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Chintz Indian Cotton Textiles from the Karun Thakar Collection
Edited by Avalon Fotheringham Karun Thakar
9781788843454
Pieces from the collection have been included in three major museum shows since 2020
Details the best private collection of Indian chintz in Europe, arguably the world
The collection ranges in date from the 14th century through to the 20th century, and includes examples that only exist in museum collections
The contributing authors include all the leading museum curators and researchers in this field
Chintz explores the historic importance of Indian printed and painted cotton textiles, drawing on the Karun Thakar Collection. Assembled over thirty years, the collection comprises over two hundred examples, many of which have featured in significant museum exhibitions. With contributions from leading scholars and curators, including from the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, this book examines the historical significance of Indian printed cottons and their influence on global trade from the 14th century onward, and includes examples found in Sri Lanka, Japan and throughout Europe. The book provides insights into the artistry of Indian designers and the enduring legacy of this textile tradition, making it a valuable resource for those with an interest in art history, textile design and global cultural exchange.
A prolific collector and researcher of textiles, Karun Thakar has refined his discerning approach over forty years, building one of the most important private collections in the world. He believes that every textile in his collection has a story to tell about the people who made it and the way that they lived. He lends and donates pieces to international museums to deepen the understanding of what they mean and the cultures to which they belong. Through cloth and his wider collection, he hopes to contribute to a wider understanding of postcolonial narratives. A key aspect of his collecting, exhibiting and publishing is to present objects, such as domestic embroidery, that are not represented in museum collections, and to engage a new audience and demographic through these objects and their many untold narratives. He believes that exploring people s histories through the medium of cloth offers an ideal way to address difficult and complex topics both contemporary and historical. He has published seven books about his collection, and in 2021 launched the Karun Thakar Fund at the V&A. The fund offers scholarships and grants of up to £10,000 to students, early career researchers and emerging practitioners working anywhere in the world on any aspect of Asian or African textiles and dress.
Contributors include: Avalon Fotheringham, editor, Curator of South Asian Textiles and Dress, Victoria & Albert Museum, London.John Guy, Senior Curator of the Arts of South and Southeast Asia, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.Sylvia Houghteling, Associate Professor of History of Art, Bryn Mawr College, Pennsylvania.Ebeltje Hartkamp-Jonxis, Curator Emeritus, Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam. Ariane Fennetaux, University Professor, Sorbonne Nouvelle University, Paris.Steven Cohen, Independent scholar. Rosemary Crill, former Senior Curator for South Asia, Victoria & Albert Museum, London.Ruth Barnes, Thomas Jaffe Curator of Indo-Pacific Art, Yale University Art Gallery, Connecticut.Etsuko Iwanaga, Director, Fukuoka Art Museum, Japan. Fiona Kerlogue, former Deputy Keeper of Anthropology, Horniman Museum, London.Anna Lise Seastrand, Associate Professor of Art History, University of Minnesota-Twin Cities.
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Stephen Ellcock s Book of Textiles
The Karun Thakar Collection
Stephen Ellcock
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781788842495
ACC Art Books
Hardback World
210 mm x 180 mm
256 Pages
253 color, 5 b&w
£25.00
For the first time, social-media art-curator sensation Stephen Ellcock turns his hand to textiles and fashion
Lavishly illustrated with many previously unseen images from Karun Thakar s distinguished textile collection
Designed to appeal to anybody with an interest in art and visual culture, as well as textile experts and enthusiasts
An illuminating journey into the splendours of nature and the infinite entanglements of the human condition
Published in collaboration with Hali, the world s leading textile publisher
It is difficult to leaf through this book without saying wow over and over, which means this is definitely top of the Christmas reading list. Embroidery Magazine
For anyone involved with textile arts, fashion, design, or art from makers to collectors, from students to museum curators this book is an absolute must-have. A feast for the eyes, a source of inspiration, and a reminder of how art, craft, and imagination are intertwined. NL Magazine
Stephen Ellcock s Book of Textiles is a unique collaboration between bestselling author Stephen Ellcock and textile expert Karun Thakar. Together, they share an inspiring vision of the world through the medium of textiles, leading the reader on a journey into the splendours of nature and the infinite complexities of the human condition.
A social-media sensation, Ellcock is widely known for his online curation of artworks, while Thakar owns one of the world s most important and varied textile collections. Through a spellbinding selection of more than 200 of the most significant, extraordinary and distinctive pieces in Thakar s collection, these pages cover everything from fashion, costume and adornment to pattern and design, rituals and magic, pure abstraction and the sublime.
Combining Ellcock s singular vision with Thakar s expert eye, Stephen Ellcock s Book of Textiles is a ground-breaking compendium of wonders and a must-read for anybody with an interest in art and visual culture, as well as textile devotees, experts and enthusiasts.
Renowned image alchemist Stephen Ellcock is a London-based curator, writer, researcher, and online collector of images who has spent the last decade creating an ever-expanding virtual museum of art that is open to all via social media, attracting more than 650,000 followers worldwide. He is also the author of Underworlds, The Cosmic Dance, All Good Things, The Book of Change, England on Fire (with text by Mat Osman) and Jeux de Mains (in collaboration with Cécile Poimboeuf-Koizumi), and the co-author of'Time for Magic the forthcoming retrospective of the work of the late Jamie Reid.
