ART & CULTURE
PUBLIC ART SOLO
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museums————————————————————————————————— 32
Museums for
ANCIENT ART
Museums for
CONTEMPORARY ART
ONE PAINTING
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MUSÉE DES BEAUX-ARTS DE MARSEILLE
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ART FESTIVALS
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MUSIC FESTIVALS
STREET ART
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ART & CULTURE
PUBLIC ART SOLO
you should not miss ——————————————————— 29
museums————————————————————————————————— 32
Museums for
ANCIENT ART
Museums for
CONTEMPORARY ART
ONE PAINTING
58
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63
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MODERN ART
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OUT OF THE ORDINARY
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MUSÉE DES BEAUX-ARTS DE MARSEILLE
26
45
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Museums for
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places—————————————————————————— 52
MUSIC FESTIVALS
STREET ART
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27
PUBLIC ART you should not miss
1
SKY MIRROR By Anish Kapoor
IN FRONT OF: Monte Carlo Casino Place du Casino 98000 Monaco
2
In front of the casino in Monte Carlo stands a striking work of art: a hollow mirror in polished stainless steel of 2,5 meters in diameter, a typical work by the British-Indian artist Anish Kapoor from 1999. On the one hand, it is a simple sculpture that contrasts strongly with the belle epoque architecture of the casino, on the other hand, Sky Mirror turns the world upside down and creates the illusion of bringing heaven to earth. Could it be that Kapoor wanted to add a playful yet critical element to the chic elegance of Monaco and the casino?
PABLO
On a terrace with a panoramic view of the surroundings of
By Gabriël Sterk Place des Patriotes 06250 Mougins Alpes-Maritimes
hill top town Mougins, stands a monumental bronze head of Pablo Picasso: a sculpture from 2008 by the Dutch artist Gabriël Sterk. You can’t miss it: it is 2,4 meters high and weighs 500 kilograms. Sterk also made the statues of Paul Cézanne (at La Rotonde in Aix-en-Provence) and of Vincent van Gogh (at the psychiatric institution of Saint-Paul-deMausole). It is a tribute to Pablo Picasso, who lived and worked in Mougins from 1961 to 1973, the year of his death. The famous artist had his studio for a while in the building that now houses the tourism office and lived with his wife Jacqueline Roque in the Mas de Notre Dame de Vie, near the chapel of the same name.
1 SKY MIRROR
29
PUBLIC ART you should not miss
1
SKY MIRROR By Anish Kapoor
IN FRONT OF: Monte Carlo Casino Place du Casino 98000 Monaco
2
In front of the casino in Monte Carlo stands a striking work of art: a hollow mirror in polished stainless steel of 2,5 meters in diameter, a typical work by the British-Indian artist Anish Kapoor from 1999. On the one hand, it is a simple sculpture that contrasts strongly with the belle epoque architecture of the casino, on the other hand, Sky Mirror turns the world upside down and creates the illusion of bringing heaven to earth. Could it be that Kapoor wanted to add a playful yet critical element to the chic elegance of Monaco and the casino?
PABLO
On a terrace with a panoramic view of the surroundings of
By Gabriël Sterk Place des Patriotes 06250 Mougins Alpes-Maritimes
hill top town Mougins, stands a monumental bronze head of Pablo Picasso: a sculpture from 2008 by the Dutch artist Gabriël Sterk. You can’t miss it: it is 2,4 meters high and weighs 500 kilograms. Sterk also made the statues of Paul Cézanne (at La Rotonde in Aix-en-Provence) and of Vincent van Gogh (at the psychiatric institution of Saint-Paul-deMausole). It is a tribute to Pablo Picasso, who lived and worked in Mougins from 1961 to 1973, the year of his death. The famous artist had his studio for a while in the building that now houses the tourism office and lived with his wife Jacqueline Roque in the Mas de Notre Dame de Vie, near the chapel of the same name.
