Dogs. Cats. Horses. Farm animals. Around here, we provide every animal we treat with the best, most advanced care possible. Backed by cutting-edge research, state-of-the-art diagnostics, and dozens of board-certified specialists, we deliver complete, compassionate care for animals of every kind. Yes, even cats.
6 CONVENIENT LOCATIONS ACROSS CENTRAL OHIO. SCAN THE QR CODE TO LEARN MORE. CARING. DOWN TO A SCIENCE. vmc.vet.osu.edu
COVER SECTION
Columbus’ international grocery stores stock the ingredients, flavors, and traditions allowing you to eat your way around the world without leaving Central Ohio.
CHEF’S PICKS
Local chefs and restaurant owners chime in on their favorite local grocery stores.
TWICE AS NICE
After seven years in the Short North, Ampersand Asian Supper Club expands to Uptown Westerville.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Veteran restaurateur and broker John Cordas on the landlord disconnect driving rents up— and restaurants out.
GIRL DINNER
Five Columbus eateries embracing the femmeforward food trend sweeping the internet.
COVER PHOTO BY ERIKA CLARK
COVER DESIGN BY BROOKE SHERIDAN
REINVENTING THE WHEEL
From Hot Cheeto elote to birria pizza, four Columbus food trucks are serving bold fusion cuisine.
HAS ANYONE SEEN THE PAD THAI?
MasterChef semi-finalist Wayne Lewis’ quest for the perfect pad Thai, and the recipe that came from it.
DAYOU DIVES
Korea,
From Uyghur to
Stock & Barrel’s Matt Mahoney finds a balanced meal at Dayou Market.
From the Editor
JACK MCLAUGHLIN Editor-In-Chief
Grocery Store Noir
When I walk through the doors of Saraga International Grocery or Tensuke Market, and I’m faced with a monolith of winding shelves and piles of exotic produce, it always feels to me like the final scene from Raiders of the Lost Ark, where the Ark of the Covenant is being packaged and stored inside mountains of other anonymous shipping containers, each one brimming with mystery and potential.
Because for me, a trip to an international grocery store always feels like an adventure worthy of an Indiana Jones reboot.
I should start by saying that I’m a sucker for anything novel, and I’m insatiably curious. So when I’m faced with nearly 20 different types of olives at Mediterranean Foods Imports, or piles of durian fruit, I immediately need to know everything I can about them.
Does each variety of olive have its own specific use-case? Is this thing actually edible?
While a lot of people might laugh at the comparison between a grocery store run and a bona fide Hollywood adventure, for me, they share the same foundation: possibility.
The idea of adventure is attractive because of freedom: you’re absolutely unfettered. Anything can, and often does, happen. For me, an international grocery store offers a similar—if admittedly less intense— appeal. The shelves looming in the background could offer almost anything. A pile of rare, bizarre fruit, Kit Kat flavors that you’d be sure couldn’t really exist, and an endless array of mystery sauces, tinctures, and tabletop gadgets that have absolutely no mooring in my mind.
I think this is especially true when you can’t read a product’s label. I could, quite literally, be holding the elixir of life in this dingy brown glass bottle. Or it could be fish sauce.
At the end of the day, whether adventure to you is learning about other people and cultures, cooking with ingredients you’ve never used (or maybe those you’ve never even heard of), or diving headfirst into a maze of products and produce that you know nothing about, our Spring issue—dedicated to the (quite literally) wide world of Columbus’ international markets—this one’s for you.
CALENDAR
Blooms, brews, and the return of outdoor music…yes please! We’re shaking off the winter chill and welcoming the return of patio season with open arms. Here are some festivals and events to check out this spring:
5th Annual Cherry Blossom Festival
March 25–April 25
Various locations | Free Admission
Columbus Clippers Home Opener
March 31
Huntington Park | $8–$60
Hops on High
May 9
Short North Arts District | Free Admission
Breakway Music Festival
May 29–30
Held at Historic Crew Stadium | $160–$300
HOT PLATES
Whether you’re looking for the perfect girl dinner, an international delicacy, or hometown comfort—we’ve got you covered.
@eatatjoyas
@dinersdriveinsanddumplings
@momogharohio
@roohcolumbus
PRODUCTS WE'RE LOVING
Florentine Marinara Florentine
Florentine Italian restaurant was a Columbus staple from 1945 until their closure in 2016. Nick Penzone, third generation Florentine owner, is keeping his family legacy alive—one jar at a time. Bring a bit of Italy to your home-kitchen with a jar of their best-selling marinara.
Ohio Strawberry Jam Prospect Jam Co.
Small batch, French style, artisan jam made right here in Ohio. Spread a bit of summer on your toast with the Ohio Strawberry & Summer Herb flavor. You can find them at farmers markets and local grocers like Littleton’s Market in Upper Arlington.
Cheese Curds Blue Jacket Dairy
Creamy, tangy, and a classic midwest delicacy—we’re loving cheese curds in a variety of flavors from Blue Jacket Dairy. This artisan cheese business is operated out of Bellfontaine, Ohio by husband and wife duo Jim and Angel King.
Compost Bin
Good Land Brand
Composting is cool—if you’re looking to reduce food waste this year, take the plunge and start composting! Good for the environment, and good for your garden—Good Land Brand has everything you need to get started. Don’t have a garden? No problem, you can drop off compost for free at over a dozen locations in the city.
CHEF’S PICKS CHEF’S PICKS CHEF’S PICKS
From big-box stores to fifth-generation family-owned spots, local chefs and restaurant owners chime in on their favorite local grocery stores
By Jack McLaughlin | Story Design
by Lauren Green
DAN VARGAS
Owner, The Hungarian Butcher
“My new favorite local grocery store is Eurasia Market in Graceland. I also like Dianna’s Deli on 161 and Sawmill. Both Eastern European, with fresh pastries, breads, tinned fish, and other products.”
MEG PANDO
Owner, Makers Social
“Toro Meat Market is the best and family/Hispanicowned. I absolutely love their quality of meats, but their customer service is the best I’ve ever seen in the grocery store space! Incredible people. They will literally give you recipes when you go in and visit!”
MEGAN ADA
Owner, Ampersand & Asterisk Supper Club
“My favorite grocery store is Giant Eagle. I grew up next door to a Big Bear so I was able to walk there all the time because I loved to cook growing up. Then when I owned Sunny Street in Westerville, there was a Giant Eagle right behind the restaurant where I would go every Monday morning for years at 6:00 A.M. and buy 12 gallons of milk, bananas, etc., and walk the grocery cart through the parking lot to Sunny Street. I got to know the staff there and some still work there 15 years later. I used to bring them pumpkin pancakes every year in the fall.”
EMMA FLEMMING
Owner, Monster Baby Donuts
JARED FRANCE
Co-owner, Smash Buddies
“Easy, Falters Fine Meats. They are a fifth generation local business and genuinely great people!”
“I know it’s not available year round, but we always turn the local farmers markets, specifically Clintonville and Worthington, into our grocery store during the summer! I love getting to buy directly from the farmers and makers! We find so many wonderful local businesses every season.”
FOOD FOR
Veteran restaurateur and real estate broker John Cordas discusses the disconnect between landlords and restaurant owners that’s behind the flurry of Columbus eatery closures
By John Cordas
Photos by Steven Rankins
Design by Andrew Thomas
Cordas inside his soon to open Delaware wine bar, Open BTL Wine & Spirits →
I’m a business owner and real estate broker with Sokol & Associates, I have also been managing and owning bars and restaurants (currently Shorty’s Pizza, Delaware’s Sand Bar Station and more) since 2008. I’ve seen the market from both sides of the table—the landlord’s side and the operator’s side. And right now, there’s a tension point that’s worth talking about.