Published 7th Oct 2024
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Threads of Time: A Cultural Journey
Textiles from Around the World
Edited by Daniel Brewster
Edited by Lyssa Stapleton
ISBN
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Price
A journey around the world through the medium of textiles
Full-colour photos of rare textiles from 16 regions
Stunning location photography
Bringing together over 30 voices to tell textile stories
9781898113744
Hali Publications
Hardback
World
325 mm x 250 mm
408 Pages
350 color, 20 b&w
£75.00
Must-have for the culturally curious, textile lovers, interior designers, and travel enthusiasts
Threads of Time is a journey around the world through the medium of textiles. In many communities, cultural heritage and traditions have been handed down through generations by textile artisans. Their beliefs, history, ceremonies, and traditions have been woven into cloth with meaning and purpose sometimes lasting thousands of years. Textiles are special in that they can create narratives that are personal as well as eminently portable.
The pages of Threads of Time illustrate exquisite textiles with location photography, from historical examples of centuries past to extraordinary contemporary expressions, revealing a continuum of inspiration and beauty. The 16 chapters, covering regions from across the globe, feature contributions from local textile makers and experts, bringing together over 30 voices to tell stories of cloth.
Locations explored include: Indonesia, China, Vietnam and Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar, Bhutan, Nagaland, Punjab, Egypt and Palestine, The Caucasus, Turkey, Madagascar, Tunisia, Ghana, Peru and Guatemala, Navajo Nation.
Dan and Dara Brewster have long been inspired by heritage textiles and the cultural narratives they convey. They view artisanal textile making as a foundation for cultural appreciation and advocacy. Lyssa C. Stapleton is the Director of the Waystation Initiative at the UCLA Cotsen Institute of Archaeology. She is interested in the evolution of museum collections stewardship in the 21st century, decolonisation and repatriation, and social justice via the protection and recognition of cultural heritage.
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Quilts at the American Museum & Gardens
Katherine Hebert
Foreword by Kaffe Fassett
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory Size
Pages
Illustrations
Name of series
Price
9781836360292
Kulturalis
Paperback / softback
World
246 mm x 189 mm
128 Pages
100 color
Focus
£17.95
Featuring 50 quilts from the American Museum & Gardens world-class textile collection
Each quilt entry includes new colour photographs of full quilt and details
Includes new additions to the collection never published before Entries bring together existing information and new research for each item
Includes the story of how this remarkable museum and collection was formed Foreword by long-time supporter and friend of the American Museum & Gardens and renowned textile designer, Kaffe Fassett
The American Museum s collection of more than 250 quilts, ranging from the 18th to mid-20th centuries, is acclaimed as the finest of its type in Europe and the equal of many premier collections in the United States. Examples include early whole-cloth quilts, pieced and appliquéd work, Hawaiian and Amish quilts, and the African-American quilts of Gee s Bend. Over 50 quilts and their unique stories are included in this new publication. Each entry is beautifully illustrated with stunning photography that celebrates the skill and artistry of these textiles. The selection includes celebrated favourites and new Museum acquisitions that have never been published before. Accompanying the individual quilt entries is an introductory essay that tells the story of how this remarkable Museum was established and the world-class quilt collection was formed.
The Focus series is a celebration of an institution s chosen area of strength, appealing to the visitor interested in that specific area as well as a wider audience seeking out collections of their favoured genre.
Katherine Hebert is the Chief Curator at the American Museum & Gardens. Her responsibilities include the care and presentation of over 12,000 collection items of American decorative arts within a Grade I-listed building. As a keen quilter in her spare time, the opportunity to work with the outstanding collection of 250 world renowned American quilts at the Museum is particularly appealing. She is the co-author of Classic Quilts at the American Museum (Scala, 2010).
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Tells an evocative story of life along the Silk Road
A must-have for textile lovers
Features many previously unpublished pieces
Central Asian Textiles
The Neville Kingston Collection
Snezhanna Atanova
Tereza Hejzlarová
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781898113881
Hali Publications
Hardback
World
330 mm x 251 mm
282 Pages
300 color, 20 b&w
£60.00
For thousands of years, the peoples of Central Asia have created spectacular textiles for every aspect of life. Infinite care, resources and time have gone into making elaborate costumes (connoting the wearer s identity and place in society), equestrian items, and exquisite furnishings for settled as well as nomadic lifestyles. Items of dress were decorated literally from top to toe: boots were embroidered with metal thread, while hats were stitched, appliquéd and felted. The women of a family would come together to embroider dazzling suzanis to form part of a bride s dowry; master dyers and weavers would craft vibrant ikat hangings. Combined, these objects tell an evocative story of life along the Silk Road in times past.
This book brings together outstanding textiles from the Neville Kingston Collection, featuring many previously unpublished pieces. It is the second volume to document this exceptional English collection; Turkmen Carpets: The Neville Kingston Collection was published in 2016.
Dr Snezhanna Atamova, Nazarbayev University, Astana, and Dr Tereza Hejzlarová, Palacký University, Olomouc, are experts on the material culture of Central Asia.
