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NEED A IIFT? CAIL US!

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SPA-N-DECK

Tcr 605 Exterior Wood Finish

. Technological breakthrough. o Environmentally safe. Protects exterior wood up to 5 years. Water based. . Beautiful semi-transparent finish retains the grain's natural integrity. Withstands extreme environments. May be applied directly to New Pressure Treated wood when prepared with Tropitech Wood Surface Prep-no weathering time required. Available in white, nafural, weathered gray, redwood & custom colors.

. For decks, docks, spas, sidings, shingles, fences, etc.

TnOPITEGH

COATINGS & RESEARCH, INC.

3706 Mercantile Ave. Naples, Florida 34104 (9411 435-1991 o (800) 533-832s

MANUS 9I^,*NON.SLIP SAFETY PAINT

Prevent slip & falls 100% acrylic latex formula offers a flexible, quick drying paint that withstands heavy tratlic, will not crack or powder, cleans up with ease, and eliminates fire hazards and toxic odors. ldeal lor wood, concrete, aluminum, fiberglass or pfimed steel surfaces.

MANUS COATINGS & RESEARCH CO.

3706 Mercantile Ave. Naples, FL 34101 (800)32&2687 rf.tHE quintessential uestern uood. I redwood. is easv to sell for deckr and fences, especially by a sales staff familiar with its properties and strengths. according to the California Redwood Association.

REon'oou Dacxs

\\-hcther as a rugged outdoor tl()or. quick-draining container gardcn platfbrm. side rard rralkria1 bridge orer land gaps and dips. sraceful hillsidc' terrace or cantile\ered balconr. r.'d-

-'+ -ilFl.,

BEDWOOD rs an dea soecies to sell for decks {u0oer ohoto, and lences cwer e11 uclod dr'ck: :et the \tage for ouldoor cnjor nrent. stre\\ to custonrcr\ that red$ood deck posts nru\t be heartsood Srade lunrber. Stlndard -lr-1. -1r6 or 6r6 sizes should bc attached an inch abore ground l() concrete tbotings lhut \lopc trutr't ard. draining \\ alcr r\\ ur l'rrrnr rrood. Never corer footing: *ith :oil. grar el or other ground co\ L'r\. Rc'duood deck \upport\ nrust be conr- pletely independent of a pool, tub or spa installation.

Trpical rcdriood deck con.tructitrn use\ \tnglr' span: t'rf non-sIre::-gradc'd Construction Heart and Con:tructicln Corr.rr.rron red*ood gradc's. uith a lire load oi -10 lbs. per \q. ft.. and dead loads of l0lbs. per sq. ft.

Plantcrr and other t'urnishings nrar crc-ate ;lhnorrl]al loads that require .htrrler \nJn\ r)r llrr'er beunts anti r -., joists. Honreouner. should consult local building codes resarding regulations tbr all load-bcaring \upports.

Beams, stringers, joists, blocking and framing should also be all-heart redwood. For double-beam construction, 2x6s, 2x8s or 2x10s can be anchored in pairs to the sides of posts; for single-beam construction, 4x4s, 4x6s or 4x8s can be toe-nailed on top of posts-never in ground contact. Deck joists, usually toe-nailed on top of stringers or beams, should be supported laterally with blocking at regular intervals.

Redwood decking may use 2-inch heartwood or sapwood-containing lumber, parallel, diagonal or perpendicular to building walls, or in parquet, diamond or sunburst patterns. Decking should span no more than 24 in. for a live load of 40 lbs. per sq. ft. (and a 10-lb. dead load), with deflection limited to L/l80.

All large knots and butt-joined board ends should be centered over joists. Flatgrain lumber should be installed "bark-side" up to minimize raised grain and splinters. Pre-drill nail holes at board ends and edges, or the tips of nails blunted slightly to avoid splitting lumber.

A staggered nailing pattern provides the best performance; two nails at each board end, one nail at each joist on alternating sides of boards.

Story at a Glance

Sales ammunition for redwood decking and tencing ... tips on installation, finishing.

Rnnwooo Fpxcns

Redwood garden grades provide straight, long-standing fences with high stability and weatherability. Plain or fancy, high or low, solid or see-through, fences can be designed to screen, support, partition, protect, conceal, reveal, shelter or shade any space.

Posts of 4x4 or 4x6 Construction

Heart grade redwood should be set 2 ft. deep for a 5-ft. fence,2-ll2 ft. for a 6-ft. fence, and 3-ll2 ft. for an 8-ft. fence. Posts set in*concrete should rest directly on 6 in. of gravel without the concrete sealing off the bottom of the post and preventing drainage.

Fence rails of heartwood grade redwood can be attached to posts with lap, butt, grooved or mortised joints.

