Marin Magazine September 2013

Marin

2013 PRIVATE SCHOOL GUIDE More Than 150 Listings in Marin and Beyond +

Marin’s Gateway to the Luxury Market.

MARTA penter

artist reception | sat UrDaY | september 7 | 6–8pm EXHIBITION CONTINUES THROUGH SEPTEMBER 30, 2013

50 Into the Woods Fall is here and we’ve got the latest in cozy outerwear looks.

64 Slow Medicine

Learning to listen to the voices of patients and their families.

68 The Big Swim The Tiburon Mile is a favorite with locals and swimmers from around the world.

98 2013 Private School Guide Insert

Informative articles and more than 150 private school listings.

In Marin

27 Currents Healthy lunches, On the Job, start writing, Fireman’s Fund, fi nding furniture, arm candy.

38 Q&A Simon Ungless: Larkspur’s fashion sensation.

40 Made by Marin Meet the founder of Lulu Designs.

42 FYI Volunteer tutors save the day.

46 Conversation Comedian Mort Sahl inspired a generation.

Destinations

73 Go Four ways to experience Hawaii’s outdoor beauty.

80 Journey O° the beaten path in beautiful Argentina.

Out & About

87 Calendar A roundup of what to do in Marin and beyond.

98 On the Scene Snapshots from special events in Marin and San Francisco.

100 Dine An insider’s guide to restaurants and food in the Bay Area.

104 Flavor Local ingredients shine in this snack.

Marin Home

123 Backstory World travelers find paradise in Mill Valley. COLUMNS 16 View From Marin 18 POV 154 Looking Back

PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nikki Wood

Editorial

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mimi Towle

MANAGING EDITOR Daniel Jewett

SENIOR WRITER Jim Wood

EDITOR-AT-LARGE Tim Porter

COPY EDITOR Cynthia Rubin

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Calin Van Paris

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Blair Campbell, Dawn Margolis Denberg, Laura Hilgers, Anna Schell, Richard Wheeler

Art

ART DIRECTOR Veronica Sooley

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alex French

ILLUSTRATOR Aimee Sicuro

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Sean Cope, Mo DeLong, Trinette Reed and Chris Gramly, Joseph Schell, Debra Tarrant, Ian Thurston, Nike van der Molen, Richard Wheeler

Advertising

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Corporate

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER & PRESIDENT

Richard M. Franks

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Kerri Nolan

Volume 9, Issue 9. Marin Magazine is published in Marin County by Open Sky Media. All rights reserved. Copyright©2013. Reproduction of Marin Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Open Sky Media. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed monthly to homes and businesses in Marin County. Marin (USPS 024-898) is published monthly by Open Sky Media, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965. Periodicals Postage Paid at Sausalito, CA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965.

View From Marin

SEPTEMBER IS FASHION month. For this fall’s shoot we again teamed up with the dynamic duo of photography Trinette Reed and Chris Gramly for a shoot at the stunning Ralston White Retreat in Mill Valley. The Bay Area is all about microclimates and everchanging weather patterns and that means it’s important to dress in layers. Our model, herself a Marinite, sports the cozy outerwear that will defi ne the fall season.

Features continue with a look at the new slow medicine trend and the always-popular swim event the Tiburon Mile. First, writer Blair Campbell explores what happens when patients are given more time to make informed and careful medical decisions. She talks to Mill Valley journalist Katy Butler about a New York Times Magazine article that tapped into a growing movement. Next, writer Richard Wheeler and photographer Ian Thurston introduce us to a world-class swim event that happens every September in Tiburon.

We wrap up features with several pieces by Dawn Margolis Denberg, along with our more than 150 listings, that will help you find the perfect private school for your

The Bay Area is all about microclimates and ever-changing weather patterns and that means it’s important to dress in layers.

child. If you are considering this option, the time to get started is sooner than you think.

In the front of the book we introduce you to healthy school lunches and talk to fashion superstar Simon Ungless, jewelry superstar Stacy King, the tutoring superstars of the Marin County School Volunteers program and the just plain superstar Mort Sahl.

In Destinations, we ride along with newlyweds Anna and Joseph Schell as they discover the back roads of Argentina, while Mimi Towle invites you to discover Hawaii’s adventurous side.

So sit back, enjoy the September issue and don’t forget to pull out those scarves and jackets — fall is almost here.

Marin Magazine Staff Editors

Summer Destinations

one of those behemoths dig a bow into the bay, your heart skips a beat.

EAmerica’s Cup Village on Marina Green is the best place to view the huge boats competing. And man, do they race!

JIM WOOD

Despite bad press, the America’s Cup is by far the best bet for entertainment. BY

VERY SUMMER, I describe four or five places to take visiting relatives. This year there’s only one: the America’s Cup spectacle on San Francisco’s Embarcadero and at Marina Green.

Okay, the America’s Cup has gotten bad press — too few teams, too much money, etc. — but don’t believe everything you read. And trust me, no one asked (or told) me to write this. I’ve visited both sites and they’re about more than just sailing. These are fun spots to, well, hang out. Best yet, entrance to both viewing spots is free.

America’s Cup Village on Marina Green is the best place to view the huge boats competing. And man, do they race! As you sit in comfortable grandstand seats, the seventon boats zip in front of you going, literally, faster than the wind. Adding to the thrill are two 30-foot Jumbotrons, so you can see the action live, then glance at a screen and catch intricate close-ups.

Jumbotron feeds come from helicopters and from cameras mounted on the boats. It’s amazing. You see the 11 crew members bouncing from hull to hull and, thanks to NBC’s engaging play-by-play commentary and special effects on the screen, you understand what America’s Cup racing is all about. I loved it. During the finals (September 7–21), grandstand seats will start at $60; until then they’re free.

Also at America’s Cup Village on Marina Green are radio-controlled sailboats and in flated bouncing surfaces for kids and a snazzy outdoor cafe where adults can grab a sandwich and a glass of wine. Though admission is free, nothing is done on the cheap. Final note: Labeling America’s Cup racing as NASCAR for yachts has validity. When you see

Currently, most of the action is at America’s Cup Park at Piers 27/29, midway between the Ferry Building and Fisherman’s Wharf (take a ferry, it’s a great way to go; no parking worries). And again, admission is free. Frankly, I get a kick out of opulence — and it’s definitely here. Among the superyachts tied up are Larry Ellison’s 288-foot Musashi; nearby is Asahi, his 171-foot sailboat. Keep walking and the pier jutting into the bay is the racecourse’s finish line.

Again, numerous Jumbotrons keep you apprised of the action on the bay; plus there are sports boutiques (check out the bar and cafe atop the Puma clothing shop) and indoor/ outdoor refreshment venues where the peoplewatching is world class. Fair warning: Food and drink are pricey, but the surroundings — music, games, exhibits and accommodations — are all top of the line (and free). The complex also includes the 9,000-seat America’s Cup Pavilion, where Sting, the Doobie Brothers, the San Francisco Symphony and Cheech and Chong have already appeared; Marin’s Sammy Hagar and the Wabos will be there on Saturday night, September 17th.

Oops, almost forgot — the races: September 1–4 is the Red Bull Youth America’s Cup involving 10 national teams with crews of 19- to 24-year-olds sailing the smaller but still humongous AC45 boats (the town of Tiburon is sponsoring the team representing America). On September 7, the big boys go at it for two weeks: two races a day. My money is on Emirates Team New Zealand to win the Louis Vuitton Cup and sail against defending champ Oracle Team USA in the fi nals. Oracle will take it all, which could mean the America’s Cup will be coming back to San Francisco in the future.

Despite some setbacks, the Bay Area is fortunate to be hosting the America’s Cup; it’s a 162-year-old sporting event that’s a true 21stcentury spectacle. That’s my point of view. What’s yours?

Email pov@marinmagazine.com.

MILL VALLEY FALL ARTS FESTIVAL

September 21–22, 10 a.m.–5 p.m.

Old Mill Park, 325 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley

The 57th Mill Valley Fall Arts Festival will showcase more than 140 fine artists from close by and across the county in the beautiful redwood grove at Old Mill Park. The juried works include prints, jewelry, paintings, woodwork, photography and sculpture. The festival is rated one of the top 10 fine arts and crafts shows in the Northwest and offers children’s entertainment and exceptional live music including blues by Lisa Kindred and jazz by Dave Getz.

$10 general, $5 seniors and students, free for kids under 12

415.381.8090, mvfaf.org

[UPCOMING EVENTS]

ANGELS BY THE BAY

October 4, 6 p.m.

The Meadow Club, 1001 Bolinas Road, Fairfax

The sixth annual Angels by the Bay gala kicks off with wine tasting from renowned California wineries. Enjoy hors d’oeuvres, cosmo fountains, a gourmet dinner with wine pairings and live music while browsing the silent auction. A live auction delivers one-of-akind experiences. After dinner, relax in the cut-and-light cigar bar, compliments of Telford’s Pipe & Cigar, and dance the night away with DJ Richard Habib. Proceeds benefit Angels by the Bay and its efforts to serve adults and people with disabilities in Marin County.

$150 per person; $1,250 to sponsor a table of 10

415.459.6245, ext. 17, marincil.org

Friend us to share RSVP Hot Ticket photos at facebook.com/marinmagazine

October 26, 5:30 p.m.–10 p.m.

Marin Art & Garden Center, 30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Ross

Help kick off Marin Symphony’s 61st season with an elegant James Bond–themed affair including, dinner, dancing and a raffle. Guests will also enjoy a special appearance by opening concert guest artist Van Cliburn gold medalist Jon Nakamatsu. The inspired gathering takes place on the evening before the From Russia With Love concerts, which begin the 2013–14 season.

$195 per person; $390 per couple; $1,950 table of 10

415.479.8100, marinsymphony.org/61st-gala

yogaworks

SUSHI

No Room for Broom

Your Letters

Bay Area events you’ll want to attend

STEPPING OUT TO CELEBRATE LIFE

September 28, 5:30 cocktails, 7 p.m. dinner

Marin Center Exhibit Hall, 10 Avenue of the Flags, San Rafael

The highlight of the annual Stepping Out gala is an emotional and inspirational fashion show featuring breast cancer survivors as models. This year features 36 models including two men. Attendees will celebrate to the theme of Viva Las Vegas with casino games, a gourmet dinner catered by McCalls, silent and live auctions and dancing to the Richard Olsen orchestra. The evening raises funds in support of To Celebrate Life Breast Cancer Foundation’s grants program. $225 tocelebratelife.org, info@tocelebratelife.org WHEN WHERE

Friend us to share and view RSVPHot Ticket photosat facebook.com/marinmagazine

Want to see all the images from our RSVPHot Ticket events? marinmagazine.com/hotticket

Thank you for your informative article on the dangers˜of invasive broom (POV, “Battling Broom” May 2013). One solution for eradicating broom you didn’t mention is the weed wrench, invented by a Golden Gate National Recreation Area Habitat Restoration Team alumnus. I have one, and I have pulled up more than 10,000 plants on my property and neighboring fire trail — some plants as high as˜15 feet — with ease.˜Pulling broom is˜one of˜the most˜enjoyable and therapeutic activities I’ve ever done. When I look at the piles of dead broom I’ve created at the end of the day my heart soars with satisfaction. When I see˜native plants˜returning to an˜area that˜was once choked with broom I˜feel like I’m atoning in a small way for my own

environmental impact. It’s also a great workout. I feel sorry for all the gym rats slogging away in such meaningless drudgery on treadmills — they should get a weed wrench and start pulling.

CHARLOTTE SANDERS, HONEY FARM, TAM VALLEY

Jim Wood, I loved your article about Scotch broom. Something I’ve battled at my home and our lakes for the past 40 years. Thanks for all the great advice.˜I’ve got a plan now to handle the overwhelming flower and contain it as much as possible.˜I thank you so much for making Marin Magazine truly of the people and for the people. Thanks for reflecting back the real reasons we are all drawn together — yes, beauty, nature and peacefulness, but also the betterment of the planet. CAROL FABRIC, VIA EMAIL

What

your favorite places to shop for back-to-school clothes?

“H&M and Old Navy.”

Carol Pott

“H&M, Proof Lab, REI, 101 Surf.”

Alexis Cohen

“Canal Alliance is collecting back-to-school items for students.”

First Five Marin

“PacSun at Northgate.”

Deborah Churchill Luster

“Proof Lab, Mill Valley.”

Nancy Chapluk Zadoff

No doubt you will receive numerous howls of protest over your suggested use of chemicals to control Scotch broom in the Mount Tamalpais watershed. Feel free to remind readers of the alternative: pulling each plant out, with the roots, one at a time, over 30 acres, every winter for the next seven years. I’ll sign up for the lower part of Yolanda Trail near Phoenix Lake. I was horrified to find the meadow overtaken by headhigh broom last summer during a run. Any takers?

KATHY ASTROMOFF, SAN RAFAEL

Toughest Tests

I very much like your magazine but I was sorry to see on page 62 (“Editors’ Choice,” August 2013) that Marin’s Toughest Tests did not include the Marin Century bicycle ride. As you know, the Bay Area has a very large cycling community and Marin County has been hosting this ride for 51 years. The ride has been rated No. 1 in Northern California for years now. About eight years ago they adde d a fi fth route option for folks who ride 200 miles in one day. Marin’s Toughest Test by far. BRUCE BELL, VIA EMAIL

Cleaning Update

Regarding Jim Wood’s article “Cleaning Up Marin’s Act” (POV, April 2013), readers should know the organization we started, Marin Clean Highways, has achieved several successes. Thanks to a $5,000 grant from supervisor Kathrin Sears, we’ve hired a Marin contractor to clear litter on a monthly basis f rom Tiburon Boulevard south on the Highway 101 frontage road in Strawberry. We have also secured $500 from Goodman Building Supply and another $200 from In-NOut Burger. Also, at our urging, county crews cleared several hundred feet of nonnative fennel from inside the fence on the freeway’s eastern side. We plan to do more, but that will take additional funds. If you like Marin’s roadsides litter-free, contact Marin Clean Highways. VICKY DEHNERT, MILL VALLEY

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Your comments may be edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine , One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965, or email us at letters@marinmagazine com . Please include the town where you live and a daytime phone number.

BE RESCUED FROM THE DOLDRUMS

Thank you to all our loyal Clients, Friends and Community who continue to support us while we are undergoing our transformation. We will rise to be more magnificent and bring you new, state-of-the-art treatments and products in our brand-new, gorgeous spa. Join us on Facebook and sign up to be on our e-mail list at www.evo-spa.com for updates and details about our super grand re-opening coming soon!

Lots of Love, Gail

In Marin

CELEBRATING THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND CAUSES OF THIS UNIQUE COUNTY

A HEALTHY LUNCH BOX

School lunches are getting a makeover all across the nation with a shift to more fruits, vegetables and whole grains. Lynda Balslev, a Marin-based food writer and recipe developer, puts a local spin on the healthy lunch box, creating three easy, nutritious and locally sourced bento-box-style recipes for back to school. MIMI TOWLE

In Marin / CURRENTS

HUMMUS DIP

1 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

¼ cup tahini

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small garlic clove

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

dash of Tabasco or hot sauce

Place all the ingredients in a food processor. Process until smooth. If too thick, add warm water, 1 tablespoon at a time, to achieve desired consistency. Serve with sliced cucumber and carrots. For a sandwich option serve in mini pita pockets with cucumber, red onions and lettuce.

QUINOA FRUIT SALAD

1 cup hulled, quartered strawberries

1 cup fresh pineapple chunks

1 kiwi, peeled, halved, sliced

½ cup blueberries

¼ cup cooked quinoa

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon runny honey or maple syrup

Place the fruit and quinoa in a bowl. Add lemon juice and honey and stir to combine.

Write On

STRAWBERRY THERMOS-SMOOTHIE

1 cup sliced strawberries

½ cup vanilla yogurt, such as Straus Family Creamery ¼ cup fresh orange juice

Place ingredients in a food processor or blender. Process or blend until smooth.

FROMAGE BLANC AND SALAMI SANDWICHES

2 slices whole grain or levain bread

2–3 tablespoons fromage blanc, such as Bellwether Farms

4 slices dry Italian salami, such as Columbus

1 bunch arugula leaves

Spread the cheese on one slice of the bread. Top with salami, arugula and remaining bread half. Cut sandwich in half or quarters. For a vegetarian option, substitute sliced strawberries for the salami.

In this fast-paced, tech-driven world, it’s easy to get caught up in the daily rat race. Fortunately, writing coach and author Karen Benke insists, this stress can be alleviated through the simple, old-time art of pen-on-paper writing. With her new interactive book Leap Write In!, Benke challenges everyone from tweens to adults to cut the cords of their gadgetry and pick up a pen, even if it’s for as little as 20 minutes. “I like to remind my experimental writing students that the hand’s connected to the arm, arm to shoulder, and shoulder to — heart,” says Benke, who previously published Rip the Page! for the eight- to ten-year-old set. Much like reading, she says, creative writing offers an escape from the real world and a chance to calm overstimulated nerves. If you need some help getting started, put down the iPad and reach for Benke’s book. karenbenke.com CALIN VAN PARIS

Being voted the #1 Mega-Ship Cruise Line in the Travel + Leisure 2013 World’s Best Awards readers’ survey is no small feat, but it’s something we live up to every day, on every sailing, aboard every one of our 11 stunning ships. We offer modern, upscale vacations to more than 260 global destinations across all seven continents.

Because we believe every moment of your vacation should be measured by just how far it takes you from the ordinary.

That’s modern luxury. SM

Experience it at celebritycruises.com/sf

To book, call us at 1-888-456-7887 or contact your travel agent.

Alaska • Asia • Australia/New Zealand • Bermuda • Caribbean • Europe • Galapagos • South America

Modern Luxury is a trademark of Celebrity Cruises Inc. ©2013 Celebrity Cruises Inc. Ships’ registry: Malta and Ecuador.

Up in Smoke

Cigar and pipe smokers find a refuge in smoke-free Marin.

Brian Telford did a tour in Vietnam, returned to Marin, went to work in the Strawberry Village tobacco shop his dad bought in 1970 and never left. Today, Telford is the only tobacconist in Marin. In the 2,370-square-foot store fronting Highway 101, he and his wife, Susan, sell premium cigars, pipes and accessories as well as hosting a private lounge for tobacco aficionados. How did you get started? BRIAN: I learned about the product from my brother, my father and what I read. Your favorite cigar? The Davidoff Aniversario #3. It has a flavor and taste like it’s been in a wine cellar for 100 years. Smooth. How many types of cigars do you sell? 2,300. SUSAN: If you can’t find it at Telford’s, it’s going to be pretty hard to find it anywhere. It seems overwhelming. How do you help a neophyte? BRIAN: You ask questions. What have you tried? Mild, medium or strong? Then you find out what size they like. Maybe something as small as a pencil, maybe as thick as your thumb. How long would you like to enjoy it? A five-inch cigar lasts about 45 minutes, a seven-inch cigar lasts well over an hour. That’s a bit of a commitment. Certainly, in time, but it’s something done socially, with friends usually, in an atmosphere where you’re relaxed. These are not corner store cigars, are they? No, that’s the so-called mass-market product, which I don’t sell. What I sell in here is 100 percent tobacco and all hand-rolled. Is that pricey? It’s labor intensive. But the value comes through in the flavor and the taste. Average price for a premium cigar?

MANAGER THOMAS BROCK: Right now, $8 to $12 is what we would call an everyday smoke, a golf course cigar. SUSAN: We have a high-rent district up there. We can go from $35 to $100 — for one stick, to be burned, up in smoke. How often does the average cigar smoker indulge? We talk about this as a hobby, not habit, so when people come together for reasons of celebration and community, what do they do? They enjoy a cigar. You have a baby, what do you do? You hand out cigars. You close a deal, what do you do? You get a cigar. Any trends? Pipes are moving from being a personal thing to being a social thing. People in their 20s and 30s today, including women, who know the good aspects of tobacco, are enjoying pipes together. How is business? BRIAN: The answer to that is how many times I’ve opened and closed stores. This is my ninth location. We’re in the best spot we’ve ever had. We’re a freestanding lot that allows us to be away from those who don’t appreciate what we do. All of sudden we’ve become very, very popular this year. Final comments?

SUSAN: Brian’s middle name is Mr. Cigar. On the tennis court he is “Hey, Cigar, good shot!” TIM PORTER

HOW TO LIGHT A CIGAR Telford’s manager Thomas Brock explains: Hold the cigar at a 45-degree angle. Hold the flame away from the foot of the cigar. Toast the end, which heats the tobacco and gives you a bit of foreplay, the aroma. It’s like letting wine breathe. When you see some smoke, draw it into your mouth and light the entire foot. It’s very important that you light the entire foot because a partially lit foot won’t burn evenly.

INSURING THE PAST, AND THE FUTURE Fireman’s Fund, a name long respected in the insurance industry and a company located in Marin County for the past 30 years, is currently celebrating its sesquicentennial. The firm, located on 63 acres in northernmost Novato on the west side of Highway 101, is a leader in high net worth, entertainment and green insurance. JIM WOOD BY THE NUMBERS

750 Approximate number of Fireman’s Fund employees in Marin, making it the county’s fifth largest employer. Nationwide the figure is 2,700.

