Issuu

magazine SUMMER 2023/24

the unofficial guide to the national park

Hunting and Gathering

WHAT’S THE BEST PART OF THE ABEL TASMAN? local recipes • guide to Nelson eats

SPOTLIGHT ON:

PELORUS BRIDGE AND TŌTARANUI 1

Tasman Bay sunrise.

magazine SUMMER 2023/24

CONTENTS the unofficial guide to the national park

EDITOR’S INTRODUCTION................................................................................. 2

FEATURES

WHAT’S THE BEST PART OF THE ABEL TASMAN?................................ 4 OUR PLEDGE TO THE FUTURE..................................................................... 12 POU AT BARK BAY: TE TANA PUKEKŌHATU.........................................16 GUIDING THE GUIDES....................................................................................... 18 HUNTING AND GATHERING........................................................................... 20

TRAVEL

CYCLING FEATURE............................................................................................. 28 SPOTLIGHT ON: PELORUS BRIDGE............................................................. 32 (EVEN FURTHER) OFF THE LEASH............................................................. 36 SPOTLIGHT ON: TŌTARANUI..........................................................................40

FOOD

A GUIDE TO NELSON EATS.............................................................................46 TE TAUIHU RECIPES.......................................................................................... 54 WORTH THE DRIVE........................................................................................... 56 GET ME A COFFEE NOW, OR LOSE ME FOREVER!............................. 60 THE PIE GUIDE TO NELSON TASMAN....................................................... 62

ENTERTAINMENT

TIM WRAIGHT SCULPTS A LEGACY IN MĀRAHAU............................. 66 KAIWHAKARUAKI.............................................................................................. 70 CLAY ROOTS: NELSON’S POT DEALERS.................................................. 72 BIRD OF THE MOMENT.....................................................................................75

INFORMATION

10 FREE THINGS TO DO IN NELSON TASMAN...................................... 76 PACKING LIST AND MAP................................................................................. 78

Photography credits: Lightstyle Photography, Brodie Knox, Brendan Alborn, Chris Sharpe, Stan Mariette, Kerry Sunderland, Neat Places, Johny O’Donnell, Oliver Weber, nelsontasman.nz. Design and artwork: Mat Tait mattait@mattait.com. Contributors: Johny O’Donnell, Brendan Alborn, Glen Stringer, Greg Buckett, Te Runanga o Ngāti Rārua. Produced and published by: Alborn Enterprises Ltd, 8 Franklin Street, Marahau 7197, RD2 Motueka, New Zealand. Email: feedback@abeltasman.com Tel: 03 527 8559

EDITOR’S INTRODUCTION After what could charitably be described as a difficult couple of years for our business, it’s really good to be here and to still be able to write ‘self employed’ in the occupation panel on forms requiring such details. It’s also rather wonderful to be able to welcome you to the fourth edition of the Abel Tasman Magazine.

he summer tourist season of 2022/23 did a lot to improve both my outlook for the future of our business and my sense of humour. Thinking back to September 2022 when I was writing my last editorial, I really had no clue what the upcoming summer season would bring. We had just been through a couple of lean years. In the first ‘COVID-year’ of 2020/21, Kiwis had travelled domestically and filled in at least a portion of the gaps left by the absence of international tourists. It wasn’t until the second season after the pandemic, 2021/22, that the full impact of the ‘new normal’ upon our business was fully realised. If you cast your mind back, the spring of 2021 was the time when every place from Auckland north spent months at Level 4 lockdown while the rest of the country remained at Level 3. This meant our potential market in pre-COVID 2019 went from the entire world before it was reduced to the population of New Zealand in 2020, and then in 2021 shrunk to become the tiny portion of our population in which customers could drive to Mārahau in a couple hours. In total numbers the reduction in our potential market went from 7.8 billion, to 5 million, to 200,000 people. This all meant that as I was sitting here writing my editorial in the spring of 2022, I had no idea what the summer season would bring. While our borders had reopened, would we see the return of international visitors? Then in October 2022, things started to feel a bit like the old days when some people with different accents to my own started to appear in our booking office and on our trips. It was all I could do NOT to approach and hug every international visitor to thank them personally for coming to New Zealand and using our services. While our numbers did not get back to pre-COVID levels we were back to having a viable business again. Phew! As you’ll be able to read further on in this magazine, we have not slowed down on our journey towards a net zero environmental impact. We have continued

to do everything we can think of in order to decrease our carbon footprint and have then measured and offset the balance of that carbon footprint. We have also helped set up the Mārahau Pledge to make a meaningful contribution to the sustainability and ecology of this place where we live and work. I’m rather proud to be able to say those things and I’m also full of optimism for the summer ahead. I hope you enjoy our magazine. We have a lot of fun putting it together each year. Brendan Alborn Owner Operator Alborn Enterprises Ltd.

Kia ora anō! It’s a real treat to be back writing for the Abel Tasman Magazine with my trusty co-pilot and friend Brendan Alborn. The development of the magazine is always an exciting and fun time for everyone involved – it signals the beginning of a new summer season for us and means we’re still here writing stories and celebrating this place which feels like good news after a really challenging few years.

want to start by acknowledging the generosity and all round awesomeness of the Alborn family. The first half of our first edition of this magazine was written at a time when the visitor sector was flying high and experiencing solid growth, our writing was rudely interrupted by a pandemic you may have heard about, then later resumed as we felt the project was more important than ever. We published the first magazine in what can only be considered rock bottom for the visitor sector here – borders closed, international visitors nowhere to be seen and a country dancing in and out of alert levels as we grappled with the new normal. The Alborns’ commitment to this magazine, to their business, to their people and to their sustainability goals was steadfast through the toughest of times. I often wish more business owners took the view of the Alborn family throughout the pandemic – they recognised the good times for what they were, battened down the hatches for some challenging storms and held true to their values even when they were being thoroughly tested. They’re testament to what makes this place and this sector so special.

You’ll see the return of locally inspired recipes, more authentic stories of this place and even a new feature called ‘Makers, Creators and Curators’ which is a partnership project supported by Nelson Regional Development Agency (NRDA) who wanted to shine a light on the region’s epic artists and artisans. Those who create, grow, curate and produce things of this place and for this place. The stories featured celebrated just a few of our local heroes in this space and I’m excited to share them with you. For now, park up with a glass of wine or a cup of coffee, take the time to read all the stories we’ve packaged together for you in this magazine. We hope you enjoy reading them as much as we enjoyed writing them. Ngā mihi mahana JOD Johny O’Donnell.

Fast forward to today, our fourth edition, and so much has changed. The resilience of the local visitor sector was affirmed and New Zealanders support for tourism was, I believe, massively strengthened through the pandemic. Whilst we all enjoyed not crawling behind campervans for a bit, the significant contribution that tourism makes to our economic, social and cultural wellbeing cannot be overstated. Once the borders opened, the return of visitors to the region was warmly welcomed and whilst talks of a “tourism reset” nationally hadn’t amounted to much, our local visitor sector had been busy getting on with the job and making it all happen on the ground. One of those stories, the Mārahau Pledge, is profiled again in this magazine as it continues to evolve as a force for more regenerative and resilient tourism for our beloved little village of Mārahau.

FEATURE

WHAT’S THE

BEST PART

OF THE ABEL TASMAN? Words: Brendan Alborn.

When trying to decide which trip to book, visitors will often ask our reservations teams to identify “the best part of the Abel Tasman”. This is a classic, “how long is a piece of string?” question to which there is simply no correct answer.

The Awaroa Inlet.

Even if the person being asked the question could magically read the visitor’s mind to ascertain exactly what that specific visitor liked in terms of activities, and the specific scenery they prefer, it would still be an impossible question to answer. A question just as silly as asking: “Was Richie McCaw or Dan Carter the better rugby player?”, “Who is the best guitar player in the world?” and “Which of your three children is your favourite?” For a start, I don’t think there is one dud place anywhere in the Abel Tasman National Park. Not one. So, instead of attempting the impossible, I am going to highlight some of my favourite places in the Park. I also will try to explain what it is that appeals to me about those specific locations.

THE REMOTE

NORTHERN END The coastline north of Tōtaranui is among the most rugged and remote in the Abel Tasman. As a commercial operator our DOC concessions stipulate that we cannot run scheduled water taxi services any further north than Tōtaranui which means the area is only accessible on foot, or in a private vessel. This limits the number of visitors up in that part of the Park, particularly north of Anapai, the first bay along the Abel Tasman Coast Track. All of the bays have more of a remote feel to them and even in the peak of summer, you may find you have one of those stunning beaches, like Mutton Cove, all to yourself. Separation Point, a rocky headland separating Tasman Bay from Golden Bay, is my favourite spot in the area. It is unlike any other place in the Park with high cliffs of Separation Granite and incredible views out to sea. There are seals at Sep Point and a gannet colony, but you would be well advised not to bother any of these local residents. A few years back a visitor discovered this fact in a rather painful way. Advised not to get too close to the seals the international visitor decided, instead, to swim out and see what they were up to. One of the local bull seals promptly bit the guy on the bum, letting him know under no uncertain terms who the apex predator was in his local patch. Whariwharangi, just to the north of Sep Point, is a rugged and beautiful beach, with the grassed campsite and a DOC hut a short distance inland. The hut was originally a homestead, rather than being a purpose-built tramper’s hut like the three huts located elsewhere along the Coast Track, so has its very own

old-world charm. The only issue with the Whariwharangi hut is that it’s haunted. So, if you’re craving an interaction with the supernatural, book yourself in for a night. I had always been told the hut had a haunted house vibe but that didn’t put me off booking my son and I in for a night about six years back when we tramped the Abel Tasman Inland Track from the Canaan roadhead. We got to the hut nice and early in the day so managed to nab the small bunk room on the ground floor all to ourselves. At around 2:30am I was awakened from the depths of the type of deep sleep that is only possible after a solid day of tramping, to a high pitched sound that would wake the dead. Finn must have been sleeping just as soundly as I was because he screamed like a banshee the very moment he regained semi-consciousness. With the bunk-room as black as the inside of a cow, I fumbled around until I finally located my headtorch. The smoke alarm in the room had gone off, despite there being no smoke and no fire. I removed the batteries, but with the amount of adrenaline that had just been dumped into my system, I only managed to get back to sleep 10 minutes before we needed to get up the next morning to walk through to Tōtaranui to catch our water taxi back to Mārahau. What set off the smoke alarm you’re wondering? Well, a ghost obviously. What else could it have been?

MOSQUITO BAY Mosquito Bay is another place only accessible by water, making it the perfect camping spot when you’re doing a multi-day kayaking trip. The campsite itself is rather wonderful and the bay has a rocky little islet in the middle which makes a lovely backdrop and also offers some protection from the sea breeze. The area up behind the beach has a freshwater creek with water that is the perfect temperature to cool your beer, or a nice bottle of Rosé. It’s one of our ‘go to’ campsites in the Park.

SHAG HARBOUR

ONETAHUTI Located between Awaroa and Bark Bay is a narrow, rocky opening that leads to a shallow tidal, bush-lined inlet. Unless you already knew it was there, you could easily miss it as you sped past it in a boat or were even paddling past in a kayak. Shag Harbour is only accessible in a kayak or in a small boat, so you won’t find any of the bigger ferry style water taxis in there. It’s a seal nursery so the curious seal pups will come up to investigate your arrival at certain times of the year, before they grow up and become more wary of strangers. They are clearly visible in the clear, shallow water of the inlet as they zoom around at amazing speeds.

There are three things I really like about Onetahuti. Firstly, the elevated view from the southern end of the beach, out along the long sweeping, crescent-shaped bay, is iconically Abel Tasman.

There is even a ponga fern at the top of the little hill that can be strategically placed into the foreground for a quintessential Abel Tasman photo. Secondly, Tonga Island sits prominently in the bay, and I just love looking out from a nice beach at an offshore island. It just screams ‘you live in a tropical paradise’ to me. And finally, there is a rather cool boarded walkway at the northern end of the bay above the wetland area. This allows walkers to get across this area in all tide conditions, rather than it being a crossing that is only doable in lower tide conditions, which is the way it was before the walkway was installed several years ago.

BARK BAY

ESTUARY During low tides you can walk directly across the estuary behind Bark Bay to the hut, campsite and the track north, but the hightide route is quite stunning, particularly when the tide is in.

in an ethereal glow of many shades of green. You also get a glimpse of the open ocean through the trees. The only spoiler alert I feel compelled to get out there is that when you are approaching the bridge from the north, via Bark Bay on your way through to Torrent Bay and Anchorage, the climb up to the ridgeline is brutal. I still have PSDtype flashbacks to the many times I ran up that hill of never-ending switchback corners as I was training for the annual Abel Tasman Coastal Classic trail over eight years ago.

The track winds itself around the estuary, across some small bridges with fresh water running into the estuary at various places. This area is also your best chance of spotting kākā because this is where Project Janszoon re-introduced these amazingly clever birds back into the Abel Tasman several years ago.

FALLS RIVER

SWINGBRIDGE The whole area around Falls River is particularly beautiful and by far the best way to take in the view down the river is from the elevated swingbridge.

Native bush lines the water’s edge so the greens reflected in Falls River are incredible, often bathing the whole area

TORRENT RIVER Similar to Bark Bay, there is a low tide route from Torrent Bay directly across to Anchorage that cuts straight across the Torrent Estuary. While it is the most time efficient way to get from one spot to another, the high tide route around the estuary and across the Torrent River is rather wonderful and you’re missing out if you don’t take the extra hour to take the long route. Parts of this trail are somewhat more rugged than other parts of the Coast Track but the views across the estuary are stunning and the side track up the Torrent River to Cleopatra’s Pool is well worth a visit. Stopping for a swim in the freshwater and doing at least one slide down the natural rock-slide is a must do. As I write this, the bridge across the Torrent River that was washed out in a weather event in the winter of 2022 is still missing so this means there the river needs to be crossed on foot. The river bed at the crossing point is covered with slippery rocks and it gets about waist deep during higher tides conditions, so that makes it challenging for anyone who doesn’t have a lot of experience with river crossings. However, if you’ve spent a lot of time in the New Zealand backcountry, I would rate it about a 2 out of 10 on the danger scale. DOC is aiming to have the bridge reinstalled by December 2023, so hopefully I’ve wasted my time with the warning! Below: Te Pukatea at sunrise.

PITT HEAD Pitt Head is located between Anchorage and Te Pukatea, accessible via a loop track that is a perfect short walk, particularly for families with small children or anyone who doesn’t fancy a longer walk. The whole area has been extensively trapped for predators by the Abel Tasman Birdsong Trust so features some of the best birdsong in the Park. The elevated views looking out from Pitt Head itself and also looking north, across the bay to Torrent Bay and back to Anchorage are stunning.

TE PUKATEA

Te Pukatea is your classic Abel Tasman-esqe bay; golden-sanded, crescent-shaped and with rocky headlands at either end. It’s off the main track but is well worth the little side trip if you are either staying at Anchorage or walking the Abel Tasman Coast Track. There is a viewing platform located a short climb up the track to the north of the beach which makes the perfect place for a photo. Te Pukatea is my favourite campsite in the entire Park. I try to make sure I get there early enough in the day to nab one of the spots for my tent right beside the beach so I can open my tent and to get the sunrise shining right at me.

ADELE ISLAND Firstly, if you are going to land on Adele Island then please, please make sure your vessel is rodent free. Adele is a predator-free offshore haven and it needs to stay that way for our native birds like the South Island saddleback/Tīeke to continue to thrive there. Adele is the larger of the two islands in the Astrolabe at the southern end of the Abel Tasman. During low tide conditions a wonderful sandspit forms on the inland/west side of Adele. There is a seal colony at the northern tip of the island, and nice little beaches on both the eastern and southern sides of the island. In late 2000 my now wife, Johnna, and I paddled from Mārahau to Adele Island to recce the sandspit as a potential location for our wedding ceremony due to take place in January the following year. The paddle out to the island, although not difficult, became quite contentious when I felt like I was doing 90% of the paddling while Johnna seemed to be simply relaxing in the front of our double kayak. I may have passed a comment about Johnna’s lack of paddling effort and obviously didn’t quite get my tone right because I was told that perhaps I should consider finding another fiancee if I was to comment any further. Anyway, we did make it to Adele still engaged and we decided the sandspit at Adele would form a perfect aisle. On our wedding day however, the weather

gods had different ideas. The ocean breeze came up so my Dad made the call to move the ceremony to Cyathea Cove, a more sheltered beach in the Astrolabe, and that location was equally wonderful.