Published 10th Sep 2025
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Stunning photography
A new take on a beloved textile
Abr
Ikat Robes from Central Asia
Elena Tsareva
ISBN Publisher
Binding Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781898113942
Hali Publications
Hardback World
340 mm x 255 mm
384 Pages
300 color
£65.00
Ikat textiles, known as abr in their lands of origin in Central Asia, are beloved by collectors, decorators and textile devotees across the world. This book presents a new approach to the intricately patterned silk textiles by focusing on complete robes from a major private collection. These items of clothing tell stories about their wearers: their home, identity and place in society. By studying the history, making, and changing fashions of ikat robes, the past is brought to life. It quickly becomes clear that the power and influence of Central Asian costume reached far beyond the borders of modern Uzbekistan, inspiring imitations and providing visual stimuli for avant-garde artists.
With stunning photography and previously unpublished research findings, this publication is a new take on ikat costume for those interested in the history of textiles and fashion, but also for those wishing to admire the sheer beauty and exquisite craftsmanship of these remarkable textiles.
Elena Tsareva is a textile scholar and curator at the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography (Kunstkamera) in St Petersburg. She specialises in archeological and ethnographical textiles, particularly the origin and development of carpet weaving, felts and ikat textiles in Central Asia.
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Collective Threads
Anna Andreeva at the Red Rose Silk Factory
Edited by Christina Kiaer
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9783039422494
Scheidegger & Spiess
Hardback
World excluding Austria, France, Germany, Switzerland, Puerto Rico, United States, Canada, and Japan
275 mm x 220 mm
370 Pages
200 colour, 50 b&w
£35.00
First book outside the former Soviet Union and Russia showcasing the art of designer Anna Andreeva and later Soviet fabric design in general
Examines the collective artistic work of women who shaped the material culture of actually-existing socialism
Links the textile designs by women of 1920s Soviet avant-garde with the work of woman artists in the post-war period
Contributes to the expansion and diversification of the definition of art to include also material culture and highlight the work of women and other historically marginalised makers
Anna Andreeva (1917 2008) was a Russian textile designer and leading artist at the famous Red Rose Silk Factory in Moscow 1946 84. Named after the Polish-German socialist revolutionary Rosa Luxemburg, the factory was a site of collective female design labour that shaped the fashion and material culture of late socialism. Andreeva s spectacular patterns range from the abstract and geometric recalling the early Soviet avant-garde to the cosmic and space-age to the cybernetic to the gorgeously-stylised floral to elegantlyschematised narrative pictures of Moscow, electrification, the cinema, Russian folk art and Central Asian motifs. Her designs for mass production were among the most popular textile prints distributed within USSR in the 1960s and 1970s.
Collective Threads showcases Anna Andreeva s outstanding art through reproductions of her drawings, sketches, and historic fabric samples as well as documents from the Red Rose factory collective, Soviet fashion magazines, and images of international exhibition designs. The illustrations are supplemented with essays contributed by international scholars, curators, and critics who explore Andreeva s work and career and place it in historic and artistic context.
Christina Kiaer is a scholar of art history and a specialist in Soviet art. She is the Frances Hooper Professor in the Arts and Humanities and Chair of the Department of Art History at Northwestern University in Evanston, IL.
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Brown Fleming and the Haarlem Collection
The European production of Dutch wax prints for West Africa
Edited by Helen Elands
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9788836658749
Silvana Hardback
UK, Ireland, Scandinavia, Iceland, Germany, Eastern Europe, & Austria. Arab States non-exclusive. Selected territories in Asia, non-exclusive
290 mm x 230 mm
256 Pages
150 color
£40.00
Scottish merchant Brown Fleming introduced the first wax-printed batik imitations made by Prévinaire and produced in the Netherlands, and adapted them to the tastes of African customers
This book details how copies of Indonesian batik, manufactured in Europe and initially intended for the South-East Asian market, enjoyed unexpected success on the west coast of Africa at the end of the 19th century. The Scottish merchant Brown Fleming introduced the first wax-printed batik imitations made by Prévinaire and produced in the Netherlands, and adapted them to the tastes of African customers.
New research based on Dutch, English and Swiss archives has enabled us not only to reconstruct the earliest collections, but also to provide an overview of the development of Dutch wax in Europe from its beginnings to the last surviving company, Vlisco, in Helmond (Netherlands), which still prints these classics today.
This book will be the first to focus on the history of wax for West Africa in the various European countries from its beginnings to the present day, drawing of course on existing literature, but above all on primary sources.
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La Manufacture Cogolin
A Century of Rug Making in the Gulf of Saint Tropez
Serge Gleizes
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
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Pages
Illustrations
Price
9782226494719
Albin Michel Hardback World
290 mm x 240 mm
240 Pages
180 color, 20 b&w
£79.00
The first book ever written on La Manufacture Cogolin, an artisanal weaver of hand-made rugs in a French atelier run exclusively by women
La Manufacture Cogolin is an internationally admired brand, whose rugs decorate the White House, the Vatican and the Élysée Palace
A gift book for decorative arts and design lovers
La Manufacture Cogolin, a weaver of hand-made rugs established in 1924 in a village near Saint-Tropez, is rich with a traditional craftsmanship particularly sought out by a clientele looking for authenticity and quality. Acquired by the visionary textile engineer Jean Lauer in 1928, La Manufacture Cogolin has grown remarkably from the 1930s onward, thanks to early collaborations with well-known designers such as Jules Leleu, Christian Bérard, Jean-Michel Frank, Sir David Hicks and artists such as Jean Cocteau.
