Neuschwanstein Castle, ‘The King of Kitsch’

Story & photos by Leonie Milde, contributing writer to MilitaryInGermany.com

I have lived in Germany all my life but it wasn’t until I started writing about it that I realized how little I’ve actually seen of it. Neuschwanstein Castle is one of those things that I’ve practically driven past a hundred times but never got to see up close. So, naturally, I had to change that.

The man behind Neuschwanstein: King Ludwig II

König  Ludwig II could mildly be described as eccentric. He was born in 1845 and died in 1886, not long after being declared mentally incompetent to be king. In between, however, he spent a lot of time (and money) on this castle. The castle’s construction, situated in the same spot as medieval ruins he dreamed of rebuilding, started 16 years prior to his death and has not been resumed since.

Only 14 rooms were finished during his lifetime. Large parts of the castle, including the entire second floor, are therefore empty. He wanted a home that was not open to the public and explicitly said that he did not want any visitors. So, naturally, more than 60 million people from all over the world have visited it since it was first opened as a museum only 6 weeks after his death. I highly recommend getting a little book on him at the museum shop as the tours are brief and there is much to learn.

The castle and the ‘King of Kitsch’

My first thought upon entering the castle was ‘oh my God, this is so extra’. Its first drafts were not drawn by an architect but by a romantic stage painter, Christian Jank, which checks out once you step closer.

If you’re into modern, minimalist architecture, you may need to wear sunglasses to take the edge off because that man was quite literally the king of kitsch. Inspired by medieval art and operas, the rooms are furnished with dark wood, bright colors and anything golden wherever they could find space.

Ludwig’s master bedroom is covered in paintings of Tristan und Isolde, his favorite opera. It looked kind of familiar, except I was 13 and my target of affection were the Jonas Brothers. To each his own, I guess. All jokes aside, though, the chamber is truly deserving of the term majestical.

Ludwig was ahead of the times in many ways. His home included a telephone, with which he could only call his mother as the rest of the country did not have them yet, a winter garden, his own cave, and running water. Legend has it that he dreamed of building a machine that could help him ‘fly’ and see his beloved mountains from above. This was one of the main reasons they declared him insane and not many years later the first airplane drafts were drawn.

My absolutely favorite thing was by far the view from every single window. You have the valley and lake on one side, mountains to another and yes, even waterfalls can be seen from some of the rooms. Honestly, that man sure knew what he was doing when he chose this spot. It’s no surprise that it’s called a fairytale castle. Stop by the The Marienbrücke on your way back to get a fabulous look at the setting and take pictures your friends and family will go crazy over.

Essentials for visiting Neuschwanstein Castle

Tickets: It comes as no surprise that the ticket counters are busy. We got there a few minutes after they opened at 8 a.m. and waited a full 50 minutes. Reservations can be made in advance at https://shop.ticket-center-hohenschwangau.de/. Book early, as only a limited amount of tickets are sold online. These tickets have to be picked up an hour before the tour starts.

Ticket costs: Admission costs €21 per adult. Note: a €2.50 online booking fee also applies.

Photographing or filming inside the castle is NOT allowed. Taking pictures of the exterior is acceptable, though.

Be on time: You buy your ticket for a certain time, either with a tour guide (English tours are offered regularly) or an audio guide. Your ticket will only get you through the gate during a 5-minute window before it’s the next group’s turn so it’s very important that you make it up there in time.

Wear proper footwear: Your feet will thank you.

Accessing Neuschwanstein Castle

The info office is conveniently located at the foot of the hill but Ludwig made absolutely sure that nobody in his right mind could bother him so the castle was built on top of it. There are three ways to get up there. I, for some reason I might never recall, thought a six-hour hike was the perfect warm up on the day before (nope) so we took a horse-drawn carriage to get up there but my legs were far from getting the rest they deserved (and cried for).

The carriage costs €8 per person to go up the hill and €4 per person to go down.

The shuttle bus costs €3.50 per adult for a one-way trip (up or down) and €5 round-trip.

Your feet take you all the way to the entrance gate in about forty minutes- for free. The road is paved but it’s an uphill hike that children can conquer. However, both vehicles include a circa 10-15 minute walk uphill and if you decide against going at 8 a.m. you will have difficulties getting a seat in either.

Getting to Neuschwanstein Castle

Driving is the most convenient way to get there. It takes circa 4 hours from the KMC and Wiesbaden and only 2.5 hours from Stuttgart.

Parking is available. Cars cost €12 for up to 6 hours. Each extra hour costs €1, up to a €16/day maximum.

Trains are available too, check the DB website for times and prices.

Author’s profile: Leonie is a poetry-loving writer with a passion for small towns, road trips, and breakfast food being served at all hours of the day. When she isn’t hopping from one bargain flight to the next, she is making sure you’re hanging with the locals and staying updated on events in your area.