THE ABEL TASMAN

INLAND TRACK

Almost every visitor to the Abel Tasman spends all of their time on the coast, and for very good reason. After all, the beaches and granite coastline are the features that make the Abel Tasman so special and different from New Zealand’s other national parks. As one of DOC’s Great Walks, the Coast Track must meet certain standards such as being 1.2m wide and graded in a way that makes it accessible to anybody with a halfway reasonable level of fitness. The Inland Track, by comparison, is a genuine backcountry tramping track. It’s a well-marked and well-formed track rather than the type of more difficult marked-trail you’ll find in our remote backcountry areas, but it will still raise a seasoned tramper’s heart rate and has tree roots and some steep-ish uphill sections to navigate. The huts are also genuine backcountry huts rather than the ones on the Coast Track, which again, must meet Great Walk standards. There are two wonderful, totally charming backcountry huts, Castle Rock and Awapoto and two shelters, Holyoake Clearing and Moa Park. I have tramped the Inland Track from Canaan

heading south through to Mārahau, staying at Castle Rock Hut, and another tramp also from Canaan but walking north, staying at Awapoto Hut before catching a water taxi from Tōtaranui back to Mārahau. I enjoyed both tramps immensely and would encourage anybody who wants a more challenging and remote tramp to give it a crack. It is only now that I have made this attempt to single out my favourite locations in the Abel Tasman that I have come to fully understand just how closely each of these places is linked to specific and very personal memories. Now that I think of it though, I guess that’s the point right? To truly “feel” a place you need to experience it for yourself and to create your own memories.

The Abel Tasman’s native bush is currently in the best condition it has been since it was inhabited by humans.

FEATURE

THE MĀRAHAU

PLEDGE OUR PLEDGE TO THE FUTURE Words: Johny O’Donnell.

THE MĀRAHAU PLEDGE This is our pledge to Mārahau. This is our pledge for the future. We commit to care for Mārahau, its surrounds and each other. To be aware of and take responsibility for our impact. To inspire protection through connection. To tread lightly and explore slowly. To regenerate our land, air, water and all living things. To give back to this place that gives so much to us. To care more and explore more. To be good ancestors.

In Mārahau, I think it’s true to say that we do small well. It’s a village of small baches, small pockets of people, small boats and small family-owned businesses that form the backbone of the local visitor sector. But in my (outrageously biased) view, the Mārahau Pledge is one giant leap for one small community and our small visitor sector.

irstly, let me get a shout out to Mārahau and it’s all round general awesomeness. My claim on Mārahau is that my dad worked and lived there for years, some of the best nights of my teenage years were spent at the Park Cafe and my little brother was half born in Mārahau (and eventually pulled out in Nelson under my appropriate supervision). It is one of those places that no matter how long you spend away, you feel right at home the moment you come around the bend and enter the village. Despite growth in its

popularity, Mārahau has never really changed in my view, it’s still got the same heart and same eclecticness that’s always made it special. It’s a place that has been desired and cherished by generations and is significant to mana whenua in the area to this day. Right, now back to the story, the Mārahau Pledge. What’s all the fuss about? Well, all of the Mārahau tourism activities operators have come together under this pledge, a forward-thinking and regenerative approach that gives back to Mārahau, the beginning of so many people’s (cont’d)

TE OATI MŌ MĀRAHAU Nei tō mātou oati ki a Mārahau Nei te oati mō anamata Ko Mārahau kei runga, kei raro, kei roto, kei waho. Tātou ki a tatou. Kia rongo, kia mōhio, kia mārama ki ō tātou tapuwae waro Kia whakaohoohotia te pare i te herenga tangata Kia āta tuhuratia. Kia tipu, kia rea ngā koha ō rātou mā. Kia taukohatia ngā hua o Mārahau. Kia tōmenetia i roto i te manaaki. Kia tika te tūāpapa mo āpōpō.

journey into our smallest yet most popular national park, the Abel Tasman. It’s an initiative that is still in its infancy but is really making waves...

For a bit of context, over the years, I’ve often found myself defending our local visitor industry from criticism, believing that many don’t see the earnest efforts of those working within the park and the incredible success story that is the regeneration of the Abel Tasman Park and its surrounds. So many people – iwi, community groups, businesses, government and so forth – have come together around a common purpose and vision to see the birdsong and thriving natural environment returned to the area.

Carbon Neutrality: Any experience from Mārahau is now certified zero-carbon. Collaborative Impact: By sharing knowledge on sustainability, we amplify the impact. Investing in Mārahau: A portion of your ticket price is redirected to boost biodiversity.

To further solidify this commitment and offer transparency to visitors, we introduced the Environmental Access Fee (EAF). Through this, visitors see a clear difference between the experience’s cost and their environmental contribution, reinforcing the pledge’s core ethos. The EAF is something that I’m proud to say all Abel Tasman experiences offer and it takes into account their contributions to the likes of the Department of Conservation and the Abel Tasman Birdsong Trust as well. I’m not aware of anywhere else in the country that has a visitor sector that operates in this way and it’s not a stretch to say it’s a best practice model for other regions. Every single tourism operator based out of Mārahau, be it water taxis, kayaking, canyoning, or walking guides, have unified their intentions under the Mārahau Pledge. The essence of this pledge is simple yet profound: To care for Mārahau, its surrounding environment, and its community, ensuring that every visitor has a net positive contribution to the community. It builds on the contributions that the visitor sector already makes to the region by focusing efforts and investment into the village that carries much of the weight of that visitation.

In 2019, the Alborn family, founders of this magazine and owners of a string of tourism ventures in Mārahau, steered their company AbelTasman.com, to achieve zero carbon certification with Ekos. A local firm, Ekos not only targets carbon sequestration but also focuses on improved biodiversity. This move was not a mere checkbox exercise. It pushed the business to introspect, measure, and then mitigate its carbon emissions. The Alborns were first movers in this space but certainly not the last. The cascade effect was palpable. Numerous operators in the region joined the zero-carbon mission. We saw the birth of the Nelson Tasman Zero-Carbon Itinerary, a journey offering zero-carbon experiences from dining to accommodation and rental cars, the first of its kind in New Zealand and possibly the world. Nelson Tasman now has the highest number of zero-carbon operators in the country. These initiatives crystallised two truths: an escalating demand for light footprint travel and the power of collective action. The Mārahau Pledge, a brainchild of these learnings, united all Mārahau activities operators under a singular umbrella. It started with a clear collective commitment, with three core tenets:

very single tourism operator based out of Mārahau... have unified their intentions under the Mārahau Pledge. For visitors embarking on their Abel Tasman journey from Mārahau, this means a guarantee of a zero-carbon experience. Regardless of which tourism operator they opt for, a slice of every ticket’s cost is directed towards projects aiming to improve biodiversity and access in Mārahau. And it’s not a competitive pitch, all the operators have joined forces to make it happen, testament to the strong community that underpins the sector here. One of things that defines the culture of operators in Mārahau for me is that they’re allergic to BS and want to ensure that what they’re doing is both honest and tangible. While so many businesses and communities are talking about caring for nature, the Mārahau Pledge businesses have

taken a decisive leap forward, committing to a business model that means every ticketed experience has a contribution to Mārahau built into it and the investment fund for biodiversity is constantly renewing as visitors stream in and out of Mārahau. A standout feature of this initiative is its collaborative nature. By fostering a system where businesses share vital knowledge, the pledge ensures that sustainability isn’t just an isolated effort but a shared goal. But the real gold in the initiative is the development of the locally-driven fund for biodiversity which will renew each year, as tourism bounces back post-pandemic, to ensure there is direct investment in an area where it is often overlooked.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Which businesses are involved?

Kahu Kayaks Abel Tasman Kayaks Mārahau Sea Kayaks R&R Kayaks Mārahau Water Taxis AquaTaxi Abel Tasman Canyoning Abel Tasman Eco Tours Abel Tasman Guides Abel Tasman Ocean View Chalets

standout feature of this initiative is its collaborative nature.

What is the Environmental Access Fee (EAF)?

Those funds are already flowing through to initiatives with the first project funded being the Mārahau Halo Project, a trapping and pest eradication project that focuses on Mārahau to complement the significant efforts occurring in the park itself. With the support from the Mārahau Pledge, the Halo Project were able to purchase and maintain an additional 50 traps along pest highways in Mārahau. This project, driven by local legends Jarred Bosecke and Chris Palzer, is an example of the types of community-led efforts that could do with a real boost through the pledge. And there are already many others in our sights including wetlands restoration and community infrastructure such as bike racks and picnic tables.

The EAF includes the compulsory concession fees paid to the Department of Conservation, as well as voluntary contributions to local organisations and projects to improve the environment, ecology and access to the national park.

Jarred and Chris also run Abel Tasman Ocean View Chalets where they have long been champions for sustainability. Ocean View Chalets have since come onboard with the Mārahau Pledge and become the first accommodation provider under the initiative, making a contribution from every guest night and providing a certified zero-carbon accommodation option. And if you want to experience the breathtaking views of Mārahau and wake up to the birdsong, the Ocean View Chalets really are the dream location, enveloped by native bush and perched on the hill overlooking the ocean (which may have been fairly obvious from the title, but anyway).

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If you’re visiting Mārahau, then we encourage you to check out the pledge yourself and lean into the environment we’re trying to create, afterall, it’s a team effort to make this work. While you’re here, travel slowly and tread lightly. Mārahau is the perfect place to soak up the surrounds and connect with the locals, so enjoy your time here and don’t rush it!

The Environmental Access Fee (EAF) is a portion of the ticket price that goes directly towards preserving the unique environment in Mārahau and the Abel Tasman National Park. You’ll see it as a separate line on your ticket. Students on school trips and conservation volunteers are not charged the EAF.

The EAF is made up of three parts

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The concession fee tourism operators pay the Department of Conservation to access the Park. DOC invests this money directly back into the Park. The ‘Birdsong Levy’ that tourism operators voluntarily contribute to the Abel Tasman Birdsong Trust The Mārahau Pledge fee which will go directly to projects that will benefit the environment and community of Mārahau

I’d like to suggest a project to be funded by the Mārahau Pledge, what do I do?

If you’ve got a project idea for the Mārahau Pledge email us johny@odandco.nz As a visitor to Mārahau and the Abel Tasman, what can I do to take care of the environment?

Anything you bring in with you, take out – this includes plastic, glass and food waste. Respect the plants and wildlife – the only thing from the Park you should be taking is photographs. Our native birds are not adapted to human food, so please don’t feed them, no matter how cute they are!

FEATURE

POU AT BARK BAY:

TE TANA PUKEKŌHATU Te Tana Pukekōhatu was a leading rangatira of Ngāti Rārua (Tainui Waka) and belonged to the Te Arawaere, Ngati Turangaapeke and Ngāti Paretona hapu. Originally from Waikawau (southern Waikato coast) he was one of a number of rangatira who over a 14-year period led certain Tainui and Taranaki iwi on a series of hekenga or migrations known collectively as Te Heke Mai i Raro, first arriving in Te Tauihu in the late 1820s. Conflict and fighting with the resident population ensued before eventually giving way to settlement and occupation by Te Tana and the hekenga people. During his time he held influence throughout Te Tauihu o te Waka-a-Maui living primarily between Wairau and Motueka for much of his adult life.

e Tana signed the Te Tiriti o Waitangi at Guards Bay, Port Underwood, 17 June 1840 and was present just three years later at the ill fated Wairau Affray at Tua Marino north of Blenheim, where 22 British settlers and four Māori lost their lives in armed conflict. He was a participant and signatory in the major land transactions for this rohe between the New Zealand Company and later the Crown. His wife was Te Waharau of Ngāti Rārua and Ngāti Kinohaku. They had three sons, Rore, Kerei and Hapareta, who in time were also rangatira of Ngāti Rārua as were his grandsons Hare and Hapareta. Both Te Tana and Te Waharau also known as Charley and Mary were well respected by both the Māori and Pākehā communities. He was appointed a Native Assessor in the province of Nelson, 1847 with this position ratified again in 1862. Te Tana and his descendants have a long association with the Wesleyan Church. He and Te Waharau are recorded as being married by the missionary Samuel Ironside at Ngakuta, Port Underwood in 1841. and in 1852 he was also baptised by Ironside whilst living in Motueka. Te Tana is remembered for a disagreement with fellow Ngāti Rārua rangatira Te Poa Karoro over land on the southern side of the Motueka river. Te Tana left the area to go to Wairau and placed a rahui over

the Motueka River, personifying it in his own likeness forbidding anyone to cross the river and settle on the disputed lands. The rahui was later removed and the land freed up for settlement.

e Tana signed the Te Tiriti o Waitangi at Guards Bay, Port Underwood, 17 June 1840 and was present just three years later at the ill fated Wairau Affray at Tua Marino north of Blenheim. He died on 11 April 1862 at his pa in Wairau surrounded by his whānau and his people. Contained within his parting message to his sons was this directive “Kia atawhai te tangata i muri i au, kia pai te noho - After I leave you be kind to all men and live in peace”. From Te Runanga o Ngāti Rārua.

Left: Te Tana Pukekōhatu stands at Bark Bay.

FEATURE

GUIDING THE

GUIDES Words: Brendan Alborn.

HOW NMIT TE PŪKENGA SHAPES

OUR VISITOR EXPERIENCE

If you have ever done an activity in the Abel Tasman there is a high chance your guide will be a graduate of the NMIT Te Pūkenga Adventure Tourism and Guiding Course.

he odds of this being the case increase exponentially if you did a sea kayaking trip or if you went canyoning with Abel Tasman Canyons. In fact, it is no stretch to say that the activity providers in the Abel Tasman National Park, particularly the kayaking companies, wouldn’t be able to do what they do without the stream of NMIT graduates flowing into their businesses each summer. NMIT Te Pūkenga has its main campus right in the middle of Nelson, where it runs tertiary Level 4 and 5 courses for students looking to work in the adventure activities industry. Students who complete the first-year course graduate with a Certificate in Adventure Tourism and Guiding while students who finish the full two-year course earn a Diploma. Graduates can then go on to obtain industry tickets such as NZOIA awards (New Zealand Outdoor Instructors Association), NZRA (New Zealand Rafting Association) and

NZSIA (New Zealand Snow Instructors Alliance) qualifications to name a few.

With around 80% of the NMIT Te Pūkenga Adventure Tourism programme course work being completed out of the classroom, the outdoor playground that is Te Tauihu (Top of the South) is the perfect place for all of this training to happen. With many km of coastline, and three national parks, the programme is effectively two years of rock climbing, canyoning, skiing, sea kayaking, rafting, and tramping. Each year the class becomes a strong group, and often many of the class end up working in the Abel Tasman National Park. The NMIT tutors have always had close connections with the activity operators in the Abel Tasman, so there has always been a steady flow of graduates coming through to work as guides in the Park. Many of those tutors have worked as guides themselves before they started teaching at NMIT and people such as Toby Wild, of Moana SUP and Todd Jago of Waka Abel Tasman, have long and ongoing links to the Abel Tasman activities sector. I spoke to Sam Russek, NMIT’s Guiding and Adventure Tourism tutor, about his current role and how he got

involved in the first place. Sam started out working as an outdoor education teacher at Motueka High School in 2004, and was originally planning to spend his summer holidays rock climbing. However, his climbing plans were disrupted when he started suffering from compartment syndrome, a painful condition that occurs when pressure within the muscles builds to dangerous levels. He took himself out to Mārahau to meet with some kayaking types, and after some on-the-job training, ended up working the rest of the summer as a kayak guide for Marahau Sea Kayaks (MSK).

outdoor adventure guide. “Ensuring the outdoor employers, who are our key stakeholders, get work-ready staff who meet their specific requirements is a high priority.” Sam also says one of his personal aims is to “get people passionate about sea kayaking and the outdoors.” He also ensures his graduates are placed in workplaces that suit their personalities.

Above: Sam Russek, NMIT Tutor.

