GLOBAL COMFORT | Main Course |
A look at three dishes from around the world gaining traction on U.S. menus // By Mike Kostyo How to Work With It
While the name may be new to many U.S. consumers, the flavor profiles are familiar — avgolemono soup is basically a creamy chicken noodle soup with a citrus twist. There’s no single, agreedupon recipe for the soup in Greece, giving chefs carte blanche to play with the build. Rice or orzo are classic additions, but chefs can experiment with ratios (some versions feature a hint of lemon, while others are almost mouth-puckeringly tart), swap in different proteins (chicken meatballs, seafood) or add whatever veggies are on hand. Flavor-enhancers like garlic and dill are also common.
AVGOLEMONO SOUP What is It?
Avgolemono might be considered the one true mother sauce of Greece, combining eggs, lemon and stock to create a concoction that is rich and creamy, yet balanced by the tart citrus. Originally introduced by Sephardic Jews, with a name derived from the Greek words avgo and lemoni (or egg and lemon), today avgolemono is used as a sauce for meats and vegetables or as a thickener for soups and stews. It’s often served with dolmades. Indeed, the name avgolemono has become synonymous with Greek lemon chicken soup in the U.S., found everywhere from classic Greek diners to a new generation of Greek restaurants that are taking the cuisine in new directions. At both locations of Chef Jose Andres’ modern Eastern Mediterranean concept Zaytinya, chicken soup avgolemono is a staple on the menu, upgraded with housemade kritharaki pasta and extra veggies in the form of carrots, onions, celery and greens with the option to add a soft-poached egg on top.
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NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024
MALFATTI What is It?
A dish that translates to “poorly made” may not sound like a promising start to a tasty entree option, but it’s simply code for “rustic” and “homemade” when it comes to these Italian dumplings. Malfatti can be found throughout Italy’s Lombardy and Tuscany regions, combining greens like spinach or Swiss chard with
