Marin’s Most Exotic Rides USE WHAT YOU’VE GOT The Unexpected Rewards of Sharing
SKI THE WEST Upgrades and New Terrain
GET DRESSY New Looks for the New Year +
Marin’s Gateway to the Luxury Market.
Engineering beauty.
There are no words to truly describe Gaggenau’s remarkable embodiment of form and function. Nothing extraneous. Nothing excessive. Nothing short of perfection. And Purcell Murray is proud to bring you these exceptional appliances through our remarkable network of dealers throughout California.
48 Toast to the ’Tenders The county’s most beloved bartenders.
56 Dare to Share Marinites take advantage of the sharing economy trend.
60 Life in the Fast Lane Automobile fantasy becomes reality on Marin’s roads.
In Marin
27 Currents Holiday gifts, a big sale, Santa locations, charity events and more.
34 Style Sparkle this New Year’s Eve.
36 Q&A Meet a local fourth-generation ferryboat driver.
38 Made by Marin Thomas Fetherston’s fie furniture.
42 FYI Get to know Druid Heights.
Destinations
71 Go Upgrades and new terrain for this year’s ski season.
74 Travel Buzz Great places to explore.
76 Journey Oaxaca’s winter celebration is unlike any other.
Out & About
83 Calendar A roundup of what to do in Marin and beyond.
94 Dine An insider’s guide to restaurants and food in the Bay Area.
106 On the Scene Snapshots from special events in Marin and San Francisco.
Marin Home
117 Backstory A move from Ross to Sausalito is the perfect fit. COLUMNS 16 View From
for VALENTINO in 10022-SHOE: San Francisco’s most well-heeled ZIP code.
PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nikki Wood
Editorial
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mimi Towle
MANAGING EDITOR Daniel Jewett
SENIOR WRITER Jim Wood
EDITOR-AT-LARGE Tim Porter
COPY EDITOR Cynthia Rubin
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Calin Van Paris
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Lynda Balslev, Dawn Margolis Denberg, Laura Hilgers, Austin Murphy Art
ART DIRECTOR Veronica Sooley
PRODUCTION MANAGER Alex French
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Lynda Balslev, Mo DeLong, Lori Eanes, Anise Gemmell, Debra Tarrant, Nike van der Molen
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Kirstie
Martinelli
Savor an expansive Christmas buffet, with food stations featuring prime rib, a raw bar, pasta, salads and more. For private gatherings, the lodge offers stunning event spaces. Seasonal menus showcase fresh ingredients from local providers—enhanced by a stellar wine list. For the perfect present, give a Cavallo Point Gift Card, good for lodging, dining, spa treatments, cooking classes and the Mercantile. Make your holidays brighter at Cavallo Point!
Photo: Michael o’Neal & Sarah Peet
Photo: Sabine
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WHAT’LL YOU HAVE? We kick off December features with a story on everyone’s favorite person come holiday time: your friendly local bartender. From newly minted to seasoned pros, we introduce you to six of the best in Marin. You’ll meet them, take a peek at a drink or two and hear some classic bar jokes and stories. The great shots of drinks and bartenders, including the tantalizing image on the cover, were taken by photographer Lori Eanes.
We also present a story on sharing. Not the kind preached to kids vying for the last spot on the swing set, but the kind adults everywhere are using to supplement their income or just borrow a stepladder for a day. The sharing economy trend is big in Marin, where writer Austin Murphy fi nds people getting more out of all kinds of items — sometimes with unexpected and often pleasant results.
We wrap up features in Marin’s fast lane — giving the inside track on the speediest, most exotic cars in the county, with all the juicy stats on cost and performance. You’ll defi nitely want to put the top down, grab the driving gloves and buckle up.
In the front of the book we offer tips on making your own gifts, places Santa might appear (and humorous photos of such encounters), and New Year’s fashion; we also talk with a fourth-generation ferryboat operator and the man and woman behind the mysterious Druid Heights.
Destinations reveals which ski resorts have expanded or upgraded facilities, suggests a few celebratory year-end getaways, and visits the most unusual Mexican festival you might ever see.
It’s a big issue and we certainly had fun investigating the best cars and bars (just not on the same days) — a perfect capper for the year. We wish all our readers a joyful and relaxing holiday season and a happy New Year — and just wait until you see all the great articles we have planned for you in 2014.
Marin Magazine Staff Editors
You’ll meet them, take a peek at a drink or two and hear some classic bar jokes and stories.
ON THE STREETS
Editor Daniel Jewett and photographer Tim Porter had the hard job this month of driving, photographing and describing some of the flashiest cars in the world — most found right here in Marin. Here, see Porter surrounded by Ferraris during a recent Ferrari Owners Group meet-up and Jewett taking the 1,200-horsepower Bugatti through its paces.
Above, from left: Mimi Towle, Nikki Wood, Dan Jewett
Monster or Forerunner?
The Corte Madera apartment project is controversial.
“IWe were between a rock and a hard place. If we didn’t zone for all the units that were mandated, we’d be sued for noncompliance
BY JIM WOOD
T’S A MONSTER,” declared Corte Madera’s Carol Levenson to the Marin Independent Journal
“I want to put rude signs on its walls.” Instead, Levenson plans to move away. To that, Corte Madera Mayor Diane Furst adds this: “I’m not convinced it’s the best place for housing. People are not pleased about it.”
Levenson and Furst are referring to the Tamal Vista Apartments, a 180-unit project by Highway 101 in Corte Madera where a factory once emitted wisps of steam while manufacturing Styrofoam cups. The development — which includes 3,000 square feet of groundfloor retail — broke ground in late 2012 and will be fi nished by fall of 2014. But since construction started, many in Marin have decried its very existence. “It’s bigger than I or anyone else ever imagined,” Trudy Garrettson says about the now-half-completed complex.
As to why Corte Madera allowed the project to be built, “we were all but forced to by state housing laws that are administered by the Association of Bay Area Governments (ABAG),” Furst explains. In a recent letter to a constituent, she put it this way: “We were between a rock and a hard place. If we didn’t zone for all the units that were mandated, we’d be sued for noncompliance by one of the many a ffordable-housing nonprofits in the region.”
Tamal Vista Apartments is being developed by MacFarlane Partners of San Francisco, which has completed similar projects in New York, Chicago, Seattle and the Bay Area. “Tamal Vista will be one-, two- and three-bedroom, high-end apartments; the project will have LEED Silver certi fication, a private pool and a bocce ball court, and 18 of its units will qualify as a ffordable housing,” says MacFarlane spokesperson Julie Chase.
Yet the debate continues. “It would have been great to see something one or two stories shorter and set back more,” says Michael Lappert, Corte
Madera’s vice mayor. A qualified outsider begs to differ: “I honestly think it should have been ten stories high, leaving considerable open space surrounding it,” says Miles Berger, a 30-year Marin resident, former mayor of Tiburon and noted Bay Area architect. “It’s located close to public transit such as trans-bay ferries, long- and short-range buses and, eventually, the SMART train. We’ve got to get people out of their cars and this is a way to do it.”
Fairfax’s Scott Hockstrasser, a respected Marin land planner, who while not directly involved with the project has closely followed it, says, “I firmly believe they are building the right project. Corte Madera is growing up, with major shopping centers, several car dealerships and a certain amount of commercial/industrial; it’s spreading its urban tentacles and becoming an ‘edge city,’ more than a suburb yet less than urban.” His only disappointment: “I wish it included more than just 18 a ffordable units.”
centrally located Tamal Vista Apartments are within walking or biking distance of four shopping centers, including the well-established Bon Air Center and the rapidly developing Marin Country Mart, as well as numerous restaurants and cafes and the renowned Book Passage, where famous authors frequently appear. There’s also proximity to K-through-12 schools, several parks, a scenic walking and biking trail, and almost immediate freeway access.
“Yes, it’s big; yes, it’s dense,” concedes Furst, “but I do believe the developer designed a very attractive project, and when it’s done it will be an attractive, if dense, addition to our town.”
On this last statement, I’m in complete agreement with the mayor; moreover, I believe Marin County will be seeing several similar projects in coming years. That’s my point of view. What’s yours?
Email pov@marinmagazine.com.
The
Your Letters
Let’s Play
In the August issue we spotlighted images of street safety signs (Details, “At Play”) and asked readers to send some photos of their own. Stephanie Sanford shared this shot of a clever sign purchased at a store in Lake Tahoe and on display near her San Anselmo home.
Take the Tour
Based upon the letters (Your Letters, “Air Force vs. Navy” November 2013), I would suggest readers consider a visit to the Hamilton Field History Museum to learn more about this large piece of Marin County history. You will be pleasantly surprised. JOE WILLIAMS, HAMILTON MUSEUM CURATOR, VIA EMAIL
Measure F
Jim Wood, I firmly agree with your position (POV, “Is Marin General a Good Investment?” November 2013) that it is important to rebuild Marin General Hospital. However, I must ask whether, in your support of the project, you have considered a more imminent and lasting threat than earthquakes — sea level rise due to climate change. If you are familiar with Bay Conservation and Development Commission flood maps, the lands along Corte Madera Creek,
ONLINE, WE ASKED YOU
Which local boutiques have the most unusual and charming gifts?
“Gift talk already?”
Sandra Cannon
“Item Shoes.”
Joy Goldberg
“Kathleen Dughi Jeweler.”
Shahasp Valentine
“Terrestra.”
Ely Horn
“Tyler Florence Shop.”
Deborah Freed Goldman
including the hospital vicinity, all face the prospect of significant and permanent flooding. As this construction is a long-term infrastructure project, planners must consider climate impacts. Rebuilding at the current location may prove seismically sound, but the climate impacts must also be addressed. I am making no assumptions about whether this issue is adequately addressed in rebuilding plans, but would appreciate your thoughts on this. CARLEEN CULLEN, VIA EMAIL
If Marin General Hospital is owned by the residents of Marin County, it would be helpful to understand whether uninsured people can expect to receive care there free of charge. My understanding is that MGH does not provide such services, leaving Marin Community Clinics, Rotary clinics and others to care for our poorer neighbors. I think that’s why some Marin residents are not eager to have taxpayer funds going to that hospital. CAM JO, VIA EMAIL
In this period of political ennui in our leaders, let us the citizens think about the common good over specific individual advantages. As a practicing structural engineer in the Bay Area for more than 40 years I find it encouraging to see that San Francisco has recently adopted a mandatory seismic retrofit program of soft-story wood frame and residential unit structures.˛The continuing functioning capability of such an important and critical community resource as a central hospital in the time of such a major earthquake is surely something all residents can join in supporting. PETER CULLEY, VIA EMAIL
Scotch Broom
Jim Wood, thanks for an excellent, balanced article (POV, “Battling Broom” May 2013). The real world always involves trade-o˝ s, as much as we would prefer things to be “all good, all the time.”˛I know from battling French broom on our property in Mill Valley that its control is extremely di˙ cult.˛The key is that any herbicides applied to plants be done strictly in accordance with proper practices such as no wind, no excess application, a hot day followed by a dry one so the herbicide is absorbed quickly into the plant and not washed into the environment.˛Clearly MMWD is not a spray-happy, antienvironment outfit and can be trusted, under the watchful eye of us environmentally
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conscious citizens, to use any glyphosate herbicide properly. WILLIAM MCGLASHAN
SR., VIA EMAIL
Jim, I am committed to fi nding a solution to this terrible Scotch broom problem and to getting the disparate groups together to agree on the best course of action. The current inaction is intolerable. I will bring the Sierra Club and the Tamalpais Hiking Clubs. Let’s figure out how to get the other players together and “call the gathering.” I am eager to get your reply.
JAMIE SUTTON, STINSON BEACH
Jim, in your May 2013 issue you wrote an article about the Scotch broom problem in Marin. Also in this issue you wrote about your “Marin to Mendocino” (Destinations, May 2013) trip. We also took this trip in January and were shocked to see miles and miles of thick clumps of ugly, invasive and nonnative pampas grass spreading along the hills. Did you see this? It is a mess. It made me sick. I emailed the California Native Plant Society of Santa Rosa and Marin asking if anything could be done. They responded that neither the federal, state nor local agencies have plans to remove these invasive plants. It is such a shame because the problem of invasive plants will only get worse. BARBARA REISING, VIA EMAIL
Misplaced
I found an error in “On the Scene” (November 2013). You listed the Mill Valley Film Festival opening as being held at the Mill Valley Art and Garden Center in Mill Valley. T here is no such place. T he MVFF opening was held at the Outdoor Art Club in Mill Valley. The organization was founded in 1902 and the Bernard Maybeckdesigned building has been at 1 West Blithedale since 1904. It is a national, state and local historic landmark. JANIS BOSENKO, PAST CLUB PRESIDENT, VIA EMAIL
There was a mistake in the story on New Zealand (Journey, November 2013). The capital of the country is Wellington, not Christchurch. PETER CULLS, VIA EMAIL
Personal, powerful wealth management
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Your comments may be edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine , One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965, or email us at letters@marinmagazine com . Please include the town where you live and a daytime phone number.
Lighten Up for the Holidays
Usually pack on the pounds between now and New Year’s, then resolve to lose it later? Don’t let the Holidays weigh you down.
Friend us to share RSVP Hot Ticket photos at facebook.com/marinmagazine
[UPCOMING EVENTS]
December 6 preview, 6–9 p.m.;
December 7–8, 11 a.m.–6 p.m.
Industrial Center Building (ICB), 480 Gate 5 Road, Sausalito
The ICB Winter Open Studios celebrates its 45th year with more than 80 visual artists opening their studios to the public. For the anniversary celebration the collective of artists is borrowing from Andy Warhol’s use of the screen test — see the artists behind the art at Gallery 111 on the ground level. Artists will experience their 40 seconds of fame all weekend long. Work will be for sale in mediums including painting, sculpture, photography, digital media, jewelry, printmaking, fiber arts, stained glass and much more.
Free
415.261.7640, icbartists.com, info@icbartists.com
THE MARIN PROJECT
January 18, 6 p.m. cocktails; 7 p.m. concert
Showcase Theatre, 10 Avenue of the Flags, San Rafael
The Marin Project is a live concert of classical, opera, jazz and blues. The event features a silent auction, hors d’oeuvres and wine, followed by a live concert performed by the musicians featured on the album and a live auction. The fundraiser benefits Homeward Bound and the Salvation Army’s Children’s Music Program while proceeds from the CD will go to help end homelessness and hunger in Marin County. Find the album at iTunes, Amazon, themarinproject.com and at Whole Foods, Woodlands Markets and other retailers.
$100
415.892.5252, themarinproject.com
Want to see all the images from our RSVP Hot Ticket events? Visit marinmagazine.com/hotticket for the latest.
• Lori Eanes is a San Francisco–based food and people photographer whose work has appeared in the Wall Street Journal, Sierra magazine, Oakland Magazine and San Francisco Magazine, among others. Her latest project, the book Backyard Roots, features stories, tips and inspiration from 35 West Coast urban farmers.
• San Anselmo resident and chronically disappointing Dipsea contestant Austin Murphy takes a look at the county’s “sharing economy” in this issue. As one of eight children, he reports, he has long been accustomed to sharing. Murphy is a senior writer at Sports Illustrated and is now in his 30th year at that magazine.
In Marin
CELEBRATING THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND CAUSES OF THIS UNIQUE COUNTY
SEASON OF GIVING
What better source of inspiration than Mother Nature for creating homespun gifts and decorations to share with family and friends? We don’t have to look far in Marin for natural resources growing right under our feet and outside the door. During this season of giving, keep it close to home with foraged decorations, artisanal products and repurposed items plucked from Marin’s backyard. Locally made wine, dehydrated garden citrus, kitchen spices and mason jars converge in a do-it-yourself spiced-wine basket decorated with wild pink peppercorns, evergreen clippings, cinnamon sticks and fruit. A hand-printed recipe card ensures proper allocation of the basket ingredients, and if you time it right, you might be invited to stay for a glass. Check out our staff blogs online to learn how to make this homemade gift from local ingredients.
LYNDA BALSLEV
Charitable Outings
Enjoy the holiday season while supporting worthy causes at these Marin-centric charity events. CALIN VAN PARIS
MUSICAL CHARITY Ring in the season with tunes from the The Marin Project collaborative album. The CD encompasses four decades and many genres of music, with 100 percent of profits going to Homeward Bound and the Salvation Army. And for those looking ahead to the new year, the Marin Project Concert will take place January 18 at the Marin Civic Center. themarinproject.com
DOGGIE DINNER Join Guide
Dogs for the Blind on December 11 for its 37th annual holiday luncheon at the Westin St. Francis in San Francisco. All proceeds go to help train and socialize future guide dogs. guidedogs.com
KEEP THE WHEELS TURNING
Singer/songwriter and Larkspur local Michelle Schmitt (below) gives her fifth annual holiday concert benefiting Meals On Wheels of San Francisco. Don’t miss the special show, December 18 at the SFJAZZ Center. sfjazz.org
A WALK TO REMEMBER
Make a pilgrimage to the Smith Rafael Theater on December 6 to catch Walking the Camino: Six Ways to Santiago. The documentary chronicles seven real-life characters as they make their way down the ancient pilgrim path that stretches 500 miles from St. Jean Pied de Port, France, to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. “Walking the Camino gives people the time and space to think, feel and just be,” senior producer Theresa Coleman says of the famed trek. “If you are in transition and questioning your life, the Camino may just be the experience you need to find the answers.” Check out the film and discover how the walk changed the lives of the “cast.” caminodocumentary.org C.V.P.
Living Large
As 2013 wraps up, we would be remiss if we failed to mention the record real estate sale that took place this past October. Villa Belvedere, located at 425 Belvedere Avenue in Belvedere and home of the 2011 Marin Designers Showcase, reportedly sold for more than $25 million — the largest sum ever laid down for a property in Marin County. Originally listed at $45 million, the 15,500-square-foot, three-story home sits on 1.15 acres and boasts seven bedrooms, a private health club, a home theater, bay views and parking for more than 20 cars, among several other amenities. Next Marin Magazine staff arty? We’ll bring the wine. C.V.P.
STARTING AT $143 PP/DO DAILY NON-STOP FLIGHTS STARTING DECEMBER 12
Santa Sightings
Ol’ Saint Nick really gets around this time of year. Here are several locations where you can be sure to catch him (and some reader photos to get you in the spirit) . C.V.P.
BON AIR CENTER Santa stops by for free photos on his way north. December 7, 14 and 21, noon to 4 p.m. bonair.com
MARIN HISTORY MUSEUM ANNUAL HOLIDAY PARTY Visit Boyd Gate House for some good cheer — the bearded one will be stopping in, toys in tow. December 5, 5–8 p.m. marinhistory.org
MILL VALLEY 2013 WINTERFEST
Enjoy the snow slide, skating rink and Santa, all in the Depot Plaza. December 1, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. millvalley.org
NICK’S COVE Santa will arrive by boat and be available for visits and photos. December 8, 3–5 p.m. nickscove.com
NORTHGATE MALL Don’t miss your photo op with Santa at his winter wonderland house, located near Macy’s. December 1–23, Monday–Saturday 11 a.m.–8 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m.–6 p.m.; December 24, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. shopatnorthgate.com
NOVATO’S ANNUAL TREE
LIGHTING Head to downtown Novato for music, Christmas cheer and an
appearance by Mr. Claus. December 7, 4:30–8:30 p.m. cityofnovato.org
SAN ANSELMO HOLIDAY LIGHTING
CEREMONY Swing by Town Hall Plaza for photos with Santa, a tree lighting and seasonal music. December 7, 5–6:30 p.m. sananselmochamber.org
THE VILLAGE AT CORTE MADERA Find the man in red all month long at Santa’s Station by the center court Christmas tree. December 1–23, Monday–Sunday 11 a.m.–5 p.m.; December 24, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. villageatcortemadera.com
TOWN CENTER Get your presents wrapped and take a picture with the big guy in the lobby of the 770 building. December 1, 7, 8, 14–24, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. shoptowncenter.com
WEST END NURSERY The jolly old elf will be available for photos, and be sure to bring an unwrapped toy for Santa Cop (a toy drive sponsored by San Rafael Police and Fire departments). December 7, noon–2 p.m. sanrafaelsantacop.org, westendnursery.com
PEACOCK GAP GOLF CLUB was established in 1959 and has been a popular wedding destination ever since. This month, Peacock opens the doors to its brand-new addition, the Clubhouse, but don’t let the unassuming name fool you — this is an event center the likes of which Marin has never seen. peacockgapgolfclub.com C.V.P.