We’re seeing a lot of properties trade hands. New investors are buying buildings that already have restaurants and bars in place, often at significantly higher purchase prices than they would have sold for five or ten years ago. That’s a natural part of a growing market. Cities evolve. Values increase. Investment follows momentum.
The challenge comes when the math on the real estate side doesn’t quite line up with the math on the restaurant side.
When a building is purchased at a higher price, the new owner often needs to increase rent to support the cap rate and debt service. On paper, that makes sense. Investors deserve returns. But restaurants operate on slim margins. Between labor costs, food inflation, insurance, utilities, and constant reinvestment into the guest experience, there isn’t a huge cushion. Unlike many other businesses, restaurants can’t just adjust pricing overnight without consequences. They can’t easily relocate—they’re deeply tied to their space and community.
When rent grows faster than revenue, even strong operators start feeling the squeeze. That’s when we begin to see closures that aren’t about poor management or lack of demand—they’re about financial structure.
Restaurants are often the spark plugs of an area. They create traffic. They give people a reason to come downtown on a Tuesday night. They support nearby retail, increase surrounding property values, and help shape a city’s identity. A vibrant entertainment district doesn’t happen by accident — it happens because restaurateurs take risks, invest heavily in buildouts, and commit long-term to their neighborhoods.
From my experience brokering hospitality businesses, the most successful districts are built on balance. Property owners need strong tenants. Tenants need sustainable occupancy costs. If rent consumes too large a percentage of gross revenue, the business becomes fragile. High turnover in restaurant spaces doesn’t ultimately benefit landlords either—vacancy, buildout turnover, and lost momentum can erode value just as quickly as a lower initial rent. →
As next-generation building owners step into these properties, a little extra diligence goes a long way. Understanding restaurant financials, occupancy ratios, percentage rent structures, and thoughtful escalations can create stability. The goal shouldn’t be to maximize rent on day one—it should be to create a tenant that thrives for ten years.
Restaurants create energy. They build community. They become part of the story people tell about a city. When they succeed, surrounding businesses succeed. When they close, the ripple effects are felt.
This isn’t about slowing growth or discouraging investment. It’s about alignment. Sustainable real estate and sustainable hospitality go hand in hand. If we want lively downtowns and entertainment districts that
"WHEN RENT GROWS FASTER THAN REVENUE EVEN STRONG OPERATORS START FEELING THE SQUEEZE."
people are proud of, we have to structure deals that allow both landlords and operators to win.
An option I’ve personally seen work is to buy a space and create a business model specifically for it. Recently, my group and I purchased a property at 39 E. Williams St. in downtown Delaware, Ohio. Soon we will be launching a wine and cocktail bar called Open BTL Wine and Spirits, which will also offer Delaware’s first-ever commercial rooftop patio.
At the end of the day, a balanced approach isn’t just good for restaurants—it’s good for property owners, investors, and the community as a whole. ♦
If you want Cordas’ expertise finding a new space that fits your business model, contact him at johncordasbrokerage@gmail.com.
Twice as nice
After seven years in the Short North, Ampersand Asian Supper Club expands with a second location in Uptown Westerville
Pu sh open the door at Ampersand Asian Supper Club, and for a moment, you’ll forget you’re in Uptown Westerville. Moody jazz music drifts through the space and beckons you inside. Light wood and clean lines stretch towards an open kitchen where you can watch what’s happening behind the scenes. A sweeping koi fish mural by local artist Adam Hernandez anchors the space, and the seating naturally draws you to the bar and the action behind it. It feels like a restaurant that would exist in a metropolitan hub, and that’s entirely by design.
“I hope when people step into Ampersand, they feel they’re in a big city like New York for a moment,” said owner Megan Ada, a glimmer of excitement dancing in her eyes as she speaks. “When people walk in, I hope they’re like, ‘wow, this looks like it could have been in Chicago.’ It’s just a really great addition to Uptown Westerville.”
For Megan, that addition is personal. Westerville isn’t just where Ampersand lives—it’s where her story began. It was at Ampersand’s sister restaurant, Asterisk Supper Club—a warm, old-world escape of floor-to-ceiling bookshelves and antique chandeliers—that she met Joshua Cook, the man who would become both her husband and the culinary director behind everything coming out of Ampersand’s kitchen. Where Asterisk is candlelit and layered, Ampersand is its counterpoint—modern, open, light as air.
Ampersand first opened in the Short North in 2019, but when that location closed last fall, Megan didn’t hesitate. She believed in the concept too much to let the opportunity pass, and Westerville was the natural home for its next chapter. The two now live within walking distance of both restaurants, and the familiar faces that walk through the door are often ones they’ve been serving for years. “You see the same familiar faces, everyone’s very friendly,” Megan said. “It’s a beautiful town, and it just keeps growing.”
That love for Westerville is matched only by their love of food. Megan grew up eating ramen and Japanese cuisine, shaped in part by her father’s family roots in Guam, where Japanese culinary influence runs deep. When the opportunity came to open a restaurant, the direction felt less like a business decision and more like a homecoming. Joshua—with creative input from his twin brother Jeremy— spent more than a year developing the menu entirely from scratch, learning how to expertly make a bowl of ramen, and it shows the moment you sit down.
“THAT LOVE FOR WESTERVILLE IS MATCHED ONLY BY THEIR LOVE OF FOOD.”
← Tonkotsu Ramen from Ampersand
At Ampersand, the experience starts with a drink. The bar leans into its Japanese inspiration with sake, Japanese whiskey, highballs, and a bubble tea menu for those craving something alcohol free. However, it’s the cocktail menu that really turns heads. The Cherry Blossom, made from Watershed Distillery’s Four Peel Gin, cherry blossom, and tart cherry foam, is topped off with delicate edible flowers and is the sort of drink that stops a conversation mid-sentence before summoning everyone to whip out their cell phones for a pic. The cherry on top of the Cherry Blossom? It tastes as good as it looks. Tart and sweet in equal measure and effortlessly easy to sip. There’s a clear reason people linger long after the bowls are cleared.
When you’re ready to eat, it becomes immediately clear that the kitchen doesn’t cut corners. All broths are made in-house. Mushrooms, pork, and chicken are all sourced locally. The crab rangoons are hand-pinched
“MAKING THINGS FROM SCRATCH IS SIMPLY THE ONLY WAY WORTH DOING IT.”
← Ampersand’s Pork Chashu Egg Roll, Crab Rangoon and Chicken and Lemongrass Gyoza
one by one, each generously filled with real crab and fried to a light, greaseless crisp, served with house-made dipping sauce. “We very meticulously pinch each crab rangoon, so they’re very time-consuming, but totally worth it,” Megan said.
Speaking of time-consuming things that are totally worth it, the pork belly is seared, braised, and charred through three separate cooking methods before it ever reaches your table. It arrives crispy on the outside, impossibly tender on the inside, rich with fatty, melty flavor that earns its nickname. “We call them our pork marshmallows because they literally melt in your mouth,” Megan said with a grin. That same extraordinary pork finds its way into the pillowy pork buns, which have become an equally-renowned item among regulars. “We like to joke we’ve got the best buns in town,” Megan smirks. It also anchors the Tonkatsu Ramen: a deep, flavorsome pork-bone broth soup finished with bouncy noodles, burnt
garlic oil, crispy broccoli, ginger, and specialty mushrooms. Don’t overlook the baby octopus, a dish that has become one of the restaurant’s most surprising hits. “We never expected to sell so much baby octopus!” Megan laughed.
