guided tour of Boston and Cambridge, from MIT labs to the Ether Dome at Massachusetts General Hospital, or join one of its expert-guided walking tours or scavenger hunts. theinnovationtrail.org 36

Take Me to Church Old North (Boston’s oldest church building) and Trinity (with its American Romanesque style) may get more foot traffic, but don’t miss the massive Cathedral of the Holy Cross, listed on the National Register of Historic Places and seemingly designed to awe: Think soaring ceilings, stained glass windows of biblical characters, and majestic arches like there was a fire sale on majestic arches. It was built in 1875, and in January 1964, John F. Kennedy’s memorial mass was held here after his assassination on November 22, 1963.

SEASONS BEACHINGS FROM

THE HOLIDAYS SHINE BRIGHTER IN MYRTLE BEACH, SOUTH CAROLINA. When the winter season begins, the Grand Strand’s trademark Southern hospitality turns into contagious holiday cheer and its sunny days lend their shine to holiday lights at night. There’s a spectacle everywhere you go, from the jaw-dropping Nights of a Thousand Candles displayat Brookgreen Gardens to the can’t-miss holiday variety shows at The Carolina Opry Theater. Take a stroll alongside the twinkling lights lining the Murrells Inlet MarshWalk and find the perfect place for dinner and

live music in the “Seafood Capital of South Carolina.” In North Myrtle Beach, you can check out The Great Christmas Light Show, a self-guided two-mile light show featuring displays up to 55 feet tall, after an evening shopping for unique gifts at Barefoot Landing. You might just find your next holiday tradition at The Beach – Myrtle Beach, South Carolina.

Scan to plan a holiday at The Beach. VisitMyrtleBeach.com

Why cruise when you can Cunard

To sail with Cunard® is to dine in the finest restaurants at sea, to be inspired by unique enrichment, and to discover new cultures and coastlines. Wander sun-drenched Caribbean shores, witness the grandeur of Alaska’s glaciers, unwind on an iconic Transatlantic Crossing, or drift through the serene Norwegian fjords – each voyage crafted to delight in distinctive Cunard style.

Contact your Travel Advisor, call (800) 728-6273, or visit Cunard.com/AFAR ©2026 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype, Queen Mary 2, Queen Victoria, Queen Elizabeth, and Queen Anne are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.

JEFFERY CROSS

READY, SET, GET OUT THERE: AFAR’S ULTIMATE GUIDE TO TRAVELING THIS YEAR

YES,

Paris i s al ways a go o d id ea.

B U T B U C H A R E S T, R O M A N I A (the “little Paris of the East”)

has a lively bar scene and Belle Époque architecture—and draws a fraction of the crowds. J A PA N ’ S S A D O I S L A N D surprises with pristine white-sand beaches and relaxing onsens, and has none of the tourism congestion that plagues Kyoto. And S T. L O U I S ’ S arts and culture offerings rival those in much larger cities.

ISN’T IT TIME THESE PLACES GOT THEIR DUE?

I N 2 0 2 6 , we want to lessen the burden on over-touristed destinations

and expand visitation to more varied spots across the world. On the following pages, you’ll find 2 4 E M E R G I N G R E G I O N S and O V E R L O O K E D L O C A L E S —as well as the resources and

recommendations to make these trips a reality. We chose these places because they allow for this kind of responsible travel, yes, but also because they will inspire you to start planning your next great adventure right now. —Edited by EL LE N CA R P EN TE R

IMMERSE YOURSELF IN

The Waters, JUNGLES AND CULTURES

Of Belize. Renowned as an ecotourism destination, Belize is home to the Belize Barrier Reef, Maya historical sites, Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary & more. We’ve preserved much of our lands, seas and culture, so plan a trip to experience it soon and

Grab Life in Belize. Learn more at TravelBelize.org.

Aboriginal heritage, live music, and a flourishing food-and-wine scene meet on South Australia’s coast.

At Shōbōsho in Adelaide, diners can try cocktails made from yuzushu, a yuzu liqueur.

Historically, Adelaide, the culturally rich coastal capital of the state of South Australia, has never been as accessible as the country’s other gleaming metropolises. But that changed in December 2025, when United Airlines launched direct flights from San Francisco—the Australian region’s first-ever nonstop option from the U.S. Adelaide’s story begins with the Kaurna people, whose history travelers can learn about at the Aboriginal cultural center Yitpi Yartapuultiku, which opened in June 2025 after recent reconciliation efforts. The name means “Soul of Port Adelaide,” which nods to its riverside location, where visitors can hike the restored shoreline habitat and take in Aboriginal art along with dance and music performances, as part of the center’s programming. Music is woven into Adelaide’s DNA. The capital marked a decade as Australia’s only UNESCO City of Music in 2025, and that spirit 42

ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO In this high desert city, Route 66 winds its way past contemporary galleries and updated vintage hotels.

New Mexico’s largest city is a crossroads in more ways than one: where the Chihuahuan Desert meets the Colorado Plateau, where the adobe buildings of Old Town stand next to mid-century modern motor courts on Route 66. But Albuquerque, a common launching point to Santa Fe and Taos, is a destination in its own right. Ahead of the Route 66 Centennial in 2026, Albuquerque’s Department of Arts & Culture partnered with Santa Fe’s immersive art organization Meow Wolf in tapping local artists to develop large-scale murals and interactive art installations that will line the city’s 18-mile stretch of Route 66 (also known as Central Avenue), from the new Route 66 Visitor Center to the Singing Arrow neighborhood. The city is working with the collaborative arts group Friends of the Orphan

Signs to revitalize historic neon signage—and keep Albuquerque shining bright. Mu st-v isit spot s i n tow n include the neon-lit KiMo Theatre, a pueblo deco downtown landmark that was recently restored and hosts everything from rock shows to ballets; Old Town’s Albuquerque Museum, where galleries tell the story of the city through artifacts and interactive exhibits; A. Hurd Gallery, featuring artist Anthony Hurd’s depictions of queer cowboys and a reimagined West; and Teddy Roe’s, a 1920s-style speakeasy in the alley behind Italian restaurant M’tucci’s Bar Roma, which itself occupies a former service station on Route 66. W H E R E TO STAY: The newly renovated Arrive Albuquerque is a former Route 66 motor inn, now reborn as a retro-chic 137-room, six-story hotel with a pool and a gallery highlighting the work of Southwestern artists. Its restaurant, DWTNR Cocktail Bar & Lounge, serves Southwestern and Pan-Asian plates such as coconut shrimp toast made with fried milk bread, and green chili smashburgers with Hatch chili Velveeta. —Matt Kirouac

The majestic KiMo Theatre opened in 1927 in downtown Albuquerque.

FRO M LEF T: JACK FENBY; ERI C WILLIAM S

ADELAIDE, AUSTRALIA

is on display at the Thebarton Theatre—affectionately known as the Thebby—which reopened in October after an $8 million transformation, bringing new life to the nearly century-old venue. And each year, the city’s stages swell with international talent during Adelaide Fringe, Australia’s biggest arts festival, and WOMADelaide, a global celebration of music, arts, and dance. Adelaide is also quietly evolving into one of Australia’s best food cities, thanks to top players like Shōbōsho, a Japanese izakaya restaurant that turns out salmon tataki on an indoor yakitori grill, and newcomers such as Homeboy, a coffee and “sando” shop run by 20-year-old TikTok star Tom Oswald. In 2026, the 19th-century Central Market, South Australia’s most visited attraction, will unveil a major expansion, doubling its footprint. The culinary story continues just beyond the city limits in Australia’s famous wine country. In McLaren Vale, sip shiraz at Lino Ramble’s tasting room and pair braised kangaroo tail with a local chenin blanc at the Salopian Inn. W H E R E TO S TAY: Opened in the city center in 2024, the Adelaide Marriott was carefully built into a historic post office, preserving the existing 152-year-old structure. There are references throughout to the post office (the Penny Blue restaurant, named for a rare blue stamp) and surrounding wine country (interior colors range from leaf green to dark red, following a vine’s life cycle). —Aislyn Greene

BIRMINGHAM, ALABAMA

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ZACK SYLVAN; MOLLY BOLTON; COREY FAVINO; JESSE LEGG

This Southern hub is hungry for the title of top U.S. food city.

Pork ribs in red sauce, oysters on ice, fried green tomatoes, sugary French patisserie: Birmingham, Alabama, is quietly obsessed with food. “I wouldn’t say the cat’s out of the bag, but there’s a paw,” says Melissa Booth Hall with a laugh. Hall is codirector of the Southern Foodways Alliance, which protects and promotes Southern culinary culture and hosts an annual symposium in Birmingham, drawing hundreds of chefs. “Serious foodies know Birmingham,” she says, “but I think [most] travelers are just waking up.” Visitors should rise early on Saturdays for the downtown Farmers Market at Pepper Place, with around 80 farmers and vendors. From there, make a beeline to Continental Bakery, a mainstay of the English Village neighborhood, to get cinnamon rolls and wild yeast sourdough loaves fresh from the oven. For restaurants in town, James Beard Award nominations grow like the kudzu vine. José Medina Ca macho, cofou nder of t he Mexican spirits–focused cocktail bar Adiõs, was a 2025 finalist for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service, and multiple Best Chef Southeast winners call the city home. One is Frank Stitt, a Southern food legend and owner of the Italian spot Bottega and the French bistro Chez Fonfon. Adam Evans won the award in 2022 for his Automatic Seafood & Oysters and co-opened a second spot, Current Charcoal Grill, in 2024. Another chef gaining recognition is Rob McDaniel, a multiple James Beard Award semifinalist, who opened his second restaurant,

Clockwise from top left: In Birmingham, explore Railroad Park; enjoy martinis at Armour House; get a good night’s sleep at the Painted Lady hotel; and try Gulf yellowfin tuna with Cara Cara oranges at Bayonet.

the seafood-forward Bayonet, in 2025. “Our oyster list is extensive,” McDaniel says. “We also break down fish in front of guests. It’s important to who we are.” Dining downtown has never been more vibrant. Recent openings include Armour House, a brasserie with an attached craft cocktail bar, Pogo, and Johin’na,

a Japanese restaurant offering an omakase experience, oysters, and sushi (the Birmingham roll has crab, cucumber, fried catfish, and spicy mayo). W H E R E T O S TAY: Elyton Hotel, Autograph Collection is set in a 1909 skyscraper of molded terracotta and pink granite. Located downtown in the theater district, it

has 111 guest rooms and six suites. The Painted Lady debuted downtown in 2025 with 22 whimsically decorated rooms inside the historic Eyer-Raden Building. The hotel’s name is a nod to Louise C. Wooster, a brothel owner who went on to become a town hero as a nurse during a cholera outbreak in 1873. —Jenny Adams

Bucharest’s Old Town is full of neoclassical and neobaroque buildings, including the grand CEC Palace, one of the city’s most famous landmarks.

With a focus on restoring prewar buildings and a bustling nightlife, the former Communist capital lives up to its title as the “little Paris of the East.”

A 1930 printing house turned Gen Z culture hub. A World War II German headquarters transformed into a stunning hotel. A former sheet-metal factory brought back to life as a neon-lit nightlife destination. In recent years, Bucharest has converted industrial buildings into eclectic spaces, particularly in and around the Cișmigiu district. At Palatul Universul, the former printing house, visitors should order a cocktail featuring 46

The past few years have also seen more variety in Bucharest’s food scene as Romanian classics are newly interpreted: At Arzu, in the old Jewish Quarter, diners can try stuffed bell peppers with a glass of Romanian mustoasă de măderat white wine. Or they can visit Soro Lume, on the eastern side of the city, for mushroom-glazed pork cooked overnight in a wood-fired oven. W H E R E T O S TAY: The Corinthia Bucharest opened in March 2025 in a Belle Époque building that began life in 1873 as the Grand Hotel du Boulevard. It was later used as a German headquarters during WWII and as the Ministry of Culture during Romania’s Communist era. Now, the 30-suite hotel has a skincare-focused spa and a restaurant in the art nouveau ballroom. —Erin Vivid Riley

BUFFALO, NEW YORK The city’s African American Heritage Corridor gets revitalized with a reborn jazz club and first-ofits-kind Black radio museum, setting the tempo for wider change.

In Buffalo’s burgeoning Michigan Street African American Heritage Corridor, history isn’t just behind glass—it’s on the mic. The Historic Colored Musicians Club & Jazz Museum, one of the nation’s oldest Black-owned clubs, will reopen in spring 2026 after a three-year, $3.2 million overhaul. The renovation adds an elevator-accessible performance space, upgraded lighting and sound for live-streaming, and

ALE X AND ER S PATARI

BUCHAREST, ROMANIA

Romanian-made pollen liqueur at Fix Me a Drink, attend a contemporary dance performance at Linotip, and check out goods from local makers at Mezanin Space. A block from Boulevard Regina Elisabeta is No Room Taproom, a major player in the city’s growing craft-beer scene. And a few blocks away is Bar Ton, a hip listening bar where patrons can spend a n even i ng d r i n k i ng vermouth-heavy cocktails while enjoying DJ sets. After sunset, the place to be is Platforma Wolff, a sheet-metal factory turned club, for dancing until morning. EVA Foundation, a new arts space dedicated to works by women, opened in October 2025 in a 1930s townhouse in the city center. The debut exhibition, Sirens, includes pieces by Judy Chicago and Jenny Holzer.

A MOMENT MADE FOR YOU.