2 years in planning
1,300 GUESTS INDOORS
1,400 MORE ON THE ROOFTOP DECK
19,400 SQUARE FEET
ZERO other Marin event centers of this size Presented by the Sausalito On The Waterfront Foundation Friday, December 13th Naughty or Nice Ball
Food & Wine Tasting ~ Over Twenty Six Local Restaurants & Wineries, Silent Auction Dancing with WONDERBREAD FIVE Saturday, December 14th
Daytime: Kids Holiday Activities • 10-2pm
Face & Ornament Painting, Cookie Decorating, Entertainment & Mr. & Mrs. Claus Fine Art & Craft Holiday Gift Bazaar • 10-7pm
Fine wine & micro brews, hot chocolate & espresso drinks Brought to you by the Sausalito Art Festival Foundation
Over 50 Lighted Boats, Silent Auction, Food Trucks, No Host Bar, DJ all along the waterfront
Sunday, December 15th
Fine Art & Craft Holiday Gift Bazaar • 10-5pm
Fine wine & micro brews, hot chocolate & espresso drinks Brought to you by the Sausalito Art Festival Foundation
Design by Kimber Communications
New Year’s Eve Sparkle
As 2013 comes to a close, celebrate in style with these shimmering party dresses.
SOOLEY
VERONICA
Layered dress by Deca Paris, $298, at UKO (Corte Madera), 415.927.1370.
Sequin sleeveless dress by Fashionomics, $100, at Aphrodite (San Rafael), 415.457.1023.
Barbie dress by Tart Collections, $158, at Koze (Tiburon), 415.435.1916.
Silk burnout sequined dress by 10 Crosby Derek Lam, $995, at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF), 415.986.4300.
Distressed sequin minidress by Robert Rodriguez, $598, at Intermix (Larkspur), 415.461.0118.
Aurora sequin paillett maxi dress, $850, at Calypso St. Barth (Larkspur), 415.461.1745.
Low-back gown with metal beading by Lavender Brown, $176, at Viva Diva (San Rafael), 415.256.8380.
17 QUESTIONS FOR
Maggie McDonogh
Captain Maggie is the fourth generation of the McDonogh family to ferry passengers from the Tiburon waterfront to Angel Island. It all started with her great grandfather, Samuel McDonogh, who ran McDonogh’s Chowder Boarding House on Tiburon’s Main Street (current site of Waypoint Pizza). Her grandfather, aka Sammy the Skiffman, helped the war efforts and anyone needing a water passage. While contracted to move airplanes on barges in the dark of night for the army, her father, Milton McDonogh, officially created the Angel Island Ferry Company in 1959. Today, the only family-run ferry company in the Bay Area (and possibly the nation) is headed up by Maggie, partner William and their children Sam, Becky and Ben. This holiday season, our own Ferry Godmother (yes, it’s an official nickname) has much to celebrate with the success of her business, her family and vastly improved health now that she’s lost nearly 100 pounds. MIMI TOWLE
1
If you hadn’t been born into the McDonogh family, what job would you do? No idea.
2
The fleet? We have three boats: Tamalpais holds 103, Bonita 98 and the Angel Island, which is about the same length as the others, but my dad built it to hold 400 passengers with excellent clearance [for shallow waters]. If we ever have a real emergency here it’s an asset.
3
Highlights? I love it when people show me old photos of themselves with my dad in the wheelhouse. I’m reminded of how profound one person’s impact can be in a community — I feel completely honored to be doing this for a living.
4
Go-to tour tidbits? I love learning and I love teaching. I always point out wildlife and fun facts, like Captain Juan Gaspar de Portolá discovered the San Francisco Bay by accident when he passed Monterey, or actress Vivian Vance once lived in Belvedere, or how Al Capone moored his boat in Belvedere Cove, much to the frustration of local police. And I also tell the story of when my dad watched Capone being taken to Alcatraz from the railroad; he said all you could see were guards.
5
Wildlife? I’ve thought I was about to hit a log when a giant spray came out of the water and I realized it was a whale; lots of seals, elephant seals and sea lions; and lately I’ve been seeing bay porpoises, which is great news because they were gone for almost 60 years. It looks like they are making a comeback.
6
Most common misconception? When someone calls the bay the ocean, I have my estuary discussion ready to go. This happens often.
7
Top three ferry rides on the planet? Other than the trip to Angel Island, BC Inland Passage to Victoria Island, the English Channel and heading to Tortola in the Virgin Islands.
8
Live in Tiburon? Nope, Mill Valley, in the home my mother, Mary Jane Gilmore, inherited from her mother, Thelma Van Atta Gilmore, who bought it directly from the builder.
9
Changes in Mill Valley? Yes, mostly positive, but I remember when people rode horses down Sycamore Avenue and kids could play flashlight tag without grumpy neighbors and if the guy on Horse Hill forgot to close the gate, we’d help him collect the horses. It was a much smaller town back then.
10
Favorite restaurant? I love the samosa chaat and naan at Prahb Indian Kitchen in Mill Valley or the green curry over quinoa at the Plant.
Boat Captain MILL VALLEY
11
How did you meet William? My dad found him. He walked into the Corinthian Yacht Club looking for work and my dad was impressed. Timing is everything.
12
You lost nearly 100 pounds? After my parents passed, I gained weight and finally, after feeling exhausted all the time and not being able to keep up with my children, I’d had enough. I went on the Paleo diet; it took more than a year, but now I feel like I did in my 20s.
13
Exercise? I love Rudy Kardos’ a.m. spin class at the TPC; I try to make it at least twice a week. Also, Bikram yoga, boogie boarding at Stinson, being outside with the kids.
14
Indulgences? I do love popcorn and houseroasted coffee.
15
Advice to others on weight loss? Worst-case scenario is you lose some weight and just maybe some of those aches and pains will go away. I don’t miss any of my old vices.
16
Favorite drink and where to drink it? My daughter’s lemonade, at home.
17 Your contract with the state is coming up for bid soon; are you nervous? Yes, our family has been running this ferry service since before Angel Island was a state park. We can just do our best and hope we keep the contract. We rely on the support of the community. m
Creating Independent Learners
MADE BY MARIN
Thomas Fetherston I
Marin a ranch in
N A WORLD peppered with Pottery Barns and Restoration Hardwares, home furnishings are fairly easy to come by. But what happens if that round, polished sandalwood table that seats 16 has yet to be realized by your favorite big box home store? Enter Custom Furniture Design. Founded in 1978 by West Marin resident Thomas Fetherston, CFD can bring your furniture visions to life, literally — the company has built its reputation on a knack for designing whatever is needed, no matter the size, period or style. PHILOSOPHY Whether you choose to commission a custom piece or invest in one of Fetherston’s designs, everything is handcrafted to order. “Every piece we make is one-of-a-kind and unique,” he says. “Our goal is to bring the age-old craft of fi ne furniture making to every design for lasting quality and presence.” THE SCOOP Clients typically visit CFD with a desire for something special and, conferring with Fetherston and his craftspeople, design the perfect piece of furniture. Fetherston then follows up with sketches and samples for approval. Custom pieces can be formal, crafted from polished exotic woods, or rustic, made to look like they have been in your family for generations — and everything in between. BEYOND MARIN Although Fetherston and his working studio are now located in San Francisco’s design district, he credits the West Marin countryside (he and his wife, Cynthia, live on a horse ranch in Lagunitas) for much of his creative inspiration; many of the original prototype designs are crafted in his barn. When the lease on his current studio expires, Fetherston plans to move his business to San Rafael. WHAT THEY SAY “Versatility, fi ne workmanship and our vast experience are what make CFD unique. We can design, engineer and fabricate anything from a 20-foot-long rustic wine-tasting table for a local winery to a leather-wrapped remote-control TV lift cabinet for a VIP’s bedroom.”
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The ’60s enclave of Druid Heights still exists, but you won’t find it on any map.
BY JIM WOOD PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER
IN THE 1960 s , a community of activists, poets, mystics and radical thinkers lived on the southwest flank of Mount Tamalpais. The area was called Druid Heights, and it was surrounded by groves of pine, oak and eucalyptus and acres of chaparral, sage and clinging vines. It took well over a mile on a rutted dirt road to reach the place.
Now, more than 50 years later, Druid Heights is still surrounded by dense trees, chaparral and hilly terrain — and getting there still takes almost two miles of travel over a rocky dirt road. The activists, mystics and poets are gone, and only two of the original 14 buildings are still habitable. Yet because of Ed and Marilyn Stiles, its legacy remains strong.
“We moved here in 1965,” says Ed, an a ffable 74-year-old who’s made a living over the decades designing and crafting one-of-a-kind hardwood furniture for Bay Area churches and upscale
We came from a conservative background, but as a young couple Marilyn and I wanted to be close to nature, work with our hands and own our own lives.
homes. “We came from a conservative background, but as a young couple Marilyn and I wanted to be close to nature, work with our hands and own our own lives.” Over the years, Marilyn, a sculptor, and Ed, a woodworker, did just that, while raising two sons and building a marriage that has lasted 48 years. While at Druid Heights, they also encountered, at close range, enough 1960s and ’70s counterculture to fi ll a Tom Wolfe novel.
During its prime in the late 1960s, “Druid Heights consisted of 10 to 12 residences and maybe 34 people,” Marilyn recalls. “Our neighborhood was named by the poet Elsa Gidlow,” Ed adds. “She bought the land in partnership with my friend Roger Somers.” One cultural historian claims the name honors Gidlow’s close friend Ella Young, a UC Berkeley poetry professor given to wearing purple gowns like those wore by druids in medieval Europe.
Somers was a white-haired, white-bearded philosopher, musician and woodworker who would “work and play with equal intensity and switch from one to the other with greater ease than anyone I’ve ever known or even heard
about,” Ed says. He “would enter a room and suck the air right out of it,” Marilyn adds.
But if Somers stirred things up at Druid Heights, his lady-friend Margo St. James was the magnet who lured creative types here from the outside during 1967’s Summer of Love. The legendary HaightAshbury free-clinic operator, crusader for decriminalization of prostitution, and president of COYOTE (Call Off our Old Tired Ethics) “seemed to know everyone who was anyone at the time,” Marilyn notes.
It was Elsa Gidlow, nearly 70 at the time, who brought the Anglican minister turned Zen philosopher Alan Watts to the enclave. The year was 1968, and Watts’ recently published The Joyous Cosmology: Adventures in the Chemistry of Consciousness, about the effects of LSD, was attracting nationwide attention. “He was quite a presence,” Ed recalls, “but I don’t know if it was all for the good. Granted, he was an intellect, but he was also a bit of an opportunist.”
This page, clockwise from top left: Interior of the home of Ed and Marilyn Stiles; exterior of the same home; Ed Stiles in his woodworking shop.
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One Druid Heights resident Ed remembers fondly is Pulitzer Prize–winning poet Gary Snyder, who lives in the Sierra foothills today. “Like Marilyn and me, he was married with two children, and we had wonderful talks; I thought he was a genius,” Ed says. “Having Gary as a neighbor was the best of Druid Heights, he was the purest intellect I’ve ever met.” Notable visitors who were known to live there or stop in frequently include author Tom Robbins, musician Dizzy Gillespie, photographer Imogen Cunningham, rockers Neil Young and Graham Nash and feminist lawyer Catharine MacKinnon, author of a landmark
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Notable visitors included author Tom Robbins, musician Dizzy Gillespie, photographer Imogen Cunningham and rockers Neil Young and Graham Nash.
book on workplace sexual harassment. “One afternoon, I went looking for our boys and ran into Lily Tomlin,” Marilyn adds with a laugh. Ed’s favorite memory: “On a moonlit night, I climbed into my hot tub and there was Judy Collins — we had a delightful conversation.” More than anything else, he reflects, Druid Heights “was an intense manifestation of what was going on in the city at the time, only with a rura l fl ip.” Imagine “going down a dark rocky road,” he adds, “and fi nally coming upon a secluded community where, in a workshop, a group of people are jamming extemporaneous jazz and Dizzy Gillespie is playing in the middle of it all.”
By the early 1970s, hard drugs were also fi nding their way in. “One new neighbor, one of the ‘Owsley people,’ supposedly an originator of clear-light acid, started bringing the stuff n a regular basis,” says Ed, “and soon, instead of musical instruments, we were hearing about guns some thought were needed for their security.” Little by little, the spirit of achievement, adventure and fun disappeared.
Are the Stileses, the last of the original Druid Heights residents, angry now? “I don’t like to think of myself in that way,” Ed replies. “I’ve had so many good breaks; how can I bitch about what happened?”
In 1973, Alan Watts died while living at Druid Heights; then in 2001, two days after 9/11, the charismatic Roger Somers was found dead in his hot tub. Two years later the Golden Gate National Recreation Area purchased the five-acre property; under the terms of the negotiations, the Stiles retained the right to live there the rest of their lives.
Elsa Gidlow died in 1986 at age 88 while living on the property. Margo St. James, 77, lives and grows organic fruits and vegetables in the San Juan Islands, near her hometown of Bellingham, Wash. The National Park Service, which oversees the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, is now pondering whether or not to place Druid Heights on the National Register of Historic Places.
Sitting contentedly today in his home that was originally a chicken barn, Ed notes that Druid Heights was “an unintentional community,” as residents used to say. He’s not particularly anxious that its story be told, but “I had more fun here than I’d ever had in my life,” he freely admits. “Still, a lot of good work was done here,” he adds. “It was unpredictable and sporadic; you never knew what you’d find.” m
’Tenders to the Toast
Mixing it up with some of the county’s most beloved bartenders.
BY MIMI TOWLE AND CALIN VAN PARIS
PHOTOS BY LORI EANES
Years bartending? It’s been 26 years off and on.
˜ Where else? Baxter’s Nightclub four years, Acapulco Cantina one year, Uncle Charlie’s one year, Faultline nightclub five years, Lark Creek Inn four years, Ondine one year; Bedroxx, Tazmania, Ricardo’s, Berman’s, many overlapped.
Like best about Buckeye? It’s a real bar, a nice bar, not a dive or an adjunct to a restaurant. People go to the Buckeye to go to the bar.
Signature cocktail? Rye Manhattan: Michter’s, Aperol, orange bitters, giant ice cube with a frozen cherry.
Secret drink? I do enjoy a mai tai every once in a while, with an umbrella, but only in secret.
When someone has had too much, you say… Easy way: “Let’s get you some coffee and a ride home.” Hard way: “You either leave here in a yellow car or a black-and-white one.”
Favorite˜bar? 19 Broadway (seen some great shows) or Farmshop (comfortable and convenient).˜
˜ Favorite drink and where?˜Meyer lemon cucumber kamikaze at Boca Tavern; I finally taught Brian how to make it.
˜ What career would you compare bartending to? Marathon runner/psychologist. Twelve miles a day (I used a pedometer once) with people telling you their problems all the way.
˜ Go-to joke?˜Guest: “Can we get a drink here?” Me: “Sure, we’re even thinking of opening up a bar around here.”
StoryIt’s truly shocking what people will do or talk about right in front of a bartender; while I’m just three feet away, it’s like I’m invisible. Or it’s fun how they will remember me from one of their memorable nights. A couple came in a while ago and showed me a photo I had taken years ago. The wife said, “It’s when I told my husband I was pregnant,” and the next photo was of their 17-year-old daughter. I don’t remember taking the photo, but I probably did. For me it’s another day at work, but for many people it’s a significant event.
JEFF BURKHART hasbeentendingbarformore than13yearsattheBUCKEYE ROADHOUSE in Mill Valley,andwiththerecentpublicationofhisbook TwentyYearsBehindBars:TheSpiritedAdventures ofaRealBartender,hisidentityasthetell-allonline columnistTheBarFlywasrevealed.Hisadviceto future bartenders: Wear comfortable shoes and rememberit’snotaboutyou,it’sabouttheguest.
EL DIABLO
MANHATTAN
StoryMen are taught that the way to a woman’s heart is through chocolate. Through my years of bartending I’ve learned that it’s not chocolate — it’s salt content. These days it’s proven by the popularity of the dirty martini among women. So guys, for a fun night, fi x your gal a really dirty martini, put out a bowl of salt-and-vinegar potato chips and stand back and let the party begin.
BOBBY FONTAINE hasbeenbartendingatWILDFOX in Novatoforaboutthreeyears.Hestartedoutasarestaurant manager,butonceheacquiredatasteforbartending,that wasit;there’snojobhe’dratherhave.Hisadvicetofuture bartenders:Enjoy.
Years bartending? Decades.
Where else? Noonan’s Bar and Grill.
˜ Like best about WildFox? Since we are next to the Best Western, I get to meet interesting people like photographers on assignment and race car drivers.
˜ Signature cocktail? Cafe Robert: Baileys, Cointreau and coffee — it’s short and sweet and will keep you up all night.
˜ Secret drink? Dahlia’s Delight: Baileys, Kahlua, Frangelico and cream.
If someone’s had too much, you say… “How about some water?” They usually get the hint.
Favorite bar? Benissimo in Corte Madera.
Favorite drink? Triple M: Midori, margarita, martini. Any Hawaiian island will do.
˜ What career would you compare bartending to? When I first started, I thought I would have to be a jet fighter pilot and rock ’n’ roll star to have a job better than this —and I still feel that way.
Go-to joke?˜How come cannibals don’t eat clowns? They taste funny.
FOX FLAMBÉ
Story
As a relatively new bartender, I’d say my favorite story would be a fun game I play with a bartender who works at a neighboring bar. We love to see how many guests throughout our shift we can send to the other one’s bar. Most guests typically come in for one or two, but when they meet us, they’ll be there for hours. They take lots of pictures, make great memories and become longtime returning customers.
COURTNEY CUMMINGS of BARREL HOUSE TAVERN is fairly new to bartending. She is now spending some time in New Orleans honing her craft but will be back at Barrel House come June. Advice to future bartenders: Learn every day. Ask questions and experiment as often as possible. Learn your products and how they work together. Oh, and have fun, because bartending is one of the best jobs out there.
Years bartending? My one-year anniversary was on September 25, but I have been in the food-serving business for 15 years.
Where else? Before the Barrel House I worked at the Beach Chalet in San Francisco for three years. When the general manager and my mentor Ginny Brown moved from the Chalet to Barrel House, she brought me along.
Like best about Barrel House? The owner, Chris Henry, and Ginny encourage us to be creative and bold. They continually nurture our inner mixologist.
Signature cocktail? I created a cocktail before I left called Sweet November (you know, after the movie with Charlize Theron filmed in San Francisco). It’s a simple take on our barrel-aged Manhattan with creme de cacao, lemon juice and a pumpkinspiced cinnamon.
˜ Secret drink? I love sweet and spicy, so serrano peppers muddled with passion fruit makes for one upgraded margarita. Don’t forget the cilantro and hibiscus-sugared rim.
˜ When someone has had too much you say… I have a trick most of us call “juicing.” It’s when we serve the guest everything but the alcohol in their mocktail. It makes the situation better for everyone and˜the guest leaves a little more sober.
˜ Favorite bar? The Mix on 18th and Castro [in S.F.]. They have maintained the same friendly staff for years. There’s no better feeling than walking into a bar where everyone knows your name, and Silvia makes the best handcrafted cocktails.
˜ Favorite drink and where? I have had the best Corpse Reviver #2 repeatedly at Tunnel Top [in the city] over by Broadway. Nothing fancy, just solid and refreshing.
˜ What career would you compare bartending to? I don’t think it’s really comparable to any other job. We work very flexible hours; people pay me to have a great time, put on a show and be free to create. What more is there?
˜ Go-to joke? I don’t have one yet!
THE PIONEER AND BABY-FACED NELSON
Years bartending? I’ve been doing it for 32 years.
˜ Where else? In Chicago, San Francisco and in the Russian River area. What do you like best about Marin Joe’s? The regulars. They’ve treated me very well over time — of course, they may just be feeling sorry for an old geezer. A special shout-out to my favorite Shirley Temple drinkers: Ethan and sister Elise.
