CityBeat | July 27-August 9, 2022

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FOOD FOOD & DRINK & DRINK

Cocktail bar Anjou is located in East Walnut Hills.

Head to East Walnut Hills’ Branch for inventive pasta dish

P H OTO : H A I L E Y B O L L I N G E R

P H OTO : H A I L E Y B O L L I N G E R

P H OTO : H A I L E Y B O L L I N G E R

P H OTO : H A I L E Y B O L L I N G E R

Cocktail bar Anjou is located in East Walnut Hills.

Head to East Walnut Hills’ Branch for inventive pasta dish

O’Bryonville’s The Bonbonerie is one of the most beloved bakeries in Cincinnati. P H O T O : FA C E B O O K . C O M / B O N B O N E R I E

O’Bryonville’s The Bonbonerie is one of the most beloved bakeries in Cincinnati.

Madison Road Features Top Dining Destinations Madison Road Features Dining Destinations A stretch between East Walnut Hills and O’BryonvilleTop offers inventive meals, desserts and drinks.

P H O T O : FA C E B O O K . C O M / B O N B O N E R I E

R V I E W BYbetween PA M A M IT C H EWalnut LL AEstretch East

M M

R E V I E W BY PA M A M IT C H E L L adison Road – a major artery in Cincinnati – runs adison Road – a major from Victory Parkway in artery in Cincinnati – runs Avondale out to Madisonville, passing from Victory Parkway in through many neighborhoods along Avondale out to Madisonville, passing the way. And on a particular one-mile through many neighborhoods along section between East Walnut Hills and the way. And on a particular one-mile O’Bryonville, locals can find some of section between East Walnut Hills and the best eats and drinks in town. O’Bryonville, locals can find some of Here, there are a couple of wine the best eats and drinks in town. bars, a cocktail lounge, sweet treats, Here, there are a couple of wine creative burgers, excellent coffee, bars, a cocktail lounge, sweet treats, authentic Asian and South Americreative burgers, excellent coffee, can food and a young chef producauthentic Asian and South Ameriing inventive pasta dishes for every can food and a young chef producseason. ing inventive pasta dishes for every season.

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C I T Y B E AT. C O M

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Hills and O’Bryonville offers inventive meals, desserts and drinks.

That would be Alessandro Urbisci, executive chef at Branch (1535 MadiThat would be Alessandro Urbisci, son Rd., eatatbranch.com) since last executive chef at Branch (1535 Madifall. His pasta creations range from son Rd., eatatbranch.com) since last light and refreshing to hearty and fall. His pasta creations range from filling, always with a careful eye on light and refreshing to hearty and the season. Summer menu standfilling, always with a careful eye on outs include gnocchi with sun-dried the season. Summer menu standtomato pesto, house ricotta and outs include gnocchi with sun-dried preserved lemon, as well as spinach tomato pesto, house ricotta and tagliatelle sauced with gorgonzola, preserved lemon, as well as spinach braised pork and toasty breadcrumbs tagliatelle sauced with gorgonzola, gently seasoned with Calabrian chili. braised pork and toasty breadcrumbs The latter is plate-licking good. gently seasoned with Calabrian chili. Urbisci has a talent for sauces of all The latter is plate-licking good. kinds, and not only on pasta dishes. Urbisci has a talent for sauces of all kinds, and not only on pasta dishes.

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Even the whipped balsamic butter served with toasted bread from Allez Even the whipped balsamic butter Bakery had us asking for more. And served with toasted bread from Allez I loved the tomato-based concocBakery had us asking for more. And tion that accompanied an entrée I loved the tomato-based concocof branzino, although I would have tion that accompanied an entrée preferred the fish filet served whole of branzino, although I would have rather than cut up into pieces. New preferred the fish filet served whole York strip steak and pork ribs are two rather than cut up into pieces. New meaty main courses, if you’re looking York strip steak and pork ribs are two for something more substantial. meaty main courses, if you’re looking Across from Branch on Madison is for something more substantial. another highly regarded eatery, the Across from Branch on Madison is Japanese restaurant and bakery Café another highly regarded eatery, the Mochiko (1524 Madison Rd., cafeJapanese restaurant and bakery Café mochiko.com). Running for less than Mochiko (1524 Madison Rd., cafemochiko.com). Running for less than

a year, the bakery often attracts long lines on the four mornings a week the a year, the bakery often attracts long walk-up window is open. With the lines on the four mornings a week the easing of COVID-19 pandemic restricwalk-up window is open. With the tions, the café itself usually is availeasing of COVID-19 pandemic restricable, as well, if you want to sit and tions, the café itself usually is availscarf up some of the sweet and savory able, as well, if you want to sit and treats along with a cup of strong cofscarf up some of the sweet and savory fee or other drink. treats along with a cup of strong cofThe ube halaya croissant that bursts fee or other drink. with purple yam jam and cream is The ube halaya croissant that bursts killer, and it’s so large and decadent with purple yam jam and cream is that I’ve always had to cut it into slices killer, and it’s so large and decadent and share with at least one other perthat I’ve always had to cut it into slices son. During evenings, Mochiko serves and share with at least one other perwhat its website calls “Japanese café son. During evenings, Mochiko serves what its website calls “Japanese café


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