The surprises don’t stop there. Dessert at Ampersand comes from an unexpected source: the same beloved 76-year-old baker who has spent years making buttery scones and baked goods just up the street at Asterisk Supper Club. Her apple pie egg roll has become a can’tmiss menu item; crispy, caramel-y, and topped with ice cream.
Every detail at Ampersand, from the first shake of a cocktail to the last bite of dessert, traces back to Megan, Joshua, and their belief that making things from scratch is simply the only way worth doing it. ♦
Visit Ampersand’s new location in Uptown Westerville at 32 W. College Ave.
Five Columbus eateries serving the femme-forward food fad that’s taking over the internet
By Sav McKee
FOOD TRENDS: Girl Dinner
Photos by Emma Mortellaro Design by Leah Ronski
There is something so sacred in Girl World that it feels borderline classified. Anthropologists couldn’t study it and The Vatican couldn’t canonize it. But I, bravely, will attempt to put it into words.
It’s called Girl Dinner.
Yes, men are technically allowed to partake (as this is a progressive city). However, entry requires tribute. You must arrive bearing either (a) the juiciest piece of gossip currently circulating in your group chat; (b) a deeply unhinged personal anecdote you are willing to unpack publicly; (c) a solution to a problem that global leaders couldn’t even solve.
During the ritual itself, there are rules to abide by as well. You must order at least three items. They are nonnegotiable and spiritually binding:
A A SIDE OR PLATE OF DIRTY MARTINI
(filthy, actually, and more than one is encouraged)
FRIES
(either for yourself or to share)
menu), most places in town can assemble this trio, but not all of them fully understand it. The martini must taste like you’re going to tell all of your secrets after three more sips, and the fries must be thin and crisp enough to balance the aggressively dressed Caesar salad. The setting is essential too—low lighting, pretty plates, and a perfect playlist are major components of the ever-elusive Girl Dinner. If even one of these elements falters…the spell breaks. Suddenly…it’s just any other
There is one more critical rule to follow. When the call—or usually a text these days—comes through, a friend needing a salty and savory night out, you must
Luckily, there are a handful of restaurants in Columbus that understand the gravity of this ceremony,
LINDEY’S THE AVENUE |. 2.
Two things we should appreciate more: complimentary bread service and fries served in fancy silver cups. Lindey’s delivers both, all in an impeccable interior or garden patio. Their Caesar is drenched in house-made anchovy dressing with a subtle vinegary tang I haven’t found anywhere else. Bleu cheese olives are hand-stuffed at the bar, and if Girl Dinner needs some reinforcement, add a bowl of lobster bisque.
This swanky Cameron Mitchell spot makes its own brine for dirty martinis, and the shoestring fries arrive on a gorgeous plate with scalloped trimming (ideal for an Instagram Story to commemorate the occasion). Black-and-white checkered floors, red leather booths, and sultry lighting practically insist on another round—or two—for Girl Dinner only ends when it absolutely must.
169 E. Beck St.
1307 Grandview Ave., Grandview | 94 N. High St., Dublin
A classic Girl Dinner from Lindey’s →
3. 4.
89 E. Nationwide Blvd.
5.
JEFF RUBY’S CHOUETTE
Reserve this one for extra-special news, like a new job, a big move, or even making a fake social media account to stalk your ex’s new girlfriend. The Caesar is showered in Parmigiano-Reggiano and crowned with a huge baked cheese crisp. Fries come lightly seasoned in a shiny basket with garlic aioli, and even the martini toothpicks are luxe, finished with a tiny silver ball to keep the olives in place.
66 N. High St.
Hear me out: a Caesar inspired by a dirty martini. Chouette understands the assignment. The “Dirty French Caesar” swaps anchovies for green olives, delivering that briny punch we love. Their frites are shatteringly crisp, and while a classic martini always works, the Laurier Martini takes it further with bay leaf-infused vodka shaken with saline and orange bitters and finished with an olive, naturellement.
THE TOP
2891 E. Main St.
Steakhouses are prime Girl Dinner territory: dim lighting, an excuse to get dressed up, and unlike an Italian, Mexican, or Spanish restaurant, there are always fries, martinis, and Caesars on the menu. The white tablecloths can skew a bit romantic, but The Top’s sleek bar seating keeps things casual. The bar even features a live pianist, ideal for underscoring a particularly dramatic story.
Dirty Martini from Chouette ↑
Caesar Salad from The Top ↓
From Hot Cheeto elote to birria pizza, these four Columbus food trucks are serving fusion cuisine to try
By Jack McLaughlin | Story Design by Andrew Thomas
WORLD ON WHEELS
Why enjoy food from one culture, when you can take the best parts from two or more?
Since we’re taking readers on a grocery store world tour in this issue, it only makes sense that fusion-forward eateries also have their place in the Spring 2026 edition of Stock & Barrel
We’ve put together a handful of fusion food trucks—blending everything from Elote and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos to crab rangoon and caramel sauce—for you to dig into this spring →
Birria Tacos from AJ’s Tacos.
Photo by Jordan Posner ↓
AJ’S TACOS
3307 SULLIVANT AVE.
SERVING OLD NORTH AREA
(COMING SOON)
Traditionally, Birria hails from the Western Mexican state of Jalisco, but as it’s enjoyed a meteoric rise in popularity over the last decade, the dish has also found its way into menu items from all corners of the globe, featuring flavor profiles that are just as variant.
Leading the local birria fusion movement is AJ’s Tacos & Birria, a popular Columbus food truck turned brick and mortar restaurant. At AJ’s, diners can dig into everything from their Birria Grilled Cheese to Birria Sliders, Birria Ramen, Birria Pizza and even rotating Birria Flamin’ Hot Cheeto Balls.
And, of course, you can also stick to the classics, opting for Birria Tacos, Burritos, Tortas and more.
↑ Photo by Jen Brown
Photo by Jordan Posner ↓
BUCKEYE CREPES SERVING THROUGHOUT COLUMBUS
MONDAY THRU FRIDAY 3-6 pm
While most of us associate crepes with French cuisine, the popular pancake-adjacent dish also shares provenance with Russia, where the thin, pan-fried treats are known as blini.
Buckeye Crepes, which is owned and operated by Zukhra Ganiev, offers Russian crepes with traditional ingredients and fillings, but that’s just the tip of the iceberg for the truck, which officially opened its doors in 2013.
With more than a dozen different options, patrons can grab savory varities like Gyro, Chicken Twist (chicken, spinach, tomato, onion, cheese and ranch) and Sunrise (turkey, cheese and scrambled egg) or sweet crepes stuffed with fresh fruit, the Buckeye Crepe with peanut butter and Nutella, the S’mores Crepe or an option featuring banana, Biscoff cookie butter and Biscoff cookies.
SERVING THROUGHOUT COLUMBUS
For nearly a decade, Vietnam-born Sang Boley has been serving her fusion-focused egg rolls at Columbus-area events, food festivals and more, and she doesn’t plan on stopping anytime soon.
Sang’s egg rolls, all of which are hand-rolled and stuffed by her, are crafted to be bigger and more filling than the egg rolls you’re probably used to.