ALILA VENTANA BIG SUR

new interactive exhibits. Museum president George Scott says visitors are often surprised by how deep Buffalo’s jazz roots run; the club’s stage has welcomed icons such as Ella Fitzgerald alongside homegrown talent like Elvin Shepherd and Dodo Greene. “[The Club] is going to be a big factor in drawing people to Buffalo,” Scott says. “They may come for Niagara Falls, but they leave with a love of jazz.” On the same block, WUFO Black Radio History Collective will open in 2026 as the nation’s first museum dedicated to Black radio. Charting the evolution from reel-to-reel and cassettes to podcasts, it explores radio’s outsize influence on popular culture and civil rights. For WUFO owner Sheila Brown, the goal is simple: She wants visitors—especially young people—to leave “thinking that radio is still cool” and to understand the importance of “telling your own narrative.” Change is afoot throughout the corridor. The 180-year-old Michigan Street Baptist Church, whose founding members were actively engaged in the Underground Railroad, unveiled a major interior restoration in January 2025. In October 2025 the

Buffalo has many changes in the works for 2026, including several in the downtown area.

city secured an additional $12 million in funding for the corridor project to repave streets, widen sidewalks, add landscaping, and more. “The whole area is changing,” Brown says. That momentum can be felt citywide. The Buffalo Bills’ new $2.2 billion Highmark Stadium is expected to open in time for the 2026 NFL season, and the first phase of the 100-acre, $200 million Ralph C. Wilson, Jr. Centennial Park will debut in 2026 along the Lake Erie shoreline with a pedestrian bridge and landscaped gardens. From the corridor to the lakefront, it’s clear Buffalo is ready for its next act. W H E R E TO STAY: The Richardson Hotel is set in a transformed 19thcentury psychiatric hospital, a National Historic Landmark. Designed by Henry Hobson Richardson and with sprawling grounds by Frederick Law Olmsted, it’s now an 88-room retreat with Romanesque arches and original wood flooring. —Ashlea Halpern

Marking the border of Oregon and Washington, the Columbia River Gorge begins 30 miles east of Portland and packs a stunning amount of natural splendor into its 80 miles: wildflower meadows, moss-covered rainforests, sheer cliffs, and nearly 100 waterfalls. It’s no surprise that Lancaster and other visionaries built the nation’s first scenic byway here, the Historic Columbia River Highway, between 1913 and 1922. While just a fraction of visitors make it past Multnomah Falls, near the western entrance to the gorge, those in the know continue east to riverside towns such as White Salmon and Hood River. Portions of the historic highway are now a state trail for car-free recreation; one standout section

is the new Mitchell Point Tunnel, a 655-foot-long cliffside passageway with riverview arches that opened in March 2025. Hood River in particular is luring visitors with impressive culinary and beverage offerings. In 2023, Hiyu Wine Farm—a combination farm, tasting room, and restaurant serving multicourse seasonal meals—fetched a James Beard Award nomination for its wine program. From Ferment Brewing Company to pFriem Family Brewers, tasting rooms abound in this craft beer hub; Kings & Daughters’ new taproom, the Walled Garden, opened in fall 2025. W H E R E T O S TAY: The upscale outdoors hospitality company Under Canvas debuted its latest

The Columbia River Gorge has nearly 100 waterfalls, including Tunnel Falls.

COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE, OREGON AND WASHINGTON “There is but one Columbia River Gorge [that] God put into this comparatively short space, [with] so many beautiful waterfalls, canyons, cliffs and mountain domes.” This is how engineer Samuel C. Lancaster described the volcano- and floodforged gorge more than a century ago, and the sentiment remains relevant today.

FROM LEFT: JESSE CHEHAK; ETHAN WELTY

Come for the outdoor adventure and scenic drives, stay for the seasonal restaurants in this majestic Pacific Northwest landscape.

Where does fantasy

become reality?

From inviting nature to inspiring art to fun and fantastical stays, you never know what you’ll find in Knoxville. We welcome you to discover our endless treasures hiding in plain sight. Plan your trip at VisitKnoxville.com.

S HE A E VAN S

Da Nang’s streets are lined with food stalls, including Dua Ben Tre 196, which sells coconut jelly and coconut ice cream.

glamping outpost near White Salmon in 2025. From April 23 to October 26, book one of its minimalist, Mount Hood–view tents, with evening s’mores and stargazing. For a cozy retreat, enjoy geothermal hot springs and snug rooms at Bonneville Hot Springs Resort & Spa, which reopened in February 2025 after a renovation. Hood River welcomed Lightwell Hotel & Spa in fall 2025. Located in a carefully restored 1904 building, it has 69 rooms and suites, a rooftop bar, and a spa with a hot tub, cold plunge, and sauna open to all guests. —Zoe Baillargeon

DA NANG, VIETNAM

COURTESY OF SCENIC GROUP

Surf breaks, street eats, and jungle trails meet in this major port city.

The largest city in central Vietnam, Da Nang is framed by 40 miles of golden, Miami Beach–like coastline. Long a popular getaway for those living in Vietnam—a place to swim and surf and feast on noodle soups like mi quang—it’s finally capturing global attention after decades of being overlooked by international travelers headed to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Five airlines, including Emirates and Philippine Airlines, launched new flights in 2025 connecting Da Nang to Bangkok, Manila, and other cities in Asia. In 2026, Nobu is expected to open a 200-room beachfront hotel and Mandarin Oriental will debut 22 luxury residences. The region is full of natural wonders. Just four miles south of downtown are the Marble Mountains, five limestone outcrops with pagodas, grottoes, and Buddhist shrines hidden inside caves. To the north is the Son Tra Peninsula, a coastal rainforest and nearly 11,000-acre nature reserve.

Book a wildlife-focused tour with the woman-owned ecotourism company Next Continent to see critically endangered red-shanked douc langur monkeys while trekking along the coast. Da Nang is also a gateway to Hoi An, a UNESCO World Heritage site just 40 minutes south. The ancient town was a bustling port from the 1400s to the 1800s, and its maze-like streets are filled with remarkably wellpreser ved buildings mixing Chinese, Vietnamese, Japanese, and European architectural styles. A ticket to enter Hoi An Ancient Town (about $5) grants visits to five of 22 heritage attractions, including the 17th-century Phuc Kien Assembly Hall, a pagoda with a green tiled roof and intricate wooden carvings of people and animals. At night, take a boat ride along the Hoai River surrounded by floating, glowing lanterns. WHERE TO STAY: InterContinental Da Nang, the only luxury hotel set in the rainforest, is a perfect base for spotting wildlife. Guests can also indulge in an eight-course menu (scallop mousseline, wagyu beef) at the city’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, La Maison 1888. At the beachfront Tia Wellness Resort, meanwhile, enjoy spa treatments, cooking classes, and wellness activities while staying in private villas. —Liz Provencher

EAST ANTARCTICA New small-ship voyages open access to the world’s most remote frontier.

Travel to Antarctica is at an alltime high. But while more ships are departing from Ushuaia, Argentina, for the Antarctic Peninsula, lesser-visited East Antarctica offers a more exclusive

experience, with fewer crowds, towering ice cliffs, and a better chance to see emperor penguins. A growing number of smallship expedition cruises are departing from Hobart in Tasmania, Australia, or New Zealand’s South Island, including ones from Heritage Expeditions; Scenic Luxury Cruises and Tours; and Aurora Expeditions, whose newest purpose-built ship, the Douglas Mawson, made its maiden voyage in December 2025. It takes about a week to cruise to East Antarctica, and the journey is far from uneventful, moving from

rest on ice floes. Or it could be Cape Adare, home to the world’s largest accessible Adélie penguin colony, with an estimated 330,000 breeding pairs. Shore excursions offer a chance to walk among penguin, seal, and seabird colonies and explore the region’s human history, with preserved huts once used by explorers, including Ernest Shackleton, Carsten Borchgrevink, Robert Scott, and Douglas Mawson, now openair museums. And only here can adventurers see the jagged peaks of the Transantarctic Mountains marching toward the South Pole.

Scenic Tours’ Ross Sea expedition cruise to Antarctica is a 24-day voyage.

open ocean to drifting sea ice and vast tabular icebergs. Expect talks by onboard experts such as polar explorer Robert Swan, who joins Scenic Tours’ expedition “Antarctica’s Ross Sea: Majestic Ice & Wildlife” in January 2026; or t here m ig ht be v isit s to subantarctic islands—perhaps Australia’s Macquarie Island, home to four species of penguin, including royal penguins with their striking yellow crests. Travelers’ first glimpse of Antarctica might be the immense Ross Ice Shelf towering 160 feet above the cobalt depths of the Ross Sea, where orcas and humpback whales cruise the pack ice and Weddell and crabeater seals

W H E R E TO S TAY: For those leaving from Hobart, the Tasman, a Luxury Collection Hotel, is a short stroll from the Mawson’s Huts Replica Museum and the Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery, with its long-term Antarctica exhibition Islands to Ice. The hotel is home to the Italian-inspired Peppina, from celebrated Australian Italian chef Massimo Mele. Travelers departing from Queenstown, New Zealand, will want to soak up sublime Lake Wakatipu views from the Roki, a luxury hotel that opened in September 2025 with 15 suites, including a grand sevenbedroom option with a rooftop balcony and private sauna and spa. —Sarah Reid

WINTER RENEWAL IN MAINE Slow down to embrace the tranquil wonders of a cold-weather retreat in Maine.

Slip away to snowy forests, serene beaches, and firelit evenings with friends to feel as if you’ve stumbled upon a secret— wintertime in Maine. It’s a season when the state’s elemental soul shines through, inviting you to breathe deeply and revel in the stillness of nature. From wooded trails and tucked-away harbors to cozy coastal pubs, connect with the hushed beauty and cherish the luxury of slowing down.

Seek out the shimmering Northern Lights in Aroostook County, a dark-sky haven where the aweinspiring aurora dances among

the stars. Cosmic ribbons of chartreuse and violet ripple high above the evergreens between October and April each year. Follow wildlife tracks in Rangeley while you snowshoe across untouched drifts, spotting the fresh footprints of foxes, deer, and maybe even a moose. If you’d rather make your own trails, head to the spacious slopes at Saddleback or Pleasant Mountain, family-friendly ski areas with timeless New England character.

Warm up around a crackling wood fire with friends and a little Sweetgrass Blueberry Smash port,

or go for the local favorite, Allen’s Coffee Brandy with milk. Come morning, witness curls of winter sea smoke rising off the coast of Camden, then take a rejuvenating hike up Mount Battie. Marvel at the panoramic views of the bay below as you plan your next adventure. Art galleries and fine dining in Rockland? Ice fishing on a frozen lake? Cross-country skiing on age-old carriage roads in Acadia National Park?

Wherever your winter wanderings lead you, discover the season’s hidden charms and snow-covered enchantment—and return with

your spirit rekindled. Exhale, press pause, and renew your inner sense of peace in the quiet wilds of Maine.

Plan your winter escape at VisitMaine.com

In Maine, winter is something to embrace—through thoughtful craft as enduring as the season itself. Handmade skis and heirloom snowshoes reflect the same artistry found in shop windows lined with cozy knitwear and one-of-a-kind gifts. Whether you’re carving a trail or browsing a gallery, each piece connects you to the people and spirit that make Maine shine in every season.

Nassau’s quieter cousin promises pretty pink-sand beaches and plenty of solitude.

About 70 miles east of Nassau, the Bahamian island of Eleuthera draws its name from the Greek word eleutheria, which means freedom. And that’s exactly what travelers will feel here. Even with the summer 2024 opening of Lighthouse Point on Eleuthera’s southernmost tip (Disney’s latest private cruise destination in the

The Farm’s freshwater pool is just a short walk from some of Eleuthera’s best beaches.

Bahamas), there’s a sense of place and peace here that’s far removed from the mass tourism that can overrun other Bahamian destinations such as Nassau and Grand Bahama during high season. It’s easy to spend a few days exploring Eleuthera’s narrow, 110-mile spine, from tony Harbour Island—with its tidy grid 54

Uncle Hon’s BBQ in East London serves a mix of Texas and Chinese barbecue.

FAR EAST LONDON A new cultural quarter and a slew of creative restaurants make this the city’s most exciting area.