1 SKY MIRROR
29
MODERNIST buildings
71
CITÉ RADIEUSE LE CORBUSIER 280 boulevard Michelet 13008 Marseille Bouches-du-Rhône +33 (0)4 91 77 80 74 citeradieusemarseille.com
72
VILLA NOAILLES BMontée Noailles 83400 Hyères Var +33 (0)4 98 08 01 98 villanoailles-hyeres.com
Between 1946 and 1952, the Franco-Swiss architect Le Corbusier (pseudonym of Charles-Édouard Jeanneret) built this revolutionary, imposing and colorful apartment building. It is 137 metres long, 56 metres high and contains 337 apartments of 23 different types, suitable for households of one to ten people. Most apartments have two levels and are oriented on both sides, so they get light and air from the city side and the sea side. Shortly after the Second World War, France had an acute shortage of housing: for Le Corbusier an excellent opportunity to put his theories about new living and the vertical city into practice. The concrete building stands on high legs to allow a free underpass and on the third floor there are shops: a bakery, restaurant Le Ventre
This monumental, sleek, modernist villa is located on the flank of a hill above Hyères near the ruins of the old castle. The villa was built between 1923 and 1925 to a design by architect Robert Mallet-Stevens. It is one of the earliest examples of the modern style in France. The client, Vicomte Charles de Noailles, wanted an extremely functional home with a minimum of decorative elements and a maximum of daylight. Yet the impression of a labyrinthine whole with many small rooms dominates. Influential designers contributed to the Villa, such as Marcel Breuer, Theo van Doesburg, Eileen Gray and Charlotte Perriand. Since 2003, the Villa Noailles has profiled itself as the leading exhibition space for architecture, fashion, design and photography. Parking near the villa is not easy, the access roads are steep and narrow.
de l’Architecte, Hôtel Le Corbusier and Imbernon bookstore and publishing house with an exquisite choice of architecture books. On the spacious roof terrace – an architectural gem with panoramic views over Marseille and the sea – is a plunge pool, a solarium, an open-air theater and even a school, which has been an artist’s residence for several years. Part of the building can be visited freely, whereby you must respect the privacy of the residents. Request guided tours and visits to a model apartment via Office de Tourisme Marseille: www.marseille-tourisme.com.
82
71 CITÉ RADIEUSE LE CORBUSIER
83
MODERNIST buildings
71
CITÉ RADIEUSE LE CORBUSIER 280 boulevard Michelet 13008 Marseille Bouches-du-Rhône +33 (0)4 91 77 80 74 citeradieusemarseille.com
72
VILLA NOAILLES BMontée Noailles 83400 Hyères Var +33 (0)4 98 08 01 98 villanoailles-hyeres.com
Between 1946 and 1952, the Franco-Swiss architect Le Corbusier (pseudonym of Charles-Édouard Jeanneret) built this revolutionary, imposing and colorful apartment building. It is 137 metres long, 56 metres high and contains 337 apartments of 23 different types, suitable for households of one to ten people. Most apartments have two levels and are oriented on both sides, so they get light and air from the city side and the sea side. Shortly after the Second World War, France had an acute shortage of housing: for Le Corbusier an excellent opportunity to put his theories about new living and the vertical city into practice. The concrete building stands on high legs to allow a free underpass and on the third floor there are shops: a bakery, restaurant Le Ventre
This monumental, sleek, modernist villa is located on the flank of a hill above Hyères near the ruins of the old castle. The villa was built between 1923 and 1925 to a design by architect Robert Mallet-Stevens. It is one of the earliest examples of the modern style in France. The client, Vicomte Charles de Noailles, wanted an extremely functional home with a minimum of decorative elements and a maximum of daylight. Yet the impression of a labyrinthine whole with many small rooms dominates. Influential designers contributed to the Villa, such as Marcel Breuer, Theo van Doesburg, Eileen Gray and Charlotte Perriand. Since 2003, the Villa Noailles has profiled itself as the leading exhibition space for architecture, fashion, design and photography. Parking near the villa is not easy, the access roads are steep and narrow.
de l’Architecte, Hôtel Le Corbusier and Imbernon bookstore and publishing house with an exquisite choice of architecture books. On the spacious roof terrace – an architectural gem with panoramic views over Marseille and the sea – is a plunge pool, a solarium, an open-air theater and even a school, which has been an artist’s residence for several years. Part of the building can be visited freely, whereby you must respect the privacy of the residents. Request guided tours and visits to a model apartment via Office de Tourisme Marseille: www.marseille-tourisme.com.