1863 The year the company was founded in San Francisco.

12 The number of Academy Award Best Picture winners insured by Fireman’s Fund.

$120,000 The amount of grant money awarded to the Marin County Fire Department as part of the company’s Heritage Program. Nationwide grants total $30 million.

3 The number of buildings, the last two completed in 1991, that make up Fireman’s Fund’s Novato campus. The total square footage is 710,330.

$3,100,000,000 The amount paid by Allianz, a century-old German insurance conglomerate, to acquire Fireman’s Fund in 1991. Allianz is the 28th largest corporation in the world.

88 The combined number of years the Bettini family — Cesare, Paul, Brian and now Andrew — have been Fireman’s Fund insurance agents in San Rafael.

CLICK TILL YOU DROP Have an unhealthy obsession with furniture shopping? Do you browse fab.com, onekingslane.com and saraslist.com on a daily basis? Good news: there’s a new URL to add to your bookmarks — chairish.com. Created right over the bridge, with plenty of Marin ties, the website curates an online showroom of gently used designer furniture. Next up: as soon as this newly renovated property at 190 Harrison Street is sold (pictured), everything not nailed down will be available online. chairish.com M.T.

Marin Country Club

14k gold Mini Mt. Tam charm bracelet with .03ct diamond, $2,450, at Stephan-Hill Jewelry Designers (San Rafael), 415.459.5808.

Arm Candy

A girl can never have too many jewels, so why not make it an arm party? These bracelets and watches are meant for stacking, so pile them on. VERONICA SOOLEY

GraffStar 30mm watch with a rose gold faceted face and buckle on a white crocodile strap, price upon request, at Graff (SF), 415.926.7000.

Cognac diamond bangle in 18k rose gold, price upon request at Kathleen Dughi (Mill Valley), 415.383.0462.

Arm Candy

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 34

TIPS FOR STACKING:

• Start with a thicker bracelet or watch as the foundation and build from there

• Stick to one kind of metal (silver, gold, rose gold)

• Variety is key. Mix in some medium width and thin bracelets to complement your foundation bracelet

• Keep the rest of the outfit simple so it doesn’t compete with the bracelets

415.435.2484 and shopdeleuse.com.

415.925.0109.

Moroccan Tile Enamel Bracelet by Tommy Bahama, $36, at Tommy Bahama (Corte Madera), 415.737.0400 and tommybahama.com.

Two-tone trio of bangle bracelets (from top to bottom): 22k yellow and 14k rose gold, $3,400; 18k yellow and 14k white gold, $3,295; and 14k rose and white gold, $2,725, at Union Street

INTRODUCING UCSF BENIOFF CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL AT MARIN GENERAL HOSPITAL.

Children are special, and not just because we love them—their medical needs are specialized too. That’s why Marin General Hospital has teamed up with UCSF Benioff Children’s Hospital to offer Marin families the finest pediatric care available. Now, you have access to the expertise of a renowned pediatric hospital closer to home. UCSF Benioff Children’s Hospital at Marin General Hospital is a powerful collaboration that includes:

• UCSF neonatologists onsite at MGH

• A specialty clinic including experts in pediatric cardiology, gastroenterology, neurology, pulmonology, orthopedics and eating disorders

• A prenatal diagnostic center staffed with specialists in high-risk obstetrics

• Access to all the resources of a top-ranked children’s hospital

11 QUESTIONS FOR

Simon Ungless

Director of Fashion

With back-to-school shopping on the minds of many, now is the perfect time to learn about this fashion-minded local. If you haven’t heard of Simon Ungless, you are in for a treat. Allow us to introduce you to a veritable force of the fashion world who resides quietly (most of the time) in Larkspur. A former roommate of and frequent collaborator with designer Alexander McQueen in London in the ’90s, Ungless made his way to the West Coast in 1996 to become director of fashion at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco, where the program enrollment has grown from 200 to more than 2,600. MIMI TOWLE

1

Favorite fabric for this fall? I ’m going to be rocking corduroy this fall. Washed and softened.

2

If you were to make a suit for Barack Obama, what color/fabric would you use? Prince William? Prince Harry? Tony Blair? Barack Obama in charcoal vicuna. Prince William in black melton; it tailors beautifully and will give a very powerful shoulder. Prince Harry in navy worsted. The dark blue is perfect for the touch of redness in his hair. Tony Blair in a straight jacket.

3

Opera/Symphony season is coming up — anything the ladies and/or men should not wear? W hat color is definitely in? No fur, ever. None of those hideous skirts that are both long and short at the same time. No amusing printed shirts on men — ever. There is no one color that is in; it’s all about wearing graphic, large-scale stripes in multi colors. Think Dior couture. Fabric is much more important than color. Bands of contrasting fabrics, unexpected textures put together.

4 Why Marin? My first weekend in S.F. back in 1996, a friend took me for a drive; we got coffee in Mill Valley and then took Highway 1 to Point Reyes. I fell in love instantly with the coast — plus I get to drive over the Golden Gate Bridge twice a day; I never get tired of that.

5

If you were to create a list of S.F. and Marin’s best dressed, who would make top five? Marka Hansen. Head to toe, the most stylish person in Marin. Epitomizes lifestyle chic. Gladys Perint Palmer (San Rafael), as she has amazing pieces and finds in her wardrobe. Tatiana Sorokko (Mill Valley) has impeccable taste. Julie Chaiken (Tiburon) knows how to dress the modern woman. Toni Wolfson (Mill Valley) is one of the nicest and chicest women I know.

6

Favorite food, and where you like to eat it? India Palace Restaurant in Mill Valley — I’m addicted to vindaloo. India Palace is the only place I have found that can make it spicy enough for me. It’s a non-share meal.

7 Do you have a favorite guilty-pleasure fashion TV show? A nything with Lisa Vanderpump.

8

Favorite fashion blogs? Stylebubble. com.uk. Suzy Bubble finds the things others are too lazy to look for. And fashionschooldaily.com.

9

Thoughts on Marin style? It’s about freedom. Mixing chic with lifestyle. Making up your own rules, as there aren’t any. Travel finds mixed with heirlooms mixed with Union Made. What’s amazing right now are the teens in Fairfax. They all look like they came off of Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent runway.

10

Advice to tweens on finding their own style?  R eact against things. That’s what we did. Make your own clothes. Don’t blend into the crowd; there’s plenty of time to do that later. Oh, and please, no more purple hair — we did that in 1977; it’s not so interesting.

11

Advice to tweens’ moms? Mothers! What are you thinking? I see way too many way-too-short skirts and shorts in Marin on way-too-young girls. And say no to the nude colors. Your daughters look naked. For guys, take him to Union Made for shirts and educate him on the finer things in life. You’ll set him up for life. m

Proven

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STACY KING IS a lover of all things artistic. After 10 years as an avid ceramicist, she was forced by pregnancy to step away from her wheel and pursue what would become her life’s work: jewelry making. King is the founder of Lulu Designs, a fashion jewelry line based in Sausalito. The close-knit, all-women team made the move from King’s garage last year. PHILOSOPHY The brand’s moniker comes from King’s middle name, Louise, and the logo’s accompanying lotus flower is a metaphor for beauty rising through the depths of darkness — lotuses grow naturally in toxic waters. Symbolism and meaning are big for King, who insists that each piece has an individual meaning and inspiration and is representative of the Lulu community that produced it. THE SCOOP With price points starting at around $90, Lulu can be found in a slew of Bay Area boutiques and all across the country. “The thing that’s so di° erent about jewelry, versus apparel, is that any woman of any size and stature can wear it,” she says. BEYOND MARIN King’s penchant for traditional jewelry making, and her use of recycled metal in her designs, recently led to a collaboration with New York’s ABC Carpet & Home and Deepak Chopra, who are working to highlight artisans focused on sustainability. WHAT’S NEXT King plans to launch Lulu Luxe, an o° shoot of Lulu Designs that will focus exclusively on sustainably crafted fi ne jewelry. WHAT THEY SAY “Jewelry is about celebrating our soul and the beauty inside us,” says King. “These beauties and gems and precious metals come from the earth and celebrate the beauty of life.” luludesignsjewelry.com CALIN VAN PARIS

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Lending a Hand

When school funding steps out, volunteers step in.

BY CALIN VAN PARIS • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

IMAGINE GOING BACK to middle school. Not in the figurative, time-travel sense, but today, as yourself. Crowded halls, adolescent mentalities — the whole nine yards. If you’re assuming you would feel like an outsider and would rather avoid the experience altogether, one hour with Bob Rosenberg might make you think again. At 67, Rosenberg, a retired endodontist and former professor at UCSF, is one of nearly 600 adult and student tutors participating in the Marin County School Volunteers program, a countywide initiative to provide kids from preschool through high school with a helping hand in the demanding world of pre-collegiate academia.

“I cannot think of anything that is more real, more connected to our community and more important than giving every one of

our kids the chance to succeed in school and to be prepared for what comes after,” says Rosenberg, who serves as board president of the organization in addition to being an active volunteer at Davidson Middle School in San Rafael. Davidson plays host to a dozen tutors and is just one of the 46 public schools — more than half of the 76 in the county — enjoying the aid of volunteers. And with budget cuts continuing to bring hurdles ranging from larger classes to smaller sta ffs, the need for volunteers is greater than ever.

Founded in 1997 by former Kent field and Tamalpais Union High School District board member Joan Brownstein, MCSV originally consisted of just 40 volunteers i n five schools. Although its membership has grown over the years, the demand for volunteers continues

to surpass the supply. “We are looking to triple our numbers over the nex t five years and increase the number of schools in which we are involved by three per year,” says Rosenberg. “We need to be in every Marin public school. We’re simply not going to be content with anything less.” With orientations and workshops for tutor support and an extremely flexible volunteer schedule — the

majority of volunteers spend one to three hours per week in the classroom — MCSV aims to build a community of tutors large enough to participate wherever and whenever help is asked for. More volunteers would enable MCSV to offer additional after-school and summer school programs, and with

I cannot think of anything that is more real, more connected to our community and more important than giving every one of our kids the chance to succeed in school and to be prepared for what comes after.

greater numbers, movement between schools and classrooms would be optional but unnecessary, allowing tutors to create and foster long-term relationships with other volunteers, schools and teachers.

While the need for volunteer tutors is prevalent in the most and least a ffluent areas alike, certain students benefit in more tangible ways than others. At schools like San Pedro Elementary in San Rafael, children often enter preschool having spent their childhood in a Spanish-speaking household where English is rarely, if ever, spoken. “Reading to them, helping them learn the alphabet, and simply speaking to them in English has a transformative effect,” says Judy Katsin, who assumed the role of executive director when Brownstein “retired” in 2008 (at 81, she still volunteers at Laurel Dell Elementary School).

In addition to the social and academic language barrier, a number of students in the San Rafael area live under the same roof with an entire extended family, making fi nding a quiet place to study at home an impossibility. “Perhaps the biggest challenge I feel as a volunteer is bearing witness to the socioeconomic and cultural issues that isolate and impede the students’ rightful progress,” says Loryn Sweet-Winer, a trained social worker, mom and volunteer tutor. “Volunteering is critical and necessary, but the societal structures that are in place make progress di fficult for these kids.” Tutors note that while their efforts may not make up for these

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disadvantages, working one-on-one or in small groups provides a kind of learning that a large classroom cannot. “For kids, knowing that someone else is interested in their success and holds hopes and aspirations for them is hugely a ffi rmative,” adds Katsin.

Volunteer tutors aren’t required to have a teaching background, though many of them do. Most opt to work with younger children to avoid challenging classes like algebra, and those willing to revisit a subject occasion-

We need to be in every Marin public school. We’re simply not going to be content with anything less.

ally need to brush up before meeting with students. Ultimately, it seems that tutoring is less about pairing students with an academic expert than it is about fi nding someone who is invested in the child’s success and willing to spend the time to work through problems until the lesson becomes clear.

Those involved in MCSV insist that for all the time they give to the kids, they’re the ones who reap the benefits. “The joyous support one gets from the children, their parents, the teacher and the school has made this experience tremendously satisfying,” says Ron Zimmerman, a volunteer at San Pedro. “I feel as if I’ve gotten back much more than I’ve given.” m

• For more information, or to find out how to get involved, call 415.499.5896 or visit mcsv.org.

Mort Sahl

The 86-year-old performer’s step may have slowed, but his mind is still racing. BY

JIM WOOD • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

TELL ANYONE OVER 50 that Mort Sahl lives in Mill Valley and you’re in for a double take and a good 20 minutes of gab. Sahl, a legendary comedian of the early Johnny Carson era, got his start back in 1953 at the hungry i nightclub in North Beach. He famously played all the big rooms across the country, including Mister Kelly’s in Chicago. Particularly lauded for his political humor, he might be most famous for the line that, “President Washington couldn’t tell a lie; President Nixon couldn’t tell the truth; and President Reagan couldn’t tell the di fference.”

Everyone has a Mort Sahl story. But to hear the man himself tell it, well, it’s not that captivating. He was born Morton Lyon Sahl on May 11, 1927, in Montreal, to an American dad and a Canadian mom. Prior to World War II, the family moved to Los Angeles, where Sahl was in his high school’s ROTC unit; then he served his active duty at an army air base in Alaska. Back in civilian life, in 1950 Sahl graduated from, of all places, USC. And he majored in, of all things, tra ffic engineering and city management. And that’s where things get interesting.

How did your career get started? By day I was living at home and I was hanging out in L.A. jazz joints by night. Jerry Mulligan, Dave Brubeck, Chet Baker, Stan Kenton, I got to know them all. I also had a girlfriend who was heading up to Cal to study psychology. So I tagged along with her and was talking and telling jokes all along the way. Then in 1953, she told me to go tell my funny stories at “one of those North Beach nightclubs.” So I did; they liked it and it was going OK but not great. Then one day someone wrote Herb Caen at the Chronicle and said if he was really Mr. San Francisco he should be writing about this young comic at the hungry i in North Beach. Herb started coming to my shows, we became friends, he wrote about me, and crowds came to see me. Oh, and I never told Herb the letter writer was my mother.

What happened next? In 1960, I appeared on an Ed Sullivan television special and was on the cover of Time magazine, the first comedian to ever do that. That same year, Joseph P. Kennedy hired me to write campaign gags for his son, John F. Kennedy, who was running for president. Then I was in some movies, recorded the first comedy record and started appearing on television shows with guys like Dick Cavett, Johnny Carson and Merv Griffin. Years ago, Jonathan Winters — I think he’s the greatest comic ever — and I got rejected from the same show. Woody Allen says he wouldn’t have done

stand-up if it weren’t for me. And Woody and Dick Cavett came to the show I did last June at the Carlyle Hotel in Manhattan. It was wonderful to catch up with them.

What’s in your future? In November I’ll be interviewed on a two-hour Tom Brokaw/NBC special on the 50th anniversary of the assassination of President Kennedy. They think I know a thing or two about the way Kennedy was killed. In the late 1960s, I put my career on hold for 10 years to work with New Orleans DA Jim Garrison on what I felt was the only truthful investigation into the assassination. One perpetrator, Clay Shaw, was indicted and brought to trial, but he was acquitted. Jim Garrison was the most courageous man I ever met. He stood 6 feet 7 inches tall, had a baritone voice and was relentless in seeking the truth.

In your mind, how and why was the president killed? Why? Easy, it’s because he was going to withdraw U.S. troops from Vietnam. He also

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Pipes & Pumps

As President of Marin Roto-Rooter, Mendy works in a profession run largely by men. “It can be a challenge,” says Mendy. “But knowhow and candor carry the day, regardless of whether you’re a woman or man.” That Mendy carries herself with style and grace is a tribute to her confidence and 16 years of executive experience. “Over time I’ve discovered,” laughs Mendy, “that running a household is not all that different than running a business. Sometimes you have to be a boss, sometimes a mentor, sometimes a friend. But you always do your best to “be there,” whether it’s for your children, your clients, your staff, or your friends.”

Mendy’s sense of commitment extends to the community.

Under her direction, Marin Roto-Rooter sponsors local school and sports programs including San Rafael Pacifics Baseball Club. She actively participates in fundraising efforts for many worthy organizations including Marin Humane Society, Marin Human Race, Sunny Hills Services, Family Giving Tree, Boys & Girls Clubs of Marin and Sonoma Counties, North Bay Children’s Center and Susan G. Komen for the Cure San Francisco Bay Area, dedicating a percentage of company profits during breast cancer awareness month.

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wanted to resume relations with Cuba and end the Cold War with the Russians. The CIA and the military didn’t like any of those ideas. Now, how did they do it? The legal definition of conspiracy is two or more men working for the same goal and that’s what they did. These guys had ties to the highest levels of our government. So the intelligence agencies surreptitiously went about getting rid of Kennedy. They brought in sharpshooters from all over the world, Croatia and the Middle East. And the White House changed the parade route. There were between five and eight shooters and a backup tea m five miles down the freeway. Lee Harvey Oswald, who worked for the FBI, was involved but he was just a patsy. So was Jack Ruby. All of it was well thought out and well planned. They wanted to get rid of Kennedy because he was a peacemaker.

You spent 10 years investigating the Kennedy assassination and it had a negative effect on your career. You admit your bookings went from a million dollars a year down to $15,000 a year. Do you regret those years? Absolutely not — I sought the truth and asked questions. It was the richest part of my life — but they made me pay for it. If anyone wants to read about it, I wrote a book in 1976 called Heartland. The whole story is there.

Do you have any regrets? I regret that my marriages didn’t last. Women don’t know it — well, maybe they do — but they make life happen. They are so much smarter than guys. I was married to three remarkable women and had an outstanding son who only made it to 19 years of age. Sadly, our boy died way too young. Now I live alone, and wouldn’t recommend it for anyone.

Didn’t you once live with Hugh Hefner in the Playboy mansion? Yes, within a week of when I started at the hungry i, he started his magazine with five hundred dollars borrowed from his mother. He said if he hadn’t had that nude of Marilyn Monroe he never would have sold his first magazine. He kept his doors open to America, like a real publisher. And I got him some good articles, Eugene McCarthy, Philip Roth, Justice William O. Douglas; when I got him Jim Garrison it was

the second-highest-selling issue he’d had. When the magazine was still in Chicago, I’d come home late after being at Mister Kelly’s and he’d still be up. I’d tell him what I’d been reading during the day and he’d process all of it. He was a really curious guy. I probably did 30 of his television shows and, when I married China Lee, the Playboy Bunny, he gave us our honeymoon in Europe. But I haven’t seen him in, what, maybe five years.

You were also good friends with Nancy and Ronald Reagan — despite your famous line about him. What were they like? I knew them very well. You know, he was a Democrat for a long time before becoming a conservative Republican. He was a hard guy to resist; he had a great sense of humor. But he really was remote for much of the time. He once told me his greatest political

In 1960,

I

appeared

on

an Ed Sullivan television special and was on the cover of Time magazine, the first comedian to ever do that.

advantage was that Democrats thought he was a dope. And he told his staff ot to contradict that impression. He said, “Their guard will be down as long as they think I can’t figure out stuff.” He didn’t care at all about his ego. Actually, I knew Nancy better. She was much more perceptive about who was a friend and who was a conniver, who was a climber and who wasn’t. So when Nancy said, “I’ve got your back,” she really meant it. Nancy was great armor for Ronnie.

Looking back over your life, what do you consider to be your greatest accomplishment? Well, you know Senator Adlai Stevenson — a two-time presidential candidate whom I admired greatly — once said, “Mort Sahl brought humor into the 20th century.” That’s not too bad. I always tried to tell what I considered to be the truth, and in a palatable way, through humor. Often they were very inconvenient truths. So I think my greatest achievement is telling the truth — and surviving. Am I now a happy camper? No. I’d say I’m a discontented citizen; make that a discontented idealist. m

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into THE WOODS

Statement outerwear layered with cozy separates provide warmth in the cool fall days.

PHOTOS Trinette Reed and Chris Gramly

EDITOR/STYLIST Veronica Sooley

ASSISTANT STYLIST Leah-Marie

HAIR & MAKEUP Mauricio Lemus/Stars Model Mgmt.

MODEL Malia/Look Model Agency

PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Garry Belinsky

ASSISTANT Calin Van Paris

SHOT at the Ralston White Retreat in Mill Valley

This Spread: Demy coat, $619, and Emmy cardigan, $549 at Oska (Mill Valley) 415.381.1144. Gwen cardigan with attached scarf, $375 at Tory Burch (SF) 415.398.1525. Billy Black Smoke pants, $198 at True Religion (SF) 415.281.3913. Dream ankle boot with belting, $550 at Freda Salvadore (SF) 415.654-5128. Elvin arm warmers, $144 at Oska. Mountain ring (sterling silver with red jasper) by Pamela Love, $670 at Rand + Statler (SF) 415.634.0881.

Opening Spread: Quilted jacket by Tommy Hilfiger, $229 at Macy’s (Corte Madera) 415.927.3333 and usa.tommy. com. Plaid woven shirt, $138 at True Religion (SF) 415.281.3913. Vintage bird print shirt by NoirNuit, $25 at etsy.com. Brigitte jeans by Won Hundred, $355 at Revolver (SF) 415.871.0665 and wonhundred.com. Earthkeepers Mosely 6-inch waterproof boot, $160 at Timberland (SF) 415.777.5830. Eske hat with pom, $104 at Oska.

