COMINO / NORTH
1__ St Mary’s Chapel Returning from exile In one of the most isolated and solitary places on the Maltese archipelago, a small chapel recalls the traditions of the Byzantine era. St Mary’s Chapel is a very ancient building which commemorates one of the greatest joys of the Virgin Mary’s life: her return from Egypt, along with Joseph and Jesus, which took place after an angel announced the death of Herod. According to historians, the veneration of this event was and still is typical of Eastern orthodox churches, whose architectural features are reflected in the design of the Comino Chapel. The chapel is not located far from the sea, from the island’s ferry terminal or from the bungalows of the only local hotel, located on the north side of Comino. In the past, the arid island of Comino was actually inhabited for a long time by a small community of farmers, helped by the presence of a couple of small fresh water springs. But, at some point, the island was abandoned, until the construction of St Mary’s Tower by the Knights Hospitaller (see ch. 2). The church was restored several times until, in 1716, it took on its current form: surrounded by a churchyard and dominated by a small bell gable with three arches. The interior is reminiscent of Greek churches, with a clear separation between the space reserved for the faithful and that used for liturgical celebrations. On the altar, a 19th-century painting shows the Holy Family on its way home, with an angel guiding a mule and Mary holding Jesus’ hand. It is a very rare kind of interpretation to see, because the traditional Christian iconography has always tended to focus more on the family’s escape to Egypt, rather than its return from exile. During summer, mass is officiated there every Saturday evening and Sunday morning, and every year a fairly large crowd gathers to celebrate the local festival that takes place on the 19th of August. 10
Address Comino North | Getting there Take a tourist boat from Mġarr and Ħondoq ir-Rummien (Gozo) or from Ċirkewwa (Malta) | Tip The only accommodation on the island are the rooms or bungalows of the Comino Hotel, only open during the holiday season (www.cominohotel.com).
COMINO / NORTH
1__ St Mary’s Chapel Returning from exile In one of the most isolated and solitary places on the Maltese archipelago, a small chapel recalls the traditions of the Byzantine era. St Mary’s Chapel is a very ancient building which commemorates one of the greatest joys of the Virgin Mary’s life: her return from Egypt, along with Joseph and Jesus, which took place after an angel announced the death of Herod. According to historians, the veneration of this event was and still is typical of Eastern orthodox churches, whose architectural features are reflected in the design of the Comino Chapel. The chapel is not located far from the sea, from the island’s ferry terminal or from the bungalows of the only local hotel, located on the north side of Comino. In the past, the arid island of Comino was actually inhabited for a long time by a small community of farmers, helped by the presence of a couple of small fresh water springs. But, at some point, the island was abandoned, until the construction of St Mary’s Tower by the Knights Hospitaller (see ch. 2). The church was restored several times until, in 1716, it took on its current form: surrounded by a churchyard and dominated by a small bell gable with three arches. The interior is reminiscent of Greek churches, with a clear separation between the space reserved for the faithful and that used for liturgical celebrations. On the altar, a 19th-century painting shows the Holy Family on its way home, with an angel guiding a mule and Mary holding Jesus’ hand. It is a very rare kind of interpretation to see, because the traditional Christian iconography has always tended to focus more on the family’s escape to Egypt, rather than its return from exile. During summer, mass is officiated there every Saturday evening and Sunday morning, and every year a fairly large crowd gathers to celebrate the local festival that takes place on the 19th of August. 10
Address Comino North | Getting there Take a tourist boat from Mġarr and Ħondoq ir-Rummien (Gozo) or from Ċirkewwa (Malta) | Tip The only accommodation on the island are the rooms or bungalows of the Comino Hotel, only open during the holiday season (www.cominohotel.com).
