13 minute read
Destination North Cornwall: Coastal Cravings
Long admired for its natural beauty, Cornwall is now equally revered for its thriving food scene. Dream Escape heads to the north coast for a taste of what’s on offer and meets the chefs that are redefining coastal cuisine.
Cornwall’s dramatic landscapes have long captivated the soul, and now—whether you prefer Michelin-starred finesse or impeccably sourced simplicity—its kitchens are equally captivating the palate. With dramatic cliffs, golden beaches, and postcard-perfect harbour towns, the county’s north coast is home to a remarkable concentration of talented chefs, bakers, cocktail makers, and more. With a table to satisfy every appetite, Dream Escape offers curated access to the region’s most coveted dining experiences, seamlessly woven into bespoke itineraries that are rich in local flavour.
In the picturesque fishing village of Port Isaac, revered seafood chef Nathan Outlaw has not one but two Michelin starred restaurants.
“North Cornwall has evolved into a paradise for foodies,” explains Nathan, who also owns two luxurious holiday cottages and a beautifully renovated Victorian guest house in the village.
“The availability of high-quality produce has attracted an array of talented chefs. This has created friendly competition which in turn has improved the overall offering of food in the area. Coupled with the amazing countryside and coastal views and a laid-back atmosphere, there’s nowhere else quite like it.”
In prime position overlooking Port Isaac’s harbour sits Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen – a pictureperfect 15th century fishermen's cottage which the chef has transformed into a cosy and relaxed seafood restaurant. Quality and sustainability are a priority here, with dishes shaped exclusively by that day’s catch. A creative and well-designed set menu is served amongst characterful low ceilings and wonky windows which frame the harbour views perfectly. Carefully crafted small plates come first - soft, meaty mackerel swimming in salty soy, ginger and sesame; perfectly crisp cuttlefish and red pepper fritters; and Port Isaac lobster dumpling sat plumply in a broth delicately laced with chili and orange. Mains depend entirely on what’s been landed that day and often include the likes of local lobster, monkfish on the bone, octopus, bass, and more.
“We offer the highest quality, sustainably caught fish and seafood available to us and allow it to shine, treating it simply but with subtle layers of flavour,” Nathan explains.
“As the seafood and produce we use is, without compromise, the very best available on any given day, there’s no need to mask it with heavy sauces or gimmicks.”
After a walk along the beautiful coast path, Dream Escape guests can enjoy a wellearned lunch or dinner at Outlaw’s New Road – the chef’s refined yet laid back dining experience, where more Michelin-star skill meets sweeping sea views. The 7–10 course tasting menu here is a testament to the chef’s mastery of British seafood – a precise, elegantly paced journey that balances bold coastal flavours with understated finesse.
“Cornwall inspires me every day,” says Nathan. “Seeing what my growers, farmers and producers send me and their passion for what they do is inspiring in itself. Add to that the fact that I look out onto the sea – in all its glory, in all weathers and conditions, from my kitchen window – I can’t fail to be inspired.”
Nearby, Harlyn Bay is another Dream Escape favourite. This wide and sheltered beach can be found just west of Padstow and nestled just behind its golden sands sits THE PIG – a luxurious hotel well-known for its epicurean delights. Housed in a wonderfully evocative 15th-century building filled with stormy seascapes, roaring fires, and a wealth of quirky character at every turn, the hotel is wonderfully cosy. Within its rustic, candlelit restaurant, head chef Tom Holloway skilfully delivers a ‘25-mile menu’ using plot-to-plate produce harvested from the hotel’s large kitchen garden alongside other strictly local ingredients sourced from within a 25-mile radius.
“Showcasing our beautiful garden produce is the most important part of what we do at THE PIG. We like to highlight elegant simplicity in our dishes,” says Tom.
“Living and working on this amazing coastline and being so close to the area’s everchanging produce is what really motivates me to create fantastic dishes with my team.”
A selection of moreish ‘Piggy bits’, such as chorizo and gouda fritters, crispy kale, and smoked pollock roe dip, are enticingly presented on vintage crockery scattered with petals, whilst main courses include juicy salt aged sirloin steak with zesty garden herb salsa, and perfectly charred monkish tail with a rainbow chard, fennel and lobster sauce – rich and salty but perfectly balanced with herby freshness. For dessert, we were treated to a show-stopping Baked Alaska to share – a glorious, decadent muddle of marshmallow-y meringue, thick vanilla ice cream, and a boozy blackberry purée.