This page: Shearling gilet vest by Brunello Cucinelli, $5,455, and tulle maxi skirt by Jean Paul Gaultier, $525, both at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF) 415.986.4300. Shell Druzy cuff by Margaret Elizabeth, $278 at HeidiSays Casual (SF) 415.749.1144 and margaretelizabeth.com.

Opposite, clockwise from top left: Max classic jacket by Veda, $895 at Margaret O’Leary (SF) 415.391.1010. Tank by Splendid, $40 at Saks Fifth Avenue. Sylvia jacket, $2,495, and Penelope cardigan, $425, both at Tory Burch (SF) 415.398.1525. Dunnington quilted jacket, $1,295 and knit shirt, $295, both by Burberry Brit at Saks Fifth Avenue. Peacoat Cape by MICHAEL Michael Kors, $295 at Michael Kors (SF) 415.227.0800 and michaelkors.com. Tony Luxe jeans (shown in all), $175 by True Religion (SF) 415.281.3913.

Wool melton coat with leather sleeves by J’Amy Tarr, $648 at jamytarr.com. Black wax 5-pocket skinny pant by MICHAEL Michael Kors, $150 at Michael Kors (SF) 415.227.0800. Plaid circle scarf, $99 at Tommy Hilfiger (Petaluma) 707.765.6525 and usa.tommy.com. Earthkeepers Trenton waterproof ankle boot, $180 at Timberland (SF) 415.777.5830. Rada bag by Helen Kaminski, $295 at Mill Valley Hat Box (Mill Valley) 415.383.2757. Janis earring by OK1984, $12 at ok1984.com.

This page: Camel Coco Coat by Kristinit, $575 at kristinit.com. Dress, $129 at Tommy Hilfiger (Petaluma) 707.765.6525 and usa.tommy.com. Saddalrina bag, $495 at Tory Burch (SF) 415.398.1525. Crescent Zellij Breastplate by Pamela Love, $560 at Rand + Statler (SF) 415.634.0881. Mini throw by Kashwere, $75 at kashwereathome.com.

Opposite: Fringe Blanket Poncho by MICHAEL Michael Kors, $250 at Michael Kors (SF) 415.227.0800. Inguna sweater by Won Hundred, $220 at Steven Alan (SF) 415.351.1499 and wonhundred.com. Galvin skinny cargo pant, $268 at Trina Turk (Burlingame) 650.340.8540. Christy Riding boot, $495 at Tory Burch (SF) 415.398.1525. Outback leather hat by Minnetonka Moccasin, $46 at minnetonka moccasin.com. North Star knee sock by PACT, $12 at Whole Foods Market.

This page: Crop Leather Perfecto with detachable fur vest by La Marque, $1,530 at lamarquecollection.com. Cashmere vest with leather pocket by Veda, $250 at thisisveda.com. Pleated hex print shirt by NoirNuit, $30 at etsy. com. Black wax 5-pocket skinny pant by MICHAEL Michael Kors, $150 at Michael Kors (SF) 415.227.0800. Rise tall shaft boot with removable bracelet and studded welt, $695 at Freda Salvadore (SF) 415.654-5128. No. 74 sunglasses by Cynthia Rowley, $99 at rowleyeyewear.com.

Opposite: Pagina wool/cashmere blend sweater dress, $850, and Fungo Murmansky fur collar, $595, by Max Mara (SF) 415.981.0900. Over the knee fringe suede boot by Minnetonka Moccasin, $98 at Feet First (SF) 415.885.6393.

Learning to listen to the voices of patients and families.

BY BLAIR CAMPBELL • ILLUSTRATIONS BY AIMEE SICURO

ON THE SUNDAY morning in June 2010 that her 5,000word article “What Broke My Father’s Heart: How Putting in a Pacemaker Wrecked My Family’s Life” was published in the New York Times Magazine , journalist Katy Butler threw a brunch at her Mill Valley home. It was a social treat she felt she’d more than earned, given the di˜ cult days and weeks she’d spent revisiting her father’s death and the medical interventions she believes ruined the last years of both his life and her mother’s.

Butler served salmon, grilled vegetables, cheeses, sparkling water and champagne at two tables under the fig tree in her garden, and she laughed with the close friends, fellow writers and mentors she’d brought together for the occasion. “All these people had heard me cry at some point,” says Butler — but this was a day for celebrating.

After the last of her guests had gone, Butler sat down in front of her computer and was stunned by what she saw on the screen. “It was almost like I could see my email and the Times website fi lling up,” Butler recalls of the immediate and unrelenting volume of emails and comments in response to her article. Within an hour of “What

MEDICINE Slow MEDICINE

Broke My Father’s Heart” being published online, it was the Times’ most emailed story of the day. Within three days, it had sparked 400 comments. It went on to become the fourth-most-accessed Times article of the year and was anthologized in The Best American Essays 2011 and The Best American Science Writing 2011. The article also led to a book proposal, a celebrity agent (Amanda Urban) and fi nally a book — Knocking on Heaven’s Door: The Path to a Better Way of Death — to be published by Scribner this month.

None of this would have happened if Butler’s article hadn’t resonated so deeply with so many — everyone from aging parents themselves and their children to nurses, doctors and hospice workers. But while the story Butler tells may not be an unusual one, that doesn’t detract from its poignancy. Butler’s father, Je˛ rey Butler, was an esteemed professor of history at Wesleyan University for 26 years. By his late 60s, he had retired, and within 10 years an array of medical problems began, starting with a stroke in 2001. A year after that stroke, a cardiologist charged with giving Je˛ rey preoperative clearance for hernia surgery insisted that, due to a slow heartbeat, Jeffrey would need a permanent pacemaker implanted prior to the procedure. Je˛ rey had already refused a pacemaker once, just

before his stroke, on the advice of his family physician. But now, as he was too debilitated to articulate his preferences clearly, his wife, Valerie, had to take the reins. Her decision was rushed and, consequently, uninformed. She said yes.

What followed, says Katy Butler, were years of misery as her father’s pacemaker kept him alive while his body and mind rapidly failed. And as the responsibilities of his caretaking grew ever greater, Butler’s mother began to su˜ er health problems of her own. Butler now says she and her mother were simply unaware of the right questions to ask — questions about the pros and cons of the proposed procedure, as well as possible alternatives. She later discovered that a temporary pacemaker could have gotten her father through his hernia surgery safely, but this option was never presented.

“I now see it as a ‘fast medicine’ decision at a time when I didn’t even know to think in terms of fast and slow medicine,” says Butler — by way of introduction to the slow medicine movement she now champions. A slow medicine decision at that point, she says, would have involved a careful look at the whole family, and at then 80-year-old Jeffrey Butler’s quality of life. With slow medicine, Butler explains, “You look at the timeline going forward, not just the immediate result of short-term thinking about this week, or this month. You don’t just look at the rhythm of the heart. You look at the entire person who’s holding the heart.”

The Birth of a Movement

The definition of slow medicine that appears on Butler’s website draws on the work of Dr. Dennis McCullough: “Slow Medicine supports unrushed medical decisions in the years of aging and dying and is cautious about high-tech treatments that may prolong suffering.” McCullough’s book on the topic, My Mother, Your Mother: Embracing “Slow Medicine,” the Compassionate Approach to Caring for Your Aging Loved Ones (Harper, 2008), helped Butler immensely during her family’s ordeal — and she now refers to McCullough, a geriatrician at Dartmouth Medical Center, as “my hero.”

Although McCullough is credited with being the fi rst among a growing number to write and lecture about the issue in the U.S., the movement actually shares its birthplace with the slow food movement: Italy. The fi rst published article on slow medicine, by cardiologist Alberto Dolara, appeared in an Italian cardiology journal in 2002. It marked the beginnings of a slow medicine society that held its fi rst conference in Ferrara, Italy, in June 2011.

The link between slow food and slow medicine is a strong one for another prominent slow medicine advocate: Victoria Sweet, an associate clinical professor of medicine at UCSF. Sweet’s 2012 book God’s Hotel: A Doctor, a Hospital, and a Pilgrimage to the Heart of Medicine (Riverhead) was met with rave reviews nationwide. It also earned Sweet a significant fan base in Marin — the book occupied the numbertwo spot on Marin Independent Journal ’s best-selling nonfiction list last December — where Sweet has given numerous readings. The book recounts Sweet’s 20 years as a doctor at San Francisco’s Laguna

What happened in the last 20 years is that time has been sucked out of my relationship with my patients.

Honda Hospital, a publicly funded long-term care facility. Chapter Five, titled “Slow Medicine,” explores Sweet’s belief that time — time to spend with patients and their families, to deliberate over diagnoses, and to watch how symptoms progress and how well treatments are working — is the most important element in healing.

“I know at least six people now who’ve come up with the term slow medicine completely separately,” says Sweet. “I came up with the idea about four years ago, when I was thinking about what I learned at Laguna Honda in terms of medicine. What came to me was the slow food movement. I love to cook, and the slow food movement for me is about the whole idea that it’s not just the product, but the process.”

Taking Time

For Sweet, slow medicine doesn’t have as much to do with palliative care or end-of-life issues as it does for Butler and McCullough. “It’s more about when I sit down with a patient, having enough time to do a good job,” she explains. “What happened in the last 20 years is that time has been sucked out of my relationship with my patients — except at Laguna Honda.”

Sweet says that at Laguna Honda, she discovered that making time a core value was a more efficient and effective way of

practicing medicine. “I could talk to the patient,” she recalls. “I could in particular examine the patient really thoroughly and have the time to go over all the labs, call the doctors he or she used to have, get all the stu˜ and put the whole thing together. And when I did that, I found a lot of times the initial diagnoses were wrong. And the medications, most of these they didn’t need. And when I took all those medications away and got the right diagnosis, the patients got a whole lot better.”

Her main pitch, Sweet says, is to “put free time back into medicine.

“What’s really happening is that in the interest of being e° cient, we made it impossible for doctors and nurses to fundamentally do a good job,” she continues. “If you go to an internist or your regular doctor, they’ve got something like 10 minutes to see you. And with the 10 minutes, 7 of those minutes, they’ve now shown, are spent on the computer. They’ve got three minutes to see you. You go in and say, ‘My foot hurts,’ and they’ve got three minutes. So they spend one minute talking to you and maybe one minute looking at the thing, and one minute ordering your labs and your X-rays and your MRIs and your medications, and you’re out.”

Creating Change

Sweet believes that insurance companies have made a costly miscalculation in limiting the time patients get with their primary physicians — a mistake she traces back to health care economists in the 1970s and their attempt to manage the high costs associated with physician care. Butler agrees that primary doctors need more time with their patients, and says she’d like to see the health care system move from its current emphasis on rewarding procedures to rewarding time with patients. “I think all medicine needs to move in the slow medicine direction, in the sense that we should be lobbying to get internists paid triple what they’re paid,” says Butler.

While changing pay scale would be one approach, another, supported by Butler and McCullough alike, is public education, such as o˜ ering community college courses for caregivers.

“Dennis fi nally said, ‘We’re not going to be able to change this within the medical system,’˝”recalls Butler of past discussions with McCullough. “˝‘We’re going to be able to change it by educating consumers and essentially creating a movement from the outside that pressures inward.’ And that’s my belief. It’s going to be baby-boom women and men like me who become fi rst dumbfounded, and then to some degree outraged, and then fi nally informed as to exactly what’s happened here.”

A Better Way

The final phrase in the title of Butler’s book — A Better Way of Death — does not, for her, merely represent the idealized outcome of a burgeoning movement. It represents Butler’s own reflections on her mother’s death, and how it differed from that of her father. A year after Jeffrey Butler’s memorial service, Katy Butler took her mother to see a heart surgeon. Valerie was at the time aware that she had two leaking heart valves, and she was considering her

cardiologist’s recommendation of open-heart surgery. After listening carefully to all that the heart surgeon had to say about survival rates with and without the surgery and the risks associated with the procedure — including the potential for cognitive decline — her decision was made. She said no.

While Butler’s Times Magazine article focused primarily on her father’s ordeal, Knocking on Heaven’s Door gives much more attention to her mother, including one particularly moving passage on the temptation to second-guess after her mother’s passing.

It could have been too much self-administered morphine or too little potassium. It could have been the stress of the cardiac catheterization. It could have been getting up and making martinis for the people who stopped by to see her. In the end, does it matter?

She died of old age, sickness and death. She died of a heart calcified and broken by six years of nonstop caregiving. She died of being eighty-four. She was continent and lucid to her end. She took back her body from her doctors. She died the death she chose, not the death they had in mind.

“We act as though we have to pussyfoot and coddle people around talking about the imminence of death. And I think people have more inner resources than we really give them credit for,” says Butler today. “I’m not saying these are easy conversations,” she adds — stopping short as she recalls those interactions with her mother. “She was easy. She was easy because she was who she was, and she was so blunt as a human being from day one anyway. And like me, she was a Buddhist, and so there’s a real highly held value about facing reality as it is. And allowing change. And allowing loss.” m

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

ˆ Katy Butler will read from Knocking on Heaven’s Door at Book Passage in Corte Madera on September 11 at 7 p.m. and at Berkeley Arts & Letters on September 12 at 7:30 p.m.

ˆ Victoria Sweet’s book God’s Hotel received the Gold Medal in nonfiction at the 82nd Annual California Book Awards. It’s now available in paperback at area bookstores and on Amazon.

ˆ For additional personal perspectives on slow medicine and end-of-life issues, see Michael Wolfe’s May 2012 piece “A Life Worth Ending: A Son’s Plea to Let His Mother Go,” which appeared in New York magazine, and Lisa Krieger’s San Jose Mercury News article “The Cost of Dying: It’s Hard to Reject Care Even as Costs Soar,” which examined her father’s “$323,000 ICU death” at Stanford Hospital.

ˆ For an additional local perspective, visit slowmedicine.info — the website of Dr. Ladd Bauer, a general practitioner and slow medicine advocate based in Point Reyes Station. Bauer also runs a slow medicine–oriented practice, consulting with patients about particular health problems and helping them find the best path forward. He can be reached at slowmed@gmail.com.˜

ˆ Both Marin General Hospital and Kaiser Permanente San Rafael Medical Center place a strong emphasis on patient education.

Information on specific programs is available on their respective websites, at maringeneral.org and kaiserpermanente.org.

STANDING AT LYFORD’S STONE TOWER IN TIBURON AND LOOKING OVER RACCOON STRAIT TOWARD ANGEL ISLAND,

most of us could scarcely imagine swimming that distance. The tides run swift through the strait and the current can be unpredictable. At 150 feet, it is one of the deepest channels inside the Gate, with water in the mid-50-degree range much of the year. Yet to some this swim — known as the RCP Tiburon Mile — not only is possible, but has become an annual challenge that beckons to both local and far-flung participants, including some of the fastest swimmers in the world.

The distance is one nautical mile, from the start on the beach in Ayala Cove at Angel Island to the fi nish line in Tiburon near Sam’s Cafe. The water temperature is the warmest it will get all year — a balmy 63 to 64 degrees on a mild autumn day — and the waves and chop are minimal due to the stabilizing presence of Angel Island. A flotilla of volunteer kayakers and paddleboarders shadows the racers across the channel, ready to swoop in if help is needed. The fastest swimmers make it over in about 20 minutes, while the average time is about 40 minutes. Along with triathlons and marathons, open-water swimming has expanded in popularity over the last decade; last year more than 800 participated in the Tiburon Mile. But this race was not the fi rst to traverse Raccoon Strait.

The Tiburon Mile is a favorite with local athletes and swimmers from around the world.

THE BIG SWIM

THAT HAPPENED ON August 30, 1952. Starting from the beach at Ayala Cove at 4 p.m., 27 swimmers, all without wet suits, plunged into the water. They landed somewhere on the rocky shore below the present-day location of the Caprice restaurant, a race of five-eighths of a mile. “Big Bill” McIvor, a young Stanford medical student at the time, won that contest in 13 minutes and 27 seconds. The Dolphin Club in San Francisco, organizer of the race, kept it going every year until 1966, when increasing boat traffic made it too perilous.

Almost 50 years after McIvor’s swim, on a large deck of a house up on the bluff above Lyford’s Tower not far from where McIvor came ashore that day, former U.S. National Swim Team member Robert Placak was celebrating his 40th birthday in the spring of 1999 with a gathering of friends. At one point during the evening his wife, Graciela, stood and presented him with a gift — a hand-drawn poster she’d made featuring a shark-with-halo logo (still used today) — proclaiming, in front of his friends and relatives, the first annual Tiburon Inter-Island Swim (as it was initially called). Placak accepted the challenge to create a world-class event that would attract the best open-water swimmers in the world, raise money for charity and be a great community event.

Placak, an insurance executive, teamed up with Robin Schaeffer, the operations manager at his company, to

The strategy is simple: go out fast, swim as hard as you can and hope you have picked the right line to the yacht club across the strait.

obtain the appropriate permits and approvals from town officials, the police department, the Coast Guard, Angel Island State Park, the Corinthian Yacht Club and some of the nearby homeowners. One by one Placak and Schaeffer managed to secure the go-aheads and the race was on.

Lining up the competitive swimmers was the next challenge. Offering a $2,500 prize (raised to $10,000 the next year) to the fi rst male and female fi nishers — a unique perk for an open-water race — clearly helped achieve this goal. Bringing in Olympic gold medalist Brooke Bennett also helped. She won the fi rst four of fi ve events and put the Tiburon Mile on the radar of elite swimmers around the world. More came to participate each following year.

Elite swimmers, as those who compete in global competitions are called, see this race as a sprint. The strategy is simple: go out fast, swim as hard as you can and hope you have picked the right line to the yacht club across the strait. Some say it is a matter of luck on that last point, as the currents and wind chop are never entirely predictable. Some choose the most direct line, while others choose to arc the route a bit to ride the current, which was ebbing in last year’s race, into the harbor fi rst. But since racers can’t judge the current while they are swimming in it, most go by what their gut tells them. If you change your line out there and move to the outside or the inside of the pack, it may help you win, or it may cost you the win. Others feel their chances are best staying in the pack a few strokes behind the leaders. Their

strategy is to make their move at the very end as they scramble up the beach to the fi nish line. Last year, freestyle skiing Olympic gold medalist Jonny Moseley called the race for television audiences, while John Naber and Rowdy Gaines, both Olympic swimming gold medalists, broadcasted from a command post on the deck at the Waters Edge Hotel.

As the elites jockey for position in the lead pack and try to earn that $10,000 prize, stretched out behind them are some 600 to 700 swimmers who do this for the thrill and the challenge or to obtain the bragging rights that come with just making it across. For some it is a rite of passage shared among generations of family — fathers, sons, mothers, daughters and grandmothers swimming together. High school and college teams come out to hone their skills and challenge their rivals in good-natured competition.

In the predawn darkness of race day, swimmers arrive, slowly at first, out of the darkness carrying their gear. As morning light envelops the scene, they come in a flood. Piles of belongings occupy every nook along the wooden deck where the Angel Island Ferry departs. In just 10 minutes they are on the island and headed to the start on the beach at Ayala Cove.

This year’s race — the 14th edition — takes place September 29. Registration fees are $139 before September 13 and $179 after. The deadline to register is September 25. Call 415.306.0716 or visit rcptiburonmile.com for more information. Proceeds benefit Special Olympics and Hospice by the Bay.

in the water shouting directions through his megaphone: “Elites, you gotta get back out of the water, we gotta see those toes.” In the front line, the elites wear white and multicolored caps; they’ll start fi rst. Behind them are the “naked” swimmers, those without wet suits, in red caps, and fi nally those wearing wet suits, in green caps. Aboard the pilot boat stationed about 50 yards offthe beach, Mark Leonard, vice commodore of the Corinthian Yacht Club, fi res the starting gun.

The start is not for the faint of heart.

As the swimmers bunch up along the beach, John Loberg, the head starter, in red shirt and red cap, stands calf deep

Hitting the cold water brings a sharp jolt to the system, whether you are in a wet suit or not. Racers fi ght to make it out of the twist of arms and legs as swimmers pile into the water and set out for the open water and the 2,000-yard swim (last year New Zealander Kane Radford fi nished fi rst among the men with a time of 21:43; Melissa Gorman, from Australia, took the women’s crown three seconds later). Over the next 40 minutes, one after another, the entire fi eld of racers swims through the yacht harbor entrance, around the docks at Sam’s, and toward the small beach by the Corinthian Yacht Club. On wobbly legs they emerge, up out of the water and across the electronic timing mat beneath the fi nish gate. Friends, relatives and other spectators line the deck at Sam’s and all along the seawall behind the fi nish gate to cheer them in. m

DID WE MENTION PRIZES?