As fate would have it this is how Sam met his future wife, Freesia, a born and bred Mārahau local, who was also guiding for MSK. When they had Ruby, the eldest of their two daughters, Sam thought he had better – in his own words – “get a real job,” so went back to teaching. However, the pull of the Abel Tasman was strong, and he ended up back in the Park managing operations for Kaiteriteri Kayaks for a few years before being lured back into teaching at NMIT Te Pūkenga in around 2014. “NMIT already had a strong sea kayaking programme when Todd and Toby handed the baton over to me,” he says “We continue to do some of those things but have also constantly developed the programme.” Over several years Sam has done a lot of work to ensure the students who graduate from NMIT have the correct skills, knowledge, and experience to match the demands of being an

Developing a guiding career in the Abel Tasman can be a challenge but also very fulfilling as the industry is seasonal, and it operates in a reasonably small market. However, the NMIT tutors have seen examples of people starting out as guides and then progressing after a few seasons kayak-guiding to skippering water taxis and then into operations and management. Gwyn Rees started as a kayak guide, moved onto operations and management for MSK, before gaining the qualifications and experience required to skipper a water taxi for Abel Tasman AquaTaxi. Jarred Lawrence is another person who started out as a kayak guide before becoming a water taxi skipper and working in operations, currently plying his trade for Abel Tasman Kayaks. Sam is a massive proponent of the philosophy of ‘lifelong learning’, both for himself and his students. Luckily for the operators in the Abel Tasman, this means we can look forward to skilled and capable people continuing to come into our businesses.

FEATURE

HUNTING AND

GATHERING

The Nelson Tasman region is home to some of the best hunting and fishing in Aotearoa, and it is also an easy drive to places like the West Coast, North Canterbury, the Marlborough Sounds and Kaikoura where the wildlife can be even more abundant.

efore you get any further into this article though, I feel compelled to warn you it could be potentially shocking if you are opposed to the killing of wild critters. I met my wife, Johnna, in the late 90s while we were both living overseas. After meeting in Shanghai and then living in some of the largest and most cosmopolitan cities in the world, she had only ever known the metrosexual version of me. Only a few months after our return to live in Riwaka 14 years ago, Johnna was more than mildly shocked at my obsession with collecting, hunting and gathering what she called “free shit.” Having grown up rurally, I had been hunting, fishing and gathering since as long as I could remember, so now I had the opportunity to do those things, I felt like I was making up for lost time. If anything, this obsession has grown in the time we’ve been back in New Zealand. Whenever

I’m looking at the hills I find myself accessing clearings and other features for their potential as locations where wild game could be hanging out and I can’t help myself but look for trout whenever I’m driving beside a river. I find the process of hunting and gathering food and then preparing the final product for my family and friends enormously satisfying. For a start, I really enjoy the time in the wilderness, on the river or out at sea, and successfully hunting or catching the target species is more of a bonus than the determining factor of a successful expedition. But there is also a massive adrenaline rush when I do spot whatever I am targeting, particularly when hunting for deer in the hills. At the other end of the whole process, there is nothing better than being able to prepare a meal from the spoils. I also like talking about my hunting and fishing adventures although I need to rely on Johnna to give me a stern look when I have some unfortunate person cornered. This will be when I’m going into far too much detail, and I seem to have failed to notice the person I have been talking to has lost interest and is actually starting to lose consciousness as I’m scrolling through my phone endlessly showing them photos of dead stuff. Nelson Tasman is blessed with some of the best trout-fishing rivers in the country, and possibly the world. The Motueka, Riuwaka, Rye and Pelorus are the only rivers I have fished and I’ve also tried my hand on both lake Rotoiti and Rotoroa in the Nelson Lakes National Park but (cont’d)

the only thing that got eaten during those lake expeditions was me, by sandflies. The Batton, Buller, Matakitaki and Maruia are some of the other world-renowned rivers where you’ll find a mix of rainbow and brown trout. While I do enjoy fishing in our rivers for trout, it’s more about the time on the river than bagging a fish for me. Or it could simply be that my trout fishing is so spectacularly unsuccessful that I’m lying to myself. My average catch in recent years is 1.5 trout per fishing season which means the cost of my fishing licence is a donation to NZ Fish & Game more than anything else. I fish with a spinning rod rather than a fly rod which makes me something of a trout-fishing neanderthal, but I have never put the effort into learning how to set up and cast properly with my fly rod. After a few attempts on the river the only thing I caught was the hat I was wearing and the willow trees behind me. This last occurrence caused a mate to quip that I was decorating trees even though it wasn’t even Christmas time. The Marlborough Sounds, the Kaikoura Coast and the north western coast of Golden Bay, which runs roughly from Cape Farewell down to Kahurangi Lighthouse Point are arguably the best diving spots in Te Tauihu/Top of the south. I am not a diver, but pāuā and crayfish are two of my favourite foods so for a brief period a few years back I decided free diving would be a good way to collect that type of seafood. This turned out to be yet another activity I am unsuited for. Every time I am underwater I feel panicky and that I was moments away from dying. For a good while I would go diving with people who are excellent free divers. I would flap around trying to collect pāuā, finally

Fishing for rainbow trout.

get maybe one pāuā in the same time everybody else was getting their quota. Then I would end up back on shore, exhausted and as pale a ghost mumbling excuses about how my mask or snorkel wasn’t working. As I often do when things get difficult, I decided I just needed some better gear. I was going into Nelson so thought I would get a new mask and snorkel. As I was driving towards a dive shop it suddenly dawned on me that I actually hated freediving and I wondered why I kept trying to do it. I didn’t make it to the dive shop. Instead, I decided I’m much better off as a boat boy. It is no accident that two of the largest fishing companies in the country, Talley’s and Sealord, are based in this region. The fishing in Tasman Bay, across in the Marlborough Sounds, in Golden Bay and down the West Coast are not only commercially viable but are also ideal for recreational fishing. The most prevalent species, at least when I go fishing, are snapper, blue cod, kahawai, gurnard and kingfish. I do enjoy being out on the ocean fishing, but I’m not one of those people who will spend the entire day bobbing around in the sea until I finally have a respectable haul of fish. For a while I tried to fish from a kayak when we were camping at places like Tōtaranui and Tukurua. After a couple of misadventures, however, when an onshore wind came up and threatened to blow me to Australia I received a lifetime ban from Johnna, who, on one memorable occasion, dispatched a boat to come and rescue me. To add further insult to the emotional injury, I was wearing a Marahau Sea Kayaks’ shirt with GUIDE on the back. So, these days I stick to a motorised boat, usually a dinghy. I have a good mate, Grant, who shares my ‘shock and awe’ fishing philosophy so we head out in a 12 foot dinghy. We

cruise out into Tasman Bay until we feel like we’ve gone far enough, usually after about 10 minutes, and then we start fishing. We don’t use berley or even bother throwing the anchor out. We fish for as long as it takes us to each drink exactly three Heineken stubbies and then we go home, and almost every time we have managed to catch enough fish for a feed. I have also done a fair amount of fishing with mates who are really dedicated to their craft, studying the tides and fishing calendars, berleying the hell out of it, cruising around studying their sounders until they find good fish-sign, etc. etc. And I’ve enjoyed those trips but I’m more likely to fish for a couple of hours and then find a good spot in the bow for a snooze. If you’re visiting the area you might be surprised at the large volume of 4WD vehicles you will see with aluminium dog boxes on their trays. These will almost always be for the transportation of a team of pig dogs and the ubiquity of these boxes shows just as popular pig hunting is in the Nelson - Tasman region. There are a lot of wild pigs in the forests and hills and even in the national parks and they make a hell of a mess of the ground when they are rutting for food just below the topsoil. Wild pork also tastes great, and charging through the bush chasing pigs is great fun, hence the popularity of this pastime. I don’t have a pig dog personally, and indeed, when I have encountered wild pigs while trail running with my Border Collie, she will hide behind me seeking my protection from the pigs. In doing so, Maggie is making it abundantly clear she is not interested in chasing pigs, bailing them up or is in any way prepared to engage in a fight to the death just so I can eat some roasted pork.

hile I do enjoy fishing in our rivers for trout, it’s more about the time on the river than bagging a fish for me. There are also a lot of wild red and fallow deer in the hills around the Nelson - Tasman district and hunting these things is something I do whenever I get a chance. Now, if you are not from New Zealand but you are from a country that does have deer, you might be surprised to hear that we don’t have a hunting season and the deer are considered a pest because of the damage they do to our native bush. When overseas I have seen deer in heavily populated areas of countries like the US and Ireland where they wander around with diplomatic immunity, and that has always come as a shock to somebody used to skittery, cunning deer who will bolt as soon as they catch the tiniest scent

of a human. To start hunting again when we first returned to live in New Zealand, the first hurdle I needed to overcome was having Johnna agree to having any firearms in our house. Having not grown up with any guns in her family home, the very thought of having even one rifle in her own home was not something she was going to get used to in a hurry. In an attempt to assuage her fears I took one of Dad’s rifles home and showed her that without a bolt and with no bullets the greatest danger that rifle presented to any person would be if they dropped it on their own foot. I explained that the rifle would be locked away, and in a separate part of the house the bolt for the gun and the bullets would also be locked away. So, the only way one of our three children could get access to a firearm would be for them to cut the lock to the gun safe, then locate and iinstall the correct bolt and ammo for the rifle, a task that is not as simple as it sounds. Fast forward to now and Johnna does not bat an eye-lid when she walks into our kitchen to see me cleaning rifles after my latest foray into the wilderness. She is, however, still somewhat shocked at the state of my person if I’ve come home from a successful hunting or fishing mission without having had the opportunity to clean myself up first. Processing an animal in the field is a gory, mucky, bloody business and my least most favourite part of the whole deal. Most of the deer hunting I have done is on private land, although I have also hunted on public land. Hunters (cont’d)

are a funny bunch when it comes to sharing information about where they have successfully located animals, almost always choosing to keep this information close to their chest. The reason for this is they want to go back to the same spot and if they tell fellow hunters, then every man and his dog will be there and will potentially clear the area of the target species. This, I have found, is in stark contrast to trampers and other outdoor types who love to share information on the best places to go and specific information about routes and conditions. If you ask a hunter where they shot a deer, they’re more likely going to mumble something ambiguous about the hills over, um, ah, that way a bit to the, ah, south, or was it north? When I first started getting serious about hunting deer, about ten years ago, I went through a very steep learning curve. Most of my early forays were more a case of walking around in the wilderness while heavily armed, rather than hunting per se. It seemed like the only time I did spot a deer it would only be a quick glimpse of its white fluffy bottom as it disappeared into the bush. When I did get access to some private land that had so many deer the farmer was keen to have as many culled as possible, it became abundantly clear that if I was ever going to be successful, I needed to learn a whole lot of things and spend a lot more time on a shooting range honing my skills. On the massive backcountry sheep and beef station where I was hunting there certainly were a lot of deer, mainly fallow. The problem was, when I could spot them in the small clearings they would be a long way away, and even if I could get closer they would still be around 300-400 yards away. After throwing a whole bunch of lead around on one particular trip but only succeeding in hitting one deer, it was abundantly clear I needed to understand a lot more about my gear and ballistics in general. I did some research about drop-charts, MOA (Minute Of Angle), ballistic

turrets, and all sorts of other nerdy ballistics stuff that I really should have known already.

unters are a funny bunch when it comes to sharing information about where they have successfully located animals... Anyway, I bought a new rifle, a 6.5 Creedmoor, which shot better (flatter) out to longer distances, researched and purchased a much better scope and then perhaps most importantly, spent a lot of time practising on the range and making sure my new kit was sighted-in accurately. Before too long I was comfortable and confident shooting out to +400 yards. On one of our next trips to the same ranch that was still dripping with deer, my mate and I shot 11 of them. I was now much better at concentrating on having the wind in my favour, i.e. doing my best to have the wind blowing into my face so the deer I am stalking don’t spook when they literally smell me coming. I also had to learn how to locate the animals I had shot which, more often than not, will end up falling into dense bush across a gully from where I’ve taken the shot, how to process the animal in the field (that’s the mucky bit that ends up with me covered in gore) and how to carry the caucus out. Fallow deer are smaller than red deer so carrying a fallow up a steep hill through bush is usually difficult but achievable with much grunting, sweating and gnashing of teeth. Carrying a red deer, particularly a mature stag, is not always possible in which case I can only remove and retrieve the fillet and back steaks and the hind legs. For the past several years we haven’t had to buy much red meat at all from a shop as we have an abundance of wild game. The quality of this meat beats anything I have ever purchased in a store and as I said earlier, I love preparing it for my friends and family. It makes me feel resourceful, self-sufficient and thankful that I am fit and active enough to be able to do it. I take pretty much every animal I shoot and retrieve to Westbank Meats, a business owned and operated by the Kelly family. Mark, Hannah and Kath process the animals into steak, roasts and incredible small goods such as salami, burger patties, mince, all manner of different sausages and bier sticks. We’re a family of cooks too, so I like to think we make the very most of these fantastic core ingredients. I’ve recently started making my own biltong and jerky, which I reckon is the perfect healthy snack. But my family’s all-time favourite is freshly caught fish, particularly snapper, simply cut into small pieces and served sushi style with soy sauce and wasabi.

Catherine Cove, d’Urville Island.

Fisherman Island at sunrise.

CYCLING

TRAVEL

FEATURE Words and photos: Greg Buckett.

Adventuring in the Abel Tasman National Park on foot is something special if you like walking. I’m not a person who likes walking, and in fact a life long battle with arthritis has limited my ability to walk any long distances. But I can ride a bike all day (and night), and somehow my inability to walk distances has led me to a world of adventures on a bike, so I’d like to share one of my favourite local adventures with you.

call this the Bike, Beaches and Boats as it almost circumnavigates the entire Abel Tasman. You can mix this ride up, add some extra single track sections into the itinerary, make it a two-day trip or do it as one big day out. I’m going to tell you about my big day out and will give you options to extend it to a two day adventure along the way. The big day out is a total of 87km with 1,900m of climbing, and it includes 35km of riding on spectacular single-tracks that will test riders with all skill levels. I start this ride from my home in Riwaka but for you I recommend you start in Mārahau as this is where the water taxi will bring you back to. It’s a good idea to book the return boat trip at least a few days ahead and to tell the water taxi you have a bike with you. It may not be possible to get your bike on every scheduled sailing if that service is close to capacity. The usual scheduled time for a pickup at Tōtaranui is around 3pm, which is where you will end up on this adventure.

bit steep, but the gradient gets better after the first ten minutes of climbing, so you then settle in for another hour until you get to the turnoff to your right onto Canaan Road. Your climb hasn’t quite finished here as the sealed road becomes gravel for the next 10km, but after 30 minutes of yet more climbing you’ll be heading downhill for a bit. You’ll want to put on a warm jacket before you blast off down into the Canaan bason. The temperature will often drop 5 degrees Celsius as you travel through this bason, but it’s an amazing piece of country and was a filming location for the Lord of the Rings. It’ll become obvious why Sir Peter Jackson chose this as a filming location when you see how rocky, rugged and remote the landscape becomes.

he big day out is a total of 87km with 1,900m of climbing, and it includes 35km of riding on spectacular single-tracks Okay, with your taxi booked you’re ready to start the adventure. Best you start early, as there is nothing worse than a late start as you’ll end up rushing as you become more worried you are going to miss your boat. I start between 5 and 6am, and in the winter this means my first hour is in the dark, but I find this relaxing as there is little to no traffic. But if you plan to start a little later then it’s best to drive to the bottom of the Takaka hill then ride back to your car from Mārahau at the end of your day after the water taxi drops you off. From Mārahau you have a short warm up before climbing the Mārahau Hill. You can either ride the main road, climbing 280 metres in one hit or ride the rollers around and through Kaiteriteri. This is more scenic but will take 15 to 20 minutes longer. Once you’re on the other side of the Mārahau Hill you’re into your main climb of the day, the Tākaka Hill. This is a 880 metre ascent that starts a

Near the end of the gravel road you’ll see a single-track trail on your left, which you can take if you choose. It’s a grade-four mountain bike trail that comes out at the end of the road at the same place as it does if you don’t fancy tackling this advanced track. At the end of the road you will come to a small camping area where you can get water and use the toilets. In the coldest days of winter the water can be frozen, but don’t worry, the trail has plenty of streams that I drink from. It’s recommended to boil your water before drinking or use chlorine tablets, but that’s up to you. At this point of the journey you would have been riding for 2-3 hours and if you’ve planned a two day mission then you might want to add the Canaan Loop to your day. This route is on the Trail Forks riding app. It’ll take 1.5 to 2.5 hours so for the one day mission it’s best to (cont’d)

stick to the plan and leave this loop for another day. From here you’ll head through the gate on the bushline and climb for the next 650 metres before turning left onto the Rameka track. This is where the riding gets a little tricky. The Rameka track is a 7km trail intended for walking, but for experienced riders you’ll be able to stay in your saddle for 99% of the ride while less experienced riders need to walk 10% of the time. Either way it’s a beautiful native bush fringed trail that takes around 30 minutes to ride. As you exit the trail you’ll hardly notice the native bush becomes a pine forest and it’s all downhill. Beware of the slippery rocks. Some riders will find this challenging but it gets easier the further you descend. From here you have another 7km of sweet downhill single track during which you’ll cross the gravel road twice before coming to a crossroads with options to ride Great Expectations or the Lower Rameka Track. Both are fun trails that end in the same place. After the fun is done, it’s back on the pedals and for the two-day adventurers you’ll need to head to Tākaka for the night, 5km down the sealed road. If you are doing this trip in two days I recommend you checkout Motupipi Mountain Bike Park, just off Abel Tasman Drive before you hit the Motupipi village, on your way to Tōtaranui. For the one day mission, you still have another 3-4hrs of riding ahead of you so keep going and head down the gravel road until you hit the sealed road again. Take a right towards Motupipi then onto Pōhara where you can find a The views along this route are worth the uphill grunt work.