Big Mouth also offers a handful of unique takes on the classic pork-filled and vegetable-stuffed options (which are also available), including egg rolls madewith chicken, vegetarian options and even their popular Apple Pie Rangoons, which swap out cream cheese and seafood in favor of apples, cinnamon and caramel sauce, served in a crispy rangoon shell.
BIG MOUTH EGG ROLLS ELOTE MAN
SERVING WORTHINGTON, GRANDVIEW & SHORT NORTH
While not technically a food truck, this corn-roasting food trailer is on wheels and pops up across Central Ohio, so it counts in our book.
Similar to birria, the traditional Mexican street food dish elote has also undergone an uptick in sales in recent years, and—also like birria—endless riffs on the classic recipe have followed.
Elote Man—which, in tradition with the dish’s roots—serves corn that’s roasted on the spot, and does so while featuring a ever-evolving flurry of options, including varieties like The House Special, with chili, lime, mayonnaise, Jalapeño Popper Doritos and flavors incorporating Flamin’ Hot Cheetos and Takis.
Photo bySarah Pfeifer →
←
Photo by Evan Frere
PRO TIPS FOR PORK CUTS
Use this guide as a reference for key benefits, simple recipes and culinary pro tips for the most popular pork cuts.
Both lean and high fat pork fat can be described as kokumi, a Japanese word to describe “rich taste” or “delicious.” serving of pork flavor nuances
Good source of: choline, pantothenic acid, phosphorus.
110
THE HAPPY PAPPY
INGREDIENTS
INSTRUCTIONS
Braised Pork Belly
1. Slice one whole white onion into 4/5 sections to line bottom of roasting pan
2. Place pork belly fat side up on top of onions
3. Fill the bottom of the pan with au jus and water
4. Cover with aluminum foil and braise for 2 hours at 350°
5. When cooled, slice pork belly to desired thickness
Slaw
1. Run apples through a mandolin for thin strips
2. Julienne red onion
3. Mix apples, red onion, carrots, sweet and sour sauce, and ranch together in mixing bowl
4. Salt and pepper to taste
Glaze
1. Toast peppercorns until fragrant
2. Deglaze with whiskey
3. Add brown sugar and caramelize
4. Add syrup and broth and reduce to desired consistency
To Serve
1. Reheat pork strips and dust with Cajun seasoning when fat is rendered down
2. Serve with 3 oz apple slaw mix and 2 oz of glaze
DOUBLE CUT
BACON APPETIZER
MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE
PATRICK O’BRIEN
1 double cut pork chop (16 oz bone-in U.S. Grade No. 1)
6 Granny Smith apples
2 cups water
1 tsp granulated sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
1 oz whole butter
2 cups brown sugar
1 cup chopped pecans
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 oz apple cider vinegar
4 oz brandy
1. Marinate pork for 12-24 hours in a mixture of your preferred herbs, crushed garlic, and citrus zest
2. Preheat oven to 400°F and heat a cast iron skillet over high heat until very hot
3. Sear the pork chop 3–4 minutes per side until a deep brown crust forms
4. Transfer the meat to the oven and cook until the internal temperature reaches 135–140°F for medium rare (about 8–15 minutes depending on thickness)
5. Remove from oven and rest meat until internal temp reaches 145°F
6. While the pork rests, deglaze the cast iron skillet with your preferred brandy
7. Simmer the apple mixture until tender, stir in remaining ingredients, reduce and thicken until pan sauce coats the back of a spoon
8. Slice the pork and serve with the warm brandy apple-pecan sauce
INGREDIENTS
1 slab
1 cup yellow mustard
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/4 cup spice
1 cup water
1 tbsp seasoning
1 bottle sauce
KNIFE & FORK BABY BACK RIBS
HUBBARD GRILLE
KURT WOODLAND
INGREDIENTS
Sauerkraut Balls
6 oz yellow onion, diced
3 1/2 oz spicy brown mustard
1 cup of all purpose flour
10 cups sauerkraut, rinsed, drained and chopped
1 stick unsalted butter
1/2 tbsp iodized salt
1/2 tbsp ground black pepper
1/4 tbsp sage
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Mix all ingredients for sauerkraut balls, except for eggs and bread crumbs, together
2. Using a #40 disher (¾ oz portion scooper), measure out level scoops of the ‘kraut ball mix
3. Form into balls, rolling balls so edges are smooth
4. Dip into egg wash, coating well
5. Coat krautballs with breading,
6. Refrigerate for at least 20 minutes
7. Preheat fryer to 350°
8. Place krautballs in oil until golden brown (about 3-4 minutes)
9. Mix together spicy mustard and mayonnaise for the dipping sauce
10. Prost!
JOEW BONG PORK & CRAB
Jeow Bong Sauce
2 tsp crab base (can substitute other shellfish or fish stock)
1 cup water
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
2 1/2 tsp jeow bong paste
1 tbsp sesame oil
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 1/2 tbsp cornstarch ` To Serve 1 lb lump crab
INGREDIENTS INSTRUCTIONS
Edamame
Recipe
1 lb unshelled edamame
1/2 tsp lemon juice
1/2 tsp sesame oil
Pinch of salt
To Serve
10 oz white rice
1 broccoli bunch
1 egg
Pinch of pickled ginger
Pinch of shredded red cabbage
Pinch of furiyaki
PORK CHASHU
BOWL
ELEVATOR HOUSE RUB CHOPS
Cranberry
Compote
1. Steep cranberries with cranberry juice for 15 minutes
2. Transfer to a small sauce pan and add 4 oz of honey
3. Bring to boil & simmer on low heat for 15 minutes until it thickens
4. Let cool and serve with pork, glaze, sweet potatoes, and asparagus
BONIFACIO: MODERN FILIPINOS
MELVIN SALAZAR
ITALIAN SAUSAGE STUFFED PEPPERS
TORTA AL PASTOR
T O B O U J E E . FROM BASIC
D I S C O V E R M O R E
Grocery StorE World Tour
By Jack McLaughlin,
Columbus’ abundant international and speciality markets make it possible to take a culinary trip around the world without crossing I-270
While many know about the litany of authentic pan-Asian spots along Bethel Road, and Columbus’ large Somali population is welldocumented, the city’s culinary offerings represent far more than just these regions.
Restaurants offer a neater, more curated version of a nation’s cuisine, but the grocery store experience is a far more exhaustive and unvarnished way to take a culture, whether that’s through the specialty snacks or drinks that don’t often make it across the ocean, or the baked goods and hot food recipes brought over by first generation immigrants.
Believe it or not, Columbus is home to regional markets offering products from Nepal, Eastern Europe, Japan, Africa and much more, and we’re here to give you an all-encompassing tour of them, from baklava to za’tar.
Mary McCarthy, and Sav McKee | Photos by Joss Ford | Section Design by Brooke Sheridan
SARAGA
INTERNATIONAL GROcERY
Started in 1994 by brothers BJ and John Sung, Saraga International Grocery now has locations throughout Indiana and Ohio. The Sung brothers are South Korean immigrants, and successful business partners. The name “Saraga” means “living” in Korean and their slogan is “Good Price, Good Products, Good People.”
Saraga International Grocery currently has three Columbus locations:
• 1265 Morse Rd. (62,000 sq ft)
• 3353 Cleveland Ave. (59,000 sq ft)
• 2750 S. Hamilton Rd. (100,000 sq ft)
They carry over ten thousand different kinds of foods and products from 50 countries. From live catfish to camel milk—if you can dream it, they probably stock it.