This fully illustrated art book dives into what has made the Cogolin house special for a century. Mixing unpublished archives (letters, photographs, watercolours), lively texts suited to a wide audience, and testimonies from women working in the historical workshop, from contemporaries, and from illustrious customers.
Following a chronological approach, this book describes the manufacture s economic history, shedding light on its rebirth in the 21st century, while placing it in the history of the Decorative Arts of the 19th and 20th centuries, and describes the key elements of this recognised French craftsmanship.
Serge Gleizes is a journalist and a consultant in decoration. Former deputy editor-in-chief for the magazineAD, he contributes to the decoration, architecture, and design pages for the monthly magazine M (Le Monde) and for Ideat. He is also the author of various books: The Arson Villa in Nice (Ed. du Patrimoine, 2011), Bruno Moinard: the strolling architect (La Martinière Style, 2010), The Art of living in Normandy (Flammarion, 2009), Ladurée: sweets maker (Minerva, 2006), etc.
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Plus léger que l'air - Lighter than air
The Flight of the Dragonfly, Uehara Michiko
Laure Schwartz-Arenales
Bertrand Piccard
Michiko Uehara
Shukuko Voss-Tabe
Tomomi Miyagawa
Masanori Moroyama
Suzanne Lassalle
Published to accompany an exhibition at Fondation Baur, Musée des Arts d Extrême-Orient, 30 October 2024 2 February 2025
9791254600764
During the cherry blossom season of April 1924, 100 years ago, on his only trip to the Land of the Rising Sun, Alfred Baur, an extraordinary entrepreneur and founder of the Museum of Far Eastern Art in Geneva, was charmed to discover the sparkling poetry of the images of the floating world (ukiyo-e), combined with the landscapes of the great masters of the print and the delightful motifs found throughout the objects in his superb collection of Japanese art.
Echoing his taste and pioneering spirit, and as part of the celebrations marking the 160th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Switzerland and Japan, this book, thanks to contributions from leading specialists in the fields of handicrafts and textiles, takes an in-depth historical, technical and comparative look at the desire for lightness that underpins the aims, aesthetics and meaning of the work of Michiko Uehara, a virtuoso weaver.
In her studio bathed in the subtropical sunshine of Okinawa, in the archipelago in the far south of Japan where she was born and which is renowned for its textiles, she succeeds in pushing the material to the very edge of nothingness, weaving and dyeing sublime fabrics in three-denier threads*, as fine and transparent as a dragonfly s wing (akezuba in the local language).
This bonding relationship combining the physical and the spiritual which links Uehara to silk fibres and more generally to nature itself, gives rise to woven air as she puts it: an aerial, rhythmic journey, free of borders and attuned to living things.
As this book suggests, this quest is not unrelated to some of the research carried out by Swiss explorer Bertrand Piccard, whose solar aircraft, a giant, silent dragonfly whose carbon-fibre ribs combine extreme strength and lightness, intelligently weaves a harmonious path between humanity, earth and sky
* The Denier (Den) is a measure of continuous thread, i.e. its weight in grams per 9000 metres of thread; i.e. 1 Den = 1 gr./9000m of thread Text in English and French.
A graduate of the École du Louvre and a doctor of Paris IV Sorbonne, Laure Schwartz-Arenales began her career at the Musée national des Arts asiatiques-Guimet and the École du Louvre, where she taught East Asian art. Her research on Japanese ancient painting, conducted since 1998 in Japan (Tohoku University - Kyoto National Museum), was awarded the Kajima Foundation for the Arts in 2007. Professor at Ochanomizu University and then at Sophia University (Tokyo), she has been director of the Baur Foundation, Museum of Far Eastern Arts in Geneva since 2018. Born in Naha, Okinawa in 1949, Michiko Uehara became familiar with Okinawan textiles through the Japan Folk Art Museum (Tokyo) when she was in college. After entering the world of textiles under the tutelage of the renowned master weaver Yoshihiro Yanagi, she learned traditional Okinawan weaving techniques from Shizuko Ôshiro and established the "Mayu-ori" workshop in 1979. Using 3-denier silk threads, the finest thread a silkworm can produce, Uehara weaves incredibly light and airy textiles, baptized "Akezuba-ori," which, in Okinawa, means a dragonfly's wing. Explorer, psychiatrist and pioneer of clean technologies, Bertrand Piccard is the author of two first aeronautical round-the-world flights in a balloon and a solar plane. President of the Solar Impulse Foundation, this United Nations Environment Ambassador uses his fame to serve progress, sustainability and quality of life, three themes that are reflected in his concept of "qualitative economy".
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Fashion for God
Religious Textiles from Hidden Churches in the Dutch Republic 1580-1800
Edited by Waanders Publishers
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9789462625082
Waanders Publishers
Paperback / softback
World excluding Benelux and Germany
280 mm x 220 mm
224 Pages
200 color
£45.00
A fully illustrated book supporting the exhibition Fashion for God in the Museum Catharijneconvent, Utrecht, running until 21st January 2024
When the survival of the Catholic Church was threatened during the Republic and Catholic shelter churches were not allowed to be recognisable from the street, what was not allowed to be shown on the outside was compensated for on the inside. In the 17th century, the robes became gold, silver and silk expressions of silent resistance, but also of a feminist agenda of the makers. Behind closed doors, everything was literally and figuratively pulled out to propagate the Catholic faith. Worn ball gowns with colourful flowered French, English and Chinese fashion fabrics were donated to the church by rich, pious women so that beautiful and special church vestments could be made from them. So it could easily happen that a priest in a pink robe with flowers stood at the altar.