good coffee and a pie to recharge and get ready for the next 25km. You won’t want to linger for too long though as you still have 2 to 3 hours to get to Tōtaranui from where you will catch your boat back to Mārahau.

he Rameka track... is a beautiful native bush fringed trail that takes around 30 minutes to ride. From Pōhara head east and you have 14km of sealed road before getting to Wainui and the unsealed road over to Tōtaranui. Here you have two options, you continue riding straight over to Tōtaranui for about an hour, or you take the single track via Gibbs Hill which will take about 2 hours. I choose Gibbs Hill track every time as this is the only part of the Abel Tasman Track that you are allowed to ride as the rest of the Park is for walking only. Also the views from Gibbs Hill are postcard perfect. If you’re doing the Gibbs Hill route you’ll go up McShane Road about 2km before you turn to the right and into the Abel Tasman, following

Tōtaranui beach is where you catch your AquaTaxi back to Mārahau.

the signposts to Gibbs Hill. This track goes straight into a climb for about 30 minutes but when you do get to the top, make sure you stop to admire the view from the comforts of a bench seat. You might want to take a breather here because this is where the real climbing begins. The track is mostly ridable with some steep pinches but eventually it does become unrideable. There will be about 200 metres where you’ll need to push your bike but it’ll probably feel like a kilometre or more. But you will be right at the top when you get there! The summit is along a short track from here and although you don’t really get a view from here, it’s always a good feeling to stand on a summit and there’s plenty of viewing options on your way down. From the summit you’re in for 4km of amazing downhill into Tōtaranui. This is the ultimate finale to an epic adventure but do be careful as this track is fast and fun but it is also pretty easy to get out of control. As you exit the downhill head round to your right and follow the trail out to a gravel road and down to the beach. From here you’ll meet your water taxi on the beach right in front of the DOC office. The water taxi trip is a 1 to 2 hour ride past the most beautiful beaches in New Zealand and the very best way to finish the ultimate ride!

Tips and things you need to know: z

I ride this track in 5 to 6 hours but I consider myself to be fit as I ride every day. It might take someone who does less riding maybe 6 to 10 hours but if you get to the start of the Rameka Track and don’t think you’ll make it in one day then ride the Canaan Loop and head back to your car. If you do this please contact the water taxi company to cancel your booking so they’re not out there looking for you.

Canaan basin is cold, take warm clothing but it does warm up as you descend out of the Rameka.

Gibbs Hill is part of the Abel Tasman trail and is only open to mountain bikers from 1st May to 30th September each year.

You can find the Rameka, Gibbs Hill and Motupipi tracks on the Trailforks app.

Water is plentiful and I drink directly from the creeks but the official advice is to boil your water or use chlorine tablets.

If you’re in doubt or would like more info then feel free to give me a call on 027 245 8333.

TRAVEL

PELORUS SPOTLIGHT ON:

Words: Brendan Alborn. Images: Stan Mariette and Brendan Alborn.

S BRIDGE Pelorus Bridge is located on the Marlborough side of the border with the Nelson District, between Havelock to the north and Rye Valley to the south. The bridge itself crosses the Pelorus River where it meets the Rai River. The whole Pelorus Bridge settlement consists of a scenic reserve, a publically-owned, DOC administered but privately-managed cafe and camping ground. The postcard view from the one-way bridge on State Highway 6 is the first thing that will grab your attention; a canyon-esk river, with large grey rocks and deep, dark green pools. If you’re a fan of the Lord of the Rings universe, this was a filming location for The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug.

or the past couple of summers, a group of families, mainly our fellow Riwakians, have camped beside the river in late January, during which I’ve really enjoyed getting to know the area. There are however, some changes coming to the management of the cafe and camping ground with the family, who had operated the camp and cafe for eight years, deciding not to re-tender for the lease from DOC. So, my intel on Pelorus Bridge might be a bit stale by the time you’re reading this, but we can only hope the cafe is still awesome when it reopens and the new management is up to the high standard to which we have become accustomed. The camp itself has 14 powered sites on the south side of the river but we’ve always opted to camp on the river’s northern bank (the true right of the river) where the sites are unpowered but are larger, sunnier and grassier. We’ve been lucky enough to book out a whole row of sites along the river’s edge where we put our tents, caravans and campervans, as well as an area for communal cooking, relaxing and activities such as badminton, touch footy, frisbee and musical jams. We’ve also been blessed with

excellent weather each time we have stayed there so have spent much of our time swimming in the river. There are excellent rocks from which you can jump into deep pools just down the bank from where we camp, and also a great little section of rapids to float down for a bit of extra excitement.

here are excellent rocks from which you can jump into deep pools...

so we could float back down to the campsite. The aforementioned youngsters had been forewarned this was a compulsory activity so were all enthusiastic participants. Shortly before we departed, however, when asking for adult volunteers to come on this rafting trip to make sure we returned with exactly the same number of our offspring as we’d started the trip with, the crowd of adults dispersed as if somebody had farted at a picnic. Each of those adults either looked at their shoes or suddenly had urgent business back at their campsites. In the end, Tim, Bryre and I ‘volunteered’ to kayak down with the gaggle of nippers and another mysterious child who we seemed to have adopted without realising we’d done so.

The year before last a mate came up with a genius idea for an activity for our collective horde of offspring. That plan involved driving up Maungatapu Road a good ways along the Pelorus River with a trailer full of all manner of inflatable things, tire innertubes and other watercraft

After the short drive we located a good place to access the river. After some cursory preparations, (e.g. who needs sunscreen? Who hasn’t put insect repellent on yet?), and as soon as we got the kids and ourselves into the river it became clear that because the flow was extremely low, due to the recent extended period of fine weather, this

was not going to be a quick journey back to the campsite. In fact, it was to be a slow moving flotilla and a water-based trip punctuated with long periods of walking through shallow spots and across river rocks. This is not to say there weren’t some nice little rapids to float down, including one that caused me to tip out of my sit-on kayak when I was trying to show off my sick kayaking skills. It took us a leisurely three hours, but this included stops to jump off rocks into deep pools, snack breaks and some towing of kids who had run out of energy. It was a wonderful way to pass a beautiful summer afternoon, so as we floated back into the campsite the kids were all tired but jubilant at having been on an adventure, while the parents all wore looks of relief having started to wonder, due to our later than expected arrival, if we hadn’t had a misadventure.

t was a wonderful way to pass a beautiful summer afternoon... There are a number of nice short walks around Pelorus Bridge, including a couple of easy strolls around loop tracks on the eastern side of State Highway 6. On the western side, where the main camp area is located, are some more adventurous trails including a track to a small waterfall and also a relatively steep climb up the Trig K track. Fishing for trout is the other main daytime activity on either the Rye or Pelorus Rivers. Luckily for us, young Alex (aka Fish Slayer) is perhaps the most determined fisherman you’ll meet anywhere so we almost always get a couple of the largest of his freshly caught and smoked trout to eat while the others are released back into the river. Another tradition we seem to have created when this same group of families go camping together is buying a huge quantity of takeaways on our final evening for a group dinner. Last year, a group of us went to the Pelorus Tavern, still commonly called the Trout by locals, for a couple of quiet beers while we waited for our takeaways to be cooked. As we sat outside in the last of the day’s sunshine we noticed a small group of locals who were clearly celebrating something, and equally clearly, had been doing so for a few hours. We got talking to what turned out to be the

birthday girl, a local lady wearing a brightly coloured wig, who may have engaged in slightly more rehydration than was strictly necessary. This was turning into something of a cultural experience for some of the members of our little group in the Kiwi propensity for high-spirited, daytime drinking and celebrations. I hadn’t realised just how internationally diverse our little group was before the birthday girl asked the question of where we were all from, and the answers between the five were: “Canvastown, Murchison, Malawi, Kentucky-USA and Yorkshire-UK.” Pelorus Bridge is a special place and I’m pretty sure it’ll be another of our enduring annual camping pilgrimages.

TRAVEL

(EVEN FURTHER)

OFF THE LEASH Words and Photography: Brendan Alborn.

I’m starting to think this annual feature should be renamed: ‘The Mis-adventures of Brendan and Maggie, The High-needs Sheepdog’. While we do have Maggie’s epilepsy and incontinence under control through medication, she hasn’t re-torn her cruciate ligament, given herself another skin rash by rolling in a dead hedgehog or even gone into anaphylaxis after being stung in the mouth by a wasp, she has still been no stranger to the local vet clinic.

n August last year we were out walking in our hood when three vicious dogs broke out of their yard and attacked her. A bite administered before we managed to kick the dogs off became infected about a week after the attack and there she was, under the knife to get a drain installed in her chest before recovering at home where she was feeling very sorry for herself. I swear, that dog has had more surgery than Michael Jackson. Apart from this little mishap

however, we’ve had another good year of the daily exercise regime that keeps me from going loco and Maggie from chewing every cushion in our house. I prefer to exercise maggie off-lease and anybody who knows dogs knows how important it is for dogs to exercise off-lease so they are free to roam at their own pace, sniffing and marking as they go. All the spots below are good for off-lease exercise and are relatively safe.

THE HACKETT TRACK When I found myself with a whole day free of commitments back in January I decided to do a longer walk. I’d been meaning to spend more time in the Richmond Ranges, which, as a forest park rather than a national park, is okay for dogs. We travelled up the Aniseed Valley, up behind Hope, and parked at the roadhead for the Hackett Track on a wonderfully warm summer’s day. The first part of the track takes you through pine forest and then along the true left of the Miner River. After Maggie had her fourth dip in the river the pine forest gave way to lush native bush and the track became a genuine tramping track. By noon, we had reached Browning Hut, a classic backcountry hut and it even has dog kennels for those looking to overnight with their hounds. We had a leisurely lunch during which we were joined by a couple of trampers who were in the midst of completing the Te Araroa trail, the route along the entire length of New Zealand. The Hackett Track is part of that trail, passing through Pelorus Bridge to the north, or into Nelson Lakes National Park to the south. On our way back to the car park we took the parallel route past the Hackett Hut to check it out for a possible overnight tramp in the future. By the time we got back to the Hackett carpark the swimming hole located at the bridge was full of youngsters and family groups having a wonderful time. Maggie had one last swim and we headed for home.

MAHANA RIDGE Tasman’s Great Taste Trail contains a bunch of great sections where you can run or walk your dog safely offleash. One of the more undulating, but relatively traffic-free sections of the Trail runs along Tasman View Road between Harley Road in Mahana and Community Road in Upper Moutere. The road is unsealed and it does contain some short but steep sections, but I’ve hardly ever encountered any cars whenever I have run along that ridgeline. The 360 degree views are wonderful, and I’m always surprised at how many lifestyle blocks and new houses have popped up in that area. There is also a nice little lookout at the highest point with an information board and a canvas sail shade for when the sun is beating down.

KINA Kina features a fantastic stretch of coastline perfect for a dog walk. There is plenty of parking at the Kina Beach Campsite and you can walk in either direction from there. The surface is a bit rocky, but there is enough of a beach to walk even on higher tides. A mate of mine reckons it’s a great place for an openfire which you can sit beside, staring out to sea while wondering what it’s all about. The Garden House Kina is a great place to pick up a takeaway coffee, or you can stop at the Tasman General Store on your way through to grab a cheese scone big enough to choke a donkey.

TE KUMARA AKA Raumanuka And Motueka Sandspit Scenic Reserve but commonly known as “the Kumaras”, the area of the Motueka waterfront between Staples Street and Harbour Road, is a popular place for locals to exercise their dogs. That means you’ll need your pooch to be well socialised if you’re going to have a relaxing time here. If you head to the left from the Staple Street car park you’ll find a short but lovely, tree-lined path down to a modest momentum to the landing of the first pākehā settlers to the area. If you walk the other way, to the south, you can cut across to the beach and down the Motueka sandspit. If you’re going to walk down this way you will need to have good control over your dog so it doesn’t chase any of the shore-nesting birds you’ll find down that way. The beach is reasonably rocky to start with but it quickly becomes hard-packed sand and you’ll find yourself amazed that this little gem of a spot is so close to the centre of Motueka but still feels so removed from civilisation.

THE MĀRAHAU FORESHORE When the tide is at its lowest there are literally acres of space to exercise your dog in Mārahau. You’ll need to keep your dog away from the Otuwhero/sandspit at the southern end of Mārahau as that is the newly enforced dog-free zone, but the rest of the foreshore is your’s to enjoy. You will need to wade through some of the tidal pools, and to skirt around the eel grass, to get right out to the open ocean, but that’s the fun of it really. On fuller tides you still walk along the main beach towards the entrance of the Abel Tasman, but the wetlands at the northern end of the beach won’t be crossable without you and the K9 getting reasonably wet.

TRAVEL

SPOTLIGHT ON:

TŌTARANUI Words and Photography: Brendan Alborn.

Tōtaranui is my favourite camping ground in the country, well at least it is outside of the December/January peak season when the place is full to capacity.

e did camp there once during that peak-period many years ago, but that only reaffirmed our view that the best time to stay there is in the spring and autumn, when the place isn’t full to the gunnels, mainly with people who seem to have brought every single item they own, plus a bunch of additional gear they have borrowed from their neighbours. The only coastal part of the Abel Tasman National Park accessible by road, and the only large-scale camping ground in the entire Park, Tōtaranui has 250 sites and capacity for 850 people. One visit to Tōtaranui will confirm just why it is one of the most popular camping grounds in the South Island. It’s a beautiful, long and crescent-shaped, golden-sand Abel Tasman beach with a wonderful lagoon at the northern end. All of the campsites are unpowered and the mobile phone coverage is patchy at best, so it makes the place a perfect haven away from the outside world, particularly if you want to get yourself unglued from your screen for a while.

