If you’ve traveled by train through Union Station, you have likely walked past the larger-than-life bronze sculpture honoring civil rights activist A. (Asa) Philip Randolph (1889 – 1979).
The Pullman Palace Car Company, founded in 1867 by Chicago businessman George Pullman, built and operated luxurious railroad sleeping cars for wealthy white travelers and provided free Black men employment opportunities. More than 20,000 Black men worked as porters at the height of luxury rail travel in the 1920s.
The excellent service the Pullman porters provided was integral to the success of the passenger railroad industry. Still, they worked 400 hours or 11,000 miles per month, whichever came first, during 20-hour shifts and with only three to four hours of sleep in between before they received their pay. They regularly endured discrimination and harassment in exchange for very low wages.
The Pullman Porters urged Randolph, a well-known socialist and publisher of the magazine The Messenger, to become their group’s president. Randolph agreed and founded the nation’s first major Black labor union, the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters (BSCP) in 1925, which later included maids. BSCP eventually won a collective bargaining agreement with Pullman that recognized the union and improved worker pay and conditions.
Randolph’s achievements also include convincing President Franklin D. Roosevelt to end discrimination in the nation’s defense industries and helping to persuade President Harry Truman to desegregate the US Armed Forces. In 1963, with Randolph planning a march for jobs and the Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr and his Southern Christian Leadership Conference (SCLC) planning one for freedom, the two groups merged their efforts into one mass protest. An estimated 250,000 people attended the 1963 March on Washington for Jobs and Freedom at the Lincoln Memorial.
Address Union Station, 50 Massachusetts Avenue NE, Washington, DC 20002 | Getting there Metro to Union Station (Red Line); bus 96, D 6, X 8 to Union Station; DC Circulator to Union Station (National Mall Line) | Hours Unrestricted | Tip In the Union Market food hall, go eat at Puddin’, known for their New Orleans-style cuisine, including shrimp ’n grits, gumbo, and Brown Bourbon Butter Bread Puddin’ (1309 5th Street NE, www.dcpuddin.com).
Alma Thomas Home
A place of inspiration for 70 years
Alma Woodsey Thomas (1891 – 1978) was the first Black woman to have her artwork added to the permanent art collection in the White House. Former President and First Lady Barack and Michelle Obama added Thomas’ Resurrection, a brightly colored abstract painting completed in 1966, to the Family Dining Room.
Thomas was born in Columbus, Georgia. Her parents moved the family to Washington, DC in 1907 to escape racial violence in the South and to have access to better schools in DC’s Shaw neighborhood, a center for Black education. The art classes she was able to take in school had a profound impact on her life. Thomas once said, “When I entered the art room, it was like entering heaven... the Armstrong High School laid the foundation for my life.”
In 1924, Thomas was the first graduate of Howard University’s newly formed Art Department. It is widely held that she was the first Black woman in the country to receive a degree in fine arts. From 1925 to 1960, Thomas taught at Shaw Junior High School, while continuing her painting and studies. She studied at American University and earned a master’s degree in art from Columbia University in the early 1930s.
Thomas is remembered for her impact on the art world. In 1972, at the age of 81, she became the first Black woman to have a solo show at the Whitney Museum in New York City, one of the most renowned art museums in the world. In an interview with The New York Times, Thomas recalled the fact that Black Americans had no access to cultural institutions when she lived in Columbus as a child. “One of the things we couldn’t do was go into museums, let alone think of hanging our pictures there,” she said. “My, times have changed. Just look at me now.”
Thomas is significant not only for her artistic contributions, but also for her dedication to educating and introducing both young and adult African Americans to the world of art.
Address 1530 15th Street NW, Washington, DC 20005, www.historicsites.dcpreservation.org |
Getting there Metro to McPherson Square (Blue, Orange, Silver Lines), then walk 12 minutes; bus S2 to 16th & Q Streets NW; DC Circulator to 14th Street & Rhode Island Avenue NW (Woodley Park Metro Line) | Hours Unrestricted from the outside only | Tip Georgia Johnson Douglas was the author of four books of poems, six plays, and 32 song lyrics, making her the best-published woman author of the Harlem Renaissance. Now a private home with a historic marker, her house was the site of the “Saturday Nighters,” a literary salon Johnson hosted from the 1920s into the 1940s (1461 S Street NW, historicsites.dcpreservation.org).