(winners’ names will be randomly drawn from those who complete the survey)

First Prize: $500 shopping spree at The Village at Corte Madera

Two Additional Prizes: $100 in gift certificates for dinner at The Caprice restaurant in Tiburon

Destinations

THE LATEST LOCAL TRAVEL DEALS AND GETAWAYS PLUS JOURNEYS AROUND THE GLOBE

ISLAND ADVENTURES

BY MIMI TOWLE

RECREATION OPTIONS IN the picturesque environs of the Hawaiian Islands are more abundant than ever. From the wrist lift of the mai tai to the swim, bike and run Ultraman competition covering 320 miles on the Big Island, sport here takes many forms. Following are a few Marinstyle approaches to getting an island groove on.

Get Up, Stand Up

“What I loved about stand-up paddleboarding on our last visit to the St. Regis, Princeville, was watching the sea turtles and fish swim beneath me,” says Somer Tejwani, who spent a week on the north shore of Kauai to celebrate her birthday last spring. Her goal: catch a wave on a SUP without falling off. Tejwani and her friends who joined her on the trip all managed to succeed.

“We felt like kids, screaming, laughing and fist pumping once we finally caught some waves,” she says. Tejwani credits the fact that Tatiana, their instructor, has a few sur fing trophies under her belt and was completely competent in the water. “She put us at ease and taught us simple things like getting on our knees to go straight through an oncoming wave, even if it was white wash, instead of jumping off nd giving up. We all felt much more comfortable in the water after a day with Tatiana.”

The St. Regis Princeville’s water sports program is run by Kauai local Doug WestonWebb, who’s Tatiana’s father and a longtime surfer. Surf schools run or sta ffed by former surf champs can be found on all the islands and have grown in popularity as stand-up has caught on. “Actual sur fing was a bit daunting for us,” Tejwani adds, “but we all eventually figured out how to stand on a paddleboard.”

Ian Foo, owner of Big Island–based board rental company HYPR NALU, notes that “we get all types of people coming to the Big Island to surf. Some have years of experience and want to hone their skills or learn to surf or canoe, while others have never been in the ocean.” Foo’s company, offering sur fi ng, SUP and canoe lessons and rentals, has been in business more than a decade, and this is his busiest summer yet: “We get our customers through word of mouth, we have great reviews on social media and we’ve even been on a few television shows” — most recently the season

fi nale of A&E’s Duck Dynasty. “They were a great group to work with,” he says of the show’s featured Louisiana family of 30. “While the fi nal cut included them being goofy and falling off, the reality was they were all pretty successful with catching waves and they defi nitely had a good time doing it.” Although the Big Island has plenty of places to learn to surf, Foo prefers the gentle waters off ona, as do spinner dolphins: “They are so used to people in Kailua Bay, they will often interact with paddlers, and that is just one of the unique experiences we can offer here in Hawaii.”

SUP and Surf Packages

HAWAII Take advantage of Aston’s “65 Days of Aloha” package at Aston Shores at Waikaloa. It includes the Aston Aloha Book — more than $2,500 in savings on dining, shopping and activities — and Aston’s year-round “Kids (17 and younger) Stay, Play & Eat Free.” Combine this great deal with a few private lessons from HYPR NALU surf school and you can’t afford to stay home. Room rates start at $159 per night. astonhotels.com

KAUAI With the St. Regis Princeville’s “Pursue Your Passion” package, every five-night stay includes a $1,000 resort credit good toward SUP or surfing (or golf, spa or meals); rooms start at $1,100. stregisprinceville.com

OAHU Learn the “sport of kings” in the waters off Waikiki, where royalty used to surf the gentle rollers on heavy boards made from koa wood. Duke Kahanamoku and his beach boys dazzled tourists with their mastery of the sport while also teaching the basics. In the same spirit, Outrigger Reef on the Beach and Outrigger Waikiki offers a “Beach Ocean Promotion” package that includes stand-up paddle

or surfing lessons for two, use of two beach chairs, a beach umbrella and 200 Hawaiian Airlines frequentflier points per night; starting at $379. outrigger.com OAHU Former pro surfer Hans Hedemann has his own shop in the lobby of newly renovated Turtle Bay Resort on the North Shore. He offers an array of water activities including surf and stand-up paddle lessons and rentals. Guests staying at Turtle Bay can partake in “Forecast for Fun” — a five-night stay, daily breakfast for two, and a $500 Adventure Credit good toward surfing; oceanfront beach cottages start at $529. turtelbayresort.com

Paddle the Sea

When Alexis Cohen of San Rafael heads back to Hawaii, getting into a boat is her priority. Growing up on Oahu, she trained and raced on local outrigger teams. “There are a few spots like the Fairmont Kea Lani on Maui that offer a complimentary morning paddle,” she says. “It’s nothing like an official team workout, but it’s a great bonus for me and my family to be out on the water.” Cohen joined a six-member outrigger team throug h He’e Nalu Outrigger Canoe Club here in Marin last winter to get herself in the water, but the demands of a full-time job and family life put the kibosh on her rowing with any consistency; “it’s now just a vacation activity.” Last summer, on a vow-renewal trip with her husband and two sons, she made sure a family paddle was part of the casual ceremony. “My husband was a sport about it and the kids thought it was great.”

Luckily for Cohen and anyone else needing an outrigger fi x, most major beach areas and resorts offer some type of outrigger experience.

REFRESH.

NEW “EPIC” ROOMS FROM $319, HAWAIIAN INSPIRED RENEWAL ALL AROUND YOU.

The only resort destination on Oahu’s Fabled North Shore beaches welcomes a new era of island culture, with dramatically renovated island-themed accommodations, new locally-sourced restaurants, and the arrival of the revolutionary Nalu Kinetic Spa.

Prices vary from $30 to $50 an hour, as does the paddle; most have a set course and start time, while others are charters for groups of up to six. “I really love paddling all over the islands,” says Cohen, “but there is something special about Waikiki. I know it’s touristy and can get really crowded, but the guys steering the boats know what they’re doing and I love to think back to what it must have been like here one hundred years ago — same waves, same water, much different view.”

Outrigger Packages

HAWAII Fronting the King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel, the Kona Boys activity shack offers stand-up paddling, surfing, diving, kayaking and now the new Wa’a (canoe) rides and charters that take you looking for dolphins and exploring historic Kailua Bay. Rates range from $50 per person per hour to $399 for six-person four-hour charters. Rooms start at $199. konaboys.com, konabeachhotel.com

HAWAII The Fairmont Orchid, one of the first hotels in Hawaii to offer SUP yoga, continues its water program with a “Room to Reef” experience in the calm waters of Pauoa Bay. It includes a two-hour outrigger snorkeling adventure, Fun & Sun activity pass, waterproof camera and luxury accommodations; starts at $795 per night. fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii KAUAI Guests at Marriott’s Kauai Beach Club, at Kalapaki Beach, have a choice of flat water rowing or wave-riding with the Kauai Beach Boys outrigger program. The boys head out on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays at 9 a.m. and 11 a.m. kauaibeachboys.com

MAUI Staying at the Fairmont Kea Lani? Be sure to sign up for the early morning Hawaiian Canoe Experience (Monday–Friday). A six-person outrigger holds two staff paddlers and four guests. Participants learn the basics of paddling and its history and Hawaiian heritage and enjoy an hourlong tour of the Wailea coast; rooms start at $519. fairmont.com/kealani

MAUI For a similar trip 20 minutes south of the Fairmont, check out the Trip Advisor–recommended “Outrigger Canoe Tour,” $30 per person at the Makena Beach and Golf Resort, Mondays and Thursdays 8:30–9:30, advanced reservations required; rooms start at $250. makenaresortmaui.com

Take a Swing

With more than 70 courses throughout the islands, golf has been popular with Hawaiibound travelers for more than a century. Today, the rustic nine-hole Moanalua Golf Club — Hawaii’s fi rst course, built in 1898 — and Molokai’s nine-hole Ironwood Hills Golf Course, built in 1928, are still open to the public. But most golfaholic visitors head to the brilliant-green-and-blue PGA-worthy settings shown every year on TV. Even the most discriminating player ca n fi nd a challenge on the various courses and hit a few bucket-list holes at the same time.

Dana Ely of Strawberry grew up in Honolulu’s Hawaii Kai area, where her brother Rodney worked as assistant pro at the Kapolei Golf Course. Throughout her childhood, the entire Ely clan golfed all over the islands every vacation and most weekends. “My favorite courses were the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, where I saw then-President Gerald Ford; the Plantation course at Kapalua, Maui, where we would try to make it to the first tournament of the year; the Koolau Course on Oahu, the most beautiful and difficult course in the world; and the course at the Kahala Hilton, which is now just called the Kahala,” she says. “During one of the Hawaiian Opens at the Kahala Hilton, my dad met pro Ben Crenshaw, who was playing that day. They became fast friends over their shared love of the sport, and to this day they still exchange Christmas cards.”

These days, when Ely returns to the islands with her teenage son, she books her tee times

Island and 65,000 HawaiianMiles to help them get there. For your chance to win, visit AstonHotels.com/millionmiles or facebook com/astonhotels

through hawaiiteetimes.com. “The discounts are great now that I’m paying for two tee times,” she says. “I can get onto some of the best courses at almost half the price.”

Golf Packages

HAWAII Ever wanted to play Mauna Kea’s infamous third hole (one of the most photographed in the world)? The “Stay and Play” package includes a three-night stay and four 18-hole rounds of golf (two at Mauna Kea and two at Hapuna Golf Course, next door); starts at $516 per night. princeresorts hawaii.com/maunakea

LANAI Four Seasons Lanai’s “Unlimited Golf” package features the resort’s two award-winning picturesque courses. Choose either the Challenge at Manele or the Experience at Koele. Guests can use a GPS-enabled cart and play as much as they like during the day. Starts at $679 for Manele, $579 for the Lodge at Koele. fourseasons.com/koele, fourseasons.com/manelebay

MAUI For fans of Kaanapali’s three-mile white-sand beach, there’s Aston Hotels & Resorts’ “Tee for Two in Kaanapali.” The package includes lodging at any of the six area Aston properties and two rounds of golf at the Royal Kaanapali or Kaanapali Kai golf course, plus perks such as a golf cart, free additional sameday rounds and a warm-up bucket of range balls; starts at $213 per night. astonhotels.com/teefortwo

MAUI Want to hit the greens in Wailea?

Destination Resorts guests can choose between several packages and price points at various locations, including “Tee for Two,” “Fore X Four” and “Luxury Links.” Packages are valid for golf at Wailea Golf Club; prices vary. destinationresorts hawaii.com

KAUAI Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa has a “Stay and Play Golf” package: Enjoy one round of golf for one person at the award-winning Poipu Bay Golf Course and a breakfast buffet for two at Ilima Terrace restaurant; starts at $482 per night. kauai. hyatt.com, poipubaygolf.com

OAHU For those staying in Waikiki, Ko Olina Golf Club offers free shuttles to the 18-hole championship course on Oahu’s sunny west coast. The Ted Robinson–designed course boasts exceptional water features, multitiered greens and expansive landing areas for your tee shots. The resort is home to the LPGA LOTTE Championship and offers multiple packages and promotions with nearby hotels. koolinagolf.com

Run, Race, Hike

Kathy Winkler, who grew up in Tiburon, spent many years with her family exploring the various Hawaiian islands. Her fi rst impression of Kona on the Big Island was not stellar. “I was racing in my fi rst Ironman in 2001, and as we were landing at the Kona Airport I thought, ‘Where are the beaches and palm trees? This looks like I’m landing on the moon.’ ” Since her maiden Ironman, Winkler has completed seven events (six ending in wins), won the

Honu 70.3 triathlon twice and has set a new age-group world record all three times she has done the Ultraman.

Today, the Big Island is her favorite; she and her husband, Peter McIntosh, bought a condominium in Keauhou, just south of Kona, and were married on the island, coincidentally, by the Ultraman race director. “It is a definite family we have made there,” she says. “I do feel like there are so many people from Marin that are into the IM scene and spend as much time as they can training or racing there.”

Yet “not everyone is cut out for Ironman,” she says, and other possible island pursuits abound; “while there, if I am not training, I love to hike.” She’s not the only one. Google Maps has teamed with eco-tourism company Hawaii Forest and Trail to create “street” views of many unique trails; images will be available later this year. In the meantime, here are a few properties with hiking packages.

Select Hikes

HAWAII The Four Seasons Hualalai offers such individual hikes as a low-key tour of Hualalai volcano or a visit to such volcanic wonders as lava tubes. Well-suited to anyone who wants to experience the wonder, beauty and history of Hualalai; starting at $700. fourseasons.com/hualalai

MAUI Guests of the Ritz-Cartlon Kapalua can enjoy the “Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Ambassadors of the Environment” program, which leads complimentary hikes through the nearby coastal trails as well as the rain forest just up the road; rooms start at $290. ritzcarlton.com

MOLOKAI Hotel Molokai, the island’s best hotel, was recently renovated and now offers an alternative to its famous mule-back adventure: Instead of riding up and down the world’s highest sea cliffs, guests can hike in and out of the Kalaupapa Village and, as part of a package, stay one night in a gardenview deluxe room. Starts at $529, additional nights at best available rate. hotelmolokai.com m

With daily nonstop ights from SFO to Kona’s only white sand beach, paradise is closer than you think. We invite you to come enjoy our 2 beachside restaurants, the full service spa, and the #1 ranked island lū'au.

To learn about our special Fall & Winter rates, call 800.367.2111 or visit konabeachhotel.com

ARGENTINA

Renting a car is great way to leave the city behind and explore the wonders of the countryside.

MY HUSBAND AND I slowed our silver sedan upon approaching the roadblock. In front of us, three gauchos on horseback gently urged a herd of at least a hundred bleating, pooping, chomping goats toward the road’s shoulder. As we waited for the herd to clear out, a cyclist whizzed by us, slipping through a narrow gap between the goats on one side and a field of purple-topped thistle on the other. Our vehicle wasn’t so agile. Luckily, we weren’t in a hurry.

We were on our honeymoon, which began in the bustling city of Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina, and moved outward to the big-sky landscape of Patagonia. We chose Patagonia for its wild and ruddy reputation, characterized by endless tracts of untamed land, spindly rivers and marbleized mountaintops. For ou r fi rst three weeks of travel, we stuck to airplanes, buses, bikes and foot travel. But it was only when we landed in Mendoza, Argentina’s wine capital, that we discovered the benefits of forking over a few extra dollars to rent a car, which gave us the opportunity to zoom over the enormous pampas-strewn landscape without missing any unique cultural artifacts along the way.

From Mendoza, we made plans to drive to the picturesque city of San Rafael, 150 miles south. The independence of car travel shocked us at fi rst. Thrust into the responsibility of choosing our own directions, we spent the fi rst hour of our newfound freedom snapping both at each other and at

the semifunctional GPS mounted on the dashboard. Adding to the stress, we quickly learned that Argentina has its own set of tacit road rules, which includes a blatant disregard for lanes (or what my husband a ffectionately referred to as “the Argentine drift”). We eventually adjusted to the aggressive lane changes, rampant speeding and frequent sight of bicyclists tottering along narrow shoulders of busy highways.

The farther we drove away from Mendoza, the more we relaxed our white-knuckled grip on the steering wheel.

Five lanes narrowed into two, and then to one. The countryside fl attened out, the sky above it a solid mat of blue. In

December, when we visited, the climate was warm and dry. We took the drive slowly, meandering away from the main road through the tree-lined Valle de Uco, a wine-tasting destination for a ficionados with the foresight to make reservations in advance, which is required at most of the tasting rooms in the area.

To get a better feel for the region’s history, we drove the winding road toward the Andean foothills to see the

We hiked with our tour group to the maw of it, temperature plummeting as we wove our way through the smooth dark corridors formed by lava splitting open the ground.

monument known as the Retorno a la Patria, dedicated to the Argentine General Jose de San Martin, who, with his “Army of the Andes,” helped free South America from the rule of the Spanish Empire in the 1800s. San Martin, considered a “founding father” of Argentina, also helped lead the liberation of Chile and Peru.

When we reached San Rafael, the helpful folks at the local tourist office provided us with maps and suggestions for nearby road trips. We got by on beginner Spanish, but found our phrase book came in handy, especially in some of the more rural areas of the countryside. At tourist offices, usually we could find at least one person who could help us in English.

San Rafael is a bustling town with quaint tree-lined streets and its own collection of popular wineries. But it’s best known for being a portal to some of Argentina’s most scenic destinations just a short car ride away. Over a bottle of Malbec at a restaurant downtown, we scouted out our route. The first leg of the journey would take us to the town of Malargüe, a two-hour drive south of San Rafael. Then we would head north to the Cañon del Atuel, where we would stay for a night next to the turquoise waters of the Rio Atuel. Being in wine country, we wanted to end our road trip with a day of wine tasting in Maipu, located just outside of Mendoza.

Eager to hit the road, the next day we picked up breakfast to go and headed out of town. As soon as we drove far enough away from the city for the fertile vineyards to morph into barren desert landscape, we stopped at a mirador (lookout) to eat. At the pullout, we were stunned to fi nd the largest mound of empty soda and water bottles either of us had ever seen. The bottles shimmered in the sunlight, every shape, size and color. I assumed we had accidentally chosen our breakfast spot in a favorite dumping area. It looked, for all intents and purposes, like a huge pile of trash.

But it wasn’t trash. The bottles had been carefully placed at the lookout as part of a shrine to a folk heroine known as

La Difunta Correa. According to legend, a woman named Deolinda Correa took her baby to search for her Argentine soldier husband in the desert. Deolinda died, but her child miraculously survived, and a group of gauchos allegedly discovered her body with the baby still clinging to her breast. The water bottles are meant as offerings to quench her “eternal thirst.” Frequently along the road we saw altars to Difunta and other popular folk heroes, such as the red-flagged sanctuaries built for the gaucho saint known as Gauchito Gil.

Continuing the drive south, we enjoyed a stunning view of the snowcapped Andes jutting up behind swaths of rugged land flecked with stunted desert foliage, chivos (goats) and caballos (horses). Our goat-herd encounter occurred just outside the entrance to the tranquil city of Malargüe and we rolled into town just in time (before siesta, that roughly three-hour period midday when nothing is open) to join the last tour of a nearby dormant volcano. To reach the start of the tour, we drove a rambling dirt road into a scorched expanse of desert. The volcano was located on a shallow mountainside littered with basalt. We hiked with our tour group to the maw of it, temperature plummeting as we wove our way through the smooth dark corridors formed by lava splitting open the ground. Our guide spoke only Spanish, and despite our spotty translation, we enjoyed escaping the

heat of the afternoon in the shaded belly of the volcano. The tour barely scratched the surface of the rich volcanic geology of the area, and we rolled out of the region the next day wishing we had allowed more time to explore.

We had driving to do. Our next stop was the Cañon del Atuel, which some guidebook descriptions compared to the Grand Canyon. Although we didn’t experience the sense of sublime grandeur elicited by the enormity of the Grand Canyon, the Cañon del Atuel boasts similarly eye-popping colors. The glacial turquoise waters of the Rio Atuel carved through stacks of colorful, bulbous rocks, which eventually widened out into a gaping canyon marking the start of Valley Grande. In addition to the striking reds, coppers and golds so prominent in the American Southwest, some of the geologic formations in the Cañon del Atuel were shades of pink and green so bright they looked like colorful spray foam insulation. As we dipped into the town of Valley Grande, we were tempted by an array of river-running companies along the road. It was sweltering in the valley, and a jaunt down the icy blue river sounded like the perfect antidote. But we were eager to find a room first, since we hadn’t made any reservations (we’d been unable to book online because, we later learned, there was no Internet access in the entire valley at the time — although there were plenty of lodging options once

The following day, waving a wistful goodbye to the vast countryside, we headed north, back toward Mendoza. The desert countryside transformed into neat rows of vineyards as we approached the city.

we arrived). We were pleasantly surprised at how quickly we found a place to stay among the many cabañas on the shores of the Rio Atuel. Competition may have been fiercer if we had arrived at the peak of the tourist season, in January. Once we had our room, we took full advantage of the bargain rafting.

The host at our cabaña helped us make the arrangements and an hour later a van picked us up and whisked us off o the river put-in. Our friendly raft guide spoke both English and Spanish and patiently explained all the commands in both languages. Despite wary looks from our Spanish-speaking boat-mates, we managed to brave the rapids without incident as our guide shouted for us to paddle “Adelante!” (forward) and “Atrás!” (backward). The trip both cooled us off nd gave us a better feel for the river culture in Valley Grande, a popular vacation getaway spot for city-dwellers. As we floated down the undulating river, we waved at families on shore, teenagers dancing to loud techno music and couples lounging with drinks in hand. We ended the evening with beers and a game of dice on the deck of our cabaña followed by an impromptu dinner put together by our cabaña host, who was forced to borrow our flashlight in order to cook because the electricity in the kitchen had gone out.

The following day, waving a wistful good-bye to the vast countryside, we headed north, back toward Mendoza. The desert countryside transformed into neat rows of vineyards as we approached the city. We stopped briefly in Maipu, which contains one of the densest collections of wineries available in the area. With only a few hours before we needed to return the car, we had just enough time to visit two wineries: Viña Maria and Trapiche. Each had its own unique appeal, but we preferred the small-scale, intimate setting of Viña Maria. Between the two wineries, we bought four bottles of Malbec (a specialty of the area) and then hurried back to Mendoza to drop off he car. If we’d had more time, we would have parked the car for a bit, rented bikes and properly toured the region.

