4 minute read
FOOD AND WINE
Above: ‘Eclisse’ by Vico Magistretti for Artemide, 1965 Below: ‘Toro’ by Luigi Caccia Dominioni for Azucena, 1973
Carlo Cracco, born in 1965 in Vicenza, is leader of the new generation of progressive Italian cuisine
他选择了米
兰作为事业
的起点
From the beginnings to Milan
星级大厨师卡罗-克拉科 (Carlo Cracco) 讲述他的故事 The great Michelin-star chef Carlo Cracco tells his story
TEXT Federica Damiani PHOTO Niccolò Rastrelli
“当我还是个孩子的时候，我都不知道有星级餐厅的存在。 我知道那些酒店里有餐厅，但是从来没去过。 在家里我们吃得好得 多， 我母亲做的维琴蒂娜鳕鱼比任何一家本地的餐厅都要好吃。 具有鲜明个性的当代厨师卡罗-克拉科这样讲述着他的人生历程 最初完全出于偶然，我报名参加了酒店协会的培训只是因为在 那里我每天可以学习二十分钟烹饪。在70年代后期，我的姐姐 跟我讲到一家米兰的星级餐馆，还给我看了一份叫《 盛宴Gran Gourmet》 的美食杂志，上面有很多精致菜肴的照片。对于当时在 饭店煮“意大利面、火腿和豌豆”的我来说，展示了一个崭新的 世界。” 您是离开了马尔凯西才去米兰的吗？ 是的，我是一个有好奇心的人。马尔凯西是一位很有组织的厨师。 在我们的团队里，每人都各有所长。 有个日本人擅长片生鱼，谁都 没见过片得这么好得的鱼， 有一个德国人很懂腌制三文鱼，还有很 多其他精彩绝活……我的拿手好戏是烤肉，我能在三十秒内切好一 只羊腿。 我们当时一共15个学徒，其中只有3个意 大利人。 您是什么时候开始做第一道菜的？ 当时我在巴黎。有一天大厨师想把烤饭加进餐厅的菜单 里，并让我尝试制作藏红花烩饭。我兴奋得不得了 。 “When I was a boy, I had no idea that restaurants had stars. I knew about hotel stars, but I had never been to a fancy restaurant. My mother’s home cooking was much better. No restaurant in town or anywhere near could beat mom’s salt cod stew”. Carlo Cracco, the contemporary chef with a clean-cut personality, recalls the beginnings of his career. “I had no passion whatsoever…I went to a hotel-management school because it was the only school where I could study no more than twenty minutes a day. Then, in the late seventies, my sister told me about a Michelin-starred restaurant in Milan and showed me a copy of Gran Gourmet, a gourmet food magazine with such perfect pictures of the dishes. A whole new world opened up for me”. And that is how you landed at Marchesi’s in Milan? Yes, I was so eager to learn. Marchesi was a methodical chef. Every member of his brigade specialized in one thing. The Japanese guy filleted the fish, and who had ever seen someone like that? The German boy prepared the marinated salmon, another thing that was completely new to me. I was a genius in boning meat. I could bone a lamb leg in thirty seconds. There were fifteen of us in the kitchen, only three of whom were Italian. When were you able to prepare your first dish? I was in Paris. The chef wanted to add a rice timbale to the menu and entrusted me with the task of creating a saffron risotto that could be used for 个性鲜明的当代厨师 Carlo Cracco is a contemporary chef with a clean-cut personality
跟在佛罗伦萨的皮诺奇诺餐厅 (Enoteca Pinchiorri) 领取第三颗星奖 的感觉一样吗？ 感觉不同但同样的强烈。您是一个很有勇气的厨师。您也许是最早 在米兰开餐厅的人之一... 绝对勇气十足。那是2000年代，当时大家都说在米兰很难觅到美 食。真的，美食餐厅十分罕见。只有萨德勒 (Sadler)，艾莫 (Aimo) ，纳迪亚 (Nadia) 和其他一些餐厅。所以，当佩克餐馆建议我来开 餐厅时，我立即离开了朗格， 来到了米兰。 当时或者是现在，为什么您对在米兰开设餐馆这么有信心呢？ 原因是一致的。 不管是今天或者是在二十年前，米兰始终是意大利 唯一具有远见卓识的城市。 米兰可以和东京，纽约，伦敦相媲美。 这里有高级的时装业，设计业。 这里每天都有新事物诞生。这里是 开办餐厅绝好的地方。 今天，大家都想在米兰开餐厅绝不是偶然的 现象。 您给大家描述一下您在画廊 (Galleria)里新 开的克拉科餐厅好吗？ 我为这个项目感到特别骄傲，尤其是因为我 们带到餐桌上的所有东西都是我们自己生 产的。 