Banneker Ballroom Dance Club
Dancing is a shortcut to happiness
“Ballroom dance” is an umbrella term to describe partner dances such as the waltz, rhumba, foxtrot, tango, and swing, as well as DC hand dance, DC’s official dance derived from the Lindy Hop which was created by Black dancers during the Harlem Renaissance during the 1920s and 1930s.
The first classes of the Banneker Ballroom Dance Club (BBDC) were held in the 1940s at the Banneker Recreation Center, a popular recreational spot in the city for African Americans in a time of segregation. According to the BBDC website, the classes included not only instruction in proper dance technique, but also on proper dress, etiquette, and deportment. Every man attending a Banneker dance class had to wear a necktie.
The club held its first banquet at Waters’ Catering Service in Rockville, Maryland. About 29 elegantly attired attendees brightened the evening. This event started a tradition of galas with over 250 attendees and dance exhibitions that continue around the DC area today. Classes today are “come as you are.” It is important to wear comfortable clothing and shoes with leather soles or dance sneakers that allow you to move and turn easily. All are welcome to attend classes, and you don’t need to bring a partner. Women and men learn dance steps separately and are then partnered so that they learn how to dance with partners. It’s great fun, and people do “dress to impress” for social dances and galas.
Ballroom Club president Brenda Manley says, “The elegance of ballroom is a dance form we strive to keep healthy and alive within the African American community. Through professional instruction, affordability, and energetic organization the vibrance and tradition of ballroom continues to be a gem of Washington, DC dance culture.”
Address 6310 Chillum Place NW, Washington, DC 20011, www.bannekerballroomdance.com, +1 (202) 256-7218, banneker_info@bannekerballroomdance.com | Getting there Metro to Takoma (Red Line), transfer to bus F1 to Eastern Avenue & N Capitol Street NE | Hours Check website for class schedule | Tip Be a part of the health movement at Turning Natural, which features juices, cleanses, smoothies and food. No artificial coloring, no ice, no syrups, no flavorings, no sugar – just the good stuff... and love (6833 4th Street NW, www.turningnatural.com).
Button Farm
Oprah’s training ground
Tony Cohen is founder and director of the Menare Foundation that works to preserve the legacy of the Underground Railroad (UGRR). He’s a historian and the visionary behind the Button Farm Living History Center, Maryland’s only venue that depicts 19th-century plantation life. “Visitors get a sensory experience of plantation life and the story of the Underground Railroad through our guided tours of the farm and the landscape of the 6,000-acre park in which we operate,” explains Cohen.
Button Farm was not a part of the UGRR, but you will learn about life during the 1800s and experiences on the “freedom train.” Cohen knows that history better than most. In 1996, he embarked on a 1,200mile journey from Maryland to Canada to recreate the path of the self-liberators. “I walked 8 weeks, 10 – 25 miles per day and only used the methods used at the time. So, by foot mainly, but also in places by boat or train.” His experiences caught the attention of Oprah Winfrey, whom Cohen prepared for her role in the movie Beloved (1998) by creating an immersive UGRR experience at Button Farm in 1997.
The farm includes a late 19th-century barn, along with an heirloom garden growing the same kinds of crops that would be found in Montgomery County during the 1850s. You’ll also encounter American guinea hogs, thought to have been bred from hogs brought over in the late 18th century from West Africa. You’ll see implements that enslaved people used for farm work and view a burial ground for the enslaved.
Button Farm is open Spring through Fall, and all tours and experiences are outdoors. Cohen recommends that you make note of four special celebration days at the farm: Montgomery County Heritage days in June, the countywide farm tour in July, Tubman Day in September, and the Maryland Emancipation Day celebration held the last weekend in October.
Address 16820 Black Rock Road, Germantown, MD 20874, +1 (202) 903-4140, www.buttonfarm.org, info@buttonfarm.org | Getting there By car, take I-270 N to exit 15B, continue on MD-118 S/Germantown Road, and turn right onto Black Rock Road | Hours See website for seasonal hours and events | Tip Visit the Northampton Slave Quarters and Archeological Park in Prince George’s County, Maryland to see the rebuilt foundations of two slave quarters and learn about the lives of enslaved people who resided there (10915 Water Port Court, Bowie, MD, www.experienceprincegeorges.com).
DCity Smokehouse
DC-style BBQ
BBQ lovers know that enjoying the smoky flavors is often an experience best shared with family and friends, and it goes beyond the food. Melvin Hines, founder of Southeast Restaurant Group, understands barbecue and makes it easy for you to have that delicious experience without having to fire up your own smoker.