˜ Signature cocktail? Sammyslammer.
Secret drink? The Slammer, mentioned above, because it’s never the same — it’s a secret to me half the time.
If someone has had too much, you say… Working a bar in the city, I had a regular who’d had enough to drink, so I called a cab. When it arrived, I told the guy the cab he asked for had arrived. He left, but the next day he came in and said, “I didn’t ask for a cab last night, did I?” So it goes.
Favorite bar? Red’s Recovery Room, Cotati. It was such a great name Tom Waits used it in a song. Unfortunately, the place has gone away.
˜ Favorite drink and where? Back when I used to drink, I liked Irish coffees a lot — an upper and downer in the same glass. Buena Vista in the city and Brennan’s in Berkeley were the best.
What career would you compare bartending to? It ain’t rocket science.
˜ Go-to joke? A guy walks into a bar and orders 15 shots of whiskey; bartender sets ’em up. Guy starts slammin’ ’em down, one after the other. Bartender says, “Hey, slow down, why are you drinking like that?” The guy replies, “If you had what I have, you’d be drinking like this too.” Bartender says, “Oh man, whatta you got?” The guy says, “One dollar.”
StoryA woman comes into the bar many years ago on a very busy night. She asks for a Pink Squirrel (cocktail). I had no idea what went into a Pink Squirrel (and still don’t) so I made something up, adding this and that until it sort of turned pink. The woman drank it, shoved the empty glass my way and said, “That wasn’t a Pink Squirrel but I’ll take another.” Another what? I forgot immediately what I’d put in the glass. I suppose I made her another “pink thing” but I don’t remember. It was a long time ago.
SAM GULBRANDSON has been holding court at MARIN JOE’S for 21 years. His advice to future bartenders: Don’t take yourself too seriously. C’mon, it’s just bartending.
COSMOPOLITAN
StoryOne day at Rancho Nicasio I was talking with a customer who°told me he was°from Montana. I mentioned that I had°another customer from Montana, who happened to walk in shortly thereafter — turns out they knew each other and hadn’t seen one another in over ten years.
˜ Years bartending? It’s been 14 years.
˜ Where else? I started˜at Gatsby’s in Sausalito,˜for about a year, then at Saylor’s Landing for seven years until it closed in 2007.
What do you like best about the places you work? I˜basically look forward to going to work, connecting with customers and the crew of either place — cooks, dishwashers, bussers, waitstaff, hostesses, other bartenders.
˜ Signature cocktail? I’ve been told I make a very good n egroni.
Secret drink? Can’t tell you.
˜ If someone has had too much, you say… There are times I will ask if a person is driving when I think they’ve reached˜the limit but they want another drink.˜Sometimes there is no delicate way to cut people off or get their keys from them — you just have to be straightforward with them (and alert management).
Favorite bar? Peri’s in downtown Fairfax.
Favorite drink and where? Chardonnay, at home after a busy shift.
˜ What career would you compare bartending to? Counseling, and sometimes babysitting.
˜ Go-to joke? Thom O’Sullivan stopped into the Shamrock Lounge every Thursday and ordered three pints, sayin’, “Here’s one for me brother, one for me father and one for meself.”˜Then one Thursday he ordered two pints, and when the bartender asked why, he said, “I quit drinkin’.”
Where else? Picco five years, Insalata’s five years and Vasco for three. Like best about El Paseo? Working with the old and rare bottles in Sammy’s cellar.
˜ Signature cocktail? Old Crow old-fashioned (my grandmother’s drink of choice — first cocktail I ever made).
˜ Secret drink? Blood orange margarita.
˜ If someone has had too much you say… “How far do you have to travel tonight?” Favorite bar? Willi’s in Healdsburg or MoMo’s before a Giants game.
˜ Favorite drink and where? A gin-and-tonic˜at the PGA West clubhouse in Palm Springs overlooking the 18th green after a round of golf.
˜ What career would you compare bartending to? A baseball catcher.
Go-to joke?˜A barman says, “We don’t serve time travelers here.” A time traveler walks into a bar.
StoryA few years ago I was working at a restaurant frequented by quite a few match.com dates. One evening a woman sat at the bar and ordered a glass of wine and said she was meeting a blind date.°After the date arrived, they began their conversation and I could tell right away that his comments were not making an impression — she quickly broke o˛ the date. He paid the tab and left.°About a half hour later she returned and had a drink.°We actually had a couple of dates before I met the woman who became my wife at the same restaurant.°This female customer and I have been friends ever since.
ANCHOR STEAM
DARE TO SHARE
Marinites reap the unexpected rewards of the shared economy trend.
BY AUSTIN MURPHY COLLAGE BY VERONICA SOOLEY
TO BETTER UNDERSTAND ONE OF THE MOST POWERFUL
socioeconomic trends washing over this county — and country — consider the case of Leila, who preferred that we not use her last name.
Leila and her husband moved to Sausalito in 2000. They were comfortable — both had lucrative careers — but not necessarily happy. After their divorce in ’03, she went back to school to become a therapist. “Very rewarding, much less lucrative,” she says. “But I wanted to live my life, instead of live for retirement.”
She streamlined and economized. She grew food in her backyard. To help pay the mortgage on her three-bedroom home, she lived with a succession of roommates. It seemed like a good idea at the time. “But when you’re between 35 and 40,” says Leila, with a smile, “you realize that doesn’t work. I mean, people are lovely, but I don’t want them living in my house.”
AAtheir loft to conventioneers unable to fi nd hotel rooms, that
FRIEND SUGGESTED SHE try Airbnb, a website connecting people who have space to spare with those looking for a temporary place to stay. Founded five years ago by a pair of broke San Franciscans who rented the living room in their loft to conventioneers unable to fi nd hotel rooms, that site had facilitated lodging for 8.5 million guests as of last September — more than a few at chez Leila, who overcame her initial skepticism.
In a 2011 TED talk that has generated more than 365,000
September — more than a few at chez Leila, who overcame her initial skepticism.
“At first I thought, Yeah, that’s all I need is complete strangers traipsing through my house ” But she heeded people’s suggestions about the possible benefits and opened her mind. “I really believe the universe sends you little signals.”
Three years ago Leila created an Airbnb profile and made one of her spare bedrooms available for rent. Her experience has been highly positive. “In eight nights, I could make as much in rent as I could from having a full-time roommate,” she says. At fi rst, she rented the room only seven or eight nights per month. As time went on, she says, “I realized, I really enjoy doing this. I was meeting some really great people.”
In a 2011 TED talk that has generated more than 365,000 views, Mill Valley resident Lisa Gansky, author of The Mesh: Why the Future of Business Is Sharing, attributed the rise of the sharing economy to various factors. Those “vectors,” as she calls them, include population growth (“more people, smaller spaces, less stu° ”), a recession that forced people to “rethink our relationship with the things in our lives, relative to [their] value,” and a technological revolution connecting each of us to “more people on the planet than ever before.”
One of the many upsides of this new-school mode of commerce is that it engenders old-school behaviors like socializing. Face to face! Not Skyping or FaceTiming, but in person. People come for the modest income stream, but, like Leila, they end up staying for the excellent company — for the sense of community that these transactions tend to foster.
IN EIGHT NIGHTS, I COULD MAKE AS MUCH IN RENT AS I COULD FROM HAVING A FULL-TIME ROOMMATE.
Like many Marin residents, Leila harbors a robust pride of place. She takes pleasure in sharing the county’s treasures: hiking trails, farmers’ markets, beaches. “I’ve got a guest here now from Cyprus,” she said in September, “just a fascinating woman. I’ve had all these really interesting visitors. I get to meet these amazing people from all over the world doing cool things with their lives.” Not long ago, she took one of her guests all the way out to Limantour Beach. “We got along really well,” she recalls. “And it’s neat to show people Marin and how incredible this place is.”
“More than almost anything else we can do, sharing takes a load off people,” says Janelle Orsi, a Berkeley-based lawyer whose books include Practicing Law in the Sharing Economy and The Sharing Solution: How to Save Money, Simplify Your Life and Build Community. Sharing, she says, “takes an environmental load o° the world. And it makes our lives better, because we’re social creatures, and when we connect with each other, we just naturally feel good.”
really well,” she recalls. “And it’s neat to show people Marin
Mark her down as a highly satisfied participant in Marin’s sharing economy, which, incidentally, o° ers far more than an inexpensive place to lay one’s head at night. You can log in to sites serving as digital clearinghouses for goods and services ranging from parking (parkingpanda.com) to pet care (dogvacay.com) to power tools (snapgoods.com) to, yes, pigs (rootdownfarm.net). And that’s just the p’s. The so-called “sharing economy” is here, and it’s not going away. By capitalizing “on the unused capacity of things they already have,” as Forbes magazine recently put it, Leila and countless others are acting as “part-time entrepreneurs, disrupting old notions about consumption and ownership.”
In full agreement is Scott Adams, a retired architect living in Greenbrae, who has made friends from Brooklyn to Barcelona to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, thanks to Airbnb. “We’re people people,” he says, explaining why he and his partner, Marti, prefer the personal interactions that come with staying in someone’s home, versus the antiseptic if more predictable and controllable experience of staying in a hotel. By staying in non-touristy neighborhoods and gratefully accepting the guidance of their hosts on where to go and what to do, the traveling duo has wrung the maximum from their journeys.
“The lady in Barcelona had her map out,” Adams recounts; “she told us, ‘Okay, I’ve laid out all the places you want to go, and here’s where you get the subway to get there.’˛” Staying in a different bedroom in the same residence was an Australian couple with whom they’ve become fast friends. “They want us to stay with them,” says Adams, “and we’ve invited them to stay with us.”
Of course, the friendships and bonding and restaurant recommends are secondary reasons for the success of Airbnb,
behind the dinero. Instead of dropping $250 per night on hotels in cities like Brooklyn or Paris, Adams is spending $75. “It’s a great way to travel after you retire,” he says. Thanks to Airbnb, “Our vacations are now a month long.”
hotels in cities like Brooklyn or Paris, Adams is spending $75.
This relatively new business model is raising new questions about who owes what to whom. The attorney general of New York state recently subpoenaed host data from the 225,000 New Yorkers on Airbnb’s site. FlightCar, the peer-to-peer car sharing and parking service, was sued last spring by the city of San Francisco˜for operating as a rental car company without having jumped through all the required legal hoops at SFO. Airport o° cials even reported arresting drivers of other ride-dispatching services like Uber and Lyft over the summer for misdemeanor trespassing violations amid complaints from local taxi drivers also operating out of SFO. City councils all over the country are considering ordinances to better regulate — and, tax — these short-term rental services.
“Almost everything that’s happening in the sharing economy is in a bit of a gray area,” says Orsi, “because it’s somewhere between what we usually do at home, with our families, and what we usually do in the context of business. If we open up our homes for a community dinner and charge a fee, or if we start to rent our cars for a few dollars an hour, it does start to creep toward that commercial zone. It’s hard to know where the line is.”
It’s also di° cult to imagine this movement fading away. Orsi sees things going in the opposite direction. With so many models and platforms for sharing “popping up everywhere,” the culture is changing. “Ten years from now,” she says, “ we’ll probably have di˛ erent expectations about how we get our needs met.”
Who knows how many cool people Leila will have met by then? “I thought I was doing it for the money,” she says. “But it’s ended up enriching my life.” m
AIRBNB Find places to stay in 192 countries. airbnb.com
DOGVACAY Find a local dog sitter. dogvacay.com
BIKE SHARE Borrow parked bikes from kiosks around the city with just a swipe of a member card. sfbike.org/bikeshare
FON Lend out a portion of your home Wi-Fi and gain access to Wi-Fi networks in all corners of the world. fon.com
GETAROUND Rent out cars by the hour in your community. getaround.com
LENDING CLUB Join this online financial community to experience a simpler method of borrowing and investing. lendingclub.com
LYFT Enjoy peer-to-peer ride-sharing for a simple “donation” rather than a fare. lyft.me
MARIN OPEN GARDEN PROJECT Exchange excess fruit, vegetables and other goodies with other county gardeners. opengardenproject. blogspot.com
NEIGHBORGOODS Lend and borrow goods, like ladders and tools, in a safe community. neighborgoods.com
PARKING PANDA Reserve discounted parking in more than 500,000 spaces. parkingpanda.com
POSHMARK What’s in your closet? Buy and sell clothes with this online closet/shopping site. poshmark.com
RELAYRIDES Rent vehicles (or rent out your own) on this nationwide marketplace. relayrides.com
SIDECAR This app matches people in their own car with people nearby for shared rides. side.cr
SNAPGOODS Borrow or rent things you need like bikes or backpacks from someone nearby. snapgoods.com
SPINLISTER Find the best bikes, skis and snowboards to rent online from individuals or rental shops. spinlister.com
TASKRABBIT Get it done. Outsource tasks and errands to fellow TaskRabbits. taskrabbit.com
URBANSITTER Find area babysitters recommended by people you know and trust. urbansitter.com
VAYABLE Get matched with a local to take you on an insider tour during your next vacation, or become a tour guide yourself. vayable.com
YERDLE Give and get for free with Yerdle’s “credit” system. yerdle.com
ZAARLY Request tasks or items for a set price. zaarly.com
ZIPCAR The world’s largest car sharing service. zipcar.com
Members of the Ferrari Owners Group meet on Mount Tamalpais before heading out for a drive.
LIFE IN THE LANE FAST FAST FASTLANEFAST
Some of the world’s flashiest automobiles can be found right here in Marin.
BY DANIEL JEWETT • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER
You see them whizzing by on the freeway or confidently navigating the twisting roads in West Marin. Often they inspire a second look or even a bit of envy as your vehicle becomes just another rapidly diminishing object in a rearview mirror. The high-performance luxury cars of Marin are beautiful, fast, expensive, full of cutting-edge technology and much more common than you might expect. But maybe you already knew that. Along the drive down Highway 101, a Ferrari dealership is followed by Maserati, Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Mini, Audi and Jaguar dealerships. There are few places in the world where luxury car options are so plentiful. It doesn’t hurt that Marin County has one of the highest per-capita income levels in the country, along with continuously mild weather and some pretty amazing roads (see almost any car commercial: they almost always feature a sequence in Marin). The following is a road map, organized by country of origin, featuring some of the most impressive wheels you can expect to encounter on the highways and byways of Marin.
FRENCH PASSION
THE FIRST CAR on our list isn’t available in Marin; you have to go to Los Gatos to pick one up. Just be sure to bring at least $2 million. The line, founded by an Italian, is now made in France and owned by Volkswagen; there are only 10 dealerships in the U.S. But if it’s an exclusive ride you’re looking for, nothing comes close to Bugatti — you don’t have to worry about your neighbor pulling up in one (although one caused quite a sensation at this year’s Marin Sonoma Concours d’Elegance). “The general profile of an owner is someone who is a car enthusiast with a feel for engineering,” says Bugatti’s official driver, Butch Leitzinger. “He is not just looking for a car as jewelry; he understands what he is paying for. This car is the pinnacle of his collection. He understands how special it is.” Indeed, the team behind Bugatti spent years developing a car that would be capable of reaching 254 mph — they had to find a way to handle the forces involved with an unbelievable 1,200-horsepower engine and to stop the car once it got moving. “The engineering challenge was how to put this much power to the ground in a civilized manner,” Leitzinger says. WHAT TO WATCH FOR The series is one-of-a-kind; only 450 will ever be made. About 70 are still available.
ITALIAN STYLE
When you say “high-performance from Italy” one name instantly comes to mind: Ferrari. The company got its start in 1947 when race car driver Enzo Ferrari started manufacturing cars using what he learned on the track. “It all comes from Formula One racing; that was the fi rst purpose,” says Emmanuel Turin, marketing coordinator and sales consultant for Ferrari of San Francisco, which opened in the city in 1993 and moved to its present Mill Valley location in 1994. The cars are still made to order in just one Italian factory, he adds: “There is no match for Ferrari, but there is unmatched pleasure when you drive one.” Joe Keon of Greenbrae agrees — he started the Ferrari Owners Group five years ago and watched it grow from four to 270 members and take up charitable causes. “When I fi rst drove one I couldn’t believe I didn’t roll over and get crushed. I couldn’t believe a car had this capability; it changed me dramatically,” he says. “It felt like I was cheating the forces.” WHAT TO WATCH FOR The Ferrari FF, launched in 2011, is the company’s fi rst production four-passenger, four-wheel-drive car. Also, from Ferrari’s sister company, a reinvention of the Maserati Ghibli — a more a ffordable compact sport sedan version, priced between $65,000 and $75,000 and available with a 345- or 404-horsepower engine.
Maybe it wasn’t the best thing for Jaguar’s image when, in an episode of AMC’s Mad Men, an exhaust-inhalation suicide attempt was foiled by the fact that the car, a vintage Jaguar E-Type, would not start. “Twenty years ago, the quality wasn’t there,” admits Belvedere resident Tom Price, owner of Jaguar Marin and a collector of classic Jaguars. “There was a negative perception about quality with Jaguar, but now the quality is fabulous.” What changed? Jaguar was owned by Ford, but in 2008 it and Land Rover were purchased by India’s biggest vehicle maker, Tata Motors. “They are the best company to be involved with the brand,” Price says. “They are giving Jaguar the strength to do it right.” And just out of the gate it appears they have taken the checkered flag, bringing an affordable, fast (with a decidedly gutsy exhaust note), all-aluminum-body F-Type to the market to rave reviews. “Customers are ecstatic,” Price says. “When they finish test drives, they have big smiles on their faces.” The car has also been celebrated in the Jagazette, the newsletter of the world’s oldest Jaguar club, which is Bay Area–based with many Marin members. WHAT TO WATCH FOR A smaller Jaguar sports car, a Jaguar crossover and, from Jaguar’s sister company, an all-aluminum 500-horsepower Land Rover Sport.
BRITISH DETERMINATION
GERMAN PRECISION
There are some pretty amazing German cars out there — certainly BMW, Mercedes and Audi (all available in Marin) make exceptional vehicles — but when it comes to a brand that screams performance, fans say nothing comes close to a Porsche. “Quality, durability, exclusivity and style — people are interested in and passionate about the brand,” says Bill Lamphere, general manager of Sonnen Porsche in Marin, open since the 1970s. “For many it’s a dream car, the vehicle they’ve wanted since childhood.” And for many, it’s likely that dream started with the iconic 911, a car celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. “Everyone loves the 911; that’s why that car is still with us,” Lamphere says. WHAT TO WATCH FOR The Macan, a smaller version of the extremely popular Cayenne crossover, and the $845,000 918 Spyder plug-in hybrid.
CAR Porsche 911 Cabriolet Carrera S
It would be wrong to write a story about the cars of Marin and leave out the hot new car that seems to be taking over the streets: the Tesla Model S. With service and an appointment-only sales representative now located in San Rafael (sales are primarily online, although a San Rafael showroom is planned), this high-performance allelectric vehicle seems to be the answer for the Marin car owner who likes luxury and performance but wants to stay green. “I wanted to be able to get completely off ossil fuels, and I’m on solar power, so it’s great,” says Kiki Goshay of Kent field, who traded in her Prius for the 60-kWh Tesla model. “I’ve never had a high-performance car or a luxury car, and the Prius was really un-sexy. This car raised my eyebrows; it’s really fun to drive.” She says the car is smoothriding, quiet and doesn’t put out fumes; there are now seven on her block alone. “It costs nothing to drive,” she adds. “And I love not going to gas pumps; I don’t have to stop.”
WHAT TO WATCH FOR The Tesla X crossover in 2014 and a cheaper compact sedan; also a network of new charging stations.
STATS
CAR Tesla Model S, P 85
PRICE $83,570 base
BATTERY 85 kWh
RANGE 265 miles; 0–60 in 4.2 seconds
AMERICAN INGENUITY
FOR THE REST OF US
Okay, okay, we understand that these cars are not within everybody’s reach. And we agree, why should those with an extra $2.5 million lying around have all the fun? For drivers who just want to experience the thrill for a day or two, a new company in Sonoma, started by race car driver and parts supplier Richard Martin, offers classic cars for rent. “Nobody to my knowledge is doing this the way we are doing this,” he says of DB Autosportif. “The level and quality of our cars is excellent.” The 12 cars, mostly from the 1960s, include a ’60 Corvette (pictured), a ’64 Jaguar E-Type S.I. and a ’63 Porsche 356B Cabriolet. They rent for between $325 and $1,600; visit dbautosportif.com. If you get behind the wheel, be ready to turn a lot of heads.