Our tradition is to camp at Tōtaranui for Labour Weekend in late October and again over the Easter break. We have found this a great way to celebrate the beginning of a new summer season in October and then as something of a bookend to the camping season in April before the temperatures drop. Swimming in the ocean is still nice enough at both of those times of year, and it’s generally a good time of year for fishing too. Tōtaranui was one of the first places we started camping at regularly when we moved back to Aotearoa at the end of 2010. When we first started taking our young family on camping trips we would sleep in small tents, before we graduated to a large canvas tent with two separate areas and even a sunroom at the front. Putting up the canvas tent was always a task we dreaded and one that would often be a real test of the strength of my marriage to Johnna. For example, “Put pole 46 into the red tab”. “Not that red tab. The one on your right side” (cont’d)

“Okay, the OTHER right side then if you want to be pedantic….”, Cue the gnashing of teeth, grunts of exertion and dark looks being exchanged. The first time we borrowed my parent’s caravan for one of our Tōtaranui expeditions it had been raining earlier in the day, which made the gravel and clay-based track that starts at the bottom of the hill at Wainui, rather muddy and slippery. The caravan was a 6.5m NZ made model so was well-built and therefore pretty heavy, so we started to slide around a bit as we climbed the first hill. Johnna and I exchanged a look as we both felt that first slide, but I jammed our SUV into low gear and we crawled along the unsealed road to Tōtaranui at about 10km per hour. Luckily we didn’t get any additional rain that weekend, it was wonderful to have the comfortable caravan with all of the mod cons such as a fridge and hot water, and then our drive back along the unsealed road was completely uneventful. In May 2018 Johnna and I purchased our own campervan, Queenie, and have used that each time we’ve been to Tōtranui since. Yet another of our traditions is to stop at the Dangerous Kitchen on the way through Tākaka for pizza on our way to Tōtaranui. And unlike the old days when we would often arrive in the dark and then need to pitch our tents and set up our other gear, we pull up the campervan and within 5 minutes we’re in full relaxation mode and there will be every chance we’re cracking into a tasty beverage. The daily routine at Tōtaranui for me includes a run, usually to the north along the Coast Track to Anapai, the next bay accessible from the trail, or if I’m feeling energetic, through

to Mutton Cove or as far as Separation Point. During the Easter of 2023 I was running with a group of friends when, during the climb out of Anapai on the way north, I started to feel distinctly queasy. My stomach hadn’t felt wonderful when we started the run, but the build up of pressure in my plumbing works was threatening to overwhelm me. Let’s just say I did a new personal best time back down the hill to the toilet at Anapai, and it all ended well enough.

he ability to have an open fire in any of the concrete fire pits dotted around the camp is one of the nicest things about the whole Tōtaranui experience I have sometimes run to the south towards Goat Bay, Waiharakeke and Awaroa, but that first hill is a bit of a monster and therefore an unpleasant way to start the run. If a long walk is more your thing there is an excellent loop circuit you can do from Tōtaranaui up Gibbs Hill to Whariwharangi, then back along the Coast Track via Separation Point, Mutton Cove and Anatpai. I can’t recall how many hours this walk took us but it was at least three. It was well and truly worthwhile as the terrain was varied and the views were amazing. Abel Tasman AquaTaxi also has

various trips that use Tōtaranui as a departure point so you can do something like travel to the south to Onetahuti and then walk to Tōtaranui (14.2km - 5 to 6 hours). You just need to remember to check the tides as crossing of the Awaroa estuary is only possible 2 hours either side of low tide. Our other main daylight activity at Tōtaranui is fishing, usually in a dinghy straight out in front of the main beach. There are two boat ramps, both at the northern end of the beach. One ramp goes into the estuary and the other is a narrow concrete ramp that goes down to the main beach. You have to be a confident backer of a trailer to get your boat down the main boat ramp, and Bushmans’ TV. even then, it’s not difficult to screw it up or to get stuck in the sand at the bottom of the ramp during those niggly low or half-tide conditions. The most prevalent target species of fish are snapper and blue cod, and we usually get enough for a feed. The most popular way of preparing the fish is to simply fillet it, cut it into small pieces and to eat it as fresh as possible after dipping it in a mix of soy sauce and wasabi. Only when everybody has eaten their own body weight in sushi will we be allowed to fry the rest of the fish, coated in breadcrumbs or beer-battered. At some point most days, usually in the late afternoon, somebody in our group will pick up a musical instrument and begin to play a tune. More often than not, somebody else will pick up another instrument and this will spark an improv jam involving guitars, box drums and more recently, a small keyboard. We’re quite a musical lot and have passed this on to many of our children, although none of them would be seen dead jamming with a bunch of late middle-aged Generation Xers. The ability to have an open fire in any of the concrete fire pits dotted around the camp is one of the nicest things about the whole Tōtaranui experience and it means we can comfortably stay outside long into the evening. There is something about sitting around an outdoor fire, or Bushman’s TV, that really appeals to me on a level that I don’t fully understand. We typically engage in long rounds of inappropriate joke telling, as well as challenges to get the fire so hot people have to move their camp chairs progressively away from the flames as the night goes on. On one visit when we were running low on firewood, Greg came up with a genius idea to encourage all of the kids in our midst to gather wood on the beach and in the trees around our site. He challenged the kids to make the fire so hot that he would have to move his chair back, and if they succeeded in doing so, he would

give each of them $20. The kids brought into the concept and dutifully collected a whole heap of firewood. As the fire raged, whether Greg had moved his camp chair back or not became a dispute and matter of great controversy. The kids believed he had moved. Greg was adamant he hadn’t. When he wouldn’t pay up the $20 the kids were absolutely incensed at the whole injustice of the affair. For many months afterwards Greg was the recipient of hateful stares from many of Riwaka’s young folk. Eventually he did pay up, and moved directly back to his previous status as the crazy favourite uncle. On most visits, however, another mate Tim will bring a metric-crap-tonne of firewood and will also rig up his patented heat direction screen. This is an invention entirely of his own inception, and I believe a world-first. He brings a sheet of corrugated roofing iron, two fencing standards and some wire which he uses to make a screen to direct the heat from the fire back towards the people sitting around it. This remains one of the best examples of Kiwi-enginuity I have ever seen, and it also causes some curious looks from other campers. When we visited Tōt for Easter 2023 however, Tim brought a huge log of gum from his farm which he knew would continue to burn for a long time. The only trouble with this specific log though, was that as it did burn the resulting smoke was a pungent, toxic mix that made us all start to feel distinctly like we were being poisoned. There was even some talk of abandoning the fire that night and attempting to make friends with the group at the fire further down the campsite. After lingering on the final day of every trip for one more walk, swim or cuppa on the beach, the pack-up process with the campervan is mercifully short and uncomplicated. Then we’re on our way and after stopping in Tākaka for an ice cream we’re home within a couple of hours, recharged and pleased with our life choices.

Mārahau, with its daily sea breeze, is the perfect location for sailing and other wind-based water activities such as kite surfing

FOOD

A GUIDE TO

NELSON

EATS

Words: Johny O’Donnell. Photos: Johny O’Donnell & Neat Places.

In my work, I get to travel around the country frequently and whilst I am a huge fan of the hospitality scenes of our main centres, I’ve concluded strongly that Nelson’s food scene is pretty damn good actually. One of the things that really makes Nelson’s hospitality scene standout is the unrivalled access to fresh quality ingredients from local producers – from fish caught out in the bay to locally grown fruit, through to the artisan end of the scale where we have outstanding cheese makers and wine producers. We really are spoilt when you consider our scale – a small village-like city – with a hospitality scene that punches well above its weight. The features below are recommendations from someone who knows his way around a Nelson restaurant and bar. It’s a smorgasbord of celebrated options from a local who loves a dirty gin martini as much as a sloppy sichuan chicken. Variety is indeed the spice of life.

Arden First up and for good reason is Arden Bar & Kitchen. Nestled right in the heart of Hardy Street, the best place to situate yourself for foodie experiences, Arden is now part of the furniture in Nelson and it’s hard to imagine the city without it. Run by experienced hospitality superstars Lisa Penketh and Logan Ursell, Arden is all class and a must visit while you’re in town.

A selection of the food at Babagatto.

Something that has really stood out to us recently (and we’ve made a few trips to Arden in our time) is the housemade sodas. My partner, who reaches for the non-alco-

holics far more often than myself, reckons they’re the best she’s ever tried. But the house-made sodas are more than an isolated option, they’re a part of the ethos of the place, this is an establishment where the details do matter and you can expect that every dish served and every drink poured has been done so with love and care.

only ever serving them freshly shucked and with a truly stunning mignonette to match. There is something about that pepper on the oysters that gets me every time. If you’re looking for something more substantial, Arden boasts an excellent menu that is designed for sharing. If you’re visiting with a group, don’t even bother with the menu, just trust the chef and they’ll take really good care of you. They’re also great at accommodating dietaries. Last but not least, the gin martini. World-class is an understatement. Whether you prefer it dry, wet, dirty, or with a twist, Arden crafts it to perfection. Every single time. Babaggato Next on the hit list (and a perfect second venue after a martini and oyster-fuelled beginning of the night at Arden) is Babaggato. Now this place is far more than just another Italian eatery, goodness knows we’re not short of them, Babaggato is a hero of the local scene. Don’t be fooled by its location, this place is a hidden gem and worth the visit. Here authenticity is not just a word; it’s the true essence of every dish and every experience. From the tantalising aroma wafting from the kitchen to the delectable dishes placed before you, every bite screams genuine Italian. And if the food doesn’t bring you close enough to the Italian experience, then I’m confident the owners will, given half a chance. If in doubt, ask where they’re from on the large map of Italy on the wall and you’ll be home and hosed (quite literally) in no time.

Wine enthusiasts will be dazzled by the meticulously curated wine list. Not only can you indulge in a glass (or a few) on the premises, but their off-licence selection ensures you can take a bottle of your favourite home too. The best thing about their stunning wine selection is that to the novices among us, they’re mostly unknowns and usually take us just the right amount out of our ‘table wine’ comfort zone so we can find ourselves a little.

While the cuisine takes centre stage, and rightly so, the handpicked wine list boasts hidden gems from Italy you’d be hard-pressed to find elsewhere. The wine list is meticulously curated and the wine buffs I’ve walked through the front door here are always humbled and impressed by the selection. Don’t expect to have your head stuck in a big menu for the night either – the chances are a bottle of something delightful will be brought to your table immediately for sampling and you’ll go from there.

Now if we’re talking wine, we better also talk cheese, right? And I’m supremely confident in saying that Arden’s selection of cheeses is superior to anything else you’ll find in the region. Their curation of exceptional cheeses from close and afar is a masterclass in pairing, served with house made crackers and chutneys. A few recommended wines from the bar and a cheese platter will literally never serve you wrong at Arden.

As for the service? You’re not just a customer here; you’re famiglia. Owners Raffaello and Alessandra are absolute gems and pour love into their establishment, providing a warm service to visitors and regulars alike. Their passion for their culture and love for their patrons shines through in every interaction. Don’t be surprised to be greeted like you’ve been friends for years and to depart with a kiss on the cheeks and an invitation to return. This is the warm embrace that is Babaggato.

The oyster lovers among us know the unparalleled joy of starting with a bubbly and plate of oysters to make us feel fancy. At Arden, they serve these delights to perfection,

If you’re torn on what to order, put the menu down and entrust your culinary journey to Raffaello. “Let Raff decide” is not just advice; it’s the best decision you’ll make. They

usually have a few “off the menu” options looming large and they’re always worth it to see what’s in season or what is getting them excited at the moment. If you prefer a little more control over your evening, then my must do recommendations are the Spaghetti Vongole, Lamb Tagliatelle, and the Tiramisu for dessert. Truly outstanding! Hardy St Eatery This eatery is a strong contender for the best all-rounder. The thing about Hardy St Eatery is they just get it – regardless of the weather, time of year, time of day – they hit the right notes. Their food is honest and made with a lot of love. Whether it’s dining kerbside in their sunkissed outdoor area in amongst the bustle of Nelson (okay, I’m exaggerating now) or tucked up inside by the fire on those bitterly cold mornings, they’ve got you covered. And when I say they get it, I mean they’re always on point with what they’re doing. They serve a small selection of damn good wines and beers, their menu always matches the season and the food is consistently top notch. Something new, something familiar, always delightful. They’ve also mastered the art of the hash brown. Crispy,

Above: the kitchen at Hardy Street Eatery. Photo: Neat Places.

golden, and bursting with flavour – seriously no one has ever regretted ordering a hash brown at this establishment. The perfect brunch pairing is their eggs benedict with bacon served on their housemade sourdough bread, which is unrivalled in my view, just as well you can usually grab a loaf to take home as well. Or, I’ve recently become rather fixated on their bacon buttie with a fried egg and chilli jam – an audible experience if there ever was one. I’ve only recently discovered their naughty little secrets sitting in the cabinet and it’s probably just as well. Their salted chocolate chip biscuits are a dream combination with a good coffee. And the donuts.....well they speak for themselves.....if you know, you know! I asked the owner James what he’s up to at the moment and if there is anything I should be highlighting. In true form, he said the most important thing to celebrate was the amazing team behind Hardy St Eatery. He’s not wrong, the staff are gold here and always seem genuinely into their work, it’s not uncommon to get a goodbye wave from the kitchen on the way out. For your brunch and lunch needs, don’t look past Hardy St Eatery. And to the team, I apologise for calling you an all-rounder, you’re distinctive and in a class of your own!

rave about their sake menu and so it does rate a mention but personally I find it hard to pass up an Asahi when you’re enjoying fresh and delicious seafood masterfully prepared by the owner himself Yuki Takeoda. If you’re not a fan of raw fish then it’s probably fair warning to say this may not be the place for you but even the most unfamiliar palates I’ve taken here have been impressed with the quality, craft and nourishing flavours of the cuisine on offer. Unfortunately for us, Wafu is on the walk home from the office and therefore is more of a hazard than a destination. We don’t need to convince ourselves to go here but we often have to talk ourselves down to make it home for the meal we had planned because the place is simply irresistible. And the best part? Unlike so many other eateries, you walk out of here feeling better than when you walked in. The perfect combination is a wee basket of tempura goodies, a sushi and sashimi platter and an Asahi to wash it all down (along with the worries of the world in my experience). If you hit that, you’ll honestly feel a million bucks and have zero regrets about your decision. And if you’re dining with a group, it provides a really relaxed atmosphere for the type of dinner where you can hear each other without effort. Or if you’re dining alone or as a couple, request the chefs counter and watch the master at work! Wafu Bistro Situated on the corner of Hardy and Rutherford Streets, Wafu Bistro is a small intimate eatery for around 25 people that serves only the freshest ingredients and focuses on the champions of Japanese cuisine. It’s not uncommon to walk into Wafu and see some familiar faces because those who love it, REALLY love it and I count myself among those people. One of the things I love about it is the experience is totally uncomplicated. You can venture round the menu a bit but really the staple is sushi and sashimi platters and my recommended pairing is a nice crisp Asahi lager. Others

Victus Coffee & Eatery A relative newcomer on the Nelson eats scene, Victus Coffee & Eatery has taken over from what was The Kitchen, attached to the Bridge Street Collective and opening out onto Kirby Lane (also worth a visit if you love a food truck). The lovely owners Nick and Beth are no strangers to Nelson but they’ve created something that wouldn’t feel out of place in Wellington or Auckland either. There is a LOT to love about this place but if you’re navigating dietary complexities then top of the list would have to be their outstanding range and flexibility when it comes to gluten, dairy and vegan options. There are few cafes that take catering to these needs as seriously as Victus do and

for those of us who are more in the “we eat anything” category, there is absolutely no downside either. That’s the best part – it’s just a super flexible and well considered menu that is sure to please everyone in your group.

own” scenario then there are plenty of delicious options to have fun with to create the perfect brunch of your liking. If you’re feeling like more of a health kick, I was pleasantly surprised to find a green smoothie option in town that didn’t make me feel like I was licking the soil. They’ve done a really good job of making nutritious kai taste good here and it hasn’t gone unnoticed. It’s a popular wee establishment with a great buzz about it and super relaxed and welcoming people. Highly recommended! New Asia This place closed for several months for a renovation and it was like a piece of my heart had been ripped out. The uncertainty of when those doors would swing open again was unbearable at times. There is simply no other place quite like it. Fortunately for you, those days are behind us and New Asia is well and truly back up and (cont’d)

If you’re in a hurry or after something small, the cabinet is chocker with treats. Their biscuits and slices are honestly out of this world. I’m not even a sweet tooth and they really rock my world. Perfectly paired with a consistently good coffee and a seat in the sun to soak up the buzz of Kirby Lane. Whilst I’m pretty sure it’s only a winter thing, their mince on toast is an absolute winner and will have you returning for more. I have it on good authority that their scrambled eggs are among the best in the region and if you love a “build your

Above: The Boat Shed Cafe, photo nelsontasman.nz

running. Its loyal following was validated by the fact that with a very quiet re-opening, the restaurant was very quickly back to full and the queues of people hitting the smorgasbord were quickly re-established. Now if you’re a smorgasbord fan, then be my guest, but there is only one way that I choose to experience New Asia and it’s by sitting around a large table with a lazy susan full of Chinese delights and if you’re feeling really adventurous, a bottle of wine to match. You can BYO the wine or they have a pretty good selection onhand with my favourite being the Seifried Nelson Gewürztraminer.

a taste for good Chinese food. But even if that’s not your regular go-to, I’ve never left with anyone disappointed! Boat Shed Cafe I’ve intentionally saved this Nelson institution for last as it’s a totally distinctive option from everything we’ve talked about above. The Boat Shed Cafe really is a Nelson icon, perched on the water with the most stunning views out to the bay and across to the port, there are few things that feel more Nelson than enjoying yourself here.

Right, let’s cut to the chase, as not all dishes are created equal here. The must try dishes are beef hofun, spicy sichuan chicken, steamed prawn dumplings, crispy wontons and combination fried rice. I’ve only ever heard good things so I’m sure you won’t go wrong here!

Conditions do matter for this establishment and so I recommend one of three scenarios here – fancy weekend brunch with mimosas, a timeless lunch on the deck on a sunny day or a three course sunset evening with a few wines. I realise that it feels like it covers most scenarios but seriously, the right weather and timing your visit with a high tide can make a monumental difference to your experience here!