Their specialty is…everything. The massive store(s) boast large selections of Asian, African, Latin, Middle Eastern, European, and Hispanic products, just to name a few. The Sung brothers saw a need for a grocery store as diverse and multi-cultural as America, and they stepped up to the plate. At Saraga, you’ll find global pantry staples like cornmeal, beans, and rice sitting right alongside exotic produce and hardto-find international products. Our main advice? Try something new—your next food obsession could be hidden in the aisles of Saraga. ♦
This
unique Midwest grocery store chain transports shoppers around the world in 80 aisles
Everyone say, “Thank you, Saraga”
Did you know we have Saraga to thank for a Columbus staple? Momo Ghar, the wildly popular Nepali-Tibetan fusion dumpling spot, originally opened as a small food stand within Saraga. Owner and Tibetan immigrant, Phuntso Lama, would later move the operation to North Market in the heart of Columbus. Momo Ghar translates to “dumpling house” and the fan-favorite has garnered national attention, appearing on Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives in 2018.
Learn more about Saraga International Grocery at saragaindy.com. Visit any of their three Central Ohio locations for an adventure.
BUTCHER
This speciality Linworth butcher offers a slice of Hungary right here in Central Ohio
Hungarian THE HUNGARIAN
At The Hungarian Butcher, you’ll find a wide variety of cured, smoked, and freshly butchered meat from across Ohio. The Hungarian Butcher himself, Dan Varga, believes in blending Old World traditions with modern accessibility. They first opened in 2021, and they’ve been providing traditional Hungarian fare along with fresh, locally sourced cuts of meat ever since. Dan learned the tricks of the trade from his grandmother, Eva, a first-generation Hungarian immigrant.
Chef Varga works with local businesses and sustainable farms all over Ohio to supply the shop. You’ll find fresh cuts of meat from Sakura Wagyu Farms, Woodruff Farms, PureBred Lamb, Six Buckets Farm—just to name a few. The quality is undeniable, and there’s something to be said for knowing that your dinner lived well, and died with dignity.
At the Hungarian Butcher, they go beyond the craft of butchering, offering a rotating selection of traditional (and nontraditional) meat dishes, charcuterie, house-made pickles and more. The team at Hungarian Butcher is a tight-knit, highly skilled bunch of knife-lovers who are as dedicated to the craft as they are knowledgeable.
Here’s what you can typically find inside offered at The Hungarian Butcher:
• Fresh meat: Wagyu ribeye steaks, Wagyu short ribs, chicken and duck cuts, traditional whole chickens, ribeye steaks (their best-seller), NY strips, tri tips, fresh burgers (ready for the grill), beef shanks, brisket, and more.
• Deli: pastrami, mortadella, corned beef, blackstrap molasses ham, smoked turkey, Gabagool, pit beef, peppered bacon, house bacon, smoked liverwurst, bologna, porchetta, and more.
• Sausage: rotating selection of fresh house-made sausage including sweet Hungarian, kielbasa, longaniza, German bratwurst, merguez sausage, Toulouse French sausage, Cajun chorizo, traditional english bangers, sweet Italian sausage
Visit The Hungarian Butcher at 2177 W Dublin-Granville Rd. or view their website at www.hungarianbutcher.com.
Section: Hungarian
Class in Session
The Hungarian Butcher offers classes on cooking, sausage making, and butchering basics. The classes are BYOB, every Sunday at the shop. Learn time-honored techniques, authentic recipes, and how to break down a cut of pork or beef with expert precision.
tensuke
market
Cream bread: yup. Made-toorder sushi and bento boxes: yes again. Hard-to-source Japanese snacks like matcha Kit Kat: definitely.
In case you’re invested in the Columbus food scene and don’t already know, Tensuke Market is widely considered one of the city’s best allaround sources for Pan-Asian groceries and snacks, in addition to a popular spot for both premade and made-to-order sushi, bento boxes and other Japanese delicacies.
This Japanese gem on the city’s Northwest Side has one of the largest collections of authentic ramen, mochi, sauces, sake, and much more
The Market, which is located at 1167 Old Henderson Rd. inside of the Northwest Side’s Kenny Centre, features a unified collection of Japanese stores, including:
• Tensuke Market
• Japan Marketplace
• Akai Hana
• Belle’s Bread
• J Avenue
• Sushi Ten
• Tensuke Ramen
Visitors can grab any number of Pan-Asian groceries, sushi supplies and snacks—including Japanese Lay’s flavors like Kobe Steak and Yakitori Chicken, or the lauded and deeply nostalgic Koala’s March cookies (IYKYK)—and hard-tosource Japanese culinary supplies like mirin and daikon.
Just as much as its groceries, Tensuke Market is known for its pre-made sushi, bento boxes and onigiri.
Part of why Tensuke’s sushi is highlyconsidered has to do with ingredients, and the Northwest Side spot has them in spades.
The Market’s pre-made and made-to-order options pull from its seafood station, which is about as fresh and variable as you’ll find in the Buckeye State, from sushi-grade tuna to Norwegian Mackerel.
Before you visit, make note that Tensuke is small, and very popular, meaning you’ll likely be waiting in lines and rubbing shoulders with strangers. But we consider that just part of the experience. ♦
Visit Tensuke Market at 1167 Old Henderson Rd.
Nice Neighbors
One of Tensuke Market’s sister stores inside of Kenny Centre is Belle’s Bread, a unique Japanese bakery that boasts national recognition (it was ranked one of Food & Wine’s best bakeries in the country in 2020), while still, somehow, feeling relatively niche in Columbus circles. Does that make it one of the city’s best kept food secrets? Probably. Should you stop by and grab any number of French-influenced Japanese pastries, like Moon Bread, Mont Blanc, Spicy Tuna Bread Rolls and even matcha soft serve? We can’t answer that for you (but yes, of course you should).
La Plaza
TAPATIA
Fresh produce, a full bar, a food court and bakery, this Mexican grocery store has it all
There aren’t very many grocery stores that can provide traditional candy, baked goods, house-made ice cream, coffee, a fully stocked food court, bar, seafood, meats, dairy, and fresh produce. Owned and operated by Gustavo Salazar since 2004, La Plaza Tapatia is a community staple for anyone who enjoys Latin flavor.
Located at 255 Georgesville Rd. in Columbus, La Plaza Tapatia is a one-stop-shop for all things Mexican. If there’s one thing good food does, it’s bring people together. At La Plaza Tapatia, you’ll see kids chasing each other through the produce, butchers operating at breakneck speed to keep the lines moving, and customers connecting with each other in every aisle.
Their website says, “Food brings us all together, and we want everyone in Columbus to experience this feeling of togetherness over our delicious food. Come by our store to find something special for your pantry.” If you’re looking for produce, they’ve got everything from pantry staples to exotic specialities. Want something less green? Satisfy your sweet tooth at the bakery with fresh conchas, sweet domes, and galletas.
In addition to one of the best butcher departments in the city, La Plaza Tapatia also boasts one of the best food courts around. Serving up fresh tacos, tortas, tamales, carne asada and a full bar—you’re never going to want to leave. The best news? They’re open 7:00 A.M. to 10:00 P.M. every day of the week. ♦
Visit La Plaza Tapatia at 255 Georgesville Rd.
Candy Land
In addition to tres leches cakes and freezers full of paletas, La Plaza has a separate section just for the thousands of Mexican and Latin candies they offer. You can’t really miss it—there’s a rainbow lit sign quite literally reading “Candy Land,” and inside, aisles of De La Rosa Mazapán, Pelon Pelo Rico, Pulparindo, and Mango Rebanaditas await.