Destinations
THE LATEST LOCAL TRAVEL DEALS AND GETAWAYS PLUS JOURNEYS AROUND THE GLOBE
SKI THE WEST
Upgrades and new terrain make this winter a great time to explore Tahoe and beyond.
BY DAWN MARGOLIS DENBERG
Hitting the slopes at Vail, Colorado.
THE FARMERS’ ALMANAC is predicting a cold, snowy winter. Let’s hope that’s right, because ski resorts around the country are sprucing up infrastructure in hopes of attracting record crowds. Improvements include upgraded chair lifts, additional terrain and new and improved places to stay and play. Here’s a look at what’s new and notable this side of the Continental Divide.
• Tahoe
For starters, there’s plenty to check out in our own backyard. Sugar Bowl, Tahoe’s oldest resort, recently installed a new lift that will whisk skiers into an area previously only accessible to those willing to hike there. “It essentially adds an additional 150 acres of skiable terrain to our resort,” says John Monson, Sugar Bowl’s director of sales and marketing. “Construction is also under way on a new fitness and aquatics studio in our base village.” He expects the dry-land facilities to be up and running by midseason and the indoor/outdoor pool to open by this summer. sugarbowl.com
Elsewhere in Tahoe, the Ritz Carlton at Northstar ’s newest concept restaurant, Backyard Bar & BBQ, is scheduled to open by the end of the month. The menu will include traditional barbecue favorites cooked in an on-site smoker as well as wood-fi red pizzas. All seating at this mid-mountain venue
is alfresco; the term ski-in/ski-out takes on added meaning here. ritzcarlton.com
Squaw Valley fans have a new reason to love the resort: Located in Squaw’s base village, the 1,000-square-foot Wanderlust Yoga Studio gives yogis and yogi wannabes the opportunity to strengthen mind, body and spirit while taking in spectacular views of Squaw’s mountain peak through optimally placed picture windows. wanderlustyoga.com
The Bunker at Woodward Tahoe is another must-see hot spot for adrenaline junkies. The 33,000-square-foot facility at the base of Boreal Mountain is an indoor training facility where skiers, snowboarders, skateboarders, inline skaters, gymnasts and BMX bikers can hone their skills by perfecting trick landings in massive soft foam pits rather than on unforgiving ground. There are also seven trampolines where visitors can practice aerial stunts like fl ips and twists. Other facilities include a pump track, six dropin ramps, an indoor skate park, spring floor and a tumbling track. You don’t have to be a serious athlete to enjoy the Bunker, but only go if you’re serious about fun. woodwardtahoe.com
• Sun Valley
Not much has changed in laid-back Sun Valley, and fans of American’s oldest ski resort will tell you that’s part of its charm. That said, there’s a huge change in how Bay Area folks can access this top-rated ski town. For the fi rst time, visitors can fly directly from SFO to Friedman Memorial Airport, a mere 14 miles from the resort. “This fl ight is also the fi rst regional jet to fly into our local airport,” says Jack Sibbach, the resort’s director of marketing and public relations. “Previously, you had to fly into Boise, drive 120 miles, or come in by prop plane.” visitsunvalley.com
• Vail
Because Vail is so vast, skiers and boarders rarely fi nd the trails congested. Lift lines, however, can get lengthy, especially at the chair that services the resort’s famed Back Bowls and Blue Sky Basin. Now, a new six-person lift is expected to increase rider capacity by 33 percent, dramatically reducing wait lines for the resort’s legendary Back Bowls as well as Blue Sky Basin. Off he mountain, there’s a new place to rest your tired feet with food and libations: Leonora , Vail’s latest foodie hot spot, is an upscale bistro tucked inside the ultrachic Sebastian Hotel. Because the property is both a hotel
Vail’s Sebastian Hotel offers many après-ski pleasures.
WHISTLER BLACKCOMB
and a private residence club, the restaurant and adjacent Frost Bar, which serves 80 different types of scotch and 52 types of tequila, exudes a vibe that’s more alpine supper club than chichi tourist trap. Signature dishes include a slow-roasted leg of lamb and a lobster potpie. Save room for the melting chocolate sphere, a decadent dessert that might also be considered edible art. vail.com, thesebastianvail.com
• Aspen
Farther west down Interstate 70, renovations are now complete at the Hotel Jerome , Aspen’s oldest inn and one of the town’s most cherished historical landmarks. Although the lobby bar never ceased drawing crowds — it’s a see-and-be-seen spot for Hollywood celebrities, rock legends and other movers and shakers — the rooms were looking a bit tired. So last year the owners shuttered its doors for four-and-a-half months and completely overhauled the building. The result: new lighting, new fixtures, new furniture and even a new dining option called Prospect. The American menu includes hearty fare honoring the town’s rich mining history; you’ll find imaginative dishes like venison sweet potato chili and confit of rabbit potpie, but don’t expect any possum stew. hoteljerome.aubergeresorts.com
• British Columbia
As at Vail, moving people up the mountain faster is a goal of the powers that be at Whistler Blackcomb ; they too have replaced an aging quad chair with a new six-seat lift. But visitors to Whistler also have a new way to get down the mountain. It’s called the Superfly, a new high-speed tandem zip line that is reported to be the longest in all of Canada. It’s nearly a mile long and, at one point, up to 600 feet above the valley floor. “You go superfast,” says Kerry Stack, guest services manager for the line’s operating company, the Adventure Group. “Depending on your weight and positioning, your speed can get up to 60 miles per hour.” The tour also includes runs on some slightly less daunting lines, though they’re still not necessarily for the faint of heart. whistler blackcomb.com, super fl yziplines.com m
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EMOTIONAL RESCUE
For an antidote to all that family togetherness at holiday time, Hotel Palomar in San Francisco presents the “Rescue From Relatives” package. It includes a fi rst-time-ever 50 percent discount off the usual rate, plus a few perennial fi lm favorites (Home for the Holidays, The Family Stone, Four Christmases) to take the edge off . Starting at $104. hotelpalomar. com MIMI TOWLE
New Year Getaways
Want to get out of town this New Year’s Eve? Here are a few stylish ways to say salud to 2014. M.T.
• Palm Springs
Grab your party hat and high boots and get down to the desert to play in the latest hot spot, Hard Rock Hotel Palm Springs (above). Located downtown, the 216room hotel opened in October 2013. Rates start at $216. hrhpalmsprings.com
• New York
Celebrate new beginnings in the newest luxe hotel in Midtown, The Quin (yep, one n). The hotel offers 208 guest rooms, including 28 suites, plus proximity to Central Park, Lincoln Center, Carnegie Hall, the Museum of Modern Art and Fifth Avenue fashion. Starting rate is $495. thequin hotel.com
• San Diego
The “Pure Magic”
New Year’s Eve Gala at the Hotel del Coronado includes champagne reception, lavish dinner, dancing to the Mar Dels and a toast with bubbly at midnight. Dinner starts at $300; make it an overnight starting at $225. hoteldel.com
WHERE WAS THAT RESTAURANT?
Think wish list meets scrapbook: Noted is a handy app for travelers who want to remember great places to eat, stay and play at home and abroad. Users “note” their must-visit options the moment they read or hear about them or after they’ve tried them out. Personal curated lists can then be accessed or shared with friends anytime. The app is free from the Apple app store. M.T.
• Santa Barbara
As the Bacara Resort & Spa joins the Meritage Resort family, the property is offering a yearend “Great Gatsby Getaway,” which includes overnight accommodations on New Year’s Eve, two tickets to the Miró party ($300 value) and late checkout. Rooms start at $650. bacararesort.com
• Scottsdale
This city’s newest luxury boutique hotel is also a bike shop: Bespoke Inn. The adjoining restaurant Virtù was named a top 20 “Best New Restaurant” in the U.S. by Esquire magazine. Rooms start at $259. bespokeinn.com
Holidays in Sonoma
Need a break from holiday shopping and parties? Head north for some wine country fun in Sonoma, recently named “Best Wine Destination” by TripAdvisor. Start the month with the lighting of city hall on December 6 at 5:30 p.m. and see Santa arrive by fire truck; then, on December 8, be among the first to see the Lighting of the Snowmen at Cornerstone, accompanied by live music and the chance to take photos of St. Nick in the iconic blue chair, decorate gingerbread men and more. On December 14, join the annual holiday celebration at the Sonoma Mission, with readings and song by candlelight and refreshments next to a war m fire in the Barracks courtyard (this event requires a prepurchased ticket). And to brush up on holiday cooking skills, take a class at Ramekins Culinary School, which offers overnight accommodations in case you don’t want to drive all the way home to Marin. M.T.
Let the Stars
Shine
Big congrats to the Marinites who made the Michelin grade this year: Michael Mina for Michael Mina, Mourad Lahlou for Aziza and Seigo Takei and Keiko Takahashi for Keiko. Here are the other lauded local spots to add to your holiday restaurant list (to see more, go to michelintravel.com).
M.T.
THREE STARS
The French Laundry (Yountville), Napa
The Restaurant at Meadowood (St. Helena), Napa
TWO STARS
Atelier Crenn (Cow Hollow), S.F. Benu (SoMa), S.F. Coi (North Beach), S.F. Quince (North Beach), S.F. Saison (Mission), S.F.
ONE STAR
STARS ON THE SLOPES Skipping Sochi?
Not to worry, you can still catch Olympic action slopeside this January 9–12.
Northstar California Resort is hosting the U.S. Grand Prix, which is the second of three qualifiers for the Russia-hosted 2014 Winter Olympics to be held February 7-23. The series will feature half-pipe and slopestyle (skiing and snowboarding) events and will also be broadcast on NBC Sports. Be there to cheer on Olympic hopefuls Shaun White, Elena Hight, Chas Guldemond, Julia Mancuso, Marco Sullivan and Travis Ganong. northstarcalifornia.com M.T.
Redd Wood (Yountville), Napa Scopa (Healdsburg), Sonoma Sir and Star, Olema Sushi Ran, Sausalito
The Girl and the Fig , Sonoma
Willi’s Wine Bar (Santa Rosa), Sonoma Zero Zero (SoMa), S.F.
THE WINTER CELEBRATION IN OAXACA IS UNLIKE ANY OTHER
La Noche de los
STORY AND PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER
PITY THE POOR radish. Most places, this little red root veggie gets no respect. It’s an afterthought, a crunchy accent, a sad solitary garnish. Always a culinary bridesmaid.
But not in Oaxaca. Here, in this ancient Zapotec city in the highlands of southern Mexico, the radish has its day — or, rather, its night.
Every December, on the eve of Christmas Eve, thousands of Oaxacans, other Mexicans and foreign visitors descend on the zócalo, the city’s central square, to enjoy the spectacle of one of the world’s most unusual — and shortest lasting — displays of folk art: La Noche de los Rábanos (the Night of the Radishes).
Even though the festival — begun, it is said, by Spanish priests as a means to help farmers make the nonnative diminutive vegetable more attractive to shoppers — celebrates its 116th edition this year, it has all the characteristics of a modern-day pop-up event. Long rows of booths are set up the night before. Artists arrive in the morning to arrange their work, spraying the radishes frequently to keep them fresh. The gates open early in the afternoon to accommodate the crowd, and everyone stays late until the fi reworks end the night. By the next morning it’s gone. All of it. The zócalo is empty. The only reminders are scattered radishes lying on the ground, remnants, like empty wine bottles, of a big blowout the night before.
And what a party it was!
Booth after booth of red radishes — many supersized up to two feet in length and six pounds in weight — are carved into elaborate scenes depicting the facets of Oaxaca’s ancient indigenous and modern Mexican cultures: buoyant
BOOTH AFTER BOOTH OF RED RADISHES ARE CARVED INTO ELABORATE SCENES DEPICTING THE FACETS OF OAXACA’S ANCIENT INDIGENOUS AND MODERN MEXICAN CULTURES.
Below: An artist spritzes his display of radishes with water to keep it fresh. Right: Two of the radish carvings. Opposite page: A nativity in the zócalo is always a popular attraction.
folkloric dancers, lucha libre masks, the Virgen de la Soledad (the city’s patron saint), angular skeletons and the lively array of life in the zócalo itself.
Add to that dozens of similar scenes woven out in the two other materials allowed in the exhibition — totomoxtle (corn husks) and flor inmortal (dried flowers), and you have nearly 100 artists in all competing for cash prizes (about $1,200 to the top winner), family pride and village bragging rights.
The square is packed with 20,000 festival-goers — local politicos who come to be seen and photographed, a swarm of local news media and more than the usual crush of teenagers, families and oldsters for whom the plaza is a year-around magnet for strolling , fl irting and drinking coffee or mescal in a sidewalk cafe. The zócalo is Oaxaca’s original social network.
But this night — with the plaza glowing (quite literally) like 100 Christmas trees, and the massive old city hall that fills one whole block bathed in garish floodlights, and the sprawling nativity scene built from wood, papier-mâché and chicken wire surrounded by hundreds of gawking-eyed children, and the large marimba bands and the solitary horn players competing for pesos — the zócalo is elevated from quotidian attraction into a cacophonous carnival of pleasant humanity and civic endeavor, a celebration that, despite the omnipresence of smartphones wielded as cameras, is overwhelming and all-encompassing enough to transport a visitor back to another Mexico, the one where family and food and folklore shaped daily life more than the political nastiness, economic maneuvering and dark narco-violence that dominate headlines today.
Here, in the zócalo, amid the smiles of the radish carvers, beneath the stars of the cool December sky and awash in the good cheer of the Christmas holiday, is a momentary escape from all that is practical, all that is worrisome. La Noche de los Rábanos is a dream, here tonight, gone tomorrow.
After the Festival
Oaxaca during la navidad, the Christmas season, has more to offer than just radishes.
For the religious and history-minded, the city’s best-known churches — the 24-karat-gold gilted Santo Domingo de Guzmán (where the rich go to marry) and the more pedestrian yet still massive Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption on the zócalo (where the poor go to pray) — are festooned wit h flowers and icons.
Leading up to Christmas, churches and theaters in town and in the surrounding villages are good places to see a pastorela (shepherd’s play), which tells the Christian story of the season.
Beginning on December 16 and lasting until December 24, parishes and neighborhoods sponsor Las Posadas, an event marked by colorful processions through the streets
that celebrate the search by Joseph and Mary, the parents of Jesus, for housing in Bethlehem.
Christmas Eve is called La Noche Buena in Oaxaca and the rest of Latin America, and it is a special night for religious services, family dinners and presents and, for those with nocturnal body clocks, midnight mass.
Oaxaca is a popular Christmas destination for Mexicans, many of whom make the five-hour drive south from Mexico City, so foreign visitors should plan ahead and book early. The fi rst hotels to fi ll up are the most expensive and the most economical.
Oaxaca has fully recovered from the political unrest that plagued the city in 2006. The city is bursting with revival. Stylish new restaurants (Biznaga, Garcia Vigil 512; Casa Oaxaca, Constitución #104-A) are everywhere, with modern Oaxacan cuisine trumping the traditional dishes.
Once-dicey neighborhoods bordering the traditional tourist corridor of Alcala are now flourishing with mescal bars (Il Situ, Morelos 511) and nightclubs, art houses and even a New York–style deli (a Reuben in Oaxaca? Si! — Delicatessen Gourmand, Por firio Diaz #410-A), all geared toward Oaxaca’s emerging, educated and wired generation of young adults.
So, go. Eat, pray and love — especially those radishes. m
BY THE NEXT MORNING IT’S GONE. ALL OF IT. THE ONLY REMINDERS ARE SCATTERED RADISHES LYING ON THE GROUND, REMNANTS, LIKE EMPTY WINE BOTTLES, OF A BIG BLOWOUT THE NIGHT BEFORE.
Opposite page: A depiction of the Guelaguetza, Oaxaca’s annual folk dance festival. Above, clockwise from upper left: A figure of a woman woven from totomoxtle (corn husks); the nighttime crowd in front of the stands; a lucha libre mask; an artist’s hands.
Out & About
CALENDAR / ON THE SCENE / DINE
LISTING ON PAGE 87 GALLERIES
Robert Green
Phenomena Wind Tunnel by Paul Jenkins
THEATER / COMEDY / MUSIC / GALLERIES / MUSEUMS / EVENTS / FILM EDITED BY CALIN VAN PARIS
THEATER
DEC 7–28 San Francisco Ballet’s Nutcracker Enjoy the enchanting, Christmas Eve story of a girl and her nutcracker, presented in unique San Francisco fashion. War Memorial Opera House (San Francisco). 415.861.5600, sfballt.org
THEATER
THRU DEC 15 Jacob
Marley’s Christmas
Carol The classic Christmas tale as told through the eyes of Jacob Marley, the ghost of Ebenezer Scrooge’s former business partner. Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). 415.388.5208, marintheatre.org
THRU DEC 15 Snoopy
42nd Moon Street presents a holiday treat in the form of Charlie Brown, Lucy, Linus and of course, Snoopy. Watch as the Peanuts gang sing their way through a series of adventures. The Eureka Theatre (San Francisco). 415.255.8207, 42ndstmoon.org
THRU DEC 15 Harvey
Ross Valley Players present the Pulitzer Prize–winning play about Elwood P. Dowd, a mild-mannered man who claims his best friend is an invisible, six-foot-tall white rabbit named Harvey. The Barn Theatre (Ross). 415.456.9555, ross valleyplayers.com
DEC 3–8 Potted Potter
All seven Harry Potter books condensed into 70 minutes, aided by multiple costume changes, songs, props and magic. Marines’ Memorial Theatre (San Francisco). 888.746.1799, shnsf.com
DEC 11–15 Cirque
Dreams Holidaze An international cast of multitalented artists perform a holiday show that features gingerbread gymnasts, toy soldier tightrope walkers and reindeer soaring high above. Curran Theatre (San Francisco). 888.746.1799, shnsf.com
DANCE
ONGOING Israeli Folk
Dancing Learn dances that combine Middle Eastern, Eastern European, Latin and African traditions inspired by the ambience of Israeli festivals. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000, marinjcc.org
DEC 14–15 Marin
Ballet’s Nutcracker
Marin Ballet tops off its 50th anniversary season with a fulllength version of the classic tale. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.473.6400, marincenter.org
DEC 21 Sophie and the Enchanted Toyshop
Join Sophie on her magical journey to the Snow Kingdom as she
dances alongside toy clowns, soldiers, bunnies and dolls from around the world. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.473.6400, marincenter.org
COMEDY
TUESDAYS Mark Pitta and Friends
The comic hosts an evening for up-and-comers and established headliners to work on new material. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmorton theatre.com
DEC 31 Other Cafe Comedy Showcase
Featuring comedy about relationships and modern America from Mark Cordes, Cathy Ladman and Bob Alper. Enjoy cocktails and an after-party with the comedians.
Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000, marinjcc.org
MUSIC
TUESDAYS Swing Fever
The band pays tribute to jazz artists and composers with selections from its roster of more than 1,000 tunes, every
fi rst and third Tuesday. Panama Hotel (San Rafael). 415.457.3993, panamahotel.com
DEC 7–8 Holiday Choral Concerts by Candlelight Start your holidays with a favorite tradition and sing-along with the Marin Symphony Chamber Chorus. The program includes Christmas Cantata, Norwegian Lullaby, Russian sacred music and a selection of Christmas spirituals. Church of St. Raphael (San Rafael). 415.479.8100, marinsymphony.org
DEC 8 Children’s Holiday Concert and Party Members of the cast of Beach Blanket Babylon, Chhandam Youth Dance Company, the San Francisco Ballet School Trainee Program and San Francisco Boys Chorus perform with San Francisco Symphony, with all proceeds supporting the Deckthe Hall Day, a free holiday
MARIN SYMPHONY
ALASDAIR NEALE | MUSIC DIRECTOR
Holiday Pops Concert
Waltz of the Flowers from Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker
Tuesday, Dec. 17 th at 7:30 p.m.
concert for underserved San Francisco children. Davies Symphony Hall (San Francisco). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org
DEC 8 Left Coast String
Bands A concert showcasing the Left Coast Chamber Ensemble’s string players and featuring diverse styles, from a duo for violin and bass by Edgar Meyer to a septet by Kurt Rohde. 142 Throckmorton (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmorton theatre.com
DEC 12 Appleberry
Jam’s Guitar Pull: Pedal Steel Edition The Bay Area’s best pedal steel players get together for a unique jam session. The Sleeping Lady (Fairfax). 415.485.1182, sleepinglady fairfax.com
The Marin Symphony’s Holiday Pops Concert is the start of a new Marin tradition! Maestro Alasdair Neale conducts the Marin Symphony Orchestra performing holiday classics. Stephen McKersie, Music Director of the Marin Symphony Chorus and Debra Chambliss, Marin Symphony Children’s Choir Director—prepare the choral elements of this exciting concert. The program presents more than a dozen works including Waltz of the Flowers from Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker, White Christmas by Irving Berlin, You’re a Mean One, Mr. Grinch from How the Grinch Stole Christmas and more classics like Deck the Hall, O Christmas Tree, Jingle Bells and Joy to the World!
TICKETS: $10 – $70, reserved seating. CALL: 415.473.6800 or order online at marinsymphony.org
This concert takes place at the Marin Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium. White Christmas by Irving Berlin You’re a Mean One, Mr. Grinch & more...
Frank & Lois Noonan, Steve & Christina Fox, Gaspare’s Pizzeria, Left Bank Brasserie, Montecito Plaza, Marin Pacific Co.
Tom Johnston plays Glide Festival at War Memorial Opera House, S.F.
DEC 17–22 A Swell
Noel Bay Area cabaret star Craig Jessup performs selections by various composers, as well as classic holiday tunes and original songs. Aurora Theatre Company (Berkeley). 510.834.4042, auroratheatre.org
DEC 18 Michelle Schmitt Bay Area singer/songwriter
Michelle Schmitt performs for the fi fth annual concert to benefit Meals on Wheels of San Francisco. All of proceeds from ticket and CD sales go to Meals on Wheels to support homebound seniors. SFJazz Center (San Francisco). 866.920.5299, sfjazz.org
DEC 22 ’Tis the Season … Celebrating Traditions Singers
New Year. Community Center (Mill Valley). 415.389.5072, murphy productions.com
GALLERIES
MARIN
Art Abloom Studio and Gallery Classes for artists. 751 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.256.1112, artabloom.com
Art Works Downtown
A gift-shopping event with art auctions to benefit the San rancisco and Marin Food Banks, December 6–21. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119, artworks downtown.org
Bay Model Visitor Center Big Is Beautiful
A juried art exhibition of work by 37 Bay Area artists, through December 31. 2100 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.3870
Marin and seven youth and adult choral ensembles gather to celebrate holiday family traditions. Hear many seasonal favorites including Christmas carols, Hanukkah songs, winter standards and songs of peace. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.473.6400, marincenter.org
DEC 24 The Brian Setzer Orchestra:
Bubble Street Featuring genres of fantastic art, imaginary realism, neo-Victorian and steampunk. 565 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.339.0506
Falkirk Cultural Center Works by Marin’s Art Collective Group, December 13–March 8. 1408 Mission Ave, San Rafael. 415.485.3328, falkirkcultural center.org
Christmas Rocks A 10th anniversary show for all ages featuring Brian Setzer and Australian rockabilly trio Firebird. The War field (San Francisco). 415.345.0900, the war fieldtheatre.com
Fine Art Etc. Featuring a collection of sculptures and paintings by artists from Northern California and around the world. 686 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.1107, finearttc.com
DEC 31 Petty Theft
Join Tom Petty & The Heartbreakers tribute band Petty Theft for some rock and roll to help ring in the
Gallery Bergelli Group exhibition, through December. 483 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.945.9454, bergelli.com
Gallery Route One
Dignity and Spunk A collection of photographs by Marna Clarke, December 6–January 12. 11101 Hwy One, Point Reyes. 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org
Marin Society of Artists
Winter holidays and gifts show, through December 14. 30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Ross. 415.454.9561, marinsocietyof artists.org
Marine Mammal
Center The Ghost Below
Inspired by one unsuspecting whale’s deadly diet, this exhibition by Judith and Richard Lang explores the harmful effects of marine debri, through December 31. 2000 Bunker Road, Sausalito. 415.289.7325, marinemammal center.org
Mine Gallery Ongoing work. 1820 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Fairfax. 415.755.4472, gallerymine.com
Wish I could skip the shopping malls and traffic this season!’’
Ever since Terrestra opened in San Francisco, our loyal Marin County customers have been asking us to open a store on this side of the bridge. We were listening. We’ve found the perfect spot and filled it with thousands of fabulous gifts and everything for creative entertaining. As always, free gift-wrapping.
O’Hanlon Center for the Arts Luminous Worlds: Art of the Spirit, December 3–26. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org
Petri’s Fine Arts
Featuring contemporary works in various mediums. 690 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.2626, petrisfineart.com
Robert Allen Fine Art Mindfulness: Images from Within A group exhibition of abstract works on canvas and panel, December 5–January 31. 301 Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.2800, robertallenfineart.co
Robert Beck Gallery
Early California and contemporary plein air paintings. 222 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.456.7898, beckgallery.org
Robert Green Fine Arts Abstract expressionist paintings by Sam Francis, John Grillo, Paul Jenkins, Jim Bird and more. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgfineart.com
Shipping to anywhere. And our expert staff at your service.
Wish granted.
Terrestra | San Francisco | Mill Valley
MILLER AVENUE ■ 415 -384-8330 ■ TERRESTRA.COM
Lucca, Italy. And now Terrestra, Mill Valley.
You’ve admired them in fine leather shops and museum stores throughout Europe. Now the entire collection of Mywalit handbags and wallets is here at last. Introducing the new Mywalit Store at Terrestra, Mill Valley.
Cirque Dreams Holidaze at the Curran Theatre, S.F.
Room Art Gallery
Works by both Bay Area artists and major masters, housing the largest collection of Picasso, Chagall and others in Marin County. 86 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.380.7940, roomartgallery.com
Rustic Bakery Photoply
SF A selection of ink-jet images dry-mounted on European plywood, by Nike van der Molen. Marin County Mart, Larkspur. 415.461.9900, rusticbakery.com
Seager Gray Gallery
Boundless An exhibition of works by Kristen Garneau, through December 15. 23 Sunnyside Ave, Mill Valley. 415.384.8288, seagergray.com
Studio 333 Ongoing exhibition featuring more than 40 Bay Area artists’ work in diffeent mediums. 333A Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.8272, studio333.info
Studio 4 Art Work by local artists, classes and workshops with materials included. 1133 Grant Ave, Novato. 415.596.5546, studio4art.net
SAN FRANCISCO
ArtHaus An intimate presentation of diverse works in various styles and mediums by New York and Bay Area artists. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com
Caldwell Snyder
Paintings and sculptures by local artists. 341 Sutter St, 415.392.2299, caldwellsnyder.com
Electric Works Works by David Schubert. 1360 Mission St, 415.626.5496, sfelectricworks.com
George Krevsky Gallery
Restless Harmony Works by Helen Berggruen, through December 21.
• DEC 7–8 Antique Market Christmas Show Enjoy a classic old-fashioned shopping experience as you browse through rows of booths with antiques and collectibles. Vintage clothes, china, glass, silver and pottery make this a popular event. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.383.2252, goldengateshows.com
Gregory Lind Gallery
Contemporary works in various mediums. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com
Hackett-Mill Jules
Olitski Colorness: The Early Spray Paintings 1965 to 1969 Works by the abstract artist, through December 20. 201 Post St, 415.362.3377, hackettmill.com
John Berggruen Gallery Works in various mediums. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com
Rena Bransten Gallery
Water Work by Edward Burtynsky, through December 14. 77 Geary St, 415.982.3292, rena branstengallery.com
MUSEUMS
MARIN
Bolinas Museum
Bolinas Museum’s 30 Years of History The museum celebrates its 30th anniversary year with an exhibit that looks back at its development, through December 31 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org
Marin History Museum
An Afternoon in a Victorian Parlor A display of an old-fashioned sitting room in the historic Boyd Gate House (San Rafael). 415.454.8538, marinhistory.org
Marin Museum of the American Indian Explore Native American history, languages, art and traditions (Novato). 415.897.4064, marinindian.com
Marin Museum of Contemporary Art Movement and Music
Works by Kathleen Lack and Christine Stewart, through January 12 (Novato). 415.506.0137, marinmoca.org
BAY AREA
Asian Art Museum
Proximities 2: Knowing Me Knowing You Part two of a three-part series examining Asia as seen through family and community, through December 8 (SF). 415.581.3711, asianart.org
California Academy of Sciences Nightlife Enjoy music, creatures and cocktails for adults only and explore the exhibits and aquarium displays every Thursday night (SF). 415.379.8000, calacademy.org
Conservatory of Flowers Butter flies and Blooms An English garden with monarchs, swallow tails, painted ladies and more, through March 16 (SF). 415.831.2090, conser vatoryofflowers.org
Contemporary Jewish Museum Work in Progress: Considering Utopia New works by three artists encourage viewers to consider the concept of utopia both in a Jewish context and from a contemporary perspective, through January 20 (SF). 415.655.7800, thecjm.org
de Young The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond, 1950-1990 A decade-by-decade look at 150 pieces from the Bulgari archives, through February 17 (SF). 415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org
Exploratorium Ongoing interactive exhibits exploring science, art and human perception (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu
Legion of Honor Matisse from SFMOMA Works from four decades of the artist’s career, through September 7 (SF). 415.750.3600, legionofhonor.org
Museum of Craft and Design New West Coast Design 2 Works chosen for the signi ficant contribution they make to the world of design by expanding on the idea of function, materials, techniques or applications of new technology, through January 5 (SF). 415.773.0303, sfmcd.org
Oakland Museum of California Peter Stackpole: Bridging the Bay Black-and-white photographs depicting the building of the San Francisco–Oakland Bay Bridge and Golden Gate Bridge in the 1930s, through January 26 (Oakland). 510.318.8400, museumca.org
S an Francisco Botanical Garden California Native Plant Boom A collection of hundreds of wild flowers native to California and a 100-year-old grove of coast redwoods (SF). 415.661.1316, sf botanicalgarden.org
The Walt Disney Family Museum Water to Paper, Paint to Sky Works by Tyrus Wong, through February 3 (SF). 415.345.6800, waltdisney.org
Yerba Buena Center for the Arts Dissident Futures An investigation into possible
alternative futures brought on by active engagement with current political, economic or technological structures, through February 2 (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org
EVENTS
THRU DEC 22 Great
Dickens Christmas Fair
Celebrate the holidays Victorian-style in a slice of Charles Dickens’ London, brought to life by more than 750 authentically dressed actors. Explore winding lanes, shops, tearooms, pubs and a grand music hall. Cow Palace (Daly City). dickensfair.com
DEC 1 Grinch Day
Celebrate everyone’s favorite grumpy green curmudgeon with story
time, fun Grinch activities and treats. Kids can opt to participate in “25 Days of Grinchmas,” where they’re encouraged to “grow their heart three sizes” by doing one good deed each day. Barnes and Noble (Corte Madera). 415.927.9016, barnesandnoble.com
DEC 4 Glide Annual
Holiday Festival
Celebrate the 50th anniversary of cofounders Rev. Cecil Williams and Janice Mirikitani at Glide Memorial with all-stars like Maya Angelou, Valerie Simpson and Tom Johnston. War Memorial Opera House (San Francisco). 415.674.6117, glide.org
DEC 7 Santa Fest
Stop by in the morning for Santa Fest, a family party that includes holiday crafts, gingerbread house decorating and photos with Santa. Golden Gate Club (San Francisco). 415.561.5444
DEC 7 Winter Magic
Snow Day Decorate
cookies, make holiday crafts, enjoy breakfast with Santa and play in real snow. Tamalpais Valley Community Center (Mill Valley). 415.388.6393, tcsd.us
DEC 7 Warm Wishes
Help Warm Wishes assemble this year’s “StreetPacks,” which are each fi lled with new gloves, a scarf, hat, rain poncho, socks and a holiday card made by local children. The packs will
be distributed throughout the Bay Area. Unity in Marin (Novato). 415.472.0211, warmwishes.org
DEC 7 Union Street
Fantasy of Lights Shops and Victorian houses along Union Street kick off he holidays with thousands of twinkling white lights. Kids can meet Santa and the Snow Queen, as well as jugglers and live ponies disguised as reindeer, while adults enjoy live
Muir Beach Quilter’s Holiday Arts Fair, Muir Beach
entertainment. Union Street (San Francisco). sresproductions.com
DEC 7 Tiburon Holiday Festival Head to downtown Tiburon for a holiday party with food, drink, Bay Bells Bell Choir, gingerbread house decorating, The Merrie Olde Christmas Carolers, a tree lighting ceremony and a visit from Santa. Downtown (Tiburon). tiburon chamber.org
DEC 7–8 ICB Artists’ Winter Open Studios
More than 80 visual artists open their studios to the public in the 45th installment of this annual event. Get a chance to meet the artists in the place where they work — a historic, World War II–era industrial building. Industrial Center Building (Sausalito). 415.331.2222, icbartists.com
DEC 7–8 Muir Beach
Quilter’s Holiday Arts Fair Head to Muir Beach to browse through artwork, crafts, ceramics, textiles, jewelry and more from more than 30 local artists. Community Center (Muir Beach). muirbeach.com
DEC 8 Santa at Nick’s Cove Watch as Santa arrives at Nick’s Cove by boat, then join him for hot cider, treats and photos. Every guest who brings a donation of canned food for the Marin Food Bank will receive 15 percent off any food or beverage purchase at Nick's Cove throughout the day. Nick’s Cove (Marshall). 415.663.1033, nickscove.com
DEC 14 Tour de Noel Holiday House Tour
This traditional Marin County holiday event features a shuttle van tour of homes decorated for the holidays. St.
John's Episcopal Church (Ross). 415.456.1102, stjohnross.org
DEC 31 New Year’s Eve at Cinnabar A romantic cabaret celebrating the music of Jacques Brel. Enjoy desserts and fi ne wine before the show, with party favors and champagne at midnight. Cinnabar (Petaluma). 707.763.8920, cinnabar theater.com
DEC 31 New Year’s Eve Masquerade Ball Ring in the New Year with the San Francisco Symphony. Enjoy entertainment from The Martini Brothers and the San Francisco Symphony, as well as dancing, sparkling wine and desserts. Davies Symphony Hall (San Francisco). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org
NATURE WALKS & TALKS
ONGOING Foodie Adventures Experience the Mission District, North Beach or Chinatown on a culinary walking tour. Various locations (SF). 888.498.2008, foodie adventures.com
ONGOING Mark Twain
Walking Tour of Napa and Sonoma Local actor George Webber morphs into Mark Twain as he brings alive the pasts of the historic towns. 707.694.5097, georgewebber.com
ONGOING Sausalito Walking Tours Take a one-hour walk through Old Town and learn about its history. Vina del Mar Plaza (Sausalito). 415.331.3791, travels withteri.com
ONGOING The San Francisco Gourmet Chocolate Tour A threehour walking tour from the San Francisco
• DEC 7 The House Jacks The a cappella rock band shows off its vocal prowess in perfect harmony. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000, marinjcc.org
DEC 4 A Conversation with Michael Kransy KQED's award-winning Forum host Michael Krasny discusses the way media conveys information and news today. Outdoor Art Club (Mill Valley). 415.597.6700, commonwealthclub.org
DEC 6 Rick Steves' Iran In his lecture, travel writer and public television host Rick Steves takes us on a journey of discovery to better understand this perplexing nation whose government so exasperates America, and to better understand the 70 million people who call Iran home. Book Passage (Corte Madera). 415.927.0960, bookpassage.com
waterfront to Union Square with seven stops and generous tastings at each. Justin Herman Plaza (SF). gourmetwalks.com
DEC 1 John Agee The author presents his new book Little Santa and shows us what the jolly fellow was like as a kid, just in time for the holidays. Diesel (Larkspur). 415.785.8177, diesel bookstore.com
DEC 3 Amy Tan in Conversation with Roy Eisenhardt Fiction writer Amy Tan discusses her novels, creative life and more with longtime interviewer Roy Eisenhardt. Nourse Theater (San Francisco). 415.563.2463, cityarts.net
DEC 7 Exploring Baltimore Canyon Take a stroll through Baltimore Canyon and look for wildlife in various habitats, including a redwood forest and chaparral. Meet at the Crown Road Trailhead. Crown Road (Kent field). 415.456.7283, wildcarebayarea.org
DEC 21 Alice Waters: The Art of Simple Food II Alice Waters, the iconic food luminary, presents 200 new recipes that reflect her passion for the many delicious varieties of vegetables, fruits and herbs that you can cultivate in your own kitchen garden or fi nd at your local farmers’ market. Book Passage (San Francisco). 415.927.0960, bookpassage.com
inspired choices for amazing gift giving
Find the right gift for your special someone. We’ve uncovered the best and latest for everyone in your life from moms and dads, to pets, kids and co-workers. Make this holiday season your best.
Union Street Goldsmith The Client + The Design Team + The Craftsman. It all happens here. This collaboration facilitates the creative atmosphere. The result is evident in our work. 415.776.8048, San Francisco, unionstreetgoldsmith.com
Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe.
One gift certificate fits all! The lucky giftee can use it for a getaway to this four-diamond lakefront resort, a treatment at its Stillwater Spa, awardwinning dining at the shoreline Lone Eagle Grille and more. Incline Village, 775.832.1234, laketahoe.hyatt.com
Oeno Vaults offer temperature controlled pick ups from wineries in Napa and Sonoma Counties, climate controlled cellaring, online inventory management, and shipping to locations across the country. Find out how you can get 6 months FREE when you sign up for 1 year! 707.595.3612, Santa Rosa, oenovaults.com
Give the Gift of Health! Help someone “jumpstart” 2014 with Fast & Healthy Weight Loss that Lasts. JumpstartMD Gift Certificates make thoughtful stocking stuffers. New Patient discounts available. 9 Bay Area locations, 1 855 JUMPSTART, jumpstartmd.com
Rustic Bakery specializes in handmade baked goods for the holiday season. We offer beautiful gift baskets filled with organic treats, nostalgic decorated sugar cookies, hand cut glazed spiced gingerbread tiles and delicious desserts for your holiday table. Larkspur 415.925.1556, Novato 415.878.4952, MCM 415.461.9900, rusticbakery.com
Johann Paul Jewelers. Pascal Lacroix is an award winning designer. He is a Master in the creation of innovative gold and diamond bracelets. They are truly pieces of art. 415.461.1866, Greenbrae, johannpauljeweler.com
Lang Antiques. One-of-a-kind Antique and Estate Heirloom Jewels are always the right gift. In our store, or online, expert advice is part of the Lang shopping experience. 415.982.2213, San Francisco, langantiques.com
Tutu School.