Published 12th Jun 2024
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An Unbroken Thread
Celebrating 150 Years of the Royal School of Needlework - updated edition
Susan Kay-Williams
ISBN
Publisher Binding Territory Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781788842600
ACC Art Books
Hardback
World
270 mm x 215 mm
256 Pages
240 color, 56 b&w
£37.50
Showcasing regalia for the coronation of Their Majesties King Charles III and Queen Camilla Covering the remarkable history of the Royal School of Needlework (RSN) from inception to the present day Illustrated with historical pictures and documents Original edition published to coincide with the RSN s 150th anniversary
The RSN has worked on regalia for every Coronation since 1902, when Edward VII was crowned, and most recently designed and embroidered the robes of state for their Coronation last year. Its patron, Queen Camilla, has written a charming foreword to this beautifully illustrated book. The Lady Bees, butterflies, beetles and 24 different plants the astonishing sewing secrets behind the gorgeous Coronation robes of the King and Queen. The Mail Online Many initiatives to support women were begun in the late 1800s, but the Royal School of Needlework (RSN) is one of the few that remain. This initiative was born from the desire of three women Princess Helena, Lady Victoria Welby and Lady Marian Alford to popularise the lost art of ornamental needlework and place it on a par with other decorative arts, such as painting and sculpture. Their other, yet no less important goal was to provide employment for women compelled to earn their own livelihood. Though women are no longer so limited in occupational options, the RSN has been keeping traditional embroidery techniques alive for a century and a half.
An Unbroken Thread tells the story from the RSN s founding in 1872 to the current day. It highlights key people, royal and other special commissions, the changing fortunes of the school as fashions changed and the approach to teaching hand embroidery, as well as bringing attention to the role and position of the RSN historically and today, associating with everyone from society ladies and theatre impresarios in the late 19th century to working with fashion designers Patrick Grant, Nicholas Oakwell and Alexander McQueen, and architects in the 21st century.
First published to coincide with the RSN s 150th anniversary, this revised edition details the most recent projects worked by the RSN, showcasing their skilful work on regalia for the coronation of Their Majesties King Charles III and Queen Camilla The King s Robe of State, The Queen s Robe of Estate, The Anointing Screen, The Stole Royal and Girdle, The Chairs of Estate and The Chairs of State.
Dr Susan Kay-Williams has been chief executive of the Royal School of Needlework since 2007. She is also a curator and archivist. She has spent a lot of her spare time researching the RSN s history because she believes more of its remarkable history needs to be known. In her own right, her research interest is in the history of dyes and textile dyeing. She published The Story of Colour in Textiles in 2013 (Bloomsbury).
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Tibetan Rugs
The Rudi Molacek Collection
Rudi Molacek
Thomas Wild
Thomas Cole
Felix Elwert
ISBN Publisher Binding Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781898113713
Hali Publications
Hardback World
280 mm x 200 mm
240 Pages
300 color, 30 b&w
£80.00
Featuring many previously unseen pieces
Sheds new light on life on the Tibetan Plateau Two hardbacks, slipcased
Artist and photographer Rudi Molacek has assembled, with an artist s eye, an idiosyncratic collection of more than 300 Tibetan carpets, rugs, mats, seat-, bench- and saddle-covers. Between the 15th and the 20th centuries they were woven for both sacred and secular purposes by Tibetan nomads and villagers, and in the shadow of monastic centres across the Tibetan Plateau. The first volume presents Tibetan rugs intended for sitting, sleeping, meditation and horse riding, as well as those made to furnish the region s prestigious temples and monasteries an expression of the relative wealth and status of their owners. The second volume focuses on a group of so-called Wangden rural rugs, characterised by a unique weaving technique, some of which have been the subject of an illuminating exercise in radiocarbon dating to establish the antiquity of the tradition.
Artist and photographer Rudi Molacek has collected Tibetan carpets for many years. For this book, he is joined by a team of experts on weaving and Tibetan culture.
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Untold stories of textile travellers
Pull of the Thread
Textile Travels of a Generation
Sheila Fruman
ISBN Publisher
Binding Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781898113874
Hali Publications
Hardback World
280 mm x 240 mm
231 Pages
250 color, 25 b&w
£35.00
Colour photos of rare antique textiles and stunning interiors
Featuring previously unpublished photographs from the 1970s of streets and bazaars in Central and South Asia
A must-have for textile lovers and interior and fashion designers
Sheila Fruman, fascinated by the textiles and handmade carpets she saw when she travelled overland in 1969 from Turkey to India, tells the stories of nine intrepid adventurers who have combed the streets and bazaars of Central and South Asia finding, researching, collecting and selling antique Kashmir shawls, embroidered Uzbek textiles and robes, Anatolian kilims, Turkmen carpets and many other textile treasures to interested Westerners.