Gifted
African market
Good luck finding an elephant foot yam at Kroger or hausa koko flour at Walmart.
The owner of Gifted African Market told Stock & Barrel that her favorite part of owning and running this African and Caribbean grocery is offering items that simply don’t exist at larger chains, all at prices that feel accessible to the community.
Located near Eastland, this neighborhood staple stocks the kinds of produce, grains, and spices that form the backbone of everyday cooking across West Africa and the Caribbean. Oxtails, dried mackerel, smoked fish, and goat are just a few of the specialty meats and seafood available, while the shelves are lined with peppers, plantains, yams, palm oil, and hard-to-find blends that bring traditional African dishes to life.
Beyond the kitchen essentials, the market also celebrates culture in other ways. A vibrant selection of authentic African fabrics fills one corner, alongside Africentric beauty products like African black soap and generous cuts of raw shea butter.
For nearly a decade, Gifted African Market has served as both a resource and gathering place. It’s an anchor for Columbus’ African and Caribbean communities, offering flavors and textures that feel close to home. ♦
Come for the fresh fish and fufu, stay for the fun fabrics
Visit Gifted African Market at 2311 S. Hamilton Rd.
What’s The Deal with Fufu?
Picture a hybrid of all of your favorite starches— mashed potatoes, gnocchi, dumplings—and you’re pretty close to what a ball of fufu feels and tastes like. This West African staple, most commonly made from cassava flour, is typically boiled, pounded, then shaped into a smooth, stretchy mound. There are many different types of fufu, sometimes infused with turmeric or other spices, depending on region and tradition. It’s less of a side dish and more of a vessel, meant for scooping up rich stews and soups. Curious to make it and try it? No pounding required—Gifted African Market carries several ready-to-make fufu flours.
Romashka
Grocery Store
Romashka means “Daisy” in Russian, and Romashka Grocery Store is certainly a flower in the community garden that is Columbus. The family business is owned and operated by husband and wife duo Boris and Tatiana Vilenchuk, who have been running the grocery and the Russian Center, a nonprofit cultural center, for over 20 years.
The beloved grocery and deli is located in the heart of Linworth, but this little market might as well be an Eastern European consulate right here in Central Ohio.
At Romashka, you’ll find traditional fare from all over Eastern Europe including (but not limited to) products from Russia, Bulgaria, Ukraine, Poland, and Hungary—just to name a few. If you’re looking for homemade pelmeni, olivier, baba ganoush, kielbasa, smoked fish, or borscht, Tatiana has you covered.
To the Vilenchuk family, food and community are intertwined. They started the cultural center for their four children, and never stopped teaching. From language, to traditional song and dance, to authentic Russian food offerings, they are busy keeping families connected to their heritage through delicious meals and a strong sense of community. ♦
Visit Romashka Grocery Store at 2400 W. Dublin-Granville Rd. Their (larger) sister store, Russian Home, is located at 6007 E. Main St.
A Slavic home away from home, this Russian grocer offers Eastern European staples as well as deli delicacies
“Bread in a Bottle”—Russia’s other national drink
You’re probably familiar with vodka, but have you heard of Kvass? Also referred to as “bread in a bottle,” the traditional beverage is fermented, nutrient-rich, and low ABV. It’s traditionally made from rye bread, water, sugar, and yeast. Kvass has a distinctly tangy, soursweet flavor and it’s known for its digestive benefits.
Carfagna’s
Market & Ristorante
Old-school charm meets newschool elegance in Carfagna’s sweeping Polaris marketplace
Don’t be fooled by the boutique liquor offerings, the new winetasting room, pasta making classes or meticulous display of Italian cheeses: this is still the Carfagna’s you know and love.
In 1937, Saturnino “Sam” Carfagna opened Carfagna’s as a butcher shop and niche Italian market. The store grew, expanded its offerings, and eventually moved to Dublin-Granville Road in the 1960s. This store operated as home base for the beloved local brand until 2021, when Carfagna’s relocated its market and Polaris-area restaurant (Carfagna’s Kitchen) to a single combination site located at 1440 Gemini Place.
Mimicking the market squares of Italy, Carfagna’s Market & Ristorante offers an open floor plan with specialty stations, including one for cheese, one for its famous butcher shop, one for authentic Italian pasta-making, and more.
According to fourth generation family member Sal Carfagna, who serves as the brand’s director of marketing, the new 27,000 square foot storefront is ushering in a new era of Carfagna’s that focus on “experiential” shopping.
“Retail has turned into an experiential shopping thing; people want to be entertained,” Carfagna said in a 2021 interview with (614) Magazine.
The notion of “experiential shopping” extends to more contemporary product display and layout, but it goes beyond this as well. The popular Carfagna’s Ristorante shares a space with the Market, which also offers on-site cooking classes (where customers can learn to make classic Carfagna’s dishes) and even regular food-themed events, like its Winter Truffle Festival and Parmageddon, a cheese-focused festival centered around Parmigiano Reggiano that has been held for the last four years.
And while there’s plenty of new to take in at Carfagna’s, Sal noted that the new Carfagna’s Market, which opened in 2021, makes sure to keep the old time vibes alive and well, whether that’s through its famous red sauce, or the Italian flag inspired awning modeled after its Dublin Granville Road shop, that today stands above its butcher section.
“We don’t want to lose that nostalgia so many of our customers love,” Sal Carfagna said. ♦
Carfagna’s at 1440 Gemini Pl.
Enjoy our signature Braised Classic Pork Shank or explore a menu full of comfort‑ driven favorites for every taste — all served with great bier, warm hospitality, and the lively atmosphere that makes Our Haus a local favorite.
Enjoy our signature Braised Classic Pork Shank or explore a menu full of comfort ‑ driven favorites for every taste — all served with great bier, warm hospitality, and the lively atmosphere that makes a favorite.
GN
iNTERNATIONAL GROCERY
When describing GN International Grocery, the Pickerington business that was billed as the “largest Nepali-owned grocery store in the country” when it first opened several years ago, it may be more useful to start at what the store doesn’t do, since so much is offered. For the sake of clarity, though, we’ll list everything out for you.
GN International includes:
• A large, international market complete with a butcher shop, specialty produce, and culinary products from around the globe (with an emphasis on South Asia)
• South Asian clothing and fabrics, in addition to an on-site seamstress
• A jewelry store (Hiranya Jewelry, USA), which opened in March of 2025
• An in-house beauty salon
• Jhapali Kitchen & Bar, a Nepali and Indian eatery
The store, which stands at approximately 25,000 square feet, is located at 859 Windfeller Dr. in Pickerington. When it first opened in October of 2021, then-owner Govin Ghimiray told (614) Magazine the goal of the operation was “more than just trying to make money; we’re trying to connect everyone with food.”
Visitors can expect a massive cross-section of international produce offerings, including (but not limited to) plantains, sugarcane, dragonfruit, bitter melon, guava, jackfruit, tamarind and much, much more.
Need something a little less healthy? We understand, and so does GN International, which offers an enormous variety of international snack brands, including Masala-flavored Lay’s from India.