Fenceboards can be heartwood or sapwood-contain-

:, ing redwood in varied dimensions and spacing, in vertical, diagonal or horizontal patterns. Standard designs, while often limited by local building codes, : include picket, split : rail, post and rail, post and board with or without lapped joints, board and: board. and louvered :: patterns.

Merchantable or Construction Common grade redwood 1x2s also can be used for diamond, parallel ,: slat or other open laf tice patterns. Fence panels can fit togeth- ,: er for herringbone, parquet or other mosaic effects, or alternate with contrasting fence materials. A "good neighbor" fence serving two property owners should have a finished design on both sides, while an "attractive nuisance" fence required by law around swimming pools and other amenities can be a landscape focus or subtle backdrop.

Among the add-ons and options: attached planters, benches, overhead trellising, recessed shadow boxes, airy windows, and pivoting or sliding gates.

Fntrslns & Flsrnxpns

Redwood's acceptance of many different finishes provides design versatility and significant maintenance and refinishing savings over other woods. Unfinished surfaces may darken, then bleach naturally to driftwood gray, and coatings described here can gracefully modify or speed these effects.

Wood surfaces must be clean and dry before applying any coating. New structures built with unseasoned redwood should air-dry unfinished for one month. Brush or roller applications are preferred. Spray application should be back-brushed immediately for best penetration. Do not use wire bristle brushes or scouring pads.

Water repellent with mildewcide is recommended for all redwood outdoors, except planters, benches and garden furniture, to minimize the effects of dirt, water and weathering, deter checking and mildew, and eliminate redwood's natural darkenine.

For best results. one coat should be applied before construction to board ends, edges (including cut edges), and wood that will be in contact with wood, then a second coat to the entire structure after construction.

Bleaching oils containing mildewcide produce permanent driftwood gray, eliminating darkening. Some are available with a gray pigment to produce an immediate uniform finish.

Pigmented stains in "natural" redwood shades, or greens, tans, brown or black, range from lighrbodied penetrating stains that highlight grains, to heavy-bodied coatings that obscure the grain but show off textures.

For decks, recommend sealer-type or nonchalking stains, or water repellent containing mildewcide mixed with a semitransparent stain.

Latex paints offer maximum color variation for vertical surfaces. They should be applied over an oil- or alkyd resin-base primer. Avoid penetrating oils, including boiled linseed oil, tung oil, synthetic oils, varnishes and other clear film finishes that may yellow, crack and fail within ayear.

Noncorrosive nails-only stainless steel, aluminum, or top quality hotdipped galvanized-should be used on redwood exterior applications. Mechanical or electroplated, poor quality hot-dipped or other nails may cause stain streaks with heartwood extractives. If nails are countersunk, non-oily wood filler should be used on wood that will receive a natural finish, putty on wood that will be painted.

By Robert Petow Executive Director-Marketing and Communications Westem Wood hoducs Association

f UMBER quality has long been an I-Jand debate: criticism of the wood and debate over the supposed decline issue of criticism products industry in wood products quality.

In truth, the quality of lumber products today is as good ifnot better than in years past. The issue is not quality, but education. The education to select the appropriate grade of lumber for the intended use.

Too often the argument over lumber quality ignores how and why lumber is graded. Lumber grading rules are a set of criteria which define how various lumber characteristics, such as wane or knots, will affect the structural performance of dimension lumber and the aesthetic value of appearance grades. These characteristics are determined, in large part, by the natural variations in each tree from which lumber is cut. Grading is used to enable the mill, wholesaler, retailer and consumer to use each piece of lumber to its greatest advantage.

Soun Blcrcnouxo

ln 1924, the lumber industry agreed to produce lumber to common standards, published under a unique partnership with the U.S. Department of Commerce. This agreement provided the framework for a national lumber grading system and uniform product standard. The current agreement is Voluntary Product Standard, published by the American Lumber Stan-

Story at a Glance

fs f umber quality really declining?

answers lie in how and why wood is graded.

dard Committee under the Department of Commerce. This standard has remained virtually unchanged since 1970. Today's lumber is graded according to the same standards which have been in place for more than 25 years.

These standards are based on how characteristics. such as wane or knots, will affect the structural performance of dimension lumber or the aesthetic values in appearance grades. As knowledge of lumber's structural properties has evolved, so have the grade rules. Today, thanks to industry-sponsored research and the performance record of millions of wood-frame buildings, we know more than ever about lumber's strucrural capabilities.

While some lumber products may look a linle different, for a number of reasons, the products available today are as strong and serviceable as ever. As Tom Hanneman, director of quality standards for the Western Wood Products Association (WWPA), says, "A No. 2 2x4 today is the equal of a No. 2 2x4 25 years ago."

Wnm rns CruNcBo

In recent years, the mix of logs processed by sawmills has changed significantly. The legal gridlock on public forests and a shift away from old growth has led to smaller second and third growth timber as the chief resource for mills. This change in log type affects the variety of lumber grades that can be cut from a log and the extent to which non-limiting characteristics appear within a grade.