COMINO / SOUTH-WEST
2__ St Mary’s Tower Is Château d’If here? ‘Dantès rose and looked forward, when he saw rise within a hundred yards of him the black and frowning rock on which stands the Chateau d’If.’ That’s how Alexandre Dumas, in his famous novel The Count of Monte Cristo, describes his hero’s first encounter with the penitentiary that awaits him. ‘This gloomy fortress, which has for more than three hundred years furnished food for so many wild legends, seemed to Dantès like a scaffold to a malefactor.’ As is well known, the original castle stands on an island off the coast of Marseille. Few people know, however, that there is a Château d’If also in Comino. The massive Tower of St Mary is clearly visible from the highest point on Comino island, that point being halfway between Malta and Gozo. In fact, St Mary’s Tower was used in 2002 in the film The Count of Monte Cristo, directed by Kevin Reynolds. ‘An enjoyable tale of old-fashioned swashbuckling,’ according to one of the bestknown film review sites. Leaving aside for a moment the misadventures of Edmond and Abbot Faria, the tower was erected in 1618, and it was very expensive, which was probably due to its inconvenient position, the fact that it’s 12 metres tall and the small detail of its imposing walls that are as thick as 6 metres in some parts. The fortress contained a small chapel dedicated to St Joseph and could accommodate up to 60 soldiers and six pieces of artillery. In the 1700s, this isolated and solitary bastion was used for the punishment of Knights Hospitaller who had committed small crimes or slight insubordinations. As punishment, they were sentenced to long weeks of imprisonment in the silence of Comino. The traces of time have been erased by the restoration that began in 2002, and now the tower is managed by Din l-Art Helwa (National Trust of Malta) and can be visited from September to May. 12
Address Torri ta’ Santa Marija, south-west of Comino | Getting there By boat to Comino, then continue on foot | Hours Apr – Oct Thu – Sun 10.30am – 3pm (if the flag is displayed) | Tip One of the most popular and famous seaside spots of the archipelago is the Blue Lagoon. Soft drinks and small snacks can be purchased during the summer months, right at the foot of the cliff on which St Mary’s Tower sits.
COMINO / SOUTH-WEST
2__ St Mary’s Tower Is Château d’If here? ‘Dantès rose and looked forward, when he saw rise within a hundred yards of him the black and frowning rock on which stands the Chateau d’If.’ That’s how Alexandre Dumas, in his famous novel The Count of Monte Cristo, describes his hero’s first encounter with the penitentiary that awaits him. ‘This gloomy fortress, which has for more than three hundred years furnished food for so many wild legends, seemed to Dantès like a scaffold to a malefactor.’ As is well known, the original castle stands on an island off the coast of Marseille. Few people know, however, that there is a Château d’If also in Comino. The massive Tower of St Mary is clearly visible from the highest point on Comino island, that point being halfway between Malta and Gozo. In fact, St Mary’s Tower was used in 2002 in the film The Count of Monte Cristo, directed by Kevin Reynolds. ‘An enjoyable tale of old-fashioned swashbuckling,’ according to one of the bestknown film review sites. Leaving aside for a moment the misadventures of Edmond and Abbot Faria, the tower was erected in 1618, and it was very expensive, which was probably due to its inconvenient position, the fact that it’s 12 metres tall and the small detail of its imposing walls that are as thick as 6 metres in some parts. The fortress contained a small chapel dedicated to St Joseph and could accommodate up to 60 soldiers and six pieces of artillery. In the 1700s, this isolated and solitary bastion was used for the punishment of Knights Hospitaller who had committed small crimes or slight insubordinations. As punishment, they were sentenced to long weeks of imprisonment in the silence of Comino. The traces of time have been erased by the restoration that began in 2002, and now the tower is managed by Din l-Art Helwa (National Trust of Malta) and can be visited from September to May. 12
Address Torri ta’ Santa Marija, south-west of Comino | Getting there By boat to Comino, then continue on foot | Hours Apr – Oct Thu – Sun 10.30am – 3pm (if the flag is displayed) | Tip One of the most popular and famous seaside spots of the archipelago is the Blue Lagoon. Soft drinks and small snacks can be purchased during the summer months, right at the foot of the cliff on which St Mary’s Tower sits.