82
71 CITÉ RADIEUSE LE CORBUSIER
83
85 GARE AVIGNON TGV
84
85
85 GARE AVIGNON TGV
84
85
SCULPTURE parks
160 FONDATION MAEGHT 623 chemin des Gardettes 06570 Saint-Paulde-Vence Alpes-Maritimes +33 (0)4 93 32 81 63 fondation-maeght.com
A resounding name and a museum as a total work of art. Parisian gallery owners Marguerite and Aimé Maeght had already made their mark when they decided to set up their own museum in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, which opened its doors in 1964. Catalan architect Josep Lluís Sert designed an iconic building and worked closely together with some artists to integrate work: Georges Braque provided a water basin with a fish mosaic, Juan Miró designed a labyrinth of ‘organic’ artworks and a courtyard was reserved for the elongated, life-size figures of Alberto Giacometti. The large lawn in front of the museum building features works by some of the great names in modern sculpture: a playful fountain by Pol Bury, a monumental work by Alexander Calder and a wind sculpture by Takis, alongside work by Jean Arp, Barbara Hepworth and Eduardo Chillida. And then there is the museum building itself where part of the enormous collection of 13,000 pieces is displayed, with highlights such as Pierre Bonnard, Marc Chagall, Joan Mitchell and Ellsworth Kelly. There are also always temporary exhibitions. Do not forget to see the Chapelle Saint-Bernard with stained glass windows by Georges Braque and Raoul Ubac.
132
160 FONDATION MAEGHT
133
SCULPTURE parks
160 FONDATION MAEGHT 623 chemin des Gardettes 06570 Saint-Paulde-Vence Alpes-Maritimes +33 (0)4 93 32 81 63 fondation-maeght.com
A resounding name and a museum as a total work of art. Parisian gallery owners Marguerite and Aimé Maeght had already made their mark when they decided to set up their own museum in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, which opened its doors in 1964. Catalan architect Josep Lluís Sert designed an iconic building and worked closely together with some artists to integrate work: Georges Braque provided a water basin with a fish mosaic, Juan Miró designed a labyrinth of ‘organic’ artworks and a courtyard was reserved for the elongated, life-size figures of Alberto Giacometti. The large lawn in front of the museum building features works by some of the great names in modern sculpture: a playful fountain by Pol Bury, a monumental work by Alexander Calder and a wind sculpture by Takis, alongside work by Jean Arp, Barbara Hepworth and Eduardo Chillida. And then there is the museum building itself where part of the enormous collection of 13,000 pieces is displayed, with highlights such as Pierre Bonnard, Marc Chagall, Joan Mitchell and Ellsworth Kelly. There are also always temporary exhibitions. Do not forget to see the Chapelle Saint-Bernard with stained glass windows by Georges Braque and Raoul Ubac.
132
160 FONDATION MAEGHT
133
The French CHANSON
188 THÉÂTRE DE
L’ALCAZAR
58 cours Belsunce 13001 Marseille Bouches-du-Rhône +33 (0)4 91 55 90 00 madeinmarseille.net
L’Alcazar was a mythical concert hall in Marseille. Unfortunately, all that remains is the remarkable wrought iron-domed entrance on the Cours Belsunce in the city center. The hall itself was converted into a library in 2004. L’Alcazar was originally a café-concert and music hall built in oriental style, then a cinema and then a theater and concert hall again. Big names from the French music world made their debut there, such as Yves Montand, Dalida, Maurice Chevalier and Fernandel. Charles Aznavour, Henri Salvador and Jacques Brel also performed there. The Marseille audience had a reputation for being demanding and hard-hitting: young Serge Gainsbourg was booed there in 1959.