We absolutely adore Grace and the team at New Asia. They are so friendly and welcoming, passionate about what they do and very caring with their customers. New Asia is most definitely top of the must do list for those with

What I love about the Boat Shed Cafe is that its menu celebrates this place – expect local cheeses, an array of seafood options, local produce and wines from some of our most celebrated local wineries. Take your time here and don’t be

afraid to be fussy or specific about your table when booking, being out on the deck (outside but covered) for a nice sunny day is a truly epic experience.

the country and a few rotating brews produced onsite. Asides from McDonalds or any fast food rubbish, you can take your own food into the pub to enjoy.

For those hot summer days, time it with the tides and go for a swim along the wall after. You’re a short walk from “The Wall” which is Nelson’s official swimming pool with steps down to the water and a community buzz that’ll make your heart sing. Some of my best ever days in Nelson are a couple of wines and outstanding seafood at the Boat Shed followed by a swim in the sea and a good book or some catch ups with friends whilst toasting in the sun on the wall! Too good!

Red16 is a nifty little cocktail bar with good beer selection on tap and a really pleasing food menu. This place is a hidden gem and usually serves well into the evening if you’re planning a big one.

Special Mentions East St Cafe for an exclusively plant-based vegan experience in Nelson City. Iko Iko Sushi for the best damn lunchtime sashimi, sushi and donburi in town. Yaza Cafe in Montgomery Square for the undisputed best cheese scone in the nation. Hawker House & Bar for a fusion experience with an atmosphere that is perfect for sharing. Just across the pavement from Hawker House & Bar is the legendary Lombardis. On a sunny evening, you could be forgiven for thinking you have indeed been transported to Italy itself. This place is a dream for those long hot evenings with a spritz in hand and delicious Italian food, with distinctively Italian service to match!

Kismet Cocktail and Whisky Bar is a world-class establishment right on our doorstep. Some locals are guilty of walking past in ignorance but once you step inside, you get a feel for the sophistication of the place immediately. Run by total pros and with an atmosphere that wouldn’t be unlike a top notch cocktail bar in the big smoke, this place is a must visit.

Just need a decent coffee? We hear ya! Whilst the New Zealand coffee scene is pioneering, a decent brew isn’t a given and so a bit of local signposting can go a long way. For me, top brews are found at Bakers Coffeeshop, Victus Cafe, Deville’s Cafe (worth a visit for so many reasons) and Blink Coffee down the alleyway off Trafalgar Street. Further afield, Sublime on Haven Road is a real gem and Raglan Roast in Tāhunanui does a surprisingly good brew for a very decent price. If you’re looking for a scenic backdrop, Ruby’s Cafe at the marina is an absolute stunner and open 7 days a week till 4pm. Trust me, having access to coffee after 3pm is not a given in this town!

Hopgood’s & Co is a non-negotiable if you’re looking for just the right amount of class. Their bistro style menu, wine selection and intimate atmosphere makes for the ultimate date night. Spice Curry Kitchen for one of the best hangover dishes in Nelson.....the Chicken 65....and if you’re really feeling it then throw in a Chilli Chicken as well. You’re welcome. Green Bamboo for a spicy Pho, the best crispy squid and some mouth watering crispy spring rolls. Oh and quite interesting cocktails! And finally, Salvito’s Pizza Bar for crunchy, cheesy, authentic takeaway pizza that will have you drooling as you resist tucking in enroute home.

Prefer a Liquid Diet? The Free House is, in my humble opinion, the finest pub in the country, with a range of craft beers on tap from around

FOOD

TE TAUIHU RECIPES TE TAUIHU TWILIGHT PLATTER

Experience the exquisite flavors of the Tasman region with this Te Tauihu Twilight Platter. Assembled with the finest locally produced delicacies, this platter is perfect for sharing during a sun-kissed evening, providing a true taste of the Tasman region.

INGREDIENTS • • • •

Craft French Paté The Smokehouse Salmon Paté The Sausage Press Co – Coppa Little River Estate Brie (Select the largest one available for maximum enjoyment)

1. Allow the Craft Pate and the Smokehouse Salmon Pate to reach room temperature for the flavours to fully unfold. 2. Prepare the Coppa from The Sausage Press, no slicing needed.

• •

Moutere Gold Plum and Chilli Chutney Fresh Sourdough Bread (Available from Hardy Street Eatery, TOAD Hall Motueka, Don Rodrigo Sourdough Bakery, or Big Score at Connings)

3. Spread a generous layer of the Moutere Gold Plum and Chilli Chutney on a small serving dish. 4. Place the whole Little River Estate Brie on the platter. To experience its full flavour, let the cheese sit for about 30 minutes before serving.

5. Slice the fresh sourdough bread into thin pieces. This bread is the perfect companion to the rich flavours on this platter. 6. Arrange all the components on a large serving board. Add fresh fruits and your

favorite crackers for a complete gourmet experience. 7. Enjoy this platter with your favorite local wine for a truly local experience!

ABOUT THE PRODUCERS Craft French Patés is an award-winning Nelson-based company that takes pride in producing traditional French patés. Hand-crafted with love and attention to detail, their patés offer a taste of authentic French cuisine right here in New Zealand.

Little River Estate is a renowned dairy that uses local A2 milk for their award-winning cheeses. Their Brie, with its creamy texture and hint of mushroom and garlic, is a delightful addition to this platter. Little River Estate is also known for its commitment to environmental sustainability and uncompromising food safety standards.

The Smokehouse is a purveyor of hot smoked seafood, including their Smoked Seafood Patés. Handmade using premium, preservative-free smoked seafood, these patés deliver a distinct coastal flavor that’s second to none. Moutere Gold hails from the small village of Upper Moutere, known for its premium fruits and traditional farming methods. Their Plum and Chilli Chutney offers a sweet and spicy accompaniment that balances the rich flavours of the meats and cheese. The Sausage Press Co is a small farmlet-based company specializing in handcrafted artisan smallgoods and charcuterie, including the delicious Coppa. They pride themselves on their traditional methods and lack of artificial preservatives or nitrates.

Enjoy the finest sourdough bread from Hardy St Eatery in central Nelson, TOAD Hall Motueka, Don Rodrigo Sourdough Bakery, or Big Score at Connings. These local bakeries are renowned for their artisan breads that make the perfect base for the rich and flavourful components of this platter. Savour the hard work and dedication of these local producers in every bite of this Te Tauihu Twilight Platter.

FOOD Forsters, Moutere.

WORTH THE DRIVE

MUST DO DINING DESTINATIONS Words: Johny O’Donnell. Photos: nelsontasman.nz

with a predominantly savoury tooth!

Forsters Moutere Hills

Oh, and I must not forget the wine. The wine!! Forsters is based at Moutere Hills Vineyard so you’ll be served wine from the very surroundings you’re dining in, a novelty that is too good to pass up for any traveller. You can do tastings on site to find your pick and good luck passing through on your way out without a taking few bottles to takeaway. Gets me everytime!

This is a real gem of a well located place and very well suited to a slow Sunday drive. Nestled in the Moutere Valley, it’s still a reasonably short drive from Motueka or Nelson. And it’s 100% worth the drive! The restaurant is perched on a small hill looking out over vineyards and the wonderful Moutere countryside. It has both indoor dining and sun-kissed outdoor options. If you’re travelling as a family, there’s plenty of space for the kids to run around and even a tractor they can play on (disclaimer – not a working tractor!). Not only is the setting idyllic but the food is truly outstanding and of an exceptionally high quality. I’d recommend the Long Board which gives you a wee taste of everything and is well suited to those who struggle to make up their minds. Otherwise, you really can’t go wrong, but I’d have to strongly endorse any of their dessert options. Easily the best in the region and that is high praise from someone

Neudorf Vineyard It’s probably a stretch to describe Neudorf as a culinary destination but I still felt it deserved some real estate on the page titled “worth the drive” because it most definitely is that and so much more. Neudorf Vineyard is where all the elements come together so beautifully – green pastures, vines for miles, exceptional wines, friendly service and an in-house pantry full of yummy local treats to accompany your wine. Yes, here you can make up your own picnic from their store, pairing with

their truly world-class wine selection. The Finn family who owns and operate Neudorf Vineyard are an absolute delight. They are the best kind of wine snobs – they know their stuff, are well travelled and proud of their nectar but are down to earth and approachable too.

really strong selection of local beers and wines. The menu is top notch, the service is always excellent and the setting is unrivalled. If you’re looking for a spot to park up, soak up the scenery and enjoy some fine local cuisine, look no further than Apple Shed Māpua. Rimu Wine Bar We absolutely love this place – a stunning wine bar with a crazy good selection of local and international wines – situated on the bustling Māpua waterfront and open year round. It’s perfect in the winter parked up by the fire with a red and a cheese platter and equally as appealing on a hot summer’s day outside people watching and enjoying a crisp Pinot Gris with your fish and chips (which you can take into the bar).

The Apple Shed This restaurant literally sits over the water in the stunning Māpua inlet, which as the name may suggest, was an old wharf for the export of apples. The restaurant itself is located in what was once an original storage shed for fruit but again, I guess that was fairly evident from the name itself. I shall move on….. This is a stunning spot for either lunch or dinner, offering exceptional views whether you’re inside or out. If it’s a nice day, it’s hard to pass up sitting outside in the sun but equally so, a table by the window inside offers just as nice of a view. The Apple Shed menu is seasonally driven, something more and more restaurants in the region are proudly owning as we ditch the very flawed model of pretending that we can have all the ingredients all year round. They pride themselves on locally sourced ingredients, including a

I love the background hum that comes with this place. On a busy summer day, you can expect to hear children screaming, people swimming, families dining, music blaring, fish and chip orders being called, dogs barking and seagulls squawking. On reading that back, it may not sound all that appealing but those are the comforting sounds of a kiwi summer and Māpua is a quintessential location to soak up all that a good seaside village has to offer. Get amongst it! TOAD Hall Motueka The multi-award-winning institution that is TOAD Hall Motueka is one of those places that you can’t really imagine not being there. It is synonymous with Motueka itself and a rite of passage for those passing through to the Abel Tasman to stop and enjoy some of the goodness that TOAD has to offer. It’s not a stretch to say this is one of the best cafes in the country, in fact it’s been named that several times before. It’s actually really hard to capture a single description of TOAD Hall because it is so many things – an (cont’d)

A little known fact about TOAD Hall is that their outstanding produce is grown onsite at a market garden which the family behind TOAD have nurtured for years to produce high quality, organic and nutrient rich locally-grown produce that fuels the restaurant side of the business and is offered via the retail grocer side of the business as well. The Smoking Barrel Motueka This place is famous for its donuts and without detracting from the distinctive range of delectable donuts on offer, I’d like to make a plug for some of the other often overlooked parts of this local establishment. organic grocery, a café, an ice cream shop, a beer garden, a live music venue, a restaurant and even a tap room for local beers and wines. The beer doesn’t get much fresher than at TOAD – it’s brewed onsite and poured straight from kegs. But that makes it sound more of a beer garden than a family affair whereas TOAD Hall really does have it all – you can enjoy that quiet beer in the sun while the kids run rampant on their outstanding playground. Below: The Riwaka Hotel.

The Smoking Barrel produces a delicious range of smoked meats under the expert guidance of Head Chef and Owner Josiah Smits who is as talented as he is passionate about the BBQ meats scene. The building where the Smoking Barrel is situated has many stories to tell and in my childhood was called Hot Mamas and was party central for Motueka during what felt like a very different era for the town. Suffice to say, things have moved on a bit since then but it’s satisfying to see the old building still offering good times and

refuge for thirsty locals and visitors alike. Their cocktail selection is the best in town (admittedly a rather low benchmark) and they have a great range of beers on tap and wines on offer. Their burgers are truly mouth-watering, you really can’t beat them but it’s not unusual for them to beat you. I’ve been defeated many a time by the size and full force of a Smoking Barrel feast but I’ve never left dissatisfied. A must visit while you’re in town…. Riwaka Hotel Those behind the re-establishment and revitalisation of this historic institution deserve a medal. Few folks have the kahunas to take on a closed country pub and make something of it in today’s environment. Unfortunately, drink driving rules and a general culture shift were absolute killers for the country pub and the Riwaka Hotel has had a chequered history with many attempts to make something of what is a truly famous local establishment. The recent owners have hit the mark with it – ensuring it’s both a friendly neighbourhood joint and an inviting destination for those passing through – not an easy balance to find. But that is the charm of the Riwaka Hotel, it’s a place for everyone and is the heartbeat of the local village. It is known as one of the oldest pubs in the country and has a fascinating history which you can read about onsite as they’ve made a real effort to capture and tell local stories. The menu itself is fairly impressive for a remote pub and on a big night, the venue can really pack out and is known to host some great parties and live music gigs. Excitingly, the business is also venturing out into a general store and cellar door for local brands, helping cement its new chapter in our local history as a bustling hub of activity in the midst of hop country.

Hooked Let’s start with the obvious fact about this place – it’s a straight 10 out 10 for location. Mārahau is bloody stunning and unbeatable on a good day. It’s a charming, rustic and laid back village that absolutely hums throughout summer and is a sleepy hollow during winter. Hooked is situated right on the waterfront, front row witness to all the action of a summer’s day and a thoroughfare for those heading in and out of the Abel Tasman. What I love about this place is they take care of the basics – the coffee is always good, the cabinet is always stocked, the beers are fresh and the service is always on point. But they’re not afraid to impress either, they have awesome music nights and serve a really varied and deliciously fresh menu. If you wish to rub shoulders with a few locals, Happy Hour from 5pm is like a religion in Mārahau and is a great way to get started early for a village that calls it a night fairly young, unless of course it’s open mic night down at Park Café (which is a must attend too!).

FOOD

Words and Photos: Brendan Alborn.

GET ME A COFFEE NOW OR LOSE ME FOREVER! Like many people, I don’t get out of first gear in the mornings until I’ve had my first coffee of the day, and sometimes only when I’m two cups deep.

’m a three long-blacks a day kinda guy. I don’t need cream, oat milk, extra hot water or sugar. Just a double-shot, old-school long black thanks. There are a lot of cafes in the Nelson Tasman region serving great coffee, but we decided to highlight some of the places around the region that are pretty much dedicated to the art of the perfect coffee, and specifically some of the coffee carts that have become ubiquitous in recent years. Now, this is not an exhaustive list of every coffee cart/joint in the district. If we included them all in this year’s mag then we won’t have anything to write about next year. Little Red Coffee Cart Situated in the Decks Reserve carpark, on the eastern side of High Street Motueka, and often referred to as Lisa’s by locals, this is another local hangout. With picnic tables and wonderful homemade bakery items, this place is extremely popular, particularly when the Sunday Market is in full swing and/or the sun is out.

Kelly’s Coffee To Go Located in Motueka’s High Street, sandwiched between the motorbike shop and Coppin’s Outdoors, Kelly’s is one-part coffee cart, two-parts local hangout. This is where high-vis wearing tradies stop early each morning on their way to the job site for their coffee fix and to discuss everything from how the local rugby teams went on the weekend

to how busted up their pig dogs got during the hunt the previous evening.

Coastal Coffee at the Motueka Marina.

Hangar Round Tucked in behind Skydive Abel Tasman and Nelson Tasman Air and on the edge of Motueka Airport’s runway, this place provides coffee and snacks for aviation types, people using the airport and passersby in a part of Mot that is otherwise bereft of coffee joints. And with a clever little nod to the location, you get a jet plane lolly with your coffee.

Coastal Coffee Located right on the edge of the marina at Port Motueka, Coastal has arguably the best location of any of the places on this list. With plenty of outdoor tables and an outlook over the boats moored at the marina, this place is really popular for cycling groups, walkers or boat users launching from the ramp located adjacent. River Haven Picture this, if you will. You’ve driven out of Motueka on your way south, you’re almost at Ngatimoti before you realise you’ve forgotten to stop in town for a takeaway coffee. Well, you need not despair. Just past the Ngatimoti School you’ll find a rather wonderful new addition to the local area, River Haven, a cafe and vineyard with a cool little coffee cart at the entrance.

Celsius Located in what could be loosely referred to as Motueka’s industrial zone, on Old Wharf Road, Celsius is another place where you’ll note that a large portion of the customers will be dressed in high vis clobber. Celsius also roasts beans for other cafes, and is owned by the same people who invented the famous reusable IdealCup. Garden House Kina beach is a fantastic spot for a walk, with the view across Tasman Bay on one side and the cliffs on the other, this rocky little part of the coastline is the perfect place to walk your hound, assuming you have one. The Garden House is a great little place for the post walk coffee, and it also sells local produce and other goodies. It’s all tastefully done and has excellent indoor and outdoor areas.