These stories capture the post-World War II era s free spirit that briefly coincided with economic prosperity and open borders. With over 200 colour illustrations, the book shows how the indigenous designs and motifs popularised in the US and Europe by these textile travellers can now be found in anything from haute couture to high-end interior design to mass-marketed bedding, tableware and clothing.
The dealers and collectors who have spent their lives seeking these complex pieces of the past have intriguing stories to tell and collections of some of the finest textiles of their kind in the world. Taken together, their stories are an enlightening guide to understanding how we connect to the past, and how textiles connect the world.
Sheila Fruman s travels in 1969 from London to Mumbai aroused a keen interest in textiles and carpets. After a 25-year career in politics in her native Canada and, later, working in post-conflict countries to support democratisation, she has pursued her love of handmade antique textiles and authored a book about fellow textile travellers.
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A high quality facsimile reproduction
The Holker Album Textile
Samples and Industrial Espionage in the 18th Century
Edited by Ariane Fennetaux
Edited by John Styles
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9782916914879
Musée des Arts Décoratifs
Hardback
World excluding France and Belgium
370 mm x 250 mm
272 Pages
170 color
£60.00
Essays written by leading specialists in economic history, textile techniques, the global cotton trade, technology transfer, and fashion
Many appendices: Translation of the manuscript in English, Technical analysis of the samples, Glossary, Indexes, etc.
An indispensable reference work for the study of the history of textiles and fashion on the eve of the Industrial Revolution
In 1751, John Holker (1719-1786), an English textile manufacturer exiled in France, undertook an industrial espionage mission to England to collect samples of English textiles on behalf of the French king, Louis XV. On his return, the samples were assembled in a manuscript volume, which is now preserved at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris. Each sample in this album is accompanied by a handwritten technical description specifying the quality of the fabric, its price, its dimensions and the manufacturing processes. This album is famous for preserving the oldest identifiable samples of jean fabric.
Completely bilingual, the book includes a facsimile reproduction of the album, accompanied by a transcription of its handwritten text and a dozen essays. The essays, written by academics, curators and specialists from France, Britain, and North America, explore the album from various angles: the globalisation of commerce, the slave trade, industrial espionage, economic rivalry between France and England, the taste for cotton and its role in the history of fashion, etc. The book demonstrates the importance of centuries-old links between France and the United Kingdom and is an indispensable work of reference for the history of textiles.
Text in English and French.
Ariane Fennetaux is Associate Professor in British history at Université Paris Cité. Her research and publications focus on material culture with a particular emphasis on textiles and dress. Her book, The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women s Lives 1660-1900, co-authored with Barbara Burman, was published in 2019 by Yale University Press.
John Styles is Professor Emeritus in History at the University of Hertfordshire and Honorary Senior Research Fellow at the Victoria and Albert Museum. He specialises in the history of material life, manufacturing and design. His books include The Dress of the People: Everyday Fashion in Eighteenth-Century England, published by Yale University Press in 2007, and Threads of Feeling: The London Foundling Hospital s Textile Tokens, 1740-1770, published by the London Foundling Museum in 2010.
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Labels of Empire Textile Trademarks: Windows into India in the Time
of the Raj
Susan Meller
ISBN
9781954081253
ORO Editions
Hardback
World excluding USA, Canada, Australasia. Asia non-exclusive.
Illustrations Price
299 mm x 229 mm 544 Pages 1285 color £79.95
Labels of Empire is a deluxe edition with 1,285 colour images. It is the first book to categorise the labels produced for the British and Indian textile industries and to examine the significant role they played in the histories of both
These colourful, eye-catching images will have broad general appeal
They will be of particular interest to the textile audience of Meller s three previous books which to date, have sold more than 69,700 copies as well as to ephemera collectors and dealers, the many institutions with textile collections, and those with an interest in the history of India and its popular culture. Since they were, in effect, company trademarks, and as such designed to draw attention, they offer a wealth of inspiration to graphic artists in fields such as advertising, book design, and packaging
A richly visual art book and a cultural-historical study. Like Meller s Textile Designs Russian Textiles, and Silk and Cotton it is suitable for universities, schools, libraries and museums, historians, and historical societies
At one time Great Britain clothed the world. In the 1880s, when the British textile industry was at its height, 85 percent of the world s population wore clothing made from fabric produced in the mills of Lancashire. From 1910 to 1913 alone, seven billion yards of cloth were folded, stamped, labeled, and baled. Most of this output was for export, and 30 percent of it went to India.
British textile manufacturers selling into the competitive Indian market were dealing with a largely illiterate population. In order to differentiate their goods, they stamped their cloth with distinctive images a crouching tiger or perhaps an elephant standing on top of a globe. When chromolithography came into widespread use in the late 1800s, illustrated paper labels (known in the trade as shipper s tickets ) made to appeal to the local people were added. Designed, printed, and registered in Manchester, these brightly colored images were pasted onto the pieces of cloth being sold, further helping to establish a company s brand. Hindu gods, native animals, scenes from the great Indian epics the Mahabharata and Ramayana and views of everyday life were common subjects. In a sense a form of premium, they provided the consumer with an additional incentive to buy the goods of a particular firm.
Labels of Empire begins with the late 19th-century heyday of British textile manufacturing and closes with Indian independence in 1947. By combining visual narrative, popular culture, and magical realism in a way never done before, this book offers an unprecedented look at the British textile industry in the time of the Raj and its remarkably successful use of paper labels as trademarks.