Visions of Sugar Plum (Fairies) dancing through your head? Look no further than Tutu School in the Marin Country Mart, and give the gift of twirling to an aspiring little dancer in your life. Andrew Weeks Photography. 415.419.5610, tutuschool.com
Jewelry by the Bay. Marin’s mecca for designer and fashion jewelry. Whimsical gifts and adorned handbags for your holiday needs. Multi-Strand Bracelet $45. Available in multiple colors. Sausalito, 415.332.0660, jewelrybythebay.com
The Village at Squaw Valley for shopping, dining, activities and lodging. Discover awardwinning restaurants, a variety of shops and events that entertain in every season. Book your stay today. 866.447.7207, Squaw Valley, Squaw.com
Although UKO is known for stylish clothing, more people are coming back for unique gift items such as cashmere scarves, bracelets, Christmas ornaments and much more. Leather wallet $68, fingerless gloves $58, card case $18, flower candle $18/pair. Corte Madera, San Francisco, 415.927.1370, ukosf.com
Kathleen Dughi Jeweler provides custom made, hand fabricated and one of a kind, sophisticated works of art. Above are the KDJ signature stackable bands: colored sapphire, ruby, and diamond in 22kt yellow gold. 415.383.0462, Mill Valley, kathleendughi.com
M Clothing offers you many great gift items this season, including Alessandra Gallo’s handmade jewelry collection. This Mill Valley-based designer creates timeless pieces that every girl on your shopping list will love! Find us on Facebook and Instagram. Corte Madera, 415.924.8891, martymclothing.com
Speak To Me. Give the special women in your life the gift of inspiration, knowledge and fun! Speak To Me - amazing speakers, food and wine and the opportunity to relax and connect. It’s a night out every woman needs and deserves!! speaktomeevents.com
Stephan-Hill Jewelry Designers. Give the iconic gift of a Mt. Tam pendant to those who love Mount Tamalpais as much as we do. “Made in Marin” and available in yellow gold with diamonds or Sterling with white sapphires. 415.459.5808, San Rafael, stephanhill.com
San Francisco retailer now in Mill Valley Terrestra. The Miami clutch ($210) from Mywalit of Lucca, Italy is among hundreds of colorful wallets and handbags at the new Mywalit Store at Terrestra. 415.384.8330, Mill Valley, terrestra.com
Give the perfect gift for the golfer in your life! StoneTree members receive great benefits including lower green fees, 20% off food and apparel, and a complimentary round with each new membership! 415.209.6090, Novato, stonetreegolf.com
Dine
AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS AND GOOD FOOD IN THE BAY AREA EDITED BY MIMI TOWLE
• SMALL SHED FLATBREADS California Slow food chef Ged Robertson uses only local, mostly organic ingredients. The restaurant offers a selection of wine (glass or bottle) to pair with local favorites like the Mt. Tamal-pie, a delicious fresh salad served atop a cheesy flatbread. If you’re in the mood to dine at home, there’s also take-andmake options. 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, smallshed.com
CORTE MADERA
BENISSIMO Italian “Benissimo” means “really really good” in Italian. Besides the daily 4 to 6:30 p.m. happy hour, when drinks are $3 to $5 and small plates $5 to $7, specials include all-day happy hour on Monday, free corkage on Tuesday, martini night on Wednesday, and live jazz on Thursday. 18 Tamalpais Dr, 415.927.2316, benissimos.com
BRICK & BOTTLE
California Sourcing local and artisanal ingredients, executive chef Scott Howard brings simple California cuisine to Corte Madera’s Brick & Bottle. The restaurant features a large bar area, an outdoor patio and family-friendly dining. 55 Tamal Vista Blvd, 415.924.3366, brickandbottle.com
IL FORNAIO Italian Sausalito’s Larry Mindel hit a home run with this upscale Italian restaurant franchise. Besides the awardwinning breads, pizzas and pastas, the menu offers a variety of salads and noncarb entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com
MARIN JOE’S Italian
Authentic Italian dishes have been served here for over 50 years. Pick from soup, salad, seafood, mesquite-grilled or sautéed meats and more than 10 pasta options guaranteed to satisfy. 1585 Casa Buena Dr, 415.924.2081, marinjoesrestaurant.com
THE COUNTER California/American The folks at the Counter have taken the “have it your way” motto to a wholenew level. Mostly known for all-natural Angus beef, turkey, chicken or veggie burgers, the restaurant also offers options like a bowl (all the ingredients without the bun) or salads. 201 Corte Madera Town Center 415.924.7000, thecounterburger.com
FAIRFAX
STEAKHOUSE GRILL & BAR American
Celebrating its 90 year anniversary, this steakhouse at Deer Park Villa is more than just a restaurant serving signature Angus steaks and prime rib. It is a gathering place with daily happy hour, live entertainment and a large heated deck. 367 Bolinas Rd, 415.456.8084, deer parksteakhousegrill.com
Eggplant Pancetta
happy holidays
GREENBRAE
BISTRO VIS À VIS
California This Bon Air Shopping Center eatery features the cooking of Soo Young Kim, who previously acted as owner, chef and sommelier at Petaluma’s Sooze Wine Bar. The neighborhood spot boasts outdoor seating for casually fine dining. 282 Bon Air Ctr, 415.925.4370, bistrovisavis.com
WIPEOUT BAR & GRILL
American The familyfriendly hot spot has surfboards hanging from the ceiling, funin-the-sun music, a full bar and large televisions displaying surfers riding waves. 302 Bon Air Ctr, 415.461.7400, wipeoutbarandgrill.com
KENTFIELD
AMBROSIA Italian
Taking over the space formerly occupied by Paci fic Café, Mark Leslie is bringing his pizza, pasta and passion for good wines by the glass to Kent field. 800 College Ave, 415.454.9292
LARKSPUR
BELCAMPO MEAT CO.
American This eatery serves classic grilled items like the roasted tri-tip sandwich and classic sloppy joe. Marin Country Mart, 2405 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.448.5810, belcampomeatco.com
EL HUARACHE LOCO
Mexican Chef Veronica Salazar’s menu has already gained quite a following. Marin Country Mart, 1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.925.1403, huaracheloco.com
• CIBO Cafe Marinites love to stop here for outdoor coffee. Husband-and-wife team Alfredo and Tera Ancona offer a menu of tarts, croissants, cookies, paninis and soups. Every dish is made from scratch with local and seasonal products. Located in the historic brick building at 1201 Bridgeway. 415.331.2426, cibosausalito.com
for tasty spirits and eye candy. 44 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com
EL PASEO HOUSE OF CHOPS American The menu speaks to the restaurant’s elegance, with offerings like roasted bone marrow, hamachi crudo, smoked trout salad and the El Paseo short rib. 17 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0741, elpaseomillvalley.com
FRANTOIO RISTORANTE
ITALIANO Italian
EMPORIO RULLI Italian
The Larkspur location (there are three others) is a favored spot for lunch as well as coffee and a sweet. 464 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7478, rulli.com
FABRIZIO RISTORANTE
Italian Traditional Italian dishes with an extensive wine list from regions all over Italy; outdoor seating makes the experience even more special. 455 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.3332, fabrizioristorante.com
FARM HOUSE LOCAL
California With a seasonal menu that follows what is fresh and local, Chef David Monson creates dishes such as fluff omelets stuffed with local meats, cheeses and vegetables and made with Glaum eggs from the South Bay. 25 Ward Street, 415.891.8577, farmhouselocal.com
FARMSHOP California
Originally based in LA, Farmshop Marin has customers clamoring for cocktails and a delicious assortment of California-centric cuisine. Marin Country Mart, 2233 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.755.6700, farm shopla.com
MARIN BREWING CO
American Grab a cold beer made right on site and pair it with fish n’ chips — fresh cod dipped in Mt. Tam pale ale batter, served with steak fries and homemade tartar sauce. Marin Country Mart, 1809 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com
RUSTIC BAKERY
California Organic mouthwatering pastries, breads and sandwiches and Meyer lemon mascarpone danishes and a
bacon, avocado and heirloom tomato sandwich with mesclun. Two locations: Marin Country Mart, 415.461.9900; 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556, rusticbakery.com
MILL VALLEY
BOO KOO Asian Menu items include chicken pho, vegan summer rolls, pad thai and five-spice pork satay, all made with organic, locally sourced veggies and proteins. 25 Miller Ave, 415.888.8303, eatbookoo.com
BUNGALOW 44
American Much like sister restaurant Buckeye Roadhouse, Bungalow 44 offers a mean dose of homey carbo- and lipid-laden dishes, such as the burger, fried chicken and truffle fries, as wel as a few lighter items. The bar is a neighborhood favorite, known
Owned by Christine Zecca and chef Duilio Valenti, both from Milano; the kitchen uses local and organic ingredients. For special occasions and private parties, reserve the olive-press room. The popular weekday happy hour starts at 4:30 p.m. 152 Shoreline Hwy, 415.289.5777, frantoio.com
HARMONY Chinese
Dishes here are an infusion of many flavors. The barbecue pork bun is filled with house made roasted meat in a savory sauce, and fresh mussels are accented with red chili and Thai basil. Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmonyrestaurant group.com
LA GINESTRA Italian
While this old-school Italian eatery is known for traditional pastas, veal dishes, pizzas and dry martinis, the familiar wait staff is also part of the attraction. 127 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0224, laginestramv.com
NOURISH GRILL American Open for brunch, lunch and dinner, Nourish
Frittata with Pea Pesto Crostini
offers a variety of clas sic seafood, like fish ’n’ chips, as well as American grill fare like the Niman Ranch black ’n’ bleu burger. 475 E Strawberry Dr, 415.381.4400, nourish.harbor-point.com
PEARL’S PHAT
BURGERS American
Dubbed a silver-spoon alternative to a greasy spoon diner by The New York Times, Pearl’s has a loyal following for the big juicy all-natural patties (vegetarian, turkey, beef, buffalo or grilled chicken) served up with tasty sides such as garlic or sweet potato fries, shakes and seasonal smoothies. 8 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.381.6010, pearlsdeluxe.com
PIATTI RISTORANTE
AND BAR Italian The staff prides itself on capturing the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria. Try for a table at the window for a truly exceptional view right on the water. Take a peek at the impressive collection of Italian wines to accompany your rustic seasonal Italian meal. 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com
PIZZA ANTICA Italian
Although a recent Yelp reviewer praised it for having “by far the best thin-crust pizzas in Marin,” this Strawberry Shopping Center spot also offers antipasti and hearty salads. Wine is served by the glass, half carafe or bottle. 800 Redwood Hwy, 415.383.0600, pizzaantica.com
THE PLANT CAFE
California The Plant offers up affordable delicious and healthy food made from local, organic ingredients. Strawberry Village Shopping Center, 415.388.8658, theplantcafe.com
PRABH INDIAN
KITCHEN Indian Owned and operated by the Singh family, this restaurant is dedicated to serving healthy, organic and sustainable food with gluten-free and vegan options. 24 Sunnyside Ave, 415.384.8241, prabh indiankitchen.com
ROBATA GRILL AND SUSHI Japanese Robata translates as “by the fireside”; fittingly, foo here can be cooked on an open fire and served in appetizer-size portions to pass around the table. 591 Redwood Hwy, 415.381.8400, robatagrill.com
SHORELINE COFFEE
SHOP American Tucked away in a parking lot at Tam Junction, this Mexican coffee shop is (to quote one Yelper) a “funky diner” with a small-town feel. 221 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.9085
SOL FOOD Puerto Rican
This Marin favorite has opened doors in Mill Valley, where they continue to serve up everyone’s favorite Puerto Rican cuisine. The line can get long, but the food is well worth it. 401 Miller Ave, 415.380.1986, solfoodrestaurant.com
THEP LELA Thai This jewel is tucked away in the back of Strawberry Village. Diners come for the tasty kee mao
noodles, pad thai, fresh rolls and extensive bar menu. It’s also a great place for lunch. 615 Strawberry Village, 415.383.3444, theplela.com
MarinOptometry
VASCO Italian Whether you’re at a table, the bar or the back counter, you can expect an intimate and tasty dining experience at this one-room trattoria. 106 Throckmorton Ave, 415.381.3343, vascomillvalley.com
NOVATO
HILLTOP 1892 California
Situated on a historic estate in Novato with sweeping views, Hilltop 1892 offers traditional favorites with a California flair. Open lunch through dinner, as well as Sunday brunch. 850 Lamont Ave, 415.893.1892, hilltop1892.com
RICKEY’S RESTAURANT & BAR
American Besides a full-service restaurant and bar (with banquet/ meeting rooms,) this comfort food classic offers poolside din ing and a garden patio overlooking green lawns. 250 Entrada Drive, 415.883.9477, rickeysrestaurant.com
RUSTIC BAKERY
California Organic mouthwatering pastries, breads and sandwiches are on the menu here, including Meyer lemon mascarpone danishes and a bacon, avocado and heirloom tomato sandwich with mesclun. 1407 Grant Avenue, 415.878.4952, rusticbakery.com
SAN ANSELMO
COMFORTS CAFE
American This cozy spot features local ingredients and serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. Be sure to try the Philly cheesesteak and Chinese chicken salad, both classics. 335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com
L’APPART RESTO
French Owners Bruno Denis and Olivier Souvestre, of Le Garage, offer a menu most Francophiles would be proud of, complete with items like smoked herring, bone marrow and cassoulet de legumes. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.256.9884, lappartresto.com
MH BREAD & BUTTER
California This onestop-shop offers everything from coffee and pastries to artisan bread and braised meats. High quality ingredients and a comfortable atmosphere make MH worth checking out. 101 San Anselmo Ave, 415.755.4575, mhbreadandbutter.com
SAN RAFAEL
AMICI’S EAST COAST
PIZZERIA
California
The array of pizzas includes gluten-free crust options and the new Siciliano, an enticing mix of mozzarella, slowroasted garlic, sausage, broccoli and crushed red pepper flakes, sans tomato sauce. 1242 Fourth St, 415.455.9777, amicis.com
IL DAVIDE Italian A large selection of both Italian and California wines by the glass along with the dolci
menu’s tiramisu have kept locals coming back for years. 901 A St, 415.454.8080, ildavide.net
ODALISQUE CAFÉ
Mediterranean This casual art cafe was inspired by “La Grande Odalisque,” an oil painting of a slave done in 1814 by Jean-AugusteDominque Ingres. 1335 Fourth St, 415.460.1335, odalisquecafe.com
SAN RAFAEL JOE’S
Italian Guido and Theresa Farina run this Marin institution, which has been famous for sophisticated yet casual Italian fare since 1947. Great for large parties, the dining room holds 240 931 Fourth St, 415.456.2425, srjoes.com
SOL FOOD Puerto Rican With south-ofthe-border treats like yellow rice, beans and plantains and authentic Puerto Rican specialties,
this one-room eatery on Fourth Street just off Highway 101 can be hard to get into, but it’s worth the wait. No alcohol served. 903 Lincoln Ave, 415.451.4765, solfoodrestaurant.com
VIN ANTICO American
This newly re-opened restaurant offers sea sonal market inspired cuisine like stone oven baked flat breads, hand made pasta, organic salads. 881 4th St, 415.721.0600, vinantico.com
SAUSALITO
ANGELINO RESTAURANT Italian Father-and-son chefs Pasquale and Alfredo Ancona offer handmade pastas and seasonal antipasti. 621 Bridgeway, 415.331.5225, angelinorestaurant.com
Chopped Salad at Brick & Bottle in Corte Madera
Now Open
With 35 years in Marin County we’ve relocated to Strawberry Village Shopping Center
BARREL HOUSE
TAVERN California
Stop by Barrel House for local food accompanied by fantastic bay and city views. The setting is the perfect place to enjoy one of the restaurant’s signature, barrel aged cocktails. 660 Bridgeway, 415.729.9593, barrelhousetavern.com
FAST FOOD FRANCAIS
French This “frenchified American comfort food” spot opened in February after taking over Plate Shop’s old location. Owned and operated by the owners of Le Garage and L’Appart Resto, F3 serves brunch, lunch and dinner, with specialties such as the le bleu burger and a spinach and oyster mushroom omelette. 39 Caledonia St, 415.887.9047, eatf3.com
FENG NIAN Chinese
Busy at lunch and dinner, this spacious hangout has been a popular spot for wonton soup, pot stickers and daily specials for nearly two decades. For an indulgent treat order the Szechwan crispy calamari or honey-glazed walnut prawn. Free delivery. 2650 Bridgeway, 415.331.5300, fengnian.com
KITTI’S PLACE Thai/ California Known for the tasty Chinese chicken salad and spring rolls. Owner Kitti Suthipipiat was the cook at Comforts in San Anselmo for many years. Try weekly specials like the Thai Toast: crispy sliced baguette topped with shrimp and chicken. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.331.0390, kittisplace.com
Cheesecake at Vin Antico in San Rafael
LA HACIENDA BAR & GRILL Mexican Get your Mexican food fix any time of day: This festive 23-table new location is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Owner Jose Sahagun recently decided to set up in Sausalito after years in the business (he also owns La Hacienda Taqueria in San Rafael). Check out the $7.99 lunch special, complete with a soft drink. 2633 Bridgeway, 415.332.1677
LE GARAGE French
Escape the touristy Sausalito spots and grab brunch right on the water. The atmosphere is animated with light French music (think Amélie). The Kobe Burger, though not as Parisian as the other menu items, is to die for, and the much-adored croque-monsieur is under $10. 85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625, legaragebistro sausalito.com
MURRAY CIRCLE
American Enjoy the sun on the deck of this Cavallo Point restaurant. Locals say they come back for the fresh seasonal specials like wild sturgeon and Wolfe Ranch quail. 601 Murray Circle, 415.339.4750, cavallopoint.com
NAPA VALLEY BURGER COMPANY American
Serving local, all-natural and organic meats, produce and wines, this burger joint offers classic burgers (glutenfree buns available), fries, salads, tacos and root beer floats. With outdoor and indoor tables, the space can accommodate up to 100 people. 670 Bridgeway, 415.332.1454, napavalleyburger company.com
PIZZERIA ROSSETTI
Italian Traditional Italian fare made with locally sourced organic ingredients, including organic San Marzano tomatoes and Giusto flour. With a small offering of appetizers and salads, Pizzeria Rossetti has a large pizza menu with options like the traditional Margherita and the burrata pizza. 45 Caledonia St, 415.887.9526, pizzeriarossetti.com
POGGIO Italian A classic Italian trattoria with comfortable neighborhood charm and destination-caliber cuisine. Executive chef Ben Balesteri cooks up delicious Northern Italian cuisine using fresh and local ingredients, including produce from the nearby Poggio chef garden. 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com
SAYLOR’S RESTAURANT AND BAR California/Mexican Marin’s first tequila bar offers over 100 tequila options. Nightly meal specials include chicken potpie, roasted salmon, baby back ribs and traditional meat loaf. Happy hour from 4 to 7 p.m. M-F. 2009 Bridgeway, 415.332.1512, saylorsrestaurantand bar.com
SCOMA’S Seafood
Whether it’s for the view of San Francisco or the local history, visitors flock to this iconic spot. The fresh seafood and meat dishes are as appetizing as the Italian pastas. 588 Bridgeway, 415.332.9551, scomassausalito.com
Out & About / DINE
SEAFOOD PEDDLER
Seafood A great place to seek out fresh seafood in a warm and inviting environment. Varieties of East and West Coast fish are flow in daily. 303 Johnson St, 415.332.1492, seafoodpeddler.com
SEAHORSE Italian
The spacious dining area, stage and dance floor make Seahorse perfect for both small and large celebrations. Enjoy a modern twist on classic Tuscan coastal cuisine while shaking your booty to the nightly live music and entertainment. 305 Harbor Dr, 415.331.2899, sausalitoseahorse.com
SPINNAKER Seafood
Chef Phil Collins excels at preparing seafood, and it shows in the beautiful plate presentations. Set right on the water, this romantic spot is great for an evening occasion. 100 Spinnaker Dr, 415.332.1500, thespinnaker.com
SUSHI RAN Japanese
Fresh, innovative small plates are just big enough to share, the traditional sushi is melt-in-your-mouth good, and the wine, cocktail and sake lists keep even the pickiest barfly satisfied. Th prices don’t deter the herd of sushi enthusiasts who line up nightly to partake. Reservations are required in the main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com
SWEET GINGER
Japanese Owners and chefs Edna and Wayne Ching know their way around good sushi. Try fresh sashimi, the classic dragon roll, 49ers Roll or Rock ’N
Roll, or be adventurous and have Wayne whip you up something off the menu. Good sake and a comfortable setting round out the reasonably priced meal. 400 Caledonia St, 415.332.1683, sweet gingersausalito.com
TASTE OF ROME Italian
This local landmark has evolved from a cafe into a full-service restaurant offering pasta, pizza, sandwiches and salad in an authentic Italian atmosphere. Find the green, white and red awning and you’re there. 1000 Bridgeway, 415.332.7660, taste-of-rome.com
THE TRIDENT Seafood
Originally a turn-ofthe-century building constructed in 1898 for the San Francisco Yacht Club, this waterfront restaurant reopened in October after a remodel. Executive chef James Montejano, known for supporting local farmers, fisher men and organic food producers, prepares dishes like Hawaiian mahi mahi fish tacos and grilled swordfish. 558 Bridgeway, 415.331.3232, thetridentsausalito.com
WELLINGTON’S
California British transport Jeremy John and his wife, Jill, have created an expansive (2,400-square-foot) wine bar with a homey feel, board games, views of the bay and a worldly cellar featuring affordable bottles and special reserves. The menu offers wines by the glass for $5 to $20 and tasting flights of any three wines for $12. 300 Turney St, 415.331.9463, wellingtonswine.com
TIBURON
CAPRICE California
Book the private party room for large groups or just relax in what one Yelp reviewer called “the perfect romantic dinner spot.” Midweek, take advantage of the restaurant’s wellpriced three-course dinners for less than $25. 2000 Paradise Dr, 415.435.3400, thecaprice.com
DON ANTONIO
TRATTORIA Italian
Located in Tiburon’s historic Ark Row, this trattoria offers authen tic Italian cuisine in a quaint setting. 114 Main St, 415.435.0400, donantoniotrattoria.com
GUAYMAS Mexican Situated right next to the Tiburon ferry terminal on the waterfront. The touch-it-you’reso-close city views and outdoor seating make it a great place to bring visitors. 5 Main St, 415.435.6300, guaymasrestaurant.com
MILANO Italian Located in the Cove Shopping Center, this familyowned neighborhood spot is known for its pasta and friendly service. A good place to take the kids — or catering option for your next birthday party. 1 Blackfield Dr, 415.388.9100, tiburonmilano.com
Bungalow Braised Short Ribs at Bungalow 44 in Mill Valley
VIPMarin
CHOOSE LOCAL FIRST
Marin Magazine’s VIP Marin — CHOOSE LOCAL FIRST
The VIP Marin program is all about being in the know. When you opt in to this program, you’ll receive important communications from Marin Magazine regarding special events and timely editorial content.