Their on-site restaurant, Jhapal Kitchen & Bari, is one of the few traditional Nepali eateries (we see you, Momo Ghar) in Central Ohio, serving up Jhapali Thai, Chicken Kadhai and Navratna Korma, among other options. ♦
The country’s largestNepali-owned grocery store offers everything fromspecialtiesinternational , to a restaurant, bar, and even salon
‘The Most Popular Snack in Nepal’
While GN International serves up its fair share of regional chips and treats, like Nongshim Shrimp Crackers, frozen samosas and lychee juice, according to original owner Govin Ghimiray, the store also carries Rum Pum, an instant soup that he refers to as “the most popular snack in Nepal.” The brand, which is parboiled and fried, is similar to pre-packaged ramen in terms of available flavors and preparation.
Mediterranean
Foods Imports
Long before the likes of Brassica and Shawarma Guys brought their polished pitas and build-your-own bowls to Columbus, Mediterranean Food Imports was already established as a hub for Levantine groceries and hot food.
The brand’s original storefront— located at 2647 N. High St.—has served the Old North and surrounding areas for decades, and has more recently expanded to the far North Side Side—located at 5215 Godown Rd., and Hilliard located at 3562 Main St.
Both of Mediterranean Imports’ sister stores, called Mediterranean Foods Imports & Bakery, also offer a selection of authentic baked goods, including fresh bread, pita and plenty of sweet treats, like baklava.
Part of the store’s appeal—and a reason behind its longevity—is its stock of often difficult to source specialty grocery items and deli-style food counter, where patrons can snag fresh feta, dates by the pound, and much more.
In addition to traditional market offerings, Mediterranean Imports also
Offering 18 varieties of olives and some of the city’s best shawarma, this speciality shop has been one of Columbus’ Mediterranean cornerstones since before the build-a-bowl boom
boasts a small but loyal following around the city who stand by their made-to-order hot dishes, particularly their Shawarma Pita and Falafel. The catch? You need to know this is even an option before going in, because the small, familyowned store doesn’t always make these services apparent (at the Godown Road location, hungry customers order from an unmarked deli counter in the back of the store). ♦
Visit Mediterranean Foods Imports at 2647 N. High St.
The Spice of Life
There are stores with specialty offerings, and then there’s Mediterranean Foods Imports. This longtime Columbus market—according to its delivery website—carries 18 olive varieties, including options like Moroccan Oil Curved Olives, Turkish Black Olives, Lebanese Green Olives and even Garlic Stuffed Olives. Did we mention they also offer seven types of feta and tahini as well?
thirsty
for more?
ABudweiser just doesn’t really go well with Chinese take out; a shot of Tito’s tastes downright wrong with Korean BBQ; a glass of wine made in Sandusky feels illegal next to an authentic Italian pasta dish.
Lucky Buddha Beer
Region: Qiandao Lake, China
Found at: Savor Growl | 2991 Indianola Ave.
Don’t be shy at Savor Growl—that mysterious door in the beer section isn’t staff-only. It leads to some of the most elusive bottles in town.
Brewed in China’s Thousand Island Lake region, Lucky Buddha is light, crisp, and ideal with spicy Szechuan takeout. Think Heineken or Stella, but with a subtle rice note and malty finish. The green Buddha-shaped bottle only adds to its charm!
Pascal Janvier Jasnières ‘Cuvée du Silex’ Wine
Region: Loire Valley, France
Found at: The Bottle Shop | 237 King Ave
Victorian Village’s The Bottle Shop is known for its impressive range, from splurge-worthy pinots to everyday chenin blancs. This Loire Valley standout comes from one of France’s northernmost appellations and is grown in flintrich soil, lending it a fruity nose and honeyed finish. Served best with some cheese found at perhaps Carfagna’s or The Hungarian Butcher.
From sake to soju, these grocery stores and bottle shops are pouring some of the coolest global beers, wines, and spirits around
Fortunately, thanks to our international grocery stores and corner bottle shops, we have Chinese lagers, French wines, Korean vodka, and so much more right at our fingertips. Here’s some of our favorite drinks from around the world, and where you can find them:
Cava de Oro Anejo Tequila
Region: Jalisco, Mexico
Found at: Weiland’s Market | 3600 Indianola Ave.
When in doubt on what to bring to the party, just head to Weiland’s. Their attached liquor store is as strong in global bottles as it is in local ones. This Jalisco Highlandsgrown tequila is double distilled, offering notes of dried fig, roasted nuts, and soft caramel. Pair it with flan from La Plaza Tapatia for the ultimate dessert moment.
Mal Guel Soo Rok Pineapple Soju
Region: South Korea
Found at: Sunrise Market | 1920 W. Henderson Rd.
Forget the flavored vodkas of your college years. Soju is smoother, lighter, and deceptively easy to drink. Typically made from rice or sweet potato, it’s best served chilled neat or used as a base for cocktails. This pineapple version clocks in at 14% ABV and pairs beautifully with Korean fried chicken or any other fatty Korean BBQ.
Hakutsuru Sayuri
Junmai Nigori Sake
Region: Hyogo, Japan
Found at: Tensuke Market | 1167
Old Henderson Rd.
Sake can feel intimidating, with so many options and few of them in English, but this bottle is an easy, delicious entry point. Nigori means “cloudy,” referring to its minimal filtration and gentle sweetness from residual yeast.
“Sayuri,” or “Little Lily,” is creamy, lightly sweet, and reminiscent of cherry blossom and white grape. It’s perfect with some spicy ramen that’s served next door to Tensuke or with some frozen mochi from the market itself. ♦
Tour de Columbus
A ton of other spots around Central Ohio supply unique drinks made around the globe. Why not partake in your own world tour at the following stores?
BEER & WINE
Hausfrau Haven
Accent Wine
Perfect Pour
Beer Zone
Clō Wine Bar
Chateau Wine & Spirits
Grain & Grape
Wine & Brew Emporium
Aardvark Wine & Beer
Barley Hopsters
SAKE & SOJU
CAM International Market
Lotte Oriental Foods & Gifts
Arirang Oriental Market
SPIRITS
Arena Wine & Spirits
Ale Wine & Spirits
1837 Wine & Spirits Emporium
At its best, Pad Thai is a perfect storm: slippery rice noodles tangled with egg, crunchy bean sprouts, scallions, crushed peanuts, and a sauce that hits salty, sour, sweet, and funky all at once. I’ve admittedly never been to Thailand but I have enjoyed the funky originalist version down South once. Our Americanized/McDonaldized version of Pad Thai is so much sweeter. Heavier. Suspiciously ketchupy. The sour tamarind backbone gets replaced with sugar, the funk of fish sauce is dialed down, and suddenly we’re eating a noodle dessert with peanuts. Comforting? Sure.
That’s the real heartbreak: it’s surprisingly hard to find a truly great Pad Thai (even when slightly Americanized) at a restaurant. It’s everywhere, yet rarely transcendent. Too often, the noodles are clumped, the sauce is pooled at the bottom, there's a strange pervasive greasiness, the proteins are overcooked. You want brightness—you get beige.
That’s why I started on a quest to make my own that I’m sharing with you now. It has undergone countless iterations, tweaks and even a few incantations. It’s totally doable by the average home cook and if you closely replicate this version, you may just fall in love.
