local faces
January 2022
“I never felt there was anything limiting me. That’s powerful.” ― Interview by Cara Cummings
Miss Universe Jamaica. Contestant on The Apprentice. Hit Caribbean restaurateur. As April Jackson’s iconic Three Little Birds reopens as Wood and Water, we ask: is there anything this south London powerhouse can’t achieve? (Clue: the answer is probably no…)
Your iconic restaurant Three Little Birds is now Wood and Water. Tell us about the concept behind your new restaurant, Wood and Water. I was in Brixton for six years as Three Little Birds before Covid hit. The pandemic gave us space to reflect; I realised that the reason I started in this industry is that I wanted to change perceptions about Caribbean food. In the UK, it’s very much still seen as takeaways, lots of rice and meat; nothing with much finesse. We were doing small sharing plates at Three Little Birds, which was a twist on the usual Caribbean offering, but too many things on the menu felt familiar. I felt like we were treading middle ground. It was time to really push the boundaries that we set out to push in the beginning. I couldn't have opened Wood and Water six years ago. I wouldn't have had the confidence. People call me a chef now, which still makes me laugh. I prefer to say I cook, and people pay for it! Wood and Water is a reflection of my personal journey. It’s called Wood and Water because ‘Jamaica’ is derived from ‘xaymaca’, which means ‘land of wood and water’. We’re a modern British restaurant with a Jamaican soul. How’s the reception been so far? This Covid beast has been really hard in terms of figures. You can get squeaky-bum nervous
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