London’s epicenter of cool has been on a steady eastward march for decades, and now, culture lovers will want to venture a bit farther: Sadiq Khan, London’s mayor, invested more than £1 billion ($1.33 billion) to transform the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (where the 2012 Games were held) into the East Bank cultural quarter. Located east of Hackney and Bethnal Green, it’s easier than ever to get there, thanks to the Elizabeth line, which links Soho to Stratford in 20 minutes. February 2025 saw the opening of Sadler’s Wells East, an outpost of London’s premier dance theater, followed in May by the V&A East Storehouse, which brings together 250,000 artifacts from the Victoria & Albert collection, ranging from samurai swords to Elton John’s stage costumes. Its nontraditional storage-facility aesthetic has earned it (loving) comparisons from architecture critics, who have

likened it to an Ikea warehouse and a cabinet of curiosities. Visitors can book an appointment to interact with items as part of its radical “order an object” program. Next up, V&A East, an associated museum with rotating exhibits, will open in spring 2026, with the new home of the BBC Music Studios debuting nearby later in the year. Beyond cultural institutions, the surrounding postindustrial neighborhoods of Hackney Wick and Fish Island (actually a peninsula bounded by canals) have been bubbling with ground-level creativity for years. Recent openings include the Black-owned community hub Badu Café; Unlock, a pizzeria and cocktail bar run by two Neapolitan siblings; the Chinese-Texas-style Uncle Hon’s BBQ; and Inis, a seasonal Irish spot with a killer full Irish breakfast. Between meals, visit the not-for-profit Community Sauna Baths and Coven, a Black-owned queer venue. W H E R E TO S TAY: The 145-room Stratford, Autograph Collection pairs Scandinavian-inspired interiors with plant-filled rooftop terraces. In May 2025, the hotel welcomed Kokin, a wood-fired Japanese restaurant offering

FRO M LEF T: ALE X AND ER ELWING ; CO U RTESY O F U N CLE H O N�S B BQ

ELEUTHERA, BAHAMAS

of streets lined with pastelcolored cottages that conjure both New England and Key West—to Governor’s Harbour, established in 1648, one of the oldest settlements in the Bahamas. Travelers will want to stop at roadside stands for flamingopink conch shells or fresh mangoes and sapodillas. Adventure seekers should make their way to the precipice above Sapphire Blue Hole to take the leap into one of several natural sinkholes—reminiscent of Mexico’s cenotes—pocked into Eleuthera’s karst topography. There’s also fine dining for those who want to get dressed up and clink champagne glasses; book a table at the Fig Tree in the Potlatch Club, a mid-century modern social club set on a former pineapple plantation and reborn in June 2024 as one of Eleuthera’s most luxurious boutique resorts. Mostly, however, the island’s timeless appeal comes from breathing easy knowing there’s nowhere urgent to be, lingering on flour-white and blush-pink beaches with hardly a soul in sight. It’s something that will come naturally, the Potlatch Club’s co-owner, Hans Febles, assures guests. “Eleuthera is not a place you come to do,” he says. “It’s a place you come to be.” W H E R E TO S TAY: Ben Simmons and his wife, Charlie, opened the Farm in late 2024, one of four properties in their Little Island Hotels chain. Its 12 elegant wooden cottages are surrounded by fruit trees and are just a five-minute stroll to the beach. Most of the restaurant’s produce—avocados, eggplants, and more—is grown on-site. Just across the sound, fronting Pink Sand Beach on Harbour Island, Coral Sands Inn & Cottages’ recent renovations fully embrace tropical maximalism, with seashell details and shades of pink and sherbet. The eight sea cottages have private paths that lead directly to the sand. —Terry Ward

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Portuguese bluefin tuna collar and tempura lobster. The Gantry London, Curio Collection by Hilton sits just two minutes from the bustling Stratford International Station and has 291 rooms and suites, as well as a Colombian coffee shop, a steak house, an Afro-Caribbean restaurant and music venue, and a “sparkling bar” serving U.K.-made sparkling wine and other fizzy drinks. —Nicholas DeRenzo

FORT WORTH, TEXAS From cowboy culture to Black history, Cowtown is putting its heritage front and center.

Thanks to Beyoncé’s Cowboy Carter album and shows like Yellowstone, Fort Worth’s Western roots feel more current than ever. The city’s legendary Stockyards, a National Historic District since 1976, have been reimagined with boutiques and restaurants taking up residence in the area’s former mule and horse barns. Even Yellowstone creator Taylor Sheridan has gotten in on the action, purchasing and remodeling the renowned Cattlemen’s Steak House in 2025. (Now he’s at

work on a private members’ club downstairs.) The spirit of Cowtown lives on with year-round rodeos at the Cowtown Coliseum; the annual Fort Worth Stock Show & Rodeo (including the Cowboys of Color Rodeo on January 19, 2026); honky-tonking at Billy Bob’s; and the world’s only twice-daily cattle drive along East Exchange Avenue. In November of 2026, the National Cowgirl Museum will debut a 16,000 -squa re-foot expansion; one of the new exhibits will feature a number of outfits from country singer Miranda Lambert’s Velvet Rodeo residency in Las Vegas. Until then, visitors can take in Soldaderas to Amazonas: Escaramuzas Charras, an exhibit that brings Mexico’s all-female equestrian tradition to life through vibrant dresses and embellished saddles.

But there’s more to Texas’s fourth-biggest city than rodeos and honky-tonks. Groundbreaking for the National Juneteenth Museum is slated for early 2026 in the historic Southside neighborhood. The museum—whose founding board member, 99-yearold Opal Lee, was instrumental in making Juneteenth a federal holiday in 2021—will focus on the legacy of emancipation and the ongoing struggles for equality, justice, and unity. “We’re located in an area that was somewhat of a Black Wall Street in the early 20th century,” says Christopher Blay, director of public programs. “We are part of what’s bringing this community alive again.” Designed by the Bjarke Ingels Group, it will feature immersive exhibitions, a 250-seat theater, and a food hall spotlighting diasporic cuisine. The

ZI GY K ALUZNY

Fort Worth’s Cowtown Coliseum hosts weekly rodeos, as well as major events like the Premier Women’s Rodeo World Championship.

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building will have a courtyard designed in the shape of a nova star, which is at the center of the Juneteenth flag, symbolizing a new path forward. W H E R E TO STAY: The Nobleman Fort Worth opened in May 2025, incorporating the facade of an old firehouse in the Near Southside neighborhood. Inside, an original fireman’s pole and staircase lead to art-lined walls and a brasserie, Duchess, serving rib eyes, roast chicken, and fried eggplant schnitzel. Sandman Signature Fort Worth Downtown Hotel is set to reopen in 2026, bringing fresh life to the 1920 W.T. Waggoner Building, a neoclassical marble, brick, and terra-cotta tower. —Nora Walsh 58

HARLEM, NEW YORK CITY As iconic institutions reopen after major renovations, the upper Manhattan neighborhood and Black cultural capital is ready to share its rhythm and resilience with visitors.

The heady swing of jazz legend Duke Ellington and his contemporaries still reverberates in the storied Manhattan blocks from 110th to 155th streets. And now, the stretch—which contains multiple historic districts—is poised to offer residents and visitors reasons to explore more deeply.

Its revitalization will be especially visible in some of the neighborhood’s most famous institutions. The Studio Museum in Harlem—which reopened in November 2025 with seven floors of galleries, workshops, artist studios, and education centers— represents the street, the stage, and the sanctuary. And under the longtime direction of chief curator Thelma Golden, the new museum edifice also represents a fourth social sphere with the “inverted stoop” inspired by Harlem brownstones, which invites people to sit and find community. Less than a five-minute walk west of the museum is the legendary Apollo Theater on 125th

D ROR BALDING ER , FAIA

Harlem’s Studio Museum reopened its doors in November 2025 after a seven-year renovation.

Street. Originally a burlesque venue, by the 1930s it became a home for some of the world’s most transformative Black artists, helping launch the careers of James Brown, Luther Vandross, H.E.R., and many more in its long-running Amateur Night competition. As the main Apollo Theater undergoes a major renovation and preps for its grand reopening in late 2026, live performances continue at Apollo Stages, next door in the Victoria Theater. Also set to reopen in 2026 is the National Black Theatre, which is located at the corner of 125th Street and Fifth Avenue. It was founded by the late actress Dr. Barbara Ann Teer in 1968 to provide a platform for new and emerging Black voices. From here, head south to the Harlem Meer in Central Park. In April 2025, the $160 million Davis Center debuted with a massive swimming pool, winter skating rink, turf field, and pavilion, completely transforming the north end of the park. W H E R E T O S TAY: Renaissance New York Harlem Hotel opened in 2023 at the Victoria Theater on 125th Street with a Cajun-inspired restaurant, lobby lounge, and 211 rooms and suites, many with stellar city views. For a homier stay, consider the Mount Morris House, a fully restored 1888 Victorian townhouse that has two spacious suites overlooking Marcus Garvey Park. —Shannon J. Effinger

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Community-focused wildlife conservancies, rare protected species, and sustainable luxury lodges make this East Africa’s new center of responsible safaris.

“There are lions here,” whispers Segera Retreat guide Peter Ngimat, stopping the Land Cruiser. Not three minutes later, a lioness stalking a zebra creeps out of an acacia thicket on a 50,000-acre wildlife conservancy in the grasslands of Kenya’s Laikipia Plateau. What tipped him off? A footprint? An antelope’s alarm call? “A feeling,” says Ngimat, who was raised in a nearby village and sharpened his instincts growing up in the bush. “Sometimes you just know.” Located about 140 miles north of Nairobi, Laikipia is a county with an economy driven by both agriculture and tourism. Since British settlers first claimed land there in the early 20th century, the area has faced persistent conflict between large-scale commercial ranchers and pastoralists. Today, many community-run or private conservancies are based on former farms and work hand in hand with locals, like Ngimat, to transform degraded land into

Suites at andBeyond Suyian Lodge look out over the Laikipia Plateau.

Madhya Pradesh, the “tiger state of India,” is home to nine tiger reserves, including Pench National Park.

MADHYA PRADESH, INDIA This central India state surprises at every turn, with tiger reserves and otherworldly stargazing.

Often called the heart of India due to its central location, Madhya Pradesh is also its tiger stronghold, home to 785 of the big cats—the highest number of any state in the country, which itself is home to 75 percent of the world’s tiger population. But the thrill of spotting wildlife here goes beyond big cats. In Satpura National Park, the only reserve in India to allow guided walking safaris in its core zone (a highly protected area with limited tourism activities), visitors can glimpse sloth bears, leopards, and hundreds of bird species (kingfishers,

crested serpent eagles) while winding through dense tropical forests and streams. To the southeast and straddling Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh, Pench National Park— said to have inspired Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book—offers classic jeep safaris as well as cycling routes through teak and bamboo groves. Its rich wildlife includes gaur (known as the Indian bison), wild dogs, and, of course, tigers. Pench also impresses after dark. Free of light pollution, the park is renowned for clear stargazing. Lodges such as Pench Jungle Camp can arrange star walks and telescope sessions, plus local forest department–run darksky safaris to spot constellations and the Milky Way. W H E R E T O S TAY: Jungle Camps India runs conservation-driven lodges in Pench, Kanha, and Rukhad, offering eco-conscious cottages and luxury tents, with night and day safaris led by trained naturalists. Close to Satpura Tiger Reserve, Reni Pani Jungle Lodge has earthy-chic cottages and a handful of canvas tents overlooking a water hole. The property specializes in immersive, low-impact safaris— think walking trails, canoe trips, and overnight wilderness camping. —Poonam Binayak

FRO M LEF T: AND B E YO ND ; MAN U EL RO MARI S

LAIKIPIA, KENYA

prime habitat for more endangered species—including African wild dogs—than anywhere else in East Africa. “These conservancies create a direct link between conserving wildlife and earning a livelihood,” Ngimat says. “Then the community naturally feels a strong sense of ownership and responsibility.” If Laikipia is known for one animal, it’s the rhinoceros. The region’s stronghold of rhino sanctuaries, including Ol Jogi and Borana, added another to their ranks in June 2025 when the Zeitz Foundation and Kenya Wildlife Service moved 21 black rhinos into the new Segera Rhino Sanctuary. This was a major milestone in the effort to establish what will become the Kenya Rhino Range Expansion, one of the largest interconnected rhino sanctuaries in the world with some 840,000 acres. W H E R E T O S TAY: Opened in July 2025, andBeyond Suyian Lodge in the Suyian Conservancy offers views across the plains to Mount Kenya from 14 suites with private plunge pools. Segera Retreat is located on a private reserve and has 10 villas and houses. The property also has an extensive collection of contemporary art from Africa and its diaspora curated by owner Jochen Zeitz, the cofounder of Cape Town’s Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa. —Alexandra Owens

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Menton’s Plage des Sablettes, at the base of the old town, is especially popular among families with young children.

MENTON, FRANCE

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France’s last coastal stop before Italy is also its most delicious.

More than 300 days of sunshine a year define this Franco-Italian border town, nicknamed the “Pearl of France,” where candycolored buildings cascade between the Alpes-Maritimes and glittering Riviera beaches. Menton's mild, subtropical microclimate is so uncommon that its lemons— intensely fragrant, with an edible rind and no bitterness—have Protected Geographical Indication status and can’t be grown anywhere else on the continent. Menton offers a tranquil version of the French Riviera, with Italian influences woven through its architecture and restaurants. The Italian Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco has spent two decades building a restaurant mini empire, starting with his now threeMichelin-starred Mirazur, and his vision of a more sustainable way of dining has quietly transformed the town. His Mitron Bakery is the place to go for breads made with ancient wheat flour; La Pecoranegra, for wood-fired pizzas; and Casa Fuego, for grilled meats and seafood. In 2026, coinciding with Mirazur’s 20th anniversary, Colagreco will inaugurate his most ambitious project yet: an 11-suite luxury hotel set beside Mirazur’s garden. Restaurants across Menton celebrate the incredible bounty of the region. At Pasta Piemonte, Luisa Delpiano Inversi serves lemon ravioli and other fresh pastas, and at JR Bistronomie, chef Jérôme Rigaud creates traditional Gallic dishes with Italian influences, such as a caramelized tomato tart and red mullet fillets with fennel, tomato confit, and basil.

There’s more to Menton than food. Wander beyond the old town’s winding streets to discover 137 rare citrus varieties at the two-and-a-half-acre Jardin d’agrumes du Palais Carnolès, surrounding a former Monaco royal summer residence, or visit the Palais de l’Europe to see its Jean Cocteau exhibition (through August 2026). Travelers should also pop into Les Sablettes Beach Club, part of Menton’s newly redesigned seafront promenade. W H E R E TO S TAY: The boutique Hôtel Gabriel reopened in 2025 with 35 charming rooms and a patio bar in Menton’s historic center. Housed in an elegant 1885 neoclassical building designed by architect Hans-Georg Tersling, the sumptuous Villa Genesis has sea-view terraces, a pool, and impeccable service. —Jenn Rice

Oulu is located where Finland’s Oulu River meets the Bothnian Bay.

OULU, FINLAND Art, innovation, and the beauty of the north converge in this 2026 European Capital of Culture.