GOZO / DWEJRA
3__ Azure Window Created from a collapse, destroyed by a collapse At the edge of Dwejra Bay, the natural arch of the Azure Window – or Tieqa Żerqa in Maltese – came into being as a result of the collapse of an enormous marine cave that had been eroded by the sea. There is no mention of it by travellers before the start of the 19th century, suggesting that the great limestone structure appeared as a result of the collapse less than two centuries ago. At just under 30 meters tall, the arch was one of the symbols of the archipelago, its coasts and sea for decades. It was visited by thousands of tourists over the years, and an adventurous climber even tackled its vertical walls! Fans of Game of Thrones may recognise it as the imposing arch structure in front of which hundreds of Dothraki assembled in one of the first episodes. Furthermore, many films were shot there, including The Count of Montecristo by Alexandre Dumas and, more recently, the mythological blockbuster, Clash of the Titans. However, this glorious work of nature, which was either the subject or background of endless photos, movies, selfies and advertising campaigns, cracked and crumbled into the sea at around 9.40am on 8 March, 2017. During a series of violent storms, the outer pillar of the structure fell apart and was swallowed by the waves in the space of a few moments. All the people of Malta expressed shock, sadness and regret over the major loss in Malta’s cultural heritage. The forces of nature, which day after day mould the jagged coasts of this archipelago, had brought about a stark and irreversible change. However, seeds of hope were sown soon after the loss when the above-ground wonder began its new life as an underwater attraction, thrilling diving enthusiasts from around the world, many of who are eager to see the ruins as they are now, before they are changed too much by their new life as part of the underwater world around the bay. 14
Address Dwejra Bay, San Lawrenz, Gozo | Getting there Bus 311 to Dwejra, follow Triq id-Dwejra for a few minutes and then take the first turn on the right in the direction of Dwerja Tower | Tip A short walk from the Dwejra Bay car park (located next to places one can rest and purchase refreshments), there is the small chapel of St Anna, which is one of the last churches to be founded in Gozo. This is where the saint’s festivities are held every year on the 26th of July.
GOZO / DWEJRA
3__ Azure Window Created from a collapse, destroyed by a collapse At the edge of Dwejra Bay, the natural arch of the Azure Window – or Tieqa Żerqa in Maltese – came into being as a result of the collapse of an enormous marine cave that had been eroded by the sea. There is no mention of it by travellers before the start of the 19th century, suggesting that the great limestone structure appeared as a result of the collapse less than two centuries ago. At just under 30 meters tall, the arch was one of the symbols of the archipelago, its coasts and sea for decades. It was visited by thousands of tourists over the years, and an adventurous climber even tackled its vertical walls! Fans of Game of Thrones may recognise it as the imposing arch structure in front of which hundreds of Dothraki assembled in one of the first episodes. Furthermore, many films were shot there, including The Count of Montecristo by Alexandre Dumas and, more recently, the mythological blockbuster, Clash of the Titans. However, this glorious work of nature, which was either the subject or background of endless photos, movies, selfies and advertising campaigns, cracked and crumbled into the sea at around 9.40am on 8 March, 2017. During a series of violent storms, the outer pillar of the structure fell apart and was swallowed by the waves in the space of a few moments. All the people of Malta expressed shock, sadness and regret over the major loss in Malta’s cultural heritage. The forces of nature, which day after day mould the jagged coasts of this archipelago, had brought about a stark and irreversible change. However, seeds of hope were sown soon after the loss when the above-ground wonder began its new life as an underwater attraction, thrilling diving enthusiasts from around the world, many of who are eager to see the ruins as they are now, before they are changed too much by their new life as part of the underwater world around the bay. 14
Address Dwejra Bay, San Lawrenz, Gozo | Getting there Bus 311 to Dwejra, follow Triq id-Dwejra for a few minutes and then take the first turn on the right in the direction of Dwerja Tower | Tip A short walk from the Dwejra Bay car park (located next to places one can rest and purchase refreshments), there is the small chapel of St Anna, which is one of the last churches to be founded in Gozo. This is where the saint’s festivities are held every year on the 26th of July.