We rolled into Mendoza, tanned and smiling, just in time for the car return. Although Mendoza is very small compared to Buenos Aires, it felt like a metropolis compared to the areas we had just visited. In some ways, it was a relief to be on foot again. No more arguing about directions. No more panicky lane changes. But having access to so much countryside in so little time was worth it. The only regret we had on our walk back to our hotel was that we hadn’t reserved the car for just a little longer. m

IF YOU GO

• Reserve your car ahead of time. Don’t wait until the day-of to make your car rental plans. We rented through kayak.com.

• If you’re interested in visiting wineries off the beaten path, be sure to make reservations in advance.

• No airlines fly directly from the U.S. to Mendoza. But you can fly within the country on Aerolineas Argentinas or LAN Airlines. In addition, buses travel to Mendoza from Buenos Aires or Santiago, Chile.

• Allow extra space in your checked luggage to bring home wine (and protect it to prevent breakage). Returning to the U.S., you won’t have any trouble at customs with a case of wine for personal use. But large quantities for commercial resale will be taxed.

• If you’re travelling to Malargüe, consider renting a highclearance vehicle to explore the more remote areas of the rugged countryside.

• We stayed at hostels, booking mostly in advance at hostelworld.com. Planning ahead is especially important during the high season (December, January, February).

Out & About

CALENDAR / ON THE SCENE / DINE

GALLERIES

LISTING ON PAGE 91

THEATER / COMEDY / MUSIC / GALLERIES / MUSEUMS / EVENTS / FILM EDITED BY CALIN VAN PARIS

EVENTS

SEPT 15 Hungarian State Folk Ensemble Dancers and orchestral musicians bring Hungarian culture to life with a colorful stage performance featuring traditional costumes and folk music. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.473.6800, marincenter.org

THEATER

THRU SEPT 2 Oil and Water

The San Francisco Mime Troupe returns with a satirical show inspired by recent headlines. Dolores Park (SF). 415.285.1717, sfmt.org

THRU SEPT 15 Good People Pulitzer Prize–winning playwright

David Lindsay-Abaire’s new play about an insurmountable class divide comes to Marin for a limited time. Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). 415.388.5208, marintheatre.org

THRU SEPT 28 All’s Well That Ends Well

The Marin Shakespeare Company performs one of Shakespeare’s many romantic

comedies. Forest Meadows Amphitheatre (San Rafael). 415.499.4488, marinshakespeare.org

THRU SEP 29 A Comedy of Errors Shakespeare’s classic gets a Wild West theme in this comedy. Forest Meadows Amphitheatre (San Rafael). 415.499.4488, marinshakespeare.org

SEPT 13–OCT 13

Chapter Two The Ross Valley Players bring Neil Simon’s Tony-nominated, semiautobiographical play to life. The Barn Theatre (Ross). 415.456.9555, rossvalleyplayers.com

DANCE

ONGOING Israeli Folk

Dancing Learn dances that combine Middle Eastern, Eastern European, Latin and African traditions inspired by the ambience of Israeli festivals. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000, marinjcc.org

SEPT 26–29 BodyTraffic

The Los Angeles–based repertory dance company performs three works in its Bay Area premiere, starting with Barak Marshall’s original dance-theater piece, And at Midnight, the Green Bride Floated Through the Village Square. ODC Theater (SF). 415.863.6606, odcdance.org

COMEDY

TUESDAYS Mark Pitta and Friends The comic hosts an evening for up-and-comers and established headliners to work on new material. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmorton theatre.com

MUSIC

TUESDAYS Swing Fever

The band pays tribute to jazz artists and composers with selections from its roster of more than 1,000 tunes, every fi rst and third Tuesday. Panama Hotel (San Rafael). 415.457.3993, panamahotel.com

THRU SEPT 9 Wente Summer Concert

Series The vineyard continues its tradition of summer concerts with performances by Chris Botti and REO Speedwagon. Wente Vineyards (Livermore). 925.456.2300, wente vineyards.com

THRU SEPT 20 Pacheco Plaza Summer Music Series Free entertainment on four Friday nights featuring local Bay Area music. Pacheco Plaza (Novato). 415.883.4646, pachecoplaza.com

SEPT 6 Brokedown in Bakersfield A collective of acclaimed West Coast artists featuring Lebo of ALO, Nicki Bluhm of Gramblers, Tim Bluhm of the Mother Hips, Scott Law, Steve Adams and Dave Brogan. Terrapin

Crossroads (San Rafael). 415.524.2773, terrapincrossroads.net

SEPT 7 Plácido

Domingo The Spanish tenor and conductor performs alongside guest sopranos Angel Joy Blue and Micäela Oeste and guest conductor Eugene Kohn. The Greek Theatre (Berkeley). 510.642.9988, calperfs. berkeley.edu

SEPT 10 Neko Case

Enjoy the musical stylings of the American singer/songwriter. The War field (SF). 415.345.0900, the war fieldtheatre.com

SEPT 11 Jimmy Cliff The reggae legend performs his classic songs and tells the stories behind them. The Fillmore (SF). 415.346.6000, thefi llmore.com

Plácido Domingo at the Greek Theatre, Berkeley

SEPT 12 Adam Ant A performance by the English musician formerly of Adam and the Ants. The Regency Ballroom (SF). the regencyballroom.com

SEPT 13 David Luning

The rock singer performs music from his debut album, Just Drop on By. The Sleeping Lady (Fairfax). 415.485.1182, sleeping ladyfairfax.com

SEPT 15 Point/ Counterpoint The Left Coast Chamber

Ensemble explores simplicity and complexity in the music of Bach, Dowland, Albert Roussel, Erik Ulman and the American composer Elliott Carter. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmorton theatre.com

Fine Arts

Helen Petri

‘‘Rouge”, Original Oil on Canvas Petri’s Fine Arts

415.332.2626 • www.petrisfinearts.com • 690 Bridgeway, Sausalito

SEPT 18–OCT 4

Dolores Claiborne San Francisco Opera presents the world premiere of Dolores Claiborne, a new opera based on the novel by Stephen King. War Memorial Opera House (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com

SEPT 20 Tainted Love

San Francisco’s original ’80s tribute band performs favorite hits from Bon Jovi, Prince, Madonna and many more. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). 415.388.1100, sweetwater musichall.com

SEPT 21–22 Polk Street

Blues Festival Enjoy two days of blues music along San Francisco’s Polk Street between Paci fic and Union. Shop the merchant marketplace between sets and enjoy food from local vendors. Polk Street (SF). 800.310.6563, polkstreetblues festival.com

SEPT 24 Little Boots

A performance by the dance/pop singer. The Independent (SF). 415.771.1421, the independentsf.com

GALLERIES

MARIN

Art Abloom Studio and Gallery Oil paintings by Gabriella Spina Drake and classes for artists. 751 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.256.1112, artabloom.com

Art Works Downtown Momento Mori A street art–based installation featuring works by Bay Area artists Eddie Colla and D Young V, through October 11. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael.

415.451.8119, artworks downtown.org

Bubble Street Featuring genres of fantastic art, imaginary realism, neo-Victorian and steampunk. 565 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.339.0506

Caldwell Snyder Gallery Works by Marta Penter, September 5–30. 341 Sutter St, San Francisco. 415.392.2299, caldwellsnyder.com

Fine Art Etc. Featuring a collection of sculptures and paintings by artists from Northern California and around the world. 686 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.1107, finearttc.com

Gallery Bergelli Summer group show, through September 15. 483 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.945.9454, bergelli.com

Gallery Route One Annual Box Show A benefit featuring 150 boxes provided by the gallery and decorated by local artists, through September 8. 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org

George Krevsky Gallery Points of Interest New Works by Ken Kalman, September 21–October 26. 415.397.9728, georgekrevsky gallery.com

Marin Society of Artists Fall Rental Show A juried show for members, September 8–October 5. 30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Ross. 415.454.9561, marinsocietyof artists.org

O’Hanlon Center for the Arts Symbols A juried show, through September. 616 Throckmorton Ave,

Dr. Seuss exhibit, Petri's Fine Arts, Sausalito

Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org

Petri’s Fine Arts Hats

Off to D. Seuss! Dr. Seuss’ never-beforeseen hat collection is on display in honor of the 75th anniversary of his second book, through September 15. 690 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.2626, petrisfineart.com

Robert Allen Fine Art Water Abstracted

A group exhibition of works on canvas and panel, through September 27. 301 Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.2800, robert allenfineart.co

Robert Beck Gallery

Early California and quality contemporary plein air paintings.

222 Sir Francis Drake

Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.456.7898, beckgallery.org

Robert Green Fine Arts Abstract expressionist paintings by Sam Francis, John Grillo, Paul Jenkins, Jim Bird and more. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgfineart.com

Rock Hill Gallery Things

Seen and Unseen A collection of photographs, through October 13. 145 Rock Hill Dr (Tiburon). 415.435.9108, ccctiburon.net

Room Art Gallery

Works by Francis Snyder, through September 6. 86 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.380.7940, roomartgallery.com

For 19 years, the Marin Speaker Series has brought compelling thought leaders to Marin for stimulating speaker events.

At this open, unbiased forum, our speakers introduce new – and often controversial – ideas for intellectual enrichment of the community.

Subscribe now to be part of the largest community speaker series in America, where we are dedicated to providing a high quality learning experience with personal touch service for our subscribers.

" Wonderful series, stimulating, thought-provoking, each month an intellectual bonbon."

2013-2014 speaker topics:

Compelling current events • Insights from a retired statesman • Science and technology for the masses • Human rights up close and personal • Historical perspectives • Politics and the journalist • Social philanthropy in today’s world • Thoughts from one of America’s most admired couples

• SEPT 28 Exploratorium’s Fog Festival Celebrate the captivating and everchanging nature of the Bay Area’s beloved fog. The festival doubles as a last chance to view artist Fujiko Nakaya’s Fog Bridge. Although Nakaya’s fog environments have been presented around the world, this is her first project in the San Francisco Bay Area, a region famous for its dramatic fog. Exploratorium (SF). 415.528.4360, exploratorium.edu

Seager Gray Gallery

New work by gallery artists. 23 Sunnyside Ave, Mill Valley. 415.384.8288, seagergray.com

Studio 333 Ongoing exhibition featuring more than 40 Bay Area artists’ work in diffeent mediums. 333A Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.8272, studio333.info

Studio 4 Art Work by local artists, classes and workshops with materials included. 1133 Grant Ave, Novato. 415.596.5546, studio4art.net

SAN FRANCISCO

ArtHaus The New Yorkers Works in various media by Serena Bocchino, Marc Lambrechts,

Carol Massa, Suzanne Benton, Greg Drasler, Deborah Brown, Chris Schiavo, Joanne Landis, Andrea Arroyo and Franc D’Ambrosio, through September 28. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com

Caldwell Snyder Paintings and sculptures by local artists. 341 Sutter St, 415.392.2299, caldwellsnyder.com

Electric Works

Requiem A collection of collaborative works on paper that focus on the soon-to-be demolished east span of the Bay Bridge, September 7–October 19. 1360 Mission St, 415.626.5496, sfelectricworks.com

MARIN COUNTY AIRPORT

GNOSS

FIELD, NOVATO

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2013 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM Free Parking.

Admission: Adults $10, Youths $5, Children 9 and under Free. WWW.GNOSSFIELD.ORG

Gregory Lind Gallery

New work by gallery artists. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com

Hackett-Mill Forms of Flight Works by Lee Bontecou, Richard Diebenkorn, Herbert Ferber and Franz Kline, among others, through September 27. 201 Post St, 415.362.3377, hackettmill.com

John Berggruen Gallery

Chuck Close: Important Works on Paper from the Past Forty Years

An exhibition of work by the American artist Chuck Close, September 5–November 16. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com

Rena Bransten Gallery Dowaud Bey: The Birmingham Project, September 5–October 19. 77 Geary St, 415.982.3292, renabransten gallery.com

MUSEUMS

MARIN

Bolinas Museum 30 Years of History The museum celebrates its 30th anniversary year with an exhibit that looks back at its development, through December 31 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org

Marin History Museum

An Afternoon in a Victorian Parlor A display of an old-fashioned sitting room in the historic Boyd Gate

House (San Rafael). 415.454.8538, marinhistory.org

Marin Museum of the American Indian Explore Native American history, languages, art and traditions (Novato). 415.897.4064, marinindian.com

Marin Museum of Contemporary Art Fall national juried competition, through October 6 (Novato). 415.506.0137, marinmoca.org

BAY AREA

Asian Art Museum

The Cyrus Cylinder and Ancient Persia: A New Beginning Modest in size and appearance and made more than 2,500 years ago, the Cyrus Cylinder is one

of the most important and iconic objects in world history, through September 22 (SF). 415.581.3711, asianart.org

California Academy of Sciences Nightlife Enjoy music, creatures and cocktails for adults only and explore the exhibits and aquarium displays every Thursday night (SF). 415.379.8000, calacademy.org

Conservatory of Flowers Butter flies and Blooms An English garden with monarchs, swallowtails, painted ladies and more, through October 20 (SF). 415.831.2090, conservatoryof floers.org

Contemporary Jewish Museum Beat Memories: The Photographs of Allen Ginsberg More than 80 photographs by the poet, through September 8 (SF). 415.655.7800, thecjm.org

de Young Richard Diebenkorn: The Berkeley Years, 1953–1966, through September 29 (SF).

415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org

Exploratorium Ongoing interactive exhibits exploring science, art and human perception (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu

SPINE CENTER

Museum of Craft and Design Good Design: Stories from Herman Miller, through September 22 (SF). 415.773.0303, sfmcd.org

Oakland Museum of California Peter Stackpole: Bridging the Bay Black-and-white photographs depicting the building of the San Francisco–Oakland Bay Bridge and Golden Gate Bridge in the 1930s (Oakland). 510.318.8400, museumca.org

Legion of Honor Impressionists on the Water A celebration of French impressionists’ interpretation of sailing, through October 13 (SF). 415.750.3600, legionofhonor.org

San Francisco Botanical Garden California Native Plant Boom A collection of hundreds

Out & About / CALENDAR

of wild flowers native to California and a 100-year-old grove of coast redwoods (SF). 415.661.1316, sfb otanicalgarden.org

The Walt Disney Family Museum Camille Rose Garcia: Down the Rabbit Hole, through November 3 (SF). 415.345.6800, waltdisney.org

Yerba Buena Center for the Arts Migrating Identities A display of art depicting cultural transition and relocation, through September 29 (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org

EVENTS

THRU SEPT 2 Sausalito Art Festival Walk through a maze of

specially selected artwork while enjoying gourmet food, cocktails and performances by Creedence Clearwater Revisited and Tainted Love. Marinship Park (Sausalito). 415.332.3555, sausalito artfestival.org

SEPT 3 San Francisco Symphony Opening Night Gala The San Francisco Symphony celebrates the opening of its 102nd season with a gala featuring singer and actress Audra McDonald in works from the American Songbook, as well as the SFS performing Antheil’s Jazz Symphony and Gershwin’s An American in Paris. Davies Symphony Hall (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org

SEPT 7 Share-A-Book

Practice reading skills by reading with a canine companion. Open to kids and adults. South Novato Library (Novato). 415.473.3220, marinlibrary.org

SEPT 14–15 Much Ado

About Sebastopol

A 16th-century renaissance harvest fair featuring historical reenactments, parades, storytelling, sword fighting and refreshments. Ives Park (Sebastopol). 707.481.8213, muchado aboutsebastopol.com

SEPT 14–15 Ghirardelli

Chocolate Festival The 18th annual chocolate festival featuring local restaurants and chefs, chocolate and cooking demonstrations, children’s activities and

live music. Ghirardelli Square (SF). 888.402.6262, ghirardelli.com

SEPT 14–15 Castro

Valley Fall Festival Castro Valley’s biggest event of the year. Enjoy live entertainment, arts and crafts, wine, food, a classic car show and more. Castro Valley Boulevard (SF). sresproductions.com

SEPT 18 A Taste of Downtown San Rafael A tasting event throughout downtown San Rafael including hors d’oeuvres and wine samples from local restaurants and merchants. Downtown San Rafael (San Rafael). sresproductions.com

SEPT 20–22

Oktoberfest Enjoy German cuisine, beer and music from the 21-piece Chico Bavarian Band, all on the bay. Pier 48 (SF). 888.746.7522, oktober festbythebay.com

SEPT 21 Smash-ing Opening Gala Bay Area Cabaret starts its 10th season with an opening night featuring Broadway and television star Megan Hilty. Fairmont San Francisco (SF). 415.392.4400, bayareacabaret.org

SEPT 21–22 Mill Valley Fall Arts Festival Enjoy artwork in all mediums by more than 14 0 fi ne artists along with live music, children’s activities and local eats. Old Mill Park (Mill Valley). 415.381.8090, mvfaf.org

SEPT 22 Bocce Invitational This tournament is open to anyone and everyone, no experience necessary. Proceeds benefit Warm Wishes. Marin Bocce Federation (San Rafael). 415.472.0211, warmwishes.org

SEPT 28 Blackie’s Hay Day A Fair at Blackie's Pasture to benefit the Bel-Tib Library Children’s Programs. Enjoy carnival games,

SEPT 21 Ladies Night on the Catwalk Sample local food and drink while shopping the latest fashions and accessories in a marketplace that will be mirrored on the catwalk. Mehan Estate (Ross). 415.457.3200, sunnyhillsservices.org

BAY AREA’S #1 EATING DISORDER PROGRAM

a train, rock climbing wall, music and food trucks. Blackie’s Pasture (Tiburon). blackieshayday.com

SEPT 28 Stepping Out to Celebrate Life Gala and Fashion Show To Celebrate Life Breast Cancer Foundation’s largest annual fundraiser will feature more than 30 ladies and two gentlemen, all breast cancer survivors, as they walk the runway. Enjoy fi ne dining, fashion, dancing and live and silent auctions. Marin Center Exhibit Hall (San Rafael). 415.455.5882, tocelebratelife.org

FILM

SEPT 7 Moonrise Kingdom Bring a

blanket and enjoy Wes Anderson’s newest fi lm about two young lovers who flee their New England town. Washington Square (SF). 415.272.2756, fi lmnight.org

SEPT 13–14 Mill Valley Surf Film Festival The Bay Area surf community gathers to watch fi lms, listen to music and discuss all things sur fi ng. Watch one of many short and feature fi lms and enjoy evening concerts, local art, acoustic music and help ocean-related charities. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). 415.388.1100, millvalley sur ffi lmfestival.com

SEPT 15 Cliff House Documentary/Playland at the Beach Bay Area fi lmmaker Tom Wyrsch

presents a double feature of documentaries about San Francisco’s history and lost treasures. Smith Rafael Film Center (San Rafael). 415.454.1222, ca fi lm.org

NATURE WALKS

& TALKS

ONGOING Foodie Adventures Experience the Mission District, North Beach or Chinatown on a culinary walking tour. Various locations (SF). 888.498.2008, foodieadventures.com

ONGOING Mark Twain Walking Tour of Napa and Sonoma Local actor George Webber morphs into Mark Twain as he brings alive the pasts of the historic

towns. 707.694.5097, georgewebber.com

ONGOING Sausalito Walking Tours Take a one-hour walk through Old Town and learn about its history. Vina del Mar Plaza (Sausalito). 415.331.3791, travelswithteri.com

ONGOING The San Francisco Gourmet Chocolate Tour A threehour walking tour from the San Francisco waterfront to Union Square with seven stops and generous tastings at each. Justin Herman Plaza (SF). gourmetwalks.com

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What do you love about Marin Magazine and what can we do better? As part of our semiannual circulation audit through the Circulation Verification Council, we are asking readers to take a few minutes to complete an online survey. We’ll use the answers to learn more about your preferences and to serve you even better. One lucky respondent will receive a $500 gift certificate for a shopping spree in the Village at Corte Madera; another two will win $100 dining certificates for use at the Caprice restaurant in Tiburon. Take the survey now for a chance to win. marinmagazine.com/readersurvey

America’s Cup Blog

You loved our coverage in our America’s Cup guide Race for the Cup, but the stories continue. Our guide editor and past chief communications officer for the Cup, Stephanie Martin, has all the inside tips and up-to-the-minute information on how to watch and enjoy the races. Be sure to check out

her sailing blog on our website. marinmagazine. com/acblogs

Race for the Cup

Racing on the bay continues to be packed with thrills, chills and most likely spills as the teams seek to challenge Oracle Team USA for the glory of holding aloft the coveted America’s Cup trophy. Tell us who you think will win the 34th America’s Cup. One lucky entrant will receive a certificate for a dinner at a local restaurant. marinmagazine. com/cupwinner

THRU OCT 1 2013 Point Reyes Trails Challenge

A self-paced hike-athon and community fundraiser for the National Park Service's 150-mile trail network at Point Reyes. Various locations (Point Reyes). 415.663.1200, ptreyes.org

THRU NOV 16 Fall 2013

Leadership Lecture Series Dominican University and Book Passage present a 10th season of leadership lectures by some of the country’s leading figures in business, politics, entertainment, academia and literature. Dominican University (San Rafael). 415.927.0960, bookpassage.com

SEPT 3 Patton Oswalt in Conversation with Paul Lancour Self-professed “comedy nerd” Patton Oswalt talks with Paul Lancour to benefit the 826 Valencia Scholarship Program. Nourse Theater (San Francisco). 415.563.2463, cityarts.net

SEPT 1–30 Architecture and the City Festival

The 10th annual, month-long celebration features walking tours, fi lms, exhibitions, lectures and more. This year’s theme, “Unbuilt San Francisco,” centers on structures that were never built and the plans that never came to be. AIA San Francisco (SF). 415.362.7397, aiasf.org

SEPT 28 Wildlife

Treasures of China Camp Look for clues that will reveal the identity of some of the animals that call China Camp home during the fall. Possibilities are deer, coyote, wild turkey and white-tailed kite. China Camp (San Rafael). 415.456.0594, wildcarebayarea.org

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On the Scene

SNAPSHOTS FROM SPECIAL EVENTS IN MARIN AND SAN FRANCISCO EDITED BY DANIEL JEWETT

• TO CELEBRATE LIFE BREAST CANCER FOUNDATION Awards totaling $238,125 were distributed to 14 Bay Area nonprofits April 1 at Servino Ristorante as part of the Breast Cancer Foundation’s annual ceremony.