After a morning walk along the beach followed by THE PIG’s famously abundant breakfast, Dream Escape recommends a trip to Rock. Popular with high profile holidaymakers, this idyllic village sits on the shores of the Camel Estuary opposite Padstow and the two are connected by a speedy ferry service. Paul Ainsworth is another of the area’s heavyweight chefs; he has several restaurants on both sides of the estuary and has recently acquired Rock’s only hotel - The St Enodoc.
“There’s a real sense of community in North Cornwall, and a slower pace that allows creativity to thrive. You’re surrounded by rugged coastline, ancient farmland, and a rhythm to life that’s tied to the seasons,” he explains.
“It’s also somewhere that people genuinely care about good food, whether it’s fish and chips on the beach, a crab sandwich or a tencourse tasting menu. That appreciation creates a great energy, and it draws in chefs who want to be part of it.”
Also in Rock, Ainsworth owns The Mariners – a stylish gastropub with beautiful estuary views. The menu features a creative selection of celebrated British classics elevated by Ainsworth’s trademark imaginative twist. Popular dishes include a luxurious king prawn cocktail served in a large octopus-shaped dish; a dry-aged bone-in côte de boeuf with triple-cooked chips for two, and the famously comforting Cornish shepherd’s pie, which contains one special local ingredient…
“I love cooking with native seaweed – it adds this amazing savoury depth to our shepherd’s pie, where it’s slow-cooked into the lamb shoulder ragù. It’s a simple touch, but it really ties the dish to the coast and what’s growing around us,” Paul explains.
“There’s a deep connection to the land and sea here, and a pride that shines through in the quality of the ingredients. We truly have a world-class larder right on our doorstep.”
Across the estuary in Padstow, Dream Escape also arranges experiences at Ainsworth’s chic and intimate cocktail bar, which sits in a handsome Georgian townhouse on the floor above his Michelinstarred restaurant, No6. With windows overlooking Padstow’s characterful streets, talented bar manager, Tyler, mixes up an array of exceptional cocktails, including the ‘Who Dares Wins’ - a refreshing and theatrically frothy mixture of gin, buttermilk, yuzu, soda water and more. It’s the perfect place for a pre-dinner drink but also pairs exceptionally well with the bar’s selection of sophisticated ‘pintxos’ (small, tapas-style plates), which include buttery slices of acorn-fed Jamon Iberico; caviar with seaweed seasoned crisps; and a heavenly cheese scone served with rich, gorse-yellow butter, made in-house. The warm and caramelly brown butter financiers with Pedro Ximenez sherry jelly, whimsically presented on a merry-go-round, are also unforgettably good.
“Our pintxos are inspired by my wife Emma and I’s travels to San Sebastián and Barcelona, and we serve them alongside nods to Cornwall.” says Paul.
“CiCi’s is all about flavour, fun, and a warm welcome.”
Nearby, further Dream Escape favourites include Prawn on the Lawn – a tiny restaurant that serves fresh seafood and flavour-packed small plates, and Prideaux Walled Garden – a beautiful garden and stylish café hidden away in the heart of town that serves light lunches and exceptionally delicious cakes. Another must is Sabzi —a modern Middle Eastern deli founded by chef Kate Attlee. Kate has several stylish emerald green delis across the county, in which she serves up a vibrant array of herb-laced breakfasts, crunchy salads and hearty dahls that change every day.
“Sabzi is built on my love of the flavours of my Iranian heritage, while also seeking to serve responsibly sourced and environmentally sustainable dishes. Cornish produce is at the heart of every menu we plan, and we’re obsessively committed to seasonality,” Kate explains.
“We use a lot of local cabbage, carrots and cauliflower - I adore them for their versatility and ability to handle strong, punchy flavours. Whether it’s roasted with our own spice blend and dressed in our fresh herb chutney that uses up herb stalks and offcuts, or shredded and raw in our delicately spiced lemon oil, there are so many uses for such humble ingredients.”