189 LA MIETTE – JACQUES PRÉVERT
166
189 LA MIETTE –
JACQUES PRÉVERT 7 rue de l’Allée 06570 Saint-Paulde-Vence Alpes-Maritimes saint-pauldevence.com
A small house with a great history. During the Second World War, the French writer, poet and filmmaker Jacques Prévert settled in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, which was in unoccupied territory. Prévert continued to make films at the Studios de la Victorine in nearby Nice. In Saint-Paul he met Pablo Picasso and also became friends with Paul Roux, owner of the auberge Colombe d’Or, for whom Prévert made collages intended for the walls of the now famous hotel-restaurant. From 1945, Jacques Prévert and his wife Jeanine rented a narrow corner house in the village: they called the house La Miette, literally the crumb or chunk. According to tradition, Prévert wrote his world-famous love song Les feuilles mortes there. The melancholic song was set to music by Joseph Kosma and used in the film Les Portes de la Nuit (1946), for which Prévert wrote the screenplay. Unfortunately that movie flopped and the song was forgotten. It was only when Yves Montand recorded Les feuilles mortes in 1949 as a 78rpm record that it suddenly caught on. The song became an international success. Translated as Autumn Leaves, it has been performed by Frank Sinatra and Nat King Cole, among others, and more recently by Iggy Pop, Grace Jones and Eric Clapton. Autumn Leaves also found its way into performances by Miles Davis, Oscar Peterson and Diana Krall as an instrumental jazz track. With more than six hundred different versions, Les feuilles mortes is the most famous French love song. La Miette is included in a Prévert trail through Saint-Paul and can be rented as a holiday home.
167
The French CHANSON
188 THÉÂTRE DE
L’ALCAZAR
58 cours Belsunce 13001 Marseille Bouches-du-Rhône +33 (0)4 91 55 90 00 madeinmarseille.net
L’Alcazar was a mythical concert hall in Marseille. Unfortunately, all that remains is the remarkable wrought iron-domed entrance on the Cours Belsunce in the city center. The hall itself was converted into a library in 2004. L’Alcazar was originally a café-concert and music hall built in oriental style, then a cinema and then a theater and concert hall again. Big names from the French music world made their debut there, such as Yves Montand, Dalida, Maurice Chevalier and Fernandel. Charles Aznavour, Henri Salvador and Jacques Brel also performed there. The Marseille audience had a reputation for being demanding and hard-hitting: young Serge Gainsbourg was booed there in 1959.
189 LA MIETTE – JACQUES PRÉVERT
166
189 LA MIETTE –
JACQUES PRÉVERT 7 rue de l’Allée 06570 Saint-Paulde-Vence Alpes-Maritimes saint-pauldevence.com
A small house with a great history. During the Second World War, the French writer, poet and filmmaker Jacques Prévert settled in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, which was in unoccupied territory. Prévert continued to make films at the Studios de la Victorine in nearby Nice. In Saint-Paul he met Pablo Picasso and also became friends with Paul Roux, owner of the auberge Colombe d’Or, for whom Prévert made collages intended for the walls of the now famous hotel-restaurant. From 1945, Jacques Prévert and his wife Jeanine rented a narrow corner house in the village: they called the house La Miette, literally the crumb or chunk. According to tradition, Prévert wrote his world-famous love song Les feuilles mortes there. The melancholic song was set to music by Joseph Kosma and used in the film Les Portes de la Nuit (1946), for which Prévert wrote the screenplay. Unfortunately that movie flopped and the song was forgotten. It was only when Yves Montand recorded Les feuilles mortes in 1949 as a 78rpm record that it suddenly caught on. The song became an international success. Translated as Autumn Leaves, it has been performed by Frank Sinatra and Nat King Cole, among others, and more recently by Iggy Pop, Grace Jones and Eric Clapton. Autumn Leaves also found its way into performances by Miles Davis, Oscar Peterson and Diana Krall as an instrumental jazz track. With more than six hundred different versions, Les feuilles mortes is the most famous French love song. La Miette is included in a Prévert trail through Saint-Paul and can be rented as a holiday home.
167
227 LA CÉRAMIQUE
D’UZÈS
1 rue Port-Royal 30700 Uzès Gard +33 (0)6 23 93 41 60 laceramiqueduzes.com
228 POTERIE
LA BERGERIE 67 Grand’Rue 06140 Tourrettessur-Loup Alpes-Maritimes +33 (0)4 93 59 35 17 vigroux.com
In one of the narrow streets in the historic heart of Uzès is a shop called La céramique d’Uzès. The artist who runs this minimalistic space specialises in delicate and almost seethrough porcelain creations. You’ll find all sorts of objects here, from elegant teapots and painted vases and bowls to engraved cups and porcelain lamp shades – a surprising and refined collection. The actual studio is a couple of hundred metres from the shop.