• MARIN MAGAZINE EDITORS’ CHOICE PARTY More than 200 guests and awardees enjoyed hors d’oeuvres, cocktails, beer and wine from local producers, music by Jimmy Dillon and words from Marc Hershon at the annual awards party at the Mill Valley Community Center July 25.

• SAVING THE RHINO Guests sampled vegetarian hors d’oeuvres, wine and sake from Sushi Ran May 18 at a Sausalito Film Festival–sponsored benefit for WildAid, including a screening of the documentary Saving Rhino Phila.

• CS FOUNDATION FUNDRAISER

Drs. Lakshmi and Mandalam Seshadri gave informative presentations and guests enjoyed a silent auction, wine and food at the July 25 foundation benefit held at the Room Art Gallery in Mill Valley.

• PLAYDATE 2013: URBAN CIRCUS

For its 2013 annual fundraiser on May 3, the Bay Area Discovery Museum moved the party back to its grounds overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge in Sausalito. Guests savored drinks and food, and took in a live auction and fun from the Velocity Circus Performers.

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS AND GOOD FOOD IN THE BAY AREA EDITED BY MIMI TOWLE

• FABRIZIO RISTORANTE Italian Traditional Italian dishes with an extensive wine list from regions all over Italy; outdoor seating makes the experience even more special. 455 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.3332, fabrizioristorante.com

CORTE MADERA

BLUE BARN GOURMET

American The first Marin outpost of the S.F.–based Sustainable Restaurant Group, Blue Barn Gourmet has proven to be very popular since opening in October 2012. The menu consists of customizable salads, toasted sandwiches, soups and more, prepared with locally harvested produce and proteins. 335 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.1104, bluebarngourmet.com

BRICK & BOTTLE

California Sourcing local and artisanal ingredients, executive chef Scott Howard brings simple California cuisine to Corte Madera’s Brick & Bottle. The restaurant features a large bar area, an outdoor patio and family-friendly dining. 55 Tamal Vista Blvd, 415.924.3366, brickandbottle.com

IL FORNAIO Italian

Sausalito’s Larry Mindel hit a home run with this upscale Italian restaurant franchise. Besides the awardwinning breads, pizzas and pastas, the menu offers a variety of salads and noncarb entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com

MARIN JOE’S Italian Authentic Italian dishes have been served here for over 50 years. Pick from soup, salad, seafood, mesquite-grilled or sautéed meats and more than 10 pasta options guaranteed to satisfy. Have a drink and hear local musicians at the well-known piano bar. 1585 Casa Buena Dr, 415.924.2081, marinjoesrestaurant.com

THE COUNTER California/American

The folks at the Counter have taken the “have it your way” motto to a wholenew level. Mostly known for all-natural Angus beef, turkey, chicken or veggie burgers, the restaurant also offers options like a bowl (all the ingredients without the bun) or salads. And if you want a martini with your burger, no problem—there’s a full bar. 201 Corte Madera Town Center 415.924.7000, thecounterburger.com

FAIRFAX

FRADELIZIO’S Italian Family-owned for 15 years, Fradelizio’s blends Northern Italian cuisine with Californiainspired healthy fare using the freshest ingredients possible. The homemade gnocchi is a crowd-pleasing favorite.

35 Broadway Blvd, 415.459.1618, fradelizios.com

GRILLY’S Mexican

Grilly’s is an easy and delicious stop. Pick up a couple burritos and the much-loved chicken taco salad and you have a lunch or dinner that is sure to please the whole family. 1 Bolinas Ave, 415.457.6171, grillys.com

STEAKHOUSE GRILL & BAR

American

Celebrating its 90 year anniversary, this steakhouse at Deer Park Villa is more than just a restaurant serving signature Angus steaks and prime rib. It is a gathering place with daily happy hour, live entertainment and a large heated deck. Events include Ladies’ Night, Prime Rib Weekend and the Redwood Music Series. 367 Bolinas Rd, 415.456.8084, deerparksteakhousegrill.com

GREENBRAE

BISTRO VIS À VIS

California This Bon Air Shopping Center eatery features the cooking of Soo Young Kim, who previously acted as owner, chef and sommelier at Petaluma’s Sooze Wine Bar. The neighborhood spot boasts outdoor seating for casually fine dining. 282 Bon Air Ctr, 415.925.4370, bistrovisavis.com

WIPEOUT BAR & GRILL

American The familyfriendly hot spot has surfboards hanging from the ceiling, funin-the-sun music, a full bar and large televisions displaying surfers riding waves. Menu includes fish tacos, salads and burgers. The only thing missing is the sand at this surf-style, upbeat eatery. 302 Bon Air Ctr, 415.461.7400, wipeoutbarandgrill.com

LARKSPUR

AMBROSIA Italian This family friendly Italian joint serves traditional pizzas and homemade pastas, accompanied by one of the best wineby-the-glass programs in Marin. Ambrosia will soon find a new home in Kentfield—look for them on Facebook for details. 1159 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.9292

BELCAMPO MEAT CO.

American This eatery serves classic grilled items like the roasted tri-tip sandwich and classic sloppy joe. The meat is delivered from the certified-organic Belcampo Farms near Mount Shasta, dedicated to practicing a holistic approach to pasture management. Marin Country Mart, 2405 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.448.5810, belcampomeatco.com

EL HUARACHE LOCO

Mexican Bringing authentic Mexico City dishes to Marin,

chef Veronica Salazar’s menu has gained quite a following. From mini huaraches (filled corn masa cakes) to the footlong huarache with two salsas, crema, queso fresco and two toppings of your choice, you get a true taste of a homemade Mexican meal. Marin Country Mart, 1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.925.1403, huaracheloco.com

EMPORIO RULLI Italian

Pastry chef Gary Rulli is renowned for his Northern Italian specialties and treats. The Larkspur location (there are three others) is a favored spot for lunch as well as coffee and a sweet. 464 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7478, rulli.com

FARM HOUSE LOCAL

California Downtown Larkspur’s newest gem is sure to please with simple, healthy food in a warm, cozy atmosphere— both inside and outside on their covered patio. 25 Ward Street, 415.891.8577,

• HILLTOP 1892 California

Situated on a historic estate in Novato with sweeping views, Hilltop 1892 offers traditional favorites with a California flair. Open from breakfast through dinner, as well as Sunday brunch. 850 Lamont Ave, 415.893.1892, hilltop1892.com

fish n’ chips, clam chowder and tasty salads, Yankee Pier serves fresh seafood delivered daily from both coasts. 286 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7676, yankeepier.com

MILL VALLEY

BALBOA CAFE

MILL VALLEY

California

The San Francisco institution has already become a place to see and be seen in Mill Valley, especially after the 142 Throckmorton Comedy nights. Menu items include pan-roasted Alaskan halibut and risotto and burgers. 38 Miller Ave, 415.381.7321, balboacafe.com

farmhouselocal.com

LEFT BANK

RESTAURANT French

Known for awardwinning French cuisine and a lively brasserie ambience, this corner spot on Magnolia Avenue has rated high with locals for well over a decade. Those with a petite appetite or budget can opt for happy hour (4 to 6:30 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close, M–F) for appetizers, most of which are priced under $6. 507 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.3331, leftbank.com

MARIN BREWING CO

American Grab a cold beer made right on site and pair it with fish n’ chips — fresh cod dipped in Mt. Tam pale ale batter, served with steak fries and homemade tartar sauce.

Marin Country Mart, 1809 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com

RUSTIC BAKERY

California Organic mouthwatering pastries, breads and sandwiches are on the menu here, including Meyer lemon mascarpone danishes and a bacon, avocado and heirloom tomato sandwich with mesclun. Two locations: Marin Country Mart, 415.461.9900; 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556, rusticbakery.com

THE TAVERN AT LARK CREEK American

The next chapter in the 1888 Victorian Murphy House, formerly known as Lark Creek Inn, is being written by chef Aaron Wright. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7766, tavernatlarkcreek.com

YANKEE PIER American

This family-friendly, casual clam shack is harbored in a quaint house built in 1924 as a private residence. Though known for beer-battered

BOO KOO Asian

Authentic Asian street food is now available for $10 or less. The restaurant offers options for every eater—vegans, gluten-frees, vegetarians and carnivores alike. Menu items include chicken pho, vegan summer rolls, pad thai and five-spice pork satay, all made with organic, locally sourced veggies and proteins. 25 Miller Ave, 415.888.8303, eatbookoo.com

BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE

American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and chili-lime “brick” chicken are a few of the satisfying, comfort-food menu items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s. The warm, dark-wood bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com

BUNGALOW 44

American Much like sister restaurant Buckeye Roadhouse, Bungalow 44 offers a mean dose of homey carbo- and lipid-laden dishes, such as the burger, fried chicken and truffle fries, as wel as a few lighter items. The bar is a neighborhood favorite, known for tasty spirits and eye candy. 44 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com

EL PASEO HOUSE OF CHOPS American This historic establishment was given new life in 2010 when it was purchased by local musician/restaurateur Sammy Hagar chef Tyler Florence. The menu speaks to the restaurant’s elegance, with offerings like roasted bone marrow, hamachi crudo, smoked trout salad and the El Paseo short rib. 17 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0741, elpaseomillvalley.com

FRANTOIO RISTORANTE

ITALIANO Italian

Known for its in-house olive press, superior olive oil and excellent Italian cuisine, this spot is a great location for an intimate dinner, large groups and anything

in between. Owned by Christine Zecca and chef Duilio Valenti, both from Milano; the kitchen uses local and organic ingredients. For special occasions and private parties, reserve the olive-press room. The popular weekday happy hour starts at 4:30 p.m. 152 Shoreline Hwy, 415.289.5777, frantoio.com

GRILLY’S RESTAURANT

Mexican Both the Mill Valley and Fairfax locations offer “healthy Mexican food” like grilled chicken, steak or veggie-filled burritos with gluten-free and vegetarian options. 493 Miller Ave, 415.381.3278, grillys.com

HARMONY Chinese

Dishes here are an infusion of many flavors. The barbecue pork bun is filled with house-made roasted meat in a savory sauce, and fresh mussels are accented with red chili and Thai basil. Pair your pick with wine, beer or tea. Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmonyrestaurant group.com

LA GINESTRA Italian A favorite family spot for over 30 years; getting a table or booth here can take awhile. While this old-school Italian eatery is known for traditional pastas, veal dishes, pizzas and dry martinis, the familiar wait staff is also part of the attraction. 127 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0224, laginestramv.com

NOURISH GRILL

American Open for brunch, lunch and dinner, Nourish offers a variety of classic seafood, like fish ’n’ chips,

TWELFTH STREET BY CYNTHIA VINCENT, BROCHU WALKER, THEORY, LIEBESKIND, VINCE, J BRAND, AG, BURNING TORCH, GRAHAM & SPENCER, KOOBA, VELVET, CLARE VIVIER AND MORE.

Mill Valley: 76 throckmorton ave | 415.381.2554 monday–saturday 10–6, sunday 11–5

Novato: 444 ignacio blvd | 415.883.4883 monday–saturday 10–5, sunday by appt &

facebook.com/carolinamillvalley

Toast of the Town

Local ingredients star in this flavorful snack.

While Marin County schools have kids covered in terms of reading, writing and arithmetic, important life skills — like cultivating healthy habits and learning how t o fi le taxes — often fall by the wayside. So when Chef Jamie Prouten of Tiburon Tavern was looking for a way to get involved with the community, teaching a lesson in sustainable cooking and eating seemed the right way to go. “We tossed around many ideas and felt that working with the schools via food education, sustainable products, etc., was where there was the greatest need in which we could play a role,” Prouten says. The chef started off is culinary curriculum at Tiburon’s Bel Aire Elementary School, with a roomful of fi fth-graders and some barbecue chicken meatballs. “You could see the chef was enjoying himself just as much as the students. We’re thrilled to be able to expose our students to this type of hands-on educational experience where they’re learning everything from fractions to sustainability,” says Carin Rhodes , a fi fth-grade teacher at Bel Aire. If you’re more than 10 years old, fear not — you can still learn to cook Tiburon Tavern recipes like a pro. We recommend starting with Prouten’s Smoked Salmon Toast. CALIN VAN PARIS

Smoked Salmon Toast

YIELDS 4 SERVINGS

Ingredients

½ red onion

1 cup red wine vinegar

1 cup water

2 tbsp. sugar

3 tbsp. kosher salt

1 lemon

2 avocados

1 ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 loaf Panorama Miche bread or other large sourdough loaf

2 pounds sliced smoked salmon

2 radishes (sliced thin)

1 bunch dill

Directions

1 Slice the red onion into rings that are about V inch thick. Place the rings in a glass or nonreactive metal bowl and add the red wine vinegar, water, sugar and 2 tablespoons salt. Let them pickle for about 2–3 hours. 2 Using a potato peeler, peel one lemon (try to get as little of the pith as possible). To make the lemon oil, add the lemon peel to 1 cup extravirgin oil and let it steep for 2–3 hours. 3 To make the mashed avocado, remove the pit and skin from the avocados. Place the avocado meat in a mixing bowl and add 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 tablespoon salt. Mash with a fork until you have created a good mixture of creaminess with some chunks. 4 Cut four slices of bread about ½ inch thick, drizzle them with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on a hot grill for about 45 seconds per side or until they are toasted to your preference. 5 Once they are toasted, spread some of the mashed avocado onto each slice. 6 Top the bread with the desired amount of smoked salmon, a few rings of pickled red onion, some radish slices and a couple sprigs of dill. 7 Finish by drizzling with about a tablespoon of lemon oil and enjoy.

as well as American grill fare like the Niman Ranch black ’n’ bleu burger. The establishment is also the restaurant for the Club at Harbor Point and is situated on the waterfront and open to the public. Many ingredients are locally sourced and organic.

475 E Strawberry Dr, 415.381.4400, nourish.harbor-point.com

PEARL’S PHAT

BURGERS American

Dubbed a silver-spoon alternative to a greasy spoon diner by The New York Times, Pearl’s has a loyal following for the big juicy all-natural patties (vegetarian, turkey, beef, buffalo or grilled chicken) served up with tasty sides such as garlic or sweet potato fries, shakes and seasonal smoothies. Eat in if you can get a seat, or take out. 8 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.381.6010, pearlsdeluxe.com

PIATTI RISTORANTE

AND BAR Italian The staff prides itself on capturing the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria. Try for a table at the window for a truly exceptional view right on the water. Take a peek at the impressive collection of Italian wines to accompany your rustic seasonal Italian meal. 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com

PIZZA ANTICA Italian

Although a recent Yelp reviewer praised it for having “by far the best thin-crust pizzas in Marin,” this Strawberry Shopping Center spot also offers antipasti and hearty salads. Wine is served by the glass, half carafe or bottle.

800 Redwood Hwy, 415.383.0600, pizzaantica.com

SHORELINE COFFEE

SHOP American Tucked away in a parking lot at Tam Junction, this Mexican coffee shop is (to quote one Yelper) a “funky diner” with a small-town feel. Enjoy the mix of Mexican and traditional breakfast fare. 221 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.9085

SMALL SHED

FLATBREADS California

Slow food chef Ged Robertson uses only local, mostly organic ingredients. Small Shed also offers and assorment of take-and-make options. 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, smallshed.com

SOL FOOD Puerto Rican

This Marin favorite has opened doors in Mill Valley, where they continue to serve up everyone’s favorite Puerto Rican cuisine. The line can get long, but the food is well worth it. 401 Miller Ave, 415.380.1986, solfoodrestaurant.com

VASCO Italian Whether

you’re at a table, the bar or the back counter, you can expect an intimate and tasty dining experience at this one-room trattoria. Try one of the restaurant’s pasta dishes or thin-crust pizzas. 106 Throckmorton Ave, 415.381.3343, vascomillvalley.com

WEEZY’S GRASS

FED SHED American Weezy’s has come to Mill Valley, adding their fl acvor to the already extensive selection of burgers in teh area. Luckily, the slidersized offerings make sampling two patties a perfectly acceptable

Beauty

SEASON

Out & About / DINE

option. 507 Miller Ave, weezys-shed.com

NOVATO

CHIANTI CUCINA

Italian This cozy eatery features an array of Italian and American choices, including a penne pesto described by one Yelp contributor as a “hot creamy bowl of heaven.” Another standout menu item is the house-made ravioli cooked up by chef Chris Harman. 7416 Redwood Hwy, 415.878.0314, chiantinovato.com

MUSCIO’S Italian

The restaurant has a lengthy list of options. 225 Alameda del Prado, 415.883.9125, wildfoxrestaurant.com

SAN ANSELMO

COMFORTS CAFE

American This cozy spot features local ingredients and serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. Be sure to try the Philly cheesesteak and Chinese chicken salad, both classics. 335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com

INSALATA’S

Pain Medicine Consultants

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Inspired by the tradition of family dinners, Muscio’s is serving up traditional Italian food. Meals include Mom’s Fettuccine with Prawns (gluten-free rigatoni available), My Sister’s Minestrone Soup and pesto chicken pizza. The kids’ menu encourages the whole family to spend an evening at Muscio’s. 1200 Grant Ave, 415.898.2234, muscios.com

RUSTIC BAKERY

California Organic mouthwatering pastries, breads and sandwiches are on the menu here, including Meyer lemon mascarpone danishes and a bacon, avocado and heirloom tomato sandwich with mesclun. 1407 Grant Avenue, 415.878.4952, rusticbakery.com

WILDFOX American

Mediterranean Awardwinning chef Heidi Insalata Krahling offers Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes prepared with local organic produce and artisan meats. 120 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.457.7700, insalatas.com

L’APPART RESTO

French Owners Bruno Denis and Olivier Souvestre, of Le Garage, offer a menu most Francophiles would be proud of, complete with items like smoked herring, bone marrow and cassoulet de legumes. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.256.9884, lappartresto.com

MARINITAS Mexican

Perched on the hillside off Highway 101, this rustic mesquite grill features smooth cosmos and other beverages and a menu full of comfort dishes like seafood risotto with bits of butternut squash. In the mood for a cigar?

The sister restaurant of Insalata’s, Marinitas continues to flourish as a bastion of creative Latin cuisine in Marin. It may not be as lowpriced as most Mexican restaurants in the area, but this is not your typical south-of-theborder spot. The festive atmosphere and funky decor complement the excellent food for a classy, lively experience. Finish with the

rich tres leches cake. This place gets packed, so make reservations.

218 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.454.8900, marinitas.net

MH BREAD & BUTTER

California This onestop-shop offers everything from coffee and pastries to artisan bread and braised meats. High quality ingredients and a comfortable atmosphere make MH worth checking out.

101 San Anselmo Ave, 415.755.4575, mhbreadandbutter.com

SAN RAFAEL

AMICI’S EAST COAST

PIZZERIA California The array of pizzas includes gluten-free crust options and the new Siciliano, an enticing mix of mozzarella, slowroasted garlic, sausage, broccoli and crushed red pepper flakes, sans tomato sauce. 1242

Fourth St, 415.455.9777, amicis.com

ODALISQUE CAFÉ

Mediterranean This casual art cafe was inspired by “La Grande Odalisque,” an oil painting of a slave done in 1814 by Jean-AugusteDominque Ingres. Menu items are built from seasonal items available at farmers’ markets and include persimmon salad, roasted butternut squash risotto and a variety of pizzettas. 1335 Fourth St, 415.460.1335, odalisquecafe.com

SAN RAFAEL JOE’S

Italian Guido and Theresa Farina run this Marin institution, which has been famous for sophisticated yet casual Italian fare since 1947. Great for large parties, the dining room holds 240. The Pacific red snapper meunière and roast sirloin of beef are standouts.