Visit marinmagazine.com/VIPmarin to learn more about the participating businesses on these pages. Opt in by texting MARIN to 90947
NEW MORNING CAFE
American Sit outside or indoors at this casual cafe. On a sunny morning, tables will be filled with locals enjoying the sun and extensive breakfast menu; lunch served as well. 1696 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.4315
SALT & PEPPER
For more information on becoming a VIP Marin partner please contact Matt Clifford, mclifford@marinmagazine.com or 415.370.9464.
American This sunfilled, hardwood-floore one-room restaurant with blue-checkered tablecloths is a local favorite. Popular items on chef Abraham Monterroso’s menu include scallops, rib-eye steak, a beef burger and traditional crab cakes with jalapeño dipping sauce. 38 Main Street, 415.435.3594
SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE
American Everyone knows Sam’s deck is the prime spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole,
but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. Enjoy transfat-free calamari, fresh fish, seasonal salads and pastas. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com
SERVINO RISTORANTE Italian Executive Chef Massimo Covello comes to the kitchen via Frantoio and Piazza D’Angelo; here, he cooks up an array of rustic Italian dishes, including house-made pastas, wood oven pizzas and seasonal specialties. A member of Marin Organic and one of Marin’s first eateries to become certified as a green business, Servino uses fresh, local and organic ingredients whenever possible. Check the website for the live music schedule. 9 Main St, 415.435.2676, servino.com
Pan-roasted Cod at Barrel House in Sausalito
TIBURON TAVERN
California The atmosphere here is truly enchanting, with two outdoor patios, two indoor fireplaces and candlelit tables at dinner. No item is more than $20, including the steak, with entrées falling in the $14 to $18 range. Happy hour is 4 to 6:30 p.m. M–F. 1651 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.5996, tiburontavern.com
WEST MARIN
DRAKES BEACH CAFE
American If you’re OK with the long drive, you can’t beat the view and the fresh, local ingredients used to make the burgers, salads and soups at this casual spot (Inverness). Walk on the beach after lunch. 1 Drakes Beach Rd, 415.669.1297, drakescafe.com
NICK’S COVE American
Large windows open the 130-seat eatery to the picturesque Tomales Bay and Hog Island. (Marshall). 23240 Hwy 1, 415.663.1033, nickscove.com
OSTERIA STELLINA
California Whether it’s to cap off a day of hiking or celebrate a romantic anniversary, Osteria Stellina suits any occasion. Don’t leave without indulging in the standout lemon ice cream sandwich (Point Reyes). 11285 Hwy 1, 415.663.9988, osteriastellina.com
PINE CONE DINER
American Just off the main road, Joannie Kwit has re-created the ultimate neighborhood diner. Vintage china and homemade curtains complement the eclectic but homey menu featuring local fare. (Point
American Known for live music and an extensive menu featuring everything from Dungeness crab burgers to walnut-crusted goat cheese, 1 Old Rancheria (Nicasio) Rd, 415.662.2219, ranchonicasio.com
SAND DOLLAR
American Originally built from three barges in Tiburon in 1921, the Sand Dollar Restaurant was floated to Stinson that same year. (Stinson). 3458 Shoreline Hwy, 415.868.0434, stinson beachrestaurant.com
THE SIR & STAR AT THE OLEMA California
The historic inn has reopened as a roadhouse-style restaurant featuring rustic decor and a delicious yet affordable menu. Try the housemade bread and honey butter, the kale Caesar and the stuffed quail, or take the plunge and sample the entire menu — the majority of items are $20 or less. 10000 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, 415.663.1034, sirandstar.com
SURFERS GRILL
American The view doesn’t get better than this — nor does the surf salad. Built on Stinson Beach, this lunch spot offers up fresh organic salads alongside corn dogs, burgers and fries. Stinson Beach Park, Hwy 1, 415.868.1777, surfersgrill.com
For more local restaurant listings, visit us online at marinmagazine. com/dine
On the Scene
SNAPSHOTS FROM SPECIAL EVENTS IN MARIN AND SAN FRANCISCO EDITED BY DANIEL JEWETT
• MILL VALLEY FALL ARTS FESTIVAL More than 140 fine artists from across the country had their work showcased in the Old Mill Park redwood grove September 21–22.
• RH MUSIC Music lovers took in the latest tunes from up-and-coming artists at the first-ever Restoration Hardware Music event at the Greek Theatre in Berkeley September 20.
• SPEAK TO ME The speaker series for women kicked off its 2013–2014 season October 15 at the Mill Valley Community Center with inspiring tales of Bay Area entrepreneurs featuring Danae Ringelmann, Alison Pincus and Jory Des Jardins.
Trez Bennett, Erma Murphy and Steve Bajor
Alison Pincus and Jenny Terry
John Hamm, Geoff Callan, Mark Harmon and Keith Belling
Susan Dunlevy, Gary Friedman and Tatiana Sorokko
• MIDNIGHT IN PARIS Art Works Downtown celebrated it 17th anniversary October 19 with a wild party, six live bands, gourmet food and wine and art at its Fourth Street location. Proceeds benefited the nonprofit art center and its programs.
Jon Nakamatsu, Mary Jane Burke and Alasdair Neale
• MARIN SYMPHONY 61ST SEASON OPENER — 007 GALA Marin Symphony kicked off its 61st season October 26 with an elegant James Bond–themed affair that included dinner, dancing, a raffle and a special guest appearance by pianist Jon Nakamatsu.
• WINTERFEST HOST COMMITTEE Guests enjoyed a cocktail reception October 16 on board James Gabbert’s yacht as they planned for the Winterfest gala to be held in Sausalito December 13–15.
• SPIRIT OF MARIN Local business leaders were honored for their contributions to the community at the 20th annual awards luncheon held at the St. Vincent’s School for Boys in San Rafael on September 26.
Elisabeth Setten and Marc and Christine Rossano
Russ Colombo, Robert Heller, Jim Wood and Dietrich Stroeh
Deals on Meals
Enjoy local restaurants and save 30 percent on meals. Check out the participating restaurants in our “Deals on Meals” section and experience big savings. Spend only $35 for a dining certificate worth $50. Simply go to marinmagazine.com/dineout to purchase a dining certificate from a restaurant in this section and we will mail it to you. Try a new restaurant or purchase a certificate for an old favorite. A perfect gift for any occasion. Limited supply each month.
Dine local — save big time!
Corte Madera, CA brickandbottle.com
Consistently rated “Best of Marin,” Comforts offers fine city and homestyle food. The holidays are upon us, and we’ve created a special holiday menu, full of classic and traditional dishes, as well as some new favorites. Contact our catering department for more information. Happy Holidays!
Specialties include mesquite-grilled steaks and fish , house-made pastas, fresh salads and soups, a wide variety of desserts, and fresh baked bread along with
Corte Madera Town Ctr
Happy Holidays. From private parties to catered events, Chef Scott creates seasonal dishes with local ingredients. Enjoy signature dishes like orzo mac n’ cheese with smoked gouda and local favorites like spicy tuna, braised short ribs, and beet salad. Join us for a special Christmas Eve dinner!
The historic Cliff House offers awesome views from every angle and one of nature’s best shows every day. Dine in the casual Bistro Restaurant or the elegant Sutro’s at the Cliff House. Sunday Brunch in the Terrace Room is a Bay Area tradition with free-flowing champagne and a delicious buffet.
Nourish Grill
475 East Strawberry Dr
Mill Valley, CA eatatnourish.com on strawberry point
In Japanese, Robata means “by the fireside” and refers to the grill-style cooking of northern Japanese fishermen. Our menu offers traditional as well as contemporary fare. Over 25 premium sakes. Come see why we’ve been Mill Valley’s favorite Japanese restaurant for over 30 years.
Robata Grill & Sushi
591 Redwood Hwy.
415.381.8400 Mill Valley, CA robatagrill.com
The Counter offers all-natural, humanely-raised beef and 312,120+ combinations to build your own burger. The Counter is a great place for family, friends, great music and a full bar. Voted best burger in Bay Area by SFGate.com readers on Baylist 2011. ‘LIKE’ us on www.facebook.com/ TheCounterCorteMadera !
The Counter
201 Town Center
415.924.7000
Visit
415.721.0600 San Rafael, CA vinantico.com
Corte Madera, CA thecounterburger.com Where passion meets the plate….Offering Seasonal Farm to Table Fare in an elegant but comfortable setting. Serving Lunch and Dinner. Our warm, inviting Wine Bar features 30 wines by the glass, sourced from small artisan producers. Join us for New Year’s Eve. Vin Antico 881 4th Street
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Overcoat by Yoko of Mimdo grey, black,
Sales and Rentals • Fort Mason Center
2 Marina Blvd., Building A, San Francisco, CA 94123 415-441-4777
www.sfmoma.org/visit/artists_gallery
Gallery Hours
Tuesday through Saturday 10:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Amanda Boe
Sanyok Gallery, a center for innovative, contemporary arts, was launched in 2008. It became one of the most prominent art galleries in Northern California. Located on Sausalito’s waterfront, it attracts thousands of tourists. The owners of the gallery exhibit the most talented, authentic, and outstanding paintings. Private tours are available. Our hours of operation are every day, 11-5pm.
Michal Tav, Arabesque, 2013, oil on canvas, 32” x 48”
Exhibition with Robert Ogata
Karron Power, MD, MPH
Marin Home
FROM TOURS AND MAKEOVERS TO DECORATIVE DETAILS AND REALTOR INSIGHTS
A heritage oak towers over the steps leading to a patio at Miramar, one of the oldest homes in Sausalito.
BY LAURA HILGERS • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER
EVERYTHING YOU NEED to know about Linda Gaudiani’s Sausalito home, the Miramar house, can be found in its staircase. The wooden post on the fi rst-floor landing is from the original 1884 home and is carved with a classic Victorian design. The stairs attached to it are minimalistic cherry planks, held in place by modern steel balusters.
“I love the eclectic combination,” says Gaudiani, a Marin County endocrinologist. “The previous owners, David and Christy Williams, were architects and they juxtaposed the old and the new in a way that is just brilliant.”
This combination also reflects Gaudiani’s life, a blend of old and new. Before moving, she had lived in a six-bedroom Ross home, happily raising four children while working. But the kids are in and out — off o college and graduate schools or getting married —and she needed something that worked better with her changing family.
Meanwhile, her friend Sylvie Zolezzi, a realtor, had already seen the house. “I felt like it was so amazing and unique,” says Zolezzi,
“and I thought, oh, I hope I ca n fi nd someone who will fall in love with it.”
The courtship was slow. Gaudiani could imagine living in this cozier home, which included both a cottage and expansive basement to accommodate adult children or her aging mother. But she didn’t feel ready to leave Ross. It was when another potential buyer for the Sausalito home appeared in late summer 2012 that matters came to a head.
When she moved in six weeks later, Gaudiani brought the past with her. She removed two colorful and edgy Murano glass light fixtures from her Ross home, placing one in the foyer and one in the kitchen. And she filled the modern kitchen, which features a huge curved stainless-steel exhaust hood, pale green refrigerator and French limestone counters, with vintage pieces from her Italian forebears.
Yet the kitchen, which delights Gaudiani, a serious cook, has one small problem: the nearly overwhelming views of heritage oaks and Richardson Bay. “Whenever I have a
dinner party,” she says, “no one wants to move to the dining room.”
On the second floor, the eclectic mix continues. The Victorian roof has been cut out to accommodate a sleek skylight that illuminates all three stories. But open any door, and you find that the hinges and doorknobs are all original.
What Gaudiani loves most about her house is not only these intriguing small details but also the lingering presence of the people who’ve lived here before. “This house has so much history,” she says. “You can just tell it had families in it. It’s had a lot of life.” m
THE DETAILS
WHERE SHE PURCHASED The Banana Belt neighborhood of Sausalito WHAT SHE BOUGHT A four-bedroom renovated Victorian
LISTING AGENT Patricia Oxman, Frank Howard Allen
SELLING AGENT Sylvie Zolezzi, currently with Decker Bullock/Sotheby’s International Realty
STATS Average price per square foot for homes in the neighborhood: $800–$900
Opposite page: The Italian-style gardens; the home’s entryway. This page, clockwise from top left: Gaudiani’s knickknacks; opaque kitchen cabinets; Linda Gaudiani; an antique dining room table; staircase detail; the kitchen’s banquette.
Nobody can do Everything, but Everyone can do Something
Did You Know?
■ More than 20% of population affected. More than 51,000 residents of Marin County are in need of food assistance. The people whose income is low enough to put them at risk of hunger increased 54% between 2008 and 2011.
■ Seniors are especially hard hit. One third of Marin's seniors live on a fixed income below the elder self-sufficiency standard of $27,000 per year to cover basic costs of living in Marin. Marin's geography & poor public transportation system leave many residents isolated without easy access to grocery stores.
That is why now through December 31st, all Alain Pinel Realtors of Marin County will be accepting donations of non-perishable food, as well as new or gently-used coats and other clothing items in support of the Marin Community Food Bank, The Ritter Center, and our neighbors in need this holiday season. Donations can be made at any of our five Marin County offices or at any of our Sunday Open Houses across the county.
For more information about this program, please call 415.755.1111 or email our Marin office manager, Steve Dickason, at sdickason@apr.com.
Oakdale Avenue, Mill Valley
In Contract! Elegant, 5bd/4.5ba compound built in 2000 as a custom estate and sited on a level 9492+/-sf lot. Close to town. Attached, legal in-law quarters. Amazing indoor/ outdoor courtyards.
298OakdaleAvenue.com
$3,795,000 Suzanne Shelhart 415.613.0100
Mountain View, San Rafael Dominican’s own Gatsby Estate-Heather Hill. Remodeled 1916 Georgian Manor on nearly 2 private acres. 5300+sf, gracious, light-filled rooms, high ceilings, pool, patio, lawns and guest house.
Baywood Avenue, Ross
Extraordinary, down-to-studs, 2005 remodel with panoramic views. 4 bedroom, 3 bath contemporary Craftsman. Distinguished Ross School District.
55Baywood.com
$2,595,000
Diana Hammer 415.259.7007
Stephanie Lamarre 415.806.3176
Laverne Avenue, Mill Valley
Nearly flawless, 5bd/4ba home in a tranquil setting. Light-filled living spaces built to the highest standards with high-end finishes and custom-built details throughout. Tree studded views and beautifully landscaped.
364LaverneAve.com
$2,995,000
Mountain View, San Rafael Stunning new home located in the “Heart of Dominican.” Traditional 6bd/4.5ba, sited on a large, level, 10,943+/-sf lot with ample room for pool and guest house. Three-car garage.
El Capitan Avenue, Mill Valley
Reduced $300k! 3bd/2.5ba on a .66+/-acre lot. A magnificent property transformed. Private and secluded with gracious outdoor areas ideal for entertaining. In an A+ location.
19MountainView.com
$2,895,000
Suzanne Shelhart 415.613.0100
Beth Brody 415.987.2384 Sage Court, Novato 5bd, 4ba home with panoramic views. Gourmet kitchen, dramatic formal dining and living rooms, Travertine flooring throughout lower level, Pebble Tech pool. Rear yard perfect for entertaining.
BrittAndBarbaraJohnson.com
$1,995,000
Britt Johnson 415.898.6600
Red Hill Circle, Tiburon Stunning, 3bd/2.5ba home with exquisite views of SF, Angel Island and Belvedere. Gated entry, flowing floor plan, spacious kitchen, step-down living room with fireplace, private patio and a 2-car garage.
1ElCapitan.com
$2,095,000
Kristine Tiret 415.310.0269
Inverness Way, Inverness
One-of-a-kind, vintage, 4bd/2ba home. 1896 Cape Cod, beautifully restored with a contemporary feel. Gourmet kitchen, dining room with
6InvernessWay.com
$1,425,000 Rick Trono 415.515.1117
INTRODUCING WATERFORD TERRACE, SAN RAFAEL
115 Waterford Terrace $1,525,000
A Modern Masterpiece! Beautiful transformation of architect’s studio/garage into a dramatic home by Rosenbach Construction, offering an open concept design with approximately 2,900 sq ft of luxurious living area, high ceilings, walls of windows, rich finishes and stunning view.
102 Waterford Terrace
$925,000
Brand New Construction. Beautiful, new, one-story home, approximately 2,240 sq ft, built by Diego Bros. Construction with an open concept floor plan including large living room, dining area, gourmet kitchen, elegant master and level yard.
103 Waterford Terrace
$895,000
Brand New Construction. Stunning, new, one-story home, approximately 2,125 sq ft, built by Diego Bros. Construction offering a spacious great room, 3 bedrooms, 3 full baths, chef’s kitchen, elegant master and level yard.
TEAMWORK
• Three Licensed Agents working for you
• More than 1500 Closed Transactions
• Serving Marin since 1977 Call us to find out why our clients love being part of our team.
Janice GuehringAlva FallaJennifer Falla Firkins
COLDWELL BANKER
Front row, left to right: Jerry Piro, Lee Spelman, Marilee Brand, Iraj Zolnasr, Tom Davis
Back row, left to right: Jean Mastagni, Jeannine Voix, Jill Hill, Margaret Deedy, Kate Hamilton, Jen Pennington, Melann Mushet
West Marin
by B.G. Bates
Nicasio
$1,595,000
Exceptional rural residence on 9± acres with rock walls and sweeping pastoral views.
Bolinas
$915,000
Whale Watch from Home! Super ocean views day and night. Private; next to Pt Reyes park.
Private country setting, excellent indooroutdoor flow, separate studio above garage.
Point Reyes Station
$695,000
Enchanting, gently sloping 5.84 acres with infrastructure borders National Seashore.
$3,995,000
Ultimate getaway has main residence, gate house and cottage on 3.5± acres.
Nicasio
$795,000
Untouched 60± acres with impressive vistas, water in, rights to hike adjacent 282± acres.
PENDING Inverness
$1,150,000
Luminous, clerestoried design floods interior with natural light on 1.4± acres.
West Marin is my niche market. I know it, inside out. Coastal, agricultural, rural residential. Love where you live. I do.