Will you have to venture out to a perhaps unfamiliar Asian or International market to find some of these ingredients, probably, and so you should! Start with Saraga International Grocery—they have
My version leans into balance. Tamarind—not ketchup—is the star. Palm sugar, just enough to round the acidity without tipping into candy territory. A splash of fish sauce, fresh lime, and chili sauce for a little swagger. I cook it hot and fast, so the noodles stay tender but distinct. Bean sprouts go in at the last second to keep their crunch. Peanuts are crushed by
When it hits the bowl, it smells alive— savory, citrusy, nutty, a little wild. It tastes
Recipe
3 tbsp Palm sugar (packed) - or light brown sugar
3 tbsp Tamarind paste concentrate (Thai style, not Indian)
2 tbsp Black Thai soy sauce - or oyster sauce
1 tbsp Dark soy
1 tbsp Fish sauce
1 tsp Shrimp paste
2-3 tsp chili paste - Sambal Oelek
1/2 tsp Salt
SAUCE STIR FRY
7 oz Medium-width rice sticks (half bag)
1 lb Chicken breast or thigh - thinly sliced
1 tbsp Shaoxing wine or Mirin
2 tsp Corn starch
GARNISH
1/4 cup Roasted peanuts
crushed fine cilantro leaves
lime wedges
bean sprouts
STEP BY STEP COOKING INSTRUCTIONS ARE AVAILABLE HERE:
CHEF WAYNE LEWIS MASTERCHEF SEMIFINALIST
CULiNARY undercover
By Matt Mahoney
Photos by Jen Brown
Story Design by Lauren Green
From ‘Hot-Kid Flavored Milk Drink’ to Japanese Kit Kats, Stock & Barrel’s Matt Mahoney uncovers hidden gems and builds the perfect meal at Dayou Market
In the years following my arrival on this earth, the dietary recommendations given by the American government have changed a great deal in terms of both structure and contents. My fellow children of the 90s may recall the classic food pyramid I was raised on, recommending a lot of breads, cereals and other grain products while imploring us to use fats and sugars sparingly.
Then all hell broke loose. 2005 saw the release of the “MyPyramid” set of recommendations with its rejection of rows in favor of colored columns. The pyramid structure was then thrown out entirely with the “MyPlate” design, before the current administration brought the pyramid back from exile and flipped it on its head. Indeed, it appears as if the answer to the question, “is bread good for you?” depends not on who you ask, but when. They never make these things easy for us, do they, folks?
When my editor reached out and suggested I undertake a journey to Columbus’ Dayou Market, I began to consider how I could make the shopping experience just a bit more challenging. Simply grabbing whatever looks good to put together a meal is always enjoyable, but rarely difficult; and so for this particular journey, I opted to attempt to create a meal that satisfies the tenets of the current inverted food pyramid. Like JFK said, we do stuff because it’s hard, yeah? →
← Matt Mahoney devours his perfect Dayou Market meal
A Dayou Market meal, consisting of Hot-Kid Milk Flavored Drink, a kimbap roll, Peking
Prospective shoppers will find Dayou nestled in the corner of an unassuming shopping center off Bethel Road, where I’ve previously found some of my favorite Asian cuisine in Columbus. The space consists of a food court with several vendors as well as a full-service supermarket complete with a butcher and fishmonger. After getting my bearings, I start my shopping experience on the grocery side.
I first pop over to the fruits and veggies section. Being fairly certain that I can get my fill of vegetables over at the food court, I begin by searching for a nice piece of fruit to fulfill that part of the recommendation. Shopping for fruit at an Asian grocery store is a real treat. Simply put, the denizens of the rest of the world take this stuff much more seriously than we do. Not only can one find a range of apple subtypes from puckering sour to delightfully sweet, but ever further, there are several fruits that I had never even heard of before. Lots of twisty fruit, and fruit with spines. Failing to find the infamously stinky durian fruit, I instead opt for a dragonfruit. It’s not entirely clear how one is supposed to consume one of these, but it’s got spikes and the word “dragon” in the name. How do I say no?
As I continue my haphazard waltz through the grocery section, I next encounter the candy and sweets aisle. This is another area where Asian supermarkets really shine, just Google “Japanese Kit Kats” if you don’t know what I’m talking about. Here’s the thing though—as in virtually every other previous food recommendation, the modern inverted pyramid says “absolutely not” to sugars and processed sweets. In an attempt to skirt the rules, I pick up a can of something called Honey Wompee which as best I can understand is technically a fruit.
Finally, because Asian cultures do not have the same affinity for cheese in their cuisine as Westerners do, I search for a dairy based beverage, as the new pyramid puts milk— particularly whole milk —in a hallowed place near the top. I decide upon a can of something called Want Want Brand Hot-Kid Milk Flavored Drink. With my fruit and dairy parts of the meal locked up, I head over to the food court.
duck, and gyeran-mari ↓
Next up, I make my way to the food court, with a pair of eateries named Qing Hua Jiao (Chinese BBQ) and Koshi (Korean cuisine). It quickly becomes apparent that I don’t know how to order, so I seek out the assistance of a worker, who directs me to one of the ordering kiosks. After describing my mission to her, we scroll down to the meaty offerings on the menu. I decide upon a meat combo plate with BBQ pork and Peking duck, as well as an unfamiliar dish that I can only describe as an omelet with a hot dog in it (her idea, not mine). Still, outside of the rice that forms the base of the combo plate, I’m looking pretty good so far. →
↓ Hot Matt Mahoney poses with hot chili oil
It seems like the only thing I’m missing here is a solid veggie option, so I stroll on over to the Korean spot. Striking up a conversation with two workers who somehow appear to be having more fun than I am. Curious, I ask Nathan and Hani what this term “balanced meal” means to them, and I am directed to some of the traditional Korean dishes on the menu like Kimbap and Bibimbap. Indeed, it appears as if many traditional Korean dishes are crafted to be not just delicious, but also nutritious with their inclusion of starches, protein, vegetables and even some healthy fats in virtually every meal. I end up ordering a vegetarian Kimbap roll, which is not unlike a Japanese Maki roll, except with more stuff inside.
I retire to a table in the corner with my collection of nutrients now complete, and without further ado, I start to chow down. As I chew my first bite —a piece of Char siu or Cantonese BBQ pork as it is sometimes called, I am instantly reminded why meat maintains a place at the top of the pyramid. Sure, too much may kill you, and I understand some might have concerns about animal welfare but it’s also incredibly delicious. The duck part of the combo plate also proves delightful, with its crispy skin and tender meat. Next, I pop in a piece of the Kimbap Roll. The crisp snap of the veggies encased within only confirms my preconceived notions of the Koreans as an elite food culture. Turning finally to the dragon fruit, I consider my angle of attack. I’ve got nothing but a pair of chopsticks at my disposal, and
Matt Mahoney poses with a vegetarian Kimbap roll ↓
so admitting defeat, I decide to take it home for the juicer. Cracking upon my Hot-Kid Milk Flavored Drink (which sort of tastes like Yoohoo without the chocolate flavoring, if that makes any sense), I spy two of the managers—Yvonne and Jennifer—approaching.
As luck would have it, I made my visit on Lunar New Year, of all days. I half-jokingly ask the two of them if they have a hongbao for me (the traditional red envelope filled with money), only to see them actually produce one. Inside I find a gift card, which some might see as a form of bribery, but I choose to take a more optimistic angle.
While it’s likely you can find Want Want Brand Hot-Kid Milk Flavored Drink at other international markets, what Dayou offers, and so many stores don’t, or simply can’t, is the “milk of human kindness” that Shakespeare described. You can never have enough of that, folks.
Sure, you need a certain combination of nutrients to keep the body moving, but just as the body has its needs, so too does the soul. Even further, this is a recommendation that does not change with time, unlike the suggested nutrients described in the many iterations of the food pyramid.
Indeed, even when the language and cuisine might be unfamiliar, there is something unmistakably human about our desire to give and receive kindness that binds us together. With my stomach and heart full, I grab my dragonfruit and head home. ♦