Hines founded DCity Smokehouse in 2013, giving DC BBQ its own distinctive style. “My main focus is consistency and wanting you to have the same experience, whether it’s today, next week or next year, and the team works to maintain that from day to day in the restaurant,” says Hines. “There is a distinct taste profile between a little bit of spice and a little bit of sweet that’s intentional.”
The menu includes smoked meats and poultry, sandwiches, and sides. Specialties include their bestselling smoked chicken wings and popular Meaty Palmer, a sandwich made with turkey breast, pork belly, avocado, tomato, and chipotle aioli. According to Hines, “The BBQ concept is all about time – 18 hours for the brisket, 6 hours for the wings. Low and slow is what we believe in.” Hines sees customers from South America, Asia, and different parts of the world, in addition to regular customers, who may stop by a couple of times a week. The joy for Hines is in watching people from diverse backgrounds enjoy the food.
The words WE SMOKE MEATS are emblazoned in red on the side of the patio, and a red pig statue welcomes all customers. You’d never know that you’re dining in a former 1940s television repair shop. Hines transformed it into a hub for community connections and great food. The space feels like a place that you want to sit a while, with big-screen TVs, an indoor / outdoor patio with red-covered picnic tables and benches, and indoor dining tables next to a full-service bar. A wall contains the menu, which is surrounded by posters and information related to local Black culture.
Address 203 Florida Avenue NW, Washington, DC 20001, +1 (202) 733-1919, www.dcitysmokehouse.com, dcitysmokehouse@gmail.com | Getting there Metro to Shaw (Green Line); bus 90, 92 to Florida Avenue & 2nd Street NW | Hours Sun – Thu 11am – 11pm, Fri & Sat 11am – midnight | Tip Less than a mile away is a set of street pole banners marking various events that took place in the NoMa neighborhood, including several at the former Uline Arena. Look for the banner featuring Earl Lloyd, the first Black athlete to play in an NBA game in 1950 (3rd Street NE, south side of M Street).
FishScale
Best of the Bay
The fish fry is a tradition at many Black family cookouts, especially during the summer months. The Northwest eatery FishScale cooks up a delicious and healthy re-interpretation of the fish fry that diners can enjoy all year round. The day-to-day operations of the organic farm-to-table and ocean-to-table restaurant are managed by co-owners Henry Brandon Williams, the executive chef, and his sister Kristal Williams, the director of operations.
Henry prepared his first-ever fish burger on the grill at a cookout. His mother had adopted a pescatarian lifestyle, and he wanted to ensure that she had something to eat amongst all the meat and poultry dishes on the menu. The fish burgers were such a hit, the story goes, that his mother had a hard time even getting her hands on one! Today, FishScale serves an all-fish burger, and they don’t add breadcrumbs or any other fillers.
The signature dishes here have an international flare, with American, Asian, and Caribbean flavors coming into play throughout the menu. The offerings include crab burgers, cheesesteaks, chef’s plates, and a version of fish n’ chips. You can order special accompaniments, including Japanese sweet potatoes, vegetarian collards, and sunflower yogurt coleslaw.
According to Chef Williams, “We source from local organic farmers and retailers, and source seafood, according to the Monterey Bay Seafood Watch standards, from local and US fishermen.” He is devoted to promoting human health and earth sustainability.
FishScale first debuted at the White House Farmer’s Market, and their current location in the Shaw neighborhood opened in 2017. The restaurant is great for carry-out and also has a small seating area if you prefer to dine in. FishScale also plays a role in their neighborhood, providing employment for underserved communities and partnering with several non-profit and student organizations.
Address 637 Florida Avenue NW, Washington, DC 20001, +1 (202) 780-7886, www.wearefishscale.com | Getting there Metro to Shaw-Howard U (Green Line); bus 90, 92, 96 to Florida Georgia Avenues NW | Hours Wed & Thu 11:30am – 7pm, Fri & Sat 11:30am – 8pm | Tip Horace & Dickies seafood carryout is a beloved DC institution. They were on H Street for more than 30 years, but you can now find their famous fried seafood and side dishes at their newest location in Takoma Park, DC (6912 4th Street NW, www.horaceanddickies.com).
Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial
A closer look
The Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial’s address at 1964 Independence Avenue SW references the 1964 Civil Rights Act. It is the only memorial on the National Mall that honors an American who was Black and a civilian. In his I Have A Dream speech from the March on Washington for Jobs and Freedom on August 28, 1963, Dr. King stated, “With this faith we will be able to hew out of the mountain of despair a stone of hope.” The monument depicts Dr. King carved into the Stone of Hope, with the Mountain of Despair behind him. From his 28-foot 6-inch high view, Dr. King gazes towards the horizon, concentrating on the future and his hopes for humanity.
James Simmons of the National Memorial Project Foundation revealed that upon close examination of the shrimp-pink granite used in the monument, you can see flecks of brown, black, white, and pink, a colorful mosaic mirroring the diversity of those who come to visit the memorial from around the globe. Third-generation stone carver Nicholas Benson created an original typeface called “King” to be used exclusively for this memorial in the quotes on the figure of King and along the north and south walls. When you enter the plaza from the street, look down to see the 10-inch medallion that covers a time capsule that is scheduled to be opened on August 28, 2061. Simmons explained that President Barack Obama, members of the King family, and special invitees placed items in the time capsule at the dedication.
Millions visit the Tidal Basin in springtime to view hundreds of cherry trees planted there, a gift of friendship to the United States from Japan in 1912. Additional trees were planted at the King Memorial as well. “The plaza comes alive each year during the blooming of the cherry blossoms, which is near the anniversary of Dr. King’s death on April 4, 1968,” says Simmons.
Address 1850 West Basin Drive SW, Washington, DC 20024, www.thememorialfoundation.org |
Getting there Metro to Smithsonian (Blue, Orange, Silver Lines); DC Circulator to Lincoln Memorial (National Mall Line) | Hours Unrestricted | Tip On the north lawn of the Department of Agriculture building, see a memorial marker at the base of a tree that was dedicated to Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. in 1983 (1400 Independence Avenue NW).
Rolloway Productions
Roll with a DC skating legend
If you fondly recall skating around a roller rink on classic skates, Rolloway Productions gives you the chance to relive that fun or to take classes and learn. Kenneth “Rollo’’ Davis, a professional quad skater for 40 years and an Apple-endorsed “skate legend,” founded Rolloway Productions LLC in 2014.
“Rolloway Productions and Rolloway Skate University are special due to our inspirational founder, our approach to the role of roller skating in the community, and our transmission of the DC skate style and culture. We focus on community, family, and relationships,” says Monica McNeal Boddie, Davis’ business partner.
Davis played the lead character in the family-centric movie Old School Rollers (2021) about connecting generations, which was released to great reviews. In a book about his story, The Life at the End of the Tunnel, Davis shares how roller skating transformed him from living in addiction to becoming a beloved and inspirational contributor to the Black community.
McNeal Boddie says that roller skating is for everyone “from 3 to 73.” When you arrive for a lesson, an initial assessment will ensure that you end up in the right class. If you’re a beginner, you’ll work on safety and stability while learning how to skate forward and backward, plus basic turns and transitions. You’ll also learn how to fall and get back up safely. Intermediate skaters build on skate skills and discover their style through drills and other techniques. Advanced skaters take their talents to the next level with seasoned instruction and workshop opportunities, especially featuring Snapping, which is the skate style of Washington, DC.
Rolloway Productions host skating events with live DJs or specialty playlists, like gospel music. Skate rentals are available for a nominal fee, and skating is open to the public on designated days. You can also book the rink for private events.
Address Sk8Matrix, 3132 Branch Avenue, Temple Hills, MD 20746, www.instagram.com/ sk8matrix, www.facebook.com/rollowayproductionsllc | Getting there Metro to Naylor Road (Green Line); bus F14 to Naylor Road | Hours Classes: Sat 9:45 – 11:45am; check their social media for public skating hours and events | Tip The National Park Service oversees over 400 sites nationwide, and the Anacostia Skating Pavilion is the only skating rink in the system and the last one inside the District of Columbia (1500 Anacostia Drive SE, www.nps.gov).
Sweat DC
Church for weights
Sweat DC is a fitness studio where you can walk in with confidence, even if you’ve never lifted a weight in your life. Owner Gerard Burley, also known as “Coach G,” has a master’s degree in sports and exercise and once played professional basketball in Italy. Burley believes that fitness should be fun, and so he founded Sweat based on a strong principle: Come as you are. He aims to encourage and inspire people to become better versions of themselves from the inside out through hard work and determination.