Given its location only 100 miles south of the Arctic Circle, it’s unsurprising that Oulu, Finland’s northernmost major city, has managed to fly under the radar for so long. But in 2026, a continental spotlight will hit the lively university town, one of the year’s two European Capitals of Culture. A three-day winter festival in midJanuary will kick off a yearlong celebration of the region with more

than 1,000 events, exhibitions, performances, and public art projects. Oulu’s year of culture leans into its northern grit and offbeat humor. (This is the city that hosts the Air Guitar World Championships.) There’s Frozen People, an electronic music festival taking place on the sea ice, and Polar Bear Pitching, a Shark Tank–style competition where entrepreneurs propose start-ups while waist deep in Arctic waters. The concert Beyond the Sky will look to the cosmos with a multimedia blend of astrophotography, orchestral music, and imagination. Plans to honor the culture of the Sami, the European Union’s only Indigenous people, include the debut of a new opera, Ovllá, exploring the reclamation of their heritage and the community’s subjugation by the state. For intrepid palates, the five-course surprise menu at Oula Kitchen

& Bar in the Lapland Hotels Oulu is a culinary journey of the north’s diverse bounty (think: reindeer, arctic char, lingonberries). For something lighter and livelier, Cafe Konstantiina pairs Finnish pancakes with live music and theater performances. In August, Arctic Food Lab, a group focused on promoting northern gastronomy, hosts Summer Night’s Dinner, a half-mile-long communal table that runs through the city center where anyone can bring food and make new friends. W H E R E TO STAY: Lapland Hotels Oulu reopened in May 2025 after the first stage of a major renovation; in January an additional 96 rooms will be available, some with private saunas. De Gamlas Hem, a home for wealthy seniors in the early 20th century, now operates as a 17-room boutique hotel with a seasonally-driven restaurant. —Susan Portnoy

Y E L L O W S T O N E T H E M O N TA N A WAY

Winter north of the park.

Winter in Montana’s Yellowstone Country has range. Hit the slopes at Big Sky Resort, Bridger Bowl or Red Lodge Mountain. Glide Nordic trails. Ride miles of groomed snowmobile routes and sled the backcountry with a guide. Ice-climb frozen falls and fat-bike scenic winter loops.

When it’s time to warm up, small towns deliver: Relax in hot springs, linger over inventive menus and local pours, browse galleries, catch live music and settle into stays that make snowy nights the best part of the trip.

WEST YELLOWSTONE

GA R D I N E R

Wide-open spaces and miles of groomed trails make the picturesque, all-American small town of West Yellowstone the “Heart of Winter Adventure.” Hit the backcountry or experience Yellowstone National Park on a guided snowcoach or snowmobile tour. At day’s end, take advantage of cozy dining and lodging options in this bustling community affectionately known as “West.”

Discover the unspoiled wilderness of Yellowstone by cross-country skiing, snowshoeing or backcountry skiing as you never have before — in a real-life snow globe. Our favorite trails offer frozen waterfalls, steaming thermal features and ample wildlife sightings. Wrap up a day of adventure at a local eatery and a fine lodging establishment, or unwind with a soak at our area hot springs.

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BOZEMAN

LIVINGSTON

Discover winter in Bozeman, where snow-dusted peaks inspire adventure at every turn. Ski worldclass slopes, soak in hot springs, and enjoy lively downtown nights. From crisp mountain air to cozy ﬁreside moments, Bozeman is where mountains move you.

Explore Livingston, Montana, “the Historic Gateway to Yellowstone Park,” and indulge in refined or rustic dining and lodging as well as a vibrant arts and shopping district. After exploring the region’s legendary wilderness, rejuvenate around a camp fire, revel at local festivals, enjoy microbreweries, hit the dance floor or watch stars from hot springs.

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Plan your winter getaway to Montana’s Yellowstone Country now at VisitYellowstoneCountry.com/Winter..

The Yellowstone you haven’t seen yet. There’s Yellowstone — and there’s Yellowstone the Montana way: north of the park, where powder days roll into small-town nights. Discover the landscapes you know — and the Montana you don’t — in Yellowstone Country.

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by calling 1.800.736.5276 or going to VisitYellowstoneCountry.com.

PENANG ISLAND, MALAYSIA Hike highland trails and devour delicious hawker fare in this multicultural haven.

A photo-essay cookbook from Apartamento and Belmond, Penang: Recipes & Wanderings Around an Island in Malaysia (2024), captures the area’s dining scene, from street food stalls to local delicacies.

In 2024, UNESCO recognized Malaysia’s breakfast culture as an Intangible Cultural Heritage: Woven deeply into daily life here, it’s a blend of Malay, Chinese, and Indian dishes such as nasi lemak (coconut rice served with egg, anchovies, sambal, cucumber, and more) and roti canai (a flaky flatbread served with a dipping

curry), and the meal offers a chance for people to gather and enjoy their mornings together. Though Penang is ringed by sand, it’s not a beach destination so much as a place of hills and hidden trails. Locals volunteer to maintain footpaths that wind into the granite highlands, some carved in whimsical animal shapes, like the

Unicorn Trail. “The volunteerism in our hiking is very, very special,” says Ooi Geok Ling. W H E R E T O S TAY : The Millen Penang, Autograph Collection opened in February 2025 in George Town with 146 rooms and suites, two restaurants, a spa, and an infinity pool with views of the Andaman Sea. —Kathryn Romeyn

LU O YANG/CO U RTESY O F APARTAMENTO AND B ELM O ND

Penang Island, one of two parts of the Malaysian state of the same name, has the whimsy and color palette of a Wes Anderson film, the energy of a major city, and arguably Asia’s most interesting food scene. But don’t call it a melting pot. “A melting pot seems to suggest you throw everything in and don’t recognize the original ingredient,” says Ooi Geok Ling, former director of Penang Global Tourism. “We are probably more of a salad, a rojak— there’s a special sauce that binds it, but every piece stays itself.” That mix is especially vivid in George Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site where crimson threewheeled rickshaws roll past ornate Chinese clan temples and colorful shophouses that have been transformed into restaurants and hotels, such as the forthcoming 15-suite Soori Penang. Along and just off the half-mile Street of Harmony, four different houses of worship— an Anglican church, a Hindu temple, a Chinese Buddhist temple, and a mosque—stand within steps of one another. The island’s multicultural community comes together in festivals, too, from the Hindu celebration of Thaipusam each winter to the George Town Festival every August. Food here unites. Penang’s hawker stalls dish out fiery, subtly smoky char koay teow noodles and tangy assam laksa; some of them are among the island’s 27 Bib Gourmand spots. There are also two Michelin-starred restaurants, Au Jardin and Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery.

The Moroccan capital is fast becoming a cultural hub thanks to new museums, hotels, and Africa’s largest music festival.

“Why would you take people here?” That’s what Farah Cherif D’Ouezzan, the founder of the Rabat-based Center for Cross Cultural Learning, recalls being asked when she first began running study abroad programs and educational trips to Morocco’s capital in 1995. For years, travelers have flocked to the country’s other imperial cities—Marrakech, Fès, and Meknes—but this outpost on the northwestern Atlantic

The Fairmont La Marina Rabat-Salé overlooks the confluence of the Bou Regreg River and the Atlantic Ocean.

A volcanic island, Saba is just five square miles and has only four towns with a total population of 2,000.

site that reopened after a major restoration in 2024 with Roman and Marinid ruins surrounded by landscaped gardens. For D’Ouezzan, the draw of Rabat lies in its small scale and unhurried pace: watching kids jump into the Bou Regreg River from the earthen red walls of the Kasbah of the Udayas, a citadel from the 12th century; connecting with residents like Mohammed Aziz, who’s eager to discuss the books at his store, Bouquiniste El Azizi; and tasting bastilla, a multilayered pastry with poultry and almonds, at the restaurant Dar Chrifa. In Rabat, D’Ouezzan says, “You have time to stop and talk to people, taste the food, and see everything.” W H E R E T O S TAY: Fairmont La Marina Rabat-Salé opened in 2022 with a rooftop pool and 186 elegant guest rooms. The Waldorf Astoria Rabat Salé is set to open in early 2026 inside the Mohammed VI Tower, Morocco’s tallest building. At the northern end of the medina is Euphoriad, a 19th century residence transformed into a stunning riad by Moroccan architect Chafiq Kabbaj. It now has eight rooms and suites, a two-story duplex with bay windows overlooking an interior garden, and a terrace pool with panoramic views. —Yulia Denisyuk

SABA The tiny Dutch Caribbean island offers craggy cliffs, coral reefs, and quietly charming villages without the crowds.

Touching down on Saba feels like landing on the edge of the Earth. A smooth 12-minute flight from Sint Maarten wraps with a white-knuckle descent onto the world’s shortest commercial runway—a narrow strip carved into a cliffside. From there, a drive up “the road” (there’s only one) cuts through Saba’s four villages, home to just 2,000 residents in total: Hell’s Gate (or Zion’s Hill), known for its historic buildings and scenic views; Windwardside, the most tourist-friendly, with restaurants, hotels, and shops; St. John’s, a small residential village; and the Bottom, the island’s capital, set in a bowl-like valley. Saba isn’t your typical tropical escape. There are no whitesand beaches, large resorts, or major cruise ships, just the wild beauty of the “Unspoiled Queen of the Caribbean.” The tiny island is only five square miles and sits at the tip of a dormant underwater volcano. Most travelers come for world-class diving with thriving marine life, including spotted

FRO M LEF T: CO U RTESY O F FAIRM O NT; RO CI O ARRIETA

RABAT, MOROCCO

coast has been largely overlooked, considered more of a governmental hub. That’s changing. In June 2025, Rabat’s annual Mawazine music festival welcomed a record 3.75 million people who came to see performers including Afropop pioneer Salif Keita and Grammy Awa rd–w i n n i ng rapper K id Cudi. In 2026, the city will bear the title of UNESCO World Book Capital, recognized for its “54 publishing houses, the thirdlargest international book and publishing fair in Africa, and a growing number of bookstores,” according to UNESCO. And two new museums—of African culture and archaeology—are expected to open in late 2026. Visitors can also dig into Rabat’s history at Chellah, a first-century b.c.e. archaeological

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This under-the-radar spot rewards those in the know with tranquil shores, bountiful seafood, and a legacy of gold.

eagle rays, hawksbill turtles, and tiger sharks. (The island and its unusually large specimens of tiger sharks were recently featured on an episode during Discovery Channel’s Shark Week.) Others come to summit the 2,910-foot Mount Scenery, often shrouded in clouds. But there’s plenty to do at sea level, too. Visitors can swim at “wandering beach,” a rare black-sand stretch at Wells Bay that appears sporadically, depending on the tides and the season. Another option is to hike Mas Cahones Hill with James Johnson, aka Crocodile James, a native Saban whose family has lived on the island for eight generations. He helped build the hiking network by hand, and shares the island’s stories and secrets as he leads treks along the best trails. Book a tour through the Saba Conservation Foundation’s website or by calling them directly. W H E R E TO S TAY: Juliana’s Hotel is set on the slopes of Windwardside, within walking distance of the parks, shops, and restaurants in the area. The boutique hotel offers ocean-view rooms and traditional gingerbread-style Saban cottages. (Opt for the spacious Orchid Cottage.) Opening in February 2026 at the foot of Mount Scenery, the Scenery Hotel will be Saba’s first luxury boutique property, with bungalow-style rooms and secluded suites as well as a restaurant and infinity pool. —Bianca Bujan 70

Off the coast of Japan’s Niigata Prefecture, Sado Island is easily accessible from Tokyo via a twohour bullet train and a 60-minute ferry ride. But despite a striking landscape of forested mountains, wide sandy beaches, and aquamarine bays, the island—the sixth largest in the Japanese archipelago—is a world apart from the country’s heavily Instagrammed, over-touristed hot spots. Today Sado is home to fewer than 50,000 residents and is largely unknown among international travelers.

Visitors to Sado Island can take a ride in a tarai-bune, a tub boat.

Another only-in-Sado experience is a trip in a tarai-bune, the tub boat depicted in the 2001 animated film Spirited Away by acclaimed director Hayao Miyazaki. Though they’re more of a tourist draw these days (Yajima-Kyojima is a popular boarding point), the wooden vessels are sometimes still used for fishing and, per tradition, operated primarily by women. The anglers have a glass-bottomed box that floats alongside the boat, serving as a window into the Sea of Japan. WHERE TO STAY: In 2024, the hospitality brand Nipponia opened a scattered collection of stand-alone kominka (traditional rural homes). The historic houses, which have been immaculately restored, operate as a single full-service hotel. Guests can choose to have a breakfast basket delivered each morning; every element—from the rice to the horse mackerel and miso—is local to Sado. Visitors can also stay in seaside hotels and onsens, such as the elegant Hotel Oosado, known for its exceptional food and open-air baths. —Freda Moon

SOUTHERN PERU With colonial cities, celebrated gastronomy, and new tented camps, this region delivers a journey that blends adventure with tradition.

Nobel laureate Mario Vargas Llosa would often say that, to him, “Peru is Arequipa.” The towering figure in Latin American literature (who passed away in April 2025) praised his hometown, located more than 600 miles south of Lima, for its wild volcanic setting, proud mestizo culture, and plazas lined with perfectly preserved 16th-century buildings in pearly volcanic stone, earning Arequipa its nickname, the White City.

MAIBARU TR AVEL

SADO ISLAND, JAPAN

During the summer months, when the temperatures reach the 70s and 80s, Sado’s dramatic coastline draws Japanese beachgoers. The island has a remarkable bounty, including sweet shrimp, abalone, and Sado beef as well as persimmons that are famous throughout Japan. The 400-year-old Sado Island Gold Mines are the largest gold and silver mines in Japan: Doyu no Warito, a mountain split in two by a massive 98-foot-wide, 243-foot-deep chasm, was handdug in the 1600s at the start of the gold rush. In 2024, the mines were designated a UNESCO World Heritage site; now, they feature video reenactments with local people instead of professional actors and offer tours that navigate underground shafts where life-size animatronic “miners” greet visitors.

ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI The Gateway City reemerges as an artistic hub of America’s Midwest.

Peru’s Colca Canyon is one of the deepest canyons in the world.

Travelers should begin here to plot grand adventures across Southern Peru, as well as to feast on Arequipa’s gastronomy, recognized by UNESCO for its purity and tradition. Vargas Llosa, in particular, was a fan of Arequipa’s women-run picanterías—like Picantería La Cau Cau II and La Nueva Palomino—which serve hearty local dishes such as chupe de camarones (a river shrimp chowder) and adobo (a tangy pork stew) alongside chicha de guiñapo, an alcoholic drink. After fueling up in Arequipa, explore the world’s highest navigable lake, Titicaca, or the gaping Colca Canyon, which is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, with SA Expeditions, a B-Corp–certified company that puts together some of the most adventurous tailormade trips in Peru. 72

“The best pa r t about t he south—apart from its astonishing views, traditions, and cultures—is how raw, real, and true everything feels,” says Lorenzo Masias, head of commercial at the high-design Peruvian hotel brand Andean, which has built adventure lodges across Southern Peru, helping open it up to international travelers. This includes two new safari-style tented camps: Puqio, which debuted on the rim of Colca Canyon in 2024, and Tinajani, which launched in the red-rock Tinajani Canyon in April 2025. Andean’s latest hotel will rise in 2027 on Suasi Island, on Titicaca’s isolated northern coast. W H E R E T O S TAY: Sleep under vaulted ceilings in a converted 16th-century monastery at Cirqa, a Relais & Châteaux property with a plunge pool and rooftop

St. Louis’s artistic resurgence has been years—even decades—in the making. Half a century ago, residents voted to tax themselves to make cultural attractions free for visitors, but the momentum really picked up in 2018, when the Gateway Arch and its surrounding national park reopened as part of the $380 million CityArchRiver project. The riverside landmark suddenly became more than just a photo op—it symbolized the city’s

broader reinvention, where the arts are leading the way. The Grand Center Arts District has emerged as one of the country’s best artistic hubs, focused on repurposing historical structures and giving local creators space to grow alongside international artists and Broadway touring companies. September 2025 saw the reopening of Powell Hall, the 100-year-old home of the St. Louis Symphony Orchestra, following a $140 million renovation and 64,000-foot expansion, as well as the debut of the Sovereign, a 1,200-capacity concert venue. The Old Courthouse—where Dred and Harriet Scott sued for their freedom and Virginia Minor, founder of the first women’s suffrage organization, attempted to vote—reopened in May 2025, marking the final phase of the CityArchRiver project. Visitors can learn about Black life in 19th century St. Louis at the courthouse’s Pathways to Freedom exhibit. St. Louis isn’t just focused on attracting audiences, but on building community, as well. The city began investing in housing for artists through the STL Art Place Initiative, which transforms vacant properties into affordable live-work spaces. The new projects join a slate of cultural mainstays, from the Opera Theatre of St. Louis, currently celebrating its

St. Louis’s 100-year-old Powell Hall reopened in 2025.

FROM LEFT: KEVIN FAINGNAERT; COURTESY OF ST. LOUIS SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA

terrace overlooking Arequipa’s historic center, with views of the city’s volcanoes. Then head out to remote Tinajani, six hours away, where wannabe archaeologists can immerse themselves in an earlier era of Andean exploration, when geographers and anthropologists searched for the “lost cities” of the Inca. Set on a 400-acre private conservation area, the retreat has just six tents, and daily excursions include bike rides along the canyon and hikes among the puyas de Raimondi plants. —Mark Johanson

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50th anniversary, to Shakespeare in the Streets, which pairs seasoned playwrights with locals to write and perform original plays based on the Bard’s stories. WHERE TO STAY: The 21c Museum Hotel St. Louis opened in 2023 with 173 rooms, showcasing art exhibitions and partnering with local entrepreneurs. The free on-site museum means you’re only one elevator ride away from thoughtful and immersive installations, including The Way Out West, which covers the stairwells and carpets with hundreds of photographs of native flora and fauna. At the Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis, guests check in on the eighth floor and are immediately rewarded with panoramas of the Arch and Mississippi River. Keep the good views going at the Sky Terrace’s rooftop pool and private cabanas. —Caitlin Morton

STOCKHOLM ARCHIPELAGO, SWEDEN A new trail allows adventurous visitors to explore 20 islands in the Baltic Sea, easily accessible from the Swedish capital.

Want to summer like a Swede? Skip Stockholm and instead head to its archipelago, which technically begins a few minutes outside of the city, covers an area the size of Houston, and comprises some 24,000 postcard-perfect, tranquil islands. Navigating it is easier than ever, thanks to the Stockholm Archipelago Trail, a hiking path network that launched in October 2024 to help support local businesses and encourage responsible visitor flow. The trail covers 170 miles across 20 islands—connected by ferries—with well-marked paths.

MORGAN LEVY

Grinda island has a handful of swimming coves, including Källviken, a popular sandy beach.

WEST CORK, IRELAND

Many people on a first trip to Ireland head for the southwest, visiting places like the Ring of Kerry and the Lakes of Killarney. The Irish, though, go to West Cork, which marks the start or end of the 1,500-mile Wild Atlantic Way along Ireland’s west coast. Here, traffic thins and slows just off the main road, and tree-lined backstreets lead to craggy peninsulas. Although this is part of the country’s “wild” corner, there’s a hint of softness here. Visitors will

but from here a 10-minute ferry ride leads to the artists’ haven Sherkin Island. Or head farther out to Cape Clear Island, where lavender grows between the stone walls, to try Cape Clear Distillery's seaweed-flavored gin. Back in Baltimore, the “Works of Art” tasting menu of two-Michelinstar Turkish restaurant Dede at the Customs House awaits. WH E R E TO STAY: Dunmore House in Clonakilty offers peace and quiet with views overlooking the Atlantic. Its Adrift restaurant relies on local ingredients, including many from its own Ocean Garden. Native, a sustainably designed ecoguesthouse in Ballydehob, opened in 2024 and has three guest rooms and two garden suites. Twenty percent of its profits go toward financing a local rewilding project. —Yvonne Gordon

The Irish coastal village of Baltimore is the main ferry port to Sherkin Island and Cape Clear Island.

MI CHEL CO L ACI

Travelers with a week to explore would be wise to choose a portion, such as the center and northern archipelago. Begin an hour from Stockholm in Vaxholm, considered the archipelago’s capital, and after checking into the newly restored Waxholms Hotell, walk a mile and a half to the Bogesundslandet peninsula and its 7,000-acre Bogesundslandet Nature Reserve, thick with pine and oak trees. From Vaxholm, boats to surrounding islands leave regularly, providing travelers with a chooseyour-own-adventure experience. For a nature reserve with a hiking trail and swimming coves, head to Grinda. To sweat like a Swede, visit the island of Finnhamn and reserve a beautiful beachfront sauna before plunging into the sea just beyond. And for typical Swedish fare and a tattoo in the same afternoon, stop by Jeppes Gästgiveri, a restaurant and bar (and makeshift tattoo parlor) on the island of Möja, which has only 150 year-round residents. When it’s time to catch your next ferry, head down to the dock and raise the semaphore (the foldable sign on the jetty) to let the boat know it should stop. W H E R E TO S TAY: Ingmarsö B&B has six rooms spread across two former farmhouse buildings on its namesake island. Its divine breakfast spread is best enjoyed outside. Dating to 1906, Grinda Wärdshus was once the summer home of the Nobel Prize committee director. Today it includes a sprawling terrace overlooking the nearby sound, a lobby stocked with books and games, and a restaurant decorated with photos of legends who have visited over the years. —Katherine LaGrave

On the southern stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way, travelers can uncover a less harried coast.

find enchanting towns, such as Kinsale and Clonakilty, as well as sandy beaches, rocky lookout points, and the occasional landmark lighthouse, like Galley Head outside of Rosscarbery. This is a place to linger and watch the bay full of bobbing boats at Glandore Harbour or the waves rolling in at Owenahincha Beach. On tiny Garinish Island, a 15minute ferry ride from Glengarriff, wander among lovingly tended Italian gardens that are open to the public. For total peace, visit the Bronze Age–era Drombeg Stone Circle at dawn, and at night, join Atlantic Sea Kayaking for a moonlit adventure at Castlehaven Bay and a chance to see the water glow with bioluminescence. Arriving in the tiny village of Baltimore, travelers will feel as if they’ve hit the bottom of Ireland,

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Experience Tampa Bay in Style Shop designer boutiques, see renowned contemporary art, and dine in Michelin-starred restaurants.

Among Tampa Bay’s many charms, quality, comfort, and style— indoors and out—stand out for travelers searching for a sunny destination. Shop the International Plaza’s 170plus stores or pop into Hyde Park Village, located in Tampa’s neighborhood of the same name, and see what’s new in the many boutiques. Explore the impressive collection of ancient and contemporary art at the Tampa Museum of Art, then catch a Broadway show at the Straz Center for the Performing Arts, one of the largest performing

arts complexes in the U.S. Afterward, step onto an 83-foot yacht and take a two-hour sunset cruise with Sunburst Yacht Charters. End your day with dinner at one of several restaurants with a Michelin star. Two of them, Kōsen and Koya, specialize in Japanese omakase. Ebbe features Swedish tasting menus, Rocca crafts modern Italian dishes, and the Mediterraneaninﬂuenced Lilac serves seasonal prix-ﬁxe menus. Start planning at VisitTampaBay.com/ LuxuryGetaway

Stay in Tampa’s Elegant Hotels Tampa’s Water Street district is now more attractive than ever thanks to The Tampa EDITION, a recently opened ﬁve-star property by celebrated hotelier Ian Schrager. Its seven food and beverage options include the Red Room After Hours, a late-night lounge with disco balls, champagne, and caviar. The spa features signature Yon-Ka facials and bespoke treatments. At the JW Marriott Tampa Water Street’s rooftop pool, enjoy sunset with a handcrafted cocktail before ocean-to-table cuisine at its Driftlight Steakhouse.

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8 Michelin-Recognized Restaurants

The Palm Beaches offer a different kind of Florida escape—more relaxed and less crowded than other vacation hotspots.

Nestled along 47 miles of coastline in South Florida, The Palm Beaches are home to a collection of 39 vibrant cities and towns. In Palm Beach, experience the Gilded Age at the Henry Morrison Flagler Museum, then explore the luxurious Breakers Palm Beach hotel or iconic Worth Avenue. Play classic games at Silverball Retro Arcade in Delray Beach and browse

art galleries and boutiques in the Pineapple Grove Arts District. Tee oﬀ at one of six championship courses at PGA National Resort in Palm Beach Gardens to putt on the same green as golf legends. Kayak beneath cypress canopies along the Loxahatchee River in Jupiter’s Jonathan Dickinson State Park. Enjoy renowned

Two restaurants received Michelin’s Bib Gourmand award: Aioli, lauded for its locavore approach, and Palm Beach Meats, an elevated butcher shop.

wellness treatments at Spa Palmera at The Boca Raton hotel, or relax in the Boca Raton Museum of Art’s outdoor sculpture garden. On Thursdays, attend Clematis by Night, West Palm Beach’s legendary live music event that features local bands. Discover more at ThePalmBeaches.com

Michelin also recognized Būccan for James Beard award–nominated chef Clay Conley’s creative small plates and Moody Tongue Sushi’s 13-course omakase. The contemporary steakhouse, Nicholson Muir, also made the cut. Other Michelin-recommended spots include Coolinary and the Parched Pig, which features seasonal cuisine; Stage Kitchen & Bar with its Indian inﬂuences; and the Butcher’s Club, helmed by James Beard–winning chef Jeremy Ford.

OOHS

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St. Pete-Clearwater is all about immersing yourself in the finer things in life. But the warm sunshine and beautiful beaches are just the beginning. Legendary resorts, elevated art experiences, and MICHELIN-recommended restaurants await.

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Creative Energy, Coastal Charm, and Endless Sunshine Over 30 museums, more than 600 murals, multiple arts districts, dozens of galleries, and more await amid perfect weather in St. Pete-Clearwater.

Dig your toes into sugary white sand or take a dip in warm Gulf of Mexico waters to see why the beaches of St. Pete-Clearwater are often voted among America’s best. But there’s a creative side to discover here, too. Light, sound, and images surround you in the immersive Dalí Alive 360 experience at the Salvador Dalí Museum. Catch a concert at the BayCare Sound, downtown Clearwater’s 4,000seat, eco-friendly concert hall along the waterfront.

Massive public art installations complement the relaxed outdoor atmosphere of the newly opened St. Pete Pier. You can also shop the local arts and crafts marketplace; dine at seaside bistros, cafés, and bars; and go on an eco-boat trip around Tampa Bay. Sip ales, lagers, and other brews at nearly 50 locally owned breweries along the Gulp Coast Craft Beer Trail. Cheers! Check it out at VisitSPC.com

The Art of Glass Learn about the history of the American Studio Glass Movement and see nearly 500 works of contemporary glass art from worldwide artists at the Imagine Museum, which is dedicated to raising the genre’s proﬁle. Admire the colorful, abstract sea creatures made of glass at the Chihuly Collection presented by the Morean Arts Center, a permanent exhibition of more than a dozen Dale Chihuly installations in downtown St. Pete.

Tranquil beaches that stretch for miles. Treasured memories that last forever.