GOZO / DWEJRA
4__ Inland Sea Boat trip in the tunnel Even when the wind is strong, the sea is rough and the waves are crashing on the rocks of the wild coast of Dwejra, there is a place where the small fishing boats never cease to sway gently on the water’s surface, heedless of the storm. I am referring to the small Inland Sea lagoon, which the Maltese call il-Qawra, and which used to be enclosed within a colossal sea cave. When the cavity’s vault collapsed due to a fracture in the rock, the small basin was exposed to the sun. Today a vertical wall embraces it on one side, while a beach gently slopes towards the water on the other, and there is a narrow tunnel in the wall that connects the Inland Sea to the open sea. This geological shaft is about 30 metres long, and when the waters are calm, it can be reached by fishermen and tourists by boat. In addition, the area is a popular spot for diving, but the divers often prefer to enter the water from the calm beach of the small saltwater pool. Upon exiting the tunnel, the sea floor suddenly sinks to a depth of more than 35 metres, offering stunning underwater excursions for those who have the courage, skill and desire to explore the area from a different angle. Even the great Jacques-Yves Cousteau was particularly fond of this site as a diving spot. On the banks of the Inland Sea, there are no residential houses. It’s mostly just calm water, fishing nets left out to dry, some small sheds equipped with pergolas and some camp beds for the warmer months of the year, so it’s a very chilled out place. However, there is a restaurant-bar next to it that was always a popular stop for those who came to see the Azure Window (see ch. 3). From above, it’s possible to get a vague idea of the perimeter of the ancient collapsed cave, but it is only by looking at a satellite image of the area on Google Maps that you can truly grasp how massive it really was. 16
Address Dwejra, Gozo | Getting there Bus 311 to Dwejra | Tip On the coast, not far from the remains of the Azure Window, is the Fungus Rock, which owes its name to a vegetable species which grows only on this rock, and which, according to the Knights Hospitaller, had powerful medicinal properties.
GOZO / DWEJRA
4__ Inland Sea Boat trip in the tunnel Even when the wind is strong, the sea is rough and the waves are crashing on the rocks of the wild coast of Dwejra, there is a place where the small fishing boats never cease to sway gently on the water’s surface, heedless of the storm. I am referring to the small Inland Sea lagoon, which the Maltese call il-Qawra, and which used to be enclosed within a colossal sea cave. When the cavity’s vault collapsed due to a fracture in the rock, the small basin was exposed to the sun. Today a vertical wall embraces it on one side, while a beach gently slopes towards the water on the other, and there is a narrow tunnel in the wall that connects the Inland Sea to the open sea. This geological shaft is about 30 metres long, and when the waters are calm, it can be reached by fishermen and tourists by boat. In addition, the area is a popular spot for diving, but the divers often prefer to enter the water from the calm beach of the small saltwater pool. Upon exiting the tunnel, the sea floor suddenly sinks to a depth of more than 35 metres, offering stunning underwater excursions for those who have the courage, skill and desire to explore the area from a different angle. Even the great Jacques-Yves Cousteau was particularly fond of this site as a diving spot. On the banks of the Inland Sea, there are no residential houses. It’s mostly just calm water, fishing nets left out to dry, some small sheds equipped with pergolas and some camp beds for the warmer months of the year, so it’s a very chilled out place. However, there is a restaurant-bar next to it that was always a popular stop for those who came to see the Azure Window (see ch. 3). From above, it’s possible to get a vague idea of the perimeter of the ancient collapsed cave, but it is only by looking at a satellite image of the area on Google Maps that you can truly grasp how massive it really was. 16
Address Dwejra, Gozo | Getting there Bus 311 to Dwejra | Tip On the coast, not far from the remains of the Azure Window, is the Fungus Rock, which owes its name to a vegetable species which grows only on this rock, and which, according to the Knights Hospitaller, had powerful medicinal properties.