Tutaki Bakery I can feel my mood lift when I drive into Murchison and see that the coffee/food cart down Fairfax Street is open. Quite apart from being assured I’ll be able to get a good coffee, the love and attention that goes into every pie made and sold here is evident from the first bite. How about a homemade corned beef and potato pie for $7? When we quizzed the owner about his pricing he talked passionately about how he needed to support locals, some of which do not have high disposable incomes. Little Dynamite You will struggle to get a warmer or friendly welcome than you’ll get from Leanne at Riwaka’s Little Dynamite. With Thomas Brothers real fruit ice cream, produce and cherry shop in the same spot, this is a real summer hotspot. But Little Dynamite is a thing unto itself and is equally a hangout for locals as it is a must-stop for anybody travelling through the village. Ruby’s The second of our marina coffee joints, you’ll find Ruby’s down Akersten Street before you hit Talley’s at the Nelson Marina. This is another awesome spot on a sunny day, conditions under which you could cleverly pair your coffee with an awesome Duck Island ice cream.

FOOD

Words: Johny O’Donnell.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN:

THE PIE GUIDE

TO NELSON TASMAN

Let’s start with the bad news – Nelson is surprisingly devoid of good pies. Take it from someone who takes such things very seriously. Yes it’s true, Nelson has a weak spot when it comes to its pie game.

ow before I offend half the cafes in town, yes there are some inspired takes on the trusty pastry classic but here I’m being quite purposeful about the definition of a pie and stick to the types of pies you can grab on the run. The qualities of a good pie are that you can eat it without fear of a burnt mouth, runny insides that spill on your shirt and too much slippage on the pastry crumbs. When these things are avoided and you’re behind the wheel devouring a good pie, the worries of the world fade into the backdrop. Right back to Nelson, I’m going to send you to a very reliable source first with Waimea Road Bakery. This is on your way out of town and by choosing to go here you’ve decided against a trip around the scenic waterfront, but needs must eh. Waimea Road Bakery is run by a beautiful local family whose greatest personality trait is consistency – they’re open 7 days, public holidays, all day and they never run out. These are the qualities of a bakery that will never fail you. And nor does their food – pies that won’t change the world but are generous in size, have a good consistency to them and are served at the perfect temp. If you’re looking for something a bit on the fancier side, whilst sticking to our criteria, then Rustic Cuisine is along

the same stretch of road and will do you a decent coffee with a really tasty pie. Their savoury pies are sourced from another great local baker, 91 on Nile, which is also worth checking out. From here, we have two choices, we can head straight to Motueka, the undisputed pie capital of Nelson Tasman. Or we can take a slight detour and head to possibly one of the region’s most well trafficked businesses, the Wakefield Bakery. They could probably lay claim to the freshest pies in the region as I’m sure that every time I’ve been in there, they’ve been actively refilling the cabinet as pies fly out the door. Honestly, they do a roaring trade and for good reason, seriously good tucker. And the coffee is surprisingly good too! Right distractions aside, it’s time to head for Motueka. You’ll want to allow plenty of time for this one – there are too many good options here. Let’s start with the classics, enveloping us on either end of town, Motueka Bakery and the Rolling Pin Bakery. The latter just tastes like nostalgia for those of us who grew up in the town. The “can’t go wrong” cabinet, best enjoyed with a side of a cream bun or donut. Or if you’re feeling like a more balanced diet, they do the old school chicken

rolls. On the other hand, we have Motueka Bakery which has become a staple on the scene, not just for pies but also their roast pork sandwiches. I really rate their satay chicken rolls too – have had a few in my time. Staying focused on the pie front, I love their Lamb Green Curry and Kumara personally but everyone has their favourite there. My father, not shy of a pie himself, rates their sausage rolls as the best in the country. If you’ve after more of a cafe experience, TOAD Hall does a range of stunning pies that are a proper square meal if that’s what you’re after. Despite their cafe status, their pricing still reflects the quantity and quality of the pie, rather than an inflated atmosphere surcharge. I personally really dig the Chicken Leek and Bacon but their more gamey pies are popular too. If you’re wanting to be pleased with yourself, you can get a side salad from their onsite organic market garden. Look at you go. The two Euro-inspired bakeries in Motueka are the Patisserie Royale and the European Bakery. Both have their distinctive strengths but I tend towards the Patisserie for my pastry fix. I want to stress that you’re in good hands with either of these institutions but my love affair with the Patisserie was really solidified when I rented an office across the road from them for several years. Suffice to say, I’m still trying to move some of those treats from the waistline. Sorry Dad but Patisserie Royale do, in my humble opinion, the best sausage roll in town. I find them borderline addictive. The hardest thing about the sausage roll is that if you’re being sensible, you’ve chosen a sausage roll over a pie. But in my case, I tend to justify my way to a combo scenario with a very nice coffee, a sausage roll appetiser and the main event being a potato top or steak and cheese pie. Their quiches are also worthy of an honourary shoutout, despite not strictly fitting the criteria. If you’ve missed all of these options or you’ve found yourself in the not particularly rare scenario of discovering everything I’ve recommended is closed, then the Top of the Below: Mrs Smith’s Pepper Steak pie.

Above: Rustic Cuisine, Nelson.

Town Dairy stocks a really solid range of pies and other hot food. A really decent pitstop and great all-rounder. If you’re passing through Riwaka, be sure to drop in one of the cafes Mrs Smiths or Little Dynamite for a pie too. These places both have good reputations but I’ve heard that top of the class goes to the Peppersteak at Mrs Smiths these days! Now I know you’re already feeling pretty well fuelled up by now but if you happen to be making the trip over the hill to Mohua Golden Bay then I have good news for you – this little slice of paradise knows its pastries too. Once you’re down the hill and needing something to insulate against the nausea of the drive, Top Shop Takaka has you covered. The pies are seriously good and it’s actually really nice sitting out the back of the shop on the balcony there. If you’re going deeper, I highly recommend Courthouse Cafe in Collingwood, who do outstanding grub all round, but their pies are particularly noteworthy!

Sunrise in the Astrolabe, Abel Tasman.

ENTERTAINMENT

TIM WRAIGHT

SCULPTS A LEGACY IN MĀRAHAU Words: Brendan Alborn.

Despite having been born in Rangiora and spending his teens living on his family farm in Hawke’s Bay, Tim Wraight has always had a strong connection to Te Tauihu/The Top of the South and specifically to Mārahau.

im’s father, Mike Wraight worked in agricultural science and was also a renowned beekeeper while his mother, Anna, was a painter hailing from Golden Bay. The Wraight family moved down to the Motueka area around 1976 so Tim’s father could take up a position managing the implementation of the systems to freeze peas at the Talley’s processing plant. As part of his job, Mike Wraight convinced the farmers in Mārahau, including the Bloomfields and Franklins, to pull out their tobacco plants in order to plant peas. This is how Tim came to know of Mārahau, and several decades later to make his home on the edge of the Otuwhero Inlet in a building that was originally a tobacco shed. Tim’s home is also his studio where he works on both of his creative passions, sculpture and music. The space is adorned with Tim’s carvings and other creative projects, it has a full drum kit in one corner and a postcard-perfect outlook over the Otuwhero Inlet. In short, it’s an artist’s paradise. Tim’s journey to living in Mārahau and to creating incredible works of art had many twists and turns before he moved into his current home about 12 years ago. He moved to Australia in the 1980s and then onto the UK where his son was born. In 1987 he returned to Aotearoa for a visit with a view to moving home at some point in the not too distant future. During that recce visit, he visited Mārahau where he made strong local connections. The move from the UK took place in 1990, and with a healthy dose of serendipity, Tim found himself walking in the footsteps of John Henry Menzies, his great-great grandfather on his maternal side. Menzies was a woodcarver, and despite being Scottish, carved predominantly in the Māori style. Menzies studied Māori art including travelling to Rotorua where he observed Māori carving techniques and styles. When he returned home to Menzies Bay, located near Akaroa, he began creating his own Māori-inspired art using his existing carving skills, completing carvings for the family homes. Between 1900 and 1910, he built and extensively carved St Lukes Anglican Church at Little Akaloa. Menzies left Tim’s family with many carvings, furniture and house decorations as well as a book, Māori Patterns Painted and Carved, illustrating many of the traditional Māori painting and carving designs. Tim has a copy of the book in his studio and has even been able to incorporate some of these designs into his own work, including an eel inspired pattern in a recent commission for Ngāti Tama at Ngātīmoti School. Given that Tim had grown up around carvings and it had always been part of his life, it seemed only natural that when he returned to New Zealand he would get himself enrolled in a carving course at Motueka’s Te Āwhina Marae. In his own Tim Wraight in his words, he took to carving “like a duck Otuwhero home to water,” and “it was all I ever wanted and studio. to do.” He spent ten years (cont’d)

carving at and then managing the marae, during which time he was involved in finishing off pretty much all of the meeting houses in Te Tauihu. The fullness and importance of the whakapapa interwoven into those carvings really resonated with Tim who always had a strong sense of the importance of his own ancestry, particularly on his maternal side. Tim talks fondly of his time at Te Āwhina where he learnt from Kaumātua who taught him many things including how to speak te reo Māori, although he reckons some of the phrases he was taught by those elders can sound a bit antiquated to anybody who has learnt the language more recently. He singles out Matua John Mutu as a teacher who had a massive influence over his work. Mutu was extremely particular about maintaining excellence in every facet of his work and this left a big impression on Tim and the way he approaches his own carving. For example, John Mutu impressed upon him that you need to be patient and precise to carve wood or anything else for that matter, as you can never take a cut back. You get one chance to get it right and this precision is something that Tim really enjoys about carving. All of this learning set Tim up for a life that he had not expected. After a stint managing Te Āwhina Tim left the marae in 1999 in an attempt to make his way in the wider

world as an artist. He recalls that at the time he was asked by an acquaintance, “What will you do for your bread and butter?” Tim replied that he wouldn’t be making bread and butter, he would be making cake! Within the year, Tim had set up Sea Level Studio, a waterfront gallery located between Māpua and Motueka, to exhibit his art and also the work of other artists. As an aside, this building is now the home of Zappekin, an art collective of incredible local artists. Tim operated the Sea Level Studio for exactly 10 years but then decided he wanted to do two things; firstly, to live somewhere quieter and secondly, to focus exclusively on his own work. One of the final projects completed at his Sea Level Studio was to carve the waka for the original Waka Abel Tasman business, founded by the Gribben family. This led to him taking out the lease of the original Abel Tasman waka headquarters which is now his current home and studio, the old tobacco kiln on the edge of the Otuwhero Inlet, a place that he loves. “It is a beautiful space with plenty of room, and look at that outlook,” he mused when we met. These days Tim creates artwork almost exclusively on a commissioned basis for many clients, some who have continued to commission his work for 20 and even 30 years. This works well for Tim as each piece takes a long length of time from inception to finishing. He does exhibit his work occasionally, but does not sell “Cone” everything he makes. As he says, “Artists create more work than they sell. Some pieces are just too important to sell and they need to stay in public ownership and within the context in which they were created in this region.” For a piece of work to be truly successful, he says that work must contain three elements: A sense of power, a sense of awe and lastly, mana. Great art must contain something intangible and powerful. Although working largely on a commissioned-basis can lead to huge fluctuations in income Tim insists on sticking to own standards of craftsmanship and quality. When he does show his work the exhibition will invariably have a common theme or a thread that connects the work. Tim’s other great creative passion is music, both in creating original music himself and also in hosting gigs at his place. After training as a younger man in classical violin

he turned to drumming, the instrument he has played in a string of bands, and most recently in funk band DOWP’DOWDOW. He draws some interesting comparisons between creating sculpture and music. “I hit things for a living and for pleasure. I’m not really into technology so I like the simplicity of hitting a thing and then something happens.” Playing live music is like sculpting in that “You’re always a millisecond away from complete failure, and I like that feeling because you almost always pull it off.” Carving and playing the drums, “are both a noisy combination of bronze and wood.’” he adds. There haven’t been a lot of gigs at Tim’s Place in recent years, but the Swiss duo, Hyperculte will finally play there this summer as part of their 2024 tour having had their 2020 tour cancelled due to the outbreak of COVID. Over the years Tim’s Place has hosted a range of world renowned musical acts including The Shocking Pinks, Peter Brotzmann and Shades of Shakti to name a few. Tim is also impressed at the number of amazing live music venues elsewhere in the Nelson Tasman area, citing the Mussel Inn, Roots Bar, Riwaka Hotel, Deville, and East Street as his personal favourites. Although originally a six piece, DOWP’DOWDOW has had some personnel changes recently, but the new lineup is currently practising hard for the new summer gigging season.

e are blessed to live and work in this place with the ocean, the hills and these wonderful wetlands. In terms of scale, the largest project Tim has been working on in recent times is the Mārahau sculpture, a tall piece to be permanently installed at the entrance to the village. Although there was some controversy as to where it should be installed, it will sit proudly beside the Otuwhero inlet where three roads meet, Riwaka-Sandy Bay, Sandy Bay-Marahau and Kaiteriteri-Sandy Bay Roads, on public land. The project is in its final sign-off stage, a significant milestone in what has been a long process. Tim’s hope is that it will be “A beautiful signifier that you are entering a very special place.” His hope is to have the sculpture installed within 2024 and, going off the scale model of the sculpture in Tim’s studio, it will be a wonderful addition to the local landscape. Tim talks in glowing terms about Mārahau and reckons, “We are blessed to live and work in this place with the ocean, the hills and these wonderful wetlands. I love how I can walk my dogs down the middle of the road in winter!”

Above: Tim stands with his maquette for an upcoming largescale work in Mārahau.

Tim also designed the Mārahau flag you will see flying at various locations in and around the village. A couple of years ago another local, Wally Bruce, was interested in creating a Mārahau flag when he discovered Tim had already designed one. The Mārahau flag features a gold crescent to represent Sandy Bay, a green triangle to symbolise Tākaka Hill and gold stars to represent the islands in the Astrolabe Roadstead. Another project that illustrates Tim’s love for Mārahau is a photographic display in his studio featuring notable local residents. This includes born and bred local, Jodie Reid holding her hunting rifle with her dog at her feet, Park Cafe owner Yirka Ritschny and legendary local sailor Mark Rayner to name a few. This, says Tim, is an acknowledgement of some of the local characters who make Mārahau special and these works as well as the flag were part of Tim’s exhibition ‘Enclave’ at the Suter Art Gallery in Nelson. This exhibition explored the notion of Mārahau and Otuwhero as an autonomous region within the state of New Zealand. This is another example of how much Mārahau means to Tim. He says “We don’t have big buildings or hotels and have stayed true to its natural character. A lot of visitors come here but they pass through and it is done well.” Although Tim is not in the tourist market and does not benefit directly from those tourists, he doesn’t mind seeing the influx of people each summer season. Having said this, he also thinks that the COVID pandemic has taught us that maybe we had too much tourism for our infrastructure previously and it is now at a more appropriate level. “We’re back to a much nicer level where you don’t have to queue too long to get your drink at Hooked or the Park Cafe,” he says.

ENTERTAINMENT

Words and artwork: Glen Stringer.

ENTERTAINMENT

CLAY ROOTS NELSON’S POT DEALERS Words: Kerry Sunderland.

Tom Baker and Jamie Smith, both 33, have a sense of humour; their Insta handle is hotclaypotdealers.

he two formed a solid friendship when they flatted together almost 15 years ago. Today that relationship has fledged into a business partnership and several major creative collaborations including Nelson’s inaugural Clay Week, a cornucopia of everything to do with ceramics. The pair now occupy two buildings in central Nelson; Kiln Studio in Bridge Street, which is dedicated to education, and Hot Clay in Hardy Street, a gallery, where ‘shop dog’ Whio is also frequently in residence. Kiln Studio is a clay studio with residence spaces, providing opportunities for both emerging and established ceramicists to create around the clock, with 24-hour access. For two years, Jamie and Tom operated their own studio spaces at Kiln Studio but they’ve recently moved, setting up at the rear of Hot Clay Gallery at 123 Hardy Street, in order to make more space for studio residents. “We’re try-

ing to make Kiln Studio more of its own kind of community and moving here gives us the opportunity to put more energy into the gallery and Hot Clay, and whatever the future of it is,” says Tom. “It’s a point of interest as well, to see the potters working,” he adds, joking that the offering could be, “pot while you wait, in four to six weeks.” The two friends first met in 2008 when Tom was studying fine arts in Wellington and Jamie moved into the flat Tom was sharing with others. They lived together in the capital for four or five years before Jamie moved to Auckland. Tom followed a few years later. “We’ve just been mates for a long time,” Tom says, “but then we had a couple of friends at Auckland Studio Potters and two spaces opened up in the night class. Jamie and I had always been curious, I suppose. My grandmother is a potter and Jamie’s mum is a potter, so we were both exposed to it at a younger age.”