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Discover Amelia Island, Northeast Florida’s elevated coastal gem Nestled on the northeast coast of Florida, Amelia Island is a tranquil escape where 13 miles of pristine beaches set the pace for your well-deserved getaway. Stroll along soft sands as the gentle waves become your very own soundtrack. Explore scenic trails through a rare maritime forest where sunlight dapples through swaying Spanish moss. Or take to the waterways and enjoy kayaking or paddleboarding in salt-marsh estuaries teeming with wildlife. With natural beauty at every turn, outdoor adventure is as endless as the horizon.

Shop, sip and savor the charms One moment you’re out in nature. The next, you’re taking a walk through time in historic downtown Fernandina Beach. Canopied storefronts line cobblestone streets and Victorian architecture tells stories of centuries past. When thoughts turn to dining, over 100 independent restaurants across the island will tempt your inner foodie. Fresh, locally caught seafood, farm-to-table fare, Southern-inspired specialties and other menus await. And with pleasant temperatures year-round, outdoor dining on Amelia Island is always in season.

A true golfer’s paradise to play through 99 holes of championship golf offer challenging play on courses influenced by nature’s design. The newly renovated Oak Marsh course at Omni Amelia Island Resort & Spa makes every round feel like an escape as it weaves its way through stunning scenery. The resort is also home to a 10-hole short course to perfect your game or introduce the next generation to the sport. Oak Marsh

Accommodations draped in Southern hospitality Amelia Island offers accommodations for every style of traveler. Bask in the luxury of an oceanfront resort with private balconies and stunning poolscapes. Stay at a popular brand hotel that puts you just steps from the beach or in the heart of downtown. Unwind in an intimate B&B, or settle into a spacious vacation rental ideal with an ocean view. With the perfect blend of beaches, small-town charm and sunlit outdoor adventures, Amelia Island, Florida is your invitation to unwind. Plan your escape at AmeliaIsland.com

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Sometimes, the best way to put life back into perspective is to leave everything behind you. Here in The Florida Keys, you’ll find endless opportunities to unplug and reconnect with what matters most. From kayaking in hidden mangroves to dancing in the streets, you’ll never run out of ways to lose yourself in magic moments.

VisitFloridaKeys.com 1.800.Fla.Keys

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Where to Sleep Seaside Imagine watching sunset from your beach villa at Playa Largo Resort & Spa. Or perhaps you’d rather golf the historic Cheeca Lodge & Spa’s Jack Nicklaus—designed course. Another option is Hawks Cay Resort, where kids can snorkel in the lagoon followed by a family dinner of Salt + Ash’s farm-to-table cuisine. You could also take a yacht to America’s only private island resort, Little Palm Island Resort & Spa, and stay in a bungalow suite, or book the recently renovated Casa Marina Key West, built by railroad tycoon Henry Flagler in 1920.

Escape to the Islands of The Florida Keys & Key West Swim past coral reefs, go bird-watching, and see centuries-old shipwrecks. Aquatic adventures fill the archipelago that makes up The Florida Keys & Key West, where each experience reflects each island’s distinctive character. Dive into the turquoise waters of Key Largo and swim among the many coral species growing in the U.S.’s only living barrier reef. See what’s biting in Islamorada, as you board a boat and try deep-sea fishing for tuna or mahi-mahi or take a slow cruise through backcountry

mangroves, where tarpon and redﬁsh swim. Learn more about the ocean’s wildlife by touching starﬁsh and swimming with stingrays at Marathon’s Florida Keys Aquarium Encounters. Or, look up at the skies. Go birdwatching and see if you can spot the endangered white-crowned pigeon at Bahia Honda State Park in The Lower Keys, home to more than 200 types of birds, including several varieties of hawks.

Explore the area’s rich nautical history by visiting the Isaac Allerton, a merchant ship that sank in 1856, at the Key West Shipwreck Treasure Museum. Afterward, wander through Key West’s historic and vibrant Old Town to Ernest Hemingway’s house, where he lived and wrote The Old Man and The Sea, opposite the Key West Lighthouse. Plan your escape: VisitFloridaKeys.com

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FEATURES

A r t by L A U R E N H O M

by L isa Abend Photographs by Benjamin McMahon

ACROSS SPAIN, C U L I N A R Y S TA R S A R E H E A D I N G T O T I N Y T O W N S T O G I V E D I N E R S A TA S T E O F T H E I R H E R I TA G E — A N D T O H E L P PAV E A PAT H F O R WA R D F O R P L AC E S T H E Y L OV E . 97

ASTURIAS BASQUE COUNTRY

San Sebastián NAVARRE

Benasque San Feliz

Pamplona

CANTABRIA

Kanpezu

Anciles

Barcelona

ARAGON

Zarza de Granadilla Madrid

Cuenca

E N T E R I N G Z A R Z A D E G R A N A D I L L A , my

Huerta del Marquesado EXTREMADURA

Valencia

CASTILE-LA MANCHA

first thought was that chef Alejandro Hernández Talaván had his work cut out for him. The town of 1,800 baked silently in the July sun, its streets empty, the curtains of beads that covered the doorways of its houses static in the breezeless day. It was not the kind of place that builds an appetite. ¶ And yet, I was here, a three hours’ drive west of Madrid in Extremadura, to eat. Months earlier, I’d heard rumors of thoughtful chefs who were rejecting the busy gastronomic scenes of Barcelona or San Sebastián to open ambitious restaurants in tiny pueblos. Now, my friend David and I were on a six-day road trip that would take us 1,300 miles around the northern half of Spain to visit five of them. ¶ Of course, I wanted to know whether the restaurants were good. But more intriguing to me were the people behind them. Having spent considerable time in rural Spain, I knew that many areas were being hollowed out by depopulation, with residents abandoning their towns for job opportunities in the big cities, and depleting the shops, schools, and clinics that had once made village life possible. The phenomenon is so common—in the last 15 years, more than 80 percent of towns in Spain have lost population—that there’s a name for it: la España vaciada, or emptied Spain. ¶ What, I wondered, would compel an ambitious chef to turn away from the opportunities of a city in favor of a village most people had never heard of? How did they manage to find ingredients, staff, and most of all, customers? And what effects were they having on the villages themselves?

Opposite page: Abandoned in the 1960s, the fortress village of Granadilla is worth a visit for its well-preserved castle and ghosttown feel. Page 96: Deep in the Pyrenees, the village of Anciles has long attracted outdoors lovers; now it’s drawing food lovers as well. Page 97: Chef Xune Andrade opened Monte in the tiny town of San Feliz in 2019. It received a Michelin star in 2022. 98

Zarza de Granadilla, Extremadura S T R O L L I N G T H R O U G H Zarza de Granadilla at midday

may have felt like wandering onto the set of the shootout scene in High Noon, but once David and I stepped inside Versátil, we were sucked into a convivial hodgepodge of brick walls, houndstooth fabric, and enthusiastic Spanish guests. We started with a crisp glass of wine made from the local alarije grape, then embarked on a tasting menu that displayed elements of Spain’s modernist culinary revolution (canapés topped with squid ink gel) but was firmly rooted in Extremadura’s flavors (Ibérico pork, smoky pimenton, cherries bursting with juice). A carpaccio made from the tender meat of an Ibérico pig that had spent months eating acorns from regional oaks was showered in shards of tangy sheep’s-milk cheese and dolloped with ice cream spun from local olive oil. With each course, I felt myself settling deeper into the landscape. “We feel a responsibility not to lose our tradition,” chef Alejandro Hernández Talaván said. “And our legacy is to respect our ingredients.” Alejandro runs the restaurant with his brothers, David and José. All three left Zarza as teens—Alejandro to train with chef Martín Berasategui outside San Sebastián, José to a bank job, David to Madrid’s dining rooms. But when they started dreaming of their own restaurant, they agreed there was only one place it could be: home. They weren’t naive. With no fine dining precedent in the town, the brothers hedged their bets when they opened in 2017 by adding a casual spot in the downstairs 100

bodega, where locals could drop by for croquetas and a glass of wine. Yet as Versátil’s reputation spread, visitors started coming from farther afield. These days, it’s a mix of diners from the nearby cities of Plasencia or Salamanca; travelers passing through; and locals who celebrate birthdays and anniversaries, or—especially since Versátil earned a Michelin star in 2021—bring out-of-town guests. “I think people like to be able to show off that they have a place like this here,” Hernández said. That’s not the only effect. Versátil’s 18 staff members, most newcomers to the town, have boosted the population; spare apartments are rented to tourists on countryside breaks. Producers from the area, including young cheesemakers and a brewery that flavors its beers with local cherries, have a new market. “We’ve become an economic motor for the county,” Hernández said. As he bade us farewell, the chef insisted we visit the neighboring hilltop town of Granadilla but wouldn’t tell us why. Once through its medieval walls, we found narrow lanes that led in one direction to a viewpoint over a vast blue lake below and, in another, opened onto an arcaded plaza perfect for markets and evening strolls. There were no tourists. In fact, there was no one at all. Granadilla had been abandoned in 1965 when its 1,000 residents were evicted and relocated to make way for a dam. This, I realized, was why Hernández urged us to visit: He had sent us to a ghost town to show us what was at stake.

The chef Alejandro Hernández Talaván (pictured, center) runs Versátil with his two brothers, José and David. Part of their mission is sourcing goods and ingredients from local producers, including Extremadura beer. In addition to offering two tasting menus, Versátil serves more informal fare such as paella and carpaccio in its downstairs bodega, which also functions as an art gallery.

San feliz, asturias

T H E N E X T M O R N I N G , David and I drove north through a few hours of dusty flatness until we reached a long tunnel. On the other side lay lush green mountains strung with misty fog. We had reached Asturias, a region on Spain’s Atlantic coast where the climate is cool and wet enough that cider, rather than wine, is the drink of choice. Continuing off the highway for a mile, we parked at the edge of San Feliz, population 23, then walked the 300 feet or so to a jumble of stone houses and a sheep pen that constituted the village. In its center, we found a handsome wooden door with a Michelin placard affixed to it. Through it stepped Xune Andrade, the chef of the restaurant Monte. As we sat down to chat on the terrace, he pointed across the highway to the coal-mining town of Pola de Lena, where he grew up. In his late teens, Andrade left to study economics in the city of Oviedo. But one glimpse at the textbooks convinced him to switch to culinary school, and later, to train at the nearby Casa Gerardo, one of the region’s most acclaimed restaurants. “I didn’t even know what a Michelin star was,” he said of that time. “But cooking became my passion.”

That passion led him to culinary positions at renowned restaurants in Girona, Valencia, and Madrid. But eventually, he found himself longing for his place of origin. “Being in Madrid made me feel even more attached to my home,” he said. “And I wanted to live somewhere calm.” When a village pub came up for sale in San Feliz, he bought it in 2019, along with the house next door. A fine-dining restaurant in coal-mining country was “unthinkable,” Andrade said. So he initially opened Monte as a tapas bar, adding burgers and pizza during its weekend parties. But the pandemic changed things. When Monte reopened after lockdown, distancing restrictions meant Andrade would have to raise prices to make up for having fewer customers—hard to do on burgers and pizza. Instead, he switched to a tasting menu and started delving into the local cuisine. For Andrade, local means the 12 miles or so outside his kitchen door. Free-range chicken is raised in San Feliz; Andrade’s “best friend from forever,” who bought the house next door to him, provides the lamb; and the trout comes from a river down the road. He forages for the mushrooms himself. Accolades like his Michelin star, first earned in 2022, have brought a steady stream of diners to the restaurant, allowing Monte to inject new resources into the local economy. “Ninety five percent of our guests come from outside,” Andrade said. “And 90 percent of our expenses are local.” Once we sat down to eat, it became clear that Andrade is interested in showcasing not only the area’s ingredients, but its culinary culture. The meal started with the most typical of Asturian snacks—a bollo preñao (pregnant bun) stuffed with smoky chorizo and accompanied by housemade vermouth—and progressed through renditions of the region’s classic recipes, from pote asturiano, a hearty bean stew, to a pasta stuffed with slow-cooked lamb and blanketed in a savory sheep’smilk cream. Andrade works so creatively that none of it felt stodgy: The bread, for example, is made from nutty Asturian spelt, but, in a tribute to the area’s historic industry, tinted black with charcoal. The immersion into place continued through to the typical Asturian dessert, filloas, whose shatter-thin sheets of pastry are layered with sweetened cream. Here, the cream came dotted with candied figs and dolloped with a scoop of black ice cream. I suspected that this, too, was intended as another homage to the coal that once defined San Feliz. But Andrade’s sister Lorena, a waiter at the restaurant, pointed to the name of the dish on the menu. The dessert was called Granadilla 1952. It was named after the place and year of their father’s birth—the very ghost town we’d visited. He had left Extremadura to find work in Asturias’s coal mines and died a few months before his son earned the Michelin star. Andrade, too, had inherited the trauma of abandoned villages. It made me think about how personal this kind of restaurant was: as much a story about family as it is about place.

Monte is run by chef Xune Andrade, who is joined in the restaurant by his sister Lorena (pictured, left). The restaurant offers two tasting menus and—befitting of the area—a cider-pairing option as well as the traditional wine pairing. Both are managed by Delia Melgarejo, Monte’s sommelier (pictured, bottom left). One of the restaurant’s most popular dishes is cochinillo, crispskinned suckling pig.