这里是米兰具有代表性的历史性场 所，因此我们在装修的时候，完全保留了原 the dish. It was a very exciting moment. As exciting as gaining the third Michelin star at Florence’s Enoteca Pinchiorri? Just as exciting, but in a different way. You are a pretty daring chef, perhaps one of the first to open a place in Milan… Definitely daring. Back in the early 2000s, I kept hearing people complain about bad restaurants in Milan. There was some truth to it, as there were few gourmet restaurants at the time: Sadler, Aimo, Nadia, a few more. So, when Peck offered me the chance to open my own place in Milan, I jumped at it right away and left the Langhe. What convinced you back then and what convinced you more recently to open in Milan? The reasons are more or less the same. Today like twenty years ago, Milan is the only Italian city having a visionary spirit. Milan looks to Tokyo, NY and London. This is the city where fashion and design were born, where things are born. So, I thought it could be the right place for my restaurant. It is no chance that now everyone wants to start a restaurant in Milan. How would you describe your new Cracco in Galleria restaurant? I’m very proud of this project for one reason in particular. Everything we serve is made by us. The restaurant is housed in a historic venue, like mostly all those inside the Galleria, so we renovated it while preserving the original decorations and spaces. On the ground floor, there is a bis- “走廊中的Cracco” 是美食与艺术的结合 ‘Cracco in Galleria’ is a crossroads between food and art
始的装饰风格和空间。 一楼有一个小酒馆，您可以在那里喝咖啡、 享用早餐或喝开胃酒。 糕点和面包都是我们自己制作的。 在二楼 有食品作坊和带有厨房的美食餐厅，在顶层则是举办商务晚宴或周 年纪念活动的完美场所。从这里望出去可以欣赏到美得让人窒息的 景色。 画廊里的克拉科餐厅一共有多少员工? 76个人。 他们来自世界各地。 在他们身上我仿佛看到自己年轻的时 候，他们非常镇定、谦卑、工作认真。 菜单上绝对不能错过的一道菜是什么 ? 我说有两个。第一道是鸡蛋因为那是我的拿手菜。第二道就是可可 脆壳多宝鱼，那是在我的伟大导师马尔凯西开导下创意的一道菜。 克拉科工作之余有什么爱好？ 尽量和家人呆在一起。 这可不是一句口头禅，时间是非常难得的。 这些天与我的夫人罗莎 (Rosa) 我们正在组织参加Mille Miglia的赛车 活动，老爷车是我的极大爱好。 罗莎 (Rosa) 来了，这就是将卡罗 (Carlo) 的创造力 整理下来的那个了不起的女人。 他看见她时眼神 一亮。 她微笑着做了一个舔手指的姿势，而他解 释道：“每次看到她总让我觉得我的人生还是蛮幸 运的， 噢，一生中有时运气真的很重要…” tro where customers can have breakfast or a drink or a cup of coffee. All pastries and bread are entirely made in-house, on the first floor. Then comes the gourmet restaurant with its kitchen and, on the last floor, a dining room for corporate events and private parties. The view is breathtaking. How many people work at Cracco in Galleria? Seventy-six people, coming from all over the world. In some ways, I see myself reflected in them at their age. The lovely thing about them is that they are very calm and do their job with great humility. What is the one must-try dish on your menu? I’ll have to pick two. The egg, because it’s my most gratifying dish, and the cocoa-crusted turbot because it was inspired by Marchesi, my great master. And what do you do when you’re not working? I relax and spend time with my family. It may sound commonplace, but it’s true. Time is the most precious gift. In these days, my wife Rosa and I are getting ready to take part in the Mille Miglia race. I’m passionately fond of vintage cars. And here comes Rosa, the woman who puts Carlo’s creativity in order. He looks at her through his smiling eyes. She makes a gesture of licking her fingers and laughs, while he says: “She does this to remind me how lucky I’ve been to meet her. Well, one can’t only have bad luck in life…good things happen too”. 奢华的装饰、优雅的环境 和四层楼高的布局 Sumptuous décor, elegant ambience and sprawling fourstorey layout