Large diameter logs from older trees tend to yield more clear lumber compared to the smaller sizes. At the same time, the big logs also have sections with larger knots or other undesirable characteristics, which reduce the grade. While more clear lumber is found in old growth timber. there is also a higher volume of lower grade material.

Second growth timber may contain more knots. It yields much less clear, wane-free lumber and contains a higher percentage of middle grade material. This has fostered a perception that the material is of a lower quality. This is not true; the knots are smaller and tighter, and the slope of grain is often better for some categories of structural lumber.

The effects of this trend toward more second growth timber can be seen in grade recovery surveys compiled by WWPA. Structural lumber, dimension, studs and timbers have traditionally accounted for three-fourths of the West's lumber production. Structural grades are the most commonly cited as having quality problems. In 1972, approximately TOVo of dimension lumber (2" products commonly used in production) was graded as Standard & Better or No. 2 & Better.

Selecting dimension lumber

Western wood dimension lumber is versatile, easy to handle, structurally sound and readily available for low-rise framing. The many varieties and properties of softwood dimension lumber may seem to confuse the issue-in fact, the choices are fairly simple if you have some basic information.

Of the western species, there are four major groups used for dimension lumber: Douglas Fir-Larch, Hem-Fir, Spruce-Pine-Fir (South) and Westem Woods. These groups are comprised of species that are grown, harvested, manufactured, grademarked and sold together because performance properties and/or appearance characteristics allow them to be used interchangeably in the markeplace.

The North American softwood lumber industry has three moisture content standards for framing lumber:

GRN (green) is unseasoned lumber with a moisture content in excess ol l9!o:

IIRY !{1} or I(D (kiln dried) has a maximum moisture

ffi;l1t#':#',***

15) or KD rs has a nraximum moisture content of 15% or less.

Only GRN and DRY or KD are readily available in framing lumber grades. The amount of water in wood is expressed as a percent relationship betrveen the weight of the water and the weight of the wood itself. In living ftees it is not uncoilrmon for the moisture con0ent to be 1007o to ^ffi%.Moisture content standards apply to the lumber at the time it is cut to its final size at the mill. Green lumber is sized slightly larger than dry lumber because it shrinks more after manufacturing. In end-use, as green lumber reaches the moisture content of the surrounding environment, it will shrink to approximately the same size as lumber that was manufactured to a drv size.

Whether framing lumber is produced green or dry is a function of economics, epecies, climate, size and preference. Because drying lumber at the mill incrcases the cost, much of the structural material produced by West Coast mills is sold green. This is particularly Eue for Douglas fir lumber. As the product is shipped to market and then put to use, it dries nahrrally, saving tbe consurner flloney. la conuast, mist of the cdhr species of western lumber shipped to other parts of the country are dried before shipment. Because shipping costs are based on welghL it is often more cost efficient to dry lumber at the mill.

The species of wood and the location where it will be used also determines whether it is produced and shipped dry or green. Many builders in the West and Northeast prefer green framing over dry because it is easi€r to nail and less prcne to splitting when nailed.

The thickest framing lumber that is commonly sold dry is 2". Framing lumber 3" and 4" thick is manufactured green. Dry mernbers in these thicker sizes re only available in Bome non-structural appearance grades. Timbers, members 5" thick and thicker, are always sold green, since their size makes drying impractical. Because of thig the moishre csntent is not included on the grademark for timbers.

To ensure the lumber you are buying is graded to acc€1Hed standards, be sure it has been stamped by an approved $rading agency of the American Lumber Standard Corffidttee.

As more second growth timber moved to the mills, that percentage rose each year. By 1995, these grades accounted for more than SOVo of productionproviding the market with the products most in demand. At the same time, the volume of high grade, clear material has declined, as has the amount of lower grades.

GnnnN oR DRY

Grade recovery is not the only area where dimension production has changed. Highervolumes of green lumber are used today. Green lumber has a moisture content above l9%o. Twenty years ago, 29Vo of all western dimension lumber was green. In 1995, approximately 43Vo of dimension lumber produced by western mills was green.

Green lumber requires different handling and installation techniques than dry lumber. With improper handling, green lumber can warp, twist and split. Improper storage can lead to stains, mold and mildew. In some instances, problems such as these have prompted questions about the quality of the lumber due to its appearance. With proper storage and handling of green lumber, these perceived quality problems can be avoided.

Lrws oF NATURE

Two commonly cited lumber quality "problems" are knots and wane. However, these two characteristics cannot be changed in the raw material-unless someone develops a square tree with no branches.

Structural lumber grades consider how the combination of natural characteristics affect the strength of the piece. Since no two trees are (Please turn to next page)

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