M A LTA / M D I N A
53__ Palazzo de Piro Memories of Mdina ‘the notable’ The history of Mdina, which in Arabic means ‘walled city’, is very different from that of Valletta. As the medieval capital of Malta, it was much admired by the noble Angevin, Aragonese and Castilian families who chose to build their palaces there. With the founding of Valletta, the Knights Hospitaller took control of the new capital and the Three Cities, and Mdina increasingly became the capital of the aristocracy; ‘a notable city,’ as Alfonso V of Aragon called it. Today, very few people live in the city’s historical centre. However, many large and small palaces still survive. They were once the property of the powerful families who dominated the archipelago, but now most of them have become public buildings. One of these is the former home of the Piro family, designed by the most famous lineage of 17th-century Maltese architects: the Cassar. But we don’t know if the father Girolamo or his son Vittorio was the designer. At the end of the 19th century, Alessandro de Piro and his wife, the Florentine noblewoman Orsola, settled there, along with their seven sons (one of whom is being considered for sainthood) and two daughters. Three buildings constituted the original nucleus, which was subsequently altered several times before becoming the seat of a college run by the strict St Dorothy nuns. The last of the changes to Palazzo de Piro began in 2005, when the Metropolitan Chapter of the Cathedral sponsored a wholesale restoration of the building that brought the complex back to its original baroque form. Today, the palace has become a bar-restaurant with ample space that is used for events, gala dinners and art exhibitions. Even if you are in a hurry, it is worth sitting down for a coffee at one of the tables overlooking the ancient wall. The view extends towards Valletta, who usurped the small and severe Mdina in the ranking for the title of noblest city in Malta. 114
Address Triq Is Sur, Mdina, Malta, www.palazzodepiro.com | Getting there Bus 50, 51, 52, 53, 56, 109, 181, 182, 186, 201 or 202 to Ir-Rabat | Hours Mon – Thu 9.30am – 5pm, Fri & Sat 9.30am – 10pm, Sun 9.30am – 5.30pm | Tip The Cathedral Museum is close by and definitely worth a visit for those who enjoy art and coin collections.
M A LTA / M D I N A
53__ Palazzo de Piro Memories of Mdina ‘the notable’ The history of Mdina, which in Arabic means ‘walled city’, is very different from that of Valletta. As the medieval capital of Malta, it was much admired by the noble Angevin, Aragonese and Castilian families who chose to build their palaces there. With the founding of Valletta, the Knights Hospitaller took control of the new capital and the Three Cities, and Mdina increasingly became the capital of the aristocracy; ‘a notable city,’ as Alfonso V of Aragon called it. Today, very few people live in the city’s historical centre. However, many large and small palaces still survive. They were once the property of the powerful families who dominated the archipelago, but now most of them have become public buildings. One of these is the former home of the Piro family, designed by the most famous lineage of 17th-century Maltese architects: the Cassar. But we don’t know if the father Girolamo or his son Vittorio was the designer. At the end of the 19th century, Alessandro de Piro and his wife, the Florentine noblewoman Orsola, settled there, along with their seven sons (one of whom is being considered for sainthood) and two daughters. Three buildings constituted the original nucleus, which was subsequently altered several times before becoming the seat of a college run by the strict St Dorothy nuns. The last of the changes to Palazzo de Piro began in 2005, when the Metropolitan Chapter of the Cathedral sponsored a wholesale restoration of the building that brought the complex back to its original baroque form. Today, the palace has become a bar-restaurant with ample space that is used for events, gala dinners and art exhibitions. Even if you are in a hurry, it is worth sitting down for a coffee at one of the tables overlooking the ancient wall. The view extends towards Valletta, who usurped the small and severe Mdina in the ranking for the title of noblest city in Malta. 114
Address Triq Is Sur, Mdina, Malta, www.palazzodepiro.com | Getting there Bus 50, 51, 52, 53, 56, 109, 181, 182, 186, 201 or 202 to Ir-Rabat | Hours Mon – Thu 9.30am – 5pm, Fri & Sat 9.30am – 10pm, Sun 9.30am – 5.30pm | Tip The Cathedral Museum is close by and definitely worth a visit for those who enjoy art and coin collections.