Relevant GALLERIES
230 GALERIE
CATHERINE ISSERT
It goes without saying that there are dozens of potteries in this area, but this one is especially charming. All of the earthenware – dishes, bowls, cups, egg cups, oil jars, and so on – is fired on site and then painted by hand. The master potter is usually at work in his studio. A remarkable feature of the Potterie La Bergerie is the house’s location: it’s built against a rock, which serves as the back wall! It’s a quite strange and special sight. The entire village of Tourettes-sur-Loup is built on a rock by the way – be sure to check out the viewing point at the far end of town.
2 route des Serres 06570 Saint-Paulde-Vence Alpes-Maritimes +33 (0)4 93 32 96 92 galerie-issert.com
Galerie Catherine Issert stands out from the too many galleries in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, in a good way. Issert has been working hard since 1975, representing interesting contemporary older as well as younger artists from France and abroad. She shows their works, mostly paintings and sculptures, in an austere, nice and spacious gallery at the entrance of town. Her temporary exhibitions allow you to discover artists like John M. Armleder, BEN (Ben Vautier), Tatiana Wolska, Claude Viallat, Bernard Pagès and Anne Pesce.
229 LES CÉRAMIQUES
This is where the probably most famous guinea-fowl of the area are ‘bred’, known as ‘Pintade de Lussan’. Mind you, we’re AT: MAS DE FAN not talking about real animals here, but about a stylised bird Route de Saintmade of ceramic. The ‘pintade’ is a creation of the imagination Ambroix of Heidi Caillard, born in 1932 in Basel, Switzerland. After 30580 Lussan graduating from the École de Céramique in Lausannne she Gard settled in the Uzès area in 1968 and set up a pottery studio +33 (0)6 41 69 31 46 there. She started making guinea fowls, inspired by the ceramique-de-lussan.fr animal living in her garden. It did take some time however to
DE LUSSAN
finally achieve the pure, stylised and recognisable shape that the ceramic guinea fowl has today.
224
230 GALERIE CATHERINE ISSERT
225
227 LA CÉRAMIQUE
D’UZÈS
1 rue Port-Royal 30700 Uzès Gard +33 (0)6 23 93 41 60 laceramiqueduzes.com
228 POTERIE
LA BERGERIE 67 Grand’Rue 06140 Tourrettessur-Loup Alpes-Maritimes +33 (0)4 93 59 35 17 vigroux.com
In one of the narrow streets in the historic heart of Uzès is a shop called La céramique d’Uzès. The artist who runs this minimalistic space specialises in delicate and almost seethrough porcelain creations. You’ll find all sorts of objects here, from elegant teapots and painted vases and bowls to engraved cups and porcelain lamp shades – a surprising and refined collection. The actual studio is a couple of hundred metres from the shop.
Relevant GALLERIES
230 GALERIE
CATHERINE ISSERT
It goes without saying that there are dozens of potteries in this area, but this one is especially charming. All of the earthenware – dishes, bowls, cups, egg cups, oil jars, and so on – is fired on site and then painted by hand. The master potter is usually at work in his studio. A remarkable feature of the Potterie La Bergerie is the house’s location: it’s built against a rock, which serves as the back wall! It’s a quite strange and special sight. The entire village of Tourettes-sur-Loup is built on a rock by the way – be sure to check out the viewing point at the far end of town.
2 route des Serres 06570 Saint-Paulde-Vence Alpes-Maritimes +33 (0)4 93 32 96 92 galerie-issert.com
Galerie Catherine Issert stands out from the too many galleries in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, in a good way. Issert has been working hard since 1975, representing interesting contemporary older as well as younger artists from France and abroad. She shows their works, mostly paintings and sculptures, in an austere, nice and spacious gallery at the entrance of town. Her temporary exhibitions allow you to discover artists like John M. Armleder, BEN (Ben Vautier), Tatiana Wolska, Claude Viallat, Bernard Pagès and Anne Pesce.