BLUESTONE MAIN

Out & About / DINE

931 Fourth St, 415.456.2425, srjoes.com

SOL FOOD Puerto Rican With south-ofthe-border treats like yellow rice, beans and plantains and authentic Puerto Rican specialties, this one-room eatery on Fourth Street just off Highway 101 can be hard to get into, but it’s worth the wait. No alcohol served. 903 Lincoln Ave, 415.451.4765, solfoodrestaurant.com

SANA MARIN

Mediterranean Healthy CaliforniaMediterranean cuisine using Marin and Sonoma county locallygrown produce, organic beef, grass-fed lamb, and free-range poultry as well as line-caught fi sh from the central or northern coast of California. Wines bar offers not only California varietals, but wines from around the world. 2200 4th Street,

San Rafael, 415.457.4164

SanaMarin .com

VIN ANTICO Italian

This newly re-opened restaurant offers seasonal market inspired cuisine like stone oven baked fl at breads, hand made pasta, organic salads. Set in an old brick building, the kitchen is open to the dining room and you can even snag a seat at the chef’s counter. 881 4th St, 415.721.0600, vin-antico.com

SAUSALITO

ANGELINO

RESTAURANT Italian

Father-and-son chefs Pasquale and Alfredo Ancona offer handmade pastas and seasonal antipasti at this authentic Italian restaurant. 621 Bridgeway, 415.331.5225, angelinorestaurant.com

FAST FOOD FRANCAIS

French This “frenchified American comfort food” spot opened in February after taking over Plate Shop’s old location. Owned and operated by the owners of Le Garage and L’Appart Resto, F3 serves brunch, lunch and dinner, with specialties such as the le bleu burger and a spinach and oyster mushroom omelette. 39 Caledonia St, 415.887.9047, eatf3.com

FENG NIAN Chinese

Busy at lunch and dinner, this spacious hangout has been a popular spot for wonton soup, pot stickers and daily specials for nearly two decades. For an indulgent treat order the Szechwan crispy calamari or honey-glazed walnut prawn. Free delivery. 2650 Bridgeway, 415.331.5300, fengnian.com

LE GARAGE French

Escape the touristy Sausalito spots and grab brunch right on the water. The atmosphere is animated with light French music (think Amélie). The Kobe Burger, though not as Parisian as the other menu items, is to die for, and the much-adored croque-monsieur is under $10. Opt for indoor or outdoor seating. 85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625, legaragebistro sausalito.com

MURRAY CIRCLE

American Enjoy the sun on the deck of this Cavallo Point restaurant. Locals say they come back for the fresh seasonal specials like wild sturgeon and Wolfe Ranch quail. 601 Murray Circle, 415.339.4750, cavallopoint.com

NAPA VALLEY BURGER

COMPANY American

Serving local, all-natural and organic meats, produce and wines, this burger joint offers classic burgers (glutenfree buns available), fries, salads, tacos and root beer floats. With outdoor and indoor tables, the space can accommodate up to 100 people. 670 Bridgeway, 415.332.1454, napavalleyburgercom pany.com

OSTERIA DIVINO

Tuscan Locals come for the tasty pastas and salads as well as coffee drinks, served in a funky one-room setting. 37 Caledonia St, 415.331.9355, caffedivinosausalito.co

POGGIO Italian A classic Italian trattoria with comfortable neighborhood charm and destination-caliber cuisine. Executive chef Ben Balesteri cooks up delicious Northern Italian cuisine using fresh and local ingredients, including produce from the nearby Poggio chef garden. 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com

SALITO’S Seafood In a well-known location on Richardson Bay that was most recently home to Paradise Bay. Salito’s features a new look and casual ambience. Enjoy a Nick and Nora’s Cocktail Special or a signature dish, including whole roasted Dungeness crab, house-made kettle bread served with Straus butter and sizzling iron skillets of mussels. 1200 Bridgeway, 415.331.3226, salitoscrabhouse.com

Out & About / DINE

around good sushi. Try fresh sashimi, the classic dragon roll, 49ers Roll or Rock ’N Roll, or be adventurous and have Wayne whip you up something off the menu. Good sake and a comfortable setting round out the reasonably priced meal. 400 Caledonia St, 415.332.1683, sweet gingersausalito.com

SAYLOR’S RESTAURANT AND BAR California/Mexican Marin’s first tequila bar offers over 100 tequila options. Nightly meal specials include chicken potpie, roasted salmon, baby back ribs and traditional meat loaf. Happy hour from 4 to 7 p.m. M-F. 2009 Bridgeway, 415.332.1512, saylorsrestaurantand bar.com

SEAFOOD PEDDLER

Seafood A great place to seek out fresh seafood in a warm and inviting environment. Varieties of East and West Coast fish are flow in daily. 303 Johnson St, 415.332.1492, seafoodpeddler.com

SEAHORSE Italian

TASTE OF ROME Italian

This local landmark has evolved from a cafe into a full-service restaurant offering pasta, pizza, sandwiches and salad in an authentic Italian atmosphere. Find the green, white and red awning and you’re there. 1000 Bridgeway, 415.332.7660, taste-of-rome.com

The spacious dining area, stage and dance floor make Seahorse perfect for both small and large celebrations. Enjoy a modern twist on classic Tuscan coastal cuisine while shaking your booty to the nightly live music and entertainment. 305 Harbor Dr, 415.331.2899, sausalitoseahorse.com

SUSHI RAN Japanese

Fresh, innovative small plates are just big enough to share, the traditional sushi is melt-in-your-mouth good, and the wine, cocktail and sake lists keep even the pickiest barfly satisfied. Th prices don’t deter the herd of sushi enthusiasts who line up nightly to partake. Reservations are required in the main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com

SWEET GINGER

Japanese Owners and chefs Edna and Wayne Ching know their way

TASTE OF THE HIMALAYAS Himalayan

Born in the foothills of the Himalayas, siblings Pemba, Dawa and Pasang serve up favorites from Nepal, Tibet and India. The restaurant focuses on blending different cultures and cuisines: spices from India, spirituality from Tibet, hospitality from Nepal and the freshness of ingredients from California. 2633 Bridgeway, 415.331.1335, himalayaca.com

TOMMY’S WOK

Chinese Scrupulously fresh ingredients and free-range chicken make the yellow coconut milk curry here divine. Nice atmosphere and good takeout. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.332.5818, tommyswok.com

THE TRIDENT Seafood

Originally a turn-ofthe-century building constructed in 1898 for the San Francisco Yacht Club, this waterfront restaurant reopened

in October after a remodel. Executive chef James Montejano, known for supporting local farmers, fishemen and organic food producers, prepares dishes like Hawaiian mahi mahi fish tacos and grilled swordfish. 558 Bridgeway, 415.331.3232, thetridentsausalito.com

WELLINGTON’S

California British transport Jeremy John and his wife, Jill, have created an expansive (2,400-square-foot) wine bar with a homey feel, board games, views of the bay and a worldly cellar featuring affordable bottles and special reserves. The menu offers wines by the glass for $5 to $20 and tasting flights of any three wines for $12. 300 Turney St, 415.331.9463, wellingtonswine.com

TIBURON

CAPRICE California

Book the private party room for large groups or just relax in what one Yelp reviewer called “the perfect romantic dinner spot.” Midweek, take advantage of the restaurant’s wellpriced three-course dinners for less than $25. 2000 Paradise Dr, 415.435.3400, thecaprice.com

DON ANTONIO TRATTORIA Italian

This trattoria offers authentic Italian cuisine in a quaint setting. The menu includes traditional courses with selections such as chicken piccata, organic roasted rack of lamb and house-made pesto. 114 Main St, 415.435.0400, donantoniotrattoria.com

GINZA Japanese

Whether you simply go for the volcano roll or indulge in the

Out & About / DINE

eight-course Omakase meal, the fresh ingredients coupled with the tremendous view of San Francisco keep this place busy, so make reservations or get there early. 41 Main St, 415.789.5123, ginzasushi-tiburon.com

GUAYMAS Mexican Situated right next to the Tiburon ferry terminal on the waterfront. The touch-it-you’reso-close city views and outdoor seating make it a great place to bring visitors on a warm summer night. Happy hour is 4 to 7 p.m. M-F. Menu includes specialties like puerco macho — pork loin chop with grilled plantain, topped with an ancho chile, garlic and onion sauce. 5 Main St, 415.435.6300, guaymasrestaurant.com

MILANO Italian Located in the Cove Shopping Center, this familyowned neighborhood

spot is known for its pasta and friendly service. A good place to take the kids — or catering option for your next birthday party. 1 Blackfield Dr, 415.388.9100, tiburonmilano.com

MING’S Chinese Hospitable service and large portions are just two of the reasons this family-run business is a favorite. Try the sautéed mango chicken with rice. 1550 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.4312

NEW MORNING CAFE

American Sit outside or indoors at this casual cafe. On a sunny morning, tables will be filled with locals enjoying the sun and extensive breakfast menu; lunch served as well. 1696 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.4315

SALT & PEPPER

American This sunfilled, hardwood-floore

one-room restaurant with blue-checkered tablecloths is a local favorite. Popular items on chef Abraham Monterroso’s menu include scallops, rib-eye steak, a beef burger and traditional crab cakes with jalapeño dipping sauce. 38 Main Street, 415.435.3594

SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE

American Everyone knows Sam’s deck is the prime spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole, but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. Enjoy transfat-free calamari, fresh fish, seasonal salads and pastas. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com

SERVINO RISTORANTE

Italian Executive Chef Massimo Covello comes to the kitchen via Frantoio and Piazza D’Angelo; here, he cooks

up an array of rustic Italian dishes, including house-made pastas, wood oven pizzas and seasonal specialties. A member of Marin Organic and one of Marin’s first eateries to become certified as a green business, Servino uses fresh, local and organic ingredients whenever possible. Check the website for the live music schedule. 9 Main St, 415.435.2676, servino.com

TIBURON TAVERN

California The atmosphere here is truly enchanting, with two outdoor patios, two indoor fireplaces and candlelit tables at dinner. No item is more than $20, including the steak, with entrées falling in the $14 to $18 range. Happy hour is 4 to 6:30 p.m. M–F. 1651 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.5996, tiburontavern.com

WEST MARIN

DRAKES

BEACH CAFE

American If you’re OK with the long drive, you can’t beat the view and the fresh, local ingredients used to make the burgers, salads and soups at this casual spot (Inverness). Walk on the beach after lunch. 1 Drakes Beach Rd, 415.669.1297, drakescafe.com

NICK’S COVE American

Large windows open the 130-seat eatery to the picturesque Tomales Bay and Hog Island. Menu consists of the freshest available local seafood, oysters and bounty from nearby West Marin farms, including Bodega Bay Dungeness crab cake and Tomales Bay clam chowder (Marshall). 23240 Hwy 1, 415.663.1033, nickscove.com

• PICCO California This has been a popular place ever since opening in 2005. Dishes like mini-burgers and seasonally driven menu items, along with risotto made every half hour, have kept people coming back. The Picco Pizzeria and Wine Bar next door is cozy (not many seats) but already famous for its wood-fired pizzas, great wine selection and soft-serve Straus Family Creamery ice cream. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com

OSTERIA STELLINA

California Whether it’s to cap off a day of hiking or celebrate a romantic anniversary, Osteria Stellina suits any occasion. The menu is Italian-inspired using organic, local ingredients. If you’re looking for something unusual try the goat shoulder, a favorite of locals and tourists alike. Don’t leave without indulging in the standout lemon ice cream sandwich (Point Reyes). 11285 Hwy 1, 415.663.9988, osteriastellina.com

PARKSIDE CAFE

American Most people know it as the ultimate breakfast spot (think Guatemalan scramble or waffle with bloo orange–strawberry compote and whipped cream — served alfresco) but lunch and dinners are popular here too. Choose from an array of organic, locally grown produce, artisan meats and wild seafood (Stinson). 43 Arenal Ave, 415.868.1272, parksidecafe.com

PINE CONE DINER

American Just off the main road, Joannie Kwit has re-created the ultimate neighborhood diner. Vintage china and homemade curtains complement the eclectic but homey menu featuring local fare. A favorite for locals as well as tourists (Point Reyes Station). 60 Fourth St, 415.663.1536, pineconediner.com

RANCHO NICASIO

American Known for live music and an extensive menu featuring everything from Dungeness crab burgers to walnut-crusted goat cheese, Rancho Nicasio is open seven days a week.

Be sure to stop by for happy hour, 4 to 6 p.m. M–F. 1 Old Rancheria (Nicasio) Rd, 415.662.2219, ranchonicasio.com

SAND DOLLAR

American Originally built from three barges in Tiburon in 1921, the Sand Dollar Restaurant was floated to Stinson that same year. Enjoy live music along with barbecued local oysters and New England clam chowder. Sunny deck is great in the afternoon (Stinson). 3458 Shoreline Hwy, 415.868.0434, stinson beachrestaurant.com

THE SIR & STAR AT THE OLEMA California

The historic inn has reopened as a roadhouse-style restaurant featuring rustic decor

and a delicious yet affordable menu. Try the housemade bread and honey butter, the kale Caesar and the stuffed quail, or take the plunge and sample the entire menu — the majority of items are $20 or less. 10000 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, 415.663.1034, sirandstar.com

STATION HOUSE CAFE

American Fresh local homegrown foods, served when available, are showcased on the chef’s menu. Stop in on weekends for live music and enticing wine and beer lists. 11180 State Route One, 415.663.1515, stationhousecafe.com

SURFERS GRILL

American The view doesn’t get better than this — nor does the surf salad. Built right out on Stinson Beach, this casual lunch spot offers up fresh organic salads alongside corn dogs, burgers and fries. Stinson Beach Park, Hwy 1, 415.868.1777, surfersgrill.com

For more local restaurant listings, visit us online at marinmagazine. com/dine

&

DEALS ON MEALS

Deals on Meals

Enjoy local restaurants and save 30 percent on meals. Check out the participating restaurants in our “Deals on Meals” section and experience big savings. Spend only $35 for a dining certificate worth $50. Simply go to marinmagazine.com/dineout to purchase a dining certificate from a restaurant in this section and we will mail it to you. Try a new restaurant or purchase a certificate for an old favorite. A perfect gift for any occasion. Limited supply each month.

Dine local — save big time!

55 Tamal Vista Blvd 415.924.3366 Corte Madera, CA brickandbottle.com

Sausalito, CA fengnian.com

Dining in? Try one of the great recipes in Organic Marin. Produced by Marin Magazine, this seasonal cookbook celebrates the organic farmers of Marin County and over 40 delicious recipes from local restaurants. 35% off with the code DINEIN. Go to themarinstore.com/organicmarin

Visit the Seafood Peddler

Perched on the Sausalito waterfront, the renowned Trident honors its original founding philosophy, showcasing quality organic and sustainablyprodued local fare. Whether seated indoors or on one of our two decks, spectacular bay views make dining here a feast for all the senses.

The Trident - Best Deck Dining

558 Bridgeway

415.331.3232

Sausalito, CA thetridentsausalito.com

The Counter offers all-natural, humanely-raised beef and 312,120+ combinations to build your own burger. The Counter is a great place for family, friends, great music and a full bar. Voted best burger in Bay Area by SFGate.com readers on Baylist 2011. ‘LIKE’ us on www.facebook.com/ TheCounterCorteMadera ! The Counter 201 Town Center

415.924.7000 Corte Madera, CA thecounterburger.com

Offering seasonal market-inspired cuisine such as stone oven baked flat breads, hand made pasta, organic salads and dishes that meld the familiar with the new. Set in a beautiful old brick building… the kitchen is open to the dining room and chefs counter seating is available. Vin Antico 881 4th Street

415.721.0600 San Rafael, CA vin-antico.com

B LACK, W HITE

Tory Burch

Castaner

Kors

Kate Spade

Rebecca Minkoff

Sam Edelman

Vera Wang

Vince Camuto Signature

Marin Home

FROM TOURS AND MAKEOVERS TO DECORATIVE DETAILS AND REALTOR INSIGHTS

IF A HOME could be a travelogue, or even a memoir, photographer Rudi Dundas’ hillside Mill Valley Craftsman might set the paradigm. “We’re both a little eccentric,” she says of herself and partner David Scott, “and things like cars or televisions or clothes don’t mean that much to us. For us, it’s all about the treasures from our travels.”

The home, a fi xer-upper she purchased in 2012 and spent more than a year renovating, is fi lled with photos she’s taken of locals in Africa, Southeast Asia and Latin America for clients like Peet’s Coffee and Blue Planet Network, a safe-drinking-water nonprofit. The walls of her living room are graced with African masks, a reminder of Scott’s childhood in Kenya. In the backyard, terra-cotta urns filled with blood oranges and kumquats echo Dundas’ many years spent in Tuscany with her two (now grown) children and ex-husband, renovating an 11th-century monastery.

Even the lap pool is reminiscent of the one she had atop a hill in Tuscany. That one took five years to install; the Mill Valley pool has taken only one — though it had to be dug by hand — and the results are stunning. Forty feet long and solar-heated, it runs the length of the yard and also stands atop a hill, overlooking live oaks and bay trees — there’s even a nice view of Mount Tamalpais from the water.

The pool, which Scott and Dundas use every day, was a motivator for the move. The couple, who formerly lived in Sausalito, not only needed room for Scott’s teenage

daughter, but they also wanted a summer. Both are avid swimmers.

From the front, the house overlooks San Francisco Bay — fitting, says Sharon Faccinto, the couple’s realtor, given Dundas’ interest in water. “It’s perfect that we found her a beautiful water view on one side,” says Faccinto, “and room for a pool in full sun on the other.” Like water, sun is also a feature of the house, especially when it permeates the great room, which has wall-to-wall glass doors, soaring 16-foot ceilings and two aptly named (and superhip) Aviator Chairs that world travelers Dundas and Scott bought from Restoration Hardware.

The two are big readers, which explains the inviting library they included in the renovations, replete with built-in bookcases, 19th-century English armchairs that face the fireplace, and a reliquary that houses artifacts from China, Africa and Peru. But the most wonderful part of this room is what Dundas calls the “book nook,” essentially a window seat on steroids. It’s a 6-by-6-foot cushion nestled into a hole in the wall, filled with pillows and sconces, where you can curl up and read a book on a rainy day. Their favorite subject? World literature, of course. m

THE DETAILS

WHERE THEY PURCHASED Sunny Heights neighborhood, in the hills of Mill Valley

WHAT THEY BOUGHT A 2,600-square-foot Craftsman built in 1912

LISTING AGENT Nick Rasic, Palladium Realty

SELLING AGENT Sharon Faccinto, McGuire Real Estate

STATS Average cost per square foot for homes in the neighborhood: $691–$1,000-plus

Sacramento

Ivy Drive, Ross Elegance and enchantment. 4bd, 3.5ba with an abundance of light, superior finishes, high ceilings and total privacy. Spectacular views of Mt Baldy and the Seminary from most rooms. Mere blocks to Ross Common.

$1,998,000

Lee Parkhurst 415.506.4138

Currey Avenue, Sausalito

Three bedrooms and four bathrooms located in Sausalito's Banana Belt with stunning views. Remodeled kitchen and bathrooms, separate detached guest suite, elevator, hot tub and a 2-car garage.

140CurreyAve.com

$1,875,000

Dennis Naranche 415.789.1515

Helens Lane, Mill Valley Light, bright and casually elegant. Set on a street-to-street lot, this gated property includes a private path allowing for quick and easy access to downtown. 4bd/3.5ba with high-end finishes and charming views.

166HelensLane.com

$1,995,000

Bernard Link

415.336.8676

Woodrose Court, San Rafael

Reduced! Peacock Greens Paradise. Large, private lot backing up to open space. 4+bd, 3.5ba on one level with terraced gardens and bridge view. Swimming pool/spa/waterfall and a three-car garage with extra storage.

10Woodrose.com

$1,879,000

Marlys Hooper

415.717.8200

Trumbull Avenue, Novato

Fabulous, property on over one level acre. 5 bedroom, 5 bath, 2 half-bath, 6600+/-sf, Gourmet kitchen, huge formal dining room, rec/media room, 2 family rooms, 3 fireplaces, lush, level lawn, pool, barn/pasture.

If

665TrumbullAve.com

$1,649,000

Team McNair 415.613.5563

Laurel Street, Inverness

Custom-built, 3bd/3ba home on 1.78+/-acres with views of the bay and Black Mtn. Kitchen with stainless steel and Viking stove, great room with soaring ceiling, Douglas fir floors, large windows, guest house.

$1,550,000 Rick Trono 415.515.1117

Ross - Reduced! Indoor-outdoor living at its finest on a level, .67+/-acre with pool, outdoor fireplace, and exceptional five bedroom home. $3,600,000

Sold - Santa Barbara in Marin. Spectacular remodel on a coveted knolltop. Sold over list price on the first day on the market. $2,150,000

Stephanie Lamarre Broker Associate 415.806.3176 | stephanie@stephanielamarre.com | BRE# 01840604

109 Oak Avenue, Kentfield - Gracious living in this turn of the century classic, 3-story, south-facing, traditional home on 2 separate parcels. 4417+/-sf on .70+/-acre. 6 or 7 bedrooms with 5 full baths. Pool with river rock surround, mature plantings and a flowing lawn. Excellent Kentfield School District, superior location.