M A LTA / M D I N A
54__ Palazzo Falson The 10 hours of revolution One of the oldest and most fascinating structures in the ancient heart of Mdina is that of Palazzo Falson, the 14th-century home of the wealthy Falson family. For years it was known as the Norman House, the name given to it by its last owner, the art collector Olof Frederick Gollcher, who mistakenly thought the building had been made by the Normans of Sicily. The property is accessed through a beautiful secluded courtyard with a gurgling fountain, and the owner’s old collections of paintings, pipes, historic objects and other works of art, as well as the beautiful dark-wood library, are definitely worth seeing. Of all the objects on display, however, one deserves particular attention. On the first floor, inside a precious showcase, is a rather strange watch, which instead of the normal 12-hour dial only has 10 numbers. This is not a mistake but the result of a decision taken on the first Vendémiaire (first month in the French Republican Calendar) of the third year of the French Republic (5 October, 1793). In an effort to simplify and rationalise the dozens of traditional units of measurement, the flow of time came under scrutiny. The decision was made that ‘each day, from midnight to midnight, is divided into ten parts, each part into ten others, and so on to the least measureable portion of time. The hundredth part of the hour is called decimal minute; the hundredth part of a minute is called second decimal.’ Following this decision, ostensibly aimed at facilitating the calculations of scientists in all fields, watchmakers began making their instruments accordingly, until the 7th of April, 1795, when the decimal calendar ceased to be the French Republic’s official method for calculating time. The method was officially abolished by Napoleon in 1806, and all French workers rejoiced at no longer having weeks that consisted of nine work days and one day of rest. 116
Address Triq il-Villegaignon, Mdina, Malta, +356 21 454 512, www.palazzofalson.com | Getting there A few metres from the Mdina Gate; bus 50, 51, 52, 53, 56, 109, 181, 182, 186, 201 or 202 to Ir-Rabat | Hours Tue – Sun 10am – 5pm | Tip In the cloister of Palazzo Costanzo on Triq il Villegaignon Street is a pleasant and peaceful café. While you’re there, you can also visit the palace’s ancient rooms.
M A LTA / M D I N A
54__ Palazzo Falson The 10 hours of revolution One of the oldest and most fascinating structures in the ancient heart of Mdina is that of Palazzo Falson, the 14th-century home of the wealthy Falson family. For years it was known as the Norman House, the name given to it by its last owner, the art collector Olof Frederick Gollcher, who mistakenly thought the building had been made by the Normans of Sicily. The property is accessed through a beautiful secluded courtyard with a gurgling fountain, and the owner’s old collections of paintings, pipes, historic objects and other works of art, as well as the beautiful dark-wood library, are definitely worth seeing. Of all the objects on display, however, one deserves particular attention. On the first floor, inside a precious showcase, is a rather strange watch, which instead of the normal 12-hour dial only has 10 numbers. This is not a mistake but the result of a decision taken on the first Vendémiaire (first month in the French Republican Calendar) of the third year of the French Republic (5 October, 1793). In an effort to simplify and rationalise the dozens of traditional units of measurement, the flow of time came under scrutiny. The decision was made that ‘each day, from midnight to midnight, is divided into ten parts, each part into ten others, and so on to the least measureable portion of time. The hundredth part of the hour is called decimal minute; the hundredth part of a minute is called second decimal.’ Following this decision, ostensibly aimed at facilitating the calculations of scientists in all fields, watchmakers began making their instruments accordingly, until the 7th of April, 1795, when the decimal calendar ceased to be the French Republic’s official method for calculating time. The method was officially abolished by Napoleon in 1806, and all French workers rejoiced at no longer having weeks that consisted of nine work days and one day of rest. 116
Address Triq il-Villegaignon, Mdina, Malta, +356 21 454 512, www.palazzofalson.com | Getting there A few metres from the Mdina Gate; bus 50, 51, 52, 53, 56, 109, 181, 182, 186, 201 or 202 to Ir-Rabat | Hours Tue – Sun 10am – 5pm | Tip In the cloister of Palazzo Costanzo on Triq il Villegaignon Street is a pleasant and peaceful café. While you’re there, you can also visit the palace’s ancient rooms.