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Kanpezu, basque country F A M I L Y I S W H A T lured Edorta Lamo to Kanpezu

(population 700) in the hilly interior of the Basque Country, a three-and-a-half-hour drive east from San Feliz. Before we sat down in the dining room of his restaurant, Arrea!, he told us about the first Lamo to arrive in the area in 1460—and about his grandparents, who opened a bar there in 1950. Although he grew up in Vitoria-Gasteiz after his parents moved there, and he eventually opened a highly regarded pintxos bar in San Sebastián, Lamo never forgot the idyllic weekends and holidays he spent with his grandparents. Once he became a father, the pull of the pueblo grew stronger. “I started to think I would never forgive myself if I didn’t give my son the chance to grow up with the same sense of freedom and community that I had,” he said. In 2014, he bought the old building that would, in 2018, become Arrea! and began learning from local elders how, in a town where hunger was once a frequent threat, many Kanpezu families survived through furtivismo— poaching game, wild plants, and even firewood from the surrounding mountains. “It generated a lot of shame,” Lamo said. “And that made me want to give something back to the people here. I wanted to show them the richness we have around us.” Richness was an understatement. After a server stretched a checked cloth across our table, Lamo laid down a bounty as the opening course in a tasting menu. Among the 20 or so dishes was a pastrami of wild boar, a ruby-colored tranche of squab cured in beeswax, and a plate of pickled plants that included both cultivated 10 4

vegetables and herbs and flowers foraged from the woods. “Olives” were cured green cherries; crunchy “breadsticks” were dried lamb intestines. In a nod to old lotteries that divided firewood rights, fermented apple leather dusted with lichen was rolled to look like tree branches. What once were poverty foods—acorns, weeds, lichen—emerged as delicacies. Arrea! was awarded a Michelin star in 2022. As we ate, I considered that Lamo wasn’t just showcasing the hyperlocal. He was also demonstrating the beauty and worth of even the humblest ingredients. And in doing so, he was bringing dignity to a subsistence cuisine that had long been dismissed.

Arrea! from chef Edorta Lamo (pictured, left) has multiple dining spaces. The main dining room offers the most extensive gastronomic option, including a picnic of preserves, cheeses, and meats, followed by a minimum of three selections of wild fish and game.

anciles, aragon T H E N E X T DAY, after a four hours’ drive to the northeast,

Iris Jordán (pictured, left) took over her grandmother’s restaurant with her brother Bruno. Stone mansions in the town of Anciles were constructed during the 17th century by families of wealthy ranchers.

David and I were back in the mountains. We passed the lively town of Benasque, with its many shops catering to outdoor sports, and soon came to a clutch of stone buildings. With just 18 residents, Anciles was even tinier than San Feliz. But when chef Iris Jordán, who had worked in prestigious establishments in Madrid, was ready to go into business with her brother Bruno, they never considered an alternative. Iris had been cooking here since she was a young girl. The siblings’ grandmother, Pilarín, had opened a restaurant in the 1980s to cater to Anciles’s then-newly arriving ski tourists. At her side, Iris, who grew up in the town, learned to cook over an open hearth, and to prepare dishes such as recado, the stew characteristic of the region. After leaving at 17 to work in various restaurants, she returned to Anciles in 2019 to cook with her grandmother. Eventually, she began introducing some of her own dishes to the older woman’s repertoire until finally, the two siblings took over the place and rebranded it as a finedining restaurant in 2022. On the day we visited, Iris had laryngitis, so Bruno, who oversees the front of house, did most of the talking. “In the past, our products and our recipes were denigrated

because they were so simple and mostly made with preserved ingredients,” Bruno said. “Summer was short, and the rest of the year, fresh ingredients couldn’t reach here. But that, we realized, could be its own magic.” One of the starters, crunchy cockscomb (a tribute to the treat that, as kids, Bruno and Iris would fight over), was served with a kimchi of vegetables that grew outside the door. The boiled green beans and potatoes that once supplied two meals—the vegetables for lunch; the water they were cooked in for a dinner broth—were transformed into a deeply flavorful soup, with beans julienned so thin they acted as noodles. Seafood made its singular appearance as bacalao, the cod that was salted and dried into hardened planks to be hauled over the mountains once a year as a Christmas treat. With its 2024 Michelin star drawing guests outside the summer and winter high seasons, Ansils is also having an effect on the greater community. The restaurant buys vegetables from its neighbors’ small gardens, and when Iris told her friend Alvarito that she was hoping to serve one dish in wooden bowls, he bought a lathe and—though he had never worked with wood before—started making them himself. The week we arrived, the siblings scheduled a visit for their staff to meet Zacarías, a 25-year-old shepherd who not only provides the restaurant’s lamb but has started a school teaching the traditional herding methods. After lunch, Iris joined us in the garden. I asked what made her proudest, and she pointed to the inspiration that Ansils might offer to other young chefs. “We’ve shown it’s possible to be in a small place,” she said. “To do what you love, to be valued as much as if it were in the city.” 107

Huerta del Marquesado, Castile-La Mancha DAV I D A N D I H A D O N E last stop to make. The next day,

after a morning spent driving through the austere mesa of eastern Spain, we paused for lunch in the village of Huerta del Marquesado (population 173). Alejandro Paz and Olga García, who previously worked in Michelin-starred establishments in Valencia, had in 2020 created their restaurant Fuentelgato in the bar once owned by Olga’s parents—the only way the couple could afford to open their own place. With a small dining room of mismatched tables and cookbook-lined shelves, Fuentelgato felt almost like eating in someone’s home, albeit someone who knows how to turn earthy nettles into a delicately flaky empanada, drape fat-grilled oysters in lardo, and dress a perfectly poached egg in a sabayon made richer still with a dollop of caviar. It was a delicious, accomplished meal. Due to a dearth of nearby producers, the two chefs instead emphasize seasonality, and change their menu every few weeks. As a result, there are no fixed courses, just two tasting menus that center instinct, flexibility, and time. “In other places where there are producers around, a restaurant like ours could nourish them,” Paz says. “We don’t have that here, but [thanks to the restaurant] we’ve gone from being a town that gets 200 or 300 visitors a year to one that gets 3,000. And those people go out to buy bread, they stay in casas rurales (country cottages), and in the end they have an impact on the businesses that already existed here.” Fuentelgato was much simpler than the other four restaurants we visited. But between the quality of the cooking and the accolades it was receiving from the Spanish press, it was easy to imagine that with it, Paz and García were planting the seeds from which a gastronomic culture might grow. As we drove away from Huerta del Marquesado, I still wasn’t sure that the restaurants were going to be able to turn the tide for la España vaciada. But each was proving that thrilling creativity could come from limits; each was using cooking to make an argument about memory, resilience, and belonging. And in an age in which globalization threatens to flatten our differences, each was not just preserving but actively celebrating that rarest of things: a distinct identity. Contributing writer Lisa Abend traveled to Sicily and wrote about €1 homes for Afar’s Spring 2024 issue. Photographer Benjamin McMahon is based in London. 108

Alejandro Paz and Olga García (pictured, below) opened the restaurant Fuentelgato in 2023. It is adjacent to Serranía de Cuenca Natural Park, known for its “Enchanted City” of naturally sculpted limestone formations, which resemble animals and human faces.

how to take this trip There’s nothing quite like driving through the northern half of Spain to remind you of the power of regional identity. Embark on a clockwise circle of a road trip that begins and ends in Madrid, and each autonomous community will feel like arriving in a new country: Not only does the cuisine change dramatically, but so does the landscape, architecture, and sometimes even the language. —LA

EXTR EM A DU R A

A three-hour drive west from the Madrid airport, Extremadura is known for its cherry orchards and ancient Roman towns. Visit Zarza de Granadilla to dine at Versátil (tasting menu from $90) and then drive six miles to the ghost town of Granadilla for its medieval castle. Fifteen miles east, Hervás cradles a group of half-timbered homes that once comprised its Jewish quarter and is capped by a 13th-century church built atop the ruins of a fortress. A hotel dating to the 19th century, El Jardín del Convento (doubles from $82) is a bit younger but still full of character, thanks to wooden beams and a wisteria-covered terrace. ASTURIAS

Head three-and-a-half hours north along the A-66 highway and pass the stately university city of Salamanca before entering the mountains of Asturias and arriving at Monte (tasting menu from $113). There is a delightful casa rural in the town of San Feliz, but Hotel Narbasu (doubles from $173), just under an hour’s drive east, offers more luxury with rural-chic interiors and spectacular views of the Picos de Europa mountain range. From here, it’s a short drive to the mountain town of Cangas de Onís, and from there, around 12 minutes up to the village of Covadonga, whose church commemorates the start of medieval Christian Spain’s reconquest of Muslim territory. Covadonga also acts as entryway to the alpine Picos de Europa National Park. C A N TA B R I A A N D T H E B A S Q U E C O U N T RY

The A-8 highway from Asturias skirts the edge of the Cantabrian Sea for about three hours (break it up with a stop at Museo de Altamira, which offers a full-scale replica of the nearby Altamira paleolithic cave paintings) before intersecting with the road that heads inland to the rural town of Kanpezu. At Arrea! you can choose from the bountiful tasting

menu in the dining room for $187, or a more casual menu just off the bar for $69. Twenty-five miles west, the centuries-old Palacio de Samaniego (doubles from $230) has nine exquisitely curated rooms and a Basque fine-dining restaurant of its own. N AVA R R E A N D A R AG O N

About an hour east of Kanpezu in the Navarre region, Pamplona makes a lively stop even outside of the San Fermín Festival and its running of the bulls. Hemingway fans will want to visit Café Iruña (where Hemingway had coffee each morning) and the Gran Hotel La Perla (where he stayed). From Pamplona, it’s another three-and-a-half hours to Anciles, in the Aragonese Pyrenees. The town itself is picturesque, but will take all of about eight minutes to walk through; lunch at the restaurant Ansils (tasting menu from $100) is a much more leisurely affair. In nearby Benasque, distinctive Pyrenees stone houses share the streets with outdoor-gear shops and bustling cafés filled with recovering hikers and cyclists. For a quiet drink— to say nothing of more eccentric decor—check out Rabason bar. At the Hotel Selba d’Ansils (doubles from $122), just up the road from Anciles, the elegantly-furnished rooms, several with Jacuzzis, overlook a verdant lawn and the peaks beyond it. CASTI LE–L A M A NCH A

Break up the five-and-a-half hour drive south to the province of Cuenca with a stop at the baroque cathedral of Zaragoza, whose impressively ornate dome contains a fresco by Goya, before lunch at Fuentelgato (tasting menu from $105) in Huerta del Marquesado. About an hour west on the way back to Madrid, Cuenca is a beautifully preserved medieval city renowned for its contemporary art museums and houses that dangle perilously over the surrounding gorges. The Posada de San José, creaky but charming (doubles from $117), is one of the oldest inns in Spain.

E SH F AP I T

WITH ITS WILD HORSES AND WINDSWEPT DUNES, SA B L E I S L A N D N AT I O N A L PA R K R E SE RV E I S ON E OF CA NADA’ S M O ST D I ST I N C T I V E P ROT E C T E D LA N D S CA P E S . GET T I NG T H ERE IS AN ADVENTURE ALL ITS OWN.

by JENNIFER HOPE CHOI Photographs by B R E N DA N G E O R G E KO

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One clear fall morning in Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, I board a helicopter and fly 180 miles east across the Atlantic. An hour later, a sandbar appears, grinning from the blue expanse. As the helicopter descends, hints of the abundance below come into focus: dunes blanketed in swaying marram grass; sun-warmed scads of gray seals hemming the shoreline; and, meandering among the freshwater ponds, horses with dramatic manes who’ve become a symbol for their domain. This is Sable Island— an ecological marvel and one of Canada’s most idiosyncratic national park lands. I am not a horse girl. Guiltily, I’m more excited to see the seals, who look downright goofy on land, lacking the grace of their equine neighbors. But what intrigues me most is the romanticism of isolation, of these creatures and this place. Sable—which belongs to the ancestral and unceded territory of the Mi’kmaq Nation—is 26 miles long and less than a mile wide, set on the edge of the Atlantic’s continental shelf. Due to currents, winds, storms, and its namesake geological makeup (sable is French for “sand”), the landform exists in constant flux. Much of Sable’s early history is fraught with shipwrecks and failed settlement attempts, but by the late 19th century, interests shifted toward the island’s natural bounties and geographic

uniqueness. In 2013, the Canadian government enshrined Sable Island as a national park reserve; today, Parks Canada oversees conservation, biodiversity engagement, and restricted, but encouraged, public visitation. Spirited day excursions offer a glimpse of these efforts. Photographer Brendan George Ko and I, accompanied by park manager Mathieu D’Astous, are among the fortunate few, alongside researchers and staff, permitted to stay overnight. Together, we hope to better understand the allure that draws curious travelers to Sable’s

shores every year, and to learn from the people who help protect the island itself. ••• After disembarking, we unload our gear at Main Station. Soon, we’re in a Jeep, zipping toward South Beach, when we encounter our first band of horses—a deep brown trio, backdropped by the Atlantic. “Little pony there, eh?” D’Astous says with a smile, noting how unbothered the horses are by humans.

As the helicopter descends, hints of the abundance below come into focus.

1. Pages 110–111: Waters near Sable Island were so dangerous for ships in the 18th century that the area became known as the Graveyard of the Atlantic. Today, little remains of Sable’s 350 recorded shipwrecks. Improvements in technology in the 20th century meant fewer incidents, with the last known wreck documented in 1999. The Skidby, which sank in 1905, is one of the only lingering signs of this past. Its hull can be seen from above on a clear day.

3. There are no trees on Sable, but lush vegetation grows, from goldenrod and juniper to sandwort, yarrow, beach pea, and sea rocket. The island’s buildings are primarily concentrated at Main Station.