$3,300,000

3 El Camino Bueno, Ross - 1-level home in a superb location with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out on a spacious .64+/-acre lot. Living room with fireplace, formal dining room. 4bd, 2ba, two separate additional structures. Newly refinished hardwood floors in most of the house. Excellent Ross School District, superior location. $2,169,000

Alain Pinel Realtors Congratulates Stephanie Lamarre for Representing the Buyers in the Sale of this Extraordinary Estate Listed at $14,500,000

Alain Pinel Realtors Congratulates Stephanie Lamarre for Representing the Buyers in the Sale of this Extraordinary Estate Listed at $14,500,000

W Kent Woodlands

The APR Difference Explained

In 1990, Alain Pinel Realtors began revolutionizing how residential real estate was practiced. Over twenty years later, we still are. We are privately held and operated by Bay Area owners. We are committed to sustainable growth, seeking out markets that meet our standards for dynamic expansion, quality real estate and strong community. Because we have always adhered to these practices, we are not only the #1 Privately-Owned and Independent Residential Real Estate Company in California, but are ranked the 5th Largest Residential Real Estate Firm in the Country by closed sales volume. Visit apr.com and experience the APR difference for yourself.

pARADISE FOUND

GREENBRAE | $2,200,000 | WEB: 0086184

A one-of-a-kind garden at 40 Altura Way. The grounds boast one of the Bay Area’s premier collections of palms, cycads, conifers, rhododendrons, ferns, and other exotic plants. This internationally renown garden harboring thousands of species of plants and exotic palms is set on approx. .5 mostly level acres. So close to all the great shops and restaurants yet so private with the entire compound perimeter beautifully fenced. Set far off the road in one of the warmest micro-climates in Marin. you’ll feel like you’re on vacation as you enter the large estate-style gate down the long drive lined with thick beautiful flora. The home has a spacious open floor-plan, cathedral ceilings, and French doors off most rooms leading to the resort style outdoor living spaces. Meditate or read outside by the Koi pond. Very large pool, Indoor solarium, outdoor greenhouse. Great Natural light. Very unique and special place. Located in the award winning Bacich School District.

KING OF THE VIEWS | TIBURON | $ 3,200,000 | WEB: 0086184

King of the views, Bridge-to-Bridge, absolutely amazing. Design and construction by Mickey Greer and Associates. Guest bedroom, bath and sitting room on lower level. Living room, dining room, family room, kitchen, half bath on main level. Master bedroom and bath plus office and another bedroom and bath on the upper level. Chef ‘s kitchen with breakfast nook, entertaining deck, includes gorgeous exterior kitchen, hot tub and pool off upper level. Great storage room off lower bedroom, central air on upper level, two zone heat. Award winning Reed School District.

WATERFRONT VIEW | TIBURON | $1,385,000 | WEB: 0086333

Beautiful Bay, marina and bridge views can be seen from nearly every room of this newly built home. The gourmet kitchen boasts a large island with granite counters, stainless steel appliances and a large walk-in pantry. There are three decks, spacious yard and private patios, two laundry rooms, large closets, security system, tall ceilings, large windows with shades, fireplace, and 50-inch built-in flat screen TV. The best location on gated street. Award winning Reed School District.

Jeff Moseley has been a luxury residential real estate broker serving Marin for fifteen years

extraordinary Japonesque Modern level, Private Setting in the Heart of larkspur

Hidden behind a tall gate and privacy walls, this distinctive, artistic home is approached through a serene Zen garden with rare black bamboo, artfully placed boulders and stone pathways. Function and design merge for streamlined elegance: double-height windows to let the light in all day, radiant heated slate floors, custom cabinetry, sliding panels which artfully reveal nooks, laundry and pantry. Unique perforated metal spiral stairway beneath a large skylight. Intimate master suite, with rooftop deck and spa. Pristine condition!

Feature S

Sophisticated entertaining spaces • Kitchen opens to sunny patio with sculptural arbor trellis • Integral alarm & music systems • Remote control opening skylight • One block to downtown Larkspur and direct GGT bus to San Francisco www. l arkspurModernZen.com

Offered at $1,795,000

Jim Fraser and Pacific Union Present These Luxury Properties

Tiburon’s Paradise Lodge, 4709 Paradise Drive | Offered at $6,395,000

Paradise Lodge, originally built as a hunting lodge, is now a majestic estate of 5900+ sq. ft., with three spacious en suite bedrooms plus an additional bedroom and two half baths. Updated and special features include a newly added formal dining room, a completely remodeled kitchen/ butler’s pantry, 1000 sq. ft. patio/entertainment area, executive office suite/conference room, an indoor gymnasium/basketball court, a sound proofed music studio and meticulously manicured grounds featuring a regulation size pitcher’s mound, bocce ball court and a horse shoe court too.

ParadiseLodgeTiburon.com

85 West Shore Road, Belvedere | Price Upon Request

Stunning 5 bedroom, 4.5 bath West Shore Road waterfront home. Sophisticated outdoor living with expansive wrap around waterfront deck, boat dock, electric boat lift and mooring. Perhaps the very best location on West Shore Road, with views from downtown San Francisco and the GG Bridge to Mt Tam. Azul Macauba blue granite kitchen counters, casual and formal dining areas, large window bound living room, and all with hardwood floors. Generous master suite with multiple French doors to the deck, and a very spacious en suite with double vanities and white onyx counters.

85WestShore.com

Jim Fraser

336 Laurel Way | $2,095,000

Stunning contemporary 5Br/3.5Ba, light filled home on a large lot including level front and back yards and lush landscaping in a peaceful and private setting. This stylish approx. 3218 square foot home was built in 2006 and features a thoughtful floor plan and finishes for today’s lifestyle. Ideally located on a private street adjoining a multitude of trails for hiking & biking, yet only a few minutes to Highway 101. 336LaurelWay.com

176 West Blithedale Avenue | $2,795,000

Location! 4Br/3.5Ba Cape cod style home sited on rarely available, highly coveted, sunny block of W. Blithedale near town. This approx. 2963 sq. ft. light filled home features gorgeous architectural details and a superb floor plan. Perfect for effortless entertaining and fun the backyard is large, private and lushly landscaped. Blocks to town, award winning schools and Mill Valley’s best hiking/biking trails.

176WBlithedale.com

Coming Soon in Sausalito

West Marin

by B.G. Bates

Bolinas

$1,195,000

Character-filled older home in lush setting with Bolinas Ridge views.

Nicasio

$795,000

Untouched 60± Acres: Impressive vistas, rights to recreate on adjacent 282± acres.

Bolinas $4,250,000 Ultimate getaway compound has 2-in-1 residence w/gate house and cottage.

Nicasio $1,635,000 Country Escape on 9± Acres: Pristine home with sweeping pastoral views.

Tomales $749,000

Ensemble of renovated 19th Century buildings: Home, cottage, barn, tower.

BG Bates

415.706.1026 • BG@BGBates.com BGBates.com

BRE #00968254

Bolinas

$3,950,000 Stunning coastal retreat: views, privacy, guest quarters, barn, pond, acreage.

Nicasio $1,295,000 Private country setting, excellent indooroutdoor flow, separate studio.

Point Reyes Station $730,000 Enchanting acreage: gently sloping 5.84 acres bordering National Seashore.

West Marin is my niche market. I know it, inside out. As editor of a well-known weekly newspaper, I covered the development of today’s land use plan that protects our unique area and lifestyle. Coastal, agricultural, rural residential. Love where you live. I do.

9975TroonCourt.com

Located in lower Kent Woodlands, this home is situated on a wide street at the end of the cul-de-sac. Open floor plan with huge gourmet kitchen with top of the line appliances and heated floors. Spacious garden grounds including expansive lawn areas, numerous garden pathways, hot tub, children’s zip line and a tree house area. Enjoy the amazing master suite with walk-in closet and adjoining grand office. Also featured is a large family room with wet bar, formal living and dining rooms. Near trails, Woodlands Market & located in the awardwinning Kentfield School District.

at $4,595,000

(415) 686-1855

This beautiful 5BR/4.5BA home was built in 2003. There’s room for everyone with over 3800 sq. ft. on a large (over 1/2 acre) lot. Features include hardwood floors, a chef’s kitchen, multiple fireplaces and Mt. Tam views from multiple decks, terraces and front porch. Plus, a gorgeous master suite, spacious bedrooms, formal dining room, den & living room. High quality finishes including granite and limestone throughout. Plus, an elevator and a little play house with small yard for the kids. Oversized garage, laundry room & plenty of storage. Located in the outer Brookside area close to schools, town, transportation; world class hiking and biking trails.

at $1,795,000

GElman (415) 686-1855

This is the rare opportunity to own two homes plus a detached studio on two adjoining parcels

There is a detached two room studio with cathedral ceilings & adjacent to the studio is another parcel, with a private 1BR/1BA home. The peaceful grounds are truly magical and a delight for entertaining, with beautiful gardens, fountains and Mt. Tam views.

at $2,100,000

A San Anselmo Gem

Style, luxury and convenience await in this exquisite, custom, architecturally designed home. Features 4 bedrooms, 3 baths with an open floor plan, a great room with cathedral ceilings and custom touches throughout. Entertain in the chef’s kitchen with high end stainless steel appliances and subzero fridge. A master suite with sumptuous master bath. Italian villa style outdoors with gardens and a pagoda for incredible outdoor dining. Located in the desirable flats in the heart of the sought after Morningside neighborhood. Close proximity to award winning San Anselmo schools.

This historic Queen Anne Victorian is nestled in the center of a rare estate property, graced with over 2 level acres of breathtaking, gated gardens. This property seems worlds away from everything, yet is close to many of Marin’s favorite amenities, from trails for hiking and cyclists, to the Dominican College’s cultural activities, and San Francisco’s city life. The impeccable and expansive grounds include a private redwood grove with a personal zip line, tennis court and a showcase pool. The elegant home boasts 7BR/7BA, a large dining room and formal living room, four fireplaces, and approximately 7,900 square feet of living space.

offered at $6,750,000

Beth SaSan (415) 990-7186

Rare offering of a two-story vintage charmer with contemporary finishes. Meticulously cared for, this home offers two bedrooms, two baths, family room, formal dining room, chef’s kitchen with high end stainless steel appliances. One of the bedrooms has an office (which could become a nursery), sitting area, fireplace and door leading to the side-yard. The house is located on a serene street, in close proximity to the prestigious Kentfield schools, College, and Hospital. For more photos and information, visit www.25StetsonAve.com

offered at $1,075,000

Spacious Mediterranean Villa with world class views and fabulous potential. High ceilings and grand verandas make the most of incredible views of the Sausalito waterfront. Two separate units on two floors, each with their own kitchen pave the way for gracious living. The elegant top unit has a formal dining room and features one full bath and one powder room. The updated downstairs unit has an enormous bedroom, two full baths, and a deck for taking in the view. A hillside tram unites this property and adds charm.

This charming 2 story vintage three bedroom, one bath home is perfectly sited on a very private and fully landscaped lot. Tastefully remodeled bathroom and kitchen with top of the line stainless steel appliances are just some of the wonderful features. Sunroom behind the kitchen brings the outdoors in and can be used as a family room, office or gym. Walkout basement offers lots of storage. Located between downtown San Anselmo and Fairfax and close to the playground.

Resort style living in this single level four bedroom, four and one-half bath home with pool and world class views of the San Francisco Bay, the City, the Golden Gate Bridge and Mt. Tamalpais. Designed for luxury and comfort with an open floor plan and an inviting indoor-outdoor flow.

Adorned with beautiful landscaping and level lawns. Chef’s kitchen with an island, spacious rooms, coved ceilings, large master suite with his & her bathrooms complete with steam showers, heated floors and sound system throughout. Award winning Tiburon Schools.

at $4,500,000

Spacious Seminary Home in San

This 3BR/2BA treasure in highly sought after Hawthorne Hills is love at first sight! Upon entering you are welcomed by a gracious and inviting living room with wood floors, plentiful windows, plantation shutters, fireplace and coved ceilings. The spacious dining room opens to the remodeled kitchen complete with modern concrete counters, stainless appliances & butcher block island. The beautifully landscaped, level backyard is a piece of paradise with entertaining areas, decks, garden space & custom tree house. Close to award winning schools, town, hiking trails & more.

at $899,000

509-1479

COLDWELL BANKER

Texting with clients, tweeting about exceptional homes, blogging about market conditions and positioning property videos on YouTube. Our clients expect and deserve real estate service that utilizes the most innovative tools used by technologically savvy professionals. We not only do so, but then we take it to a new level of innovation that helps us stand apart. As a company founded locally in San Francisco and backed by the strength, resources and connections of a global leader, there is no better team poised to deliver the exceptional real estate service needed in today’s modern world. To experience real estate in an innovative way, count on Coldwell Banker Marin. Call, tweet or follow us on Facebook today.

Extraordinary Properties require Extraordinary Agents

We are delighted to welcome Judy LeMarr to our Ross Valley Office in Greenbrae.

• Top 3% of Marin Agents

“I chose to move to Decker Bullock Sotheby’s International Realty because I felt it was the best fit for my clients.”

Judy LeMarr

415.793.5030

judy.lemarr@sothebysrealty.com marindreamhome.com

• President of the Marin Chapter of the Women’s Council of Realtors 2008

• District Vice President California State Chapter of WCR 2009

• Director Marin Association of Realtors 2011-2014

• Marin Platinum Group, Top Agent Network and International Luxury Home Marketing Institute

• Council of Residential Specialists (CRS), Performance Management Network (PMN) and Certified Luxury Home Marketing Specialist (CLHMS)

• Board President Marin Advocates for Children

• Past Board Member Junior League of San Francisco

• Member Children’s Theater Association of San Francisco and Ross Valley Women’s League

• Bachelor of Science Degree in Journalism from the University of Colorado

Marin… A Lifestyle Choice

2008 Fifth Avenue, San Rafael Sold Represented Seller

List Price

$989,000

Sold in 16 Days for 112% of Asking

Quintessential Sun Valley/Forbes Craftsman oozing curb appeal. Tastefully renovated with modern conveniences for today’s lifestyle. A gardener’s paradise with fruit trees, raised beds for vegetables and lots of room for entertaining and play. A large kitchen/family room, living/dining room, two bedrooms and full bath on main level. Two bedrooms and full bath upstairs. Sun Valley Elementary and the new fabulous Andy’s Market blocks away. www.2008fi fth.com

736 Walnut Court, Novato Available $569,000

This beautiful townhouse at Madera Marin has been impeccably kept by the owner since 1986. Upgrades include Pergo floors, plantation shutters, newer bathrooms. A sun filled entry patio leads to a spacious open plan living/dining with a wood burning fi replace. The generous back garden has a pergola with lots of room for entertaining. A modern kitchen family room, four generous bedrooms, two and one-half baths plus a 2 car garage make this home a 10! www.736walnut.com

11 Dorian Way, San Rafael Sold Represented Buyer

List Price

$1,450,000

Magnificent, remodeled, 4 bedroom, 2 bath, one-story, Loch Lomond masterpiece with bay views. High ceilings in living room, formal dining room. Remodeled kitchen with quartz countertops open to family room with sliding doors to flagstone patio. Landscaped and low maintenance yard with resort luxury by your own pool and sun drenched patio. Three car garage and bonus storage or office above garage .

• Over 9,000SF flat, sunny lot

• Master suite on first floor with adjacent office/nursery

• Luxury kitchen with large island open to living and dining areas

• Kid’s playroom or media room on second floor

575 Ethel Avenue, Mill Valley

Brian Byers is excited to present this rustic contemporary farm style home in one of Mill Valley’s best neighborhoods, and it has all the bells and whistles.

This home is 2,743 SF, 4 bedrooms, 3.5 baths with office/nursery and attached 2 car garage.

The large, sunny, flat, walk-to-town lot nestled at the foot of Homestead Valley is not to be missed. Price TBD

• Indoor-outdoor living with accordion doors leading to large covered porch

• Large flat lawn in rear yard

• Radiant heat through-out, and a Lutron QRS system

West Marin Estate

Offered at $5,399,000

It’s all about lifestyle in this recently renovated, ultra-contemporary 4,200 sq. ft. home on 16.5 acres in the heart of West Marin. Amazing indoor outdoor flow perfect for entertaining with pool, outdoor kitchen, patios and decks with panoramic views. It features 5 bedrooms, 3.5 baths, formal living and dining rooms, state-of-the-art kitchen, large family room with wet bar, private master suite with luxurious bath, and high end finishes throughout. Five-stall barn and two seasonal ponds for light recreation. Moments from San Geronimo golf course and 20 minutes from Highway 101. www.2600nicasio.com

Impeccably well maintained and beautifully appointed, expansive views to the south and east, from Belvedere Cove to San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge. Formal living and dining rooms, modern kitchen with large pantry, built-in desk, wine storage, with large doors to a sunny, private brick patio with mature topiary. Beautiful master suite with fireplace, large bay-window seating area, his and her closets and gorgeous bath. Wonderful family area/study with fireplace, built-ins, limestone workstation, wet bar and 7.1 sound system, and elegant bath with original art accents. Large amount of finished storage, greenhouse and stunning terraced gardens to the street below. Entry level comprises the living and dining rooms, kitchen, garage and master bedroom suite, ensuring easy, single-level living. Three bedrooms, three and one-half baths… $4,395,000

Situated on one of the two contiguous lots comprising approximately two acres, this residence offers privacy, wonderful outdoor living and sweeping views from Mt. Tamalpais through the Sausalito harbor. Formal living room with vaulted ceiling, hardwood floors, stepdown seating area with fireplace, and access to view-side terrace. Dining area with the Bay views and granite kitchen with banquette seating in the breakfast/family area. Top floor master suite with separate, vaulted-ceiling sitting room, and beautiful marble bath, and lower level with three bedrooms, full bath, laundry, Bay view-side deck and staircase to the exercise room with full bath. Finished with exceptional quality in cherry, marble and granite, custom hardwood doors and cabinetry, this home offers intimate and remarkable, private spaces. Sunny terrace with the Mt. Tamalpais and Bay views, adjacent (off-site) woodlands and seasonal stream. May be possible to build a house on the second lot. Four bedrooms, three and one-half baths… $3,800,000

LISTED

Quintessential indoor/outdoor, single-level living on one level acre of green lawns, lush gardens and sunny pool and spa. Walls of glass and large sliding-door openings on each side of the structure, framing a delightful and beautifully-manicured central courtyard. Sleek kitchen design with large center-isle, informal dining area and counter seating. Formal living, dining and sitting rooms, and large master suite with bay-window seating, large and well appointed dressing area, lavish bath and adjacent private patio. Four additional bedrooms including two en-suites adjacent the master. Modernist, resort-like estate, completely private, with two gated drives and multi-car parking, two blocks from Ross Common. Pool cabana with covered seating area and full bath, five bedrooms, five and one-half baths… $6,995,000

Circa 1926, gated Ross compound with grand residence of French Normandy stature, paved circular drive, and approximately two acres of large level lawns and gardens, terraces, patios and sparkling pool and spa. In the main residence, stunning sunlit kitchen, butler’s pantry, breakfast room and adjacent family room, majestic living room with curved balcony, palatial dining room with adjacent terrace, and beautiful master suite with fireplace, stunning bath and spiral staircase to the private study with full bath. Six en-suite bedrooms, including the master suite, on the upper levels. Gym and basketball court, theater, private pool and spa, cabana, elevator, five enclosed garages and two separate outdoor kitchen and BBQ areas with bar, built-in seating and fireplaces. Six bedrooms, seven and one-half baths in the main residence, separate two-story guest quarters with kitchen, fireplace and sunny patio, separate one-bedroom garage apartment and separate studio, in the heart of Ross… $14,950,000

The Garden of Allah

The one-of-a-kind estate above Mill Valley will soon be 100 years old. BY

JIM WOOD

MORE THAN 100 years ago, while surveying for roads above Mill Valley, 33-year-old Ralston White discovered land he felt was ideal for the woman he knew was ideal — his fiancée, Ruth.

In 1910, once the couple married, they commissioned Willis Polk to design a three-story, 14,000-square-foot retreat. In light of recent earthquakes, all agreed that it would be constructed of steel and concrete. Huge I beams were barged across the bay to Sausalito, carried by train to Mill Valley and hauled halfway up Mount Tamalpais on the “Crookedest Railroad in the World,” a popular tourist attraction at the time. In 1915, the mansion — including a 350,000-gallon concrete-lined water element

and a heart-shaped lawn — was completed and named the Garden of Allah. During the Great Depression, the Whites traveled in Europe; during World War II Ralston died; and in 1951, Ruth willed the property, which had long been in disrepair, to a series of trusts. Finally, in 2006, thanks to efforts by a group of nearby residents, the Ralston White Retreat Foundation was formed, funds were raised and the 43-acre property was restored to its former glory. “Now it’s a place where environmental, educational and church groups can hold meetings and seminars,” says site director Mike White. “We also host weddings.” See how the mansion looks today in our fall fashion feature (the inset photo is an excerpt from the shoot) on page 50 or go to ralstonwhiteretreat.org. m

In 2006, the Ralston White Retreat Foundation was formed, funds were raised and the 43-acre property was restored to its former glory.