229 LES CÉRAMIQUES
This is where the probably most famous guinea-fowl of the area are ‘bred’, known as ‘Pintade de Lussan’. Mind you, we’re AT: MAS DE FAN not talking about real animals here, but about a stylised bird Route de Saintmade of ceramic. The ‘pintade’ is a creation of the imagination Ambroix of Heidi Caillard, born in 1932 in Basel, Switzerland. After 30580 Lussan graduating from the École de Céramique in Lausannne she Gard settled in the Uzès area in 1968 and set up a pottery studio +33 (0)6 41 69 31 46 there. She started making guinea fowls, inspired by the ceramique-de-lussan.fr animal living in her garden. It did take some time however to
DE LUSSAN
finally achieve the pure, stylised and recognisable shape that the ceramic guinea fowl has today.
224
230 GALERIE CATHERINE ISSERT
225
344 HÔTEL
LE CORBUSIER 280 boulevard Michelet 13008 Marseille Bouches-du-Rhône +33 (0)4 28 31 39 22 hotellecorbusier.com
345 LA ROYANTE 340 impasse de La Royante 13400 Aubagneen-Provence Bouches-du-Rhône +33 (0)4 96 18 99 76 laroyante.fr
It is an experience: spending the night in a building by the revolutionary architect Le Corbusier, which is also protected as a Unesco World Heritage Site. On the third floor of La Cité Radieuse (built between 1946 and 1952) is a hotel with rooms designed by Le Corbusier and decorated by Jean Prouvé and Charlotte Perriand. You seem to be stepping into the 1950s. Although the rooms are adapted to contemporary comfort, they exude timeless simplicity, efficiency and charm. Take a good look at the authentic windows, the wall cabinets and the concrete balcony. As a hotel guest you have access to the entire building. The hotel has a beautifully decorated bar and restaurant with a terrace, from which you have a view over the Mediterranean Sea.
An 18th-century bastide with a 19th-century chapel north of Cassis. The estate is referred to on old maps as “the bishop’s castle” and is said to have been the summer residence of the bishops of Marseilles. In any case, you are staying in higher spheres. For example, you can sleep in the sacristy or in the chaplain’s room. And you can relax in the chapel and listen to a Bach cantata. The neo-Gothic chapel was built in 1870 by its then owners, Fortuné and Thomasine Broquier. He was a lawyer in Marseilles, she had links with the Dominican Order. Masses were celebrated for a long time and became so popular with the locals that the Vatican began to worry. On a less religious note: the rooms have paintings with panoramas of Cassis and the sofa in the drawing room comes from Le Jas de Bouffan, the parental home of Paul Cézanne.
344 HÔTEL LE CORBUSIER
261
344 HÔTEL
LE CORBUSIER 280 boulevard Michelet 13008 Marseille Bouches-du-Rhône +33 (0)4 28 31 39 22 hotellecorbusier.com
345 LA ROYANTE 340 impasse de La Royante 13400 Aubagneen-Provence Bouches-du-Rhône +33 (0)4 96 18 99 76 laroyante.fr
It is an experience: spending the night in a building by the revolutionary architect Le Corbusier, which is also protected as a Unesco World Heritage Site. On the third floor of La Cité Radieuse (built between 1946 and 1952) is a hotel with rooms designed by Le Corbusier and decorated by Jean Prouvé and Charlotte Perriand. You seem to be stepping into the 1950s. Although the rooms are adapted to contemporary comfort, they exude timeless simplicity, efficiency and charm. Take a good look at the authentic windows, the wall cabinets and the concrete balcony. As a hotel guest you have access to the entire building. The hotel has a beautifully decorated bar and restaurant with a terrace, from which you have a view over the Mediterranean Sea.
An 18th-century bastide with a 19th-century chapel north of Cassis. The estate is referred to on old maps as “the bishop’s castle” and is said to have been the summer residence of the bishops of Marseilles. In any case, you are staying in higher spheres. For example, you can sleep in the sacristy or in the chaplain’s room. And you can relax in the chapel and listen to a Bach cantata. The neo-Gothic chapel was built in 1870 by its then owners, Fortuné and Thomasine Broquier. He was a lawyer in Marseilles, she had links with the Dominican Order. Masses were celebrated for a long time and became so popular with the locals that the Vatican began to worry. On a less religious note: the rooms have paintings with panoramas of Cassis and the sofa in the drawing room comes from Le Jas de Bouffan, the parental home of Paul Cézanne.
344 HÔTEL LE CORBUSIER
261