M A LTA / M D I N A
55__ Palazzo Gatto Murina Stone moray eels Fierce moray eels and tasty golden loaves, along with crowns, dragons and feathered armours; these heralds of the noble families of medieval Europe offer us a picturesque window into a distant and fantastic era. Before the Knights Hospitaller’s arrival in Malta, the island played an important role in the medieval history of the Mediterranean. The presence of many noble families in Mdina, the fortified capital that would later be replaced by Valletta during the 16th century, dates back to this period. The city centre still boasts many ancient buildings, featuring mullioned windows and inscriptions, decorations and coats of arms belonging to the rich families who came to the archipelago to pursue their fortune and obtained fiefs and estates. Triq Mesquita, which connects the square with St Peter’s Convent, is dedicated to the Portuguese Knight who commanded the cavalry of the Order during the Great Siege and who came up with the idea of hanging an Ottoman prisoner every day on the top of the walls to terrorise the assailants. Near the corner of Triq Villegaignon, Triq Gatto Murina runs alongside an early 14th-century building, decorated with two mullioned windows with Sicilian-Norman-style columns. If you look carefully through the gate of the adjacent courtyard, you will notice a coat of arms on the façade made up of a series of balls placed in a sort of triangle and three winding lines of light stone. It is the coat of arms of the Gatto Murina family. The symbols on the left represent moray eels (‘Murina’ comes from the Latin word for moray eel, ‘murena’) while the circular objects are, apparently, ten golden loaves in a blue field – the Gatto family’s symbol. Guglielmo Murina arrived in Malta in 1372 as a captain nominated by Frederick III, and his family had close ties to the Gatto family, who were very powerful in Mdina and in the surrounding countryside. 118
Address Triq Gatto Murina, Mdina, Malta | Getting there A few metres away from the Mdina Gate; bus 50, 51, 52, 53, 56, 109, 181, 182, 186, 201 or 202 to Ir-Rabat | Tip From the tree-lined open space of Pjazza tas-Sur (Bastion Square), you can climb to the walkway on the walls, which offers a splendid panorama.
M A LTA / M D I N A
55__ Palazzo Gatto Murina Stone moray eels Fierce moray eels and tasty golden loaves, along with crowns, dragons and feathered armours; these heralds of the noble families of medieval Europe offer us a picturesque window into a distant and fantastic era. Before the Knights Hospitaller’s arrival in Malta, the island played an important role in the medieval history of the Mediterranean. The presence of many noble families in Mdina, the fortified capital that would later be replaced by Valletta during the 16th century, dates back to this period. The city centre still boasts many ancient buildings, featuring mullioned windows and inscriptions, decorations and coats of arms belonging to the rich families who came to the archipelago to pursue their fortune and obtained fiefs and estates. Triq Mesquita, which connects the square with St Peter’s Convent, is dedicated to the Portuguese Knight who commanded the cavalry of the Order during the Great Siege and who came up with the idea of hanging an Ottoman prisoner every day on the top of the walls to terrorise the assailants. Near the corner of Triq Villegaignon, Triq Gatto Murina runs alongside an early 14th-century building, decorated with two mullioned windows with Sicilian-Norman-style columns. If you look carefully through the gate of the adjacent courtyard, you will notice a coat of arms on the façade made up of a series of balls placed in a sort of triangle and three winding lines of light stone. It is the coat of arms of the Gatto Murina family. The symbols on the left represent moray eels (‘Murina’ comes from the Latin word for moray eel, ‘murena’) while the circular objects are, apparently, ten golden loaves in a blue field – the Gatto family’s symbol. Guglielmo Murina arrived in Malta in 1372 as a captain nominated by Frederick III, and his family had close ties to the Gatto family, who were very powerful in Mdina and in the surrounding countryside. 118
Address Triq Gatto Murina, Mdina, Malta | Getting there A few metres away from the Mdina Gate; bus 50, 51, 52, 53, 56, 109, 181, 182, 186, 201 or 202 to Ir-Rabat | Tip From the tree-lined open space of Pjazza tas-Sur (Bastion Square), you can climb to the walkway on the walls, which offers a splendid panorama.
M A L T A / M E L L I E Ħ A
56__ Il-Madonna tal-Aħrax Virgin Mary with a view The view from the north-western tip of the rocky Marfa Peninsula is simply breathtaking. From the top of the cliffs you can see St Paul’s Island (the site of Saint Paul’s shipwreck) and the promenades of Buġibba and Qawra in the background. To the north, the Mediterranean is criss-crossed by colossal cruise and cargo ships going about their business. While to the east, the peninsula slopes towards the coast overlooking Gozo and Comino, with its coves and beaches beloved by tourists and the Maltese alike. Placed upon a simple blue base and perfectly attuned to the blue of the sea and sky that dominates the landscape, the small statue of Our Lady of Tal-Aħrax marks the tallest and most panoramic spot. Also, very close by, a small chapel was built by fishermen in honour of the Virgin Mary, who they believe saved them during a shipwreck. Due to the progressive erosion of the cliff, however, the little church was recently reconstructed, faithful to the original but about 20 metres away from the edge. From up here, the sea appears distant and inaccessible. The vertical rocks, which plunge into the sea, are home to a colony of unique birds, who now enjoy special protection thanks to the nature-reserve status assigned to the area. In the months of February and July, before they head off for their migration over the Black Sea, at least 500 pairs of Mediterranean shearwaters (Puffinus yelkouan) can be seen. They are well known to local sailors for their sharp shrill (reminiscent of a newborn’s first cry and the inspiration for many legends) and because they often follow the boats as they pull in their nets. Given their predilection for tranquillity and solitude, it’s not surprising that the Mediterranean shearwaters have chosen the secluded islands and coasts of Tavolara, Montecristo, Capraia, Lampedusa and, of course, Malta as their colonies of choice. 120
Address Rdum tal-Madonna, Mellieħa, Malta | Getting there Bus 41, 42, 101, 221 or 222 to Qammieħ, then a short walk | Tip A short distance from the cliff is Armier Bay: a small bay with a grey sandy beach and a few restaurants along the jagged coast that look out onto Comino and Gozo.
