REDEFINING Textile Waste Sorting
All Photos/UTEXAID
AUTOMATION
Impulses and Findings for the Future on Next-Gen Sorting Facilities By Samanta Fruci, Anna Pehrsson and Gesine Köppe
he “Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock” (TTWiF) project (initiated by TEXAID within the ReHubs initiative) conducted a technology assessment to identify the best available sorting techniques and processes for textile recycling. The assessment identified the need for automated and scalable textile sorting solutions to address the challenges in recycling. The assessment evaluated various technologies and identified requirements for material composition recognition, fiber-to-fiber recycling, and pre-processing. While some technologies showed promise, there were limitations in accurately identifying material composition and capturing other performance metrics. A two-step sorting process was recommended for precise sorting in fiber-to-fiber recycling. Overall, the project aims to revolutionize the textile recycling industry and promote a more circular textile economy. The problem is that European textile consumption contributes significantly to environmental pollution and climate
T
change. There is a large amount of textile waste being generated, but only a small percentage of it is being collected and recycled. By 2025, all EU member states will be required to collect textile waste separately, which will increase the quantity of waste collected but may decrease the quality. To create a circular textile loop, the sorting process for recycled materials needs to be improved and automated. The aim of the “Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock” project was to understand the current state of textile waste sorting in Europe and develop a blueprint for a more advanced sorting process. The project focused on three segments: semiautomated sorting for reuse, automated sorting for recycling qualities, and automated pre-processing for recycling. The goal is to automate and enhance the sorting process by implementing technologies such as sensor-based parameter detection and digital product passports. Additionally, the project aimed to improve the accuracy of material composition determination for recycling purposes by scanning both the inside and outside of
garments. Pre-processing techniques are also explored to remove impurities from products before fiber-to-fiber recycling.
Sorting on a Mission TEXAID is a company that specializes in textile sorting and recycling. They collect and process approximately 80,000 tons of textiles each year, employing over 1,200 people and operating second-hand shops in Germany. The “Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock” project involved collaboration between TEXAID and various companies, organizations, and institutions in the textile industry to promote scaled textile sorting in Europe. The project aims to exchange knowledge, drive innovation, and address challenges within the industry. The assessment of technologies for the project was commissioned to ITA Academy GmbH in collaboration with Institut für Textiltechnik Augsburg gGmbH, Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (together representing ITA Group – International Centre for Sustainable Textiles), and SAS CETIA, France. ISSUE 1 2024 ifj.com 21