Susan Meller has been collecting and studying textiles for more than 50 years. In the 1960s, she worked in the New York textile industry as a designer and strike-off artist for Riegel Textile Corporation, Dan River Mills, and other fabric converters, traveling to their mills in South Carolina and Georgia to supervise the printing of their fabrics. This early experience gave her an invaluable insight into working operations of what were still, in many respects, 19th-century mills and mill towns. She later founded and created the Design Library (www.design-library.com), formerly in New York City and now located in a converted textile factory in Wappingers Falls, New York. With over 5 million designs, the Design Library is the largest and most extensive commercial archive of period textiles and original textile designs in the world.
Susan Meller is co-author of Textile Designs: Two Hundred Years of European and American Patterns (Abrams, 1991); author of Russian Textiles: Printed Cloth for the Bazaars of Central Asia (Abrams, 2007) and Silk and Cotton: Textiles from the Central Asia that was (Abrams, 2013; La Martinière, 2013); and contributing author to Colors of the Oasis: Central Asian Ikats (The Textile Museum, 2010).
She lives in Berkeley, California with her husband Frank Rubenfeld.
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Tai A Woven Culture
Photographs by Hans Roels
Other Napajaree Suanduenchai
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9786164510746
River Books
Hardback
World excluding Belgium, Netherlands, South East Asia, USA & Canada
320 mm x 295 mm
336 Pages
200 color
£80.00
The most comprehensive and detailed study and representation of the Tai people, with stunning photographs and beautifully presented case bound
This book serves as a celebration of the textiles made by various Tai subgroups and non-Tai minority groups encountered during the authors journey.
Hali Magazine
This lavish, large format art project is the culmination of 20 years research of Tai culture throughout Southeast Asia, beginning with Napajaree Suandduenchai s vast 1,500 piece silk collection which has remained private until now. All 230 photographs were shot on sheet film to bring out the most intricate details of the textiles.
Over the last 20 years, Mrs. Suanduenchai and photographer Hans Roels visited all the major Tai subgroups in their towns and villages to document their weaving traditions, culture and individual stories their belief of who they are and where they came from. Roels photography captures both the intricacy of the Tai weaving arts as well as the people behind the textiles. As of 2022 at least 75% of the villages that Suanduenchai and Roels visited no longer produce traditional Tai textiles, leaving the reader as the last eye-witnesses to a spectacular culture.
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Global Ikat
Roots and Routes of a Textile Technique
Edited by Rosemary Crill
ISBN Publisher
Binding Territory Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781898113904
Hali Publications
Hardback World
300 mm x 245 mm
240 Pages
300 color, 20 b&w
£40.00
This is the first time all the different iterations of this textile have been comprehensively brought together in one volume, drawing from the wide-ranging collection of David Paly It is a journey across the world through the lens of ikat
Deceptively simple or fantastically intricate, ikat technique has been used for many centuries to create extravagant costumes and cloths of deep cultural meaning. The distinctively blurred, feathered or jagged patterns of ikat-dyed textiles are found across much of the world from Japan in the east to Central and South America in the west, with vast areas of South-east Asia, India, Central Asia and the Middle East in between. The traditional patterns still hold cultural relevance today in significant parts of the long-established ikatweaving areas. Textile artists and fashion designers in many and varied countries have taken ikat in new directions, respecting traditional forms and palettes while creatively diverging from them.
This is the first time all the different iterations of this textile have been comprehensively brought together in one volume, drawing from the wide-ranging collection of David Paly. It is a journey across the world through the lens of ikat.
This book brings together some of the world s foremost experts on ikat textiles, with an introduction by renowned textile scholar and curator Rosemary Crill.
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The Life Thread
Paracas Textiles and Culture
Kerstin Paradis Gustafsson
ISBN Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781788841863
ACC Art Books
Hardback World
260 mm x 230 mm
356 Pages
334 color, 59 b&w
£60.00
A ground breaking publication about Paracas textiles produced in Peru more than 2000 years ago
Written by a world authority on these textiles
This book documents a collection of approximately 90 Paracas textiles. The collection consists of cloaks, ponchos, tunics, as well as some smaller fragments such as ribbons. Originally housed at the Ethnographic Museum in Gothenburg, Sweden, the objects were returned to Peru during 2019 and 2020. Paracas textiles tell the story of the people living in Peru more than 2000 years ago and how they saw and viewed the world. In cultures without a written language imagery is very important. Textile pictures were created from the depths of the human senses, from thoughts and dreams. The makers of the Paracas textiles depict fantastic stories from their time and culture about creation, death and thoughts about life.
Kerstin Paradis Gustafsson has studied, inventoried and analysed the Paracas textiles for decades, and cracked codes about how they were made. She also has pioneering theories about what they want to say and how the unbroken thread symbolises life. In this text, Kerstin documents and explains the secret behind these fantastic 2000-year-old textiles.
Kerstin Paradis Gustafsson is an academic and author with a specialism in old and historic textiles and the techniques used to manufacture them.