However, their first dalliance with pottery preceded them joining Auckland Potters in 2015. A few years earlier, when the two visited Jamie’s mum in Nelson, she’d taken them out to Craft Potters in Hope. “She basically said, ‘Here’s a pair of wheels, here’s some clay, go at it.’”

clay but also instilled their commitment to passing on skills to others. They’re also keen to reinvigorate Nelson’s creative community while, at the same time, growing the appreciation of ceramic art. Kiln Studio emerged from the pandemic. Jamie was in Nelson, working for his mother, the ceramicist Amber Smith (running her business so she could focus on the making), when the country went into lockdown in March 2020. He’d been poised, at the time, to move to Dunedin, but after being grounded started looking for a new studio space for his mum. He found the Bridge Street space and realised it had more potential. “Originally the idea was that it would be a space for people to run their own workshops but that didn’t work out,” says Jamie. “Herding creatives is like herding cats.” Tom, meanwhile, was living in Australia at the time (after studying ceramics in Japan for a few years), and flew back to Aotearoa. He was happy to move back home because he missed family and friends and wasn’t enjoying his job, an experience he’d rather put behind him.

realised ceramics was something I wanted to continue, but being a sole potter is actually quite a difficult life.

Jamie Berry has a record of success in the clay business.

For some reason they can’t quite explain today, they didn’t join Wellington Potters when they got home after this trip. “We were broke students at the time, you know, and it just never aligned. And then it aligned perfectly in Auckland.” Tom says they both got pretty hooked, spending as much spare time as they could at the studio. “We had really good tutors,” Jamie explains, “including Suzy Dünser, Nadine Spalter and the late Frank Checkett.” Tom adds: “We’re good friends with Suzy and she’s been quite an influence for many potters in New Zealand. I think we were quite fortunate to get a tutor at her level and I think she’s quite happy that a couple of her students have gone on to make a career out of it.” This early experience not only inspired the pair’s work with

When Tom got out of quarantine, he came to Nelson for about a month to help Jamie with the fit-out for Kiln Studio, before heading to Driving Creek in the Coromandel to undertake a residency. “Jamie was planting seeds the whole time,” Tom says. “When I was on residency I realised ceramics was something I wanted to continue, but being a sole potter is actually quite a difficult life. It’s not an easy way to make a living. And we realised there was a gap in the market for education.” Meanwhile, back in Nelson, Neville Parker had approached Jamie about taking over Origin on Hardy. “I realised I couldn’t do it alone,” says Jamie. “Tom and I ran it as Origin on Hardy for a time, learning what to do.” They say it was a steep learning curve working out how to run a gallery and a business. The second lockdown provided yet another opportunity for them when, in May 2021, they plastered up the windows, knocked down walls, gave the whole space a big lick of paint and rebranded as Kiln Gallery. “The building (cont’d)

itself is awesome, it’s quite old and has got heaps of history,” says Tom. While Origin on Hardy had been craft-based, with lots of weaving, stone, feltwork, woodwork, painting and photography, it also seemed quite obvious for the pair to focus on what they knew best. Hot Clay was born. But it was, Tom explains, a slow metamorphosis. The time was right in other ways. South Street Gallery, a pillar of ceramics in Nelson, had closed after Mike Rogers died. While Stephen from Nelson Pottery Supplies has continued to provide an important service, there were fewer places for potters to sell their work. Tom and Jamie saw the opportunity to create a space for potters to meet and chat pots. “We really liked the idea of being a community and being a space where potters could meet,” says Tom. “I’m not from Nelson but it felt quite isolated; a lot of the old potters were just doing their own thing. It didn’t seem like there was a hub.” While they admit there’s a way to go to create a hub, they’re working on it. Recognising that, historically, Nelson was such an important part of the Aotearoa pottery scene, Tom and Jamie set about trying to re-knit the local community. “That is, literally, the reason the festival has come about,” says Tom. Nelson’s inaugural Clay Week took place from October 1st to 9th 2022, incorporating workshops, masterclasses and a number of public activities and exhibitions across Nelson’s CBD and the Nelson Tasman region, including a potters’ market, a chance for the community to contribute to the creation of a public sculpture in 1903 Square and an exhibition at the Refinery Artspace called Pushing Clay Uphill. The Potters’ Market was held on the final day in Queens Garden. From modest beginnings, their dream quickly snowballed. “It became so much bigger than we expected it to be,” admits Jamie. “We’re both quite new to the scene,” says Tom. “Imposter syndrome is real. Prior to the festival, I had so many potters on pedestals. I really idolised them, so it was quite nerve-wracking reaching out to them. And we had this massive list of pretty much every potter we could think of. So we decided to start by reaching out to the people we knew and work our way through the list.” They didn’t expect so many to say yes. Fortunately, Clay Week was organised by the two in collaboration with Arts Council Nelson, who provided essential support and guidance. “Very quickly, I realised the pedestal didn’t exist,” says Tom. “Potters are people too. It’s been really lovely, a fast-tracked way of being introduced to the core community.” They also hope it provides opportunities for younger pot-

Tom Baker taking a moment to soak in the ambience of their creations.

ters to build relationships with more established potters – to reinstate the “potters’ lineage”, which has historically been part of the craft tradition. “We were part of that,” they say in unison. “We got lucky.” Jamie adds: “You can’t just sit down at a wheel and try it. You have to know so many tiny little things before anything works.” Meanwhile, they’re learning the art of curating and doing business, and as we wander around the gallery, it becomes clear every piece has a story including, intriguingly, some of Tom’s work he is selling under the names of alter egos. He says he romanticises the idea that no one knows who the artist is. “I like the idea that once I’m gone, this work will still exist and that it will be an absolute mystery [who made it]. I personally think the quality of the work is really interesting, and I really enjoyed making them, but it’s quite off the wall compared to what I usually make. It’s really hard to approach other galleries if you’re known for a certain style so in that sense it’s been super liberating. Being able to talk smack about that person, knowing that it’s me, is really quite funny.” Running two significant spaces as well as planning the festival keeps them extremely busy. “Every hour is accounted for at the moment, which is fantastic; you sleep when you’re dead, I suppose,” says Tom. “And the established potters I know all talk about being prolific when you can. Whilst you can, you’ve got to make your work because it doesn’t last forever and it’s the only way to push yourself, get better and develop; you’ve got to make lots.” Once again, they’re sharing this love with others, by accommodating both permanent and occasional artists at Kiln Studio, where there are wheels, a kiln and all the glazing materials an artist needs to become semi-professional or professional. As Tom points out, unless you have $40,000 capital, you can’t set up a studio and there’s limited physical space, and kiln space, at the community potteries. “You can’t make a living from 10 mugs.”

ENTERTAINMENT

BIRD

OF THE

MOMENT

KŌTUKU WHITE HERON

If you are travelling near the estuaries or coastal marshlands in the Abel Tasman then you may be lucky enough to catch sight of the elegant kōtuku, or white heron. The heron has pristine, white plumage, tall dark legs, a long yellow bill, and a very long neck with its distinctive “S” shape that it maintains in flight. Although common in China, Japan, India and Australasia, the white heron is rare in New Zealand, with a small population of only 150 - 200 individuals. New Zealand’s sole breeding colony is on the Waitangiroto River, near the Ōkārito Lagoon on the West Coast of the South Island. On the brink of extinction in New Zealand, the heronry was declared a flora and fauna reserve in 1941 and in 1976 became the protected Waitangiroto Nature Reserve. Kōtuku from around the country converge on the colony around August to breed. Eggs are laid in September or October. At around 10 weeks after hatching the young birds leave the nest to fend for themselves. The colony disperses around the end of Summer. The Māori proverb “He kōtuku rerenga tahi” meaning “The white heron of a single flight” was used to describe a rare visit by a distinguished guest, or rare event. For some, sighting the kōtuku was a once in a lifetime privilege. As solitary hunters, kōtuku wade through estuaries and wetlands searching for small fish, inanga, eels, frogs, tadpoles and insects. Their long legs, necks and beaks are perfect adaptations for this. Living for 15-20 years these gentle, rare and regal birds are a living treasure and deserving of our admiration and protection!

Sources: https://nzbirdsonline.org.nz and Te Ara-The Encyclopaedia of New Zealand.

INFORMATION

TOP 10 FREE THINGS TO Puna o Riuwaka is of par1 VISIT RIUWAKA RESURGENCE Te ticular cultural significance

to the people of Te Atiawa and Ngāti Rārua, who recognise it as wāhi tapu, a sacred place. Ask any local and they’ll tell you that the Riuwaka Resurgence is a special place. Need we say more? Enjoy it for yourself but don’t spread the word.

2 ENJOY FISH & CHIPS IN MĀPUA

The waterfront in Māpua is unbeatable. And the fish and chips from The Smokehouse are as good as it gets.

3 WALK THE MOTUEKA INLET

The Motueka community is full of passionate and committed people who love the place they live in. The inlet track is a great example of the many local walking and cycling tracks that have been largely developed and maintained by hardworking volunteers.

4 STROLL THE MARKETS You really can’t go wrong in Nelson Tasman. Whether it’s the famous Saturday Market in Nelson or the thriving Sunday Market in Motueka - doing both is undoubtedly your safest bet!

5 GAZE AT THE WAINUI you do the decent FALLS Ifthing and make it over

the Takaka Hill to explore Golden Bay, then you must visit the Wainui Falls. It’s roughly an hour’s return walk but the incredible experience of standing in front of the falls is a sensation that you are unlikely to forget in a hurry. It’s very good for the soul! 76

DO IN NELSON TASMAN 6 BIKE THE GREAT TASTE TRAIL

We recommend the Motueka to Kaiteriteri leg of the trip to maximise the views. The Kaiteriteri Mountain Bike Park is truly world-class. But be warned - no trip on the cycle trail is complete without a pie from Ginger Dynamite, ice cream from Thomas Bros and a rigger of ale from Hop Federation!

7 SWIM IN THE MOTUEKA SALTWATER BATHS

The Motueka Saltwater Baths are a gem. On a good high tide, the baths turn into an infinity pool looking out to the ocean’s horizon. There are also BBQs for hire nearby if you’d like to make an evening of it! you know that Motueka once had 8 VISIT MOTUEKA MUSEUM Did a thriving tobacco trade? The history of the area is truly fascinating and some great local stories are accessible for free via the humble Motueka Museum on High Street.

9 WALK UP THE CENTRE OF NEW ZEALAND The geographical centre of New Zealand just happens to be a fantastic view across the Tasman Bay. On a clear day, you will be able to make out the Abel Tasman clearly. It’s an iconic short walk that is not to be missed while you’re in the region!

10 VISIT THE SUTER ART GALLERY

Last but certainly not least! Particularly important if you’re here on a rainy day, the Suter Art Gallery in Nelson is worth the trip. They have rotating exhibitions, a great shop and a cafe on site. While you’re there, take a stroll around the beautiful Queens Gardens. 77

INFORMATION

PACKING LIST You don’t need a lot of gear to enjoy the Park, and what you don’t have can be rented from the Abel Tasman Centre in Marahau.

f you’re going anywhere at all in the great New Zealand outdoors, take a warm outer layer. Our weather gods just love messing with people. There are no pharmacies in the park so you need to take your own personal medication if required. There is only one café in the Park, at Awaroa, and that is only open during the summer, so you need to take your own food. There is fresh water available at various spots along the Coastal Track but you shouldn’t count on this being available. Much of the water available needs to be boiled before it is safe to drink so you should take your own water for the day.

DAY TRIPS

If you’re on a day trip, your gear check list is as follows...

MULTI-DAY TRIPS

If you’re on a multi-day trip that includes overnight stays at camp sites, your gear should include:

Shoes or open-toed shoes (we call ‘em jandals) Hat * Sunscreen * Insect repellent * Water bottle * A warmer outer layer and/or a raincoat * Any personal medication * Towel and swimwear if you fancy a swim

The stuff you’ll be wearing: sturdy shoes or tramping boots, shorts and a t-shirt * Long pants * Tramping pack (50-70lt) * Pack liner (to stop your gear from getting wet if it rains) * Medium size dry bag for sleeping bags & things * Sleeping bag * Bowl * Spoon * Cup * Camp shoes - jandals - optional * Spare pair of socks * Polypropylene or wool base layer, short or long sleeved * Fleece or woollen pullover * Bullet-proof rain jacket * Woolly hat * Sun hat/cap * Gloves/mittens - wool or fleece * Sunglasses - optional * Torch or headlamp * Toiletries * Water bottle - at least 1lt * Cooker, fuel and something to light it with * Food * Insect repellent * Sunscreen If you’re not staying in a hut you’ll also need: * A sleeping mat (huts have mattresses) * A tent Carrying a 20kg pack is quite tolerable for most people, although it will tire you out eventually. But if your pack weighs more than that, start taking stuff out! If you haven’t got your own outdoor gear then you can rent gear from the Abel Tasman Centre which is located at the start of the Park, on the Marahau waterfront. They have: * *

Sleeping bags Sleeping mats

* *

Tents Gas cookers

Separation Point Mutton Cove

Whariwharangi Hut

Anapai Bay Wainui Bay

P To Takaka

Tōtaranui

COASTAL TRACK

INFORMATION

Goat Bay

Waiharakeke Bay

Awaroa

TIDAL CROSSINGS

WALKING TIMES Mārahau - Anchorage Hut Anchorage Hut - Torrent Bay High tide route Low tide route Torrent Bay - Bark Bay Hut Bark Bay Hut - Onetahuti Onetahuti - Awaroa Hut Awaroa Hut - Tōtaranui Tōtaranui - Whariwharangi Hut Whariwharangi Hut - Wainui Car Park

3-4hrs 12.4km

Tinline Nature Walk (Tinline Bay) Pitt Head Cleopatra’s Pool Falls River Falls Separation Point (from Coastal Track) Tōtaranui to Whariwharangi (Gibbs Hill Track)

20 min return 40 min - 1.5 hrs 40 min return 3hrs return 1hr return 3hrs

SIDE TRIPS

Abel Head

Awaroa Lodge

Awaroa Inlet

Awaroa Hut

Awaroa River

Shag Harbour

check tide times Onetahuti Beach

Onetahuti

1-1.5hrs 4km 20 min 0.9km 2-3hrs 7.8km 2hrs 6.1km 2.5hrs 7.1km 2.5-3hrs 7.1km 3.5hrs 9.8 km 2hrs 5.7km

e ine Reserv nd Mar a Isla Tong

Tide times at Awaroa Inlet must be checked carefully. The inlet may only be crossed within 1hr 30mins before and 2hrs after low tide so please make careful note of these times. Outside of these times the crossing is dangerous. There are other tidal crossings in the Park (Torrent Bay, Bark Bay) but all have alternate high tide routes.

All marine life within the reserve is protected. No ﬁshing.

Tonga Island Seal Colony Tonga Quarry Tonga Arches

Foul Point

Mosquito Bay

Bark Bay

Medlands Beach Falls River

Sandfly Bay

Pinnacle Island Frenchman Bay North Head

KAYAKING TIMES

Boundary Bay

Torrent Bay

3hrs 4hrs 2hrs 1.5hrs

Mārahau - Observation Mārahau to Anchorage Anchorage to Bark Bay Bark Bay - Onetahuti

Pitt Head

Anchorage Te Pukatea

Cleopatra’s Pool Inland Track

Torrent River Watering Cove

Observation Beach

To Castle Rock Hill

Cyathea Cove

tea ds Stillwell Bay a

Akersten Bay

- car park

- hut

- track

- water taxi pick-up/drop-off

- tidal track

- kayak retrieval point

- sealed road

- drinking water

- unsealed road

Astro lab e

- campsite

KEY

Apple Tree Bay

Start of track

Gilbert Point Coquille Bay Tinline Bay Aqua Taxi Base 275 Sandy Bay - Marahau Road.

- telephone To Motueka/Kaiteriteri Takaka/Nelson

Adele Island

Fisherman Island

Mārahau

The Abel Tasman Centre cnr Franklin St and the Mārahau waterfront.

Split Apple Rock

Kaiteriteri

The Abel Tasman: Golden sand and clear water.