The bustling harbour town of Padstow is also affectionately known as ‘Padstein’ — a nod to the celebrity chef Rick Stein who famously founded his foodie empire here half a century ago. Today, the Stein family own several restaurants, shops, luxurious accommodation and even a cookery school in the area, but the story first began back in 1974 when Rick and his first wife, Jill, opened a night club in the heart of town. Their initial venture was short-lived, thanks in part to the challenge of managing a boisterous crowd of burly fishermen. Undeterred, in 1975 they reinvented the space as a seafood bistro and the rest, as they say, is history.
Today, it’s known simply as The Seafood Restaurant. Defined by understated elegance and a deep connection to its coastal setting, it’s widely regarded as one of the UK’s most beloved dining institutions.
Upstairs, there are several luxurious, serene suites which Dream Escape arrange for its guests, some with their own private terraces and sweeping estuary views. Downstairs, the iconic restaurant hums with laughter, the clink of glasses, and the rhythmic shake of cocktails, whilst smiling staff glide through the thoughtfully designed space, with trays piled high with fruits de mer. The walls are covered in eclectic artwork chosen by Rick and Jill, while a sleek central bar — adorned with colourful coral and glowing lighthouses — anchors the space with glittering charm.
“It’s a special place because of its unique atmosphere, which I think is due in part to the bar. People love to people watch, and this area gives a wonderful focal point to the room,” explains Jill Stein OBE, founder and co-owner of The Seafood Restaurant, and interior designer accross the Rick Stein group.
“Customers can eat at the bar and there’s always someone shaking cocktails.
It’s a working part of the restaurant which is so important to the atmosphere. And the artwork we collected over many years – we spent a lot of time curating pieces we really loved.”
50 years and counting, the Stein family remain proudly hands-on and have nurtured a skilful and attentive team who know how to make feel guests happy and relaxed. And as for the food – the simple yet sophisticated menu delivers an artful mix of classic seafood dishes and a few adventurous global twists. Think fresh, hot shellfish steamed and then doused in chilli, garlic and good olive oil; buttery sashimi exquisitely paired with silky sake; gently spiced Goan lobster with refreshing slices of cucumber; and perfectly executed staples such as Dover sole meunière and turbot with hollandaise. All this plus an excellent wine list and world-class cocktails.
“Our ethos has always been simple food, ingredient led. Or as dad likes to say, “fresh fish, simply cooked”, explains Jack Stein, chef director at Rick Stein, and Rick and Jill’s middle son.
“The sea and the ocean inspire me hugely, and I’m in awe of the local fisherman and all our suppliers. I just try to tell their story on a plate.”
Inspiration...
OFF SEASON CHEF SECRETS
“It is just stunning here in the winter. The seas can get very rough, reminding us of the power it has, and the wind is bracing, but it’s still a place where you can unwind and relax whilst enjoying fantastic food. There’s nothing like a walk on the beach to blow the cobwebs away, followed by a delicious meal somewhere warm and cosy with a huge log fire to ward off the chill.”- Nathan Outlaw
“I really love the storm season here (Sept-Nov) – the surf is really good, and the weather is still quite warm. I also love walking, playing golf and surfing - anything outdoors really! A great local walk is the loop from The Gurnard’s Head in Zennor, it’s a lovely pub in the winter when the storms are in.” - Jack Stein
“The beaches are just stunning in the winter light, and the colour palette shifts to become moody and atmospheric – with so many mild, dry days, it’s a wonderful time to visit.” - Kate Attlee
“North Cornwall has a slightly slower rhythm off season, which is part of its charm, but you’ll still find plenty going on. The food scene stays strong all year round, and there’s a real warmth to the hospitality - it’s a great time to properly settle in and enjoy the character of the place. One of my wife Emma and I’s favourite things to do is to go for a walk with our two girls, CiCi and Audrey, on the beach and around the dunes at Daymer Bay with our cavapoo, Freddie. The scenery is just breathtaking.” - Paul Ainsworth
“Off-season it’s quiet and peaceful, perfect for some coastal walks, stormy views and escaping the summer crowds! On my days off I love taking the ferry from Padstow and heading to Four Boys in Rock, it’s a fantastic restaurant that showcases Cornish produce and fresh pasta,” - Tom Holloway
Words: Sophie Farrah