TITLE INFORMATION
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Atelier Zanolli
Fabrics, Fashion, Craft 1905 1939
Edited by Museum für Gestaltung Zürich
Edited by Sabine Flaschberger
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9783039420827
Scheidegger & Spiess
Hardback
World excluding Austria, Germany, Switzerland, Puerto Rico, United States, Canada, and Japan
270 mm x 200 mm
320 Pages
300 color
£45.00
The first-ever comprehensive and lavishly illustrated introduction to the history and product world of Zurich-based Atelier Zanolli
More than 600 colour illustrations showcase the full range of the cheerful fabrics, pearl creations, as well as wood and leather goods, produced by this entirely women-run Swiss family enterprise
An important contribution to the history of Swiss design and the country s fashion and textile industry in the time before World War II
Under the label Atelier Zanolli, a fantastic world of silk fabrics that were painted and imprinted with patterns, opulently embroidered cushions, colourful pearl creations, as well as finely crafted leather and wood articles, was created between 1905 and 1939 in Zurich. The Zanollis had immigrated from Italy in 1905. Their family business was entirely women-run by mother Antonietta and her daughters Pia, Lea, and Zoe Zanolli. The cultural and stylistic influences manifested in the Zanollis visually appealing product world range from the avant-garde to a typically Swiss aesthetic forged by a national spirit of defence against the increasingly felt threat that Nazi Germany posed to the country in the 1930s. Driven by a striving for artistic self-realisation, the atelier defied the many economic challenges of the period and carried out many commissions for Zurich s leading textile businesses and department stores.
This book traces the history of Atelier Zanolli, places its work in the context of the development of Zurich and the Swiss textile industry in the first half of the 20th century, and for the first time also positions the Zanolli style internationally. More than 600 images show the wealth of colours and shapes of the cosmos of textiles and crafted objects, as well as templates, sketches, private photographs, business cards, and letters. The essays illuminate the techniques and work processes used, discuss entire motif families and unique designs, and grant a rare comprehensive insight into the tastes of the time.
Sabine Flaschberger is curator of Museum für Gestaltung Zürich s decorative arts collection. Museum für Gestaltung Zürich is Switzerland s leading museum of design and visual communication. Its widely renowned collection comprises more than 500,000 objects representing Swiss and international design history.
Published 16th Jun 2022
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Nomadic Visions
Tribal Weavings from Persia and the Caucasus
Michael Rothberg
ISBN Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781898113829
Hali Publications
Hardback World
320 mm x 256 mm
320 Pages
250 color, 20 b&w
£60.00
Antique knotted-pile transport bags and other collectible small-format weavings, both utilitarian and decorative, made by the nomadic tribes of the Caucasus region and Iran
The best of the best in a widely collected area of textile arts
Extensive text, beautifully-written and well-researched, this book leads us through many historical and geographical adventures and towards a plethora of full-colour plates These pages ground us by sharing a complex culture expressed through an object of practical simplicity. Ptolemy Mann, Selvedge
The Michael and Amy Rothberg Collection of knotted-pile tribal and nomadic bags and other rare small format pile weavings, among them many pieces made for women s dowries and other ceremonial functions, is recognised as the best of its kind anywhere in the world. The collection has been carefully and thoughtfully assembled over the past four decades. Michael Rothberg s collections are above all distinguished by the collector s acutely sensitive and perceptive eye for the best museum-quality material available on the international market. Specialists in the field and other collectors and tribal weaving enthusiasts have awaited the publication of this part of the Rothberg Collection for many years, ever since a selection of the material was shown at Sotheby s in Los Angeles in a feature exhibition during the American Conference on Oriental Rugs in January 1996. The scope of the collection includes antique pile bags, from the Transcaucasus region, as well as from the Shahsavan, Kurdish, Varamin region, Qashqa i, Khamseh, Luri, Bakhtiari, Afshar and Baluch tribes of Iran.
Michael Rothberg is a San Francisco Bay Area collector of antique carpets and rugs, and a careful and methodical expert on the genre, with many years experience of acquiring only the best for his collections.
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Blue Tailoring
Edited by Stefano Chiassai
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
9788836646975
Silvana Hardback
UK, Ireland, Scandinavia, Iceland, Germany, Eastern Europe, & Austria. Arab States non-exclusive. Selected territories in Asia, non-exclusive
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
325 mm x 240 mm
256 Pages
200 color
£85.00
Denim: the most widespread fabric on the planet, in designer Stefano Chiassai s original sartorial reinterpretation
Denim is a symbol of cultural globalisation. Democratic, versatile, resistant to the passing of time and to changing tastes and styles, it embodies rebellion and standardisation at the same time.
Stefano Chassai, an established designer on the international scene, searches for new variations of the iconic blue fabric in the sphere of men s wardrobe: mixed with other materials and ennobled with unusual techniques, between craftsmanship and new technologies, denim leaves the casual universe to enter the field of tailoring, as the raw material for a new concept of elegance.
The result is Blue Tailoring, the story of an ideal collection, a creative laboratory and manifesto of the stylist s poetics.
With the collaboration of over 30 Italian companies, Stefano Chiassai tells his original interpretation of the most widespread fabric on the planet.
The book is divided into 10 chapters in which the designer tackles different design methods and combinations of materials, exploring new concepts of form. It also includes an interview by Claudio Marenco Mores and critical texts by Paola Maddaluno, Bruno Casini, Antonio Mancinelli and Claudio Marenco Mores.
Text in English and Italian.