This exquisite Tudor style home has everything you are looking for: privacy behind double iron gates with a circular driveway and expansive Mt. Tamalpais and Bay views. Sited on a 1.18 acre lot, with a mature, landscaped garden and fruit trees; and of course, distinctive architecture. This multi-level estate comes with spacious living areas including five bedrooms, five full bathrooms, two half-baths and a three-car garage with a long driveway and a large courtyard parking for 8+ cars. www.4ParkPlace.com
offered at $4,995,000 Kim Le (415) 608-2776
Enjoy commanding, panoramic views of the bay and hills -- from San Francisco to Mt. Diablo to Mt. Tam -- from this exceptionally dramatic 4BR/3BA, contemporary craftsman-style home on a private lane. Fabulous for indoor and outdoor entertaining with 3 fireplaces, great room with chef’s kitchen, living & dining rooms all have spectacular views and open to the beautiful Pau Lope hardwood deck and adjacent gazebo and spa. The master bedroom has its own fireplace, views, and deck, plus luxury bath, a 3 car garage plus covered parking for 3 cars. There is easy access to downtown Mill Valley, Mt. Tam, San Francisco Bay, and coastal recreation.
offered at $2,195,000
CLaudia Hampe (415) 383-3820
Marin Estate ~ 12.48 Acres of Incomparable Beauty
This beautiful 7,600± square foot, 23 room Spanish Mediterranean estate offers unique custom amenities and architectural features throughout. Additional features include a Guest house, a Multiuse Studio, small vineyard plus small stable and fenced pastures. The property provides a peaceful country setting, sustainable living environment, and sweeping views of 5 counties. The main residence features grand scale spaces throughout including 5 bedrooms, 2 family rooms, separate den / media room, library, observatory and more. Secluded and private, yet close to 37 & 101.
offered at $3,395,000
patterson (415) 599-5337
With stunning Mt. Tam views and a distinctive panorama, this luxurious one acre remodeled retreat provides an oasis of privacy and exceptional living. Dramatic, vaulted ceilings in the living room and formal dining room boast large windows with decks creating an indoor-outdoor living and entertaining experience overlooking mature landscaping with abundant sun. 4BR/3BA, 3,200 sq. ft. Gourmet chef’s kitchen with stainless steel appliances, designer high-end finishes and walk-in pantry. Relax in your Spa on your own private deck with sublime views. offered at $1,795,000
823-3099
Your Own Castle in Tiburon
Breathtaking Views from Mill Valley Hilltop
Iconic
Magnificent Panoramic Views from Mill Valley
Why compromise when you can have it all? This remodeled contemporary estate is perfectly located for the discerning buyer looking for a property that offers the convenience and prestige of the Woodlands flats, as well as the privacy and tranquility of a Woodlands view estate. The family friendly floor plan and landscaped garden & lawn areas are ideal for both day to day indoor/outdoor living and entertaining on special occasions.
at $4,250,000
GElman (415) 686-1855
Style, Luxury & Convenience in San Anselmo
Breathtaking views of Mt. Tam, the Seminary and San Francisco Bay highlight this spacious four bedroom, three and one-half bath home, minutes from downtown San Anselmo. Special features include gated entry, cathedral ceilings, hardwood floors, office and gym. Entertain in the spacious chef’s kitchen with gas stove, double oven, warming drawer and indoor grill. Peaceful and private lush grounds with mature fruit trees lead to pool and hot tub with waterfall. Freshly painted. Award winning San Anselmo schools. Attached two car garage. Not to be missed!
at $1,649,000
GElman (415) 686-1855
One of a Kind Property in San Anselmo
This is the rare opportunity to own two homes plus a detached studio on two adjoining parcels just blocks from downtown. You will be delighted by the attention to detail and quality craftsmanship in this Anawalt designed estate. The main house features a master suite with spa-like bath, hardwood floors, cathedral ceilings, stone fireplace, and a flat, spacious back yard in a creek side setting. There is a detached two room studio with cathedral ceilings & adjacent to the studio is another parcel, with a private 1BR/1BA home. The peaceful grounds are truly magical and a delight for entertaining, with beautiful gardens, fountains and Mt. Tam views. offered at $1,995,000 Eric GElman (415) 686-1855
A San Anselmo Gem
Style, luxury and convenience await in this exquisite, custom, architecturally designed home. Features 4 bedrooms, 3 baths with an open floor plan, a great room with cathedral ceilings and custom touches throughout. Entertain in the chef’s kitchen with high end stainless steel appliances and subzero fridge. A master suite with sumptuous master bath. Italian villa style outdoors with gardens and a pagoda for incredible outdoor dining. Located in the desirable flats in the heart of the sought after Morningside neighborhood. Close proximity to award winning San Anselmo schools. offered at $1,265,000
GElman (415) 686-1855
Magnificent Gated Kent Woodlands Estate
SAN RAFAEL
This unique & private property offers three separate homes on a sprawling 47.5± acre gated parcel. Breathtaking views of the Bay & Mt. Tam. 6 Lot split possible. Please call for an appointment.
at $9,950,000
Barbara Ivy (415) 328-6413
SAN ANSELMO
Spectacular craftsman style home is located in the coveted Upper Brookside neighborhood. Built in 2002 with attention to every last detail.5BR/4.5BA.
Eric Gelman (415) 686-1855
SAN ANSELMO
Privacy and tranquility are the essence of this spacious 3BR/2BA located in the heart of Sleepy Hollow. Open floor plan with gorgeous high ceilings, living room with fireplace.
Zamira Solari (415) 509-1479
SAN RAFAEL
This custom home was designed to maximize the spectacular views from nearly every room. World-class views of the SF Bay, Richmond Bridge & Mount Tam. Resort-style salt-water pool with spa and deck.
at $1,695,000
Deborah Solvason (415) 519-3555
SAN RAFAEL
Single level home in Los Ranchitos with large living & family rooms, two dining areas, 4BR/2BA and an In-law unit. Also features pool, pool house and hobby vineyard.
Robert Bradley (415) 314-1314
GREENBRAE
Fantastic Bay & Mount Tam views, end unit, wraparound balcony. Minutes to Marin General, Bon Air shopping center, Larkspur Landing and Ferry. Top-rated schools. 3BR/2BA.
Peter Harris (415) 320-9355
SEBASTOPOL
Expansive, park-like lawns, colorful flowers and pathways lead you through the exquisite gardens. 3BR/3BA. Uniquely designed with 1BR/1BA off from main home - great for in-law or au pair.
at $1,275,000
Julie Mendonca (415) 328-0147
This 3BR/2BA
and
Johnson (415) 515-7010
MENDOCINO COUNTY
96+ acre Vineyard Estate with panoramic views across McNab Valley. Single level residence has 4300+ sf, 4BR/3BA and vineyard views from most rooms.
Sondra Oczkus (415) 806-6064
Kentfield contemPorary
Kentfield | contemporary dream home | web: 0086280 | $2,999,000 Price reduced this beautiful mediterranean home built in 2005 feels and looks like a brand new home! this home with Panoramic views of mt. tam and the ross Valley has it all! the property was designed with the beauty of its natural surrounding in mind and state of the art features one would expect for today’s modern family. this approx. 4,600 sq. ft. home features four bedrooms with en-suite baths, three fireplaces, large two car garage with covered carport, two family rooms, home office, and beautifully landscaped grounds with plenty of level yard space. the attention to detail is evident in this lang development custom home. for a more in depth list of this home’s special features please view the property website at KentfieldLuxuryEstates.com
nicasio | jerry garcia’s former estate | web: 0085232 | $3,250,000 Price reduced jerry garcia’s former estate is regarded as one of the true jewels of nicasio, if not all of marin. Perched atop a sunny hillside the estate offers expansive views from mt. tam to the Berkeley skyline. the approx. 7,000 sq. ft., 5 bedroom, 7 bath, mediterranean style home sits on approx. 11 acres and has all of the amenities of an extraordinary villa. Besides the lovely grounds, pool, and hot tub, there is an approx. 1,500 sq. ft. artist’s studio, a 6-car garage, an organic garden, and even a high volume well fitted with a water purification system. approx. 12 min to hWy 101 and 35 to the golden gate Bridge. this property can be purchased with nicasiogreenacres.com which is approx. 115 acres and is independently owned. 55ElMirador.com
Rissa Bullock
Luxury Property Specialist
Pacific Union is Proud to Welcome Rissa Bullock
Contact
415.308.2700
rissa.bullock@pacunion.com
pacificunion.com
BRE#01292647
About Rissa
Rissa Bullock is a veteran real estate professional, a long-time Marin County resident, and the mother of an active young son and daughter. Her career began more than two decades ago with her family’s real estate business in Atlanta. Rissa continued her real estate career after moving to Marin County in 1998, and today she has extensive knowledge of southern Marin County real estate, particularly homes in Belvedere and Tiburon.
Rissa was drawn to the region by its stunning beauty, its healthy lifestyles, and its easy access to hiking trails, parks, and an abundance of outdoor activities. She is committed to helping families find the perfect new home and experience all that Marin County has to offer.
Rissa is a skilled negotiator and resourceful real estate professional for both homebuyers and sellers, helping guide them through the intricacies and unique conditions of the Marin County real estate market. She also brings to her clients a passion for interior design and décor, helping sellers showcase their homes in the best possible light.
Now on board with Pacific Union, the leading luxury brokerage in Northern California, Rissa has global access to market your home to high-net-worth individuals around the world through Pacific Union’s affiliation with Christie’s International Real Estate.
Whether buying or selling, take advantage of Rissa Bullock’s expertise, her knowledge of the region, and her total commitment to your real estate needs.
Old Town Tiburon! 2441 Spanish Trail Road
Move right in to this completely remodeled view home perched on an exquisite lot overlooking Angel Island and Keil Cove. The traditional floor plan embodies what discriminating buyers are searching for. Upon entering, a grand staircase captures your eye and an elegant glass nautical chandelier welcomes you inside. The formal living room boasts a fireplace, built-in bookshelves and French doors opening to the level lawn and magical water views. The formal dining room also enjoys bay views. To cater to the chef in you, the spacious kitchen features custom cabinetry, Calacatta Vagli Oro marble counters and bar counter as well as new stainless steel appliances including a 36” Wolf stove, Subzero refrigerator/ freezer, and KitchenAid ovens and dishwasher. The Great Room offers a fireplace and an eat-in area adjacent to a private patio and additional level lawn with spacious wrap-around bench seating. The lower level includes a separate office off the main entrance and a half bath with Akdo Ming green marble with mosaic inlay. The second floor consists of four generously-sized bedrooms and three full bathrooms. The master bedroom has spectacular water views, a wood burning fireplace, two separate closets and an exquisitely designed contemporary bathroom with porcelain hardwood flooring, travertine shower and vanity counter. Robert Simkins Construction Inc. and Designer Gay Jones. Located minutes to town, the ferry and the award-winning Tiburon Schools. Offered at $2,795,000 2441SpanishTrailRoad.com
Belvedere & Tiburon Listings
5 Barner Lane, Tiburon
Santa Barbara lifestyle with this gate 5200 square foot estate affords serenity and privacy while incorporating the finest materials and craftsmanship. Visually striking interiors are enhanced by a sparkling bay view and spectacular landscaping with heritage oaks, rose and dahlia gardens and pictureesque splash pool. Just two minutes to Marin’s finest private schools.
Co-Listed with Britt Engle, 415.601.0077
Listed at $5,995,000
2 Spring Lane, Tiburon
Affording serenity and privacy this level three bedroom two bath home boasts a plethora of stunning interior and exterior living and entertaining options to take advantage of the expansive San Francisco and surrounding Bay view.
Listed at $4,595,000
77 Belvedere Avenue, Belvedere
Blessed by an abundance of natural beauty, this elegant 3000+ square foot four bedroom, three bath home affords serenity and privacy while displaying the finest materials and craftsmanship. Visually striking interiors are enhanced by the spectacular bay views, which extend from the City of San Francisco through the Golden Gate Bridge and all the way to Mount Tamalpais. In a breathtaking setting the elegant and well-proportioned rooms display high ceilings. Most rooms or hallways have exterior doors that lead to multiple view decks, the pool patio or the living room patio with its 180-degree views.
Listed at $4,690,000
825 Stony Hill Road, Tiburon
This idyllic location encompasses serenity and privacy while displaying sensational framed panoramas of San Francisco, Golden Gate, Bay, and Mount Tamalpais. At the end of a cul-de-sac yet close to the bike path, this four bedroom, two and two half bath elegant custom contemporary home displays visually striking interior and exterior spaces.
Listed at $2,995,000
815
$5,995,000 www.815stonyhill.com
$2,495,000 www.3606paradise.com
$2,250,000 www.320uppertoyon.com
$1,799,000
Scott Woods & Bill Smith
Luxury Property Specialists
415.419.4510
scott.woods@pacunion.com
BRE#01863705
415.902.4456
bill@williamjsmith.com
BRE#01229913
Magnificent 4 bedroom, 4 bath contemporary masterpiece with unobstructed views of the Bay from Angel Island and the San Francisco skyline to the Golden Gate Bridge. This impressive gated retreat is ideally nestled in a prime Tiburon location, coveted for privacy, sunny southern exposure, superior views, and large, half-acre lots. Sprawling lawn terraces frame this architectural gem. A beautiful sanctuary beckons as you enter this exquisite custom home. Handsome, hand stacked ledge stone walls meet Brazilian cherry floors and solid mahogany windows and doors. Chef’s dream kitchen is equipped with Wolf range with Abbaka hood, Sub-Zero fridge, Miele double ovens. Glorious master suite has straight on Golden Gate bridge views. Welcome home!
Rooms with a View
Wonderful rare home and property in Mill Valley. In one of the most desirable neighborhoods close to everything. Excellent schools, shopping, the outstanding Community Center of Mill Valley and hiking trails. Also a great commute location. 4 bedrooms 3 baths with world class views. Pool, sun, level yard on over 1/2 acre lot. A dramatic drive and entrance greet you. Plans available for a dramatic renovation of one of the most desirable estates in Mill Valley www.13overhill.com
Class and Elegance
Exclusive Northridge property in Mill Valley with San Francisco views from all living areas of the home. Great spot for hiking, top rated schools, the fabulous Mill Valley community center and a great commute location. Private, sunny and serene on a gently sloping 15,620 sq. ft. lot which could possibly house a south facing pool. Four bedrooms 2 1/2 baths plus an additional bedroom on the upper level now used as an office. Attached garage with upper level entry. A truly special home. www.7escalon.com
Single Level Luxury
Located in the exclusive Breakers area in Southern Novato. House was new in 2006 and upgraded in almost every detail when built. Large rare lot in this area creates a very private outlook and living situation. 3 bedroom suites are separated by the living areas of the home creating great live work locations. Professional kitchen with Wolf Subzero Asko, butler’s pantry with full size Subzero wine cellar. Tiled floors and custom carpets. Great developed outdoor areas with yards and hardscape. 3 Bedrooms could be 4 with 4th being used as office. Over 3200 sq. ft. home by tax records and the lot is nearly 1/2 acre. Cul de sac with sidewalks. Close to everything. www.3creekviewct.com
Thanks to all our friends and clients that have referred buyers and sellers to us over the last nearly 20 years.
Have a great holiday season!
Old Town Tiburon Jewel
Move right in to this completely remodeled view home sited on an exquisite lot overlooking Angel Island and Keil Cove. The traditional floor plan embodies what discriminating buyers are searching for. The main floor boasts a formal living room and dining room. French doors lead to a level lawn and magical water views. The chef’s kitchen features custom cabinetry, Calcutta marble counters and new stainless steel appliances. The family room offers a fireplace and opens to a large deck and additional level lawn. The lower level also includes a separate office and half bath. The upper level has four generously-sized bedrooms and three full bathrooms. The master has spectacular water views, a fireplace, private deck, two closets and a designer bathroom. offered at $2,795,000
The Boyle Estate
$3,195,000
Mill Valley’s most iconic estate, the Boyle Home is known as the “Oldest documented house in Mill Valley,” built in 1885. 4300sf, 5BD/3.5BA plus 600sf, 1BD/1BA rental unit sited up on a hill with beautiful Mt. Tam and San Francisco views. Exquisitely updated from the foundation up, the home is rich with history and embodies elegant living from a bygone era with period details throughout. The full length entry porch leads to the formal foyer with grand staircase, formal living and dining rooms featuring period details throughout including wainscot and picture rail moldings. The designer kitchen opens to a beautiful private brick patio, rose garden and large level yard with mature fruit trees. Meticulous attention to every detail including four bedrooms on one level and whimsical attic playroom One block from Park Elementary School and Boyle Park in your backyard. www.10-12ManorTerrace.com
134 Reed Boulevard, Mill Valley PENDING Listed at $1,650,000 Representing Seller
12 Via Paraiso, Tiburon SOLD Listed at $3,200,000 Represented Buyer
85 Marin View, Mill Valley $1,695,000*
319 Ricardo Road, Mill Valley $990,000*
185 Rancho, Tiburon $2,095,000+
102 Inez Place, Mill Valley $1,395,000*
170 Almonte, Mill Valley $1,095,000**
44 Lower North Terrace, Tiburon $1,750,000**
8 Old Landing, Tiburon $1,795,000*
9 Vista del Sol, Mill Valley $1,500,000**
213 Stanford, Mill Valley $1,595,000**
18 Heron, Mill Valley SOLD Offered at $2,690,000 Represented Buyer
12 Indian Rock Court, Tiburon SOLD Listed at $2,250,000 Represented Buyer
Additional 2013 Sales
413 Ash St., Mill Valley $995,000**
5 Felipa Court, Tiburon $1,795,000*
1002 Greenhill, Mill Valley $1,295,000*
183 Buchanan, Sausalito $1,050,000**
140 Cypress, Sausalito $549,000**
39 Corte Morada, Greenbrae $1,195,000*
933 S. Eliseo, Greenbrae $595,000**
113 Greenwood, San Rafael $879,000**
40 Cypress Hollow, Tiburon pending $2,250,000**
Monterey,
153 South Ridgewood, Kentfi eld SOLD Listed at $2,239,000 Represented Buyer
23 South Knoll, Mill Valley pending $1,495,000*
569 Alta Way, Mill Valley pending $1,225,000*
* Represented Seller
** Represented Buyer
+ Represented Buyer and Seller
The Red House
Mystery still surrounds one of Mill Valley’s original homes.
BY CALIN VAN PARIS
YOU MAY HAVE heard about the abandoned house in Mill Valley at 542 Miller Avenue (top of the hill on the right in the above photo) that caught fi re and was torn down this past September. What you may not know is that the house had been around since 1920 and is rumored to have been a hideout for spies during World War II. Before the land in front of the building was developed, the second-story window provided a clear view of the bay and the railroad. Steve Schumaker, 64, lived in the “red house” in 1949 during the fi rst year of his life; various members of his family resided there from
the early 1930s until 1995, when the most recent occupant, Schumaker’s Aunt Meda, passed away. The then-vacant home soon became a hangout for Tamalpais High students, whose school was a stone’s throw away. This picture, taken in the 1920s, shows the house on its original foundation with two wells and a basement level; it was moved (to the left, on the hill above the other house pictured, which still exists as the Mill Valley Pet Clinic) in 1948 because of earthquake damage. Little is known about the origins of this property, and this image, provided by Schumaker, is the fi rst historical photo in the local public record. m
CIRCA 1920s
College Planning Isn’t Just for Your Children
College admissions can be a daunting process for your child and the rest of the family, but planning doesn’t have to be. The earlier you plan for this time in your child’s life, the easier it’ll be for you and your family to send your child off to college knowing that you’re fully prepared for this opportunity.
But planning for college means more than just putting aside money for tuition, room and board. We believe college planning should involve your family’s entire financial picture, from short-term budgeting to longer term ambitions. For some, this might be looking at refinancing an existing mortgage for a better fit or deciding where the family will live for the next several years. The most important thing is that you and your children are ready for this next phase in life with thorough planning. And the earlier you develop and put your plans into motion, the better the chances of success.
At Opes Advisors, we’ve built our business around looking at our clients’ overall financial picture to make prudent and informed decisions. If you have any questions about how to finance your child’s college education, call us to discuss ideas and solutions that best fit your family’s situation.
Help when you make the most important financial decisions of your life.
From left to right: Judy Stern, Nolan Misitano, Jeff Smith, Marian Jung, Erin Whalen, Melanie Victor-Smith, Karen Burrous, Marc Herrenbruck