Burley and his team of coaches know that walking into a gym can be intimidating. “I grew up as a gay, Black boy in West Baltimore, so I know what it feels like to not feel included in the world,” says Burley. “And I also know what it feels like to feel empowered through fitness.” He always had an interest in sports, but at the age of 18, his mother passed away, and he turned to fitness to channel his emotions and help him deal with the tremendous loss. “Sometimes when we face hardship, we find different meanings in different sanctuaries,” says Burley. He sometimes refers to Sweat DC as “church for weights.”
The one-room studio is filled with weights, mats, and equipment. During the coach-led classes, the lights are low, and colored lighting creates a nightclub feel, while a variety of musical genres play over the sound system. Videos with people demonstrating proper form play on monitors hung high on the walls. The visuals help everyone to stay mindful, and so anyone who is hard of hearing can watch the videos and feel the vibration of the music. “It’s strength-based, group personal training,” says Burley. “The workouts are not random. They’re based on a science-backed program that changes each month, and we are looking at how you get better each month.” Burley wants students to have a fun, challenging and empowering experience, and he looks forward to expanding the business.
Address 3325 Georgia Avenue NW, Washington, DC 20010, +1 (202) 780-5286, www.sweatdc.com, info@sweatdc.com | Getting there Metro to Georgia Avenue-Petworth (Green Line); bus 70 to Georgia Avenue & Lamont Street NW | Hours Mon – Fri 6am – 7pm, Sat & Sun 8:30am – 11:30am | Tip Sidebarre is a high intensity, low impact, full-body workout to build and tone in DC. No dance experience is required, but all instructors are technically trained in ballet and fully aware of how the body moves (3400 14th Street NW, www.sidebarredc.com).
Washington Commanders
Catch the spirit at FedexField
2023 was a good year for the Washington Commanders. Fans were excited and energized by the National Football League (NFL) franchise’s first new management team in 24 years, led by Josh Harris. NBA legend and hall of famer Magic Johnson is a new co-owner.
That same year, Jennifer King entered her third full season coaching in the NFL for the Commanders, and her third season as their assistant running backs coach after she was promoted to the role following the 2020 season. With the promotion, King became the first Black woman to hold a full-time position as a coach in NFL history.
Prior to coming to Washington, DC, King coached in the Alliance of American Football, and in the college ranks, and she also has experience as a player. From 2006-17 – seven seasons – King was an all-American quarterback and wide receiver for the Carolina Phoenix women’s tackle football team.
Enjoy a day out at a Commanders home game at FedexField in Landover, MD, about five miles east of DC. The open-air stadium has five levels and seats about 60,000 spectators – with plenty of parking. One of the features at the stadium is the result of their “Command the Canvas’’ art initiative. Fifteen local artists from DC, MD and VA were selected from hundreds of applicants to create artwork that celebrates life in the area, the team history, and the excitement surrounding the inaugural season of the Washington Commanders.
King is enjoying DC. “I love DC. The culture and diversity make it a really fun city. I’m a history nerd, so I love the museums. The steps of the Lincoln Memorial are so peaceful at nighttime and have become a random go-to for me,” she says. “You can’t talk DC without talking food. I’ve been to so many great restaurants, but Stan’s and Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak and Stone Crab are two of my favorites,” says King.
Address 1600 Fedex Way, Landover, MD 20785, +1 (301) 276-6000, www.commanders.com | Getting there Metro to Morgan Boulevard (Blue, Silver Lines) | Hours Check website for game schedule | Tip Mamie “Peanut” Johnson was the first woman ever to pitch in baseball’s Negro Leagues and was a longtime resident of Washington, DC. A new green space named in her honor at a once busy intersection hosts pedestrian-friendly walkways and bicycle lanes (New York & Florida Avenues NE, avenue-intersection.ddot.dc.gov).
Lauri Williamson is a licensed tour guide and entrepreneur. She grew up in New Jersey, moved to Washington to attend Howard University and fell in love with the city. She enjoys creating experiences that both educate and enlighten visitors to DC.
David Wardrick, Digital Storyteller, is a lifelong resident of the Washington, DC region, where he focuses on visual media production. He is an awardwinning photographer and videographer with four decades of production experience. David’s work has been featured in USA Today, NASA-TV, multiple books, magazines, and across social media. He has a passion for the history of the nation’s capital.
The information in this book was accurate at the time of publication, but it can change at any time. Please confirm the details for the places you’re planning to visit before you head out on your adventures.