M A L T A / M E L L I E Ħ A
56__ Il-Madonna tal-Aħrax Virgin Mary with a view The view from the north-western tip of the rocky Marfa Peninsula is simply breathtaking. From the top of the cliffs you can see St Paul’s Island (the site of Saint Paul’s shipwreck) and the promenades of Buġibba and Qawra in the background. To the north, the Mediterranean is criss-crossed by colossal cruise and cargo ships going about their business. While to the east, the peninsula slopes towards the coast overlooking Gozo and Comino, with its coves and beaches beloved by tourists and the Maltese alike. Placed upon a simple blue base and perfectly attuned to the blue of the sea and sky that dominates the landscape, the small statue of Our Lady of Tal-Aħrax marks the tallest and most panoramic spot. Also, very close by, a small chapel was built by fishermen in honour of the Virgin Mary, who they believe saved them during a shipwreck. Due to the progressive erosion of the cliff, however, the little church was recently reconstructed, faithful to the original but about 20 metres away from the edge. From up here, the sea appears distant and inaccessible. The vertical rocks, which plunge into the sea, are home to a colony of unique birds, who now enjoy special protection thanks to the nature-reserve status assigned to the area. In the months of February and July, before they head off for their migration over the Black Sea, at least 500 pairs of Mediterranean shearwaters (Puffinus yelkouan) can be seen. They are well known to local sailors for their sharp shrill (reminiscent of a newborn’s first cry and the inspiration for many legends) and because they often follow the boats as they pull in their nets. Given their predilection for tranquillity and solitude, it’s not surprising that the Mediterranean shearwaters have chosen the secluded islands and coasts of Tavolara, Montecristo, Capraia, Lampedusa and, of course, Malta as their colonies of choice. 120
Address Rdum tal-Madonna, Mellieħa, Malta | Getting there Bus 41, 42, 101, 221 or 222 to Qammieħ, then a short walk | Tip A short distance from the cliff is Armier Bay: a small bay with a grey sandy beach and a few restaurants along the jagged coast that look out onto Comino and Gozo.
Acknowledgements A volume of this kind can only be the result of teamwork.Even though the responsibility for the choice of the places and their description falls on the author, this book would never have been written without the advice and help of many people.Therefore, I would like to thank Rome’s and Valletta’s Malta Tourism Authorities for their help and support; and Ana de Barro, Anna Zammit and Audrey Marie Bartolo for the days spent together exploring Malta, Comino and Gozo.For their precious ideas and suggestions, I thank Federica Brunini and Manolo Mantovani. For their courtesy, I thank the curators and staff of the museums and galleries, and all of the restaurant managers, entrepreneurs, bakers, hikers and shopkeepers I met during my long and intense Maltese days.For its co-operation, a dutiful thank you goes to Air Malta.Finally, thanks to Alessandro de Martino for his fundamental help in assembling the information and producing the images that accompany this book.
The Author Fabrizio Ardito is a freelance journalist and photographer. He writes about travel and nature for various newspapers and publishing houses, including the Italian Touring Club. He has published dozens of books and guides, and his passions include the subterranean world and both Italian and foreign historical paths. With Emons he has published the guide 111 luoghi dell’Umbria che devi proprio scoprire.