2. The Sable Island horse—of which there are around 400—is known for its stocky stature and, come winter, a thick shaggy coat. In 2008, the animal was named one of the official symbols of the Canadian province of Nova Scotia. 113

As of 1961, under Canadian law, it is illegal to touch, treat, or feed the animals. Living here feral for centuries, “they’re pretty accustomed to this environment,” he says. By that, D’Astous means the tempestuous conditions that have kept the terrain otherwise uninhabitable. No one really knows how the horses got to Sable. They’re likely of Acadian origin, introduced with other livestock by a merchant in the 1700s. Only the horses remain. Since the 1800s, they’ve subsisted independently on Sable’s vegetation. The following five days on the island drift from one marbled sunset to the next. We traverse lush heaths, fragrant with peppery bayberry; a ridgeline unveils an arced panorama of the island’s west and east tips. One morning we search for Fabio, a swarthy chestnut stallion with flowing flaxen locks, but instead spy a glossy ibis pit-stopping at the gulf ponds.

Throughout our stay, D’Astous furnishes us with facts, including that Sable is home to the largest gray seal breeding colony on the planet, sprinkling his commentary with witty cheer. (While pummeled by a windblast: “Good day for an exfoliation!”) Over four years and 19 visits, his enthusiasm has not eroded. Perhaps it’s the “oceanic vastness” or the “quiet enormity” that he occasionally mentions. The person who knows the sandbar best, though, is Zoe Lucas. Cofounder and president of the Sable Island Institute, Lucas initially ventured here more than 50 years ago, as a student fascinated by the horses. “Right from the get-go, I felt connected,” she tells us in her lab one afternoon. Lucas has dedicated most of her adult life to Sable, collecting diminishing lichen floras, seabirds for avian flu studies, and data for the institute’s current project: a survey of plastics that wash ashore. Her lab

4. Zoe Lucas is president of the Sable Island Institute, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving and sharing the reserve’s biodiversity. In her decades on the island, she has spoken with innumerable visitors, including the late oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. Lucas is planning to establish a residency for Canadian artists. 114

5. As the site of the largest gray seal breeding colony in the world, Sable Island counts roughly 85 percent of the total gray seal pups born in Canada. Visitors traveling to the island are encouraged to look for the animals on their 75-minute flight from Halifax.

is filled with collected debris, including Crocs sandals, balloon remnants, and bottles of dish soap and ketchup. The institute’s published findings support environmental legislation worldwide. Lucas also hopes her work will help individuals grasp the scale of ocean plastics. Visitation, which does not conflict with the island’s longevity, is part of this education. It’s impossible to explore such a wild place without confronting humankind’s effect on it and how that fits into a bigger picture. As we lift off on the last day, Sable shrinking below, I think about simpler revelations: caterpillars inching their crenellations across a dune’s smooth slip face; a mare chomping on blades of marram while nursing a foal, beside another horse’s sun-scorched remains. The only constant is the island, marked by its own sense of time.

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6. Researchers visit Sable Island to study its rich biodversity. It is a refuge for several bird colonies and endangered or rare species, including the Ipswich sparrow, the roseate tern, and the Sable Island sweat bee, which is the size of an ant. 7. All island tours are on foot, with topography alternating between sand and scrub. For travelers with reduced mobility, Parks Canada staff will provide recommendations for self-guided activities near Main Station. 8. The island comes to life with flowers and tall grasses in April, May, June, and July. Visitors are encouraged to snap photographs of plant and animal species to share with researchers. 9. At 180 miles offshore, Sable is the most remote island on Canada’s east coast. There is no cellular service on the island, but there is high-speed Wi-Fi—and a tiny gift shop—at Main Station. 10. Sable Island has no airport. Instead, winged aircraft land on the packed sand of the beach. There are two helipads for helicopter arrival. Transportation is heavily 8

weather-dependent and is limited to ensure visitor safety and the protection of the island’s natural and cultural resources. 11. Parks Canada maintains a small yearround presence on Sable to manage access by air and sea, coordinate supply needs, and maintain base operations for island staff, researchers, and visitors.

SABLE ISLAND

HOW TO

VISIT

When to Go

Most of Sable’s roughly 450 annual visitors arrive for day trips from June through October, though winter months offer snow-dappled dunes and an otherworldly quietude, along with more than 300,000 beached seals and pups. Logistics

Everyone must obtain permission to enter the reserve, which is typically arranged through Parks Canada– licensed operators such as Halifaxbased Picture Perfect Tours, Kattuk Expeditions, Sable Aviation, Vision Air Services, and Sable Ocean Adventures. To coordinate arrival via private vessel, visitors must complete a request form, which is subject to Parks Canada approval. Excursion fees, along with government funding, help support continued conservation efforts and research. parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ns/sable/visit Getting There

Travelers depart from Halifax, 75 minutes away by air or 24 to 30 hours by sea. Due to changing weather conditions, it is best to account for wiggle room before and after a scheduled embarkation and return. It’s not uncommon for flights to be delayed by one or more days. Where to Stay

Overnight stays on Sable are not allowed, but Halifax’s 109-room Muir, a Luxury Collection Hotel, offers day trips to the island guided by Kattuk Expeditions. The waterfront Muir hotel has mid-century modern–inspired furniture and custom tartan blankets that nod to the province’s Scottish history. What to Expect

Guests to Sable Island are required to partake in an orientation and predeparture biohazard checks. Once ashore, they will be greeted by Parks Canada staff and guided along tours of Main Station and walks to scenic stops. There are no ticks, black flies, or mosquitoes on Sable. There is, however, a lot of sand and no trees for shade—so dress accordingly.

Jennifer Hope Choi is the author of The Wanderer’s Curse (W.W. Norton & Company, 2025). Brendan George Ko photographed Hawai‘i for Afar’s September/October 2021 issue.

12. Marram grass coats one-third of the island and provides the bulk of the horses’ diet. 119

A DESER

DREAM

ty in stillness—and connection in a place where time seems to blur.

In Egypt’s remote Siwa Oasis, photographer Nathalie Mohadjer fnds beau

by Anthon Jackson

121

WHEN

SHE

FIRST

This page, from top: Siwan tea is usually brewed over a fire; a Bedouin guide takes a break during a tour northwest of town. Opposite page: At Shali Bazaar, visitors can buy everything from olives to rugs. Pages 120–121: Siwa is part of the Sahara’s Great Sand Sea, which stretches into Libya; a Siwan man prunes the old fronds of a palm tree.

visited Siwa, an oasis more than 450 miles from Cairo in Egypt’s Western Desert, Nathalie Mohadjer was struck by its isolation. A strip of spring-fed palm groves, Siwa made her feel “disconnected from the rest of the world, in the middle of a sand ocean.” Mohadjer, a German-Iranian photographer based in Paris, is drawn to peripheries and places hidden away from much of the faster-paced planet. She has spent time in Burundi’s outlying plains and in refugee camps concealed in Bosnia’s forests. When a friend suggested that Mohadjer join him on a trip to Siwa in 2023, she jumped at the opportunity. “I like getting close to people,” Mohadjer says, “digging into how they live.” As she wandered the crumbling maze of Siwa’s medieval fort one afternoon, a young woman called out from her window with a wave, inviting the photographer inside. Moments later, Mohadjer joined Fatma and her mother, nephew, and niece for tea in their home; she quickly transformed from tourist to guest to friend, getting a glimpse into daily life in the desert town. For its small size and far-flung location, Siwa carries remarkable historical heft, famed in the days of the pharaohs for its sanctuary of the Oracle of Amun—divining the will of the gods for perhaps a thousand years, beginning in the 6th century B.C.E. Before marching eastward to conquer the known world, Alexander the Great struck out on a westward journey to the oasis in 332 B.C.E. , following in the footsteps of the mythical Greek demigods Perseus and Heracles, in hopes of confirming his own divine lineage. 123

Clockwise from left: Oranges grow in small groves around the oasis and are sold at the Friday market; young girls from Siwa welcome an arriving busload of Egyptian high school students; at Gebel al-Mawta (Mountain of the Dead), visitors can see painted tombs dating to the 26th dynasty of Egypt (from 664–525 B.C.E.); the area has numerous salt lakes, where people float and relax.

Left: Many homes in Siwa have their own spring-fed pools.

Siwa remained a place of pilgrimage during Roman times but grew more secluded in subsequent centuries, becoming a refuge of Siwi-speaking Amazigh (Berber) people. It wasn’t until the early 19th century that Siwa was annexed by Egypt. Today, it has around 30,000 inhabitants, mostly Amazigh, but also populations of Bedouins and Egyptians. Mohadjer was captivated by the remains of the oasis’s rich history: a Greco-Roman necropolis here, some painted hieroglyphs there, their colors having weathered millennia. The clayplastered minaret of Siwa’s oldest mosque, built in 1203, towers amid the spectacular ruins of the Shali Fortress, near where Mohadjer first met Fatma. Elsewhere, travelers can admire the scant but striking remains of the Temple of Umm Ubayda and climb the nearby hill to explore the site that once housed the eminent oracle. A sense of the distant past also permeates many of Siwa’s natural wonders, from the endless bluffs of the desert, glinting with fossils from the primal Tethys Sea, to the salt lakes and spring-fed pools framed by date palms and reached via lanes where donkey carts rumble by. The most famous spring is named for another visitor of legend, Cleopatra. Today it’s typically lively, ringed with cafés. A recent increase in tourism has, in a way, made the oasis a pilgrimage destination again. For Mohadjer, as for many weekend arrivals from Alexandria and Cairo, Siwa’s very remoteness renders it a refuge from the clamor of daily life, a place of rare calm. “Even time—of course, it doesn’t stand still,” Mohadjer says. “But it kind of does there.”

From center: Women in Siwa craft baskets from palm fronds and other local materials; wholesalers come to sell goods at Shali Bazaar every Friday.

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H OW TO V I S IT S I WA

Malaka Hilton, founder and CEO of Admiral Travel International, a Virtuoso agency, can arrange a 45-minute charter flight from Cairo. (Otherwise, it’s a 10-hour drive or bus ride.) Siwa, she says, “remains a very offthe-beaten-path experience, appealing primarily to those who have already explored the highlights of Egypt and want something deeply authentic and remote.” Hilton can organize guided tours of the Oracle of Amun temple, 4x4 excursions for sandboarding and salt-lake swims, and opportunities to meet with locals. admiraltravel.com WHEN TO GO

With summer temperatures routinely above 104 degrees, the most pleasant time to visit is from October to April. Temperatures remain warm in December and January, but a jacket is needed for chilly nights. Increasingly, though, people are traveling to Siwa in summer to experience sand bathing, the ancient therapeutic ritual of being buried to the neck in hot sand. W H E R E T O S TAY

Set on a peninsula in Siwa Lake, Adrère Amellal is the area’s most exclusive lodge, lit only by candles and beautifully reflecting the austerity of its desert surroundings. It was conceived and designed by Dr. Mounir Neamatalla with support from the architect India Mahdavi and once graced by King Charles III and Queen Camilla. “It’s the only hotel I book,” Hilton says.

Anthon Jackson is a writer and photographer based in Aarhus, Denmark. He has authored or contributed to more than 30 travel books, including Lonely Planet Egypt (2024).

Clockwise from left: A visitor rests outside a cluster of Romanera tombs near Siwa’s westernmost edge, where, Mohadjer recalls, there are human bones halfburied in the sand; rugs and cushions feature heavily in Siwan homes; abu mardam is a traditional Siwan dish of meat, rice and vegetables slowbaked for hours under the sand.

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Just Back From Singapore

A Singapore Celebration I M O V E D T O L O S A N G E L E S from Singapore in 2024, and whenever

someone asks me what I miss most about the Lion City, my answer is always the same: food and family. A recent trip back allowed me to revel in both. The timing couldn’t have been better: Singapore marked its 60th year of independence on August 9, 2025, and when I arrived later that month, the city was still filled with decorations. I was there to celebrate my cousin’s wedding, my parents’ birthdays, and my wedding anniversary. How did we commemorate these events? By eating, of course. We kicked off the weekend with my parents’ birthday dinner at the Japanese restaurant Kazu Sumiyaki, our go-to spot for special occassions for more than 15 years. Six of us feasted on grilled chicken skin, ankimo (monkfish liver), wagyu steak, and warabi mochi. The next morning we headed to the Church of Saints Peter & Paul, a 19th-century Gothic beauty, for my cousin’s wedding. The bride and groom’s declaration of love even came with a side of sugar: elegantly wrapped kueh, colorful bite-size rice cakes. The nuptials were followed by a traditional tea ceremony and a four-course dinner at Botanico at the 128

Summerhouse. Then, as is customary for any good Singaporean party, the tables were moved to make room for dancing—and more food. With so many family members in town for the wedding, it was the first time in 16 years that my father and his siblings had gathered in one place, so the next day, my parents hosted a reunion at their home. My family is Peranakan—people of mixed heritage, in our case Chinese and Malay—and we dug into classic dishes of our culture such as kueh pie tee (a pastry shell filled with vegetables) and chap chye, a braised vegetable stew that my late great-aunt always made for Lunar New Year events. After a weekend of nonstop festivities, my husband and I checked into the Mandai Rainforest Resort by Banyan Tree to quietly mark our second wedding anniversary. In our room, we were surprised to discover a chocolate cake from the hotel congratulating us on our milestone. I didn’t know if we’d finish it, but we gradually ate the cake, bite by bite, in between visits to the nearby Night Safari and Singapore Zoo, where we watched proboscis monkeys clamor for fresh leaves put out by the zookeepers. When it was time to finally fly back to L.A., only crumbs remained—a sweet finish to a delicious trip. A r t by M E L H A A S C H

ELIZ AB ETH S EE; FR AN CI S S EE

by Elizabeth See, Afar Associate Art Director

SEE CINCY IN A NEW LIGHT

In Cincy, art isn’t conﬁned to a museum. It’s in every mural, meal, melody and moment. Join us in 2026 for BLINK and beyond to meet a region illuminated by imagination. visitcincy.com